HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 



IN 



IRELAND. 



WITH TRAVELLING MAPS. 



SECOND EDITION REVISED. 



LONDON: ^ 
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 

1866. 

The rigid of Translation is reserved. 



~0A^° 



,M 



LONDON : PRINTED BY W. CLOWE8 AND SO¥S, STAMFORD STREET, 
AND CHARING- CROSS. 



/ 



ff- 



r R E F A C E. 



The Editor lias endeavoured by personal visits and research 

to make tins Handbook as trustworthy as possible. He takes 

opportunity of offering his thanks to his many friends in 

)land for the help, co-operation, and hospitality so kindly 

tbrded him during the progress of the work. He would also 
^commend the proprietors of Hotels, with a few exceptions, 
to offer more inducements to the tourist by an improved 
organisation of their establishments, particularly in the mat- 
ter of cleanliness. 

He will feel obliged for any reliable corrections, altera- 
tions, or additions, and requests that they may be sent to 
him, to the care of the Publisher, 50, Albemarle Street, 
London. 

The Travelling Map of Ireland, in two sheets, attached 

to this work, has been most carefully compiled by Mr. 

Stanford; and it is hoped will be found more complete and 

ful fur its purpose than any other, on the score of clearness 

and correctness. 

An elaborate Plan of Killarncy, on a large scale, will be 
found at the end of the Introduction. 

Although the following extract from a leader in the Times 
did no1 give rise to the Handbook for Ireland, which was nearly 
printed at the time it appeared, it furnishes at least a justifi- 
cation for such a guide-book, in pointing out how great attrac- 

^ a 2 



vi Preface. 

tions for travellers and visitors Ireland possesses, and how 
little they have hitherto been explored. 



Extract from the ' Times,' Feb. 29, 1864. . 

" There is nothing in these isles more beautiful and more picturesque 
than the south and west of Ireland. They who know the fairest portions 
of Europe still find in Ireland that which they have seen nowhere else, 
and which has charms all its own. One might suppose the island just 
risen from the sea, and newly beamed on by the skies— -as if sea and land 
were there first parting, and the spirit of light and order beginning its 
work ; such is the infinite confusion of surge and beach, bay, headland, 
river, lake, grass ; of land and sea, sunshine in showers, and rainbow 
over all. Thackeray doubted, and any one may doubt, whether there is 
in all the earth a grander view than that over Westport to Clew Bay. 
But the whole coast west and south, indeed all round the island, has 
beauties that many a travelled Englishman has not the least conception of. 
The time will come w T hen the annual stream of tourists will lead the 
w T ay, and when wealthy Englishmen, one after another, in rapid succes- 
sion, will seize the fairest spots, and fix here their summer quarters. 
They will not be practically further from London than the many seats 
of our nobility in the North-Midland counties were thirty years ago. 
Eighteen hours will even now take the Londoner to the Atlantic shore, 
and twenty will soon carry him to the furthest promontory of the island. 
There are those who will not welcome such a change upon the spirit of 
that scene ; but if we see in the beauty of Ireland even a surer heritage 
than in hidden mine or fertile soil, why may we not hope that it will 
again cover her land with pleasant homes, and a busy, contented, and 
increasing people, such as we see in many other regions with nothing 
but their beai/y and salubrity to recommend them?" 

May, 1866, 



CONTENTS. 



Introduction 



PAGE 

ix 



ROUTES. 

* * The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are 

described. 



rTB PAGE 

1. Holyhead to Kinj$to>cn and 

Dublin 2 

2. Dublin to Dr> and Dun- 

Ik .. . 10 

3. I 'Ik to Belfast .... 30 

4. Newry to Belfast, through 

R ■* and Do>rnpatrick . 38 

5. it to 1 ... 47 

6. Dundalk to Enniskillen and 

Sligo 54 

7. Enniskillen to Drrry, by Omagh 61 

8. v to Strabane, through 

Ballyshannon and Donegal . 70 

9. Enniskillen to Pcttijoe, Done- 

gal, and Killybegs .... 80 

tne to Letterkenny, 
G '% Dung low, Ardard, 

and Killybegs 85 

11. Londonderry to Gweedore, 

th: :ky ... 93 

rry t>< Belfast, by the 
rthern Counties Railway . 99 
Coleraine to Belfast, by Port- 
rush, the G ,y, 

and / wtle . . . .106 

14. Dublin to M . Athlone, 

■ . and Galway . .119 

15. - ry and Enfield to 

I>. a, through Trim and 

an 129 

Drogheda to Xa>-an, Kelts, and 

an, by Rail . . . .142 
Mullingar to Portadown, 
through and Arm igh 147 
ir to Sligo, through 
'. ' - - 
. an I Boyle 152 



oo 



23. 



2b. 



26. 



ROUTE PAGE 

19. Athlone to Resummon, Castle- 

reagh, Ballina, and Belmullet 1 59 

20. Galway to Clifden, through 

Oughterarde and Ballynahmch 1 64 

21. Galway to Ballinrobc and West- 
port 180 

Clifden to Leenanc, }Ycstport, 

and Sliov) . 187 

Dublin to Wexford, through 
Wicklow, Arklov:, and Ennis- 

corthy 

24. Dublin to Eathdrum and Aik- 
low. — To u r t h ro u gh ~\ ] r ich lo w 
Dublin to Cork, by Gt. South- 
ern and Western Railway 
Dublin to Carlow, Kilkenny, 
and Water ford, by Rail . . 

27. Kilkenny to Athenrv, through 

Parsonstown and Loughrea . 

28. Wexford to Cork, through 

Waterford, Dungarvan, and 
Toughal 254 

29. Tonghal to Cahir, through 

Lismore and Fermoy . . .266 

30. Limerick to Waterford . . .271 

3 1 . 3lal low to Killarney and Tralee. 

The Lake of Killarney . 277 
. Limerick to Tralee .... 295 

33. Limerick to Boyle, through 

Entds and Tuam .... 306 

34. The Shannon, from Athlone to 

Limerick 317 

35. Killarney to Valentin and 

Kenmare 324 

36. Cork to Kenmare, via Band 

Bantry, and Qlengarriff . . •' 

37. Cork to Bantry, via Macroom . 3 



199 
207 
219 
239 
251 



349 



INTRODUCTION. 



PAGE 

I. Physical Geography ix 

IT. Geology xxiv 

II L Points of Interest for the Geologist and Botanist xxxiii 

IV. Industrial Resources xxxiv 

V. Travelling View xl 

VI. Antiquities .. .. xlvi 

VII. Pi of Interest lviil 

VIII. Skeleton Routes lxiv 

IX. Glossary of Irish Words lxix 



I. Physical Geography. 

Ireland is one of the most singular countries as to physical composition ; 

for whereas the usual arrangement of mountains is more or less in the 

interior, in this case it is the reverse, the ranges for the most part 

constituting a belt or rim all around the seaboard edge, leaving the 

sin of the interior comparatively level. It must not, however, be 

inferred that there are no considerable heights in the interior, but 

merely that the general law is stated which seems to prevail over the 

It will be advisable to take the four great divisions of 

I ster, Leinster, Connaught, and Munster, and describe them seriatim. 

I. Ulster. — In the county of Down is some of the finest scenery in 

Ireland. Its S. boundary is the Bay of Carlingford and the Newry Eiver, 

a considerable portion of the district being occupied with the ranges of the 

Mourm Mountains^ which, commencing to the W. of Newry and Rath- 

friland, speedily attain a great height in the neighbourhood of Uostrcvor, 

le, and Bryansford. Slieve Donard and Slieve Bin&dan are the two 

: st ] fcy eminences, although there are a great number of peaks very 

little inferior in height. The rivers which take their rise here vary accord- 

their positions. Those on the precipitous or seaward side arc rapid 

_nificant, such as the Shimna, which runs through Tollvmore 

. and falls into the sea at Newcastle, and the Causeway Water at 

But the high table-lands on the N. and N.E. give birth 

1 ", which runs past Newry; and the Bann, one of the 

finest and most ec □ lically important rivers in the country. Its upper 



x I. Physical Geography. Intrcd. 

course is past Ililltown and Banbridge to Portadown, where it falls 
into the waters of Lough Neagh, the lower section belonging entirely to 
another district. The next range to the N. is in the neighbourhood of 
Ballynahineh, extending S. from thence towards Castlewellan. Slieve 
Croob is the highest point. From its S.E. flanks rise the Quoil, which 
empties itself, after a short career, near Downpatrick; and a few minor 
streams flowing in or near Dundrum. From the northern face of Slieve 
Croob issues the Lagan, which, after a roundabout course past Dromore, 
Moira, and Lisburn, finally discharges itself into Belfast Lough, at 
Belfast. The district between Down and the Strangford Lough, although 
bleak and elevated, has no hills worth mentioning ; neither has the 
peninsula of Ards, which extends from Portaferry to Donaghadee. 
There is a line of rather striking hills extending from Belfast to Newtown 
Ards, to the N. of the rly. ; and of these, Scrabo and Carngaven are fea- 
tures in the landscape, more from their isolation than intrinsic height. 
The district between Newry, Portadown, and Lisburn consists of un- 
dulating ground, frequently rising to a considerably elevated table- 
land; but from Moira to Lisburn, to the W. of the rly., a chain 
of hills runs N., with little interruption, past Belfast, Carrickfergus, 
and Larne, where they gradually subside. Divis and Cave Hill, over- 
looking Belfast and Duncrue, near Carrickfergus, are the principal 
heights, gradually declining on the W. towards Lough Neagh, but on 
the E. offering very steep elevations seawards. The interruption at 
Lame is, however, only for the breadth of a single valley, for on the N. 
and N.AV. the mountains rise still more suddenly and steeply, forming 
the lofty range of chalk that extends past Glenarm to Cushendall and 
Bailyeastle, and is only bounded W. and S. by the rly. to Ballymena 
and Coleraine, and on the E. by the picturesque terrace-road from 
Glenarm to Bailyeastle. This long range is in its turn subdivided into 
groups by small river valleys, having a general direction towards the 
great basin of Lough Neagh, which drains the whole of this district, the 
streams that flow into the sea being little more than cataracts, from 
the sudden escarpments that the ranges present on this side. 

Between Larne and Glenarm are Agnew's Hill, 1558 ft., and Lough 
Duff, 1262 ft., the group to the N. of Glenarm being separated by the 
Glenarm brook on the N.E., and the Braid river, a tributary of the 
Main, on the S.W. Overlooking Cushendall and Waterfoot are Sliev- 
ane, 1782 ft., and Trostan, 1817 ft., on whose western slopes rises the 
Main, a very considerable stream, that drains the district of Ballymena, 
and joins Lough Neagh at Bandalstown, being separated on the W. 
from the valley of the Bann by a long, though not lofty, range of high 
rand. To the N. of these is the Slieveanorra range, which contributes 
the Glendun stream to the sea at Cushendun, and the Bush, that flows 
in the opposite direction towards Bushmills; and from this point the 
hills begin to diminish in elevation, the principal one being Knocklayd, 
1695 ft., in the neighbourhood of Bailyeastle, although the whole 
country between this and Coleraine consists of high table-land, with 
magnificent escarped cliffs along the coast from Fairhead to the Giants' 



Intrcd. I. Physical Geography. Xi 

way and Portrush, where the groat river-valley of the Bann 
a a marked line of demarcation. In fact, to speak broadly, we may 
look upon the Bann, from its rise near Hilltown, in the Motirne Moun- 
ts, toits termination at Coleraine, as the physical boundary of the N.E. 
if [reland. The next great mountain district may be defined as 
.. between the Bann and the Foyle, and bounded on the S. by the 
om Omagh to Dungannon. A study of the map of J reland will 
.v thai the arrangement ^( this important group is in the shape of 

a square, with rounded corners, connected with lesser ran. 

h within and outside the square. The principal chain commences 

ween the valley oi the Bann and the Roe, at the sea-shore; so close, 

I, that the Londonderry and Coleraine rly. is tunnelled through 

The hills ^( M'Gilligan, Benyevenagh, Keady, and Donald Hill, 

►king Newtown Limavaddy, are all extremely interesting, both 

r marked contour and their geological formation; they follow 

valley of the Roe, attaining at Benbradagh, near Dungiven, tho 

glit of L500 ft. Between Dungiven and Draperstown, near the 

, this lofty chain suddenly changes its direction to run 

. The southern chain is grouped together under the name of the 

M luntains, which run with little interruption as far as the Foyle, 

, and have a tine southern escarpment; while on the N. the 

g inch more gradual, and several important rivers, such as the 

Faughan, have their watershed. The Sperrin Mountains 

derable heights, as Muinard, 2061 ft. ; Sawel, 2240 ft. ; and 

intains, 2 18 ft. The district inside the square, between the 

rly. and the sea, is principally undulating table-land, occasionally rising 

►0 ft. in height; while between Deny and Dungiven, a 

fined range rills up the ^space between the Faughan and the lioe. 

- lerrih Mountains, which may be regarded as a great 

one, we have parallel ridges, varying in height from 1000 it. to 

i arrangement which is repeated, though with decreasing in- 

fl u , i\ 3 r S. as Enniskillen; and it will be noticed that the 

S., the directions of the ranges have a tendency to run 

ii S.W. I i N.K. From Newtown Stewart a range runs parallel with 

-aperstown, being separated there by the valley 
of the Glenelly. Munterlony, 1456 ft., is the principal height. This 
I un the S. by the Owenkillen, from the group which runs 
Ar to Maghrafelt, and terminates near that town in Slieve 
ft. tween Omagh and Enniskillen is a large tract of 
ted ground, gradually culminating in a long irregular 
Enniskillen to Ballygawley and Dungannon. To this again 
3 a much lower chain, running from Lisnaskea to Clogher; and 
the S. of this there is nothing to speak of, as the high grounds sub- 
side into the bogs and levels of Cavan. As might be expected, the 
- of the various rivers follow the parallel ennr.se of these 
3. Running X. from Omagh to the sea we have the great 
-river of the Stride, which, with its confluents the Derg and the 
a first of all the Moume, and ultimately the Foyle; a 

a 3 



xii i. Physical Geography. In trod. 

it is into this basin that the following; cross streams flow, viz. the Glenelly 
and the Owenkillen at Newtown Stewart, and the Camowen at Omagh. 
A fresh basin is provided, however, when we cross the high grounds near 
Enniskillen, for the rivers will be observed to flow in a more southerly 
direction to Lough Erne, which, like Lough Neagh, acts as the receptacle 
for an enormous district. From the eastern end of the ranges just 
mentioned the direction of the rivers is towards the latter lake, which 
receives the Moyola, the Torrent, and the Blackwater, the latter an 
important stream, rising near Clogher, and flowing thence past Augh- 
nacloy, Caledon, Blackwatertown, and Moy. Before we cross the 
Foyle into the mountainous regions of Donegal, we must mention a 
detached group in the county of Armagh, which may be said to be in 
some decree connected with the Mourne Mountains. It commences 
a little to the S.E. of Monaghan, and runs past Newtown Hamilton 
to Newry, the rly. between Dundalk and Newry being carried through 
the group, and leaving the picturesque summit of Slieve Gullion a little 
to the 1. To the rt. of the line it evidently forms a continuation of 
the Carlingford Mountains, although, geographically speaking, they are 
in the division of Leinster. To the N. of Derry lies the district of 
Inuishowen, isolated from its being bounded on either side by Lough 
Foyle and Lough Swilly. The mountains appear to have been grouped 
very much according to the outline of the peninsula, Slieve Snaght, 
2019 ft., forming a lofty central point, round which the subordinate 
heights are grouped, such as Squire's Cairn, 1058 ft., near Moville, on 
the E. ; Raghthmore, 1657 ft,, on the W. ; and Scalp, 1589 ft., to the S. 

It is difficult to divide the next great mountain-ranges of the 
Done.al highlands, which, in fact, comprise the remainder of Ulster, 
extending from Letterkenny and Lough Swilly all the way to the 
Atlantic on the W., and to Ballyshannon, with the river Erne, on 
the S. If a line is drawn between Ardara and Lifford, roughly following 
the course of the Finn,, it will be perceived that the mountains to the 
N. are all singularly arranged in parallel directions from N.E. to S.W. 
Outliers of these ranges are noticed in the neighbourhood of Letterkenny 
rising at Cark and Gregory Hill, between which is the valley of the 
Swilly, to 1205 ft. and 1111 ft. To the N. of the latter are the 
valley of the Lannan, flowing N.E., and the Glendowan ranges, which, 
commencing at Lough Salt Mount, 1546 ft., separate the parallel 
basins of Garton and Derryveagh Loughs. Although the sumniits of 
the Glendowan Mountains in themselves are not lofty, they have a 
fine appearance from the abruptness with which they descend into the 
Glenveagh valley, from the N. of which issues the Owencarrow, which 
falls into the sea at Sheephaven; and from the S. the Gweebarra, a 
fine salmon river, that joins the Atlantic at Doochary Bridge, after 
a magnificent highland course through the Glen Laheen. 

Immediately on the W. side of Glenveagh are the Derryveagh 
Mountains, a magnificent range, which, rising gradually from Glen, 

re their culminating points in Dooish, 2147 ft. ; Slieve Snaght, 
2240 ft.; and Crockaratarive, 1627 ft. These are separated by a broad 



Introd. I. Physical Geography, xiii 

mountain glen only from the still more noble groups of Muckish, 
2197 ft.; Aghla, 1916 ft.; and Arrigal, 2466 ft., at once the highest 

and most beautiful mountain in the N.W. of Ireland. A deep pass, 
entering the vale and lakes of Dunlewy, separates Arrigal from 
Slieve Snaght, forming one of the grandest though least known views 
in all Ireland; and from this point the mountains gradually decline, 
as they border the valley of the Clady to Gweedore. Nevertheless, the 
district to the N. of this is still elevated and hilly, and at the headlands 
of the Bloody Foreland and Horn Head, rises to 1038 ft. and 835 ft. The 
next valley to the S. of the Gweebarra is that of the Finn, which rises 
in the chain of mountains between Glenties and Stranorlar, near the 
source o( the Owenea ; but while the Finn runs to the E., to join the 
Mourne at Lillbrd, the latter river has a shorter course to the W., falling 
into Loughros More Bay at Ardara. Knocklawer, Aghla, Scraigs, and 
Shuragby, are amongst the principal heights in the Finn valley, which 
em into the open country at Stranorlar. To the S. of this valley 

the hills appear to take a rather different direction from E. to W., 
occupying the whole area between Stranorlar, Ardara, and Donegal, 
and extending thence through the promontory of Killybegs and Glen. 

ween Stranorlar and Donegal are the Bamesmore Hills, 1491 ft. 
through which is carried the road known as Barnesmore Gap, and from 
whence the range travels westward without any intermission, under the 
various names of Bluestack, 2219 ft. (at the foot of which is Lough Eask) ; 
Knockroe, 2211 ft.; Binbane, 1193 ft.; Mulmosog, Crownarard, and 
Slieve League, 1972 ft r , with its magnificent mural precipices. The 
streams issuing from these mountains are of necessity short and rapid, and 
include the Eask, flowing in at Donegal ; the Eanymore, Corker, Bally- 
doo, Oily, and Glen Rivers, all having their embouchures in Donegal Bay. 

ween Donegal and Ballvshannon the country is monotonous and 
bleak, though a little to the E. the chain just mentioned continues, 
with gradually lessening heights, to the neighbourhood of Lough Derg 

~k 0/ o ~o 

and Petti^oe, extending eastward from thence to Omagh, and brought 
lip on the S. by the basin of Lough Erne. Between Ballvshannon on 
the X. and the lakes of Melvin and Maenean on the S., the ground rises 
.in to a considerable height; that on the E. terminates in very pic- 
turesque escarpments overlooking Lough Erne, and extending nearly to 
ir Ermiskillen; and on the S. shore of Lough Melvin we enter 
_'. The Division of Connaught. — The district between Bundoran and 
8 - is marked by a very characteristic range of limestone hills, which 
follow pretty much the contour of the coast, towards which it sweeps 
down in a fine line of escarpment. The salient points are Trusk- 
. Benbulben, and King's Mountain. They do not, however, run 
quite as far as Sligo, but when over Drurncliff Bay suddenly turn round 
the E., and continue their course to Manor Hamilton and Lough 
. At Belmore Mount, overlooking Enniskillen, they make an- 
other sudden turn to the X., to join the high grounds of Church Hill, 
that run parallel with the W. shore of Lough Line, and thus form 
alt' r an irregular block of mountains, diversified with many tarns 



xiv I. Physical Geography. In trod. 

and lovely streams, particularly in the neighbourhood of Manor Hamilton 
and Lurgan Boy, where the river Bonet emerges from the picturesque 
valley of Glenade, in its course southwards to Lough Gill. 

To the S. of the road leading from Manor Hamilton to Enniskillen 
the chain of limestone hills suddenly recommences with still more 
1 old and romantic outlines, and occupies the district between Manor 
Hamilton and Loudi Allen under the name of the Lackagb Hills. The 
principal escarpments of the chain are to the S.W. of Enniskillen, over- 
hanging Florence Court and Swanlinbar, where they trend to the S.W., 
to die out gradually in the neighbourhood of Drumshambo and Carrick 
on Shannon. This portion of the range is particularly famous for con- 
taining t\ie source of the mighty Shannon, that issues from a singular 
Gwern or "pot" in Legmonshena. There are also many other features 
characteristic of the carboniferous formation. The drainage of the 
largest portion of this block of mountain is provided for by Lough 
Allen, which may be said to be more or less surrounded by it, particu- 
larly on the N. and E. sides ; the ranges on the W., although practically 
part of the same system, being known as the Bralieve Mountains, which 
rise to the height of nearly 1400 feet (Cashel and Carrow). Notwith- 
standing the large area of the basin of Lough Allen, few rivers of any 
size enter it, save the Shannon and the Arigna, a fact which may be 
accounted for by the proximity of the mountains to the lake. Returning 
northwards to Sligo, we find it occupying an advantageous position at 
the mouth of the basin of Lough Gill, which on the N. side is bounded 
by the outliers of the limestone ranges before mentioned ; and on the S. 
by the abrupt eminences of Slieve Slish and Slieve Daene. A most 
prominent feature in Sligo landscape is the truncated coneofKnock- 
narea, which occupies an isolated position- overlooking Ballysadare Bay. 
The next great batch of Connaught Mountains may be defined by a 
diagonal line drawn from Ballysadare to Foxford r Castlebar, and West- 
port, and includes all the barren and wild district of Erris, Tyrawley, 
and Burrishoole. The ranges of the Ox Mountains and Slieve Gamph 
extend from Ballysadare to the neighbourhood of Foxford, where they 
are rather suddenly brought up by Loughs Conn and Cullin. Their 
direction is from N.E. to S.W., and they attain a height of 1778 ft. at 
Knockalongy overlooking Screen, although their average is not more 
than 1200 ft. As they slope steeply towards the coast on the N., 
the rivers given off on that side are insignificant, the Easky, which 
runs past Dromore, being the only one worth mention ; but from the 
S.E. flanks issue the* 4 Owenmore, which has a northern course past 
Collooney and Ballysadare ; and the Moy, which for several miles flows 
in the opposite direction, but turns sharp round to the N. near Foxford, 
and becomes a tidal river at Ballina. From Killala Bay to Belmullet 
extends a long ;;c r ie& of high bleak tableland (having an average of 
7<>0 ft.) through the centre of the district running N. and S., forming a 
s^rt of lofty ridge or backbone, which commences at Maumakeogh 
with an elevation of 1243 ft., and rapidly increases as it merges into the 
Nephin Beg range, a magnificent scries of mountains overlooking Black- 



IntroJ. I. Physical Geography. xv 

Bay, with the island of Achill on the W., and Clew Bay with the 
opposite codc of Croagh Patrick on the S. The principal heights arc 
Slieve Car, 2369 ft.; Nephin Beg, ~0(}o ft.; and Cushcamcarragh, 
2343 ft.; which give several small rivers flowing through the wild 
district of Ballycroy into Blacksod Bay, This range is continued 

stward into the peninsula of Curraun (which indeed it altogether 
fills with the hill of Knockletteragh), and into the island of Achill, 
that contains some o( the finest monntain-cliff scenery in the W. of 

and : sneh as the rugged mass of Slievelnore, the precipices of Crog- 
han, and the cliffs o( Minnaun. Between Nephin Beg and Loughs 

in and Culiin, there is the still more lofty mountain of Nephin, 
ft., the rounded summit of which is visible for an enormous extent 

country : and running S.W, from it towards Newport, are the hills 

Berreen-oorragh, and Buckoogh, not very much inferior in height, 
\ ^withstanding the large scale of these mountains, very few streams, 
and these but of small size, issue from them ; some to drain into Lough 
( 11 : and some, as the Newport river, into Clew Bay, To the S. of 

phin is the parallel range of the Oroaghmoyle Mountains, 121)0 ft., 
Intervening between it and Castlebar. 

The n< al groupmay be said to extend from Clew Bay to Gal way 

iri includes the principal portion of what is commonly known as 
1 onemara ; the boundary on the E. side being the river Ayle, that 
runs from Castlebar into Lough Mask, and thence becomes the sub- 
terranean Cong River, which connects the latter with Lough Corrib. 

For simplifying the arrangement, this group may be subdivided 
into the northern group, occupying the peninsula of Murrisk, and 

aided on the S. by the inlet of the Killaries and the Errive River. 
The whole of the peninsula is occupied by a mass of mountain which 
does not appear to have any definite name. The N. is principally 
marked by the wonderful cone of Croagh Patrick, 2510 ft., which flings 
out its shoulders E. and W. ; while in the S., rising directly up from 
the Killaries, are the towering heights of Muilrea, 2G88 ft., Benbury, 

L0 ft., and Bengorm, 2303 ft.; from whence a lofty line of hills 

follows the N. side of the valley of the Errive almost all the way to 

Westport. Between the Errive and Lough Mask is the range of the 

try Mountains, somewhat monotonous in their outline, which, as 

ach their southern termination, become amalgamated with 

it mountain system of the Joyce country, that occupies the 

rthern portion of the peninsula, bounded respectively by the Killaries 
an Lway Bay. 

Between the Kill iries and the foot of Lough Mask, are Farrennamore, 

39ft., and Bengoriff, 2039ft.; and further S., partly separating 

1. (Ugh M >k from Lough Corrib, are the ranges of Bcnlevy and Lugna- 

i, at the foot of which flows the Beainabrack, separating them 

m the Mamturk Mountains, and entering the arm of Lough Corrib 

at Maume. This latter range, of which Shanfolagh, 2045 ft., is the 

point, ocenpies the ana between the valley of the Beainabrack 

..e high road from Oughterarde and Clifden. and forms one of the 



xvi i. Physical Geography. In trod. 

most beautiful scries of panoramas in that route, especially at the 
junction of the cross valley of the Derryclare and Inagh Lakes. These 
last separate the Mamturk Mountains from the Twelve Pins, which may 
be considered as the centre of the mountain district of Connemara. Bun- 
nabeola, of which Benbaun, 2395 ft., is the loftiest summit, is a series of 
1- singular peaks rising close to one another, and throwing out a 
number of secondary ranges that extend for a considerable distance ; 
yet, taking the Twelve Pins as a whole, we find a distinct line of demar- 
cation that contributes to give an air of independence and centraliza- 
tion to this magnificent group. On the N. it is bounded by the Gap 
and Lake of Kylemore ; on the S. by the Lake of Bally nahinch ; and on 
the E. by Loughs Inagh and Derryclare, at the foot of which js the 
singular little hill of Lissoughter, forming as it were the key to this 
cross-valley. 

The remainder of the peninsula of which Clifden is the chief town 
consists of high rocky ground,- relieved by some considerable hills on the 
seaward side, viz. : Kinvyle, between Ballinakill and the Killaries ; Urris- 
beg, overlooking Roundstone on the S., with Cashel and Lettershanna, 
between Bally nahinch and the sea. The district between the high road 
to Oughterard and Galway and the sea, consisting of Connemara Proper 
and Iar Connaught, is nothing but a succession of lofty table-lands as 
dreary and as little known as any portion of Ireland. E. Connaught 
is comparatively free from mountain ranges, though it is by no means 
level like the plains of Westmeath ; but consists of rocky and poor 
ground, averaging from 100 ft. to 500 ft. in height. The range called 
Kesh Corrin, 1183 ft., and Carrowkeel, extends along the W. bank of 
Lough Arrow, and is there united with the Curlew Hills, over which 
the road to Boyle is carried ; it is, however, merely a continuation 
westward of the Fermanagh Mountains and the Bralieve Hills near 
Lough Allen. A range of rather high ground is also found extenenng 
from Claremorris to Castlereagh and Elphin ; and a second runs from 
Tuam eastward, crossing the Suck to Pioscommon, between which place 
and Longford it rises at Slieve Baun to nearly 1000 ft. The only other 
remaining mountains worth mention in Connaught are to the S. of 
Loughrea, where a considerable block, called the Slieve Baughta, 
occupies the interval between Gort and the western shores of Lough 
Derg, extending from Portumna and Woodford to Scariff, at which point 
it crosses the boundary, and enters the co. Clare. 

3. Munster. — South of Galway rise the curious bare limestone hills 
of the Bun*en country, terminating in Black Head, and reaching a height 
of about 1000 ft. These slope southwards to Liscannor and Miltown 
Malbay, between which place and Ennis is the domical mountain of Slieve 
Callane, 1282 ft. To the E. of these hills is a low tract with lakes 
running from Ennis to Gort; and eastward of that again rise the Slieve 
Boughta Hills, the greater portion of which have been mentioned as 
running into Galway alongside Lough Derg. The interval between 
these two groups is watered by the Fergus, which, rising near Kilfenora, 
flows past Castle Clare into the Shannon by a wide estuary. 



Introd. i. Physical Geography. xvii 

Between Broadford and Killaloe rises the range of the Slieve Bernagh, 
Beparated from the Arra Mountains by the Long, narrow channel of the 
Bouthern portion of Lough Derg and the Shannon. Craig Mountain, 
L729 ft. above Killaloe, is, next to Glennagalliagb, 1746, the highest 
point of the Slieve Bernagh, which is continued to the S.W. nearly to 
Six Mile Bridge, and separated by a narrow valley from theCratloe Hills 
that rise immediately X. of Limerick. Divided from the Arra Hills by 
the valley o( the Kilmastullagh Rivei are the Silvermine Mountains, 
winch are themselves cut off by another valley called Glen ("olios from 
Mount Keeper(2278 ft.), visible for an enormous extent of country. The 
Slieve Phelim Mountains, a portion of the same group, are conspicuous 
the traveller | along Limerick and Waterford Rly., and 

■p company with him the whole distance to Limerick Junction, stretch- 
; away to the X., and occupying a very large area between Xenngh, 
Tipperarv. and CasheL The greater number of the rivers that rise 
amidst these heights are insignificant, and fall, after more or less mean- 
dering, into the Shannon; though the eastern slopes, which overlook 
- and Holycr ss, Bend down tributaries to the Snir, which rises 
X. of th< [Devil's Bit Mountain, and runs through Tipperarv, and the 
bor I oik, Waterford, and Kilkenny, into the harbour of Water- 

to. 

The only hills that remain to be mentioned in the comity Clare con- 
sist of a series of irregular groups of no great height that rim parallel with 
the Shannon towards Kilrush and Kilkee, 

The next district may be bounded by the Shannon on the 1ST., the 
dee and Killarney lily, on the S., and the Great Southern and 
Western on the B. Although strictly a mountainous district, there are 
no lofty ranges in it ; it rather consists of extensive tablelands, ex- 
tremely wild and desolate, and not of a character that affords much 
attraction to the tourist. These tablelands appear to culminate in the 
tre, and are known by the different names of the Stack, Clanruddery, 
u< irk, and Use Mountains, which, with their extensive con- 
nections, till up the whole area between Tarbert and Newcastle on the 
X., Listowel on the W., Charleville on the K., Tralee and Kanturk on 
A- might be expected from the large amount of country covered 
5, a number of rivers take their rise : the Deel and the 
M igue flowing into the Shannon; the Geale and the Feale direct into 
the Atlantic ; the Maine, which forms the estuary of Castlemaine Har- 
bour ; the Blackwater, with its tributaries the Owentangiin, the Owen- 
dale and the Allow, flowing eastward to Mallow and Youghal. 

insula of Dingle, lying to the W. of Tralee, is nothing but a 
ridge of lofty mountains, which descend so abruptly to the sea as 
to leave very little level ground. Nearest to Tralee are the Slicvmish 
Mountains, of which Cahirconree and Bautregarm are the chief points; 
and ( upon them, separated only by a mountain valley, are the 

rai i Benoskee and Connor Hill, which further W. rise into the 

tficent mountain-peaks of Brandos (3127 ft.), one of the giants of 
to }t. The extreme point of the peninsula is marked by Mount 



xviii I, Physical Geography. In trod. 

Eagle, though it is probable that the high ground once extended con- 
siderably farther out, as evidenced by the cliffs of the Blasket Islands. 

It is difficult to divide the next district, which includes the loftiest 
mountains in Ireland and the exquisite beauties of Killarney — the 
cynosure of all Irish tourists. The minuter features of the Killarney 
Hills have been described in Etc. 31, so that it will be unnecessary to 
recapitulate any but the broad distinctive characteristics. To the S. of the 
rly. between Mallow and Millstreet are the Bochra Mountains, which 
give off streams N. and S. to the Blackwater and the Lee respectively. 
Having passed Millstreet, we have the very marked ranges of Cahir- 
barna (2239 ft.), and the Paps (2268 ft.), separated from Croghane by 
the valley of the Flesk. Then comes Mangarton, with its magni- 
licent subordinate cliff scenery of Glen-na-Coppul and Lough Guitane, 
together with Tore Mtn., at the base of which reposes Killarney, the 
most exquisite of British lakes. Divided only by the Long Reach and 
the basin of the Upper Lake, are the Toomies, Glena, the Purple Moun- 
tain, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, and Carrantuohill, the most lofty point in all 
Ireland, offering in their river-gullies and -precipices some of the finest 
scenery in the whole island. As the coast is neared towards Cahirciveen 
the ranges gradually lessen in height and grandeur, although scenery 
very little inferior to that of the Reeks is found in the mountains that 
overhang Lough Carra. These ranges with their . intervening valleys 
occupy the whole promontory between the bays of Dingle and Kenmare, 
S. of which latter is another mountainous promontory which stretches 
from the hills that surround Glen Flesk to Bearhaven, 

Once the tourist in his travel from Millstreet has crossed the water- 
shed of the Blackwater, he descends into the valley of the Flesk, w T hich 
rises in the Derrynasaggart Mountains, and cuts itself a way between the 
ranges of Oroghan and the Paps, to fall into the lake near the town of 
Killarney. With the exception of the Laune, the main outlet of the 
lake into Castlemaine Harbour, the rivers both on the N. and S. of 
the peninsula are short and rapid, such as the Anagarry, the Carra, and 
the Ferta or Valentia rivers on the N., with the Inny, Coomeragh, 
Blackwater, and the Rough ty on the S. The latter stream rises 
within a short distance of the Flesk on the western slopes of the Derry- 
nasaggart Mountains, while from the S. and E. of the same group rise 
the Lee and the Sullane, flowing in. an entirely opposite direction. 

Between Kenmare and Bantry the traveller crosses the other range 
of mountains forming the backbone of the promontories of Bantry 
and Bear. They extend in a S.W. direction to the very end of the 
coast, under the names of the Caha and the Slieve Miskish Mountains, 
and attain a considerable height, rising at Hungry Hill to 2251 ft. The 
same range is continued to the N.E. of Glengarriff, and gives birth to 
the Ouvane and the Gomboola — affording in its rocky fastnesses the 

guificent scenery of the Pass of Keimaneigh and the cliffs of Gougane 
Barra. But from this point eastward the picturesque element is on the 
decline, and the lofty escarpments give place to the long shoulders of 
the Sheehy and Clara Hills that bound the valley of the Lee on the 



In trod. I. Physical Geography. xix 

B., and that of the Bandon on the N. To the S. of Bantry is the 
district of West Carberry, which is hilly, though not very lofty, the 
principal ranges extending in narrow ridges through the promontory 
of Dunmanus, where in the neighbourhood of Skull they are 1339 ft. in 
:ht (Mount Gabriel). The same high ground is continued eastward 
the N. of Skibbereeu and Clonakilty, until it dies out in the neigh- 
bourhood of the Kinsale river. 

Bast Minister may he roughly described as that portion of the 

to the E. of the Great Southern and Western Bly«, and, 

although contain! - me very fine chains of mountains, it has not that 

vmatically hilly character which we have observed to prevail in 

the V 

Immediately to the S. of Tipperary is the Galty range, extending 

m Charleville to Cahir. On the northern side the ridge of Slieve- 

namu thrown out like an outwork, and is separated by the Glen of 

Aherlow from the main group, which rises to the height of 3000 it. in 

rrand sweeps. The finest scenery is on the southern face 

_ MitchelstowD and the valley of the Funcheon, and contain* 

brated caves (Rte. 29). On the eastern or Cahir side, the 

pproach the town pretty closely, but towards the W. they 

dually diminishing shoulders, which, under the name of the 

ura Hills, are conspicuous in the neighbourhood of Ihittevant 

at. . and give birth to the Awbeg or Mulla (lite. 25). 

To the S. o{ Mitchclstown, and separated from the Galty range by the 

broad elevated valley of the Funcheon, are the Kilworth and Knock- 

mealedowu Hills (2598 ft.), a noble chain that forms the northern boun- 

dai the Blackwaier Valley, and constitutes the principal features of 

Ian". during the sail from Youghal to Cappoquin. To the E. 

of Cappoquin the hills begin to decline, but spcedity rise again to form 

the r >f the Monavullagh and Commeragh Mountains ('J478 ft.), 

andm si striking ranges in the county of Waterford. They 

from the ing mountains in having their escarpments all 

din eastward ins 1 of to the south. 

hat flow t < . the X., such as the Nier, drain into the 
S ir; but I to the S. fall direct into the sea — viz., the Colligan 

Dung .van, the 'lay at Stradbally, and the Mahon at Bonmahon. 
Blaekwater, and, in fact, between Fennoy, Rath cor mack, 
:, there is nothing but a succession of high table-lands, occasion- 
ally r eminences of 1000 ft., and, in the case of the Nagles 
untains, between Fermoy and Ratheormaek, to 1406 ft. This range 
gives rise to the Bride, a tributary to the Blaekwater. 

The only remaining mountain in Minister is Slievnaman, a rounded 
23 1 ft. in height, that rises in singular isolation to the N. of 
onmel and Carrick. 
4. The surface of Leinsfer may be designated as the greal grazii 

land, and is n arly so occupied by mountains as that 

r three divisions. 
1 icing on thi >'.. have (1) the Carjingford ranges, that 

occupy the promontor i Dundalk and Warrenpoint, and may 



xx i. Physical Geography. In trod. 

really be said to belong to the Mourne district, together with the moun- 
tainous ground through which the rly. to Newry passes.. The greater 
part of North Leinster consists of undulating series of hills and plains, 
although towards the boundaries of Ulster the former predominate. 
There is a great deal of wild, uncultivated ground to the N. of 
Virginia and Lough Ramor, rising in the neighbourhood of Bailieborough 
to 1116 ft., the highest point in the district. This arrangement pre- 
vails as far as Lough Sheelin and the rly. from Mullingar to Cavan, 
on the rt. of which isolated groups rise to 1050 ft. Southwards 
towards Mullingar, with the exception of the picturesque hills on 
Lough Dereveragh, the grazing-plains of Westmeath predominate, and, 
interrupted only by an occasional hillock, such as Croghan, Edenderry, 
Hill of Ward, Tara, and others, stretch into the counties of Kildare on 
the S.E., and to the banks of the Shannon on the W. A few miles 
from Kildare are the low ranges of the Dunmurry Hills, conspi- 
cuous simply from their isolation in the plain, and from the 
singular indentation called the Chair of Kildare. This range, how- 
ever, is the commencement of long ridges of high ground, which run 
nearly N. and S., though with a slight westward tendency, for very 
many miles, even to the borders of the counties of TipjDerary and Kil- 
kenny. There are three of these parallel ridges, each of them forming 
the boundaries of a great river- valley. To the W. are the Slieve-Bloom 
Mountains, between Maryborough and Parsonstown — a fine chain, 
rising to upwards of 1700 ft., and showing a very steep face to the S.E. 
Towards Roscrea they decline in height, but rise again to the S. near 
Templemore, this continuation being remarkable for the Devil's Bit 
(1583 ft.), which is visible for a very great distance, and is an unmistakable 
landmark. A few miles to the N. of it, and just 2 miles N. of the 
source of the Suir, rises the Nore, which first flows northward, but soon 
takes a wide sweep, and turns to the S.E., uniting with the Barrow near 
New Ross, and both flowing S. into Waterford harbour. 

The second range, about 1000 ft. high, extends from Monasterevan to 
Castlecomer and Kilkenny, and forms the boundary of the valley of the 
I 'arrow, which rises on the N. slopes of the Slieve-Bloom Hills, and takes 
a similar course and curve, although on a much larger scale than the 
Nore. It is the lower portion of this range that forms the coal-basin 
of Castlecomer, the flat table summits of which are well seen by the 
traveller by rail from Carlow to Bagnalstown. 

The northern course of the Barrow is through comparatively level 
country, stretching eastward for some distance until brought up 
by the outliers -of the Wicklow Mountains in the neighbourhood of 
Baltinglass and Dunlavin ; but in the course of the river S. towards 
Borris and Inistiogue, high grounds close in on each side, those on the E. 
forming one of the loftiest ranges in Leinster. This chain commences 
to the N. of Newtown Barry, and runs almost as far as New Ross in 
an abrupt series of heights, viz., Mount Leinster (2610 ft.), Blackstairs 
(2409 ft.), and White Mount (1259 ft,), immediately opposite which, 
on the W. bank of the Barrow, is Brandon Hill (1694 ft.). 

On the E. side of the Mount Leinster range is the parallel valley of 






In trod. I. Physical Geography, xxi 

the Slanev, a river not much inferior in length and volume to the Nore 
or Barrow, and which rises on the skirts of Lugnaquilla, turning to the 
S. near Baltinglass, and thence flowing tolerably direct past Enniscorthy 
to Wexford. The picturesque district known as the AVieklow^Iountains 
is after all the great feature of Leinster. Commencing so near to 
Dublin that its southern suburbs are almost on the slopes of the hills, 
they occupy a large oval area extending from the metropolis to Arklow 
on the E., and to Blessington and Baltinglass on the W. The Dublin 
and Carlow rly. pretty well defines this western outline, for, although at 
a tolerable distance from the mountains, it rarely loses sight of them. 
The Wicklow Mountains have not the same parallel arrangement of the 
other Irish ranges, and to this tact they probably owe a large amount of 
their wild and romantic features. Beginning near Dublin with Tallaght, 
the Three Rocks, and Tibradden, they gradually rise in height, up to 
the lofty eminences of Kippure, 2478 ft. ; Pjonce, 2384 (t. ; and War 
Hill, which gives birth to the Liffev ; while close to the line of coast are 
the KilliiK-y Hills, with the isolated peaks of the Sugarloaves. To theS. 
of Kippure the country becomes wilder and more elevated, until it reaches 
its culminating point in Lugnaquilla, 3039 ft., one of the loftiest moun- 
tains in Ireland ; and from thence rapidly declines as far as Tinna- 
hely. Although there is much picturesque scenery on the W. slopes of 
the Wicklow Hills, particularly near Blessington, yet the E. district is 
more particularly rich in scenery, and more sought after by tourists ; 
and especially the valleys of the Avoca, the Vartrey, and the Dargle, 
which have a short but exquisitely romantic career before they make 
their exit into the sea. ■ Between Arklow and Wexford the country is 
generally low, with a few isolated hills here and there, and to the 8. of 
Wexfi : ;, with the exception of the Forth Mountains, there is very little 
to relieve the comparative monotony of the views. 

It need scarcely be added that, in this brief summary of the moan- 
tain physiognomy of Ireland, only the most important chains and 
ups have been mentioned, as it would take too much time, and 

aid be also us< I ss, to make mention of all the smaller hills, which, 
as I tl ey are interesting to the tourist, will be found described in 

v 7 

the separate rout The following is a tabular list of the principal 
_ ts: — 

Feet. 
I irrantimhill Kerry 3414 

C h. t „ ' 3200 

Brandon „ 3127 

Lugnaquilla Wicklow SO:*!* 

Qaltymore Tippcrary 3015 

Donaid Down.," 27!x; 

C uiroon] Kerry 2796 

liangerton ,, *_:7.~>i; 

l'> *:• gaum „ 2713 

Muiln a Mayo 2 

N j. bin „ 2646 

B< nbury 2610 

Mt. 1 r W< rford 2610 

Knocki lown Wa1 i-d 2598 



xxii i. Physical Geography. Introd. 

Feet. 

Coomacarra Kerry 2542 

Oioagh Patrick Mayo 2510 

Kippure Wieklow 2473 

Commeragh Waterford 2478 

Arrigal Donegal 2466 

Slieve Bingian Down 2449 

Toomies Kerry 2413 

Black Stairs Wexford 2411 

Benbaun (12 Pins) .. .. Galway 2395 

Douce Wieklow 2384 

Slieve Car Mayo 2369 

War Hill Wieklow 2250 

Slieve Naman Tipperary 2364 

Cushcamearra^ri Mayo 2343 

Bencor (12 Pins) • Galway 2336 

Black Rocks Wieklow 2296 

Berreencorragb Mayo 2295 

Paps.. .. ' Kerry 2268 

Keeper Tipperary 2278 

Hungry Hill Kerry 2251 

Cahirbarna „ 2239 

Sawel Tyrone 2240 

Slieve Snaglit (Dunkerry) . . Donegal 2240 

Bengorm Mayo 2303 

Bluestack Donegal .. .. .. 2219 

Lugaabricka Mayo 2193 

Crogban „ 2192 

Muckisb Donegal 2197 

Cuilcagb Fermanagb .. .. 2188 

Dooisb Donegal .. .. .. 2147 

Truskmore Sligo 2113 

Straw Mt Tyrone 2068 

Muinard „ 2061 

Crogban Kinsbela Wieklow 2060 

Bengoriff Mayo 2039 

Slieve Snagbt Donegal .. .. * .. 2019 

NephinBeg Mayo 2065 

Shanfolagb Galway 2045 

Slieve League # Donegal 1972 

Agbla (Finn Valley) .. .. „ .. .. .. 1953 

Carlingford Loutb.. .. .... 1935 

Slieve Gullion Armagb 1893 

Aghla Donegal 1916 

Trostran Antrim 1817 

Mothers' Mt. (SI. Phelim) .. Tipperary 1783 

Slieve Bloom „ 1783 

Slieveane Antrim 1782 

Slieve Gampb ' Sligo 1778 

Slieve Croob Down 1753- 

GlciKiirnlliagb Clare 1746 

OraigMtn „ .. 1729 

Slieve Gallion Deny 1730 

Benbulben Sligo 1722 



Intrcxl. I. Physical Geography. xxiii 

et. 

Knockletteragh Mayo ]7ir> 

Knocklayd Antrim 1695 

Ox Bfnts Bligo 1685 

Raghthmore Donegal 1(517 

Bugarloaf Wicklow 1659 

Brandon Hill Kilkenny 1644 

1 rockerraterive Donegal 1627 

DeviTsBit Tipperary 1583 

Divifl Antrim. 1567 

Agnew's Hill „ L558 

King's MtD Sligo 1527 

Benbradagh Derry 1536 

Binbane Donegal 14!>:j 

Bralieve Mtit Roscommon .. .. 14.30 

Munterlony Donegal 1456 

,, 1 106 

Nagles Waterford 140G 

Gabriel .. Cork 1339 

le Mms Mayo 1290 

- . i .! e Clare 1282 

Benyevenagh Dcrrv 12G0 

Mtn. Wexford 1259 

mmakeogh Mayo 1243 

B chra Cork 1209 

Ki Bb I irran Leitrim 11 S3 

I Hill Down 1168 

I aghanleagh Cavan 1116 

Ready .. .. Deny 1101 

Knoctnarea Sligo 1088 

ody Foreland Donegal 1018 

■ quitting the subject of superficial features, a brief mention 

uld be ma<le of the hydrography of Ireland ; a subject of peculiar 

importance to a country which has such vast water power at disposal, 

i which is running to waste in seven cases out of ten. From its 

>n in the Atlantic, Ireland is naturally subject to much rain; 

alt aking strictly, there is not so very much more actual 

nfall than in England, but a great increase of damp, a fact to which 

Ltraordinarily rapid growth and bright hue of vegetation is owing. 

quantity of rainfall is about 36 inches. The following 

- (from Sir It. Kane) show the main arteries of drainage from 

the interior of the country : — 

Sq. milea.1 Sq. miles. 

9 a total basin of 4544 Blackwater and Boyne .. 1086 

B Nore, and Suir .. 3400 Iiflfey, Dodder, and Tolka., 568 

815 Erne L585 

A re 200 Foyle 1476 

i 281 Bann 1266 

Black tei 1214 Blackwater (Armagh) .. 526 

735 I in 227 

Bandon 228 B raghty 475 

(i r 1374 [nny and Maine .. .. 511 

M L033 FealeandGeale 47L* 



xxiv II. Geology. Introd. 

It lias been calculated that, taking the average elevation of the 
country to be 387 ft., there is " distributed over the surface of Ire- 
land a water-power capable of acting night and day, without inter- 
ruption, from the beginning to the end of the year, amounting to 
1,248,849 horse-power." One of the most singular features in Ireland 
are the Lakes, which in many cases assume the size and importance of 
inland seas. The larger ones, which would seem to be of such inesti- 
mable value with regard to inland navigation, are nevertheless practi- 
cally useless from their shallow and rocky beds. As an example we 
may cite the chain of lakes between Gal way and Ballina, viz. : Loughs 
Corrib, Mask, Culleiij and Conn, through which it was fondly hoped 
that a navigable line might be made, so as to save a large amount of 
dangerous westerly coasting. Lough Erne contains in the upper lake 
an area of 9278 acres, and in the lower lake of 28,000 acres, and is 
mainly fed by the river of the same name. As it extends for upwards of 
40 m., a good deal of accommodation might be afforded at a compara- 
tively small outlay between the towns and villages on its banks ; 
although an outlet to the sea is completely prevented by the rapids at 
Belleek and Ballyshannon. 

Lough Neagh has a shore line of 66 m. in circumference, and an area 
of 98,255 acres. It is fed by the Upper Bann, Maine, Black water, and 
Six-mile Water, and has its outlet only by the Lower Bann. The only 
feature of interest lies in the river Bann, which is almost a solitary 
example of extensive natural advantages being turned to good account 
for economical purposes. Loughs Allen, Kea, and Derg should better 
be spoken of as broad estuaries of the Shannon, which in its latter half 
is really made useful for the purposes of navigation. Lough Corrib, 
which occupies a large portion of the co. of Galway, has been of late years 
turned to some account in that way, and a considerable trade developed 
as far as Cong and Headford. Had the unfortunate ship-canal ever 
come to anything, there is no knowing how much the interior of Mayo 
would have been benefited, and perhaps the hindrances of shallow beds 
overcome, and thus the Moy and Galway rivers united. The Lakes 
of Killarney can only be viewed with the eye of an artist or an angler, 
and not with any commercial intentions; were any such ever enter- 
tained, it is doubtful whether the popular indignation of those dependent 
on the tourist district would even allow them to be tried. In the 
smaller lakes, such as Loughs Gill, Ennell, Owell, Gowna, Dereveragh, 
Arrow, Gur, Cooter, Glendalough, Carra, &c, the fisherman and 
tourist are the most interested, as they are not sufficiently important to 
class amongst tr±e industrial resources of Ireland. 

II. Geology. 

Taking into consideration the extensive area of the map of Ireland, 
we may feel somewhat surprised at the comparative sameness and regu- 
larity of the strata. The great central plain previously alluded to is 
in fact composed for the most part of carboniferous limestone surrounded 



Introd. ". Geology. xxv 

OD all sides by elevated ground belonging to the older rocks. The more 
sent formations of the Cainosoicand Mesozoic periods are but scantily 

s nted. 

1. The former or' Tertiary group consist of clays ot the 1 leis- 

era, and are usually found on somewhat elevated positions bor- 

the coast. The localities where they have been noticed are on 

th e g - of Belfast Lough, a good example being visible near the 

st Waterworks; also along the S. E. margin of Lough Neagh, 

en Washing Bay in the co. of Tyrone and Sandy Bay in the co ; 

Antrim, occupying a district of 10 m. in breadth, and consisting of 

clay with sand and irregular beds of lignite. Tertiary 

ably Pleistocene) are met with in the co. of Deny, formi 

on either side the valley of the Roe, extending west- 

3 Muflf, and southward to Dungiven. The shells which 

consist of Turritella terebra, Cyprica islandica, 

Qga. Elevated beds of the Pleistocene era have been 

Far as Wexford. The Basaltic plateau of 

of many flows of lava (basalt often columnar) and 

ish with lignites, &c, is certainly tertiary, probably 

mi . like the leaf-bods of Mull. 

a or chalk formation is exclusively limited to the IN. E. 

of Ireland, commencing near Lurgan and running in a narrow fringe or 

:id th i\ as far as Portrush, and for the most part underlying 

thi - district of which Antrim and a large portion of Deiry are 

in Portrush the chalk runs S. to the W. coast of Lough Neagh, 

though occasionally interrupted by patches of limestone and yellow 

sai ie. On the N. coast especially, the intimate connection of the 

chalk, trap, and basalt is well seen ; for instance, at Ballycastle, where 

in contact on the sea-shore W. of the harbour; at Ballin- 

where ochreous trap may be observed immersed in the chalk; on 

and, "where a deep hollow is observed at the top 

ilk, entirely filled by the massive overlying trap." At the 

w;, • . lumps of basalt maybe observed isolated in the chalk. 

\lt in the crevices of the cliffs flowed in from above, 
or was erupted from below, cannot be determined; taking it, however, 
in connexion with the isolated and imbedded lumps of very hard basalt, 
it appears probable that some of the eruptions took place prior to the 
induration of the chalk ; that the chalky paste was then gradually in- 
dural ad afterwards pierced by later eruptions." — Portlock. 

unction of the basalt and "chalk can be well studied on the road 

from Portrush to Dnnluce ; the basalt, which is amorphous, being m en 

to the drift flints, which in their turn repose on the eroded BUr- 

of the chalk proper. Between Ballintoy and Bengore Head, a 

dley opens to th< at White Park Bay, in which the lias stri 

rlying the chalk are disclosed, containing ammonites and gryphites. 

rocks are visil 2 tin at the Portrush peninsula, wi bey 

ar. :ved to be divided by interposed masses of greenstone, and in 



xxvi ii. Geology. IntrocT. 

fact assume the appearance of igneous rock; but the presence of typical 

ails proves thai this apparent flint slate of Por trust and the Skerries 
is lias-shale, indurated by the action of trap in a state of fusion. 

Westward, in the neighbourhood of Down Hill and M'Gilligan, 
the chalk is still observable at the base of the basalt cliffs, and soon 
trends to the S., dipping at a small angle to the S.E. Underlying the 
chalk from M'Gilligan to Dungiven, a small strip of Triassic or New 
Red sandstone is visible ; and in some of the deep -valleys between 
Benyevenagh and Keady the geologist can obtain a good section of chalk, 
greensand, and new red, the whole capped by basalt. Passing up- 
wards from the sandstone, grey indurated marls are met with forming 
a link between the new red and oolite ; and these contain teeth and 
scales of the following fishes : — Sauricthys apicalis, Gyrolepis Albertii, 
G. tenuistriatus, Acrodus minimus ; all fossils typical of the 
Rhsetic beds. E. of Ballycastle the chalk reappears together with the 
beds of lias underneath ; as far as Red Bay forms a magnificent line 
of escarpment round by Garron Point, Carnlough, Glenarm, Larne, 
and Carrickfergus ; and is next seen capped by basalt at Cave Hill and 
Divis, near Belfast. The lias beds are well exposed at Larne, and the 
new red forms splendid cliffs at Waterfoot. It is also seen accom- 
panying the chalk to the W. of Lough Neagh, in the neighbourhood of 
Dungannon. 

3. The Coal-beds of Ireland are neither of the extent nor of the 
practical value that they fortunately possess in Great Britain. We may 
divide them into 

A. The Kilkenny and Castlecomer coal-field, an irregularly oval 
basin running S.W. from Carlow nearly to Cash el, that may be 
roughly described as occupying the high grounds between the Nore 
and the Barrow, an elevated table-land " constituting a true mineral 
basin, in which the strata incline from the edge towards the centre." 
The following is the general section of the coal-measure series of this 

district : — 

Ft. In. 

Uppermost beds, about .. 12 Intermediate beds 

Peacock coal 1 10 Foot coal 

Intermediate beds .. .. 45 Intermediate beds 

Stony coal .. 3 Gale Hill coal 

Intermediate beds .. .. 21 Flagstone series 650 

Three ft., or Old Colliery coal 3 Black shale series 

See Geol. Surv. Maps and Explan., 136, 137. 

As coal-mining has not reached a very advanced stage in Ireland, the 
only beds hitherto worked have been the three uppermost, as lying 
nearest the surface, the coal produced therefrom being anthracite or 
smokeless coal, which contains about 9G per cent, of carbon, and is only 
adapted to certain uses, such as malting. The Nore separates the 
Slieve Ardagh and Tipperary coal-fields from that of Castlecomer ; 
the Slieve Ardagh collieries, near Killenaulc, being some of the best in 
the country. — (Geol. Surv. Maps arid JExpl., 146, 155, 156.) The 



Ft. 


In. 


180 





1 


6 


300 








6 


650 





500 






In trod, it. Geology. xxvii 

in the southern part o{ the basin, which is sometimes called the 

Tipperary coal-field, dip at a much steeper angle, and "lie in deep 
troi from which arises a peculiar mode o( working, the shaft being 

sunk in the centre of the trough, and the coal wrought by working 
upwards on both sides of it." — K< n< . 

II. The Munster coal-field, although extensive in area, is un- 
important in results. It occupies the hilly districts in the counties 
I Hare, Limerick, Cork, and Kerry, embracing all the country between 
ora on the N. and Killarncy on the S., and bounded inland by a 
line from Kilfenora through Ennis, Foynes, Newcastle, Charleville, 
and K.o.turk. But with a small exception the whole of this greal area 
9 merely shales, often cleaved int<> slatea^and gritstones, often 
•1 flagstones, the only practicable coal being in (dare, where 
thin beds of culm, from which, however, one colliery-owner 
r. This exception is in the barony oi' Duhallow, 
in ' ibourhood ^( Kanturk and Millstreet. Here are six veins of 

ant three of which, known as the Bulk-vein, bock-vein, and 

>f tolerable thickness and have been pretty extensively 

" Tl - of the Munster field lie in a series of troughs, the 

hills usual" king from E. to W., and the strata dipping on either 

V and S., at considerable angles, often per} endicular." — Kane. 

rocks in Clare are of an estimated thickness of 3350 ft., and 

of 

Ft. in. 
Alt- mating grits, fags, and shale, with occasional seams 

of coals .. " 350 

•'.ind a good horizon mark) .. 3 

3, and shale, with thin beds of coal .. .. 2000 

< I ibotrl 850 

Dad }, highly foesiliferoua 150 

numbers o^ plant-stems, together with Aviculopccten 
lonomya, and Goniatites. The ujrits which are quar- 

Kilrush and Kilkee are covered in the most complicated 
ma a nine animals. 

« »n the Kerry >f the Shannon there is about the same thickness 

of and shales, together with three seams of coal, viz. : Hard-seam, 

Rock Lodge vein, which have been worked to the S. of 
Many characteristic coal-plants and shells are to be 
ind ar \ Is d. 

Ardagh, Newcastle, and Abbey feale, there are some thin 

I which ha tially worked. The equivalent of the 

- icld will be found in those beds of coal and grit, known 

■ uth V ins. — See Survey Maps and Expl. t 131, 

. 141. 

'union and Leitrim coal-field differs from the preceding 

al instead of anthracite. It is generally known 

the ArL'iia basin, the hill district on either side Lough 

All the croj 

d.~\ b 



wviii II. Geology. In trod. 

To the W. of Lough Allen is the valley of the Arigna river, flowing 

tween the two hills of Kilronan, 1081 ft., and Altagowlan, 1377 ft. 
At the base of the former are the Arigna Iron-works, which were 

ablished in 1788 with every prospect of working the coal and iron- 
stone of this district to advantage. After a career of 25 years the 
concern failed, not from any want of material or inability to produce 

id iron, hut simply from getting into the hands of a parcel of dishonest 
jobbers, who made the undertaking so notorious, that the very name of 
Arigna became a sufficient terror to everybody who was tempted to 
try his luck in mining enterprise. 

The three veins of coal, two of which are to be found cropping out at 
a considerable height of the mountains, are — the Upper Seam, only 8 or 
9 in., and only observable at the summit of Slieve ni-Aran (Iron Moun- 
tain) on the E. of Lough Allen ; the Top coal, 2 ft. 6 in. ; the Crow coal, 
1 ft. to 3 ft. The coals in the Kilronan Mountain have been principally 
worked to supply the Arigna Iron-works, from which a tramroad was 
carried to the townland of Aghabehy. Both in Kilronan and Altagowlan 
Mountains the beds are much disturbed by faults ; in the former " being 
traversed by at least six faults radiating from the centre of the hill." 
— Da Noyer. 

The wonderful results of denudation may be instructively studied 
here. 

" In truth, there is no reason why, at one period of our geological 
history, the great mass of the bituminous coal-bearing strata occurring 
in England should not have extended over what is now Ireland ; but, 
stiange to say, while this store of inestimable wealth was being pre- 
served in England, and covered by the New Red sandstone, and probably 
Tertiary rocks, the adjoining portion of the earth's crust was being 
gradually raised from beneath the sea, and well nigh effectually denuded 
of its carbonaceous covering." — Du Noyer, 

D. The Tyrone coal-field supplies bituminous coals. It is consider- 
ably disturbed and contorted, and differs from the preceding coal-basins 
by being partly covered over by New Red or Triassic rocks. It has 
been subdivided into the Coal Island and Annahone districts, the former 
containing an area of about 7000 acres, and six workable beds of 

coal : — 

Ft. in. ft. 
Annacrher .. .. 8 to 10 



Yard 2 „ 3 

Braghayeel .. .. 4 9 „ 5 



Ft. in. ft. 

Balteboy .. .. 9 to 3 

Deny .. .. .. 4 6 „ 5 

Gortnaskea .. .. 2 „ 6 



— thus presenting the extraordinary thickness of 22 to 32 ft. of solid 
coal in a depth of 120 fathoms. 

The Annahone basin is very small ; is bounded on the N. by the 
carboniferous limestone, and is overlaid on the S. by the new red. 
There are three beds of workable coal in it. 

E. The Ballycastle field is the most singular in its geological position 
and association with the basalts of the Causeway and Fairhead. In 
fact, it is altogether covered over by a layer of columnar greenstone ; 



Introd. II. Oology. xxix 

I were it not for the escarped precipice facing the sen, the coal would 

bly never have been discovered. There were six beds of coal at 

Murlough Bay, of which four were bituminous and two anthracite ; the 

tow worked out, the only value of the held being now in the 

As the basalt is found lying amongst the coal, a better 

dity could not be found for investigating how far the production of 

iiraei: is influenced by the proximity of the igneous action; in 

s, whether the change is chemical or mechanical. Interesting 

ight also be raised as to the age of this coal-basin. The 

llierv has an additional claim to notice as being the 

Is known and worked in Ireland, for, it is said, when the 

liers were pursuing operations in 1770, they broke into an ancient 

>ntaining primitive and rude mining implements. 

aiferous Limestone may be said to comprise half Ire- 

1. 1, with a few exceptional patches, the whole of the great 

d plain is com] aed fit; and the tourist may journey across the 

Dublin to Gal way. Mallow, or Killarney, without touching 

formation. In parts of the carboniferous formation of 

1 - iesisinl rposed, which is wanting in Great Britain, 

ssital - its division into three series — Upper, Middle or Calp, 

Limestone, i. We find the former constituting high and 

lantic ranges in the neighbourhood of the coal-fields, viz. : to the N. 

tnnon and Coal island, in the magnificent ranges that run from 

nniskillen and Swanlinbar, and in fact completely encircle 

•"•mmon coal-field. A large area also commences at Clare-Gal way 

\. i : < I tlway, and extends, according to Sir Richard Griffiths's 

p, in an unbroken surface to Ennis and the Shannon, bordering on 

1 Hare field, and thence continuing southward to form a 

w belt around the S. Minister field. A similar though broader 

to be found in Kilkenny and Tippcrary surrounding the sand- 

- and [ of the Castlecomer and Kilkenny basins. 

ii. T\ I ilp or Middle Limestone is usually an impure earthy or 

- lim< generally black or very dark grey, frequently 

of black lime>tone, separated by partings of black 

de. Although I rce, when compared with those found 

. they arc of the same typical character, 
Flustra, Cyathocrinus, Avicula, Posidonia, Leptcena, Ortho- 
cc: c. 

iii. The Lower Limestone forms the bulk of the central plain of Ire- 

sprea to the feel of the hills of old red sandstone and other 

>r rocks, or running up the valleys between them. The Lower 

illy a good grey limestone, like that of Derbyshire 

\ land and Wales. 

i the Limestones there are almost always found s< < beds 

of black - In S. Wales, with their flaggy Limestones in the up] er 

1 their grits and sandstones below. These nay be called the 

Lower Limestone shales. They thicken out in co. Cork, and pass into 

the carboniferous slate of that district. 

I 2 



xix ii. Geology. Introd. 

5. Lyin ; below the Limestone shales is a great thickness of rock, respect- 
in ; which a considerable amount of discussion has prevailed amongst 
Irish ami English geologists. By the former it is generally claimed as 
the upper old rod, but from the predominance of yellow or white sand- 
Btone is usually known (and is coloured by Sir R. Griffith) as the 

Low sandstone group, and divided by him into the subordinate 
groups of carboniferous slate and yellow sandstone proper. " The 

imdary between the upper old red and the rocks below is a perfectly 
arbitrary one, since they graduate quite insensibly into each other." — 
logical Survey, For convenience sake, therefore, it is as well to 
describe them with the old red, which occupies a large area in the S. of 
Ireland that may be roughly described as extending from the southern 
side of the Blackwater to the coast, occasionally interrupted by a valley 
of limestone, such as the Lee near Cork. N. of the Blackwater it ex- 
tends to Clonmel (valley of the Suir), and forms the noble range of the 
Galty Mts. near Tipperary. N. of the Suir, near Slievenaman, we find 
it again running N.E. as far as Goresbridge, and crossing the valley of 
the Nore between Thomastown and Inistiogue. In central Ireland it is 
observed in patches to the W. of Lough Derg, forming the Slieve 
Bouohta Mountains, and from Killaloe running N.E. to Roscrea and 
Maryborough, surrounding a patch of upper Silurian rocks in its course. 
In the S.W. districts it is largely developed in the Dingle promontory, 
the Reeks, and Caha Mountains, and fringing the promontories of 
Ken mare and Bantry. In the Slieve Mish Mountains at Bautregaum, 
near Tralee, " the lowest beds seen are red sandstones obliquely laminated, 
and about 20 or 300 ft. in thickness. Above them is a conglomerate 
consisting of rounded pebbles, of quartz, jasper, and limestone, ce- 
mented together in a base of red sand. Above the conglomerate are 
more red sandstones and red slates, w T ith occasional calcareous beds or 
limestones which pass upwards into the beds of the Upper Old Red."- 
Geological Survey. 

The Old Red is of great thickness in the Dingle and Cahirciveen 
formations, for on the S. side of the Black Glen (Killarney) a section is 
obtained through part of the Glengarriff grits and purple beds which 
form the lowest series, of upwards of 5000 ft., and Mr.. O'Kelly deter- 
mines one section to the W. of the Blackwater of 8000 ft. These 
Glengarriff grits and Dingle beds are in all probability the equivalents 
of the Corn and Brownstones of Breconshire and Herefordshire. The 
fossils of the Old Red in Ireland are scanty, but peculiar, such as the 
Anodon Jukesii, a freshwater mussel, and the Cyclopter/'s Hibernica — a 
magnificent fern, a specimen ol* which in full fructification was dis- 
covered near Waterford, and at Killamery, to the E. of Slievenaman. 

6. The Upper Silurians are mainly confined to the S.W. district of 
Kerry, commencing on the S. side of the Blackwater between Millstreet 
and Mallow, and occupying the greater part of the promontories of 
Bearhaven and Iveragh, with the western half of the Dingle promontory. 
These beds are the representatives of the Wenlock and Ludlow beds of 
Shropshire. On the shores of Lough Mask are strata which Professor 



ttntrod. n. Geology* xx^i 

14 Iville considers to be the equivalents of the May Hill deposits — the 
of the Silurians passing upwards into the Wenlock beds. This 
riot between Lough Mask and the coast contains some unusual 
Silurian fossils, viz. Portlockia sublcevis, Asaphus marginatus, liar; 
s, &c. 

,ower Silurians are more scattered. They occupy the district 

;n the base of the Commeragh Mountains to Waterford, yielding 

A apyx nasutus, Phacops Jamesii, Asterias, Favosites, &o. They 

— the estuary, and cover most of the county of Wexford, 

uing northward as tar as Wicklow, where the Cambrian rocks show 

- between Ki Hough ter and Bray, The Lower Silurians are also 

md on tin 1 slot es k^i the Galty Mts., in a detached portion to the E. 

naman : and in the centre of Ireland rise from underneath the 

I bed in the Slieveboughty, Arra. Keeper, and Silvermine Mountains, 

from the W. coast of Lough Derg to near Thurles and 

We find them again on the E. o( the Southern and 

ru Railway, running; from Baltinglass to within a tew miles oi 

1 . and only s-i arated from the Wicklow Silurians by an exten- 

. which commences at the sea-coast in Dublin Bay, 

- without intermission almost to New boss. 

V Ireland a very wide district of Lower Silurian pre- 

vai minencing a little to the X. of Longford, from whence it runs 

X.! . Armagh, Hillsborough, to Donaghadee — its southern 

f being a line drawn through Granard, Virginia, Kells, and 

The only interruptions in all this long range are in the 

wer limestone running southward from Carrickmacross, and 

s of th" Mourne Mountains. 

Th( l abrian rocks of Ireland are almost devoid of fossils, with the 

me obscure traces of Fucoids, some well-marked Annelid 

bur . and I ophytes found at Bray and elsewhere, known as the 

mtiqua and radiata. 

7. S 3 of the X. of Ireland is composed of metamorphic or 

In 1 1 ral we have large districts of granitic and meta- 

rphic iposing the Derryveagh and Errigal Mountains, in- 

with quartz-r and mica-slates. This last is occasionally 

shining slates, and embraces the southern portion 

of D , including the peninsula of Glen and fully one-half of the 

U :v. The remaining half (except what is occupied by the 

ne), together with Antrim, is composed of tabular trap 

the chalk, ted with basalt (p. xxv). With the excep- 

f the Mourne and the Slieve Ghillion range, 

by the quartz Cambrian rocks and greenstones of Howth and 

othing but isolated traps until we reach the granites 

, which 8.W. through Wicklow nearly as fir as 

There are also several isolated trap and granite ro< 

sea ugh Wexford. 

8. W. ol Ireland, other? ■>> intricate in its geological arran§ - 
, is mercifully fr< m the complications oi us rocks, the 



xxxii . II. Geology. In trod. 

oeareet point where they are found being between Limerick and Tip* 
penury . A good example is seen in the basaltic columns of Linfield 
(lite. 30), There arc also some detached traps in the central limestone 
plain, as at Croghan near Kdenderry. 

In the \V. of Inland (Connemara) they are in great force. Granite 
extends from Galway to Poundstone, and mica-slate with quartz-rocks 
occupies the remainder of the country as far as the Silurians of Lough 
Mask. Mica- slate is seen on the S. coast of Clew Bay, and also forms 
the greater portion of Ballycroy and Achill. 

The mountainous district of Erris is principally quartz, which 
abruptly displaces the yellow sandstones and limestones that extend 
hence to Sligo. 

8. One of the most remarkable features in the geology of the central 
plain of Ireland is the drift which may be so frequently observed occu- 
pying the slopes of the valleys, and taking the form of long straight r idges. 
They may be studied by the traveller from Dundalk to Newbliss* from 
Dublin to Galway, and from Mallow to Killarney and Killorglin. " The 
drifts of Ireland are divided by some geologists into — 1st, Clay Drift ; 
2nd, Great Drift ; 3rd, Escar Drift. The last is supposed to be the 
effect of eddies, as the land approached the surface. Much of Ireland 
has evidently been submerged long after the Boulder drift epoch ; and 
the rounded hills of the Escar Drift, being to a certain extent stratified 
quartz, must have been deposited by currents of water, and not by 
glaciers or floating bergs." 

A few words should be said of the botany of Ireland, not merely on 
account of its peculiarity, but because that peculiarity bears in a con- 
siderable degree on the earl} 7 geology of the country. The flora of Ire- 
land, especially in the W. and S.W., is of an Andalusian or Iberian type, 
according to the nomenclature of the late Professor Forbes, who believed 
that a great continent, which connected Spain and Ireland, was formed 
by the upheaval of the Miocene Tertiaries, and that this tract bore the 
peculiar fauna and flora which are still met with in the Azores, Madeira, 
Spain, and Ireland. For instance, the Trichomanes radicans, found at 
Killarney, is only found elsewhere in the north of Africa, Madeira, the 
West Indies, and Western Spain. The Arbutus, indigenous to Kil- 
larney, is found indigenous only in N. W. Spain. The Saxifrage, 01 
London Pride, of which there are six species, is confined to Ireland and 
the Spanish Mediterranean shores. The heaths, again — Erica Mac- 
kayana, Mediterranea, and Daboecia, all typical heaths — are of Anda- 
lusian kindred. " One of the orchis tribe, Spiranthes gemmifera, grows 
upon the coast of the county of Cork, and many botanists are of opinion 
that this plant is not to be found in any other portion of the world. 
However, more recent observations tend to establish a relationship 
between it and another species abundant in Western Europe." — 
St. James's Magazine. All these facts, whether altogether tenable or 
not, are unusually interesting, as throwing light on the early condition 
of a large country by means of a science which is not generally suffi- 
ciently studied with a view to collateral results. 



Introd. in. P ints of Interest for Geologist and Botanist* xxxiii 



Tli ' >-:i>t should on no account omit paying a visit to the Mu- 
[rish Industry in Stephen's Green before lie commences his 

In the country, as, in addition io the specimens of rocks 
Is that he will find there, he will be able to obtain the neees- 
y information from the officers of the Survey, who are ever ready- 
He should also gel the small geological map of Sir R. 
-. which is reduced from his large one, and only costs a lew 
shillings. The pamphlets of the Survey, called 'Explanations of 

lie b uides that can be taken for those districts 

ich ar iribed in them, and the sheets of the map of the Geological 

which are published separately, should be purchased for any 

• to be closely examined. They can be obtained at the Museum, 

or. - md Smith's in (irai'ton-street. 

111. Points of [ntkbest for the Gkot.ogist. 



- on the W. Bhore of 
1 igh, n< - 1 1 Ifast 

1 ' } 

1..W V 

Snare b, t a < < n Pundi Ik and New- 

1 l of Mang< rton and 

Killarney vail 
Moraines in Gap 

1 ' 

Portmsh. 
Ju chalk and basalt at 

1 » , luce. 

I lianVfl Can and 

I d. 

• ' r :dl. 

B< If 
Gi^ Hill q in chalk and 

Ditl i I • j i \' oagfa 

id K< N R d fishes). 

\ Coal 1 ~ : ;iii'l c-'iiii ri< 

. « r. Bel- 

linoni 

1. Coal - plants and 

llycast lli« ri< Murlnu^h 

I'. Coal with and under ; 
It. 

in lower car- 

H Florence i >urt. 

niferous linn - 
1 ' found I 

R -'. . P( adonis 



with both valves found in carboni- 
ferous shah s. 

Hook Point, Wexford. Lower car- 
boniferous limestone. Crinoids in 
remarkable preservation. 

Marble Arch, Cuilcagh, EnnisMllen. 

Cork. Lower carboniferous lime- 
>ne. Good Cephalopoda and 
( rasteropoda. 

Carboniferous sandstones at Kilkee. 
Tracks of marine animals. 

Upper limestones of Galway and 
Lough Corrib. Pigeon-hole at 
Cong. 

Knocknarea, Sligo. Upper lime- 
ne. 

Liough Neagh. Lignites. 

Lisbellaw near Enniskillen. Silurian 
conglomerates. 

Mncfcross. Y\ llow sandstone. 

S ction al Bantry Bay from Glcn- 
n iff grits to earb. slates. 

Glengarriff grits and Purple beds, 
Gap of Dunloe and the Reeks. 

Flank.- of Slieve Mish, Tralee. Yel- 
low sandstone. 

Upper Silurians, Loujrh Mask; Pas- 
Bage from May Hill beds into 
Wenlock. 

Ferritor's Cove, Dingle. Good U] >per 
Silurian fossils. 

Chair of Baldare. Lower Silurians. 

Kilnaleck, near Longh Sheelin. An- 
thracite coal in Lower Silurians. 

< ourtown, co. Wexford. Lower Silu- 
rifi 



XX XIV 



iv. Industrial Resources — The Flax-plant. 



In trod. 



Tramore, Waterfard. Lower Silu- 
rians; Bala beds. 

Bray. Cambrian rocks. Oldhamia 
radiata and antiqua. 

Howth and Ireland's Eye. Ditto. 

Killiney. The shore of the bay, at 
low water, shows veins of granite 



traversing mica schist with layers 

of Staurolite, &c. 
Granites of Donegal. 
Tabular traps of M'Gilligan and 

Keady. 
Killamery, near Clonmel. Yellow 

sandstone. Oyclopteris Hibernica. 



For the Botanist. 



Dargle and Powerscourt. 

Muckish and Donegal hills. 

Lough Gartan, Donegal. 

Narrow Water Castle, Newry. 

Slieve Ban, Kostrevor. 

Colin Glen, Belfast. 

Lough Bray ) 

Glencree S 

Benbulben, Shgo. 

Lough Easke, Donegal. 

Grey Abbey, Down. 

Valley of the Lee, Cork. Pinguicula 

grandiflora. 
Muilrea Mt. Erica Mediterr. 
Burren Mt. Dryas octopetala. 



Killarney, Tore, Carrantuoghal. 

Portmarnock. 

Benyevenagh. 

M'Gilligan. 

Urrisbeg (Roundstone). Erica Mac- 

kayana and Mediterranea. 
Pass of Keimaneigh (London Pride). 
Cave Hill, Belfast. 
Connor Mt. \ Dingle, Sibthorpia 
Brandon Mt. f Europsea. 
Coast near Dundrum. 
Slieve Donard range. 
Dungiven, Valley of the Roe. 
Hungry Hill, Glengarriff. 
Devenish Island. 



IV. Industrial Resources. 
1. — The Flax-plant. 

Of all the articles of commerce yielded by Ireland, flax may be said 
to be the most valuable, if not the staple trade ; and although the flax- 
producing and linen-making area does not comprise more than a third of 
Ireland, the numbers of those engaged in the trade, together with its 
social features, at once stamp it as the manufacture par excellence of 
the country. Although linen is mentioned in early times, it was not till 
the 17th cent, that it became an article of much importance, a great 
deal of encouragement having been given by Lord Strafford, the then 
Lord Lieutenant, and many improvements introduced by Louis Crom- 
melin, a French refugee, who settled at Lisburne. Since his day it has 
considerably increased, though not to the extent that might be supposed, 
the number of acres that were sown in 1861 being only 147,866. 

The flax-plant (Linum usitatissimum) requires a dry, loamy soil, 
which is considered by some to be much impoverished by the crop. 
This is, however, a mistake ; for it has been proved, that, if not grown 
oftener than once in 10 years on the same soil, it is not of an exhaustive 
nature. 

The average yield is from 30 to 35 stones per acre, and the 
average profit from 4:1. to 51., though it has been known under 
favourable circumstances to have reached as much as 14Z. 

The (lax-seed is sown about April, at the rate of about two bushels 



Introd. iv. Industrial Res x—The Flax-jtmt. ixxv 

E icrlish acre, and at a depth of an inch below the surface, 
ien gently harrowed and rolled, great care being taken 

s lv removed before the plant becomes too high. 

The conditions of sowing del end on whether the tanner wishes 

, d or superiority of fibre. " When seed is the principal object, 

is sown thinlv; when fibre, on the contrary, as thickly as 

, wlt h satetv be allowed, for the purpose of drawing up ong thin 

11S and -ainin- thereby a fine quality oi fibre. -Charity, lhe 

,1 the sten .uld be .tone in fine weather, the next ope- 

in passing the tops of the plants through a sort oi 

, called a " rippled the object of which is to remove the flax 

I 3 which aiv lu u of seed. The stems, bound in Reaves, are then 

| in streams o( water for from 10 to 1 1 nays 
wbi( ) a process of fermentation goes on, dissolving out oi 

a liuant ity of nitrogen and inorganic material, rhey are Jen 
. ,,,1 lightly over a gras^field to dry- The ravelle 
, during tl ping and drying season is not likely to iorget 

ifted with a nose insensible to odours, lor the whole 
be impregnated with the pungent and nlthy smell. 
n up from the grass, the fibre is separated trom the 
eration termed "scutching, in some districts 
X .'U . and in others by machinery, consisting oi a hon- 

ith nn leu blades attached, revolving and acting on the 

In L852 there were 956 scutching-mills at work m 
i,v water, others by steam. The flax being now 
market, and is taken by the grower to the various 
x-markets are held, such as Derry, Strabaue, Armagh, 
in , Arc, where it comes into competition with Belgian 
n productions. The next pro ft spmmng, the nrst 
ing, according to the different yarns required ; 
" in which the fibre is still further combed and 
,i machinery, which is now the agent until the linen 
. "drawn" for the purpose oi having all tne 
and is then transferred to the spiniimg-jennies. The 
pally at Belfast, although try no means con- 
v: tl re in the whole of Ireland upwards of 82 

in, li- nearly 7< Ospindles. Lhe various localities 
,t j.rmluctions; for instance— Lisburn, for damasks; 
- nd lawns; Armagh, for heavy linens; Ballymena, 
. for brown and colour ods, &c. lhe exports 
n mh amounted to 65,000,000 yards ot linen, and 
. i linen yarn and thn-ad. We must not forget in con- 
. the imiortant trade of sewed muslins, which gives 
irlv lialt-a-million people ; or the manufacture oi starch 
largely carried on at Belfast, 10 firms employing 
i quart f wheat. A vigorous efforl is now hem- made 

ultnre to the S. and W. of Ireland, an ms 

now between 3000 and 4000 aciea under 



oj 
ai 
cl 



: 



bZ 



xxxvi IV. Industrial Resources — Agriculture. In trod. 

cultivation, while Kilkenny county alone possesses over 2000. In 
Connaught, too, notwithstanding the discontinuance of the government 
grant that formerly existed, the crop has become very popular, and is 
likely to be more so as the people become sensible of its value. 

2. — Agriculture. 

Although a dissertation on farming scarcely comes within the^ province 
of a Handbook, a few statistics may not be uninteresting ; for, apart 
from the interest necessarily excited by the prosperity or ill-success of 
Ireland as a social topic, the traveller cannot fail to have noticed the 
extraordinary conditions of surface which are characteristic of the greater 
part of the country. From inquiries made in 1862, it appears that 
the quantity of land under tillage, and the number of live stock, had 
considerably decreased; there being, in 1862, 2,552,223 acres under 
cereal crops, showing a decrease of 73,734 acres from the year before. 
There was a decrease of nearly the same extent in green crops, and 
what is rather more serious, a decrease of more than 116,000 acres 
under potatoes. As a consequence, there has been a diminution in live 
stock in all save the matter of pigs. But, though there appeared a de- 
crease as compared with one year's produce, there was a vast increase if 
we take an average of the last 20 years ; the reason being " that the 
agriculture of Ireland as a whole is greatly advanced. Examples of 
management have been extensively multiplied in all districts ; in some 
localities the farming shows universal improvement in the adoption of 
alternate husbandry and stall-feeding, in draining and building, and the 
management of manurei and tillage processes ; while in other parts of 
the country no perceptble progress has been made." An enormous 
amount of good has been effected by the working of the Encumbered 
Estates Court, which has disposed of lands to the amount of nearly 
24,000,000Z., and established a Parliamentary title over nearly 3,500,000 
acres. As a consequence, a large amount of capital has been introduced 
into the country, bringing in its wake all the modern improvements of 
scientific farming. Of course in such an extensive area, embracing so 
many geological formations and soils, every variety of agriculture is 
to be seen. 

In Cork co. the great feature consists in dairies, from which no less than 
200,000 cwts. of salt-butter are annually sold in Cork market. Thus 
in this county grazing lands predominate, although there is a fair pro- 
portion of tillage. The district principally consists of old red sandstone, 
with friable sandy loams, rented at from 18s. to 30s. per acre, and in the 
limestone valleys at 40s. There are several model farms in the vicinity 
of Cork, amongst which may be mentioned that of Mr. St. John 
Jefferies, at Blarney, who farms 2500 acres ; and the Duke of Devon- 
shire's model farm at Lismore. 

The land in co. Kerry is not nearly so rich, most farms having bog 
or mountain land in connexion, the value being estimated by the 
" collop," equal to the maintenance of one cow ; so that a farm con- 



Introd. iv. Industrial Resources — Agriculture. xxxvu 

tains so many oollops, acooidmg to its size and qualities. The wild 
mountains maintain a good many sheep and cattle, oi which the Bar- 
famed Kerry cow is a peculiar feature; though, in consequence oi the 
fancy prices given by Englishmen, the true Kerry breed is very scarce. 
In the lands which border the Lakes ofKillamey a good deal oi fine 

wheat is grown. , 

There is productive grass and tillage land m co. Limerick, particu- 
larly along the banks of the Shannon, where the alluvial land called 

xtraordinarily rich quality, and yields 3J tons to the 

acre without flooding or manure. The best farming will be found < a 

Dunraven's estate at Adare, and in the neighbourhood ol Rathkeale. 

Tipperary poss sses grazing-lands of high quality and fertility, and 

mports a large class of graziers and dairymen. No county can show 

more improvement than Galway, which supports a great number of 

■heep and cattle, and has, particularly in the E. districts, some very 

tine farms, such as that, of Mr. Pollock, near Lalhnasloc (hte. 14). 

• rhbourhood of Clifden, too, a considerable amount oi miprove- 

m , ,,11 of barren lands has taken place. 

mbraces a quantity of small farms, " exhibiting the same sloth 
,verty that characterised them generations ago." The Larl 
o: m, i s t h< _ it landholder in this county, and cultivates one ot 

the I in Ireland at Castlebar. _ 

m is a producer of sheep and horned stock, which thrive 
well on the rich grazing-lands produced by the overflowings of the 
ck and the Shannon. From hence, right through the centre 
of Ireland, including Westmeath and Meath, we find the principal 
dstrict, by far the greatest number and the best sort of stock 
in these pastures. Westmeath contains also a certain 
ount°of tillage as well as grazing farms. Cavan is a butter 
intry with much grass depastured by cattle, but few sheep; but 
to th, v. v.. enter .[iiite a different character of land, Tyrone being 
Qy plough-land and lea under grazing or hay. The neat 
e of the farm-steadings is a great contrast to the 
of those in the W. " Both Tyrone and Derry display 
minute farming i d corn-land, unadapted for permanent pasture, by 

aD m 8> thrift v population, mainly dependent upon flax, oats, 

ah . and i : ring and improving under the security of tenure 

by peculiar Ulster tenant-right." 
flax-crop, the particulars of which are detailed in p. xxx, is a 
rtq | U ce m Derry, Tyrone, Antrim, and Down, and exercises a 

ailiar characteristic influence over the husbandry of the districts. 
wilds i >f 1 Donegal a vast amount of reformation is needed amongst 
e thinly-scattered and poor population, though a great improvement 
ady been effected by the labours of Lord George ilill in his 
tte (Rte. 10). 
Alon" the E. coast we find that Kildare is about the best-farmed 
coi ur 1 Waterford the worst; the former containing line tillage 

land With large, well-kept farms ; and the latter presenting wretched 



xxxv iii iv. Industrial Resources — Minerals. Introd. 

small-farm husbandry, " with half-starved oat-crops, and lazy-bed 
potatoes; yet with localities exhibiting great advance, where good land- 
lords and considerate agents are assisting in building and draining, and 
generally instructing the tenants in better modes of farming." 

M The tenure of landed property varies considerably. Formerly the 
custom prevailed of granting leases, either in perpetuity, for 999 years, 
or for lives renewable for ever, with or without renewal fine... Hence 
some of the owners of very large estates receive a very small share of 
the actual profits. The leases commonly granted at present are for 61, 
31, or 21 years, with very frequently a life or lives. Estates are of 
every extent, from a very small quantity to 50,000 acres, and every 
holder who lias under-tenants assumes the grade and bearings of a gen- 
tleman. Hence the class of respectable yeomen is scarcely known. 
The cottier system, by which the occupying tenant receives a patch of 
land, in part or whole payment of wages, and that of rundale, in which 
a large tract is held by a number of individuals in common, are still 
prevalent in places." — Thorns ' Directory. 9 

3. — Minerals. 

A. Coal. — The geology of the Irish coal-fields has been explained in 
p. xxvi, and it only now remains to give their statistical produce. Accord- 
ing to the last Mining Records, the following is the number of collieries, 
of which about one-third were not working; : — 

Ballycastle coal-basin . . . . 2 

Tyrone ,, .... 3 

Leitrim „ .... 7 

Castiecomer and Carlo w . . 33 



Munster (Slieve Ardagh) .. 15 
„ (Kanturk) .. .. 2 
„ (Limerick) .. .. 7 



The total produce of the coal-fields was 120,630 tons, of which 80,420 
tons were anthracite. Coal-mining is, however, carried on in too desul- 
tory a manner to be considered as a national branch of commerce as it is 
in Great Britain, from which country, consequently, nine-tenths of the 
whole supply is brought. 

B. Although Turf cannot be called a mineral, yet its general substi- 
tution for the purposes of coal entitles it to consideration amongst the 
industrial resources of Ireland. Indeed, no tourist can help being struck 
with the vast amount of turf which he sees either being cut or stacked 
for drying in the inland counties, or with the universal topic of conver- 
sation with respect to the turf-crop, the success or ill-success of which 
brings comfort or tribulation to hundreds and thousands of poor families. 
Various attempts have been made to dry and compress peat, so as to 
utilise it instead of coal, and a company is working at Ballymena with 
that object. The late Lord Willoughby d'Eresby and Mr. Charles 
Williams paid much attention to the subject, and the latter brought 
several plans into operation ; one of which was, to dry the turf and then 
impregnate it with tar, by which it was rendered incapable of absorbing 
more moisture, and made more calorific. Another plan was to break up 
the fibre of the fresh-cut turf, and then subject it to strong hydraulic 



Intro!. iv. Industrial Resources — Mi\ erals. xxxix 

ire, by which the water was driven out. This compressed peat 

only about 5s. per ton, and moreover makes a very fine coke, 

nsity of which is greater than that of wood charcoal. 

< . / . — Although iron-ore in sonic shape or other is plentiful 

in Ireland, iron-making 3, with one exception, not carried on at all ; 

rtly owing to the difficulty of obtaining the necessary fuel for 

elting purpos -.and partly to the disrepute brought on iron-making 

dertakings by the affairs of the Arigna Company (p. xxviii), which 

check to the development of the trade. The brown 

1 oxide occurs in abundance in the Tyrone coal-field, together 

Qstone in the Connaughl and Leinster fields ; in the former 

lundanl (at Arigna) ;is to have given the name of Slieve-ni- 

in (^ Iron Mountain) to one of the hills. 

In th a dist Achill and Donegal a large quantity of 

re is raised and shipped for Liverpool. It is valuable from 
ability, and its adaptation t<> tine castings. 

- of spat hose and hydrate oxide, and 2000 tons of 

►m the Belfast district, were imported. 

1 >. s I in Ireland, though principally worked 

in >f Dublin and Wicklow, "the veins crossing in 

ue direction the junction of the granite with the mica slate." 

mure vein is the finest in the district, having been traced for 

. .nd being usually ."> ft. wide, yielding about 4 tons of galena 

fathom. The Lugganure and ( rlendalough mines yielded, 

if lead-ore and 2828 of silver-ore. 

irincipal mines in Ireland are at Newtownards, co. Down, the 

:ies in Armagh, and some mines in Waterford; the total 

2 229S ' 3, yielding 1407 of lead. The Mining 

f Ireland have large smeiting-works at Bally corus, near Bray. 

1 '. -minee have been divided by Sir liobert Kane into 

tin — 

1. Wicklow group, which comprises the works at Ballymurtagh, 

Ti I (lit.-. 24). 

e Waterford group embraces the mines at Knockmahon. 

• of quartz, and produce native copper, 
gnlptn oxide, and grey copper-ore. 

k and Kerr tp contains the Audley, Eoaring Water, 
. md the Ailihies mines near Berehaven. 
iv all these mines find their way to the Swansea 
■meltirj - . and yielded, in 1857, 8000 tons of ore, producing 916 

\ alne i ' »/. 

1'. I Ldition to t : pie articles of commerce, there are a few 

Others which are only locally important ; such as the salt-mines at Dim- 
cm . ir Bell ; gold deposits of Wicklow, at Croghan-Kinshcel a 
2J 1); and the working and quarrying of the. different rocks, such 
rboniferous Limestone, steatite (in Achill), ^c. 
\ very valuable industrial resource has of late years been de- 
in tbe :' Ireland, which are now being carried on in 

manner, the result of private enterprise, assisted by the 



xl v. Travelling View. Introd. 

salutary legislation which has within the last few years happily come 
into fashion. It is a curious fact, that during the great famine in the 
west, although salmon and other fish was in abundance, and to be had 
for the catching, scarce one of the starving peasantry would touch it. 
Perhaps, if it had been more difficult to obtain, it would have been more 
valuable. Galway is indebted to Mr. Ashcroft for the perseverance 
with which he has bred young salmon, and formed a salmon-walk be- 
tween Loughs Mask and Corrib. The same may be said of the late 
Mr. Cooper of Markree, who placed salmon-ladders at Bally sadare, and 
thus created an extremely valuable fishery. The fisheries on the Moy 
at Ballina, on the Erne at Ballyshannon, on the Grweebarra at Doocharry 
Bridge, on the Bann at Coleraine, and on the Shannon at Killaloe, are, 
it is to be hoped, but beginnings of a profitable and economical trade. 

Y. Tbavelling View. 

The first thing for the intending traveller in Ireland is to make up 
his mind by what route he shall enter the island. He has plenty of 
choice from which to select, according to his locality in the sister coun- 
try, his love or horror of the sea-passage, and other circumstances. 

The routes by sea are as follows : — 

1. From Holyhead to Kingstown twice every day by the mail 
steamers, Connaught, Ulster, Leinster, and Munster — four of the most 
splendid and serviceable boats in any country. This is the route 
patronised by ninety -nine out of a hundred tourists and travellers, from 
its speed, comfort, punctuality, and short sea-passage. The distance 
is oniy 66 m., which is almost invariably performed in four hours. 

2. From Holyhead to Dublin direct is a slower though rather more 
economical way of proceeding. The time occupied is about six hours, 
as the steamers are more calculated for carrying cargoes than for running 
at a high speed. 

3. From Liverpool to Dublin the distance is 137 m., and the dura- 
tion of passage 12 hours. This route cannot be recommended, except 
to the traveller who has plenty of time on his hands. 

4. From Stranraer (Portpatrick) to Larne is a convenient and easy 
passage for those who live in the North of England and want to get to 
the North of Ireland. The sea-passage is only 2 hours, though the 
sail up the respective lochs occupies f of an hour more.* From 
Larne a rly. recently opened conveys the traveller to Belfast. The 
shortest steamer route, viz. from Portpatrick to Donaghadee, was 
abolished when the mail station at that port was closed. It will, 
however, be no doubt re-established, now that there is direct rly. com- 
munication from Belfast. 

5. From Fleetwood to Belfast is a favourite route for northern 
tourists, and is in connection with the Midland Ely. The distance 
between the two ports is 120 m., taking 12 hours in its performance. 



* This passage has been temporarily suspended in consequence of the traffic being in- 
sufficient. 



Introd. V. Travelling View. xli 

6. From Whitehaven to Belfast, the sea-passage is only 9 hoars, but 
there is not the same amount of travelling accommodation as there is hy 
the Fleetwood route. 

7. 'From Milford Haven to Waterford a mail steamer sails daily, in 
anection with the Great Western and South Wales Rlys. It is a fine 

passage o( about 10 hours, though one requiring smooth water for the 
enjoyment v( it. 

Prom Bristol to Cork, Waterford, and Wexford, calling at Tenhy 
and Swansea. Length of passage, IS hours. 

'.». From Newport and Cardiff to Cork. These last two routes are 

principally for heavy traffic, although large numbers of passengers 

lil themselves of the steamers from Bristol, which are well-found, 

sailing boats. 
Through fares are in every ease provided for by the London and 
N >rth- Western, Great Western, and Midland Lilys., which provide for 
* by the Holyhead, Milford, and Morecamb steamers 
v. Lut the tourist during the summer months should by 
all means provide himself with a M tourist's ticket," which is avail- 
able : ae month, and is issued by the London and Norths-Western 
an Western Companies, enabling the traveller to break his 

journ all the principal places worth seeing, w T hcre he may 

long as he likes, provided he returns within the time speci- 
alties him to see a certain district with great economy and 
precision, though, of course, it will not be of much use in a prolonged 
;r. The tariff of prices, times, and arrangement of transits, can 
always be found in the current ' Bradshaws,' without which, together 
with a ' Falconer's Irish Eailway Guide,' the tourist should never 
ivel. The London and North-Western tourist's ticket entitles the 
holder to stop at Chester, Bangor, Holyhead, and Dublin, as long as he 
likes, provided he returns within the month. Fares from Euston to 
Lakes of Killarney are 115s. 1st class, 95s. 2nd class, via Holy- 
ie Giant's Causeway, 63s. and 50s., via Fleetwood; 90s. 
and 3 harne. For Lough Erne, 96s. and 76s., via Fleetwood; 

115s. a: s. via Lame. Tourists from Dublin only can obtain 

supplemental tickets for the north, or Killarney, at the offices of the 
different rl 

land is becoming well supplied with railways, which have already 
effected incalculable good, and, as they increase, are likely to effect still 
more, by bringing fresh capital into the country, by cheapening the 
carriage of all marketable and agricultural produce, and by opening 
up what were formerly wild and unfrequented districts, to the ap- 
proaches of civilisation — breaking down the barriers of prejudice and 
ignorance, and bringing the inhabitants of the two sister isles into 
3er intercourse, to which even the narrow-minded rancour fostered 
by party big< ts must yield in course of time. The lines at present 
running through the country are : — 

1. The Great Southern and Western, from Dublin to Cork, a distance 
of 166 miles, embracing in its system branches t<> Carlow, Athl< 
Parsonstown, Nenagh, Tralee, and Fermoy. Jn addition this company 



xlii v. Travelling View. In trod. 

subsidises and works the lines of the Irish Sonth-Eastern from Carlow 
to Kilkenny and Hallyw illiam ; also the direct Cork and Limerick, 
from Charleville to Limerick. 

2. The Midland Great Western is next in length and importance, 
connecting Dublin with Galway, and intersecting Ireland right through 
the centre. Its branches are to Cavan, SiigQ, Clara, Tuam, and West- 
port ; the last named, which starts from Athlone, helongs to the North- 
ern and Western Company, although worked by the Midland; while 
partly working with it, though governed by a different company, is 
(3) the Dublin and Meath Eailway, branching off from Olonsilla and 
running to Navan and Kells. 

4. The Irish North-Eastern runs from Dundalk to Enniskillen, and 
from thence to Londonderry. The branches are generally short and 
unimportant, viz. to Cootehill, Cavan (via Clones), Fintona, Stranorlar 
(via the Finn Valley), and from Omagh to Dungannon, where it meets 
a branch of 

5. The Ulster line, which mainly connects Belfast with Portadown, 
sending off divergences from thence to Armagh, Monaghan, and Clones, 
as well as to Dungannon and Banbridge. 

6. The Dublin and Drogheda rly. connects those two towns, and 
gives off a branch to Howth, and one to Navan, Kells, and Oldcastle. 

7. Between Drogheda and Portadown is the Dublin and Belfast 
Junction, which thus completes the link between those two cities. It 
has only one short branch to Banbridge. 

8. From Belfast northw T ard is the Northern Counties, which runs 
partly along the coast to Londonderry, giving off branches to Carrick- 
fergus, Piandalstown, Newtownlimavaddy, and Portrush. Working in 
connection with the Carrickfergus branch is (9) a short line to Lame, 
from whence a steamer plies to Stranraer. 

10. From Deny also runs the Lough S willy line to Buncrana, by which 
the tourist can visit Bathmelton and the district on the shores of the Lough. 

11. The Belfast and County Down provides for the traffic to Dona- 
ghadee and Downpatrick, with short subsidiary lines to Ballynahinch, 
Hollywood, and Bangor. 

12. While in this district we must not forget to mention the line from 
Newry to Armagh, and (13) the little Warrenpoint andNewry Railway. 

14. The Dublin and Wicklow lines have two rlys. out of Dublin — 
one from Harcourt-street to Bray direct, the other by the coast through 
Kingstown and Killarney ; the main rly. running from Bray to Wicklow 
and Enniscorthy, from whence an extension is being made to Wexford. 
A short branch runs from Wooden Bridge to Shillelagh. 

15. The Waterford and Limerick Co. accommodates these two 
cities, crossing the Southern and Western at Limerick Junction; and 
the same directorate provides for the management of (16) the Waterford 
and Kilkenny, (17) Limerick and Ennis, (18) Limerick and Foynes, 
and (lij) Limerick, Killaloe, and Nenagh lines. 

2(j. The little Tramore Railway carries the citizens of Waterford to 
their ba thin sr-ra ach i n es. 

A line has just been opened from Cork to Maeroofn, passing through JBallincoliig, 



Introd. v. Travelling View. Jtliii 

The only remaining ones are (21) the Cork and Youghal, with a 
inch to Queenstown : (22) Cork and Passage, a suhurbaD short rail- 
w;i I miles ; and (23) the Cork and Bandon lines, the latter sendi 
otT a branch to Kin sale. 

In addition to these a large number are projected, some of which will 
>bably be "faits accom] lis," while the greater part will tall into oblivion, 
some features in which Irish differ from English rlys.' of 
which the most striking are the enormous distances between the sta- 
ll (in tin- \V. and S.) the comparatively thin population all 
nnd, which makes the traveller who is accustomed to the crowded 
traffic and numerous stations of the English lines wonder what there can 
iri the country t<> sup] ort a rly. There is also an absence of mineral 
-. which are the great Bupport of manufacturing district lines. It 
remarked that the lines in Ireland are made much 
than in England from the decreased value of the land, added 
the general rate of travelling is very much slower, and the 

QUI - I SS. 

inland navigation scarcely affects the tourist one way or another, 
baf Id n<»t ho right to pass it over altogether on that account. 

1. . Royal Canal connects the Shannon with the Irish Channel, 

and U m. in length, starting from Dublin, and ending at Termon- 

1 ■ • 5 mnon. The summit-level is 322 ft. above the sea, and 

from Lough Owel, near Mullingar. A branch is sent off from 

rd. 

1 anal also starts from Dublin, and runs to the Shannon 

d Harbour, sending off branches to Ballinasloe, Naas, Athy, 

tarlin_ r tnn, and Kill i, the total length heins 160 m.* 

; ' anal connects Lough Neagh by the Blackwater with 

U] Lough Erne, ssing by Monaghan and Clones. 

mmunic with the Grand Canal at Athy is the Barrow Navi- 

unning | irlow, Bag< nalstown, and Borris, to the s< a at Boss. 

extends from Drogheda to Slane by the 
rr id thi .in by canal. 

anal con mences at Fathom, below Newry, and ends 
at P wn, wh< the Bann, and so to Lough Neagh. 

Tyrone Navigation connects Lough Neagh by the Blackwater 
I, near Dungannon, 
8. Ti il accommodates Belfast and Lisburn, and affords 

a v vav to Loimh N> agh. 

S annon is navigable from Lough Allen to Limerick, a dis- 
143 m. ; a portion of which, between Killaloe and Athlone, is 
sr- for and is partly employed in the use of steamers. It is to 

wever, that such an interesting route is not better 

1 rrib is now well supplied with appliances, as a 
•ween Galway and Cong. 



• For | a on this lin<. in Conner day?, the tourist should 

-uit ' Jack Hint*.: 



xliv V. Travelling View. Tntrod. 

11. A steamer also plies on Lough Erne between Enniskillen and 
Belleek. 

Where the rail has not yet penetrated, the land is well supplied with 
coaches or public cars, the times and seasons of which will be found in 
the monthly lily. Guide. The Irish car is such a peculiar and charac- 
teristic institution that it will not be amiss to give a brief sketch of the 
author of the system, Mr. Charles Bianconi, of Long-field, near Cashel. 
A native of Milan, he arrived in Ireland about 1800, and set up in 
Clonmel as a picture-dealer. He was early struck with the want of 
accommodation that existed between the various towns of the district, 
and brooded over the idea until, having saved some money, he deter- 
mined to try and supply some of the deficiency by starting his first car 
in 1815 between Clonmel and Cahir. The foresight and the pluck 
evinced in this proceeding was wonderful in those days, when locomotion 
was not the necessity that it is now, and has long ere this reaped its just 
reward. Although meeting with many reverses, and — what is worse in 
the trial of a new scheme — with much indifference, people gradually be- 
gan to make use of this solitary conveyance, until its owner was encouraged 
to run others to Limerick and Thurles. Since then the system has taken 
deep root, and, until the spread of railways, was the grand artery of 
communication over all the length and breadth of the land. A few 
years ago, before the engine had knocked some of the road conveyances 
off, Mr. Bianconi had in his establishment upwards of 45 double ears, 
travelling over 3600 miles daily. It is satisfactory to relate that his 
perseverance and spirit has been rewarded as it deserved, and that he is 
still looked upon, in the character of a country gentleman, as one of 
Ireland's greatest benefactors. 

The greater number of the roads are serviced by cars instead of 
coaches, and there is no doubt but that the long car is better suited to 
the country than the coach. Its advantages are that it holds a great 
many, in addition to a fabulous quantity of luggage that is deposited 
in the well ; moreover, accidents can rarely happen on account of the 
even balance afforded by the passengers ; and should such occur, the 
traveller, unless he be blind or halt, can at once reach the ground with 
a very moderate amount of risk. Its disadvantages are, that there are 
no inside places for bad weather or delicate passengers. The following 
hints are worth attending to previous to a journey on a car. Ascertain 
which way the wind is blowing, if the weather is cold or likely to be bad, 
and choose your side accordingly, as the tourist will find it no slight 
comfort to hear the rain beating on the other side while the well and 
the luggage shelter him. Aprons are provided in the car ; at the same 
time, a private waterproof apron is a great convenience; added to 
which, the traveller should obtain a strap by which he may buckle 
himself to the seat during night journeys, and thus go safely to sleep 
without fear of being jerked forward. For seeing the view, the driver's 
box is, of course, the " post of vantage," but it is not comfortable, 
and cannot be recommended for a long journey. In conclusion, a 
good word should be said for the drivers of the Bianconi cars, who are, 
with scarcely an exception, steady, obliging, and civil men, and plea- 



In trod. V. Travelling Viae. xlv 

t companions to boot. Indeed, it may be acknowledged with truth, 

that the traveller in Ireland, as a general rale, meets with ready and 

cheerful civility: and, tor the comfort of those who sit at home and 

1 the accounts of those unfortunate agrarian outrages, that it is a 

rare occurrence to hear of any stranger being molested in any way 

— i fact which seems to arise more from the native politeness of 1 

Irish character than from love o\ the Saxon. Over cross-roads and in 

vet unaccommodated with public conveyances, the traveller 

Idom have difficulty in obtaining a one-horse car. Posting is much 

cheaper in Inland than in England, cars being rarely more than 6d. a 

mile"' 3on, and 8d. for two, although in some tourists' districts 

th( wners have raised their tariff rather higher. In addition to this, 

io turnpikes to be paid— all the roads being kept (and very 

) by a county fund. Before engaging the car, particular 

|uiries should' he made' as to the distance, and whether it is com- 

English miles, as in some districts they charge for 
, while in the W. and X.W. the distances are Irish. In a long 

lerahle difference, for 4 English statute mi 
s. All the distances in the Handbook are given in 
. as it is calculate the difference, and, moreover, 

rowing tendency to assimilate them to the English measnre, 
which will, no doubt, ><><.n pervade the entire country. 

A • v hints may he useful to the tourist. Never give to beggars. 

Win ' ir or coach stops, swarms of impudent mendicants rise 

i if by magic, and try which can excel the other in noisy whining 

d fak To give to these is simply wrong, for they are mostly 

irs by choice, and not from necessity. If work were offered to 

would in all probability refuse it— preferring to lead a life 

of idleness to honest labour. The tonrist may well wonder 

r in the social laws, or to what misplaced soft-heartedness 

in tl a of the civic rulers, these intolerable nuisances owe their 

:itinuan< 

ul how yon engacrc yourself in any discussion or opinion on 
ilarly religion-, subjects. The traveller will Boon 
fii. r himself that party spirit attains a pitch which is unknown 

in and : that extreme statements are in many districts the rule 

an ptiou ; and that a dispassionate and unprejudiced 

f a national subject is not always to be obtained. 
Tl tores of Ireland are unfortunately so mixed up with 

politi es, that the tourist had better make his own observations on 

them, and keep them to himself. He will find much to admire, espe- 
illy in t! spitality and warm-heartedness which seem to be every 

mmai ' ht. lie will also find some things to condemn ; 

it he cannot fail to return home interested in Ireland's social ] 
gress, and with an earnest hope that she will some day thoroughly 
and trul I the real Love that England has for her, and that the I 

ie in time t<» consider that " repale from the Sassenach" would 
be the worst thing that could happen to him. 



xlvi vi. Antiquities. In trod. 



VI. — Antiquities. 

In the matter of antiquarian remains, Ireland is a Tadmor or a 
Nineveh, For throughout the length and breadth of the land, ruins of. 
some sort or other are scattered in melancholy profusion, and scarce 
a barony or parish but has its castle, abbey, church, round tower, or, 
may be, still more primitive and early remains. 

Under these circumstances, the traveller must not be surprised at 
meeting a considerable resemblance to each other in the different ruins, 
remembering that each marks an era when a particular style of building 
was prevalent. 

Irish antiquities cannot be divided better than has been done by 
Mr. Wakeman, in his excellent little Handbook (the only fault of which 
is its brevity), viz. : Pagan, Early Christian, and Anglo-Irish remains. 

I. Pagan may be subdivided into — 

1. Religions — 

a. Sepulchral — such as Cromlechs, Caves, Mounds, and Cairns. 

b. Memorial — Pillars, Steles, Inscribed Stones. 

2. Military — Raths, Forts, &c. 

a. The Cromlech, about which there has been much discussion with 
reference to its use, would appear to have been used as a sepulchral 
monument in the dark ag;es antecedent to the Christian era ; since fre- 
quent discoveries, made at different times, strongly militated against the 
formerly received opinion that they were used for sacrificial purposes. A 
singular feature in the cromlechs, and one which seems to have been 
generally overlooked, is their usual position, overlooking or very near 
to the sea ; cromlechs in the interior of the country being compara- 
tively uncommon. The same peculiarity is noticeable in the crom- 
lechs of North and South Wales. In Ireland there are some fine speci- 
mens, though few that have not suffered from the hand of time or still 
more from ruthless destruction. Amongst these may be mentioned the 
cromlechs of Mount Venus, Howth, and Shanganagh, near Dublin; 
Broadstone, near Ballymena ; Kilclooney, near Narin, co. Donegal ; 
the cromlechs on island Magee and co. Antrim, and at Knockeen, co. 
WaterforcL 

Tumuli. — Monuments of this class abound in Ireland, from the 
simple cairn, which is common, to the rare and magnificent barrow, 
on which every species of barbarous ornamentation was lavished. 
The line of tumuli running from Drogheda to Slane, of which New- 
grange and Dowth are the principal, are in themselves worth a pilgrim- 
to see, and cannot fail to strike the beholder with astonishment at 
the wonderful skill with which the interior is constructed, and with 
the ingenuity and taste of the carving on the stones. The Pagan Irish 
looked upon the sepulture of their kings and heroes as the most im- 
portant and venerable rite. They appear to have interred the body in 
both a horizontal and perpendicular position, or else to have performed 



Introd. vi. Antiquities. xlvii 

incremation. "The small square stone grave, or kistvaen, containing 
single cinerary urn, placed beneath the surface of the soil and so fre- 
quently exposed by the spade ; the collection of urns, apparently marking 

site of an ancient cemetery, possibly that of a battlefield ; the grassy 
»und and the massive cromlech breaking the level outline of the land- 
pe : the large stone circle, or the oblong enclosure, popularly termed 
ut's _ ■ ••;' the huge temple-like barrow, with its enveloping 
und of Btones or earth (the Western type of the true Oriental 
pyramid) : the simple, rude pillar-stone ; the Ogham-inscribed mono- 
lith or I sculptured cross; the wayside monument; the horizontal 
si oe : the stone coffin ; the modern vault or stately mausoleum ; 
the carved recumbent figure in the decorated abbey, as well as the 
dern tablet in the modern church, all afford abundant examples of 
the US - ne materials in sepulchral and funeral rites, and evince 

iety and reverence with which the dead were regarded in Ireland 
from the very earliest time." — Wi/'/f's Catalogue of H. I. A. Of 

r the purpose of holding the ashes of the dead, beautiful 
s ar<- to 1 - q in the Academy Museum in Dublin, ornamented 
:li most cunning workmanship. The usual position of these urns, 
I, has been in small kists or churches. The tumulus, or 
urn, like that at Newgrange, is of a different order of sepulture, 
sists a large cavern, which contained one or more sarcophagi, 
and wore probably also the receptacles of treasure. The Danes wee 
is opinion, as we read of their having broken open the 
G bhan's wife at Drochat-atha, now Drogheda, a.d. 862. 
81 me circles and avenues are not uncommon, and are sometimes found 
d with sepulchral mounds, and at others apparently isolated. In 
- . they were evidently used for marking with greater effect 
- cred enclosure, as is the case at Newgrange, where the circle sur- 
round tumulus; in the latter case, however, it is probable that 
- \ to consecrate some spot to which unusual reverence was 
i reli or judicial associations: such as the Giant's Eing 
-; circles and raths in Hazlewood demesne, co. 
y Bill, near Raphoe ; Slieve na Griddle, near Down- 
:. An example of a burying-ground on a large scale will be found 
m, in co. Roscommon, one of the cemeteries celebrated 
equally with those of the Boyne district. Detached and isolated graves, 
ularly spoken of as giant's "beds," are far from uncommon : ex- 
ay 1 e found at Lough ( Jur. 

ial. — Pillars were used from the earliest times to mark the 
place of interment or to commemorate some deed. In these cases th< y 

les ; hut when they were used, as in Wales, for the 

boundary or division, they were called " maen-hir, " long 

They were more generally plain, though sometimes inscribed 

f the | * ^sr.Ti to whose memory it was erected. Of this 

amon am stones, the elucidation of which has been 

y with antiquari . 

" The I .i alphal I rists of lines or groups of lines, variously 



xlviii VI. Antiquities. Introd. 

arranged with reference to a single stave-line or to an edge of the sub- 
stance on which they are traced. The spectator looking at an upright 
Ogham monument will, in general, observe groups of incised strokes of 
four different kinds: — 1. Groups of lines to the left ; 2. Others to the 
right; 3. Other longer strokes, crossing it obliquely; and 4. Small 
l) 'tches upon the edge itself. The inscriptions, in general, begin from 
bottom, aud are read upwards from left to right. Almost all those 
which have been deciphered present merely a proper name, with its 
patronymic, both in the genitive case. The monuments appear for the 
most part to have been sepulchral in the first instance, fiut there is 
reason to suppose that they were used to indicate the proprietorship 
of land ; either standing as boundary stones, or buried in crypts as 
evidences to be referred to in cases of dispute arising. By far the 
greater number discovered in Ireland have been found in Cork and 
Kerry graves." 

2. Defensive and Social. — The ancient Irish lived after a very no- 
madic fashion ; in the summer retiring to their "booleys," or summer 
habitations, with their flocks and herds, and in winter returning to 
their entrenched villages and forts. Their houses were either of wood, 
wattles, clay, or stone, and in this latter case were termed cashels, or 
cabins, which, however, signifies properly the collection or enclosure of 
dwellings, the houses themselves being designated as cloghans. The 
best localities for examining these remains are in West Connaugtfit 
(A mm Islands) and co. Kerry, particularly in the Dingle promontory. 
Nor should we omit the singular stockaded islands called Crannoges, 
which were always found in districts where clusters of lakes were 
grouped together. From their difficulty of access, they were more 
likely places to which the owner might take his plunder in security 
than regular habitations. Examples may be seen in the Museum of 
the Royal Irish Academy. 

The number of raths or fortified villages that still remain, notwith- 
standing the thousands that must have been swept away as the im- 
provements of agriculture extended over the country is something 
incredible, as may be easily seen by inspecting the Ordnance map, in 
which the locality of each is carefully preserved. They were always a 
mound made of earth and surrounded by a breastwork, and in many 
c ises by a ditch as well. They varied in extent from a few perches to 
more than an acre, according to the number and rank of the inhabitants. 
Some of the larger raths were celebrated in the early annals of Irish 
history, and were used for the accommodation of chieftains and even of 
royal personages. Among this latter class are the Hills of Tarn, 
Tailtean, and Tlachtgha, in Meath ; Grianan ofAileach, in Donegal; 
Emania, or Fort Navan, near Armagh, &c. " Of the number of raths 
that we have examined, we have not in one instance known the mound 
to contain a chamber : but when the work consisted merely of a circular 
enclosure, excavations of a beehive form, lined with uncemented stones, 
and connected by passages sufficiently large to admit a man, are not 
uufrequentfy found. These chambers were probably used as places of 



In trod. vj. Ardiquitfa, xlix 

mporary retreat, or as storehouses for corn, &c. ; the want of any 

Dtilation, save that derived from the narrow external ent ranee, 

rendering them unfit tor the continued habitation of man." — Wakeman. 

- o\ these subterranean chambers are to be found at ('lady, on 
j ae, and mar Navan. The dun or cathair waa a more ambitions 

a purely military work, built of unoemented stones, and varying 

much in the complexity and amount of defensive walls. The locale 

• - works is in the west and south-west of Ireland, where they 

n in wonderful preservation: for example, Dunsengus and 

Dunconnor, in the Isle of Arran. "To each of these torts, called raths, 

s, cabins, or cahirs, were attached names which with 

modifications have descended to modern times, such as Dunaengus, 

Dunden . Dunmore, Dungannon, Dunboyne, Dunlavin, Dundealgan 

Dundalk) ; Lismore and Listowel; Rathcormaok, Rathcore, 

sjhan, Rathowen : Cahir, Cahir-conlick, &c. Many of these forts 

iwnlands, which, with other topographical a]»]»ellations, 

I to us for at least 2000 years/' — Gatal. of Acad. 

- YV. Wilde. 

•i exam] >le of a fort in Ireland, and probably in 

the known world, we must recommend the tourist to visit the Staigue 

in co. Kerry (lite. 35), a model of which is to be found in the 

II. — I d 'stian remains may be divided into Oratories, Round 

. Churches, and ( sses. 

1. Tl B, or " duintheach," were originally built of wood, in 

action to the church or " daimhliag," a house of stone. But 

alt i wood appears to have been the original material out of which 

th< re built, they were subsequently made of stone, and from their 

small and peculiar features are among the most characteristic 

lb remains. The average measurement was about 15 

• in i by L0 in breadth ; and many were built without 

r the private devotions of the founders, 
cells - are so frequently observed in the immediate 

ibourhood. The most singular of these are in the west and south- 
Ireland, and are generally in sequestered and sometimes almost 
ssibl s. Examples are found in St. Senan's, at Scattery 

- Island, near Kilkee ; on High Island, off Conne- 
nia very singular and beautiful oratory of St. Gallerus, 

ir Dingle; oratory of St. Finan Cam, on Church Island, Lough 
A striking diarity in many of these buildings is the use of 

med roof, formed by the gradual approximation of stones laidhori- 
. -id closed at the top by a single stone. Dr. Petrie is inclined 
the cl f " duintheach " the larger buildings, which com- 

bined thi y and the dwelling, and which are styled " houses" or 

M dormitories," and usually an apartmenl or crofl between the 

of and the carved roof of the oratory. <M such arc the dor- 
mituiies of St. Declan, at Ardmore; St. Molaise's House on Devonian ; 



1 VI. Antiquities.* Introcl. 

St. Colomb's House at Kells ; St. Kevin's at Glendalough ; St. Flan- 
nan's at Killaloe. 

2. Round Towers have been deeply and fully discussed and illus- 
trated in Dr. Petrie's admirable work ' On the Origin and Uses of the 
Round Towers of Ireland,' a work with which every traveller in 
Ireland should provide himself, and of which the writer of this Hand- 
book has largely made use. It will suffice now to give a very brief 
outline of what the towers were considered by different antiquaries to 
have been, and what they are, with every appearance of probability, 
proved not to have been. 

a. They were supposed to have been erected by the Danes : a theory 
originally brought forward by John Lynch, the author of ' Cambrensis 
Eversus,' and followed by Walsh. Molyneux, and Sedgwick. 

b. Their Phoenician, Persian, or Indo-Scythian origin, was advocated 
warmly by General Yallancey, who considered them to have been fire- 
temples, — places from which to proclaim the Druidic festivals, gnomons, 
or astronomical observatories, Phallic emblems, or Buddhist temples. 
These opinions, embracing what is called the Pagan doctrine of the 
Pound Towers, were afterwards followed by O'Brien, Lanigan, Miss 
Beaufort, and Mr. Windele. 

The Christian origin and uses were successively declared to be — 

a. Anchorite towers, in imitation of the pillar of St. Simon Stylites: 
an cpinion broached by Dean Richards, and followed by Harris, Milner, 
and King. 

b. Penitential prisons : a theory advocated by Dr. South. 

The opinions which Dr. Petrie has so ably argued out, and which are 
now generally received, are that the round towers were designed for the 
double purpose of belfries and castles : for, if they had been erected for 
belfries only, there would have been no necessity for making the door- 
ways so small or so high from the ground ; and if they had been 
intended for castles only, they need not have been so slender or so 
high. The following is the summary of his results. With respect to 
belfries : — 

1 . It is most certain that the Irish ecclesiastics had from a very 
early period, in connexion with their cathedral and abbey churches, 
campanilia, or detached belfries, called in the Irish annals and other 
ancient authorities by the term " cloictheach " (clo]5 / 6e4c). 

2. It is equally certain that in all parts of Ireland where the Irish 
language is yet retained, these towers are designated by the same term, 
except in a few districts, where they are called by the synonymous 
term " clogar " (clo^x), or by the term " cuiltheach" (cu^te^c), 
which is only a corrupted form of " cloictheach" by a transposition of 
letters very usual in modern Irish words. 

3. It is also certain that no other building, either round or square, 
suited to the purpose of a belfry, has ever been found in connexion 
with any church of an age anterior to the 12th century, with the single 
exception of the square belfry attached to a church on Inis Clothran, or 
Clovin, an island in Lough Ree, and which seems to be of earlier date. 



Li trod. vi. Antiquities. li 

4. Lastly, it is certain that this use is assigned to them by the 
uniform tradition of the whole people of [reland, and thai they are 

appropriated to this use in many parts of the country even to this day. 
Their intended use for castles as well as belfries must he inferred — 

1. From some of the peculiarities found almost invariably in their 
struction, and particularly in their small doorways placed at so great 

a height from the ground : an obvious mode of securing safety which is 
anion in ancient castles. 

2. Many o( the remaining doorways of the towers exhibit abundant 
evidences o( their having been provided with double doors. 

3. An examination of our ancient literature tends strongly to the 
conclusion that the Irish people so generally recognised this use of the 
round towers as a primary one, that they very rarely applied to a tower 
erected for defence any other term but that of cloictheach or belfry. 

4. It may be clearly inferred from several records in the Irish 
annals that the towers were used for the purposes of a fety and defence. 

Although history gives the foundation of a round tower in the 6th 

century, Dr. Petrie shows that the majority of them were erected about 

• 9th and 10th centuries ; and there is no doubt that, owing to 

destructive ravages of the Danes, the reconstruction of many 

towers was rendered necessary, and that they consequently show various 

of masonry and differences of materials, according to the times 

and circumstances of their restoration. To some towers, as the Great 

wer of Clonmachnois, he ascribes a date of the 12th century. 

It : Hess, in this place, to give a description of the towers, as in 

ry locality where they are found the peculiar points of each are 

tail. 

3. Early Churches of Ireland were usually, if not always, built of 

and lime cement, and were invariably of small size, rarely exceed- 

BO 1 nd usually not more than GO feet. The only exception 

d church of Armagh, which was 140 feet in length. 

In form they are a simple quadrangle, in larger churches extending 

_ which forms the chancel. The peculiar features are 
- and windows, the sides of which almost always incline, 
framed with a certain amount of Cyclopean masonry. The 
crowned by a horizontal lintel, or headed with a semi- 
circular arch, which is sometimes cut out of a single stone. The roofs, 
when- they remain, are of exceedingly high pitch. 

u In short these ancient temples are just such humble, unadorned 
structures, as we might expect them to have been; but even if they 

found to exhibit less of that expression of congruity and fitn< 
and more of that humbleness so characteristic of a religion not made for 
the rich hut for the poor and lowly, that mind is hut little to be envied 
>uld look with apathy on the remains of national structures so 
lerable for their antiquity. 

date are extremely interesting in their archi- 

tural features, arising from the proof thai anterior to the 1 1 1 1 1 cent., 

the Irish not only built decorated chs., but used a style of decoration 

[Ireland.'] c 



lii VI. Antiquities, In trod. 

which was generally supposed to be characteristic of the Norman period. 
We sec in the ornamentation of the Round Tower of Kildare — the 
tower at Timahoe — the chs. at Rahin — some of the chs. at Glenda- 
lough — the ch. of Killeshin — Teampull Fingain at Clonmacnoise — -the 
ch.at Inishcalthra — the ch. at Freshford — the stone-roofed ch. at Cashel 
— some of the most exquisite sculpturing in the moulding of the door- 
ways, the capitals of the arches, the reredos, &c. " Chevron and other 
decorations, which in England are supposed to indicate the Norman 
period, are commonly found ; but they are generally simple lines cut 
upon the face and soffit of the arch. Pediments now appear ; and the 
various mouldings and other details of doorways become rich and 
striking, and in some respect bear considerable analogy to true Norman 
work. The capitals frequently represent human heads, the hair of 
which is interlaced with snakelike animals." — Wakeman. 

4. Crosses exhibit every degree of diversity from the rude cross with- 
out any ornament whatever — save, perhaps, that the upper part of the 
shaft is cut in the form of a circle from which the arms and top extend 
— to the elaborately sculptured crosses of the dates between the 9th and 
12th cent. Many of them are valuable for two reasons; the extreme 
beauty of the sculptures, and because they give an accurate representa- 
tion of the costumes, ecclesiastical and military, of the Irish during th- 
9th and 10th cent., as in the case of the magnificent crosses of Monase 
terboice and Clonmacnoise. Inscribed flagstones were numerous, but 
have become to a great degree destroyed and defaced in the lapse of 
time. They generally consist of a plain cross rudely marked on the 
stone, together with the name of the person whom it is intended to me- 
morialise. It is also worth notice that the priests were usually buried 
with their face towards the congregation. 

5. Anglo-Norman Remains date from the time of the invasion by 
the English, who may have brought into the country their own styles 
of architecture, which became transplanted and acclimatised. " Certain 
it is that the close of the 12th and the beginning of the 13th cent, wit- 
nessed a great change in the style of architecture as applied to ecclesi- 
astical edifices in Ireland ; but that this change was in consequence of 
the invasion, or that the Pointed style was borrowed from or introduced 
into Ireland by the English, has not been ascertained." As might be 
expected, a great similarity exists in the plans of nearly all the abbeys 
in Ireland, which are generally cruciform, with aisles, transepts, nave, 
and chancel, and a slender tower rising from the intersection. Of the same 
date, and erected, under the same circumstances, are the greater portion of 
the Irish castles, which vary from the single keep- tower of the predatory 
chieftain to the defensive fortresses of Tuam and Roscommon, or the 
modernised castles of Malahide and Kilkenny. Of walls and gateways 
a good many remains are left, and from the style of their building and 
the history of the place, we know that they occupy the same date as 
the castles. Athlone, Drogheda, Londonderry, Clonmel, Wexford, all 
furnish good examples. The traveller is referred to the following 
Compendium of remains that are described in the Handbook. 



In trod. 



VI. Antiquities. 



1 



in 



u At no period of their history were the people of Ireland either, so 
settled or prosperous as to he enabled to undertake the erection of any 

at ecclesiastical buildings such as are found everywhere in (J real 
Britain, from Kirkwall to Cornwall. The cathedral of Dublin must 
always have been a second-class edifice for a metropolitan church, and 
those oi Cashel and Kildare are neither so large nor so richly orna- 
mented as many English parish churches. The same is true with regard 
to the monasteries : they are generally small, though rich in detail. Some 
of them still retain their cloisters, which in all instances have so foreign 
an aspect as to he quite startling/' — Fergusson. 



Table of the most interesting Antiquarian Remains. 
The Figures refer to the Routes. 



Cromlechs. > 

12. Broadstone. 

4. Finn'.- Finger Stone. 
23. Glendruid. 

Howth, 
1 1 '. KilclcM >ney near Naran. 
23. Kilternan. 
] 8. Lough Gara. 
25. Lough Gur. 

1. Phoenix Park. 
23. Shankill. 
. Slieve Callane. 

Circles, Stones, &c. 

1 0. Bel tan v near Raphoe. 
Clonakilty. 

4. Clough More. 
Drips* y ( tgham). 

SI. Dun] < < >_ham). 

I rallerofl Pillar Stone. 

5. Giant's Rh 
ELem] S1 >ne& 
Kilmakedar. 
Kii rt. 

_ < -nr. 
Slieve na Griddle. 



5. 

3. 

4. 
32, Temple Geall. 

6 pulchrat). 
Ban t. 

15. D >w1 
_ 1 1 ■ ie la, 
K>. Knowth. 
15. Newgrang 

t ( tfiels, &c. 



32. Bishop's Island. 

16. St. Colmnb's, Kells. 

28. St. Declan's, Ardmore. 

37. St. Finbar, Gougane Barra. 

32. Gallerus, Smerwick. 

22. High Island. 

24. St. Kevin's, Glendalougli. 

32. Temple Geall. 

Baths and Mounds {with or without 
underground Passages), 

3. Cairn Bane. 
3. Cairn Coehy, 
15. Clady. *. 

3. Crown Bridge. 
5. Donaghadee. 

4. Downpatriek. 
3. Druibh Mor. 

17. Emania. 

3. Paughart Hill. 

i . Grianan of Aileach. 
2.5. Kiliinane. 

29, Li si n ore. 

26. Moat of Ardscull. 
J <. Moat of Granard. 
26, Mullaghahmast. 

4. Slieve Croob. 

15. Tara, 

16. Tailtean. 

17. Tomb of Xial Caillc 

Forte, Dim*, dec. 
35. Ballycarbry. 
CaherdanieL 
20. Duhh Oahir. 
20. Duhh Oathair. 
20. Dun .Lngus. 



li 



IV 



VI. Antiquities, 



Id trod. 



20. Dun Connor. 


25. 


Oughterarde. 


25. Dun Ailline. 


16. 


Rathmore. 


20. Dun Onaght. 


32. 


Rattoo. 


3. Lisnagade ^and Dane's Cast). 


27. 


Roscrea. 


25. Lough Gur. 


27. 


Seir Kyran. 


35. Miltown. 


8. 


Sligo. 


10. Naran. j 


20. 


Teampul Breeain. 


20. Oghill. 


20. 


Teampul Chiarain. 


35. Staigue. 


20. 


Teampul Mic Duach. 


35. Templenakill. 


20. 


Teampul Patrick. 


Churches* 






17. Abbeylara. 


Abbeys, Monasteries, and < 


18. Asselyn. 


32. 


Ardfert. 


31. Aghadoe. 


28. 


Ardmore. 


21. Annaghdowcu 


25. 


Ai'dpatrick. 


28. Ardmore. 


17. 


Armagh. 


12. Banagker. 


32. 


Adare. 


15. St. Bernards. 




Trinitarian Abbey. 


37. Carrigaline. 




Augustinian. 


15. Cannistown. 




Franciscan. 


13. Carrickfergus. 


32. 


Askeaton. 


34. Clonruacnoise. 


14. 


Athenry. 


30. Olonmel. 


30. 


Athassel. 


15. Donaghmore. 


21. 


Ballintober, 


16. Dona ghpa trick. 


18. 


Ballymote. 


2. St. Doulough's. 


15. 


Ballybogan. 


33. Dysert. 


29. 


Ballynatray. 


6. Enniskillen. 


15. 


Bective. 


18. St. Feckan's, Fore. 


13. 


Bonamargey. 


2. St. Fintan's. 


18. 


Boyle. 


27. Freshford. 


22. 


Burrishoole. 


3. St. Flannan's, Killaloe. 


25. 


Buttevant. 


24. Glendalough. 


4. 


Carlingford. 


3. Glynn. 


25. 


Cashel. 


20. Galway (St. Nicholas). 




Hore Abbey. 


34. Iniscalthra. 




Dominican. 


37. Iniscurra. 


26. 


Castle Dermot. 


31. Inisfallen. 


33. 


Clare. 


6. Iniskeen. 


28. 


Clare. 


21. Inismaan. 


21. 


Claregalway. 


2. Kilbarrock. 


28. 


Clonmines. 


15. Kilcarn. 


21. 


Cong. 


33. Kilfenora. ■ 


25. 


Gt. Conell. 


2(j. Killeshin. 


33. 


Corcumroe. 


24. Killiney. 


37. 


Cork {St. Finbar). 


33. Killone. 


19. 


Deerane. 


33. KilmacduagL. 


7. 


Deny. 


32. Kilternan. 


6. 


Devenish. 


36. Kiusale. 




Donegal. 


20. St. Macclara, 


1. 


Dublin. 


2. Monasterboice. 




Christ Ch. 


2. St. Nessan. 


1 


St. Patrick's. 



Introd. 



VI. Antiquities. 



Iv 



16. Doleek 

Dunbrody. 
28. Dungarvan, 
12. Dnngiven. 

4. Downpatrick. 

2. Drogheda. 

B Mary DTJrso, 
Dominican. 

3. Dtmdalk. 
. Ennis. 

Ferns. 
iv Fore. 
*J'.'. Glanworth. 

24. Glendalongh. 

5. Gn y. 

25. Holycross. 
2. Howth. 

4. Inch. 
Jerpoint 

14. KilconnelL 
Kilcrea, 
Kildare. 

19. Killala. 
34. Killaloe. 
Eilmallock. 

Dominican Priory. 

17. Kilmore. 

11. Killydonnell. 

10. Kilmacrenan. 

Kilkenny. 

St. Canioc. 

Black Abbey. 

1 1 miniean. 

B kmoy. 

Limerick, 
I j-luea. 

•ii. 
M oister. 
Mellifont 

M T. 

M 

Mungret. 

30. Mil.": 

Multifarnham. 

15. N n Trim. 
34. Portumna, 

in. 
Rahin. 

itnkeale, 
Rhii Tew. 
ercon. 



3G. Roscarkory. 
19. Roscommon. 

19. Roeerk. 

21. Ross. 

4. Sank 
15. Slane. 

St. Erc's Hermitage. 
8. Sligo. 
3G. Timoleague. 
28. Tintern. 

20. Toombeola. 
15. Trim. 

Dominican. 

33. Tnam. 

23. Wexford. 

Selsker. 
28. Yonghai 

Dominican Friars. 

Bound Towers. 

31. Agliadoe. 
25. Ardpatrick. 
20. Ardkyne. 
13. Armoy. 

12. Antrim. 

"21. Augkagower. 

28. Arc! more. 

22. Rails, 

17. Belturbet 

25. CasheL 

26. Castle Dermot 
6. Clones. 

1. Clondalkin. 

34. Clonmacnoise, 
37. Cloyne. 

6. Devonian. 
15. Donaghmore. 

2. Droiniskin. 
8. Drumcliffi, 

5. Drambo. 
"32. Dysert. 

33. Dysert O'Dea. 

24. Glendalongh. 

34. Iniscalthra. 

32. Eniseatteiy. 

6. Iniskeen. 
Kilcullen, 

25. Kildare. 

26. Kilkenny, 
19. Killala. * 

Kilmaednagh, 
Kim 



lvi 



VI. Antiquities. 



In trod. 



36. Kiuncith. 
2. Lusk. 

2. Monasterboice. 
25. Oaghterarde. 

12. Ram's Island. 
32. Eattoo. 

27. Roscrea. 

->7. Seir Keyran. 

2. Swords. 
14. Taghadoe. 

25. Timahoe. 

3. Trummery. 

26. Tulloherin. 

Wells and Baptisteries. 

28. Ardmore. 

2. St. Doulough. 
2. Mellifont. 

Castles. 

32. Adare. 

37. Aghamarta. 
20. Ard. 

2. Ardee. 
30. Ardfinnan. 

4. Ardglass. 
20. Zrdkyne. 
22. Ardna glass. 

32. Askeaton. 
16. Athcarne. 

2. Athclare. 
14. Athenry. 

14. Athlone. 

15. Athlumney. 
26. Athy. 

4. Audley. 

20. Aughnanure. 

2. Baldangan. 

18. Ballinafad. 

18. Ballymote. 

36. Ballinaearrig. 

33. Ballyportry. 
2. Balrothery. 

37. Ballinacollig! 
36. Baltimore. 

7. Benburb. 
25. Blarney. 

32. Bruree. 

33. Bunratty. 

32. Camg-a-Gnnnell. 

33. Clare Castle. 
Cor. 

36. Castle Donovan. 



37. Castle Masters. 

15. Carbery. 

15. Castle Dexter. 

14. Castle Knock. 
13. Carrickfergus. 
37. Carrigadrohid. 

30. Cahir. 
26. Carlow. 

22. Clare Island. 

21. Claregalway. 
4. Carlingford. 

3. Castletown. 
1. Dublin. 

4. Dundrum. 

31. Dromaneen. 
31. Drishane. 

25. Dunamase. 

22. Doon. 

13. Dunseverick. 
11. Doe Castle. 

15. Donore. 

36. Domdaniel. 

1. Diimnagh. 

23. Enniscortby, 
23. Ferns. 

29. Glanworth. 
4. Greencastle. 

2. Howth. 

3. Hillsborough. 

20. Hag's Castle. 

21. Hen's Castle. 
31. Kanturk. 

4. Kilclief. 
4. Killyleagk 

26. Kilkenny. 
23. Kildare. 

8. Kilbarron. 

15. Kinnafad. 
33. Limerick. 
29. Lismore. 
26. Leighlin. 
25. Liscarroll. 
25. Lea. 

2. Lusk. 
21. Lough Mask. 
33. Liscannor. 

16. Liscarton. 
6. Monea. 

9. M'Swyne ? s. 

14. Maynooth. 

15. Mylerstown. 

37. Monkstown. 
21. Moyne. 



Intro 1. 



VI. Antiquities. 



,vu 



2. Malahide. 

\. Narrowwater. 

x astle. 
l:;. Old rfleet 
1 L < tranmore. 

I tola. 

19. Rindown. 
L9. R gcommon. 

Rinvyle. 
81. R 

27. R screa. 
•J-;. Rheban. 
16. Rathaldron. 

- • 

15. Scurloughstown. 

Strancally. 
21. Shrule. 

- rords. 

•_'. Termonfeckin. 

aple MichaeL 
5. Thurles. 
15. Trim. 
15. Ticroghan, 

Tully. 
& Termon M'Grath. 

Bridges. 

>. Cromahoo, Atliy. 

swell's Bridge. 
laiue. 
;ue. 
ixlip. 
1 ! v rbndg 

Limeiick. 

' i rmot. ' 
! . < mdalkin. 

21 « 

7. ( n :i. 

I • 
- Dm 

1. Pingl 

l 



16. Kells, 

25. Kilcullen. 

33. Kilfenora, 

2. Monasterboice. 

Id. Nevinstown. 

27. Roscrea, 

33. Tuam. 

17. Tynan. 

Walls. 

13. Oarrickfergus. 

7. Dcrry. 
2. Drogheda, 
30. Fethard, 

18. Fore. 
20, Galway. 

25. Kilmailook. 
23. Wexford. 

Gates. 

26. Athy. 

Preston's Gate. 

13. Carrickfergus. 
2. Drogheda. 

Butter Gate. 

St. Lawrence Gate. 
30. Fethard. 
18. Jamestown. 
25. Kilmallock. 

27. New Boss. 

14, St. Wolstan's. 

Mansions. 

25. Ardmayle. 

< ioppinger'fl Court. 

7. ( lastle 1 lanlfield. 

8. Duncnrbry. 

8. Donegal Ci^tle. 
20. Galway. 

Lynch's T Ton .so. 
Lombard Street Hoi 
Joyce's House. 

26. Inchmore. 
25. Loughmore. 

Kilmallock. 
C Manor Hamilton. 
28. XonghaL 

Sir W. Raleigh, 



lviii vu. Places of Interest* Introd. 

VII. Places of Interest. 

Dublin. — Carlisle Bridge. Four Courts. Custom House. South Wall. 
Bank. Exchange. Trinity College. Castle and Chapel. Christ Chureh. 
St. Patrick's. Royal Dublin Society's Museum. Royal Irish Academy. 
Milium of Irish Industry. St. Andrew's ch. St. Andrew's Cath. chapel. 
Phoenix Park. Zoological Gardens. Hibernian School. Kilmainham Hos- 
pital. Clondalkin Round Tower. Glasnevin Cemetery. Botanic Gardens. 
Dunsink Observatory. Castle Knock. Clontarf Castle. Bull Wall at 
Dollymount. Drimnagh Castle. Mount Anville. 

Kingstown. — Harbour. Monkstown Castle. Bullock Castle. Dalkey 
Island. Killiney Hill and Quarries. Killiney ch. 

Howth.—Yiew from Hill. Cromlech. Baily Lighthouse. St. Fintan's 
ch. Castle and Abbey. St. Doulough's Church and Well. Ireland's Eye. 
St. Nessan's ch. Killbarrock ch. 

Malahide. — Castle. Swords Castle and Round Tower. Lusk Round 
Tower. Baldangan Castle. Balrothery ch. 

Balbriggan. — Skerries. 

Drogheda. — Walls. West Gate. St. Lawrence's Gate. St. Mary's Abbey. 
Magdalene steeple. Rly. viaduct. Mound of the Tomb of Gobhan's wife. 
Mellifont Abbey. Monasterboice Round Tower, Church, and Crosses. 
Battlefield of the Boyne. Donore ch. Newgrange Tumulus. Dowth 
Tumulus. St. Bernard's ch. Athcarne Castle. Duleek Abbey. Maiden 
Tower. 

Castle BeU/ngham. — Ardee Castle. Miltown Castle. 

Dundalk. —Ch. R. C. chapel. Friary. Louth Abbey. Ravensdale. 
Iniskeen Church and Round Tower. 

Newry. — Crown Bridge Rath. Narrow Water Castle. Cairn Bane. 
Cairn Cochy. 

Warrenpoint.- — Drive to Rostrevor. Omeath. Carlingford Castle. Abbey. 
Tower. 

Rostrevor. — Kilbroney ch. Ascent of Slieve Ban. Cloughmore. Finn's 
Fingerstone. Greencastle. The Woodhouse. 

Kilkeel. — 

Newcastle. — Maggy's Leap. Armor's Hole. Donard Lodge. Ascent 
of Slieve Donard. Tollymore Park. Bryansford. Dundrum Castle. 

Bail 1 ' ridge. — Danes Cast. Lisnagade Fort. Tanderagee Castle. 

Portadown. — 

Lurgan.— Waringstown. 

Moira. — Trumery Church and Round Tower. 

Lishurn — Ch. Hillsborough Castle. Dromore Cathedral. Druibh Mor. 

Ardglass. — New Works. Horn, Choud, and Jordan's Castles. Ardtole. 
Kilclief Castle. 

Strangford. — Audley Castle. 

Downpatrich. — Cathedral. Slieve na Griddle. Saul and Inch Abbeys. 
Wells of Struel. Rath. 

B ally nah inch.— Wells. Montalto. Slieve Croob. Killyleagh Castle. 

Portaferry. — View from Blackbank. Castle. 

Newtownards. — Courthouse. Mount Stewart. Grey Abbey. 

Comber. — Ogilvie Monument. Carngaver Hills. 

Donaghadee. — Harbour. Rath. 

Ba ngor. — Castle. 

Belfast.— Docks. Harbour. Flax-mills, Commercial Buildings. Ulster 



IntroJ. Til. Places of Interest. lix 

B ok. Qneen's College. Cave Hill. Divis. Dranbo Church and Round 
Tower. Giant's Ring, Kempe Stones at Dundonald. Holywood, 
rrickfergu8.— Castle. Walla Gates. Oh. Dnncrue Salt-min 
me.— Oldcrfleet Castle. Glyn ch. Magheramome Landslip. Crom- 
leeh in Island Magee. The Gohhins Cliffs at Carncastle. 
irm.— Castle. Ch. Deerpark. 
( gh. — Cliff scenery. Garron Tower. Clough-na-stookan. 

'•///. — Waterfoot, Red Bay. Glendnn. 

( | xJun. — ( 

BaUycasfie — Fairhead. Coal Workings at Murlough Bay. Bonamargy 
Abbey. Rathlin Island. Cliffs at Doon. Brace's Castle. Enocklayd. 
Armoy Ronnd Tower. Gobhan Saer's Castle. 
Battintoy. — Carricka rede. Dnnseverick, 

'■ fa ( luseway. — Bengore Head. Pleaskin. Dunscverick Castle. 
Kenbane Castle. Caves. The Organ. 
Portnuh. — Dunlnce Castle. White Rocks. Portstewart 
( line. — Salmon Leap. Mount Sandel. 
Ihmloy. — Broadstone. 
7,'./ idaUtoum. — Shane's Castle. 

Antrim.— ( astle. Round Tower. Ram's Island and Round Tower. 
Lough Neagh. 

A Limavaddy. — Ascent of Keady. Dungiven Abbey and Castle. 

Valley of the Roe. Banagherch. McGilligan. Cliff scenery. Down Hill. 
Dim/. — Walker's Pillar. Cathedral. Walls. Corporation House. Har- 
bour. Bridge. Grianan of Aileach. 
Buncrana. — Dunatf Head. Malin Head. 
M — Carndonagh Cross, Inishowen Head. Greencastle. 
BaQ '. — Killydonnell Abbey. Fort Stewart. Ratlimelton Priory. 

Lamb Head. Moross Castle. Fanad Head. Letterkenny. Kilmacre- 
Abl Rock of Doone. Lough Salt. Gartan Lough. Milford. 

gh. 

— Dnnlewy. Arrigal. Bunbeg. 
maghy. — Horn Head. McSwyne'a Gun. Aid's Castle. Doe 
I R 9 ads. Falcarragh. Ascent of Muckish. 

A _ rry. Rutland Isle. Tholla Bristha. Doocharry Bridge. 
I A Early Remains. Kilclooney Cromlech. 

G Gl< ask. Seen ry at Loughros. 
G II Bt. i Inmb'a Bed. Tormore. Malinmore. 

( >''■!;. — As 5 - i. Bunglass. Corrigan Bead. Kilcar. 

K lybegs.- ( h, Schools. Fintragh. Inver ch. McSwyne'j I astle. 
/' l Abbey. Lough Easke. Gap of Barnesmore. Finn 

V 

/ I. Bridgi - ovi r thi Moume and Finn. 

1 dial. Beltany CircL . 
B ! " fra. Pulli 
Battysh* S Imon Leap. Kilbarron Castle. Belleek. Rapids i 

< rarrison. Lougli Melvin. 
B — Dnncarbry i jtle. < oery. Longh Melvin. Kin- 

U agh. ( .1 n td< V I 

>« — Abbey. I Longh GilL Hazlewood. Dromahaire. Crevelea 

bey. K incknarea Hill and Glen. Ballysodare Palls. Markre ( astle. 
it. Ljssadill. B ghly Pigeon Hole. Drumcliff Ronnd Tower and 
' nt of i dben, 

c 3 



lx Vii. Places of Interest. Introd. 

Manor Hamilton. — Castle. Glenade Valley. Lough Macnean. 

EnnisktUm. — Ch. Lough Erne. Devenish Island, Abbey, and Bound 
Tower. Cole Column. Portora School. Lisgoole. Coole Castle. Crum 
Castle. Ely Lodge. Tully Castle. Monea Castle. Florence Court. Swan- 
linbar. Marble Arch. Cuilcagh. Source of the Shannon. 

Pettigoe. — Termon McGrath Castle. Lough Derg. 

Cloght r. — Cathedral. Cascade in Lumford Glen. 

Omaijli. — Donaghmore Cross. Castle Caulfield. 

Dunganncm. — Moy. Charlemont Castle. Benburb Castle. 

Newton Stewart. — Baron's Court. Ascent of Bessy Bell. 

Limaskea. — Crum Castle. Upper Lough Erne. 

Clones. — Ch. Bound Tower. Cross. 

Monaghan. — Tynan Cross. 

Castle Blayneij. — Lough Muckna. 

Armagh. — Cathedral. Observatory. Library. Palace. Emania. B. C. 
Cathedral. 

Ready. — Linen Manufactory. 

Cavan. — Kilmore Cathedral. Lord Farnham's Grounds. 

Belturbet. — Bound Tower. Upper Lough Erne. 

Granarcl, — Moat. Abbey Lara ch. Lough Gowna. 

Virginia. — Lough Bamor. 

Kelts.— Bound Tower. St. Columb's House. Crosses. Headfort House. 
Pillar on Lloyd Hill. Hill of Tailtean. 

Navan. — Liscarton Castle. Donaghpatrick ch. Bathaldron. Nevins- 
town Cross. Bathmore ch. Castle Dexter. Donaghmore Church and 
Bound Tower. Dunmoe Castle. Chambers at Clady. Athlumney Castle. 
Cannistown ch. Kilcarn ch. ; Font. 

Slane.— Abbey. Hermitage of St. Ere. Castle. Brugh na Boinne. 

Trim. — Castle. Dominican Friary. Abbey of St. Peter and Paul. 
Yellow Steeple. Wellington Monument. Newtown Trim Abbey. Bective 
Abbey. Hill of Tara. Dangan Castle. Trubley Castle. Scurloughstown 
Castle. Donore Castle. 

HiU of Down. — Clonard Church and Font. Ticroghan Castle. Bally- 
bogan Abbey. Croghan Hill. Kinnafad Castle. 

Edendcrry. — Castle. Ch. Monasteroris ch. Castle Carbery. Source 
of the Boyne. Mylerstown Castle. Carrick Castle. 

Maynooth. — Castle. Colleges. Carton. Taghadoe Bound Tower. Clon- 
gowes College. 

LeixLip. — Bridge. Salmon Leap. Celbridge Castle. Newbridge. St. 
Wulstans (Gateways). Castletown House. Woodlands. Strawberry 
Beds. 

Mullingar. — Lough Ennel. Lough Owel. Multifarnham Abbey. Wilson's 
Hospital. Lough Dereveragh. Knockeyen. Fore Church and Walls. 
Edgeworthstown House and Church. 

Longford. — B. C. Cathedral. 

Dromod. — The Shannon. 

Carrick on Shannon. — Bockingham House. Lough Key. 

Boyle. — Abbey. Curlew Hills. Ballinafad Castle. Lough Arrow. 
KeshCorran Hills. Ballymote Abbey and Castle. 

Athlon e. — Fortifications. Bly. Bridge. Castle. Chs. Clonmacnoise. 
I.mnd Tower. Chs. Castle. Inscribed Stones. Esker Bidges. Lough 
Bee. Hare Island. Bindown Castle. 

Roscommon. — Castle. Abbey. Deerane Abbey. 



In trod. vit. Places of Interest. ] 



XI 



BaUinadoe. — Garbally Park Battlefield of Aughrim. Iismany Mode) 
Fanu. Kilconnell Abbey. 

Aihenry. — Abbey. Cattle. Abbey Knoekmoy. Loughrea Abb 
Oranmore Castle, 

i,.< ■ ,, h — Walls. Bastions, St. Nicholas ch. Docks. Joyce's and 

Dch's Mansions. House in Lombard Street. Ancient Houses. College. 
Claddagh. Menloe Castle. Lough Comb. Clare -Gal way Castle and 
Abb y. 

Aran Island. — Arkyne Castle and Round Tower. The Chs. of Teampall 
Brecain. T. Benan. * T. Mic Dnach. Forts of Dun iEngus, Dun Onaght, 
Dubh Cahir, Dubh Cathair, and OghilL Limestone Cliffs. Lighthouse. 

Oughierarde. — Waterfall. Aughnannre Castle. Hag's Castle. 

I ' ■>. — Castle. Ardbear. Waterfall. Erislannin. Slyne Head. 
Bonndstone. Unisbeg. Ballynahincb. Toombeola Abbey. Recess. 
Ascentof] :htcr. Twelve Tins. Derryclare and Inagh Lakes. Bal- 

lynakill Harbour. Letterfrack. Streamstown. Doon Castle. 

fi re. — Rinvyle Castle. Twelve Pins. Derryclare and Inagh Lakes. 

Long !'■ Mamturk Mountains. 

Leenane, — Salrock. Errive. Delphi. Lough Doo. Ascent of Muilrea. 

I . — Ruins on Inch a Goill. Abbey. Pigeon Hole. Horse's Dis- 
i rv. Canal. Cross. Maume. Hen's Castle. Bcnlevy. Lough Mask 
Castle. 

BaUinrobe. — Inishmaan ch. Scenery of Lough Mask. Hollymount. 
a] ( ;i>tle. 
Headford. — Annnghdown ch. Clydagh. Moyne Castle. Ross Abbey. 
Hi adford House. Knocknaa Hill. 

>. — Cathedra] Doorway. Cross. 
W t. — Harboivr. Ch. Lord Sligo's Domain. Murrisk Abbey. 

1 b Patrick. Drive to Louisburg. Aughagower Round Tower. The 

of the Ayle. Ballintober Abbey. 
X wport — Burrishoole Abbey. Carrigahooly Castle. Clare Island Castle 
and A 

AchtU, — Kfldannet Castle. Settlement. Ascent of Slieve More and 
Cmo-han. Keem. I> Achill Beg. 

( ■. — Lord Lucan s Farm. Pontoon. 

BaUina. — Nephin Mt. Pi. C. ch. Ruins of Abbey. Roserk and Moync 
Killaloe Church and Bound Tower. Coast Scenery from Bcal- 
B :. T> hniillet, and Knis. The Stags. 

Bray. I romlecbe at Glendruid and Kiltcrnan. Kilternan ch. Bally- 
ing Works. Bray Head. Eilruddery. Hollybrook. Valley 
ads. Dargle. Towerscourt and Waterfall. Glencrce. Kippure 
M antain. Lough Bray. Enniskerry. Fassaroe Cross. St.Valeiy. Ascent 
- _ ai I. of. 
Ni Mount Kennedy. — Glen of the Downs. Bollevue. 

Athford.—y .River. Devil's Glen. Waterworks. 
J: tthdrum. — Valley of the Annamoe. ( laragh. Vale of Avoea. 
(,'■ kiaJouoA.— Military Bead. Bound Tower. Our Lady's ch. St. 
Kevin'e Houe Gateway. < ithedraL The Monastery. Trinity ch. 
rt eli. 3 Wat nail. St. Kevin'.- Bed. Lak< Luggan- 

■u Lead Mines. Glenmalure. Ascent of Lugnaquilla. 
R I — \ur\ oery. ^Yater- works. Lougb Dan. Luggelaw. 

Sally Gap. Source of the Liffey, 



lxii vii. Places of Interest. Introd. 

Wooden Bridge. — Copper Mines at Ballymurtagh. Croghan Kinshela. 
Shelton Abbey. Aughrim Bridge. Tinnahely. 

Wiclioio. — Castle. Ch. Cliffs at Wicklow Head. 

Arlrfow. — Shelton Abbey. 

Gorey. — Courtown House. 

Ferns. — Cathedral. Monastery. Castle. 

Newtown Barry. — Valley of the Slaney. Ascent of Mount Leinster. 

Ermiscorthy. — Castle. Vinegar Hill. Ch. Scenery of the Slaney. 
Wexford.— Hums of Sclsker ch. Walls. St. Peter's ch. K. C. College. 
Bridge. 

Straffan. — Lyons Castle. Oughterarde Church and Kound Tower. 

Sttllins. — Clane Abbey. Clongowes College. 

Naas. — Kath. Jigginstown House. Blessington. Pollaphuca Water- 
fall. Scenery of Mountains. Kilcullen Old Town. Kound Tower. Cross. 
Dun Ailline. 

Newbridge. — Gt. Conall Abbey. Curragh of Kildare. 

Kildare. — Kound Tower. Abbey. Castle. Chair of Kildare. 

Monasterevan. — Moore Abbey. Ch. 

Portarlington. — Spire Hill. Emo. Lea Castle. Ballybrittas. 

Tullamore. — Earl of Charleville's Park. Rahin ch. Phillipstown. 

Maryborough. — Lunatic Asylum. Dunamase Kock. Timahoe Kound 
Tower. 

Atliy — Castle. Woodstock Castle. Preston's Gate. Cromaboo Bridge. 
Kheban Castle. Moat of Ardscull. Kath of Mullaghmast. Kilkea Castle. 
Castle Derniot Kound Tower. Abbey. Crosses. 

Carlow. — Castle. Ch. K. C. Cathedral. College. Killeshin ch. Col- 
lieries near Castle Comer. 

Leigltlin Bridge. — Black Castle. 

Kilkenny.— Castle. Bridges. St. Canice's Cathedral and Round Tower. 
St. John's ch. Black Abbey. Franciscan Monastery. R. C. Cathedral. 
College. Cave of Dunmore. Inchmore Castle. Freshford ch. 

Templemore. — Priory. Devil's Bit. Loughmore Castle. 

Thurles. — R. C. Cathedral. Castle. Holy Cross Abbey. 

Cashel. — Rock. Cathedral. Cross. Cormac's Chapel. Round Tower. 
Hore Abbey. Dominican Priory. Ardmayle Castle. 

Tipperary. — Galty Mountains. Athassel Abbey. 

Knocldong. — Castle. Moor Abbey. Hospital. 

Kilmidloch. — Walls. Gates. Old Mansions. Ch. Dominican Priory. 
Lough Gur. Forts. Cromlech. Desmond Castle. Carrig-na-Nahin. 

ArdpatricJc. — Rath of Kilfinane. Round Tower. Monastery. 

Buttevant. — Castle. Franciscan Abbey. Scenery of the Awbeg. Kilcol- 
man Castle. Doneraile Castle. Liscarroll Castle. 

Mallow. — Scenery of the Blackwater. Abbey Morne. Dromaneen Castle. 

Cork. — Blarney Castle. Scenery of the Lee. St. Finbar's. Court 
House. Harbour. Bridges. The Cove. Queenstown. Spike Island. 
Passage. Carrigalme ch. Cloyne Round Tower. Aghada. Blackrock 
Castle. Matthew Tower. 

ThomaMovm. — Bridge. Altar in R. C. Chapel. Dominican Abbey. 
Jerpoint Abbey. Inistiogue. Bridge. Ch. Woodstock. Scenery of the 
Nore. 

New Ross. — River Scenery. Bridge. Gate. Ch. Rosbercon Abbey. 
Mountgarrett Castle. Dunbrody Abbey. Duncannon. Hook Point, 
Clonmmes Abbey. Tintern Abbey. 



Introd. vir. Places of Interest. 1 



Xlll 



Wati ■■/")'<!. — Cathedral. Bridge. Reginald's Tower. Quay. Scenery 
oftheSuirto Passage. Tramore. Dunmore. 

KUmacthomas. — Bonmahon Copper Mines. L. Coumshingawn. 

Dungarvan — Abbey Side. Castle. Bridge. Valley of the Colligan. 

V k/AoZ.— Collegiate church. Dominican Abbey Ruins. Sir Walter 
Raleigh's House. Wooden Bridge. Boel< Scenery in the Bay. Ardmore 
Round Tower. Oh. Cathedral and Well of St. Declan, Rhincrew. 
Strancally Castle. Ballynatray Abbey. Dromana. Scenery of the Black- 
water. Cappoquin. Mount Melleray Monastery. Killeagh. Grounds of 
Ahadoe. 

/. ismore. — Castle. Bath. 

F rtnoy. — Barracks. Biver Scenery. Macollop Castle. Glanworth 

-tie and Abbey Ruins. Castletown Roche ch. Castle Widenham. Glen 
of the Araglin. 

Mitchdetoum. — Castle. College. Caves. 

Carrieh on Suir. — Coolnamuck. Scenery ofthe Suir. Bridge at Fiddown. 

( ' ■HimJ.—i h. Walls. Gates. Scenery of Suir. Ascent of Slievc 
Naman. Fethard. Walls and Grates. Valley of the Suir. 

Cahir. — Castle. Cahir House and Grounds. Caves of Mitchclstown. 
Ardtinan Bridge and Castle. 

/.-". erick Junction. — Ballykisteen. Oola Castle. 

PoMm. — Basaltic Columns at Linfield. 

/. k. — Thomond Bridge. Wellesley Bridge. Cathedral. Castle. 

Treaty Stone. Quay. R. C. Chapel. Barrington's Hospital. 

Killaioe. — Cathedral. St. Flannan's Hon- Rapids at Castleconncll. 
v i >f the Shannon. Lough Derg. Scariff. Iniscalthra Bound Tower. 
Ruii 

Woodford, — Scenery of Lough Derg and Slicve Boughta Mountains. 

Portu mit". — Ahbey Buins. Loragh Abbey. 

Banaghi r. — Bridge. Meelick Abbey. Clonfert. 

( ><>rt.— Chiureh and Bound Tower of Kilmacduagh. Lough Cootcr House 
and Lak 

/." «.— Franciscan Monastery Buins. Clare Ahhey. Killone Abbey. 
Callane. Miltown Malbay. Ennistymon. Liseannor Castle. Cliffs 
dr. Black 1 1 
ora. — Ch. < Inchiquin Castle. Ballyportry Castle. Dy 

Church and Bound "\ 

< I ! '-ridge. Castle. 

Quin. — Abbey. 

1 Bonrratty Castle. 

Mungn f. — Alili'T Buins. Carrig-a-Gunnel Castle. 

( Dysarl Church and Bound Tower. Manister Abbey . Bran 

Adore. — Lord Dunrav< a*sS< it, Trinitarian Abbey. Augustinian Abbey. 

n Abbey. Desmond Castle. 
Bathkeale, Priory. Newcastle Castle. 
Askeaion. — Waterfall on the Deel. Ch. Franciscai] Abbey. Castle ol 

! i ends. 
/ • —Estuary of the Shannon. GHii I tie. Shanid Castle. 
Ktlrush. — Inis y Sound Tower. Oratory of St. Senanus. 

Kilkee. — Cliff and Coasl Scenery. Natural Bridge. Bishop's Island. 

'■ r main?. Dermot and Graine'e Rock. Puffing Hole. 
L I Bally bunnion < 9. Battoo Bound Tower, 



]xiv viii. Skeleton Routes. In trod. 

Trail ee. — Blcnncrvillo. Mountain Scenery in Dingle Promontory. Bran- 
don Mountain. Dingle. Smerwick. Oratory of Gallerus. Kilmalkedar 
Pillar Stone. Templegeal. Ardfert Abbey. Ballyheigue. 

Cas&emaine. — Bridge. Forts. 

KiUarney.—Leike Scenery. Boss Castle. Inisfallen. O'Sullivan's Cas- 
cade. Glena. Dinish Island. Old Weir Bridge. Long Kange. Eagle's 
Nest Lord Brandon's Cottage. Upper Lake. Cave of Dunloe. Gap of 
Dunloe. CummeendufF. Ascent of Carrantuohill. Aghadoe Church 
and Round Tower. R. C. ch. Cloghreen. Muckross Abbey. Tore Water- 
fall. Mangerton. Police Barrack. Looscaunagh Lough. Galway's Bridge. 
Lough Guitane. Glen na coppul. Valley of the Flesk. Paps. Millstreet. 
Drishane Castle. Kanturk Castle. 

KiUorglin. — Mil town. Kilcoleman Abbey. Lough Carra. Glenbehay. 
Mountain Scenery. Terrace Road to Cahirciveen. 

Cahirciveen. — Ballycarbery Castle and Fort. Valentia Island. Slate 
Works and Quarries. Knight of Kerry's House. 

WaterviUe. — Lough Curraun. Early Ecclesiastical Remains on Church 
Island. Ballinskellig Bay. Dowlas Head. Skellig's Rocks. Derrynane 
Abbey. Forts at Templenakilla (earthen), Cahirdaniel, and Staigue 
(stone). 

Kenmare. — Bridge over the Blackwater. Dromore Castle. Suspension 
Bridge. Road to Killarney. 

Glengarrif.—C-dstle. Scenery of the Bay. Cromwell's Bridge. Adri- 
goole Waterfall. Hungry Hill. 

Castletown Bearhaven. — Defences. Mines at Allahies. 

Buntry. — Scenery of Bay. Falls of the Mealagh. Pass of Keimaneigh. 
Gougane Barra. Oratory of St. Finbar. Inchigeelah. Castle Masters. 

Skull. — Copper Mines at Ballydehob. Bay of Roaring Water. Crook- 
haven. 

Slubber een. — Coast Scenery at Baltimore. Lough Hyne. Leap Ravine. 

Clonakilty. — Stone Circle. Fortresses on the Coast. Roscarberry Cathe- 
dral. Templefaughtna. Timoleague Abbey. 

Dunmanway. — Ballyna-carrig Castle. 

Bandon. — Ch. Castle Bernard. Inishannon. Domdaniel Castle. Castle 
Cor. 

Kinsale. — Ch. Harbour. Forts. Old Head of Kinsale. 

Macroom. — Carrigaphooca Castle. Dundareirke Castle. Mashanaglass 
Castle. Macroom Castle. Carrigadrohid Castle. 

Ballincollig. — Powder-mills. Ovens. Kilcrea Abbey. Dripsey. Ogham 
Stone. Inisli carra ch. Scenery of the Lea at Inishcarra and Ardrum. 
Carrigrohane Castle. 



VIII. Skeleton Routes. 
I. A MONTH'S TOUR IN THE NORTH. 

1. Dublin to Howth, St. Doulough's, Malahide, and Lusk ; sleep at 

Drogheda. 

2. See Drogheda. Excursion to Mellifont and Monasterboice, and Duleek. 

3. Rail to Navan, returning by road to Drogheda; see Slane, New- 

grange, Battlefield of the Boyne, and Dowth. 

4. Rail to Dundalk, Clones, Enniskillen ; see Devenish. 



Introd. viii. Skeleton Routes. lxv 

5. F' ie Court. Cuilcagh, Marble Arch. If time in evening, row 
up the lake to Lisgoole. 
To Sliero : see Abbey and Knocknarea. 
7. Lough Gill. Dromahaire. Hazlewood. 
- To Bundoran and Ballyshannon. Ballintra. The Pullens. Sleep at 

Donegal. 
9. See Castle and Abbey. To Killybegs and Oarrick. 
1". Ascend Slieve Leagu Glen Coast. 

11. Glengeask. Ardara. Get on to Glenties very poor accommodation). 

12. To Doocharry Bridge, Dunglow, and Gweedore. 

13. Ascend Arrigal. Dunlewy. To Dnnfanaghy. 

li. Horn Head. Doe Castle. Glen. Lough Salt. Rathmullan. 
15. To Bathmelton. Kilmacrenan. Letterkenny. 
Itrabane. Derry; see Derry. 

17. M'Gilligan. Newtown Lima vaddy. Dungiven. Portrush. 

18. I Dunluce and Causeway. Sleep there. 

19. To Ballintoy. Carrick-a-rede. Ballycastie. Fairhead. 

20. To Cushendall ; e ■ I ves. Glenarm. Larne. Olderfleet Castle. 

21. Clifl Scenery in Island Magee ; see Carrickfergus. To Belfast. 

22. Belfast. Drumbo. Giant's Ring. 
Excursion to Cave Hill, Antrim, Lough Ncagh. 

24. Excursion to Downpa trick, Saul, Inch, &c. 

25, To Armagh; in afternoon to Dnngannon. 
By rail to Banbridge. Drive to Briansford. 

id Slieve Donard. Newcastle. 
. To Rostrevor. Warrenpoint. 
< irlingford. Evening by rail to Dublin. 
30. Excursion to Trim and Bective. 



H. A TOUR THROUGH CONNAUGHT. 

1. DuMin to Mullimrar. Mnltifarnham. Lough Ennell. 
%, A I alone. Lough Rea. 

I machnois; in evening to BallinasL 

4. Ballii G Ibally, KilconnelL Athenry. 

5. Athenry Ruins, Abbey Knockmoy. Tuam. 

6. I i Headfbrd. Boss Abbey. Claregalway, Galway. 

7. ( fadway. 

8. Lough Corrib to Cong, Pigeon Hole, &c. 

1 onion to Manme. Hen's Castle. InchagoilL Return to 

I - dway. 
To ( taghterarde and Recess. Ascend Lissougliter. 
11. To Roundstown. Urrisbeg. Clifden. 
1-. S Clifden. Afternoon to Kylemore. 
13. id Twelve Pins. 

11. I . ig I* . > ilrock. Leenane. 
. Killaries. Delphi Longb Doo. Ascend Mniln 
• port. Clew Baj . iagower. 

1 7. M A I ' rick. 

18. To Acl ill Sleep al - kth ment 

19. A I tan. Visit K . I : 

i . . [sfa -I-. N< wport to CastL bar. 



lxvi [ viii. Skeleton Routes. Introd. 



\ 



21. Excursion to Balla and Ballintober. The Ayle. 

22. To Ballina by Pontoon and Foxford. 
2:). Roserk. Moyne. Killala. Ballycastle. 

24. Along the coast to Belmullet. 

25. Return by Crossmolina to Ballina ; on to Sligo. 
20. See Abbey. Town. Lough Gill. 

27. Knocknarea. Glencar. 

28. Boyle Abbey. Carrick. Longford. Dublin. 



III. A TOUR OF SIX WEEKS THOUGH THE SOUTH. 

1. Dublin to Kildare. Athy. Timahoe. Maryborough. 

2. By rail to Roscrea. Parsonstown. Thurles. 

3. Holy Cross. Cashel. j 

4. To Limerick : see the city. 

5. Killaloe. Castle Connell. Scariff. Iniscalthra. 

6. Excursion to Bunratty. Quin. Clare Castle. Ennis. 

7. Carrigagunnell. Adare. Rathkeale. 

8. Askeaton. Shanagolden. Foynes ; and by steamer to Kilkee. 

9. Kilkee. 

10. Return to Tarbert. Listowell by Ballybunnion Caves. Tralee. 

11. Excursion to Dingle. 

12. Visit early remains at Smerwick. Return to Tralee. Evening to Kil- 

larney. 

13. Lower Lake. O'Sulli van's Cascade. Innisfallen. Ross, &c. 

14. Aghadoe. Gap of Dunloe. CummeendufT. 

15. Ascend Mangerton. Muckross. Tore. 

16. Ascend Carrantuohill. 

17. Cahirciveen. Isle of Valentia. 

18. To Waterville. Lough Curraun. 

19. To Kenmare, Staigue Fort, &c. 

20. To Glengarriff. 

21. To Castletown Bearhaven. Adragoole Waterfall. 

22. By water (if weather permit) to Bantry, Gougane Barra. Macroom. 

23. To Cork. 

24. See Cork. Afternoon to Blarney. 

25. Kinsale. Bandon. 

26. Queenstown. Cloyne Round Tower. Youghal. 

27. Up the Blackwater to Lismore and Fermoy. 

28. Mallow. Buttevant. Kilmallock. Sleep at Limerick Junction or 

Tipperary. 

29. Athassel Abbey. Cahir. 

30. Caves. Mitchelstown Castle. Ardfinane. Clonmel. 

31. Clonmel. Ascend Slieve Naman, or visit Fethard. 

32. Carrick. Coolnamuck. Waterford. 

33. Excursion to Jerpoint. Thomastown. 
31. Kilkenny. 

35. Return to Inistiogue. By water to Ross. Tramore to Waterford. 

36. Steamer to Duncannon. Dunbrody. 

37. Duncannon through Clonnhnes to Wexford. 

38. Enniscorthy. Arklow. Sleep at Wooden Bridgo. 

39. Yale of Avoca. Rathdown. Wicklow. Ashfoid. 



Introd. viii. Skeleton Routes. lxvii 

10. D< vil's Glen. Annamoe. 7 Churches. 

11. Yale of Glenmalure, Roundwood. Lough Dan. 
\2. Luggelaw. Sally Gap. Glencrea. Enniskerry. 

1.".. Powerscourt Waterfall. Donee Mountain. Dargle. 
ll. Scalp. Cromlechs. Killiney. Kingstown. 

IV. A WEEK'S TOUR IX WICKLOW. 

1. Duhlin to Bray. Bray Head or Sngarloaf. Kilruddery. Glen of 

the Down. 

2. Delgany. Killoughter. Ashfonl. Devil's Glen. 

3. Wicklow. Rathdrnm. Wooden Bridge. Shelton. 

4. T<< Rathdrnm. 7 Chnrches. 

5. Glenmalnre. Ascend Lugnaquilla. 

6. Ronnd Wood. Lough Dan. Pollaphuca. 

7. Lnggelaw. Gleneree. Lough Bray. Enniskerry. 

8. Dargle, Powerscourt. Bray. Scalp. 

V. A FORTNIGHT IX KERRY. 

1. Dul»lin to Mallow. Mallow to Kanturk and Millstreet. 

2. Ascend Paps. Descend Valley of Flesk to Killarney. 

3. The Lake, &c. 

4. Mangerton. Lough Guitane. Muckross. 

5. Aghadoe. Dunloe. 

6. GarrantnohilL 

7. To Tralee and Ventry. 

8. Ascend Brandon. Bleep at Dingle. 

9. Bv water to Valentia if weather permit). 

10. To Waterville. 

11. B :n. Kenmare. 

12. Glengarriff. Ban try. 

13. Pass of Keimaneigu. Inehigeelah. Macroom. 

14. To Cork. 

VI. A WEEKS TOUR IX CLARE. 

1. Dublin to Limerick. 

2. Limerick to Kilrush. Iniseattery. 

3. Kilrush to L »p Head and up the coast to Kilkee. 

4. Kilkee to Miltown Malbay. 

5. Excursion to Blieve Oallane and Ennis. 
T Ennistymon, Liscannor. 

fMoher. Kflfenora. Corrofin. Ennis. 
8. Ennis to Killaloe. Up the Shannon to Athlone). 

VII. A WEEK ON THE BOYNE AXD BLACKWATER. 
1. Dublin to Enfield. Oarberryand Edenderry, 

ird. Trim. 

. B • •■ Hill of Tar;.. 

L T] m to Athl B Us. < Hdcastle. Virgini 



Ixviii viit. Skeleton Routes. Introd. 

5. By the Blnokwater to Navan. 

6. Navan to Slane and Drogheda. 

7. Drogheda. Mellifont. Monasterboice. 

VIII. A FORTNIGHT IN DONEGAL AND DERRY. 

1. Dublin to Enniskillen. 

2. Pettigoe. Lough Derg. Donegal. 

3. Donegal. Killybegs. Carrick. 

4. Ascend Slieve League. Glen. 

5. Glengeask. Ardara. 

6. Ardara to Gweedore. 

7. Ascend Arrigal. Dunlewy, Dunfanaghy. 

8. Horn Head. Lough Salt. Letterkenny. 

9. Lough Gartan. Milford. Rathmullan. 

10. Rathmullan. Rathmelton. Grianan of Aileach. Derry. 

11. See Deny. Afternoon to Buncrana. 

12. Moville. Inishowen. Return to Derry. 

13. M'Gilligan. Dungiven. Coleraine. Portrush. 

14. Causeway. Dunluce. Portrush to Belfast by rail. 

IX. A WEEK IN DUBLIN. 

1, 2. Devote the first 2 days to the immediate city. 

3. Howth. Malahide. Swords. Clontarf. 

4. Phoenix. Glasnevin. Dunsink. Lucan. 

5. Clondalkin. Drimnagh. Celbridge. 

6. Rathmines. Rathfarnham. Kilternan. Shanganagh. Glendruid. 

Scalp. Bray. 

7. Kilruddery. Bray Head. Killiney. Kingstown. Monkstown. 

X. A MONTH IN THE SOUTH, 

commencing at Water ford {from Milford). 

1. Waterford. Thomastown. Inishtiogue. Jerpoint. 

2. Kilkenny. 

3. Clonmel. Cahir. 

4. Mitchelstown. Caves. Castle. Glanworth. Fermoy. 

5. Lismore. Cappoquin. Steamer to Youghal. 
(;. Ardmore. Youghal. By rail to Cork. 

7. Cork. Blarney. 

8. By water to Queenstown. Cloyne. Aghadoe. Carrigaline. Drive to 

Kinsale. 

9. Old Head of Kinsale. Bandon River. Bandon. 

10. Clonakilty. Roscarbery. Timoleague. Skibbereen. 

11. Baltimore. Ballydehob. Mines. Bantry. 

12. By water to Castletown-Bearhaven. Allihies Mines. 
18. Adragoole. Glengarriff. 

14. Excursion to Pass of Keimaneigh and Inchigeelah. 

1 5. To Kenmare and Killarney. 
1G. Lake, &c. 



Intr 



ix. Gl >ssl i i v/ of I) ' ish Won t Is . 



lxix 



17. Dunloe, 

18. Mangerton. 

19. To Bneem and Waterville, 
T Valentia, 

21. Cross over to Dingle ox Ventry. 

22. Ascend Brandon — visit early remains-— into Tralee. 

I Vrdfert, Listowell, Ballybnnnion and Tarbert 

24. To Kilk 

85. Return to Limerick. 

86. Killaloe, Caetle OonneH and Scariff. 

27, Adare. Askeaton— by direct line to Charleville and Kihnallock. 

28, Excursion to Lough Gur, Athassel, Tipperary. 

29. OasheL Holycross, 

30. To Dublin. 



IX. — Glossary of Irish Words, usually found in the 

CONSTRUCTION OF NAMES OF PLACES. 



Achadh 
Acba . . 
Abhan 
Ag*h .. 

Ail .. .. 
Aileach 

Aill.. .. 



Aird .. 
Airde . . 
Ath.. .. 
All 
Allui 
Anmhcr 
Aoi . . .. 
Bade .. 
Ball.. .. 
Bealach 
I', anna 
1 1 ' rra . . 
Brae . . 
B an . . 



Br 



ireaic 

1 - d or Gaabel 

I an 

I m 

1 iiir or Catbair 

Cead 

« . I ill 

I 

I r 

( . >cban 



Field. 

Mound, 

River. 

Battle. 
Stone. 

Stone-horse. 
Course, also a 
steep precipice. 
Coast or quarter. 
Height. 
Ford. 

Rocky cliff. 
Wild. 
Great. 
Country. 
Town. 
Place. 
Highway. 
Top. [wells. 

Abounding in 
Arm. 
Black. 
Fortified house or 

lace. 
I; ' k. 

A stone fort. 
tie. 

B >ne fort 

D. 
Church. 

a 

B ck 
l . . way, 



Cloch Bell or clock. 

Oloig-theach .... Steeple. 

Cluain A plain between 

two woods — 
hence a retreat. 

Cua Good. 

Cnoc Hill. 

Coimh The inflexion of 

comh — equal. 

Coinne Woman, 

Coll Head. 

Comh Equal, or partner. 

Crioch Country. 

Crubh Hand. 

Cruadh Hard. 

Cuan Bay. 

Da Good. 

Daimli House. 

Dairbhre Oak. 

Dinn Hill. 

Dis Two. 

Domnach Church. 

Drochad Bridge. 

Drom Back part. 

Dun Fortn 

Dubh Black. 

Basai Cataract. 

F< adh Wood. 

it Man. 

ran Mountain valley. 

Fronn Small. 

Mi Rough. 

\ Whit 

Gort Field. 



lxx 



ix. Glossary of Irish Words. 



Introd. 



Grian Bottom of a sea 

Iach Salmon, [or lake. 

Far Black. [west. 

Also back, the 

Inis Island. 

Leaclit Grave. 

Leabhhar Book. 

Leath Half. 

Lia Stream or flood. 

Great stone. 

Loe A place. 

Mam Mother. 

Ma'm Hand or foot. 

Meall Hill. 

Mile 1000. 

Mor Great. 

Magh Plain. 

Neall Cloud. 

Oil Rock, 



Oir.. .. 
Ramhad 
Rath .. 
Ral .. .. 



Righ .. 
Rinn . . 
Ruadh 
"Sean . . 
Siol .. .. 
Sliabh . 
Slieve . 
Sneacht 
Soib .. 
Suil.. .. 
Sul .... 
Ta'n .. 
Tlacht 
Tur.. .. 
Uisg . . 



Golden. 

Road. 

An earthen fort. 

Plain. 

King. 

Point. 

Red. 

Old, ancient. 

Tribe. 

Mountain. 

Snow. 

Hand. 

Eye. 

Sun. 

Counting. 

Earth. 

Tower. 

Water. 



HANDBOOK 



FOR 



I R ELAND. 



1. 



EOUTES. 

The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are 

described. 



o. 

4. 

7. 
8. 

9. 

10. 

11. 
1_. 

14. 
15. 

17. 
18. 



PAGE 

Holyhead to Kingstown and 
1> Win ....'.. . 2 

Dublin to D, < and Dun- 

Ik . 19 

i Belfast 30 

to Belfast, through 
7. r and Downpatrick . 38 

• ... 47 
Dundalk to Enniskitten and 

S 54 

Enniskillen to DerrUg by Omagh 61 
SYi/o to Strabane, through 

mnon and Donegal . 70 
Enniskillen to Pettijoe, Done- 
gal, and KMybegs .... 80 
Strabane IMterkenny, 

' > I re 9 Dunglow, Ai *dara, 

and Killv 85 

London to Gweedore, 

th. ihy . . . 93 

fast, by the 
Northern Counties Railway . _ 99 
Coleraine - Port- 

■ ' '.}•> 

and B -tie • . . .100 

Dublin to M /•. Athlon*,, 

, and Galway . .119 
/ and Enfield to 
D i, through Trim and 

i 129 

Dn a ■ ■' , and 

. by Rail 142 

Mai Portadown, 

through C and Arma jh . 147 

., through 
-£ '/i- 
'j 152 



ROUTE PAGE 

19. Athlone to Roscommon, Castle- 
reagh, Ballina, and Belmtdlet I 

20. Galway t<» Clifden, through 
Oughterarde and Ballynahinch 1(34 

21. Gaiway to Ballinrobe and West- 
port " 180 

22. Clifden to Lcenane, Westport, 

and Sligo 187 

23. Dublin to Wexford, through 

yn'c'/.Zov/, Arklow, and Ennis- 
corthy 199 

24. Dublin to Rathdrum and Ark- 
low. — Tour through Wichlow 207 

25. Dublin to Cork, by the Great 
Southern and Western Railway 219 

26. Dublin to Carlow, Kilkenny 
and Waterford, by Rail . . 2 

27. Kilkenny to Athenry, through 
Parsonstown and Loughrea . 251 

28. Wexford to Cork, through 

Waterford, Dungarvan, and 
Youghal 254 

29. Youghal to Cahir, through 
Lismore and Fermoy . . . 266 

30. Limerick to Waterford . . . 271 

31. Mallow to Killamey and Tralee. 

— The I.aki: of Killakxly 277 
Limerick to Tralee . • . . 2 
Li ericA to Doyle, through 

s and Tuam . 
The Shannon, from Afhlone to 

T imerick 

Killarney to Valentia and 

£5 m 324 

36. C< rk to Kenmai , on, 

v. and 6 . . 

17. ' to Bant r 



. 









Route 1, — Hohjlicad to Dublin. 



Irkland. 



ROUTE 1. 

FROM HOLYHEAD TO KINGSTOWN 
AND DUBLIN. 

Few routes of travel, even in 
these days of speed and comfort, can 

ow such palpable improvement 
as that between Holyhead and 
Kingstown. Instead of the old sail- 
ing packet-boat, that made its cross- 
ing subject to wind and weather, 
the tourist is conveyed by magnifi- 

it steamers, each of 2000 tons and 
700 horse-power, which perform the 
distance of G6 m. in 4 horns, with 
most undeviating regularity — the 
punctuality that is kept, even in 
stormy weather, being something 
marvellous. The tourist will wonder 
less at it perhaps when he knows 
that, by the terms of the contract with 
the Post Office authorities, a fine is 
enforced of 34s. for every minute 
behind time, except in cases of fog. 
The Leinster, Ulster, Munster, and 
Conn an ght are four of the most com- 
fortable and splendid steamers to 
be found in any mail-service; they 
are also the speediest, the mea- 
sured mile by which all steam- 
vessels are tested having been tra- 
versed by them at the rate of 18 knots 
or 20 m. an hour; and the accom- 
modations for landing, particularly 
on the Dublin side, are so per- 

ct That the traveller has nothing 

i do but step froin one carriage into 
ih*-, steamer, and out again into an- 
other on the opposite side. Two 
packets leave Holyhead (Hotel : 
Royal) during the 24 hours, the 

tal distance from London to Dub- 
lin of 330 m. being performed in 
about 10 horns by the express trains 

id sti amers. It may not be amiss 
to advi.se tin; traveller by the night- 
ijitiil to secure his sleeping-berth 



directly he puts his foot on board. 
As the vessel emerges from the 
harbour, it glides past the noble 
breakwater, and the quarries from 
whence the stone for the works is 
obtained ; then past the Holy Head, 
with its telegraph-station, and the 
Stack Bock, with its lighthouse. The 
first 20 m. of the passage is gene- 
rally rougher than the remainder, 
owing to the prevalence of strong 
currents in the Kace of Holyhead. 
In due course of time the distant 
hills of the Emerald Isle loom in the 
far west, disclosing, as the steamer 
approaches near enough, a mag- 
nificent panorama of the whole coast 
from Balbriggan to Wicklow, with its 
glorious groups of mountains catching 
the rays of the rising or setting sun, 
as the case may be. Nearer still, the 
populous line of coast between Bray 
and Dublin appears as though occu- 
pied by continuous chains of villas. 
To the 1. is the distant Lam- 
bay Island, with Ireland's Eye, and 
nearer home the Hill of Howth, with 
the Baily Lighthouse. Some 8 m. 
from Kingstown vessels pass the Kish 
Light, placed there to designate 
a long chain of bank which runs 
down the coast from Howth. The 
tourist has scarce time sufficient to 
drink in the exquibite views of the 
Bay of Dublin, ere the steamer enters 
the capacious harbour of 

Kingstoivn (Hotels : Boyal, Angle- 
sey Arms — both excellent), bear- 
ing somewhat the same relation 
to Dublin that Clifton does to 
Bristol — a pleasant marine neigh- 
bour, where much of the fashion of 
Dublin migrates for fresh air and sea- 
bathing, and many of the wealthier 
citizens reside. Most of this portion 
dates from 1821, when George IV. 
embarked here, and gave permission 
to change the name from Dunleary to 
Kingstown. This fact has been com- 
memorated in an ugly obelisk of 
granite surmounted by a crown. 

The Harbour, towards which Par- 
liament advanced 505,000L, is a fine 



IRELAXT). 



Route 1. — Kingstown. 



work, the first Btone of which was 
laid by Lord Whitworth, the Lord 
Lieutenant, in 1817. It embraces an 
a of 251 acres, and is surrounded 
by piers to the extent of 8450 ft.; 
these terminate towards the sea by 
an inclined plane. bo as to make the 
thickness of the base 310 ft. At 
the pier-head, where there is 24 ft, 
of water at the lowest spring, is a 
lighthouse showings revolving light. 
From the S. pier runs out a long 
vered quay, called the Carlisle 
Landing Quay. This is laid down 
with rails, t^ allow the mail-packets 
t i i ^change p r once with 

the railway carri j s, bo that little 
or no time is I"-! in the transference. 
The whole of these massive works 
1 milt with granite from the 
bouring quarries of Killiney 
B1 . 24 . Immediately fronting the 
• the harbour arc the St. 
I 1 Club-house, the Royal Irish 

I lib-house, and the Railway Slat., 
which, with the fine open space 
and them, contribute very much 
to the handsome and bright look of 
the pi: T\ ce is the rendez- 

vous of the military hands, which in 
the season play twice a week, and, 
' _ • t with the Pier, forms a con- 
tit promenade for the gay folks of 
Ki . wn, who generally muster 
in numl bout the time of 

the arrival and departure of the 
7 ' g ck< t. Tin's La 

ly th at event of the 

y. 

The town Ha If Is stn Airliner, m 
the h rontingtl being of 

superi -•• at the back, 

after of watering-plac 

t th-' eh; . Ki ni:- .-town 

in th ry. particu- 

larly ' Is the S., wh inert trip 

moderate walk, will 
ible tl climb the - 

Killi • y Hill, the antiquary 

number of 

. But the er who 



has fco make the lour of Ireland will 
not have much time to spare, so he 
must enter the train en route for Dub- 
lin, (> m. distant. This line, which 
is now incorporated with and worked 
by the Dublin and Wicklow Com- 
pany, was opened first in L 834, and ex- 
tended from Kingstown to Uray in 
1854. To show the convenience that 
it is to the public, it is sufficient to 
mention that, in 18C.0, '2,200,000 pas- 
sengers were conveyed by it. Al- 
though the speed is not great, and 
the stoppages are numerous, yet the 
Kingstown line is pleasant, comfort- 
able, and well managed —indeed, the 
scenery in itself would indemnify the 
traveller for a good deal of discomfort. 
The line runs for the whole distance 
along the curve of Dublin Bay, so 
to produce a constant succession 
of charming views, while inland are 
numerous terraces and villas, and 
now and then a wooded park, with 
occasional peeps of the Dublin Moun- 
tains in the background. The sta- 
tions on the line are at Salthill, 
Blackrock, Booterstown, Foxrock, and 
Sandymount — all of them accom- 
modating a large suburban popu- 
lation. 

From SaUhill, where Parry's is 
a remarkably excellent hotel, and the 
Lovegrove's of Dublin, the tourist 
may visit Monkstown ch., a singu- 
larly incongruous building — "an 
edifice tui generis; outside it looks 

,,n what of a mule between the 
Gothic and Saracenic; the steeple 
18 surmounted by a cross, but the 
summits have something of a ere - 

it.* In the adjoining grounds i 
ruins of old Monkstown ( lastle, one of 

reral defensive establishments built 
protect the v which lay in 

Dublin Sound, owing to the shallow- 
ness of the Lifiey nai u The 
remainder of the neighbour!* d i 
be better visit d from 

Dub in Pop. L3 , which the 

risi i at tii.' terminus i;i 

i Bow. 

Th-- City of Dub!in t the metropolis 

l 2 



Route 1. — Dublin. 



Ireland. 



[reland, is situated on the shore of 
Dublin Bay, and m the basin of the 
Liffey, which, flowing from W. to E., 
divides the city into two equal ])arts. 
In addition to this river; two or three 
i [nor streams water it, viz., the 

Lka, which accompanies the Mid- 
I n ! ( Jreal Western lUy. on the N.,and 

w- into the bay above the N. Wall ; 
the Dodder, which rises in the Dublin 
Mountains, and. skirting the southern 
suburbs, joins the Liffey close to its 
mouth at King-send. Probably no 
city in the world has such a magnifi- 

it neighbourhood as Dublin — par- 

olarly on the S., where it abounds 
in mountain-scenery of a high order, 
approaching the city sufficiently near 
to form an appreciable background 
in many of the street-views. Before 
commencing anything like a de- 
toiled survey of the city, it will be 
as well to give a general outline of 
the arrangements of the streets, so 
that the tourist may be au fait as to 
the leading thoroughfares. The 
c; watery highway " of the Liffey is a 
great landmark which can never be 
mistaken, as it divides the city into 
the northern and southern portions. A. 
great thoroughfare, running N. and S., 
intersects the Liffey at rt. angles, con- 
sisting of Rutland-square, Sackville- 
itreet, Carlisle-bridge, Westmoreland-, 
Btreet, Grafton-street, and Stephen's- 
green. As almost all the public 
buildings ore within a radius of 
5 minutes' walk from one or other of 
these thoroughfares, the tourist need 
not fear losing his way to any great 

t« nt. 

Hotels. — Dublin is largely sup- 
plied with hotels, though, consider- 
ing it as tli" metropolis, there are 
not so mnny first-class establish- 
ments as might be expected. It will 
suffice to enumerate a few. On the 
X. side are, in Sackville-street, the 
Bilton, a family hotel, very good; 
the Gresham, good; Imperial, toler- 
ble ; Prince of Wales, commercial, 
but good and clean. On the S. side, 
in Dawson-street : Morrison's, first- 



class; Mackcn's, comfortable, and 
much frequented by military men and 
bachelors ; the Hibernian, very good. 
In Stephen's Green, the Shclburne (fa- 
mily). In College Green, Jury's, com- 
mercial (a good table-d'hote here }. 
There are, of course, numbers of others 
of every grade, from the hotel to the 
coffee-house,, but the above will in- 
clude everything necessary, 

Street Conveyances. — Omnibuses 
traverse special routes at stated times, 
forming a pleasant way of visit- 
ing the suburbs. The various routes 
will be found in the official Railway 
Guide ; but, wherever their destina- 
tion, they almost invariably depart 
from Nelson's Pillar in Sackville- 
street. Cabs and cars are legion — 
the former are after the London 
fashion, but the cars, with their re- 
spective Jarveys, are exclusively Dub- 
lin. To see the city, a car must be 
taken — the fares being but Gd. for 
what is called a set-down, viz., a 
drive to and from any place within 
the Corporation bounds, special bar- 
gains to be made for stoppages or 
hiring by time. As a rule, the Dub- 
lin carmen are civil and obliging 
— considerably more so than their 
confreres in London. 

In describing Dublin in detail, we 
should begin by its main artery, the 
Li fey, which, rising in the mountains 
of Wicklow, near Sally Gap, takes a 
circuitous course by Blessington, Kil- 
cullen, and Newbridge, from whence 
it flows nearly due E. through 
Leixlip, with its salmon-leap (Etc. 
14), the Strawberry-beds near Chapel- 
Izod, and past the Phoenix-park, 
where it may be said to enter 
the city. A little before reaching 
the Wellington Testimonial, it is 
crossed by (1) the Sarah-bridge (after 
Sarah Countess of Westmoreland, 
who laid the first stone"). It has one 
fine elliptic arch, 104 ft. in diameter, 
and is 7 ft. wider than the Kialto at 
Venice. Close to the terminus of 
the Great Southern and Western 
Ely. is (2) the King's-bridge, built 



Ireland. 



J? nfc 1. — Brick > >. 



5 



aemoration of ( reorge IV, - 
Land in L821. This also 
is a single arch of LOO ft. span, with 
abutments of granite, and cost 
13,0002., col] by public sub- 

iption. Passing on 1. the Royal 
rracks, it reaches 3] Barrack- 
bridge, which replaced one of wood, 
known as the Bloody-bridge, and con- 
sists of I - micircular arches. The 
iii.' of the Bloody-bridere orisi- 
nated from a battle "between the 
Duke of Lancaster and the Irish 
ler their King Art O'Cavi aagh, 
in which the English were d< G ated 
wirli such slaughter that the river 
i n red with blood for 3 day-.' I 

Queen's-hridge, built in L7< 
1. L is 140 ft. in length. 

which preced d it. v. 
y by a flood. A very an- 
uctun d wh< re is now 

th-brid alt dur- 

i g the rule of Lord Whitworth, 
A" in 1816. It formerly 

called, at di a dd, Dublin, 

1 Ormond Brid ad was rebuilt, 
r a fell, in 1427, by the Domini- 
-. •• fi ]• the convenience of their 
at Ush i- - Island. Tl 
. like the Arran, was - 
by the flood in 1812. in sink- 
foundation of Whitworth- 
. it was 1 that the 

• lid Bridge fl -\ d 
up ruins of another .-till m< 

. which is suppoa have 

»nstructi d in King .1 
reign.' — I 1 1 i 

I • urch-st i nd Bi 

on ( Lther aide, are 
Ld Dubli . 
1. the Four ( 

. . of 3 archi - of 
I stone, and with an iron 
le. 'I to. the k< y- 

►n one 
; I 

! I . od 

ustry. on the \. be- 

b and Richmond 

1 is alnu st i cupied 

1 nr 



Courts, forming one of the fin< 
views in Dublin. 

(7) Essex-bridge was rebuill in 
17.").). during the Viceroyalty of the 
Marl of Essex. It is a fine bridge of 
5 arches, fashioned after the model oi 
Old Westminster Bridge. The vista 
at the S. end of Parliament-street is 
formed by the colonnade of the Exr 
chang . 

The Wellington, more com- 
monly known as the Metal-bridge, is 
a Light iron bridge of one arch. A 
toll is exacted here. 

The bridge par excellence of 
Pnhlin is ( Jarlisle, n< arly in the centre 
of the city, which the inliabitan 
Eblana consider, and not without 
reason, as the point from whence 
the finest view of the public build- 

and the river can beobtained.fi 
It connects the two leading thorough- 
fares of Sackville-street and West- 
moreland-- The view on the 
X. embraces the former, with the 
Nelson Pillar and the General Post- 

: on the W. the numerous 
bridges, the Four Courts, and the 
towers of Christ Ch. and St. Patrick ; 
and on the E. the docks crowded 
with shipping, the quays, and the 
C i-tom House. The bridg If 

consists of 3 arches surmounted by a 
balustrade, and is 210 ft. in lengtfr. 
From hence, the Liffey, beari] _ 
numbers of ships on her bosom, flo 

it the quays and the noble cut 
house i" the a a. The Long line of 
quays on the N., from whence m< 
of the steamers start, is called 
the North Wall, and at the end 
of it is a fixed light. The South 
Wall begins at Ringsend, Dear 1 1 
mouth of the Dodder, and was 
erected for the purpose of guard] 
the harbour against the encroac 
ments of the South Bull Si ads, 1 
is really an astonishing work, <'<>n- 
f large blocks of granit 
mped toget her, and runni ig i 
into the Bay of I Niblin foi 

,i. Bfolf way is the Pig 
11 , 1 \ aal, t [ r 



G 



Route 1. — Dublin. 



Ireland* 



with a basm which was much in re- 
quest prior to the formation of Kings- 
town. At the very end of the wall 
is the Poolbeg Lighthouse, bearing a 
fixed light 

To guard the harbour against the 
sands of the North Bull, another 
work, called the Bull Wall, was 
erected. It runs from the coast 
near Dollymount in a S.E. di- 
rection to within a few hundred 
yards of the lighthouse. " The com- 
mercc of the port of Dublin had in- 
creased so much towards the close of 
the last century that the accommoda- 
tion afforded in the river for shipping 
was found insufficient, and Parlia- 
ment consequently granted 45,000Z. 
for forming docks on each side of it. 
The docks communicating with the 
Grand Canal on the S. side were 
opened in 1796, and St. George's, the 
latest of the Custom House docks, in 
1821. These latter cover an area of 
8 acres, have 16ft. depth of water, 
and 1:100 yards of quayage, and are 
capable of accommodating 40,000 
tons of shipping, surrounded by 
stores which will hold 8000 casks of 
sugar and tobacco, and 20,000 chests 
of tea, with cellarage for 12,000 pipes 
of wine. " — Thorn. The duties raised 
in the port in 1859 amounted to 
1,066,252/. 

The other water highways of Dub- 
lin are the Royal Canal, a branch 
of which enters the city alongside 
of the Midland Great Western 
Ely., while the main channel follows 
the course of the Circular-road, and 
fells into the LitYev at the North 
A Vail. The Grand Canal makes a 
corresponding ellipsis on the S. side, 
and falls in at Ringsend with the 
Dodder. At its mouth are the Grand 
< ;mal Docks, which are well seen 
from the Kingstown Ely. 

Dublin po s 5 rly. stats. : — 

1. The terminus of the Kingstown 
line at Westland Row offers nothing 
of interest, either in architecture or 
arrangement. 



2. The Bray and Wicklow Stat, in 
Harcourt Str. is a plain, but massive 
Doric building, approached by a 
broad flight of steps and a colonnade. 

3. The Great Southern and Western 
Stat, at Kingsbridge has a fine, though 
rather florid Corinthian front, flanked 
on each side by wings surmounted 
by clock- towers. These 3 last are all 
in the S. quarter of the city. 

4. The Midland Great Western at 
Broaclstone is a heavy building, of 
a mixture of Grecian and Egyptian 
styles, which, together with the sad- 
coloured limestone, gives it a sombre 
appearance. 

5. The Drogheda terminus in 
Amiens St. decidedly carries off the 
palm for architectural beauty, with its 
light and graceful Italian facade. 

Most of the public buildings are 
situated within a short distance of 
each other. In fact, with a few ex- 
ceptions, there is scarce 10 minutes' 
walk between any of them ; and this 
circumstance contributes to the noble 
street views, for which the city is so 
famous. Occupying the angles of 
Westmoreland and Dame Strs., and 
forming one of the sides of College 
Green, is 

The Bank of Ireland, which pos- 
sesses an additional interest from 
its having been the old Parlia- 
ment House. It was purchased from 
the Government for 40,000Z., after 
the Act of Union, by the Bank of 
Ireland Company. The whole of it 
was built, though at three separate 
intervals, during the last cent., at a 
cost of nearly 100,000?. Externally 
it consists of a magnificent Ionic front 
and colonnades, the centre occupying 
three sides of a receding square. The 
principal porch is supported by 4 
Ionic pillars, and is surmounted by 
a pediment with the Eoyal arms, 
and a statue of Hibernia, with Fi- 
delity and Commerce on each side, 
the last 2 having been modelled by 
Flaxman. The open colonnade ex- 
tends round the square to the wings, 
and is flanked on each side by a 



Ireland. 



Route 1. — Public Building 8. 



ty entrance arch. This main front, 
which was the earliest portion of 
the building, and said to have 
been the design of Cassels, is con- 
nected with the B. and W. feces by 
a circular acn en wall, with projecting 
columns and niches in the intervj 
The E. front, Looking down College 
Green, was a subsequent addition, 

1. by some in© insistency, | 
a Corinthian porch of (J columns. 
Over the tympanum is a statue of 
V rtitude. The W. Bront is the latest 

all, and has an Ionic portico. Ad- 
joining this si . which is in I" 
Place, is a guard-room, approached 
by an archway with Ionic columns. 
Internally the visitor should he 

principal Hall, or Cash Office, form- 
urt of R< ts, which 
i- entered through the main portico. 
It is a handsome room, decorated 
in th lassical st; le as the ex- 

Tiie old H of" Lords is not 

rticularly strikin . In the re- 

• hrone used to be, is 

by Bacon, of George III., in 

his Parliamentary robes. Of more 

are 2 large ta] a of t 

of Deny and the Battle of the 

. 

application to 

. an order can be ob- 

I toe operal f >r pnnt- 

the i. . the machinery for 

7" 1 Post sten- 

buildi] W. of fi kville 

- buill for ■ '/. in 

1 U5. hi the centre La a portico, also 

1 r, with o' Urn d 

] la pedimenl with the 

Boyal arm Lding the 

balustrad • and cornice round the 

"lit has a bald app< 

/ ' a II- Eden 

I srii le Bridj 
rnally it is tic- finest building in 
ll din. 

. . 
•, the prin T 



front has a centre Doric portico, 

with a sculpture in the tympanum of 
the Union of England and 1 1 land. 

They are represented as seated on a 
Bhell, while Neptune is driving away 
Famine and Despair. From the por- 
tico extend wings, the ha.-' mcnl por- 
tion of which is occupied by open 
arcades, while the summit is finished 
off by an entablature and cornice. 

Flanking each end of those wings 
are 2 "pavilions," above which are 
the arms of Ireland. The other 
fronts are in the same . hut 

plainer, and the carrying round of 
the open arc;: light 

and graceful effect. Tic in i is 
occupied by 2 courts and a cen- 
tral pile of building, from which 
springs a tine dome, crowned by a 
monster statue of Hope, Tie: Cus- 
tom House poss a what very f! 
Loudon buildings can boastf viz., 
an open space all round, so as to 
allow it to be seen to advantage. 

When all the different Boards of 
Customs were consolidated into a 

al department in London, thj 
building was well nigh emptied, but 
i- now used as offices for the Poor- 
Daw Commissioners. Board of Public 
Works,, aial Inland R< venue. 

The Exchange is in Cork Hill, at 
the top of Dame St.. and commands 
from its portico a long avenue of 
Btreets, Looking down Parliam< id St., 
ESss x Bridge, and ( Sapel St. It \e «f 

I lorinthian order, and is a squa 
building of 3 fronts. The N. or 
principal face has a portieo of <; co- 
lumn-. The entablature, wh" 
highly decorated, is continued round 
Hi.' :; sid< s, ;i- o an elaborate 

Lustrade on the summit, 
when- interrupted by the pediment 

ih.- \. j ortico. In th" e a! 
door, though BO low that v ra ly 

( >wing to tin- rapid incline 
of the Btreet, the end of the b rn 

the W. is "ii :• 1' vel with it, but i 
the B, is con riderably hi 

in th within the 



8 



Route 1. — Dublin. 



Ireland. 



square, and contains statues of 
George III. ; Dr. Lucas, some time 
MP. for Dublin ; Grattan ; and 
O'Connell. 

The Commercial Buildings and 
Stock Exchange are in Dame St., but 
do not offer anything very special. 

The Four Courts is a splendid 
and extensive pile, occupying the 
whole area of King's Inn Quay, be- 
tween the Richmond and Whitworth 
Bridges. It was built at an ex- 
] use of 200,0007. at the end of the 
1; 4 cent., a portion being the work 
Mr. Cooley, the architect of the 
Royal Exchange ; but after his death 
the remainder was finished by Mr. 
Gandon. It consists of a centre, 
fianked on each side by squares re- 
cessed back from the front, the conti- 
nuity of which, however, is preserved 
by arcades of rusticated masonry. 

The principal front is entered under 
a portico of 6 Corinthian columns, 
having on the apex of the pediment 
a statue of Moses in the middle, with 
Justice and Mercy on each side. 
This leads into the central division, 
which externally is a square block 
of buildings, surmounted by a cir- 
cular lantern and dome. Internally 
the square is occupied by the 4 
Courts of Chancery, Queen's Bench, 
Common Pleas, and Exchequer, each 
of which occupies one of the angles, 
leaving the centre of the dome free, 
t' ) form a noble hall, which in term 
1 ne is the high 'change of lawyers. 
The panels over the entrances to the 
( flirts exhibit : — 1. William the Con- 
qneror instituting Courts of Justice; 
2. King John signing the Magna 
Charta ; 3. Henry II. granting the 
first charter to the Dublin inhabi- 
tants; 4. James I. abolishing the 
Br< ■] ion Laws. Between the windows 
i the dome are allegorical statues of 
Punishment, Eloquence, Mercy, Pru- 
dence, Law, Wisdom, Justice, and 
Liberty. Besides these 4 principal 
Courts the wings and other por- 
tions of the building contain several 
minor courts and oifices, which are 



almost entirely consolidated in this 
single locality. There is, however, 
another law establishment at the 

Kings Inn, fronting the Constitu- 
tion Hill, and nearly opposite to, 
though on a much lower level than, 
the Great Western stat. Dublin did 
not possess an Inn of Court until 
the time of Edward I., in whose 
reign Collet's Inn was established ; 
this was succeeded by Preston's 
Inn, but both were in course of time 
pulled down, obliging the societies to 
migrate elsewhere. Towards the 
close of the last cent, the present 
building was raised. It consists of a 
centre, crowned by an octangular cu- 
pola, and flanked by 2 wings of 2 
stories, surmounted by a pediment. 
In this establishment are held the 
Consistorial, Probate, and Prerogative 
Courts. 

The Castle is situated on high 
ground at the top of Dame-st., ad- 
joining the Royal Exchange. Archi- 
tecturally speaking, there is little 
to admire in either of the 2 courts 
round which the buildings are 
grouped. Entering by the prin- 
cipal gateway from Cork Hill is the 
upper quadrangle, containing the 
Viceregal apartments (on the S. side), 
and the offices of the Chief Secretary 
for Ireland and officers of the House- 
hold. Between the 2 entrances on 
the N. side the facade is surmounted 
by a cupola, from the top of which 
a flag is hoisted on State days. 

The principal objects in the State 
apartments are the Presence Chamber 
and St. Patrick's Hall or Ball-room, 
which contains a ceiling painted with 
the following subjects : — St. Patrick 
converting the Irish ; Henry II. re- 
ceiving the submission of the Irish 
chiefs ; and (in the centre) George III., 
supported by Liberty and Justice. 

In the lower court are offices of the 
Treasury, Registry, Auditor-General, 
&c. ; and on the S. side the Round 
Tower and the Chapel. 

The former building was erected in 
place of one more ancient, known 



\\p. Boute l.—Thi Castle— Trinity College. 



o 



- the Birmingham Tower, which 

n sionally used as a State 

p] 1 1 is also called the Ward- 

r Tower, from the fact of the 

R >ya1 rob ng kept in ii ; 

bul i 3 now almost entirely occupied 

with tl. es and staff of the Ke- 

. which include in their valuable 

-its the pedigrees of the nobility 

eland since Eenry VIII. ; re- 

- of grants of arms- plea-rolls of 

all the Courts from 1246 to t625; 

te Parliament ; referen 

all grants of manors, lands, titles, 

fairs, markets, &c. 

1 apel is a single aisle, with- 

out nave or transept, and is altogether 

U of [rish limestone, in a style of 

Externally n the 

Is, which arc over 

in number, including all the 

of Britain ; and over the 

N. the rather singular juxtapo- 

busts of St. Peter and 

1) . >\\ i ft. 

is lighted by 6 pointed 

>ws on each side and a fine 

id . window : subject, 

>re Pilat The present 

replaced an older one in 

1814, at a c 42,0002. 

lion of Dublin Castle at the 

aent of the 13th cent, is 

ascril M- yl« r Fitzhenry, natural 

to Hei v [ f. : and the completion 

to He iry de L odes, Arch- 

1 i iblin in 1223. Ii was 

then built for and held as a fortn bs, 

and was d< 1 by a single curtain 

1 flanM] _• i sfi rs, 
Tounded by a deep moat. In the 
i it wi - appro- 
ridence of the Vi 
which honourable duty ir I 
fulfilled, at Least officially, 
y r>n Stel i that 

lant makes hi- ap- 
. 'I'h' < astle may be 
e Locale of the nidi 
rnment, 'in hence all the 

»f the Clu 
■ ther wiili t' 
. military, and j The 



coin-is are seen to best advantage in 
the ion-noon, when the guard 

anged to the pleasant accompani- 
ment of a full band. The great ex- 
citement takes place, however, duri 
the 91 ason, when the Viceroy gn 
his levees, to which all Dublin 
is eligible makes a point of going. 

At the bottom of Dame St., and 
forming a grand point of jun< 
\'<n- Dame, Grafton, and Westmore- 
land sts.. is 

Trinity College, the cradle of much 

rningandwit, and the Alma 3 
of as Ion-- a roll of names honour- 
able in science and Literature i - any 

I oflearningin the world can boast. 
'I' ,c principal front is a Corinthian fa- 
cade, facing College Green; while the 
main premises, i ccupying altogether 
an area of 30 acres, run back a consi- 
derable distance, occupying the inter- 
val between Nassau and Brunswick 
Sts. The interior is divided into 
several quadrangles. The first, or 
Parliament Square, contains the 
chapel, marked externally by a colon- 
nade of Corinthian pillars; on the 
S. side the theatre for examinatio] 
in which are portraits of bene- 
factors and one of Elizabeth, the 
foundress of the University; also a 
monument to Provost Baldwin, 17.' 
who bequeathed 80,000Z.; the i 
fectory, or dining-hall, in which a 

n-aits of Henry Flood; ( 
Justice Downs ; ( rrattan ; Fn derio 
Prince of Wales; Cox. Archbi 
of Cashel ; Provost Baldwin, &c, 

The Library, in Library Square, is 
a lino building, -270 ft. Long, ate 
Corinthian order. The interior 
conveniently fitted up for the purp 
of reading, and contains L0,( 
volumes, together with many rare 
curiosities, such ;i- the Egyptian 
hieroglyphic U< ct< d by Salt the 
traveller. Connected with this room 
i- on.- in which IB dep sit- d \, 
Page] Library, bo called from 
having 1>« en the property of ;i family 
of that name in Holland. i 
.a, howevi r, is tl 
j 



10 



Route 1. — Dublin. 



Ireland, 



Manuscript - loom, in which ore 
Archbishop Usher's collection, Val- 
iancy's Irish MSS., Johnston's Ice- 
landic MSS., and Overbury's MSS. 
of Persia. Of Irish MSS. "the col- 
lection in Trinity College consists of 
over 1-10 vols., several of them on 
vellum, dating from the early part of 
the 12th, down to the middle of the 
last cent. There are also beautiful 
copies of the Gospels known as the 
Books of Kells and Durrow; and 
Dinma's Book, attributable to the 
6th and 7th cents. The Saltair of St, 
Ricemarch, Bishop of St. Davids in 
the 11th cent., contains also an ex- 
quisite copy of the Roman Martyr- 
ology, and a very ancient Hiero- 
nymian version of the Gospels, the 
history of which is unknown, but 
which is evidently an Irish MS. of 
not later than the 9th cent. ; also the 
Evangelistarium of St. Malins, Bishop 
of Ferns in the 7th cent., with its 
ancient box, and numerous Ossianic 
poems relating to the Fenian heroes, 
some of very great antiquity." — Prof. 
O'Currey. 

The Museum, over the entrance 
gateway, contains a number of in- 
teresting though miscellaneous ar- 
ticles, and amongst them the harp of 
Brian Boroimhe, whose son Do- 
nogh presented it to the Pope in 
1)23. In his turn he gave it to 
Henry V III., who passed it over to 
the first Earl of Clanricarde, and from 
him through several hands, until it 
finally rested here. 

Besides the squares described, there 
are Park Square and Botany Bay 
Square, principally for the accom- 
modation of students. On the N. side 
of the former is the Printing House, 
enterc d by a Doric portico. 

To the S. of the Library is the 
Fellows* Garden, with the Magnetic 
Observatory, the first of the kind 

•r established. The Transactions 
of the British Association embody 
most of the scientific observations 

at have been carried on here by 
Prof. Lloyd and the Irish astronomers. 



Adjoining these gardens is a pleasant 
park for the use of the students, well 
planted and laid out, and looking on 
to Nassau St. At the W. end, facing 
Grafton St., is the Provost's House. 
The University dates from 1591, when 
Archbishop Usher procured from 
Elizabeth a charter and " mortmain 
licence for the site of the dissolved 
monastery of All Saints." The con- 
stitution of the Corporation at present 
consists of a provost, 7 senior fellows, 
28 junior fellows, and 70 scholars, 
and the average number of students 
is about 1500. 

The Roman Catholic University is 
situated on the W. side of Stephen's 
Green. It is quite modern, having 
been only established in 1854. Dub- 
lin does not possess many public 
statues or monuments. The princi- 
pal one is 

Nelsons Pillar, occupying a con- 
spicuous position in the centre of 
Sackville Street. It is a Doric co- 
lumn, 134 ft. in height, the summit 
of which is crowned by the statue of 
Nelson leaning against the capstan 
of a ship. It is worth ascending for 
the sake of the panorama of the 
city. 

The Wellington Testimonial is de- 
scribed at p. 14. 

In College Green is a bronze eques- 
trian statue of William III., on a 
marble pedestal, — the object of ve- 
hement adoration and hatred in 
years gone by, when it was the 
custom to decorate it with orange 
ribbons, as the usual prelude to a 
party fight. Fortunately the strong 
arm of the law has stepped in to 
control those passions which could 
not be guided by moderation and 
common sense. 

In front of the Mansion House in 
Dawson Street is an equestrian statue 
of George I. In Stephen's Green 
there is one of George II. ; and George 
III. is placed in the Bank of Ireland 
and the Royal Exchange. A memo- 
rial to the late Sir Philip Crampton 
lias been placed at the top of Bruns- 



Ireland. 



Route 1. — Societies — National Gallery, 



11 



f : and one to Goldsmith, 

.in Trinity College. 

Th >il Dublin > holds 

meetings in Kildare Street, 

rraerly the residence of the Duke 

I. insi r, the grounds extending 

le of Mer- 

ri d Square. Ir boasts the honour 

of b< ing the oldest Society in the 

lorn, for it was incorporated 

in 1750, and 1ms been in theenjoy- 

nt of Parliamentary grants for 

m< an \M) y The visitor 

can ■ the library which contains 

Is. di ily, on introduction 

I y b i mb r : and the Natural 1 1 

v Museum on Mondays. Wedm 

d ys, an<l Friday-, tn e — on the re- 

menl of 6<f. 
Irish >/ should 

be - en by every .-indent of Irish 
lii- tiquities. Visitors are 

1 on Wednesdays, Thursda; 
and Fridays, on a member's intro- 
The Museum contains a 
•mplete and classified 9 of early 
- of all kinds that have 
found in Ireland, for 
the admirable arrangement of which 
t only the Academy, but every 
y owes a debt of gratitude 
to Sir W. Wilde, who has devoted an 
immense amount of time and know- 
in rendering t\iv Museum not 
so : nd ends. 

as an' xj si fthe social featun - 

►untryfrom the earliest times to 
TJ gue written 

m Le m< >re b history of Irish An- 
n a m 

hould pay particular 

tanent of celts, 

row-hi I flini implements; 

telytx autiful earth* n 

mortuary urn work of which will 

minute inspection. 
I ion of L r <>ld on - 
2 I , 
: imon by native 

1 bout 1 123, and contain- 

ing v supposed to be a pi< 

inscri] in 

I i in tJ I sh ch.'i 



upon two of its sides distinctly re- 
cord. The ornaments generally con- 
sisi of tracery and grotesque animals, 
fancifully combined, and Bimilar in 
character to the decorations found 
upon crosses of stone of the same 
period. A large crystal, through 
which a. portion (^i^ the wood which 

the cross Was formed to enshrine is 

visible, is set in the 'centre, at the in- 
tersection." — Wilde. 

The Museum of Iris]! Industry is 
well worth a visit. It is on the E. 
side of Stephen's Green, and contains 
a series of geological, mineralogical , 
and chemical specimens, to exhibit 
the economic resources of Ireland. 
Tt is also the head-quarters of the 
I ological Survey, and n it, 

about to visit the interior of the 
country, should leave Dublin without 
consulting the officersof the Survey, 
who are at all times most ready and 
anxious to furnish information. Ad- 
mission is free. 

The Irish National Gallery, on N. 
side of Leinster Lawn, opened 1864, 
is devoted to collections of works of 
the Fine Arts, the lower story to 
sculpture, the upper to paintings. 
The c<^i has been defrayed by Parlia- 
mentary grants to the amount of 
21,00<M.,and 50002. from the Dargan 
Fund. On the opposite side of the 
Square is the Museum of Natural 
History. The brom t Mr. 

William Dargan Btands on the 
of the Great Exhibition building oi 
i B53, inaugurated by his munificen 

In addition to the libraries ^\' the 
University, Irish Academy, and Dub- 
lin Society, there is a public oi 
known 

Marsh's or Sf. Patrick's J 
open to everybody, and situated eh 

St. Pi 's I thedral. It o 

tain- about 18,0* vol- . and an* 
them the Whole of th 
Stillingfleet, I p of Won 
which was purchased and placed 
there by Ajrchbish< | I 69 L. 

Tht <'<<ih, dral oj ' 

a little to \ ] 6 • he ri\- 



V2 



Route 1. — Dublin — Christ 9 s Church Cathedral. Ireland. 



and to the W. of the Castle, in an 
unprepossessing neighhourhood. It 
is said to have brm built in 1038 by 

trio, son of Amlave* King* of the 
Ostmen of Dublin; and lest there 
■ ould be any jealousy between the 
two cathedrals, an agreement was 
made that Christ Church should have 
the precedence as being the elder, 
but that the Archbishops should be 
buri i d alternately in the one and the 
other. As it at present stands, since 
the restoration in 1833, it is a vener- 
able cruciform ch., consisting of nave, 
transepts, and choir, with a rather low 
tower rising from the intersection. 
The principal entrance is in the S. 
transept, through a fine Norman door- 
way. The nave, which is 103 ft. in 
length, has a northern aisle. The 
S. wall fell down in 1562, and was re- 
placed by the present one, the erec- 
tion of which is commemorated by a 

ne inserted in the wall. 

The northern aisle is separated 
from the nave by a row of beautiful 
E. Eng. arches springing from piers 
of clustered columns, and displaying 
chevron mouldings ; and said to be 
the most ancient portion of the cathe- 
dral. Unfortunately their bases are 
buried under the pavement. " The 
capitals are particularly graceful 
and elegant. They are composed 
of the usual E. Eng. stiff-leaved 
foliage, enclosing heads of bishops 
and female saints. The mode in 
which the slender shafts between 
tli _erones are made to hold the 

foliage that springs from them is 
singularly beautiful." The nave con- 
tains the following monuments : to Sir 
Samuel Auchmuty; Thomas Prior, 
1751, the friend of Bishop Berkeley ; 
Lord Bowes, Chancellor of Ireland, 
1767; Bishop of Meath, 1733; and 
Lord Lifford, Bigh Chancellor, 1789. 
The most interesting one is that of 
Strongbow and his wife Eva, with 
the following inscription above it: — 

" This :avncyent : monvment : of: Iivch- 
ard : Strangbowe : called: Comes: Strangv- 
lensis : Lord ; of : Chops to : and : ogny : the : 



fyrst : and : principall : invader : of : Irland : 
1169 : qvi : obiit : llll : the : monvment: 
was : broken : by : the : fall : of : the : roff : 
and : bodye : of : Crystes : chvrche : in : An : 
1502 : and : set : up : agayn : at : the : 
chargys : of : the : Right : Honorable : Sr ; 
Henlri : Sidney : Knyght : of : the : Noble : 
Order : L. : President : Wailes : L. : Deputy : 
of: Irland: 1570."* 

The N. transept is remarkable for its 
fine Norm, windows, which were re- 
stored in 1833, when the whole of 
the transept from the height of the 
doorway was rebuilt. The choir is 
separated from the nave by a screen, 
on which is the organ. The interior 
is rendered heavy by the ceiling being 
intersected with quadrangular mould- 
ings, with bosses at the intersections. 
The objects worthy of notice in it are 
an altar composed of green scagliola, 
and the monuments of the Earl of Kil- 
dare and Francis Agard, 1577. The 
musical service in Christ Church is 
particularly good, and is held in 
high estimation by the citizens, who 
always attend in great numbers. 

Its younger sister, the Cathedral of 
St, Patrick, is situated more to the 
S., between Stephen's Green and the 
district known as the Liberties. 
It is a fine cruciform ch. with a 
low tower surmounted by a granite 
spire rising from the N.W. angle, 
and is a good example of the Early 
Pointed style. The spire, however, 
is an addition of the last cent. 
" The body of the ch. consists of a 
nave with aisles ; a N. and S. tran- 
sept, each with a western aisle ; a 
choir with two aisles of great length, 
in comparison with the nave ; and a 
Lady-chapel. The aisles of the 
choir are carried out beyond the E. 
end as far as half the length of the 
Lady chapel, which, on the exterior, 
appears almost detached, as it is so 
much lower than the choir. The 
latter is supported by flying but- 
tresses over the aisles, one of which 
at each angle is very remarkable 

* Notwithstanding this inscription, the 
armorial bearings seem to throw discredit 
on the fact of the tomb being that of 
StroDgbow. 



i ! LffD. 



\de l.—St. Patrick's Cathedral 



13 



for the period at which it was 
er being carried diagonally, 

tli • usual mode being to have them 
ancles to the Bides and 
•I." The expense oi the restora- 
i has been entirely defrayed by 
the princely munificence of one man, 
A. ( j mi . Esq., who has devoted 

an enormous sum of money to this 
ble work. It is to be regretted, 
wever, that Borne of the faults of 
the old building have boon per- 
petuated in tin 1 now one, "Copy- 
; carried on with the 
praiseworthy care, but un- 
fortunately the had has boon copied 
h the same care as the good ; 
Drove that tin's censure is 
not unmerited, the N.E. angle will 
>w th.it E. Eng. pinnacles, which 
in late times been restored 
b P< rp. panelling, are retained 
< auine in the new restoration." 
ve is separated from the 
le aisles by 8 pointed arches with 
■ 1 pi< rs. The transepts, also, 
vo ais - separated by 3 arches. 
W. Perp.) window was pre- 
ted to the Cathedral by Dr. Daw- 
. he late Dean. 

The choir is 90 ft. long, and is a 
of Early Pointed ar- 
chitecture. - ; It was formerly roofed 
with a flags of an azure colour, 

ill with stars Id; but 

nt oi the roof 1 

rt undei . it v« 

red, and discovered tz f lou 

windows. I y. 11 contains the 
tlr i f the Archbishop, and the 
bendal stalls and throne of the 
S . Patrick, over i ach one 
e helmet, sword, and banner 
i rd< r. 
i 1 triforium, and the 

S transept should b 
ularly noticed. The choir is 
I from the Lady Chapel by 
d arch with deeply i' cessed 
uldings and cluster^ d columns. 
I ' !ontains on the whole 

d more into 
:i of monuments than Chri 



Church. The principal are those of 

Archbishop Smith, 1771 ; Bishop 

Marsh, the founder of the library ; the 

Earl of Cavan, 1778 ; Mrs. Best 

Johnson, otherwise ' Stella, the friend 

of Sw id. There is also one of the 

Dean himself, with an epitaph, the 

bitterness of which sufficienl ly reveals 

the anther : — 

" \"i >i Bseva indiguatio ulterius cor lacerare 
neqult." 

Tn the choir is one of those immense 
and massive monuments in which the 
family of the Earls of Cork seemed 
to delight, and which contains a Large 
number of figures, remarkable for the 
fr< shnessof the colouring. In the np- 
•parl is I ) an Weston ; and beneath 
i. Sir ( o oflr< y Kenton and his wife. 
Still lower are the Earl and Countess 
of Cork, with 4 Bons kneeling by them, 
and at the bottom are their 6 daugh- 
ter ther with a child, supposed to 
be Sir Robert Boyle. Opposite this 
gigantic tomb is a slab in memory of 
Duke Schomberg, with an epitaph 
by Swift, which gave mortal offence 
to George I., who declared that "the 
Dean of St. Patrick's had put it there 
out of malice in order to stir up a 
quarrel between himself and the King 
of Prussia; who bad married Schom- 
berg's granddaughter.'' 

The remaining monuments of 
note are those of Sir E. Fytton, Lord 
Pr< aidenl of Connaught, and in the 
\. transept of the 18th Royal [rish, 
representing the death of Col. Tom- 
linson a1 ( Ihappoo, and I be storming 
the Pagoda a1 Rangoon. A portion of 
the s. transept was formerly known 
as the Chap I of St. Paul or the ( >ld 
( ihapter House, and is Baid to have 
b en the prison of the [nquisition. 
In it should be noticed the st< ps and 
enamelled tiles Leading up to the 
altar. The approaches to St Pa- 
trick, which are very bad, and no 
wonder, considering thai ii tu- 

ated id one of the worsl parts of 1 1 
city, arc about to l>« much improved. 
in.nt of the S.1 statue 

by Foley to Mr, Guinni bs is to be 



11 



Route 1. — Dublin. 



Irelakd. 



placed, and one to Dean Swift is 
also in contemplation. 

The organ is fine-toned, and 

was originally built for a church in 
Vigo. 

Amongst the most noticeable of 
the Dublin churches are the follow- 
in- :— 

On the S. side — St. Aiidoens, be- 
tween Christ Church and the Corn 
Market. Here are some good speci- 
mens of Early Pointed architecture, 
although in ruins ; the only portion of 
the ch. that is used being the N. aisle 
of the ancient building, which con- 
sisted originally of a double aisle, 
separated by 6 octagonal columns, 
supporting pointed arches. The choir 
and side aisle were built by Lord Port- 
lester, who also erected a tomb w T ith 
the recumbent figures of a knight 
and his lady. This ch. is the burial- 
place of Dr. Parry, Bishop of Kil- 
laloe; Sir Matthew Terrell, 1649; 
and the Molyneux family ; and con- 
tains several monuments of wood. 

St. Werberrfs, near the Castle, 
has a mixed front and several stories 
of the Corinthian and Ionic orders. 
In the interior are monuments of 
ecclesiastics and knights; and in 
the vaults lie the remains of Lord 
Edward Fitzgerald, who died of 
wounds received during his arrest in 
1798. This ch., like its sister in 
Bristol, is dedicated to St. Werberg, 
daughter of Wulherus, King of 
Mercia. 

St. Andrew's, between Grafton and 
Dame Streets, is now being rebuilt, 
and will be, when finished, a beauti- 
ful building. The old ch., which was 
burnt down, was an imitation of Sta. 
Maria di Rotonda at Borne, and was 
generally called the Pound Church. 

On the N. side of the Liffcy are 
St. Micha/nls, near the Four Courts, 
the vaults of which were celebrated 
for the extraordinary powers of pre- 
servation of the bodies within it. In 
the corpses of people who 
had been buried for 30 years were 
found to be perfectly free from decay, 



a circumstance in all probability at- 
tributable to the extreme dryness of 
the vaults, and the ability of the 
stones to resist moisture. In the in- 
terior of the ch. is a monument to 
Dr. Lucas, M.P. for Dublin, whose 
statue is in the City Hall. 

In the very N. of the city near 
Mount] oy Square, is St. George's, 
which has a lofty tower, steeple, and 
portico, erected in 1802 from designs 
by Johnston, at a cost of 90,000L 

The remaining chs. do not present 
any very particular objects of inter- 
est. They are St. Michael and St. 
John's, St. Kevin's, and St. Peter's, 
all in .the neighbourhood of Christ 
Church and St. Patrick's ; St. Ann's, 
in Dawson Street (where Mrs. Hemans 
and Csesar Otway are buried, and 
where the musical service is well 
done), St. Bride's, St. Mary's, St. 
Stephen's (in Upper Mount Street) 
St.Catherine's, St. James's, St. Paul's, 
St. Luke's, and St. Mark's. 

Of the Roman Catholic Chapels, 
the tourist should see the Metro- 
politan Chapel in Marlborough-st. 
(a little to the E. of Sackville-st.), 
which has a Doric front with a hexa- 
style portico raised on a platform, 
and a pediment ornamented with 
figures of the Virgin, St. Patrick, and 
St. Lawrence O'Toole. The interior 
has a nave and aisles^ and a beautiful 
white marble altar. 

St. Andrew's, near the "Westland 
Row Terminus, is worth visiting for 
the sake of a fine group represent- 
ing the Transfiguration, the work of 
Hogan, one of the greatest sculptors 
that Ireland ever produced. 

The Chapel of St. Saviour's, in 
Dominick-st., has one of the most 
elaborately decorated fronts in the 
whole city, and a particularly elegant 
rose window. A new chapel, in good 
taste, has recently been built at 
Phibsborough in the N. of the 
city. 

The Phoenix Park is the Utopia of 
every citizen of Dublin, who believes 
that there is nothing in the world like 



\xr>. BotUe 1. — Zoological Gardens — Botunda. 



15 



it: it is in truth an adjunct of which ] 

ity might be proud, containing 

I L759 acres, of which 1300 

open to the public. The prin- 

jects in it are the Wellington 

timonial near the S.E, gate, a 

ive obelisk, on a pedestal <'t' 

mite, on the 1 si lea of which are 

la ami inscriptions commemo- 

' all the victories gained by 

Duke during bis long career, 

:1 height of the obelisk is 

and the cost of it v 

\ . 0J. From the knoll on which 

memorial is placed, as also from 

[ I r/iim Fort a little to the E., 

views of Dublin 

are to he obtained. 

In the N.E. portion of the park 

are the / I G lens, which 

• utain a tolerable collection, to- 

ther with the 1 , which is 

principal r» sidence of the 

1. >rd Lieutenant, the h< >f the 

Und< r 8 cretary, and 

b bulary Barracks. Near to 

the W. are the Mountjoy Barracks, 

1 <m the S. side is the Hibernian 

shool, where 400 boys, sons 

of soldiers, are educated. 

Tie- i d extremity extends as 

as C Jtleknock, and the Straw- 
b rry B - D the X. bank of the 
Li : v. No tourist should quit Dub- 
Liu with king a drive round the 
k. 

Th E 7 -'. at the t >p of Sack- 

s of public 
rta ami meet- 
nail y, how ii is 
I by th..- superior architecture 
Lying-in Hospital, which ha 
a towards Gr< 
kedoneachsideby 
'j' • irminated by por- 
ti I that 
udid line of building was 
laced a little m the E.,wh 
it would have terminated the vista of 

Such was the oi 
ii, tli-- foul i >r. 

M Ued wit 1 I 1 Mount- 

j a rofthi :id. 



Kilmaiuham Hospital, a little to the 
S.W. of BLingsbridge, is built on thi 
site of tin 1 <»ld priory of Kilmainham, 
an establishment of Knights Tem- 
plars,in 1174, and was turned Into an 
asylum for invalid soldiers in L690. 
It consists of a quadrangle- encircling 
a court, said to have been built 
from designs by Sir Christopher 
Wren, The visitor will Bee in the 
dining-hall a collection of por- 
traits of celebrities of the nth and 
18th ecids. The altar-screen in the 
chapel is of Irish oak, carved by 
Grinling Gibb i 

The handsome building for the 
Gnat Irish Exhibition of 1865 in- 
clude s ;i Winter-Garden, filled with 
beautiful plants. It was built at the 
principal cost of Mr. Guinnef 

The remaining institutions of 
Dublin are the Royal College of 
Surgeons on the E. side of Stephen's 
Green (th >mical Museum 

of which is well worth seeing), 
Stevens' Hospital, City Hospital, 
Sir Patrick Dunn's, Simpson's, 
Mercer's, Swift's Hospitals, Rich- 
mond Lunatic Asylum, and many 
others of lesser uote; indeed, few 
cities are so well provided with institu- 
tions and societies for charitable pur- 
posesofall , The antiquary will 
]•, rhapsl tppointed in the modern 

d of Dublin, anil in the Pew old 
buildings that remain. Indeed, with 
the except] the ancient Archie- 

pisoopa] Palace in Kevin-st., now 
n- d ;is ;i police barrack, there arc uo 
hous - ' tor to the common' - 

menl of the I I cent. The Liberties 
will howeverfui lish many specimi 
of the time of Queen Anne, particu- 
larly in B They were 
once the abode of the rank and fashion 
rind, bni at the popu- 
i!i:ii inhabit them are uot of the 
,.]i <\ scription, and the tourist 
may possibly obtain fe >re 
not lan may b Suf- 
ficient 1 

out the h in- 

and it 



16 



Route 1. — Dublin. 



Ireland. 



only renin ins to direct the visitor to 
the things most worth seeing in the 
suburbs : — 

1. Kingstown by rail has been 
already described (p. 2). Trains run 
every j hour through the day. 

'J. To Clonskea, Sandford, and 
Ranelagh, there are omnibuses from 
Nelson's Pillar. The route is through 
Westmoreland St., College Green, rt. 
Bank, 1. Trinity College, Grafton St., 
Stephen's Green, Harcourt St., and 
Oharlemont St., at the end of which 
the Grand Canal is crossed. 

2.} m. Donnybrook, on the N. bank 
of the Dodder, is celebrated for its fair, 
which with its noisy mirth and pug- 
nacity has become known throughout 
all the civilised world as the arena 
for breaking heads : — 

" An Irishman all in his glory was there, 
"With his sprig of shillelagh and shamrock 
so green." 

It is now fortunately abolished, for, 
though the humours of Donnybrook 
were many, they were far counter- 
balanced by the riot and misery that 
the fair occasioned. Continuing S. 
this road leads to Stillorgan, passing 
a great many villas and residences, 
amongst which that of Mount Mer- 
rion, belonging to the late Lord 
Herbert of Lea, is conspicuous on rt. 

3. To Eathfarnham, the greater 
portion of the distance is traversed 
1 >y omnibus every \ of an hour from 
Sackville-st. 

2 m Eathmines is a very populous 
and respectable suburb, although 
it formerly had an infamous noto- 
riety for the slaughter of the early 

Lglish colonists of Dublin by the 
Irish of Wicklow. i The route fol- 
lowed is the same as in the last 
up to the end of Harcourt St., 
where there is a divergence to the 
rt., the Eathmines road crossing the 
canal near the Portobello Barracks. 

At 3 m. Eound Town, a road to 
rt. is given off to Blcssington and 

• as, while that to Eathfarnham 
rui - 8., passing rt. Terenure House 
and crossing the Dodder. 



3J m. Eathfarnham. Here is the 
College of St. Columba, for the edu- 
cation of students for the Protestant 
ministry. The castle was formerly 
the seat of the Loftus family, but 
now of Lord Justice Blackburne. 
The grounds are pretty, and worth 
driving through. If the tourist wishes 
to ascertain what romantic scenery 
exists near Dublin, he may follow 
up the Dodder to its source in 
Glanasmole, or the Valley of the 
Thrush, a river which Wordsworth 
was accustomed to say was not much 
inferior to the Dudclon. Southward 
the road leaves to 1. the Loretto Con- 
vent, and continues through Will- 
brook to Bray, passing 1. Marley 
(D. La Touehe, Esq.), then on, rt. 
Mount Venus with its cromlech, and 
so through the Scalp (Ete. 24). 

4. To Lucan, through Chapel Izod 
and Palmerstown, the road runs 
past the Eoyal Hospital of Kilmain- 
ham, and crosses the Great Southern 
and Western Ely. at Inchicore. 
Chapel Izod is supposed to have 
obtained its name from La Belle 
Isode, a daughter of one of the Irish 
kings who possessed a chapel here. 
The lands that formerly belonged 
to the Knights Templars of Kilmain- 
ham, came into the possession of the 
Knights of Jerusalem until the dis- 
solution of the monasteries, when 
they were purchased by the Crown, 
and taken to enclose the Phoenix 
Park, which, though on the opposite 
side of the river, is in this parish. 
A little further on is Palmerstown, 
which gives the title to the family 
of Temple. Adjoining the village are 
Palmerstown House and St. Law- 
rence House, both on the S. bank 
of the Liffey. 

9 m. Lucan (Ete. 14). 

5. To Clondalkin, by road either 
from Kilmainham, turning off from 
the Lucan road at Inchicore, or by 
a more southerly course near the 
village of Crumlin. 3J m. on rt. is 
the well-preserved castle of Drim- 
nagh, a remarkably perfect bawn 



I :land. 



7/ mte 1. — Suburbs. 



17 



It was considered b 
place of great strength during the 
rebelli L641. 

. . ( londalMn, a pretty village 
an ion on the Greal Southern 

and Western Rly., ia famous for its 
mid tower, the construction of which 
J l \ P< trie Likens to thai of Bronllys 
( astle in Breconshire. Clondalkin 
remarkable for its projecting base 
niy 13 t't. in height, and com- 
bed of solid masonry. "The aper- 
tures are all quadrangular, the jambs 

the doorway inclining as in th< - 

of the oldest church The total 

- 84 t't. 

The abbot St. Mochna, who lived 

in the 7th cent., was the founder 

of the of Oluain Dolcain, 

ical establishment of 

Nothing is now 

: to mark it but the tower, and a 

g mite cr tea in the chyarcL The 

irist can i\ turn to Duhlin by rail. 

I to Blanchardstown is 

the N". hank of the river, imme- 

y opposite the preceding and 

whole length of the 

1 ' It then i gate of 

K lockmaroon, and through the vil- 

stleknock to Blanchards- 

. 14). 

7. Glasnevin Glaseen-even, "the 

nt little field" is a ?ery pretty 

thern suburb ; the way to it 

the Midland Great 

I Broadstone and 

i a through ibsborough. It 

th< Liff! y I r nch of the 

I il, h aving on 1. the 

Prospect Cemetery, where, amo 

iv other celebrities, the r« mains 

John Phil] ' irrau lie buried. 

A v< ry ugly and conspicuous Round 

I to the int. - 
• < » ' mnell. 

tevin cue f«<r its bo- 

s, which are upwards 

- in • xt< nt. and contain a 

i .tie p] 

leavour t the 

- in the ; i of th<- curator, 

illy the Trichoma 



the fern peculiar to Killarney. The 
demesne qow occupied by the gaiS 
d. ns originally belonged to Tick 11 
the poet, who resided lure; indeed, 
this was a favourite neighbourho d 
amongst the litterateurs of thosedays, 
for it boasted* the residences of Ad li- 
son, Swift, Delany, Steele, and Par- 

nell. 

To the 1. is the Observatory of 
Dunsink in connection with Trinity 
College, where the Professor of Ast i 
nomy has a residence. The tourist 
should visit it for the sake of the 

trious view obtainable from the ele- 
vated knoll on which the building 
ia placed. 

( In the opposite bank of the Tolka 
is Glasne> in House, the Beat of Hon. 
G. Lindsay. 

The village of Finerlas, where th< 
is an ancient crot . oot only cele- 
brated for its early origin, which is 
believed to date very nearly from 
the time of St. Patrick, hut in lat< r 
times was the scene of May sports, 
which attracted all the world, and 
were probably the relics of the 
Pagan "feriaa." 

8. A mail car goes every morning 
to Swords (lite. 2), passing the vil- 
lage of San try, and San try House, the 

i ( f Sir Charh s Domville, Bart. 

9. To Howth and Malahide by 
rail, Rte. 2. 

in. To Clonfarf and Dollymount 
omnibuses run every half hour from 
skvilie-st. The road firsl cross - 
the LifFey branch of the Royal Canal, 
and then the Tolka by Annesley 
Bridge, Leaving to the LtheConvent, 
with Drumcondra Ch. and Castle 
Lord J. Butler). The <-i:i< f attrac- 
tions of Clontarf anc. < lluain-tarbh) 
are Marino, the Beal of the Marl 
I nh mont, and ( Slontarf t Castle 
J. E. Vernon, Esq. , a beautiful 
ion of " mix* d Elizabethan and 
tellato d m;, l< b." I [ere was 
■■■ atb I otarf i Good 

i oi i, i„ tween the I >an< a d 
d< r 9 and the Ii ish under their 

king 1 1 .. i 1 ; . e, who i 



18 



"Route 1 . — Dublin — History. 



Ireland. 



his death wound on tins occasion, 
together with 11,000 of the flower of 
his army. The Irish, notwithstand- 

ing (heir loss, were triumphant, and 
the decline of the Danish power may 
be dated from this action, although 
it was not immediately extinguished. 
At Dollymount a visit can he paid 
to the Hull wall and pier, which 
protects the harbour of Dublin from 
the sands of the N. Bull (p. 6). 

Conveyances from Dublin: — In 
addition to the local services esta- 
blished for the use of the citv, 
railways radiate to all quarters 
of the compass : 1. To Drogheda, 
Dnndalk, Newry, and Belfast, by the 
Dublin and Drogheda line in Amiens 
St. ; 2. To Mullingar, Cavan, Long- 
ford, Athlone, Roscommon, Castle- 
bar, Sligo, Westport, Ballinasloe, 
and Gal way, by the Midland Great 
Western (Broadstone) ; 3. To Kings- 
town, Bray, and Wicklow, from West- 
land Bow and Harcourt St. ; 4. Kil- 
dare, Tullamore, Maryborough, Kil- 
kenny, Waterford, Mallow, Killar- 
ney, Tralee, Limerick, Cork, by the 
Great Southern and Western ^Kings- 
bridge). Coaches and cars to Ash- 
town, Baltinglass, Blessington, Wex- 
ford, and Enni skerry. By steamers 
to Holyhead daily; to Kingston 5 
times a day ; Belfast weekly ; Fal- 
mouth, Plymouth, Portsmouth, and 
London, bi-weekly ; Belfast and 
Glasgow 3 times a week; Liverpool 
daily; Whitehaven bi-weekly ; Wex- 
ford weekly ; Bristol weekly ; Silloth 

••.-kly. 

A brief notice of the history of 
Dublin may not be uninteresting, 
although to give it in detail would 
be to write the history of Ireland. 
The name of Eblana is occasionally 
given it, because a city of this name 
is mentioned as existing in the 
same latitude by Ptolemy: but with 
more probability it acquired its appel- 
lation from Duibb-linne, the Black- 

ater ; " in fact, so called from a lady 
named Dubh, who had been formerly 
drowned there. The Danish or 



English name Dublin is a mere 
modification of Dubhlinn, but the 
native Irish have always called, and 
still do call the city Ath Cliath, or 
Baile Atha Cliath, the Ford of 
Hurdles, or the Town of the Ford 
of Hurdles." — O'Ciorey. In the time 
of St. Patrick, the Danes, or Ostmen, 
were well established as merchants, 
as we bear of his celebrating mass 
in one of the vaults of the cathedral 
built by them for storehouses. In 
the 9th cent., however, they en- 
tered as conquerors, and from this 
date the annals of Dublin present 
very stormy details of wars and 
tights between the Ostmen and the 
native Irish. But the power of the 
Danes in Ireland received its great 
overthrow at the battle of Clontarf 
(p. 17), although they still kept 
possession of the city and founded 
Christian churches in the reign of 
Sitricus, 1038. 

In the same cent. Godred, King of 
Man, overran Dublin, and for some 
years exercised his sway. But on his 
death we find the city in the hands 
of native Irish rulers until the in- 
vasion of Wexford by the English in 
1169, who under Strongbow occu- 
pied it with the ostensible view of 
assisting MacMurrough, King of 
Leinster, against his enemy Koderic 
O'Connor. 

The principal subsequent events 
were — the arrival of Henry II., who 
granted a charter to the inhabitants ; 
the erection of the castle by King 
John ; the attack and partial de- 
struction of Dublin by Edward 
Bruce in 1315; the rebellion of Lord 
Thomas Fitzgerald, commonly called 
Silken Thomas, during the reign of 
Henry VIII. ; the landing of Crom- 
well in 1649 ; and the insurrection of 
Bobert Emmett in 1803. The in- 
tervals between these dates, especially 
up to the 17th cent., were charac- 
terised by repeated outbreaks and 
attacks made by native Irish, who 
presumed on the weakness of the 
government. 



Ireland. Route 2. — Dull in to Drogheda and Dundolk, 



19 



ROUTE 2. 

DUBLIN TO DROGHEDA AND 
DUNDALK. 

The Dublin and Drogheda Rly. 
opened in 1849 is the first 
link in tlu* great northern chain 
that connects Dublin with Belfa 
and i>. bo l'ar. of importance, although 
the Length of the whole line, includ- 
ing the branches to Howth and OKI- 
- Dot more than 71 m. Starting 
t. in Amiens-street, a very 
nil building with an Italian fe- 
the rly. is carried through the 
N.E. part of the city on a viaduct, 
cr» the Royal Canal by a fine 

d lattice beam bridge of 140 ft 
span, and Boon emerging on ti - aids 
oi' I ri Bay, which arc travers I 

by ai rakment 30 ft. high. On 

1. is a granite bridge of 3 arc] 

as the A . over 

i Tolka river, which here en 

If into the hay. From the em- 
inent a very charming pano- 
nu : - _ ined on every >i le, 

ity with its foi i 
and chimi ind the whi 

as £ s stown, b 
iij) by th< I > I lin and Wicklow 

inland arc nun - 
roue \ Qlas and han .On 

L is 1 te mansion of 

of the Earl 
larlemont ; and rt. is I int 

irf t with Clontarf 
Castle (J. E. Vernon, Esq. , and 
f»idences : hut as thi 

• * 

immunication by omni- 

. this place and I tollymounl 

to the city, it i ■ in the 

I >• blin Rte. l . 

m. the line en the 

•wth turnpike-road, having on 1. 

Mount Temple and Donnycarn 

\\ nl so ti- 



lt ster cutting in the black calp Lime- 
stone, through which it is carried I 
1 1 m. to Raheny. On 1. of the rlv. 
ia Killester ruined ch. and abbey, 
the latter the seat of D. Nugent, 
Esq. Artane T. Alley, Esq. , 
j m. L, was the scene of a ci uel 

murder perpetrated in 1533 on John 
Allen, Archbishop of Dublin, and 
one of Wolsey's prot ges,when flying 
from the resentment of Lord Thomas 
Fitzgerald. " It is universally sup- 
posed that Fitzgerald, moved with 
compassion, and intending only to 
have the prelate imprisoned, cried 
out to the people in [rish, 'Take 
away the clown.' but the attendants, 
wilfully misconstruing his words, b< 
out the bishop's bi s." ( )n rt., 
to the line, is /■'■ rry Park (T. 
Bushe, Esq.), formerly th< >fthe 

Earl of Shannon. 

3f m.liali' ray Stat., or more properly 
Eat hen v, from its situation near an 
ancient rath, still to he traced. 
In the neighbourhood are Raheny 
Park (T. Gn -ham, Esq.), and Sybil 
Hill J. Barlow, Esq. . From hence 
the line passes through an undulafi 
country, occasionally affording pl< 
aant peeps of i aery. 

4| m. Junction Stat. [From this 
point the rly. to Howth turns off to 
rt. On the shore are the n mail 
oi KUbarrock Ch,, once the votive 
all mari] bay of 

Dublin. It contains some round- 

1 and pointe 1 arches. In the 

13th cent, the manor held by the 
tenure of presenting a pair of furred 
j to the kn. . 

m. Baldoyle Stat. Emm the 
bridge, ci the line, there is 

very lovely view of the promontory 
of Howth, with the rock] ad of 
h-elan l's Eye a little to the X. 
( )n rt La Sutton, famous for it- be 1 
rters. I quantities of dolo- 

oi m Limestone have 

ied from th< - in ti. 

m. // wth, Eotd: Royal The 

hill of Howth, so jill the 



20 



Route 2. — Ho will— Harbour— Castle. Ireland. 



inhabitants of .Dublin, is "an ele- 
vated promontory connected with 
the mainland by a sandy isthmus, 
;m<l forming the northern entrance 
of Dublin Bay, over which it is ele- 
vated 560 ft. above low- water mark." 
The town, which is on the N. side, 
consists of one street running along 
the edge of the cliff, and overlooking 
the Harbour, 52 acres in extent, 
and enclosed by 2 fine piers. Owing 
to the difficulties of the under- 
taking, the cost was very great (no 
less than 300,000Z.), a large portion of 
which might have been saved by the 
choice of a more judicious spot. It 
once enjoyed the advantages of being 
the point of arrival and departure 
for the English packets, but -since 
the selection of Kingstown the trade 
of Howth has become very small, 
and chiefly confined to coasters ; 
indeed, vessels of any magnitude 
cannot enter, and even small ones 
find the anchorage too hard for them. 
There is a fixed lighthouse at the 
entrance of the harbour. The ch., or 
abbey, is situated on a precipitous 
bank above the sea, and is surrounded 
by a strong embattled wall. It is of 
the date of the 13th cent., and is a 
single-bodied building, the nave se- 
parated from the aisle by 6 pointed 
arches, the 4 most westerly of which 
spring from rude quadrangular 
piers. The W. front is entered by 
a round-] leaded doorway, and sur- 
mounted by a bell-turret of 2 stages. 
" The porch in connection with the 
northern doorway is a very unusual 
iture in Irish churches, a fact not 
ally to be accounted for, as they 
appear to have been common in 
England during every age of Gothic 
architecture." — Wdkeman. Howth 
Ch. was founded in the 13th cent, by 
a member of the family of St. Law- 
rence, who held the manorial estates 
of Howth, and whose original name 
was Tristram. It is related of Sir 
Armoricus Tristram that, being about 
to encounter the Danes at Clontarf, 
made a vow to St. Lawrence, the 



patron saint of the day, that he would 
take his name as a surname if suc- 
cessful. The tomb of Christopher, 
20th Lord Howth (1580), stands in 
the nave, near the E. gable. It is 
an altar-tomb, containing recum- 
bent figures of a knight and lady, 
the former with his feet resting on 
a dog. On the sides are the armorial 
bearings of the St. Lawrences and 
Plunkets. The Castle (the seat of 
Lord Howth) is on the W. side of 
the town, and is a long and irregu- 
lar battlemented building, flanked 
by square towers. The hall contains 
a collection of weapons, and amongst 
them the 2-handed sword said to 
have been wielded by Sir Armoricus 
on the occasion of the battle of Clon- 
tarf. See ante. There is also a painting 
representing the abduction of young 
Lord Howth by Grace O'Malley, in 
the time of Elizabeth. Having landed 
at Howth, she requested the hospi- 
tality of its lord, which was refused, 
the family being at dinner with the 
doors shut. She therefore seized the 
son and heir and carried him off to 
her castle of Carrigahooly, where she 
detained him until she had ex- 
tracted a promise from Lord Howth 
that the gates of his castle should 
be always thrown open during meals. 
In the upper apartments is the bed 
used by William III. on his visit to 
Ireland. The whole of the peninsula 
of Howth has been in the hands of 
the present family ever since their 
earliest arrival from England in the 
13th cent. The walk through the 
grounds leading up to the hills is 
very charming. 

An excursion of 2 m. across the hills 
will bring the tourist to the Baily 
Lighthouse, one of the most pro- 
minent objects that greet the 
English traveller by night or day as 
he approaches the bay of Dublin. It 
is finely situated on a peninsulated 
perpendicular rock, 1 10 ft. above high- 
water mark, and in form is a frustrated 
cone, exhibiting a fixed white light. 
In an adjoining room a telescope is 



,\p. 



B ' '' -. Howth — Ireland 9 8 Eye, 



21 



k. pi "by moans of which the shoals 
which oDstrud the entrance to the 
y may be observed, viz. the Great 
K '.. the Bennett,and Burford Banks, 
which are links of the chain extend- 
g Long the Wicklow and Wexford 
c - 3, and known as the Irish 
< lr rands." U was erected in 181 1. the 
light that previously existed on the 
tnmit of the hill being uncertain on 
the mists which so often 
shrouded the head. An ancient 
>ne fortress formerly occupied the 
site of the Bail? Lighthouse, from 
whence the name Ballium waspro- 
bly iL rived : and it is believed 
- remains, which arc still 
itly visible, indicated the resi- 
\ Criomthan Nia-nair, who 
n : 'Vi r Ireland about the year 

and whose » pulchral cairn 
the summit of Sliath Mar- 
tin. Th le of the coast scenery 
on the S. of Ilowth Head is very 
film, particularly at the so-called 
"lion's Head," and the Needles 
* mdlesticks, some hold isolated 
. a little to the W. of the Baily. 
Indeed it would be difficult toover- 
intyofthe views from any 
he hill, but more particularly 
B., extending eve]- I 
magi - m ep of Dublin B y 
and the Wicklow Mountains. On 
th Le of ]:■ n Wowth, 

centre of the pro- 
montory to height of 560 ti . 
St. F 9 ( /'., a Vi markably small 

of the 13th cent 

Internally it measures only 16J ft. 

by 7 ft. 8 in., and is Lighted by 5 

windows of various forms, deeply 

splayed in the interior. T a a 

lancet doorway in the W. gable, 

bich is surmounted by a dispro- 

ll-turret A little dis- 

- the well of Bt. Fintan. 

. and Ilowth Castle 

mte 1 ' 

t'»i ; support* re, and covered 

by a . - ft. in depth and 

L8 ft. squj Ti 

H I- !,:: the 



one in Howth, viz. Byron's, n< 

Sutton, and the Baily, near the light- 
house. As regards geological posi- 
tion, the coast of Howth affords clear 
ctions of Cambrian rocks, princi- 
pally quartz, separated from ea< 
other by hands of greenish-gr< y 
slate dipping to the S.W. At a point 
called the Cliffs, on the S. coast, is 
a Large green hornblendic dyke; 
while the formation of the Needles 
of quartz rock resting on porphyritic 
greenstone. At the extreme end of 
the Nose of Ilowth, on the N.E., Dr. 
Kinahan found Oldhamia antiqua. 
The bills in the centre of the district, 
such as l>en Howth, Loughoreen, 
Dang Hill (on which is the old light- 
house ,are also formed of thick beds 
of quartz. "Taking Howth as a 
whole, it presents hardly a feature 
in common with the Cambrian rocks 
of Wicklow or Wexford, with the ex- 
ception of some of the quartz rock 
ma and the occurrence of green 
grits and slates at some points. 
Whether Cambrian or Silurian, it 
seems to occupy a horizon distinct 
from any rocks hitherto examined 
on the eastern coast." — Geolo<ji< ■< i 
Survey. Towards the N. and W., 
from the harbour of Howth to the S. 
part of the southern shore, the car- 
boniferous rocks (lower limestone) 
visible. Erica cin< rea and As- 
plenium maximum have their habitat 
hire] 1 in. to the N. of Howth 

is the small island of Ireland's Eye, 
a w _ -shaped mass of quartz rock 
resting on contorted Cambrian grits, 
forming a g od natural breakwater 
for the harbour. It contains the 
ruins of an ancient chapel founde l 

in the 6th cent, by St. N tan, 
which was famous f r p - ssing a 
copy of the l Gosp Is, calL d th 
•■ ( . irland of Howth, ' and i 
sanctity. No! many yeai I 

island obtained a L< bs eni ' ble noto- 
riety from a terrible murder com- 
mitted there, known as I he K irwan 

je.ly. 

•m t' i Howl Junction t 



22 



Route 2. — St. Doulougli — Malaliide. Ireland. 



line continues northward, having 
on 1. Grange House ; and crosses 
the Mayne river to (JJ m. Port- 
marnock, a small village close to 
the shore, which is of so smooth a 
character as to have obtained the 
name of the Velvet Strand. The 
botanist will find here Ammi ma jus, 
Alyssum minimum, Equisetum varie- 
gatum, Carex extensa, Schaenus ni- 



gricans. 



The singular ch. of St. Dou- 
lough, 1 m. 1., has puzzled anti- 
quaries from the incongruity of its 
style, uniting the high stone roof 
of very early Irish elate, with the 
pointed features of the 13th cent. 
It is an oblong ch., 48 ft. in length, 
from the centre of which rises a low 
square tower with graduated battle- 
ments. " A projection on the S. wall 
of the tower contains a passage lead- 
ing from the upper part of the build- 
ing to an exceedingly small chamber, 
in the eastern wall of which are 2 
windows, one commanding the only 
entrance to the ch., the other an 
altar in an apartment or chapel 
between the tower and the W. 
gable." — Walceman. At the E. is 
a 2-light pointed window, while 
another of the same date, but with 
cinquefoil heads, occupies a singular 
position near the base of the S. side 
of the tower. "The vaults of the 
lower apartments form the floor of a 
croft, occupying uninterruptedly the 
whole length of the building. The 
roof is double, of an extremely high 
pitch, and between the 2 is a small 
dimly-lighted chamber. 1 ' The ch. is 
now undergoing a process of restora- 
Hon, which it sadly needed. The 
Well, outside the cl i yard, is covered 
in by an octagon-shaped, stone-roofed 
building, and has a circular interior, 
formerly decorated with religious 
paintings. Close by are a stone 
cross, and a subterranean bath 
known as St. Catherine's Pond. 
7 J m. 1., in the grounds of Grange, 
are the remains of an ancient fort, 
more on the 1., conspicuous 



Still 



by a windmill on its summit, is the 
h ill of Feltrim, in the mansion-house 
of which James II. passed a night on 
his flight from the Boyne. Passing 
Hazelbrook (A. Norman, Esq ), 
Beechwood House (R. Trumbull, 
Esq.), and Broomfield, beyond which 
on the shore are remains of a castle 
known as Roebuck or Rob's Wall, 
the line arrives at 

9 m. Malaliide {Hotel: Royal, 
good), a somewhat dull bathing- 
place, frequented by the inhabit- 
ants of Dublin, and situated at 
the mouth of a considerable estuary, 
called Meadow Water. The chief 
attraction to visitors is the Castle 
of Malaliide, the ancient baronial 
seat and residence of Lord Talbot of 
Malaliide, whose family has been 
seated here for more than 700 years. 
The visitor is admitted on presenting 
a card, to be obtained at the hotel. 
The castle was founded bv Richard 
Talbot, who received a grant of the 
lordship in the reign of Henry II., 
and is still an interesting building, 
though modern alterations and addi- 
tions have been made, not altogether 
in the best taste. As it at present 
stands, it is an ivy-covered building, 
flanked on each side by a slender 
drum tower, with Irish stepped battle- 
ments. The one at the S.E. angle 
is very modern. The principal fea- 
tures of interest in the interior are, 
an oak panelled room, with an elabo- 
rately carved chimney-piece, repre- 
senting the Conception ; respecting 
which the following legend is told. 
In 1653 the castle was inhabited by 
Miles Corbet the regicide for 7 years, 
during which time the figure of the 
Virgin Mary took miraculous flight, 
never appearing again until the un- 
holy tenant had fled. The dining- 
hall, a fine lofty room, contains the 
original oak roof and gallery, with 
many family portraits, amongst which 
are Charles I. and Henrietta Maria by 
Vandyke, James II. and Ann Hyde 
(Sir P. Lely), Queen Anne (Sir G. 
Kneller}, and one of Lord Tyrconnel, 



Iuki.an: Routt '2. — Swords — Lambay Island, 



23 



I. »rd I ieutenant of Ireland in Jan 
[I/b time. There ia also a painting 
in 3 compartmenta by Albert Durer, 
which belonged to Mary Queen of 

. and was purchased by Charli a 

II. for 2000J., a- well aa others by 
< analetti, Cuyp, Vandyke, &c. The 
library contains the documents of a 

nt made by Edward IV. to the 

A Ij lining the house i> tlic ruined 
a]«' single-aisled building, of 

nave an 1 chancel, divided by a good 

•h. and lighted by trefoil windows 

• 

B., md a perpendicular window 

\V. There i> also a 2rlight 

window under the little belfry, orna- 

ated with crocketed ogee cano- 

I bj le i> tin- altar-tomb of 

Maud Plunkett, the heroine Grrif- 

ballad of the 'Bridal of Mala- 

hide, 1 whose husband IV • 1 1 in a fray 

immediately after the celebration of 

his man' _ . thus making her maid, 

wife, ami wi«l<>w, in one day, though 

afterwards lived to many her 

I husband, sir Richard Talbot : — 

■ Cut oh, for the maiden 

Who mourns for that chief 

a heart overladen 
An«i rending witl 

w 
In one morning tide, 
rife and a widow, 

A a i rid bj '. ie." 

The t surmounted by her re- 

cumbent effigy in tin- c ►stume of tin- 
1 5th •■• it. It is a pity thai the w< i 
I ar«- allowed to gn 
ii pro, . within t\n: precincts 

[:; m. t > 1. of Malahi L - the 
vil ; : Swords, irkable for its 
•und tower. tie. It * 

impbrtan( 
founded here in 
51 . Luinb, which was sub - 

op- 

i The is 7. 

■ 

It 



3 ft. above the level of the ground, 

with a 2nd aperture of marly the 

same shape, '20 ft. above the ground. 

The castle, or the archiepiscopal re- 
sidence, consists of long ranges of 

embattled walls Hanked by square 
towers. It is said to have been 
destroyed, together with the town, 
ii'» less than 4 times by the Danes. 
Adjoining the round tower is a 
eli. of the 14th cent., to which 
is appended a modern excrescence 
forming the body of the building. In 
the neighbourhood of Swords are 
Brackenstown House, the seat of 
B. Manders, Esq., in whose grounds 
i- a large rath ; ami Balneary Hon 
II. Baker, Esq. ]. The line new 
cro the estuary for 1] m. by 
means of a considerable embank- 
in \ii, divided in the centre by a 
timber viaduct set on piles. There 
is a tine view from it over Malahide, 
Lambay Island, and the promontory 
of Portraine. 

11^ m. To the 1. of Donabate 
Stat., are the remains of the square 
cattle of Donabate, "the high fortress 
of the bay," also Newbridge House, 
the scat of the family of Oobbe, in 
whose demesne are the ivy-covered 
ruins of Landestown Castle : also on 1. 
is Turvey House, the estate of Lord 
Trimleston. On rt., overlooking the 
shore, is Portraine, the castellated 
a at of J. Evans, Esq. Close to 
the sea is b modern round tower, 
d to tin; memory of a former 
member of the family by his widow. 

.*; m. off the- coast is Lambay 
Tdand\ the Limnius of Pliny, tlie 
clifls of which, rising to the height 
of 41s ft., form a beautiful feature 
in tin i ry. Geologically sp< ak- 

_•, it coi "i' dark 

porphyry, overlaid Kiln and 

'i Points the S.E and N.E. 

spectively) by grey Silurian lim - 

and gn ] a Kiln 

nt and tfa Portraine 

capita] fields for Silui ian fossils, 

ly in the matt« r of trilo- 

•1'::' re i.- a 



24 



Route 2. — Dublin to Drogheda and Dundalk. Ireland. 



curious old polygon building evi- 
dently constructed for defending 
the place, which its battlements and 
spikeholes command in every direc- 
tion : it has been built entirely on 
arches without timber." — I) Alton. 
The cliffs of Lambay were the scene 
of the- wreck of the iron steam- 
vessel ' Tayleur .' The lands of 
Portraine, in which barony Lambay 
is included, were formerly given by 
Sitric, the Danish King of Dublin, 
for the endowment of a Christian ch. 

14 m. Rush and Lush Stat. Rush 
is a small maritime village on the 
it., possessing no feature of interest; 
but the visitor should by all means 
see the round tower of- Lush 1 m. 1. 
An abbey was founded in the 5th 
cent, by St. Macculind, who is 
supposed to have been buried here. 
The chief peculiarity of the ch. is its 
square embattled steeple, probably of 
the latter time of E. E., supported 
on 3 sides by slender round towers, 
with Irish stepped battlements. The 
further side is flanked bv a round 
tower of undoubted antiquity, mea- 
suring 7J ft. diameter at its base, 
though deprived of its conical apex. 
The body of the ch. consists of 2 
aisles, divided by a range of blocked 
pointed arches, and contains a richly- 
decorated monument to Sir Christo- 
pher Barnewell and wife (16th cent.), 
" by whom he had issue 5 sons and 
15 daithers." Underneath the tower 
is a crypt in which the founder 
was buried, and this crypt, "being 
termed in Irish 'lupca,'is supposed 

I uive given name to the locality." — 
J y Alton. In the black carboniferous 

lies of Lough Shinny, in which 
copper Juts been worked, may be 
found the fossil called " Posidonomya 
Becheri." 

15 m. rt. is Kenure Pa/rk, once the 
residence of the Duke of Ormond, 
and now of Sir Roger Palmer. 

10 m. 1., on an eminence, are the 
ruins of Bcddangan Castle, " the 
town of the fortification." Some 

uare towers and walls are all now 



left of this once fine fortress, which 
formerly belonged to the De Berming- 
hams,from whom it passed to the Lords 
of Howth, and subsequently held out 
in 1G41 for the confederates of the 
Pale, against the Parliamentary army. 
Portions of a ch. are also visible. 
Passing rt. Hacketstown (J. Johnston, 
Esq.), and 1. I m. Milverton House 
(G. Woods, Esq.), the traveller 
arrives at 18 m. Skerries, a thriving 
little fishing harbour anciently called 
Holmpatrick, from a tradition that 
St. Patrick once landed here. The 
islands of the Skerries lie a short 
distance out. They are 3 in number — 
Red Island, Colt, and St. Patrick's ; 
beyond which is the Rock o' Bill. 
Connected at low water with the 
mainland is Sherrick's Island, on 
which there is a martello tower. 
There is a lighthouse on one of the 
Skerries islands showing a red re- 
volving light. 

At Barnageera, 19 m., the antiquary 
may see a couple of sepulchral tu- 
muli, which in 1840 were opened, 
yielding a coffin and bones. On 
1. are Ardgillan, the castellated re- 
sidence of Col. Taylour, M.P., and 
Hampton Hall (G. A. Hamilton, 
Esq.). 

About 1 m. 1. is Balrothery, the 
ch. of which possesses a peculiarity 
similar to Lusk in having a round 
tower flanking one of the angles of 
the steeple. As the line runs close 
along the coast, fine views are obtained 
in a northerly direction of the head 
of Clogher, above which, in clear 
weather, the Mourne Mountains rise 
in noble ranges. 

22 m. Balbriggan {Hotel : Hamilton 
Arms), a town of about 2250 Inhab., 
associated with hosiery and stockings 
in particular, in which it still carries 
on an important trade. It owes its 
prosperity almost entirely to the 
family of Hamilton of Hampton, and 
particularly to Baron Hamilton, who 
in 1780, with the help of the Irish 
Parliament, established cotton-works, 
and built a pier 420 ft. in length ; 



.LAND. 



R mte 2. — Drogheda, 



25 



- quently to which an inner dock 

- constructed almost at the sole 

of another member of the 

g Dae family. The harbour is lighted 

by a fixed Light. 

le rly. is carried aero-- the 

harbour by a viaduct of 11 arches 

ft. span. 

24 in. G On 1. is Gor- 

ra Castle, the finely wooded 

- at of Viscount Gormanstown, in 
whose | 3ion it has been since 
the time of Edward III. It is a 
large rectangular pile of building 
flanked by slender round towers, and 
is not remarkable for much archi- 

otural ta>ir. The wooded glen of 
the D Ivin river, which here 
parates the counties Dublin and 
Meath, i a pretty contrast to the 

- >mewhat bleak coast-lands through 
which the line has hitherto been 

On rt. is the headland of 

Knocknx . " the hill of dead men's 

ids," in which excavations made 

by Mr. Hamilton revealed a chain- 

.raining a vast number of 

Icined bones. Respecting these a 

jted that a large body 

of giants, of Irish and Danish birth, 

overthrew an army of invaders who 

ded at this spot in the 5th cent. 

_ I m. rt. is Morney House (late 

P pper . 

27 m. Layton Stat., from whence 

on 1. a tumulus is visible on the 

bank of the Nanny, a considerable 

naduct 300 ft. 
_. < Mi the 8. bank is BaHygarth, 

the Pepp 

have inhabited it from the time 

1 s II. Further up the river 
village of Julianstown and 

. the residence of 

R ss. 

m. rt. is Betaghetovm, commonly 

called J town, which is rising 

inl a a bathing-place * ith 

inhabit I I li< da, from 

ral tin 
iden Tower is a 
am< -1 
El / . ■ tii. J: 
[Ireldmd.j 



in the district of Mornington, which 
gave a title to the Wellesley family! 
Close by is a solid mass oi masonry, 
known as the Finger. "They \\. re 
evidently landmarks erected ' 
lighthouses were employed in this 
country." 

32 m. Drogheda, pronounced Droy- 
da [Hotel: Simcox's Imperial), an 
ancient city Orbs Pontana of the 
Romans with a strong fish-like smell, 
and altogether so dirty and un- 
comfortable, and with such miser- 
able accommodation, that the tourist 
will not feel inclined to linger in the 
town any more than is necessary for 
him to view the many objects of in- 
terest in the neighbourhood. (Pop. 
14.7 In . It is finely situated on the 
Boyne, the bulk of the town being on 
the X. bank of the river, which rims 
in a deep valley, affording the travel- 
ler fine views from any of the sur- 
rounding high grounds. Indeed, that 
from the station is perhaps as good 
as any other, and presents Drogh< da 
under the most favourable circum- 
stances, viz. those of distance. But 
this favourable impression is soon 
dispelled on entering the narrow and 
crowded str< specially if it happen 

to be market or fair day. Apart 
from antiquities, the rnoM striking 
part of the town is the harbour, 
which at the lower endiscr< »- ■« 1 1 »y an 
extremely graceful railway viaduct, 
which in size and proportions ranks 
2nd to none in the kingdom. ( Mi the 
S. side, and extending over the largest 
half of tin- river, it consists of 12 
arches of <;<• fi. span, between which 
and 3 similar arches on the X. si le, 
the communication is maintained by 
a lattice bridge of :; beams, each 

• ft. in length, and !") ft. above the 
bvol of high water, sufficient to 

allow v< BSClfl Of any size 

underneath. The Harbour, which - 

formed '• by the outfall of the Boyne, 

rated by the ebb from a consider-* 
able tide basin below the town," hi 3 
diffS renl times much im- 
[ r >ved, gn atly to th u tit of ti 



2G 



Route 2. — Drogheda. 



Ireland. 



trade, which has increased so rapidly 
as to place Drogheda high amongst 
Irish ports. "About 80 years since 
the shipping interest from this town 

7e employment to but a solitary 
vessel, the 'Mary Anne/ whose 
ladings, insurances, departures, and 
returns, were at the time a source of 
reiterated excitement to the mer- 
chants." — JX Alton. At the present 
time Drogheda possesses more than 
50 vessels with a tonnage of 4376, 
and employs 9 steam-vessels trading 
to Liverpool and other ports. Great 
numbers of cattle are shipped, besides 
butter, oats, &c., in enormous quan- 
tities ; in addition to which, an exten- 
sive trade is carried on in linen, cot- 
ton, salt, distilling, and tanning, not 
forgetting the Drogheda ale, about 
the pleasantest thing in the town. 
At one time the manufacture of 
table-linen w r as so large, that 10,000Z. 
was the average expenditure on 
market-days. 

The Walls of Drogheda, some 
portions of which still remain, were 
about 1J m. in circumference, and 
were entered by 10 gates, 5 on the N. 
or Meath side of the town, and 5 on 
the S. or Lowth side ; of these the 
only ones remaining are a portion of 
the West or Butter Gate, an octangu- 
lar tower, defended by long narrow 
loopholes, and entered by a circular 
arched passage strengthened by a 
portcullis, and St. Lawrence's Gate, 
one of the most perfect specimens in 
the kingdom. It consists of 2 lofty 
circular towers of 4 stories, between 
which is a retiring wall pierced like 
the towers with loopholes. " It is 

ibable that the latter was anciently, 
upon the town side, divided into 
stages by platforms of timber ex- 
tending from tower to tower, other- 
wise the loopholes could not have 
been used by the defenders of the 
gate." — Wakeman. 

The ruins of the Abbey of St. Mary 
D' Ur80, situated between West Gate 
and the Boyne, are small, and consist 
of a central tower with a fine pointed 



arch, spanning a dirty thoroughfare 
called the Abbey Lane. It was once 
an important and extensive building 
of 150 ft. in length, and is believed to 
have been founded by St. Patrick, 
and to have been the temporary re- 
sidence of St. Columb in the 6th 
cent., subsequently to which it was 
occupied by Augustinian friars. 

The Dominican, or Abbey of 
Preaching Friars, is conspicuous 
in the N. portion of the town 
from its sole remaining feature, the 
Magdalene steeple, a lofty tower 
of 2 stories springing from a noble 
pointed arch. It is lighted by 2 
pointed windows on each side, 
and contains 2 upper apartments. 
In the E. battlement is a breach 
made by Cromwell's cannon. This 
religious house, which was once cru- 
ciform, was founded in 1224 by an 
archbishop of Armagh, and was the 
place where Bichard II. in 1894 
received the submission of O'Neill, 
Prince of Ulster, and his subordinate 
chieftains. Unfortunately for the 
archaeologist, these ruins stand in the 
midst of a most wretched collection 
of hovels. 

On the N. or Meath side, the only 
other building worth notice is the 
Thulsil, an important-looking build- 
ing surmounted by a cupola. Close 
to it the Boyne is spanned by an 
inconvenient Bridge, "on one side, 
of which may be still seen the wicker 
Corragh, with its horse-skin covering, 
the same in design and execution 
perhaps as floated there 1000 years 
ago : and on the other we find the 
latest invented and most improved 
screw steamer." — Wilde. On the S. 
side are the ch. of St. Mary, formerly 
devoted to the use of the Carmelites ; 
the poor-house, a really handsome 
building for the accommodation of 
1000 inmates ; and a martello fort, 
commanding the whole of the town 
from a mount which was formerly 
the grave of the wife of Gobhan the 
smith, and which is recorded to have 
been robbed by the Danes of its 



I 



Route 2.—MettiforU Abbey. 



27 



intents in the Oth cent. Behind 
tin T-house is the mound from 
iwell, in his attack on 
the town, "made the breach assault- 
le, and, by the help of God, 
rmeil it.'" A handsome addition 
d made to Drogheda, in the 
fa fine hall, called the Whit- 
worth Hall, presented to the town 
by Mr. Whitworth, the member for 
the 1 or< ugh. 

Tlu" early name of Drogheda was 
Drochat-Atha — the Bridge of the 
•ril — afterwards Anglicised into 
igh. The principal events in 
y of its annals, which up 
the time of Cromwell are trace- 
!e with remarkable regularity, 
the holding of several parlia- 
>ne of which, known as the 
lynings Parliament, and held in 
1493, provided for the dependence 
i Native assembly upon 

id. li was frequently 
th us of the armies that 

W( re senl inst the rebellious hi- 
nts of Ulster, and in 1041 
ully against Sir 
im o Neill under sir Henry 
ne and Lord Moore; and 
• in 1649 Had, r Sir 
Cromwell, 
wh | . storm, 

by circun of 

• pi Borne 
nit 
odof the town, 
was Idier, or 

i i that 
. ' — i I i ■ 
- [I. rued I previous 

ribed in p. 141. 

rail i" Dublin, 
N in and Oldcast] 
Liverpool ; m ir to 

/' — Dublin, 33 m.; Bel- 

■ Duleek, 
llifont Abl 
' I Oldbridge, 

7 : Hill f Dowth, 5; 
- 



cursions. — ■ 

1. Oldbridge and the Boyne (Rte. 
15). 

2. Mellifont and Monasterboice. 

3. Newgrange and Dowth Lite. 
1 5 . ' 

1. Duleek and Athcarne (Rte. 16). 

[The tourist will of course visil the 
abbey of Mellifont, the firsl Cistercian 
Abbey ever founded in Ireland. i\ 
owes its establishment to Donough 
O'Carroll, Prince of Oirgiallach, in 
1142, who was influenced by the 
request of St. Malachy the Arch- 
bishop of Armagh. At the time of 
its consecration in L157, a very im- 
portant synod was held here, at- 
tended by the primate, 17 bisho] 
and 4 or 5 kings. At the intro- 
duction of the English power into 
the Pale, the abbey 'which was an 
oftshoot of that of Clairvaux in Nor- 
mandy; was taken under the special 
protection of Henry II., who granted 
a charter, afterwards confirmed by 
John. Towards the end of the 16th 
cent, the last abbot retired, and 
Mellifont then became the residence 
of Sir Edward Moore, in whose time 
it underwent a siege during the Re- 
bellion. At the time of the dissolu- 
tion it contained 140 monks, besides 
lay brothers and servitors. Therm 
are pleasantly situated on the >b ep 
banks of the Mattock, which here 
divides the counties of Meath and 
Lowth. On a projection of rock near 
the river is the gateway, a massi 
square tower, carried up on one side 
to a considerable height. Admittance 
was gained by a circular arch, through 
which now runs a mill-stream. The 
baptistery is a singular octagon build- 
ing, of which only 5 sides remain. 
E ch face is entered by a semi- 
circular door with -nod pillars and 
mouldings ; and above the crown of 
the archi bernally runs a string 
course. Although the roof is goi 
irbels in the interior show th 
points from which the arches sprang 

rapport it. "The effecl of the 

colour from the red I introduced 

o 2 



2S 



Route 2. — Monasterboice. 



Ireland. 



into the architraves is very pleasing, 
and they constitute a feature in Irish 
architecture pronounced by Dr.Petrie 
io be almost unique." — D' Alton. On 

the top, according to Archdall, was a 
reservoir for water, which was con- 
veyed by pipes to the different 
cilices. Close by, and apparently of 
later date, is St. Bernard's Chapel, 
consisting of a crypt and an 
upper chamber, the basement floor 
being considerably lower than the 
surface ground outside. The crypt 
has a beautifully groined roof, and 
arches springing from clustered co- 
lumns, having capitals elaborately 
carved in foliage. The centre columns 
are carried down to the ground, but 
the others stop short at a basement 
running round at a little height 
from the floor. It is lighted by 
an eastern and 2 side windows, of 
Decorated style, with good mullions, 
though but little of the tracery, 
which resembles Flamboyant, re- 
mains. This chapel was formerly 
entered by a pointed doorway, 
that, to judge from plates given by 
Wright in ' Louthiana,' and the 
' Irish Penny Journal,' 1832, was 
most elaborate in its ornamentation. 
Near the baptistery are remains 
of dungeons in which Dervorgoil, 
" whose abduction by Dermod Mac 
Morrough, king of Leinster, led to 
the introduction into Ireland of the 
English under Strongbow." is said to 
have closed her career. 

About 2 m. to the N.E. of Melli- 
font, and G from Drogheda, are the 
venerable ruins of Monasterboice, con- 
sisting of 2 churches, a round tower, 
and 3 of the finest crosses in Ireland. 
The churches are of different dates : 
the oldest, which is probably an- 
t- rior to the tower, measures 45 ft. 
in length, and formerly consisted 
of aisle and choir, separated by a 
round arch, which at present termi- 
nates the building, as the choir lias 
disappeared. The doorway is in the 
centre of the vast gable, and has a 
rude horizontal head. The 2nd ch., 



adjoining the tower, is considerably 
smaller, and is of the date of the 
13th cent. 

The Round Tower, the great feature 
of Monasterboice, is considered bv 
Dr. Petrie to be about the date of 
the 9th cent. It is 17 yards in cir- 
cumference at the base, gradually 
diminishing to the summit, which is 
90 ft. in height, and is broken off, 
presenting at a distance somewhat 
of the aspect of a huge steel pen. 
The most noticeable point about it 
is the door, standing 6 ft. from 
the ground, the head formed of 2 
stones laid horizontally one above 
the other. " A band extends round 
the head and down the sides of 
the doorway, but terminates on a 
level with the sill, or rather turns off 
at a right angle, passing horizontally 
for a distance of 8 inches, from which 
point it ascends, and running upwards 
round the doorway head gives the 
appearance of a double band." — 
Waheman. Above the doorway is a 
small pointed window, but all the 
others are square-headed. Of the 3 
Crosses, 2 are considered to be the 
finest specimens of the kind in Ire- 
land. The largest one is 27 ft. high, 
and is composed of 3 stones, viz., the 
shaft, the cross (the arms of which 
are bound together by a ring), and 
the top piece. The shaft is divided 
into 7 compartments, all of which 
were filled with elaborate sculpture, 
more or less weathered and worn. 
In the 2nd from the bottom are 5 
figures, of which one is presenting a 
book, while a bird rests on his head. 
In the 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th are the 
Apostles. The body of the cross is 
filled with a representation of the 
Crucifixion. The circle by which the 
arms of the cross are connected are 
enriched with elaborate ornament, 
conspicuous for its cable moulding. 
The 2nd cross is even more dis- 
tinct, but is not nearly so large, 
being only 15 ft. high. There are 3 
main compartments in the western 
face of the shaft, each of which 






i? 2. — Termonfeciin, 






filled with ') figures habited in 
th slesiastical or military dr< 

iod, viz. the 9th or loth 
"The history which 11.* 
- olptures are intended to com- 
memorate evidently commences in 
si entablature, where an 
a -tic in a long cloak fastened 
with a brooch stands between '2 
either soldiers or robbers, 
armed with long Danish swords. In 
the compartment over this, the same 
arc represented a- stu- 
d< ats, each with a book, bul the 
- have assumed t lie eccle- 
arb, although they retain 
th.- moustache. In tin- top division 
- an- again repeated, all in 
long flowing dresses; the central one 
— then perhaps aged or at the point 
death — is represented giving his 
>ne and his book to the other 
his former assailants." — Catalogue 
I thA id. The centre piece on the 
d face represents our Saviour 
B ting in judgment, while below it 
Adoration of the Wise Men, 
aptation, and Expulsion in 
and lowest division, besides 
1 or •_' compartments that are ob- 
From an inscription on the 
shaft, which v\- 
Muiredach, by whom 
ss," wo learn t 
e builder. From the Irish 

2 ai ui- 

died in 84 I. and the 

:h.- latter of whom 

known 

• Wealth 

re more 
ited such a work 

w. 11 ibed the 

i <•;' breaking th.- 3rd i . 

■ imperf( ct, the 

• only remaining 
d. Besides tl -•• cro 

in- 
. '• A prayer for Ru- 
•I i c 

uded nol only 
piety and muni - 
whom - ce 



and prejudice have too often sia en d 
at as barbarous, hut also ;i> the 
finesl works of sculptured ait <.;' 
their period now existing."- Wake- 
mint. This religious establishment 
was founded about the end of the 
5th cent, by St. Buithe, the Bon of 
Bronnagh, from whom it derived 
its nana'. Buithe, the founder, was 
buried himself here in 521, and sub- 
gently to this period the abbey 
was visited by St. Columb. With 
the exception of the destruction of 
the belfry by fire in L097, the annals 
of this house an- not marked by any 
events of importance.] 

The Dublin and Belfast Junction 
lino now conveys the traveller 
northward. This line, opened in 
1 852, completes the railway chain 
from Duhlin to Belfast, by uniting 
with the Ulster Rly. at Portadown, 
56 m. distant. After crossing 
the Boyne Viaduct, a smaller one 
is entered upon at Xewl'oundwell 
Bridge, built in a style to harmoni 
with the walls of Drogheda. On 
rt. 1J m. is Beaulieu House f R. 
Montgomery, Esq.), pleasantly situ- 
ated just at the mouth of the 
Boyne. The family of Montgomery 
have Inherited this estate from Hi- 
ll' nry Tichbome, Governor of Drog- 
heda in 1641. 

From hence to Dundalk the line 
pass< - through a prettily cultivated 
country, though not so rich in 
archaeological remain- a- the dis- 
trict to the W. of Drogheda. The 
tourisl frequi ntly obtains charming 
views of the Mourne Mountains 
and the hilly country between Dun- 
dalk and Xcwiy. 

:;.">! m. rt. 2 m. is the village of 

ckin, in former times the 

residence of the Abps. <>t* Armagh, 

the last of whom was Abp. Ussher, 

who di< d in 1612. it was also t! 

)< sidence of B. 0. Arbp. Plunket, 

who was executed for treason. 

There are rei it 

• le. 1 •• aan Termon m< ans 

tuary," -the sanctuary of B . 



30 



Route 3. — Dundalk to Belfast. 



Ireland, 



Fechan — it being the habit for a 
certain- portion of land, answering to 

our globe, and called " Termon land," 
to t apart for the use of the 

Clergy attached to the foundation. 

;;: I m. rt, is Black Hall (G. Pent- 
land, Esq.), and some 2 m. to the E. 
the village and headland of Ologher, 
a very prominent object iu all the 
coast views. 

4<U m. rt. is Barmeath, the seat 
of Lord Bollew ; soon after which 
the traveller arrives at 42 m. 
rt. Bunleer, a small town situ- 
ated in the valley of the White 
River. By a singular charter given 
by Charles II., the inhabitants had 
the privilege of electing a sove- 
reign of their own, which however 
lias not been exercised since 1811. 
Athclare Castle, a little to the S. is 
a good specimen of the fortified 
manor-house, one end being de- 
fended by a massive battlemented 
tower. 

[From Bunleer it is 5 m. S.W. to 
the hiil of Collon, 744 ft., on the 
slope of which is Temple, the beau- 
tifully wooded demesne of Viscount 
Massareene and Ferrard.] 

[About midway between Dunleer 
and Castle Bellingham, 6 m. L, is 
Ardee, a town of about 2700 Inhab., 
situated, as its name implies, on the 
river Dee. It was of great importance 
in ancient times, chiefly through the 
exertions of Roger de Pippart, an 
English settler, who built a strong 
castle, now used as a gaol. It is a 
quadrangular building with a high 
roof; the E. and W. fronts are de- 
fended by projecting towers rising 
above the rest of the building. There 
is also another castellated building in 
the town, which is inhabited, and 
the residence of W. Hatch, Esq., to 
whose family it was granted by 
Cromwell. Scarce any traces are 
left of the Angustinian Friary and 
of the Carmelite Friary, which was 
burnt by Edward Bruce, as was in- 
deed the whole of Ardee by O'Neill 
in 1538. 



In later times it was occupied 
by James II. "s troops after leaving 
Dundalk, and also bv William's 
army, who advanced direct from 
hence to the Boyne.] 

44 m. rt. Charleville ( — Dease, 
Esq.), and a little beyond Drumcar 
(J. M'Clintock, Esq.) and Green- 
mount. At 47 m. the line crosses 
the river Glyde, a stream rising in 3 
waterheads, under the name of the 
Lagan, in the counties Monaghan, 
Meath, and Louth, and arrives at 
Castlebellingham, a neat little town, 
famous for its ale, on the rt. of 
the line, flourishing under the pro- 
prietorship of Sir Arthur Belling- 
ham, wnose residence is adjoining. 

49 m. rt. Dromishin, in addi- 
tion to a pretty ch., contains the 
lower prtion of a round tower, 
which has been recapped and now 
serves as a belfry. On i. 2 m. are 
Branganstown House (Rev. A. Gar- 
ston) and Darver Castle (Mrs. Booth); 
not far from which is Milt&um Cas- 
tle, a square fortress "defended by 
round towers 45 ft. high, surmounted 
by tall graduated battlements. Near 
the summit of a rising ground \ m. 
distant is an arched subterraneous 
vault, supposed to have communi- 
cated with the castle." 

50 m. The line now crosses an- 
other river, the Fane, which, rising 
in Monaghan, skirts the county of 
Louth, and, passing through a pretty 
valley, falls into the sea at Dundalk 
Bay, close to the village of Lurgan 
Green, and near the grounds of 
Clermont Park (Lord Clermont). 
54 m. Dundalk. Rte. 3. 



ROUTE 3. 

FROM DUNDALK TO BELFAST. 

Dundalk ^anc. Dun-dealgan) {Ho- 
tel : Arthur's) is a large, prosperous 
town (Pop. 10,428), interesting more 



I 



Route 3. — Dundalk — Louth. 



31 



in ltd c< t ions than in 

ttuiuarian features, though it 
do unimportant pari in the 
lv history of tin- country, having 
1«. en the head-quarters of Bruce in 
who here proclaimed himself 
. keeping his position for a whole 
Ii nx.:- afterwards granted to 
powerful family of the IV Ver- 
who founded a Franciscan 
ry in the reign of Henry 1 1 [. 
I a granted by thai king, 

by Richard II. and Henry IV., 
►wed the inhabitants to sur- 
i'l their town by walls. 
Dund built on marshy ground 

S. bank of the estuary of 
tleton river. 9 it alls into 
of Dundalk, winch extends 
7 - from the Moat 

to Dunany Point. The 
to the harbour was ob- 
by a verydang( rous Bhoal of 
until Sir John M*Neill, 
ius of the neighbour- 
red them, and by so doing 
immense impetus to the trade 
rt. An - ive business is 

her. and corn, 
- which there are dis- 

; ies, the amount 
duties for 1859 bei 

.'HIM/. 

■ n it- If will not detain 

: I should Bee the 

., whi< C flnlii 

singular 
: with oop- 
Et. C. ' pel, 1 
* in Ireland, * 

1 T re al 1 1 rt - 

Luldhall, ami the usi 

municipal buildin 

of a fine 
as well ;i- th( irhood 

1. »rd Boden 

i«> 
ruins 
r 

This 

V> have been \ 



1 by Mr. 1 de- 

chapel, 



large and beautiful, and the 
window, according to Ware, v 
particularly admired." Alter the dis- 
solution it was granted by Henry 
YIU. to James Brandon at a rent 
6d. per annum. 

"On the plains of Ballynahatna 
are the remains of a Uruidical tem- 
ple, partly enclosed by a curious 
rampart, <>n the outside of which 
a circle of upright stones." — L< in'.<. 

( "i<rt ya By rail to Dublin, 

Belfast, and Enniskillen. Steamer 
to Liverpool. 

Distances, — Drogheda, 22} m. ; 
Portadown, 33j ; Newry, L5 ; Ennis- 
killen, 62; Castle Blayney, 18; 
Louth, .VI-; Castle Bellingham, 7. 

[Louth (anc. Baile-Lughmhaigh) 
wa ! formerly the >< at of a cele- 
brated ecclesiastica] establishment 
founded by St. Patrick, where 100 
bishops and 300 presbyters re- 
ceived their education. The ruins 
of the abbey, which occupy the site 
of tin 4 original monastery, are rather 
extensive, and contain some good 
traceried windows. In the modern 
eh. on the hill above is a monument 
to the late rector. Dr. Little, with 1 
punning epitaph "Multumin parvo." 
There are several interesting traces of 

ancienl earthworks in this parish, 
particularly in the glebe-land at 

stlering near the villag ■. wh< 
the foundations of an h< lal mural 

may he examined.] 

Ln Dundalk Stat., i\n' 

line 1 on 1. Lisnawully House 

P. I'.\ rae, Esq. . and further on 2 m. 
tUetown House, tin; seal of .1. 
I rood, Esq. Adjoining the man- 
sion is the "id quadrangular castle, 
with Blender Bquare tow* ra at the 
angles. 

• . i- the hill of Faughart, u 
ancienl fort, consisting of an artificial 
mound, 60 ft. in height, surrounded 
encb with ;i count rp. 
The whole area of the summit is cir- 
cumscribed by the foundations of • 
<>(•; 1 building, but whether it 

wa or aot i.^ diilicult 






Boute 3. — Dundalk to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



determine. Mr. Wrighl conjectures 
that it may have been a funeral monu- 
ment, and in later times a beacon or 

fort to defend the frontier of the 
Pale." — Waheman, Here it was that 
Edward Bruce lost his crown and 
his life in an encounter with a picked 
body of troops under De Bermirig- 
ham and Verdon.in 1316. 2 m. to 
the E. of Faughart is a cromlech 
remarkable for the size of the rock 
supported, and the smallness of the 
points of support of the 3 stones 
on which it rests. Close to it 
is the giant's grave, an arrange- 
ment of stones, with a large one over- 
lapping them at one end. On the 
rt. of the rly. are several seats — 
Bellurgan (Capt. Tipping), on the 
southern face of Trumpet Hill, 
Ballymascanlon House (F.J. Foster, 
Esq.), Mount Pleasant (Sir John 
M'Xeill), Carrick Bridge House, 
and Claret Rock. 

4 m. To rt. of Mount Pleasant 
Stat, the beautiful Bavensdale opens 
out, emerging from the southern 
slopes of the Mourne mountains. The 
river Flurry runs through it to Ravens- 
dale Park, the residence of Lord Cler- 
mont. It is magnificently situated at 
the foot of Clermont Cairn, which 
rises bluffly to the height of 1674 
ft. In the lower portion of the glen 
is Annaverna (late Mrs. M'Clelland). 
The scenery has been gradually 
changing, from the undulating and 
pastoral country near Dundalk and 
Castle Bellingham, to higher and less 
cultivated grounds. We are now at 
the southern base of a very remark- 
able group of mountains which shut 
off Ulster from the county of Louth, 
and which contain in their ranges 
scenery of a very high order. The 
Mourne mountains extend from 
Blieve Gullion, the highest westerly 
point, to Blieve Donard overlooking 
Dundrum bay, near Downpatriek, 
and occupy northwards a very con- 
siderable portion of Co. Dow r n, the 
outlying groups indeed reaching to 
within sight of Belfast. 



The tourist who can afford the 
time to explore these hills at length, 
making his head -quarters at Newry 
or Rostrevor, will not regret his 
stay. 

0* m. 1. at Moyry Castle, a single 
quadrangular tower, the line crosses 
the Carrickbroad river, and enters 
the co. of Armagh. This is the 
locale of the famous Moyry Pass, 
where in 1595 a severe action took 
place between the Elizabethan troops 
under Sir Wm. Russell and those 
of O'Neill, who for 5 or 6 years 
subsequently held this defile against 
every attempt on the part of the 
English to dislodge him. He w 7 as, 
however, compelled to retire in 1600 
before Lord Mountjoy, who in his 
turn was a few days afterwards inter- 
cepted by O'Neill in Ravensdale, 
when the Lord Deputy was severely 
wounded, and the English compelled 
to retreat to Dundalk, leaving the 
northern districts in the hands of the 
Irish. Passing 1. under the base of the 
Forkhill mountains, the line leaves 
on rt. 7 m. the village of Jones- 
borough, burnt by the rebels in 1798 : 
near it is the singular pillar stone of 
Kilnasaggart, on the face of which 
is an inscription and a wheel-cross 
below it. We now enter a wild hilly 7 ' 
region, little inhabited, and still less 
cultivated. 

On 1. the granitic head of Slieve 
Gullion rises abruptly to the height 
of 1893 ft., being the most westerly 
point of the Mourne range. At 
the summit is a cairn, contain- 
ing a chamber underneath, supposed 
to have been the burial-place of 
Cualgne, son of Breogan, an early 
chieftain, who fell in battle on the 
plain beneath. * The locale of this 
mountain has been the subject of a 
poem, believed to have been written 
by Ossian, in which he makes Fingal 
his principal hero. The mountains 
in this parish (Killeary) were for- 
merly infested by bands of robbers, 
of whom the famous Redmond 
O'Hanlon was the chief, At the base 



LND. 



Boute 3. — Newry t 



33 



I rullioo ia Killeary Cast] 
the Elizabethan residence of J. 
.:. Esq. 

i. rt near the village of Mi igh 

the line has reached its highest ele- 

i. and enters a deep cutting 

ough the Wellington Hill, emerg- 

at the base of the Newry moun- 

A m gnificent view now 

s out to the traveller, who would 

willingly delay his rapid progress 

a few minutes to feast upon it. 

i I his rt. the whole of the vale and 

town of Newry lie at his feet, t->_ 

with Carlingford Bay and the 
viT - of Warrenpoint and Ros- 
. the whole backed up by the 
a of Mourne, and forming 
i panorama not to be sur- 
l. 
15 in. Newry Stat A- the town is 
little distance off, it will be 
oient to the traveller to 
- tar as 18 in. Goragh 
from whence a short 
lb - tiic Newry and 

Rly. . runs directly into the 
• wii. In its passage be- 
tween th< 2 81 >na the main line 
i- the ravine of Craig- 
•My line viaduct 
. in length and 11<» high, 
5 

_h Wood it is 

lient tn.V' wry 

II Victori : \> wry 

ily 

vn, mi 

5 I i ft 
WT — 

■irrli 1' 

Lriilarly beautiful posi- 
oximityt [ue 

\ i acted both 

the 1 
imunil dvan- 
inhabitants have 
i * « • t to abut 
l the 

the 
d «•;' Oarlingford i 



places in tlio kingdom where the 
lover of scenery can spend his time 

with such economy. II is situated 

iii a broad vale, expanding towards 
the X.W.. contracting on the B.E., 
and bounded by high hills on each 
side — on the W. by theNewrymoun- 
tains (1385 ft.), and Slicve Gullion, 
and on the E. by the wooded 

shoulders of the more lofty Moume 

range, which arc seen overtopping 
them. Through the centre of the 
vale runs the river < Slanrye, eclipsed 
to a considerable extent by the more 
important Newry Canal, which here 
empties itself into the sea, though 

the port of Newry may be pro- 
perly said to be at Warrenpoint, 
o' m. distant, and connected by a 
rly. (Etc. 4). The place itself 
is clean and well laid out, is re- 
markably free from the disagreeable 
suburbs of Irish towns, and has a 
pleasant air of bustle and business 
about it. Four stone bridges cross 
the tidal river which separates the 
Cos. Down and Armagh, and 4 others 
span the canal ; of these the Ballybot 
Bridge is a handsome granite arch of 
90 ft. span. The churches are all 
modern or modernized buildings, 
although St. Patrick's i> said t«» have 
been the first professedly Protestant 
eh. ever er< end in Ireland, and still 
DOS - :i part of the tower, with 

the arms of the founder, sir Nicholas 
li. 1578. Tic i:. C. cathedral 
in Hill-Mo et has a good Perp. ex- 
terior. There are BCarce any trar- 9 
whatever of the abbey of Newry, 
founded in 1157 for Cistercian monks 
by Maurice Bi'Loughlin, king of Ire- 
land. The charter of this founda- 
tion i> -till in existence, and was 
enlarged by Eugh De Lacy in J li : ; 7 . 
Within it.- precincts 2 yew-treea were 
planted by St. Patrick, \'r<^<\ whence 
the town derived the name of Na yur 
or tl.e yrw-tn 1 s, afterwards corrupt d 
into Newri 9. R< 8] 1 ct img this He 
we find tin- f"ll<>\\ ing extract from the 
Innalsofthe Four M M 1262. 

The monastery of the monks of 

1 :; 



34 



Route 3. — Dundallc to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



Newry was burnt, and also the yew- 
tive which St. Patrick himself had 
planted." The Bagnalls (the same 
who built St. Patrick's eh.) possessed 
a castle formed out of a portion of 
the buildings of this abbey and built 
on its site, which was granted them 
by a patent of James I. This family 
long possessed the surrounding ma- 
nors of Newry, Mourne, and Carling- 
ford, which afterwards descended to 
the Anglesea and Kilmorey titles. 
At the northern entrance is a granite 
obelisk erected in memory of a Mr. 
Trevor Corry. The town carries on a 
busy export and import trade, pos- 
sessing good quays and warehouses. 
The port might be made the safest in 
Ireland at a very moderate cost. " The 
lough is navigable for 6 m. by vessels 
of the greatest burden at all times, 
and the port admits vessels of 1000 
tons to Warrenpoint, where the larger 
vessels remain, but those drawing 
15 ft. water can go up by the Ship 
Canal to the Albert Basin, a distance 
of 5 m. from the sea. Barges ply by 
the Newry Canal Navigation to 
Lough Neagh 32 m. inland. The 
income of the port amounts to 6000Z. 
per annum, arising from canal dues 
on tonnage, Is. per ton inwards, and 
Id. outwards." — Thorn's Directory. 
The port contained in 1859 110 
vessels of G?>00 tonnage. (Pop. 12,188.) 

The antiquary should visit the 
rath at Crown Bridge. It is sur- 
rounded by a ditch GOO ft. in cir- 
cumference, and has on the W. side 
a singular platform also surrounded 
by a fosse, the use of which is not 
very apparent. 

Conveyances. — Steamer to Liver- 
pool and Glasgow. Rail to Dundalk, 
Belfast, Armagh, and Warrenpoint. 
Car to Downpatrick, to which a rlwy. 
is in progress; car to Kilkeel. 

Distances. — Dundalk, 15 m. ; Porta- 
down, 18J ; Banbridge, 17 ; Hilltown, 
9 ; Warrenpoint, ; Bostrevor, 8J ; 
Carlingford, 12 ; Omeath, 7 J ; Green- 
ore, 15J ; Kilkeel, 18 ; Newcastle, 30 ; 
Narrow water, 4 ; Dmidrum, 29 ; 



Downpatrick, by coast road, 61 ; Cas- 
tlewellan, 18. 
Excursions. — 

1. Warrenpoint and Eostrevor 
(Rte. 4). 

2. Hilltown. 

[FromNewry the pedestrian should 
w T alk to Warrenpoint, and thence 
make his way round the coast to 
Downpatrick and even to Donagha- 
clee, by which route he will con- 
stantly have opportunities of explor- 
ing the magnificent mountain scenery 
of the Mourne Mts. (Rte. 4).] 

Proceeding from Goragh Wood is 
19 m. 1. Mount Norris,db small village 
marking the position of a fort built 
in the reign of Elizabeth to guard 
one of the many passes near Newry. 
It gives the title of baron to the 
Annesley family. 

20 m. on rt., near the canal, is . 
the tumulus of Cairn Bane, " which 
has a deep sloping bank outside 
the central mound, enclosed with 
upright stones, and which is about 
200 yards in circumference, cover- 
ing above a rood of ground. Within 
the glacis or slope, the base of 
the Temple gradually rises towards 
the mound, which is 160 yards in 
circumference, and is completely 
girt with long and ponderous stones 
set upon it and joined together. On 
the N.W. is the entrance, and on 
the opposite side is the altar, the 
slab of which is very ponderous, 
resting upon 3 upright stones, each. 
10 ft. long." — Coote's Armagh. 

A little further N. is Drumba- 
nagher, the residence of Col. Maxwell 
Close, built in Italian style, and situ- 
ated in beautiful grounds. 

On rt. of the line is Drumantine 
House (A. C. Innes, Esq.). 

The Newry Canal keeps close 
fellowship with the rly. all the way 
from Newry to Portadown, near which 
place it enters the bed of the Bann, 
and thus flows into Lough Neagh. 
It was originally made with the in- 
tention of exporting large quantities 
of coal from the Dungannon district, 



Irk la 



Route 3. — Scarvd — Baribridqe. 






1 rapplying Dublin, but unfor- 
tunately, the quality of the article 
nol being sufficiently Liked, the canal 
for importing coals to the 
districts which should have 
furnished them. It was commenced 
in 1 730, and opened in 1711. a1 a c» »>t 
!,000Z., thf average of the annual 
tolls being between 40007.and 5000& 
• in. Poyntz I 30 called from 

Si Toby Povntz, who defended the 
Hugh O'Neill's Irish 
s. There i> a neal little town 
here, with an hotel. The antiquary 
old stop for the purpose of ex- 
amining the ])<ni>'.< vast, a sort of 
dyke, similar to that of ( )ffa in Wah s. 
ill.'d by the natives Glean-na- 
muck-ddu, " the glen of the black 
and 'ribed by them 

shantment. From Lisnagade 
•j»t. Trevor . near Scarva, it ex- 
ded to the bay of Dundalk, 
ha h of i-2 to -m ft., but, 

these early earthworks, 
[culture and hu- 
nts have obliterated it in 
v many places. P 3sing Acton 
II .J. A ider, Es \. and 

1 ' ill >n>e, the tourist ar- 

rives at 

William HL's 

rendezvous on arrivu 

L 1 1' re are j - 

f int. viz. the 

1 desk < lastle, built by 

M k in the lie I aw. II : and 

i ira 
. a inn h< ap of 

. high, which marks I 
toric I • . a.d. : 
i :. I 3, prim 

ITogha, 
I battle, 

■h the latter was kill d, lac 

The parish 
battle of 

hlon.lv f. .I'. 1 . - its 

l this . In the 

I Souse is the 

t he I >an< '- ( last is 

sup] iommi It is circular, 

i tripL 






intrenchments being about 70 ft. in 
breadth. 

[2J in. rt. is the small town 
of Loughbrtckland, in the street of 
which William 1 1 1, is said to have 
sat on horseback for many hours, 
while his army passed before him in 
single file.] 

Prom Scarva there is a junction line 
ol'Tm. through the village of Laurenc 
town to Banbridge Hold : Downshire 
Arms) (Pop.3800), a pleasant busy 
little place on the Bann, although of 
an entirely modern date. It is pe- 
culiar from the fact of the main 
street having been excavated in the 
centre, leaving a broad passage on 
each Bide for the purposes of 1 rathe. 
Linen is the staple trade of Ban- 
bridge, as it is of every northern town 
which the tourist will visit in this 
route. 

Distances. — Loughbrickland, ?, m. ; 
Dromore, 7 ; Lurgs m, 9 J. A new line 
has been recently opened between 
Banbridge, Dromore, and Lisburn. 

m. Tanderagee Stat., to the rt. 
of which is Gilford, another little 
linen town on the Bann, containii 
the extensive factory of Messrs. Dun- 
bar, Dickson, and Co. Gilford Castle, 
close to the town, was formerly a scat 
of Sir W. Johnston, but is now used 
n hospital. 

About the same distance on the 1. 
of the stat. is the well-to-do town 
of Tandi rag< e, to which very lar. 
quantities of flax arc weekly brought 
to market. The summil 01 the Itill 

crowned by the Castle, a pretty 

Elizabethan mansion of the Duke of 

heater, originally built by the 

ant de Balis on the site of the 
fortress of Redmond < ►'Hanlon, tl i 
most renowned outlaw of Irish history, 

• 

wh< were confiscated in 1 

reign of James I. Prom hence the 
e, crossing the Cusher riv< , 
follows the valley of the Bann, 
passing on L Mullavilly Hon 
rt. Moyallen th idence of the 

Quaki nily of Wak< field | and 

Carriok li ( k>l. Blacker) to 



3G 



Boute 8. — Dundallc to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



:;i m. Portadwm Stat:(Rte.l7),an 
important rly. centre, from whence 
radiate the Dublin and Belfast junc- 
tion, the Ulster, the Clones, and 
the Dungannon lines. Portadown, 
from its position on the Bann, and 
its contiguity to Lough Neagh, has 
a large trade in linen and agri- 
cultural products. For the next 
25 m. the traveller will pursue his 
journey on the Ulster Rly., which 
was opened to Belfast in 1848. The 
same Company, however, own the 
line to Monaghan and Clones (Rte. 
17), as well as that to Dungannon 
and Omagh (Rte. 7). The features 
of the country from Portadown to 
Belfast are not marked by any ro- 
mantic scenery, nor by objects of 
archaeological interest, but are rather 
characterized by richly cultivated 
fields, prosperous linen towns and 
villages, and a general air of well- 
being which, supposing it was uni- 
versal over the kingdom, would place 
Ireland in a very different position 
from that which she has hitherto 
borne. Crossing the Bann by a 
wooden viaduct of 5 arches, and 
leaving on 1. the ch. of Drumcree, the 
line traverses a rather flat low district 
lying between the hills and the 
shores of Lough Neagh, which is 
only a couple of miles distant. Oc- 
casional glimpses of the lough are 
obtained near Lurgan ; but as the 
visitor to Antrim will see it to 
much greater advantage, it will be 
described in Rte. 12. As this district 
i- watered wholly by the Upper 
Bann, the tourist should *be ac- 
quainted with the improvements 
mad*.- by the manufacturers to ensure 
themselves a constant and equable 
water-power, by constructing a 
reservoir at Lough Island Reavy, 
which embraces an area of 100 acres. 
The river rises in the northern face 
of Slieve Muck, in the Mourne range, 
and flows N.W. with a considerable 
fall past Hilltown to Banbridge and 
Gilford. Apart from its commercial 
value, it was long famous for its 



pearls, which, like those in the 
Conway river in N. Wales, are found 
in the shell of the muscle {Unto 
(ilratus), and which in the last 
century were so highly esteemed, 
especially those of rose colour, that 
they were sold for 20l. or 30?. 

39 m. Lurgan, a populous flax town 
(7772), celebrated for its diapers, the 
numerous bleaching-greens in the 
vicinity betokening the prevailing 
occupation. There is little to see 
in it except the demesne of Lur- 
gan Castle, the modern residence of 
Lord Lurgan, a handsome Elizabethan 
house, built of Scotch sandstone, and 
placed in a finely-wooded park. 

[3 m. S.E. is Waringstown, a 
manufacturing village established by 
a merchant of the name of Waring 
in the time of Queen Anne. Hard 
by is an old manor-house, in which 
is preserved a tapestried chamber 
occupied by Duke Schomberg in his 
passage through the country.] 

Passing rt. Grace Hall (C. Douglas, 
Esq.), is 44J m. Moira, a prettily- 
placed town about 1 m. to the rt. of 
the stat. At tins point we cross the 
Lagan Navigation or Ulster Canal, 
running from Lough Neagh by Moira 
and Lisburn to Belfast, a distance of 
28 m., with a summit level of 120 ft., 
and affording a cheap and convenient 
water carriage to the busy manu- 
facturing villages on its course. Seve- 
ral pleasant seats are congregated 
near Moira, viz., Moira Wood, belong- 
ing to the Earls of Moira, Broom- 
mount ( — Gordon, Esq.), Friar's Hill, 
Drumbane House, and Trumery 
House ; where once stood a very 
beautiful round tower 60 ft. in 
height, which, however, has unfor- 
tunately fallen. Adjoining it is the 
gable of the old ch., containing a 
high pointed arched window. Be- 
1\veen Moira and Lisburn the line 
passes 1. the ch. of Magheragall, 
and rt. the Maze, a common on 
which the Hillsborough races are 
held. 

52 m. Lisburn {Hotel: Hertford 



Ireland. 



Route 3. — IAsburn — Dromore. 



37 



\:m-\ a populous (own of between 
and 8000 rnhab., all engaged 
in the staple trade, particularly in 
the manufacture o\ damasks. The 
tourist who is interested in H 
should visit the factory o( the Ooul- 
s, one of the Largest damask 
makers in Ireland. The creation 
of the place may be ascribed to the 
< uway family, to whom Charles I. 
granted a patent, and who erected va- 
le here. The ch., which is 
conspicuous from its handsome oc- 
tagonal spire, is the cathedral ch. 
of the diocese o( Dromore, ami 
contains a monument to the pious 
•1' remy Taylor, Bishop o\' Down and 
I >nnor in 1667 ; also to Lieut. Dobbs, 
who fell in an action againsl Paul 
.1 lies, the private or, as he v 
returning from a raid on the Scotch 
<•<>; In the ch.-yard are the 

es of several Huguenots 
wi. - tied lure and introduced the 
liner branches of the linen manufac- 
ture. Ldsburn and Lurgan suffered 
verely in the war of 1641, having 
both burnt to the ground. Ad- 
joining the town are the castle 
-. which are at all tiim s open 
eople by the liberality 
of the hit- Marquis of Hertford. In 
the centre of a triangular area i- 
ndsome market-place, surmounted 

apola. 

/• ^. — Hillsborough, 4 m. ; 

. [ h places m:»y !><• 

d by rail. The former is an 

1 '. lish-looking little town on the 

side of .i hill. ining a well- 

. built by Sir Arthur 

1 [ill in the n ign of ( Sharles L, and 

ill kepi ui> as a hereditary garrison 

lownshire, who 

enj Marshal of I" U t . r 

I lorof 1 1 • Royal Fortress of 

Usborough. William N [.tenanted it 

for a Qight during his march through 

this pari land, " while his army 

camped on the Moor of Blaria 2 

. on the 1. of th I dsbum road, 

which tz ici bae r since fo en 

mpt from p tithe." it is a 



massive building defended by 4 
quadrangular bastions, and enter* 
6y a good pointed arched gateway, 
above which are 3 pointed windows. 

This fort now usv^ as an armoury for 
the yeomanry) is placed in the centre 
of a fine park, the modern 'demesne 
of the Marquis of Downshire, who 

owns Hillsborough as well as seve- 
ral other towns, all of which are 
characterised by an unusual as- 
pect of neatness and care. There 
is here a pretty Gothic ch. with 
spire '2oo fret in height. It con- 
tains Some Stained v;lass. a sweet- 
toned organ, and a monument by 

Nollekens to Archdeacon Leslie. 

Grossing a somewhat hilly district 
we arrive at Dromore, from very 

early ages the seat of an abbey for 

Canons Regular, which afterwards 
became the cathedral for the Pro- 
testant diocese of Down, Connor, 
and Dromore. It fell into ruins, 
however, and the present ch. was 
built on its site by Bishop Jeremy 
Taylor, who, together with Dr. Percy, 
author of * Reliques of Ancient Eng- 
lish Poetry," were the 2 most note- 
worthy prelates. Adjoining the town 
is the Palace, the grounds designed 
and planted by the Latter bishop after 
the model of Shenstone's Leasow< 
The scanty ruins of a castle and 
some earthworks are to be seen 
near the town, and in the grounds 
of Gill Hall, the residence of R, 0, 
Brush, Esq. To the N.K. is the 
rath of Druib Mm-. 200 f- et in 
diameter at the base, and surrounded 
by ;r rampart and parapet. li 

said that there was a covered way 
between it and the Lagan.] 

From Lisbura the rly. is accom- 
panied on 1. by a chain of hills 
extending to Belfast, where they 
assume a considerable height, and 
add \ i ry much to the beauty of 
that city. They are in fact a ran 
of chalk rocks capped by basaltic 
strata, which run southward 
Ear as Lurgan, being the most 

itherly poinl in which chalk stri 



3S 



Route 4. — Newry to Belfast. 



Ireland, 



are observed in Ireland. In the neigh- 
bourhood of Lisburn thefheight is 

only 820 ft., but it soon increases 1o 
1567 at Divis, and 1142 at Cave Hill 
overlooking Belfast. 

54 m. 1. the village of Lambey, and 
Glenmore, the seat of J. Richard- 
son. Esq. Grossing the river Der- 
raghy, and passing the pretty 
factory village of Dunmurry, the 
tourist arrives at 00 m. the northern 
metropolis of 

B( Ifast (Hotels : Donegal Arms ; 
Imperial). (Rte. 5.) 



ROUTE 4. 

FROM NEWRY TO BELFAST, THROUGH 
ROSTREVOR AXD DOWNPATRICK. 

Newry 'Rte. 3 ) is connected with 
Warrenpoint by a short rly., which 
leaves the town from stats, at Dublin 
Bridge and Edward St., and runs 
parallel with the Newry river, hav- 
ing on 1. a pretty road garnished 
with woods. 

At 4tj m. Narrow Water the estuary 
is suddenly contracted by the projec- 
tion of a tongue of rock, occupied by 
the ruins of Narrow Water Castle 
(anc. Caisl-uisce), a singular square 
battlemented tower, which before 
the days of artillery was well situ- 
ated for defensive purposes. The 
present fortress was built by the 
Duke* of Ormonde in 1GG3 to re- 
place an older one that had been 
destroyed in the previous wars. It 
has seen many vicissitudes ; amongst 
others, serving as a kennel for 
hounds, and a salt-work. The 
botanist will find Sagina maritima 
near the ruins. 

The woods overhanging the road 
on the 1. are those of Narrow 
Water House (Roger Hall, Esq.), 
a charmingly situated residence, 



commanding grand views of the 
opposite mountains of Carling- 
ford. The house is a mixture of 
styles, but the grounds are well 
worth a visit. At the entrance 
of the Clanrye, or Newry River, 
into Carlingford Bay, is 

[G m. Warrenpoint, the terminus 
of the rly., and the port of Newry 
(Hotels : Victoria ; Crown). It is 
a pleasant little town, exhibiting at 
one end the characteristics of a sea- 
port, and, at the other, of a bathing- 
place, though from the latter por- 
tion, which is washed by the waters 
of the Lough, there is such a view 
as falls to the lot of few watering- 
places in Great Britain. On the rt. are 
the large ranges of the Carlingford 
Mountains, amongst which the chief 
are Clermont Cairn 1674 ft., and Car- 
lingford 1935 ft. At their foot 
nestles the village of Omeath nearly 
opposite Warrenpoint, and further 
down is Carlingford itself; while on 
the horizon are the lighthouses of 
Greenore Point and the Block 
House. On the 1. the Mourne Moun- 
tains rise still higher and more 
abruptly. In a corner, under Slieve 
Ban, is Rostrevor, embowered in 
woods, the road to it skirting the 
coast amidst a succession of pretty 
residences. Below Rostrevor the 
Lough expands, but contracts again 
at Greencastle, from which point the 
open sea may be said to commence. 

Warrenpoint is largely patronized 
by the inhabitants of Newry and 
the N.E. counties generally ; and 
perhaps there is scarce any place 
which offers so many seaside advan- 
tages with so little of the expense 
or extortion peculiar to such towns. 

Distances.— Newry, 6 m. ; Carling- 
ford, G ; Kilkeel, 12 ; Rostrevor, 2. 

Excursions. — 

1. Rostrevor and Slieve Ban. 

2. Carlingford and Omeatli. 
Conveyances. — Rail to Newry. 
Before quitting Warrenpoint the 

tourist should take a boat and cross 
over to Omeath (Hotel: O'Hagan's), 



Ireland. 



Route 1. — Carlingford. 



39 



a pictai little spot at the foot 

the Mountains, and thence proceed 
to Carlingford. The road runs cl< 

lmt little room being Kit 
for it by the liills which rise BO 
abruptly. Boon the Two-mile River 
rusl - down from the Omeath 
Mountain; and a little further on. 
1 1 Men River, after a rapid 
from the rugged heights of 
Slieve Foy, talis into th 

G m, Carlingford {Inn : Ilum- 
phi - - nee a town of such im- 
rtance that it is said to have p - 
- 1 no less than 32 buildings in the 
of castles and abbeys, and of 
oh antiquity that it claims the 
honour of I 'he landing place of 

Si Patrick in the 5th cent. The 
probable explanation of the former 
aent is that in the warlike days 
of the Pale every house in Carling- 
ford was built in the castellated form 
for of defence and pro- 

•tion. King John ordered a castle to 
. which was accordingly 
done by De Courcey in 1210: The 
wn quickly grew up around it, and 
I no inconsiderable part in the 
Ions history of the times. As 
nk it took, Carling- 
from Edward 
II.. 1 If' nry \\l., Eliza- 

L, and James II. It 
1 in a little 
ids 
views of t! une Moun- 

. 

• :i of 
-horn of a 
portion of sunlight. The 
■ — 
1. Of Kin- I m- 

bling, m 3 of the 13th 

itiou of which is i 
»us thing about it. It 
lilt upon a r the 

. with the 

:. Here was 
I ripal enti . defended by 

form, th»- west or land 
ig pi 1 by th'' mounl 

pass. In the in: in addition 



to the apartments, is a courtyard, 
round which ran a gallery, w 
recess* - at the Loopholes for the 
protection of the archers. The walls 

were of the thickness in BOme pla< i 

of 11 ft. 

2. Between the castle and the 
abbey is a square bower, the windo 1 

o\ which are curiously carved with 

rpents, grotesque heads, and other 
devices. 

3. The Abbey, founded by Richard 
De Burgh, Earl of Ulster, in t 

14th cent., for the Dominican order, 

mimics in an unusual degree the 
military with the ecclesiastical cha- 
racter. 

It consists of a nave and chanc 
at the junction of which rb 
tower on pointed arches. At the W. 
end are two other towers or turn 
connected by a battlement, and at 
the E. end is a pointed window, all 
the tracery and mullions having dis- 
appeared long ago. 

In 1649 Lord Inchiquin, one of 
Cromwell's generals, occupied Car- 
lingford, and, with the usual irre- 
verence of those days, turned the 
abbey into a stable. 

There is one more square tower, 
which probably belonged to the 
fortified bouses of the Pale. On t ; 

tf is the King - Seat, " so call' 
the Lord Thomas of Lan- 
m of 1 bury IV., wh<> landed 
in 1 I - 3 Poid Lieutenant of Ire- 
Land, used <>\'\<-n to sit upon a stone 

.t between the bai - to enjoy 

the prosp 

ough Carlingford is well ^;tu- 

d fur the purposes of trade) it 
has non in an article dear 

to gourmands— oysters. To every 
inhabitant of Dublin the name of 
< urlingford < : - - icri d, and 

servedly so, as they are uu- 
questionably the 6 and m< 

luscious kind t > h obtaine 1. * k The 

ster fishery is la immencing 

before the 1st Monday in Novemh 

I : ; 1 1 i_r eii the I -i Saturday in 
M irch. The b id from Gre - 



40 



Route 4t.— Newry to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



ore Point up to Narrow Water, 

and during the season S or 10 sail- 
boats, and nearly 100 row-boats, with 
5 men in each, are engaged in 
dredging." Such is the reputation 
that "rale Oarlingfords *' have ob- 
tained, that i)-10tlis of the supplies 
sold in the towns are Oarlingfords 
only in name. Should the traveller 
be in the N.E. of Ireland during the 
oyster season, he should pay a visit 
to Warrenpoint for the purpose of 
identifying and tasting the true kind. 

The pedestrian should not leave 
this beautiful neighbourhood without 
ascending Carlingford Mountain, the 
highest point of the lofty range that 
fills up this promontory of Louth. 
It commences at Fathom Hill, oppo- 
site Newry, and from that point 
abruptly rises to 1000 ft., attaining 
the maximum at Carlingford, 1935 ft., 
to the E. of which a deep glen runs up 
from the sea, dividing the range like 
a fork. The view, as may be easily 
imagined, is superb. Northward are 
the Mourne Mountains, Slieve Ban, 
and Slieve Donard, with their at- 
tendant groups. Eastward are the 
Slieve Gullion Hills and the undu- 
lating country between Dundalk, 
Castleblayney and Armagh. South- 
ward is the bay of Dundalk with its 
headlands, from Cooley Point imme- 
diately underneath to Dunany Point 
anl Clogher Head. The geological 
structure of the Carlingford mountains 
is trap, in various states of crystal- 
lization, from amorphous basalt to 
porphyrated and crystalline green- 

ae. 

3 m. beyond Carlingford is Green- 
ore Point, where it is in contem- 
plation to erect a large dock for the 
accommodation of Newry shipping, 
the connection to be maintained by 
a rly.] 

The drive from Warrenpoint to 
Bostrevor is hardly to be equalled 
for beauty, either of mountain or 
e<»ast scenery. The road is lined 
witli pretty seats, the most con- 
spicuous being Moygannon (Major 



Hall), Bladenburgh, otherwise called 
Topsy-turvy (D. Ross, Esq.), Rosetta 
(S. Beid, Esq.), Carpenham (Mrs. 
Ford), Green Park (Hon. Mrs.Maude), 
and Drumsisk (H. Bowan, Esq.), near 
which last is a lofty granite obelisk 
to the memory of Gen. Ross, who, 
according to the insertion, was pre- 
sent at the affairs of Alexandria, 
Maida, Vittoria, Corunna, and the 
Pyrenees. 

8 m. Bostrevor {Hotel : Sangster s), 
the sweetest little watering-place 
to be found in the 3 kingdoms : 
quiet, sheltered by mighty moun- 
tains and shady woods, it will equally 
suit the delicate invalid requiring 
sea air, the artist seeking materials 
for his taste, and the general visitor. 
The little town is placed between 
the embouchure of 2 rivers, and is 
flanked on one side by the Lodge, 
the residence of Col. Roxburgh. 
From the Wood house (the beautiful 
villa of S.Ramadge, Esq.), rather more 
than a mile from the town, the ascent 
is usually commenced of the Rostrevor 
Mountain, or Slieve Ban, which rises 
very steeply to the height of 1595 ft. 
About 2-3rds of the way up, on the 
top of a secondary hill, separated by 
a valley from Slieve Ban, is Clough- 
more ("Cloech Mor," great stone, or 
Cloech Meor, finger stone), a singular 
boulder mass of granite, of about 30 
tons. There is a legend atached to 
it that the giant Finn M'Comhal was 
challenged by Benandonner, a Scotch 
giant, which challenge being ac- 
cepted, the pair confronted each 
other, the one on Carlingford, the 
other on Slieve Ban. Finn, by way of 
a jn'eparatory training, flung Clough- 
more at his antagonist across the 
Lough, who decamped in a fright. 
The walks in the neighbourhood of 
Rostrevor are numerous and varied, 
the Mourne Hills alone furnishing 
as much collar-work as is needed by 
any pedestrian. 

Excursions. — 

1. Warrenpoint. 






Bouie 1. — Hilltoum — Kilkeel — X stle. 



41 



2. ( e and Slieve Ran. 

Kilbron< y and Hilltown. 
Kilkeel and Greencastle. 
[A picturesque road runs through 

tp in the hills to 
7 in. Hilttown, passing Kilbroney 
oii<l its ruined ch., one of the 
simplest and earliesi form, over- 
tdowed by the branches of a fine 
old oak, which lias grown out of the 
wall to a Breath eight. Hilltown 
Hotel, Devonshire Arms, very good) 
a remarkably neat village under 
the care of the Marquess o( Down- 
situated at the H confluence of 
the '2 or 3 streamlets that form the 
Barm. About 2 m. on the Down- 
Is: road is a cromlech supported 
3, locally known as Finn's 
Fingerstone.] 

I 3sing <>n the rt. Ballyedmond 

\. B1 if. Esq.), and crossing 

I y Water, the tourist 

shea I ."> m. Mourne Park, the 

lul i st of the Earl of Kil- 

the woods and grounds of 

the base of Knockchree 

Hill r), 101$ fiL, crowned on 

the summit wil b an ol >5ervatory. Here 

Wl ite Wi b r is en ss< d, and a 

• the sands into 

which i 1 - itself, n< ar Green- 

The ; 38, which 

is of those 

■ .v. i's i I by 

barons t«> pr< fcect 

prior t«» the 

;-i 1 1:* \« • proved 

entrant 

< rd Lough, though now 

I I-.- ov( rl< >k< 1 from any 

the neighbouring h< 

;■ flanks it 

Ti i~ 

l vel with the n ck on which 

tic built, and is supp rted 

. A din cl road of \\ m. 

rui; 

Kilk d Kilmon y An 

iving townlet of 

[nhab. Though placed 

lino strand, affording every 

omodation for bathn od 



not far from the I' •! of fcliC 

Mourne Mountains, Kilkeel has no1 
as yet assumed the position of a 
watering-place. Perhaps, however, 
in the estimation o\ % many thismay he 
an additional attraction. Near the 
town is the Ahhcv. the residence of 
T. Gibson Henry, Esq. 

( km w yana s.— Car to Newry ; t> > 
Newcastle. 

Distances. — Rostrevor, 10 in. ; 
Newry, IS: Newcastle, 12; Dun- 
drum, 17: Greencastle, d.!- ; Mourne 
Park, 3; Hilltown. 13. 

From Kilkeel the lend, crossing 

the Kilkeel River, speedily ap- 
proaches to the coast, occupying t 
v< ry limited strip of level ground 1 • - 
tween the mountains and the Bea. 
At Annalong, near which is Glass 
Drummond, the Beat of Mrs. Senior, 
another of these mountain streams is 
erossed, and again a 3rd at Bloody 
Bridge, above which JS] ence's Moun- 
tain and Crossone 1777 ft. ri 
abruptly to the 1. "The road rises 
perpendicularly more than 100 ft. 
above the sea, from which it is se- 
parated by rocky precipices and 
shelving cliffs, indented with yawn- 
ing caverns, so terrifically lashed by 
the tremendous wave- ;i> to impart to 
the coast ;i character of extraordinary 
sublimity." As we wind along tl e 
(•lifts, the beautiful woods of Donard 
Lodge come in sight, and al the very 
foot 9 ' \< Donard itself the little 
town of 

i m. Newcastle (Hotel: Annesley 
Arms, good ; where the tourist, espe- 
cially it';i pedestrian, should by nil 

ans halt tor a Bhort time, that I 
may ascend the mighty Donard. 

Betwe< ii Bloody Bridge and New- 
castle are several spots marked by 

ae natural curiosities, and <• 
quently invested with b l< gend ; such 
I tonard's ( lave, Maggj - I i ip, 
and Armor's Bole, which latter 
attained its notoriety from a foul 
murder commits d by one Edward 
Armer on his fal h< r. 

tie iiin.-t .-oon pp - . 



42 



Boute 4. — Newry to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



formidable rival to Rostrevor, as, in 
addition to the usual advantag 
for bathing, and more romantic 
scenery, it p s a rather cele- 

brated Spa; indeed, Dr. Knox calls 
it the Scarborough of Ireland. The 
Spa is situated about ^ m. from the 
town on the hill-side and adjoin- 
ing the beautiful grounds of Do- 
nard Lodge, through which, by the 
courtesy of the Earl of Annesley, the 
tourist is free to wander. There 
are various pleasant and picturesque 

>ts in the neighbourhood of the 
Spa, such as the Hermit's Glen, the 
Rookery, the Waterfall, &c. 

[It is a longer excursion to 
Bryansford (Hotel : Koden Arms, very 

od), a charming little village close 
to Toll j j more Park, the seat of the 
Earl of Roden. The visitor will not 
easily tire of the beauties which meet 
him at every turn during his wan- 
derings through the grounds. The 
river SLimna, — 

" a brooklet gushing 
From its rocky fountain near, 
Down into the valley rushing, 
So fresh and wondrous clear," 

— flows through the grounds in a 
series of cascades to fall into the sea 
at Newcastle, while the views of the 
ocean, the Isle of Man, and the 
overhanging mountains, are inex- 
pressibly fine. From Tollymore it is 
a little over 3 m. to Castleivellan, 
another neat and flourishing little 
town, almost surrounded by plea- 

:it demesnes. Of these the most 
important is Castlewellan House, 
also a seat of the Earl of Annesley, 
in the grounds of which is a con- 

lerable lake. Near the town are the 
extensive flax-spinning mills of the 
Messrs. Muirhead, the first place in 
Ireland where machinery was used 
for this purpose. 

Distances. — Dundrum, 5 m. ; Hill- 
town, 9J ; Newcastle, 4.1 ; Newry, 19.] 

Shove Donard, 279G ft., is the 
highest point of the lofty Mourne 
range that stretches from Newry to 



1 )undrum, at once the finest and most 
picturesque hills in the N. of Ireland, 
with the exception of the Donegal 
Mountains. The ascent may be 
made either from the Spa Well, or 
by following the course of the Glen 
River on the N. side. A precipitous 
escarpment that overhangs this 
stream is called the Eagle Rock. 
Magnificent indeed is the view 
which greets the pedestrian from the 
summit of Slieve Donard. To the 
"W. is a vast expanse of ocean, re- 
lieved only by the blue hills of the 
Isle of Man, in which Snafell is 
plainly visible ; while Newcastle, A.n- 
nalong, and Dundrum lie snugly 
at the feet. To the N. are the 
rich and varied plains of the dis- 
trict known in foimer times as Le- 
caie, embracing many a fruitful 
acre and many a prosperous town. 
To the W. and S.W. are minor 
satellites in the shape of the less 
lofty peaks of the Mournes ; the 
principal of which are Slieve Com- 
medagh, 2512 ft. ; Slieve Bearnagh, 
2394 ; Slieve Meel, 2257 ; the Cock 
and the Hen Mountains in the 
most northerly group ; the Chimney 
Rock, 2152 ;— Slieve Bingian, 2449 ; 
Slieve Lamagan, 2306 ; Shanlieve, 
2055 ; and the Eagle Mountain, 
2084, more to the S. Over Rostre- 
vor are Slieve Ban and Knockchree ; 
while still further beyond Newry are 
the ranges' of Slieve Gullion. South- 
wards we have the Carlingford Hills, 
the Hill of Howth, and in clear wea- 
ther the faint ridges of the Wicklow 
Mountains. From its peculiar posi- 
tion and its huge height, Slieve Do- 
nard certainly offers one of the most 
extraordinary prospects in Great 
Britain. 

The botanist will find on these 
hills Polypodium dryopteris, Lyco- 
podium alpinum, Car ex spierostachya, 
Salix herbacea, Pinguicula Lusi- 
tanica, Melanopsis cambrica, &c. 
The geological composition of the 
Mourne Mountains is granite, yield- 
ing in some places good specimens of 



Ireland. 



I? I. — Dundrum — Ardgla 






and emerald. The 

-pal j at which they n 

1 ia the bob fece of 

-' >gh or the Diamond 

k. \ r the Chimney Rock 

b ryls ' I d found in great 

numbers." — VoyU . 

A deep vale divides it from 
oaven, or the Creeping Moun- 
tain, which Btanda to the S.W., and 
j to the view a huge rock 
distance an old forti- 
ry high, and detached, as 
from the eastern Bide of the 
mo- i." 

1 s from Newcastle daily 

Ballynahinch ; daily to Down- 
patrick. 

/' ?. — Newry, 30 m. ; Rostre- 

r, 22 : 1 hmdrum, 5 : Annalong, 7 : 
Kilkeel, 12; Castlewellan, 4£. 
E ms. — 

1. Armer'a Hole, Maggy's Leap, 

K 
■- Blieve Donard. 

Tollymore and Briansford. 
4. Dundrum and Ardglass. 
The next point in our route is 
85 m. Dundrum, a small bathing 
* vill; I on the 

1 1 indium Bay, in 
which the < " g am-ship 

after tl ce- 

r. To the ] 
1 clifls on which 
hith- 1. 

adhills and 
which the vill: 
v plea* situation. 
h laritimum flourish 

ity. 

king ' 
1 a fi w « 
rally i ! to hi 

.- in the i 
i cent, and held 
: it afi . d 

ful clan who had many p 

d. It v 

when in repair, 
of; to this 

and as often an offensii hbour to 



the English planted in Lk i 
ing to the bands thai p ed it.*' — 

Harris, lis principal featur 
circular keep and lower, with a barl 
can and other outworks, which were 
dismantled by Cromwell. 
Near the castle is a ruined man- 
q, of probably the 16th cent. 
Dundrum p s» — a a small pier 
built by the Marquess ol' Downshrre, 
and an equally small trade : indeed 
the navigation hereabouts is nol v< 
safe, owing to a bar a1 the entranc 
of the river, and an ugly reef of i 
known as Craigalea, and the Cow 
and Calf. 

[The traveller who wishes to pro- 
ceed at once to Downpatrick 8J m., 
can do bo by striking inland, paean 
Ardilia (Rev. W. Annesle; ad 
Mount Panther J. Allen. Esq.) : the 
latter place acquired its singular 
name from a certain legend resem- 
bling that of St. George and the 
Dragon. 

At the village of Clough there is 
only a single tower remaining of the 
castle, and in the neighbourhood 
Seaforde village and House (Rev. W. 
Porde).] 

Passing ?>7l m. rt. Tyrella Hoi 
(A. H. Montgomery, Esq. andch.,tl 

in approaches near the coast, 
which further on juts oui to the 
Promontory of Si. John, the western 

andary of Dundrum Bay. On I 
poini is b I I I Stat., and a 

Lighthouse showing an intermittent 
light 

- h. of St. John's contains 
singular font, in which there is no 
passage for the water to escape. 

43 in. KiUough, a fishing villa] 
on the E. shore of the little ba^ 
Killough, which runs up 
little distance, n. < ing a c 

Biderable devour in the road. ( >n tl e 
opp I ey Island, i 

i in. farther 

. which in ' 
glory was tl e principal porl in all 
I thought of Buchgr 



u 



Route 4. — Neicry to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



importance as to require the protection 
of no loss than 5 castles. Although 
these palmy times are gone, Ardglass 

even yet enjoys a good deal of trade, 
from being the head-quarters of the 
northern herring fishery, in which 
something like 15000 fishermen are en- 
gaged It is also an attractive bath- 
Lng-place for the residents of Down- 
patiick. 

The name of Ardglass (anc. Ard- 
glaisi), "High Green," is derived 
from its position between two hills, 
the Ward of Ardglass on the W., 
and the Ward of Ardtole on the E., 
both useful landmarks to sailors. 
A large trading company obtained a 
grant from Henry IV. and settled 
here, and it is to them that with 
most probability mnst be ascribed 
the erection of the Neio Works, a very 
singular range of buildings overlook- 
ing the rocks of the bay. They are in 
length 250 ft., and are flanked by 
a square tower at each end, in ad- 
dition to one in the centre, the 
intervening walls being entered by 
15 arched doorways, between each of 
which is a square window. There 
were thus 18 rooms on the ground 
floor, with the same number in an 
upper story, and were evidently 
used as a fortified warehouse for mer- 
chants. " In 1789 Lord Charles 
Fitzgerald, son of the Duke of Lein- 
ster, who was then proprietor, caused 
that portion of the building between 
the central and western towers to be 
enlarged in the rear, and raised to 
the height of 3 stories in the castel- 
lated style ; and from that time it has 
been en lied Ardglass Castle. It was 
formerly called Horn Castle, either 
from a great quantity of horns found 
on the spot, or from a high pillar 
which stood on its summit previously 
to being roofed.'' — Lewis. To the 
W. of this is the square tower of 
Ohoud or Cowd Castle. Overlooking 
the town on the N.W. is the ancient 
Bang's Castle, which has been in- 
corporated with the handsome modern 
resi< Lence of Major Beauclerk, the pro- 



prietor of the town. Lastly, in the 
centre is Jordan's Castle, the only 
one which has any historical celebrity 
among the whole number. During 
the insurrection of the Earl of Ty- 
rone, in the reign of Elizabeth, one 
Simon Jordan held this fortress suc- 
cessfully for 3 years, until he was 
relieved by the Lord Deputy Mount- 
joy. It is singular that, considering 
the former importance of Ardglass 
and the evident care bestowed on its 
defences, so little is known of its 
history or of the builders of these 
fortresses. Their age is probably that 
of the 15th cent. The only remain- 
ing curiosity in the neighbourhood is 
a cavern at the head of the creek of 
the Ardtole, about J m. from the 
town. 

Distances. — Dundrum, 9 m. ; 
Strangford, 9 ; Downpatrick, 7. 

The road continues parallel with 
and at a short distance from the 
coast, which is rocky and precipitous. 
At 47 m. is Guns Island, connected 
with the mainland by a causeway, 
and at Killard Point, a little further 
on, commence the narrow straits 
that connect Strangford Lough with 
the sea. 

50 m. Kilelief, a lofty square for- 
tress of Anglo-Norm, character, and 
generally ascribed to De Courcey as 
the founder, although it subsequently 
came into the possession of the 
Bishops of Down, who occasionally 
used it as a residence. The bishops 
of those days were not as stainless in 
reputation as they are now, for we 
are informed that John Ross, who 
was made Bishop of Down in 1 387, 
was " marked with almost every 
vice." The first story is vaulted, 
and the second has a carved chim- 
ney-piece. At the narrowest part of 
the straits is 

53 m. Strangford, a fishing town, 
exactly opposite Portaferry (lite. 5). 
Adjoining is Castleward, a beautiful 
estate of Viscount Bangor ; and over- 
looking the town on the IS", is the 
ruined keep of Audley Castle, one of 



Ireland. 



Route -!. — Doumpatriclc. 



Ao 



the 27 fort hat were founded by 

De C mi i% 

Du j. — Portaferry,}m.; Down- 
j itrick, 8; Ardglass, 9; Kilclief, 2 

The tourisi now bids adieu to the 
wild it road which he 1 - 

lied for so many miles, and 
follows an inland route to 

61 in. Doumpatrick [Hotel: Den- 

vir'fi . 1 840.) This ancient 

city is situated on the side of a 

hill, which, curving round like an 

amphitheatre, overlooks a plain 

through which the river Quoiie 

winds it.- reedy way towards Lough 

- rd. Approaching either by 

rail or road, the tourisi has a good 

view of the cathedral, riding 

at the extreme W. of the town. 

n be n<> doubl of it- great 

- we ] :' it eveu before 

S . Patrick's time ;is being the resi- 

d nee of tli.- i in t i\« • kings of Ulidia 

1 the Dunum of Ptolemy. St. 
Patrick did not arrive till 4:52, and 
then founded an abbey, the site of 

■ 

which v. nted to him by Diehu, 

- i of Trichem, lord of the soil, 

had converted to Chris- 

oity. The sanctity in which this 

abbey was held maybe inferred from 

th t St. F trick was buried 

wit], m. Bridgi t and 

• olumb. '2 of Ireland's most holy 

» 

circumstance commemorated 

distich of sir John «!<• C mrcey 

1 1 85, "U th- f the 

n TMino tumnlo tunml.intur in uno ; 
'atricitu lumba Pius." 

r \e I » < ceyhad i sti Wished him- 
I ' i d vi > t armiSi and main- 
ion not only against the 
■ ive ] . but even against the 

King John, whose allegian 
ken "if t-, transfer it I 
Arthur of Brittany. Ho wfl , W- 
. . -1 when perfbrm- 

i hi- d< voti »ns in 1 1 1 * - cathedra], 
and i I •• cathe Lral 

much ;st different tim- 
. g been hurnt down by Edward 



Bruce, and again by Lord (-icy in 
1538, for which act <>f profanity I 
was afterwards beheaded. 

The town is Mill built, and divided 
into English, Irish, and Scotch quar- 
ters, the latter being an importanl 
element in the population of all tin 
N.-eastern towns ; there are also 
some handsome county buildings- 
such a- the Court-house, Infirmary, 
and Gaol, the cosl of this Last being 
63,000Z. The cathedral is com- 
paratively modern ; the old building, 
hurnt by Lord Grey, continued in 
ruins for 250 years, the ch. of Lisburn 
doing duty in the mean time as the 
cathedral. In 1790, however, the 
present Perp. building was raised, 
consisting of a nave, choir, and 
aisles, with clerestory, and a fii 
tower of -1 sfc g< - at the W, end. 
At the E. end arc also 2 small 
castellated towers of 8 stages, sur- 
mounted by a parapet, and finished 
oft* with broach spires. There is 
an E. window of 12 compart- 
ments, and above it 3 ogee-headed 
niches which once contained the 
imag - of the saints so ruthlessly 
mutilated by Lord Grey. Under 
the window i< a deeply recessed 

►rway, which is said to hav< 
longed t<» the old cathedral. The 
ales are separated from the nave by 
rai 'f pointed arches, mid the 

i "is - roined and ornamented at the 
intersections with clustered fo] 
From earliest times the Bishopric 
of 1 town has been join< d to thai of 
Connor, although one or two bishops 
caused them to be separated: they 
were, however, again united in ti 
loth <•< nt.. and are now incorporate 
with that ofDromore. Amongst the 
Protestanl bishops, after the Refor- 
mation, was tin- pious Jeremy Tay- 
lor, who at th«- same time held i 
Dromore. 
The visitor will not tail to enjoy 
the exquisite panorama ot* distant 
hill- from ch.-yard, in which 

the Mourne ran| pecially 

as. 



46 



Boute 4. — Neivry to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



It may bo mentioned that a fine 
romul tower once stood at the W. 
end, but was taken away, as fears 
were entertained lest it should fall 
and damage the cathedral. 

The antiquary should visit the 
Rath of Downpatrick, not far from 
the gaol. It was formerly known as 
Rath Keltain, " the Fort of Certain," 
and is the largest in the county, 
being 895 yards broad at the base 
and surrounded by 3 ramparts. 

There is also a remarkable Druid- 
ical ring, with an avenue of stones 
running for 35 ft. in a N.E. direc- 
tion, on the hill of Slieve-na-griddle, 
3 m. to the E. On the way thither 
are the wells of Struel (Struile or 
Sluith-fuile, the Stream of Blood), 
whither on Midsummer-day crowd 
pilgrims from every quarter to try 
the efficacy of the waters in washing 
away their sins. It is one of the 
most celebrated resorts in all Ire- 
land, and famous, or rather in- 
famous, for the mingled scenes of 
credulity, impiety, and indecency 
which are allowed to be openly carried 
on. Having completed their weary 
pilgrimage on bare knees up 
Struel Hill, they resort to the wells. 
" These are 4 in number — the Body 
Well or Well of Sins, the Limb 
Well, the Eye Well, and the Well 
of Life. If they pay a fee, they can 
go into the first, in which they are 
accommodated with a place to un- 
dress ; if not, they must go to the 
Limb Well, in which case they have 
to undress before the multitude, and 

pair in a state of nudity to the 
well, into which they plunge pro- 
miscuously. Having thus washed 
away their sins at the expense of 
their modesty, they repair to the 
Eye Well to wash away the impedi- 
ments to their spiritual vision, after 
which they partake of the 'Waters 
of Lift',' or, as some call it, the Well 
of Forget fulness." — Doyle. The per- 
formances were usually closed with 
a series of religious (?) saturnalia,, 
which, if the accounts of some 



writers be true, - should have "been 
long ago summarily stopped by the 
civil authorities. 

2 m. N.E. are slight remains of 
the abbey of Saul, built in the 12th 
cent, by Malachi O 'Morgan, Bishop 
of Down. It was formerly a cruci- 
form ch., but the greater part of it 
has disappeared. About a mile to 
the W., on the shore of the estuary 
of the Quoile, stand the ruins of an 
embattled tower. 

On the opposite side of the estu- 
ary are the ruins of the abbey of 
Inch, erected in the 12th cent, by 
John de Courcey, and supplied with 
monks from Furness, in Lancashire. 
Although originally a cruciform ch., 
little is left of it save the chancel, 
which is lighted by E. Eng. lancet 
windows of beautiful design. A 
primitive ch. of much earlier date 
still exists on the island, and is said 
to have been the predecessor of the 
present abbey. Over the S. door is 
a sculpture, representing a person 
praying to the Saviour on the Cross. 

Conveyances from Downpatrick to 
Belfast by rail. Car daily to Newry 
and Newcastle. 

Distances^ — Newry, by the coast 
road, 61 m. : Dundrum, 8J ; Strang- 
ford, 8 ; Ardglass, 7 ; Killough, 7h ; 
Killyleagh, 6 ; Belfast, 27 ; Ballyna- 
hinch, by rail, 12£ ; Struel, 3 ; Saul, 2. 

Excursions. — 

1. Strangford and Kilclief, 

2. Struel and Saul. 

3. Ballynahinch. 

Passing the village and stat. of 
Crossgar 5 J m., we arrive at a point 
from whence a short branch is given 
off to 

[Ballynahinch, which of late years 
has attracted valetudinarians from 
its bracing air and the efficacy 
of its medicinal waters. There 
are 2 wells, the one containing 
lime, sulphuric, muriatic, and car- 
bonic acids ; and the other having, 
in addition, a small amount of prot- 
oxide of iron. They are strongly 
recommended by Dr. Knox in cases 



elan . Route 5. — Belfast to Denagha 






tions, cutaneous dis- 

\d general debility. The Spa 

fully planted and laid out in 

ornamental walks, and the accom- 

d. Adjoin- 
in town is Montalto, formerly 
dence <>f the Earla of Moira, 
id now of I>. Kerr. Esq., M.P. 
'■ lUynahinch is situated pleasantly 
in a vale at the foot of the 
Ieve Croob Mountains ( 1753 f . . 
which lie between it ami Castlewel- 
n, and contain the Bources i 

a, that runs by Dromore 
On the side of Slieve I 
the antiquary will find a very Lai 

round at the 
Excursions may also be made to 
Hi . 9 m.: Banbridg< . 17 

swellan, 1 li.v.J 
I . — 

1. Hillsborough and Dromore 

Croob. 

K illy] . a small town on the 

autiftdly siiu- 

s of Lough Strang- 

for being I 

Sir Hans Sloan, the 

i Mus urn. The 

1 J >r.Hincks, bo we'd known for 

'. - yrian researches, 

tor of the parish. 

A tutifully 

baldHamil- 
bich one of the tow< 
. i\ 
at th< 
a. 

O »ntinuing our course on the mi 

all bui 
I town, where lin< 

B [fast i ari 
the batl Saint- 
ni L7S Bharp and bloody 

i b( twe< ii the Uni 
i under Munroe, and I 
ry under I „,. 

•ugh the r. 1- Is ai sj 

: Munro 



Ballynahincb with an army of 71 00, 
but here his good fortune d< serfo d 
him. The Royal forces und( r Gen. 
Nugent had oecuph d the town, and. 
although the rebels fought witlj 
desperate gallantry, discipline pre- 
vailed, and they were routed with 
gr< at slaughter, Munroe himself 
being captured and executed. The 
ill-success of this last movement com- 
pletely crusm d the rebellion. 

L9 in. Comber Stat., the point of 
junction with the Donagliad< e line 
Ette. S . From hence it is 8 m. to 
Belfast. 



ROUTE 5. 

BELFAST TO DONAGHADEE. 

Bdfast {Holds: Imperial, Royal, 
the best; Queen's, Albion, good; 
besid< veral others of a le 

nsive character) is the metropolis 
of X. Ireland, and indeed ran] 
next to Dublin in the whole king- 
dom for size and importance. It is 
a city of essentially modern growth 
and appearance, and ich will 

Burprise and pl< , traveller w 

visits ii t any Length ned i - 

perience of [rish towns, on a< count of 
its spacious and well-arrang< d stre< 
and squares, i q< n ! cleanlin< 

and good order, and the beautii 
i samples of d< corative archit< 
displayed bo largely in its public 
buildin Belfast appears to <<■ 

these advantage s in a great <l _•■: 
to the fact that it is presided 
over and inhabited by q race 
which unit, a ii.. Scottish th id 

decorum with [rish impulsiv< 
and kindlin. as. A fort is biown 

id," i! 
Mouth of the Ford, before the \« 
1178, but, with the i .v- ption i 

natives, it 



43 



Boute 5. — Belfast. 



Ireland. 



had but little history, and its im- 
portance as a port may be altogether 
dated from the time of James I., 
when the estates were granted to 
the Chichester family, and certain 
port monopolies were purchased from 
the Corporation of Carrickfergus. In 
the Parliamentary wars it was taken 
by Gen. Munroe, and changed hands 
four times in six years, a state of 
things which did not add to the 
increase of trade or population. (Pop. 
120,544.) 

The situation is well adapted for 
commercial as well as residential 
purposes, the town lying at the base 
of a lofty chain of hills that runs up 
from the S., and ends abruptly 
with the Cave Hill, a somewhat pre- 
cipitous basaltic eminence rising to 
the height of 1158 ft. To the E. is 
the noble Belfast Lough, the head 
of which is marked by a singularly 
long bridge crossing the Lagan at 
its mouth. In consequence of the 
shelter afforded by these hills, the 
temperature is very mild, being only 
one degree below that of Torquay. 

The communications of Belfast are 
many and regular : inland by 4 
railways ; seaward, by steamers in- 
numerable, which keep up a daily 
intercourse with the principal Eng- 
lish and Scotch ports. 

The number of vessels that entered 
and cleared out from the port in 
1859 was between 6000 and 7000, 
the annual value of its imports and 
exports being 9,000,000Z., and the 
gross produce of the customs in 
ie years 37b',000Z. Linen 
is of course the -staple trade, Bel- 
fast b ring the centre of all the 
manufacturing districts of Down, 
Antrim, and the northern counties. 
" A great source of employment for 
females has of late years sprung up 
in the north of Ireland in the work- 
ing of patterns on muslin with the 
needle. This manufacture employs 
about 300,000 persons scattered 
throughout Ulster. About 40 firms 
are engaged in the trade, some being 



Irish houses, and others agents for 
Scotch firms ; the gross value of 
the manufactured goods amounts 
to about 1,400,000?!"— Thorn's Di- 
rectory. 

The harbour is formed by the 
tidal channel of the Lagan, through 
which excavations were cut, with a 
depth of 23 ft. at high water. Both 
sides are lined with quays, 5000 and 
3500 ft. respectively on the western 
and eastern sides. The Prince's and 
the Clarendon Docks afford every 
accommodation for foreign vessels 
loading or unloading, and there are 
graving-docks and slips for repairs. 

The Lagan is crossed by 3 bridges, 
of which the Queen's (of 5 granite 
arches of 50 ft. span) is the most 
beautiful. It stands on the site of 
the Long Bridge, which was 840 ft. 
in length. The other 2 are the 
Albert and the Ormeau Bridges. 
The places of interest in the town 
are soon exhausted, as their chief 
beauty consists in the exteriors. 
The Commercial Buildings have a 
fine Ionic facade, and the Custom- 
house, which is well situated, is a 
freestone edifice, with a Corinthian 
front. The Banks, however, carry 
off the palm for decorative art, and 
the Ulster Bank in particular should 
be well studied for its elaborate 
details, particularly of the entabla- 
tures and cornices. The visitor 
should also inspect the interior, 
which is equally beautiful, though 
perhaps as a whole a little over- 
done. 

The Queen's College, near the 
Botanic Gardens (well worth visit- 
ing), is a Tudor building, with a 
front 600 ft. in length, relieved 
by a graceful tower in the centre. 
Of very opposite style is the other 
educational institution of Belfast, the 
Presbyterian College. 

The Belfast Museum, in College 
Square, has -' its first story in imi- 
tation of the Choragic monument of 
Thrasyllus, with a portico which is 
an exact copy of that of the octagon 



I 



Route 5. — Cave Hill, 



40 



i :' Andronicos at Athena ; 
the upper portions art- designed after 
pie of Minerva." 
churches ore, generally speak- 
ing, of thr classical order of archi- 
the 2 best being the Parish 
inrch, which has a lofty tower and 
•:•! ( Shrist Church, a Perp. 
building with an octagonal spire, an 
\o ption to the prevailing 
Le. The portico of St. Georg a 
finally a portion of the front 
B Hyscallion House, a mansion 

» 

• 1 by the eccentric Earl of 
B is1 I. on the shores of Lough 
N _ . On his death, it was pur- 
- I and presented to this ch. by 
1>:. Alexander, Bishop of Down. 
• ;• should also notice the 
Ulster Hall in Bedford Street, the 
Music Hall in May Street, and a very 
fiii- I- stitution, of the Tudor order, 
.1 >uml>, and Blind, 
e ilax-mills arc perhaps the 
interesting objects in the city, 
tor should not omit 
these < stablishments. 
That of 31 Mulholland is the 

and will give a hotter idea 
ny other of the extent 
The firm that owns 
• .'• of the 

•yarn mannt. 
in B ;id now employs 

1 indirectly near] 2; 
I principal t - 

I and ( 

the R d- 
1 W( . I A ' I I [i . . 

. < I Co., A 

i «»f tin- flax and linen trade 
will be found in Introduction 

hut it may be mentioned 
that in 1860 ti. 

a B upwards <>f 

of limn, vahi 

• _ L sterling, and .at 

yarns ds t<» 

tli. unt of .. valu. d 

at 76 I ,:,/ . Nor is i: only aa a 

turing centre thai 1 1 is 

pre-emi i ( qually not< d 

1 by her in- 



habitants in literature and the arts, 
which are cultivated to an extent 

unknown in any other city in Ire- 
land, save Dublin. The earliesl 
edition of the Bible was printed 
here in 17o 1, and the third news- 
paper, as regards date, viz. the Bel- 
fast News-letter, began its exist nee 
in 17:57. The communications by 

land and water are many and fit - 
quent. Three railways have their 
terminus lure, viz., the Belfast and 
County Down to Donaghadee and 
Downpatrick; the Ulster to Porta- 
down and Omagh; the Northern 
Counties to C\»h raine : all of which 
throw out branch-lines in dififerenl 
part.- of their con: 

The following steamers also sail 
from the port: to Bristol weekly; 
Fleetwood daily; Annan 3 times a 
week; to Carlisle; to Dublin, Dum- 
fries, Liverpool, Glasgow, White- 
haven, Morecambe, Waterford, Lon- 
donderry, London. 

Distance*. — Dublin, 113 m. ; Dro- 
gheda, 81 ; Dundalk, 50 ; Deny, 04 ; 
Downpatrick, 27; Donaghadee, 22 ; 
Holy wood, 5 : Bangor, 12 ; Newtown- 
ards, 13j ; Comber, 8 ; Lisburn, 7 ; 
Moira, 14; Hillsborough, 19 : Antri; 
22 : Carrickfergus, 9£. 

Excursions. — 

1, Gave Hill and Divis. 

2. Dundonald, Kempe Ston 
:!. Drumbo. 

4. Holywood. 

< irrickfergus Rte. l: 
6. Antrim (Rte. 12). 
The tourist should not have \\> l- 

fi>t without paying a visil to ( 
/////, which overhangs the city, at a 
distance of about 2 m., and Is in- 
teresting both in a geological and 
antiquarian point of view. It fori 
the northern termination of the 
chalk ranges thai stretch from Lis- 
burn and axe capped with basall ; 
although, geologically, tin 
strata an n commend I t 

NVW. of Carrickfergus, and fc ad 

al< i the ( liant's 

way. " it coi f an over- 

D 



50 



Route 5. — Belfast to Donagliadee. 



Ireland, 



lying mass of tabular trap in a vast 

scries of strata, which in some places 
exceed 900 ft. of thickness in the 
aggregate, resting upon a stratum 
of white chalk in a highly vitrified 
tte, in which there is a large 
quantity of Hint both in lamiiue and 
nodules ; the greensand underlies 
the chalks, beneath which the oolitic 
formation crops out, but of such a 
thickness that its series of beds of 
gray, white, and variegated gypseous 
marls have not yet been fully ex- 
plored."' — Boyle. ~ In the perpen- 
dicular face of the rock are the 3 
caves which have given its name to 
the hill ; the 2 lowest being 21 and 
10 ft. respectively in length, and 
the upper one considerably larger, 
though so placed as to be well-nigh 
inaccessible. The summit is crowned 
by an earthwork, known as the Fort 
of Mac Art, " from itsr having been 
one of the last strongholds of Brian 
Mac Art (O'Neill), who, with his 
sept, was exterminated by Deputy 
Mountjoy in the reign of Elizabeth." 
On one side it is protected by the 
precipice, and on the other by a 
deep ditch. Cave Hill is not the 
highest point of this range, being 
overtopped on the S. side by Divis, 
1507 ft., and on the N. by Collin- 
ward, 119G, while at the back are the 
Wolfs Hill, 1210, and Squire's Hill, 
1230. In the former hill are other 
caves in the chalk limestone, and at 
the base of the latter are several raths 
where implements of early warfare, 
such as celts, arrow-heads, and hat- 
chets were discovered. If the visitor 
be neither antiquary nor geologist, 
he will, nevertheless, be delighted 
with the view from any one of these 
heights, which embrace a panorama 
of great beauty. At the foot lies 
Belfast, with its churches, mills, 
and docks ; the harbour, and the 
broad lough of Strangford; the 
hills of Down on the opposite side, 
sprinkled with many a smiling 
village ; while afar in the distance 
are the dim outlines of the Ayrshire 



coast, and on a clear day the cliffs 
of the Isle of Man. To the W. is 
a broad expanse of Co. Antrim, in 
which Lough Neagh plays a con- 
spicuous part, while the chalk hills in 
the neighbourhood of Coleraine and 
Deny fill up the background with 
grand effect. The following plants 
are found here and at Colin Glen : 
Asplenium ceterach, Aspidium loba- 
tima, A. aculeatum, Equisetum va- 
riegatum, Festuca calamaria, Listera 
nidus avis, Orobanche rubra, Hiera- 
cium murorum, Circa3aalpina, Adoxa 
moschatellina*. On the return to the 
town, the remains of an intrench- 
ment, thrown up by William III. in 
the grounds of Fort William close to 
the water's edge, may be visited ; 
and near the Belfast water -works the 
geologist should notice an elevated 
deposit of marine shells of the ter- 
tiary (pliocene) era. On the E. bank 
of the Lagan, 1 m. from Belfast, is 
Ormeau, the seat of the Marquis of 
Donegal. For further particulars 
about Belfast the traveller may con- 
sult M'Comb's 'Guide,' a handy and 
useful little work. 

[It is a pleasant excursion up the 
valley of the Lagan to the village 
of Newtown-breda, and thence to 
Drumbo. The former overlooks the 
Lagan, from the foot of the hill of 
Castlereagh, the site of the once 
famous palace of Con O'Neill. By 
an inquisition in the reign of Eliza- 
beth it appears that Con O'Neill 
was the last of that sept, and was 
possessed of no less than 224 town- 
lands, all freehold. Adjoining the 
village are a Grecian ch., built. by 
Viscountess Middleton, and Bel voir 
Park, the seat of Sir R. Bateson, 
Bart. The ruins of the old parish 
ch. of Knock are in the S.E. 
portion of the district, and near 
it is a cromlech of 5 supporters, 
together with a rath. 

The round tower at Drumbo is 
35 ft. in height and 47 in circum- 
ference. Of this Petrie observes, 
" The oldest towers are obvi- 



] LAND. 



1? \uU 5, — DinuJonaM — Comber. 



51 



> constructed ofspawled 

- i iv and large hammered Btom 9, 

and which present simple quadran- 

lar and semicircular arched door- 

with doping jambs. Thedoor- 

Drumbo is only about 4 ft. 

from the ground, which 1ms been 

much raised by interments about it. 

- i that there is no doubt but that its 

el< originally at 1- 8t 8 or 

l" n." The foundations of the old 

eh vii-. d to St. Patrick, are 

i to tl SJ3, of the town. A 

large quantity of bones and a por- 

' leton were found within 

this which, when opened, pre- 

11 the appearance i itrifi- 

< >n th( return from Drumbo 

ould visit the Giant's 

tlie largest and mosl 

irly remains existing in 

►m. It is an extensive 

ft. in diameter, 

. an area of 10 acres, and 

I by a Lofty mound, of which 

thickness at the base is 80 ft. 

T! - me idea of what the 

■ have been when it was 

mow. though greatly 

■. it is high enough to 

tut out the view of the country 

In the centre is the altar, 

4 large blocks supporting the in- 

. while on the W. and 

i oth< r del 1 atom 

in th<- time when ]1 

w. - - 1 ' • ty of County Down, 1 

1744, the incumbent block is stated 

pported by 2 ran. 
pillars, 7 The pro- 

ible remain 

afforded 

it by I late Vis :oun1 Dungannon, 

strong wall all round.] 
The visitor i. turn to Bell * 

fr K ck ^ - <t. on the Bell 

. . I ty 1 k>wn lily., which con- 
seller to D 

' tn. in length, 
in ches to Holy- 

binch. 'i 
f the river. 
ring the town 



branch Bkirts tlie Bhores of t ! • 
lough to Sydenham and Holywood. 

5 m., both pleasant marine suburbs, 
where the Belfast merchants 1<> 
to dwell. Sydenham has within 

the lasl few years been extensively 
built <»ver with villas, some of which 
occupy the site of an ancient burying- 
g round, said to have contained the 
tomb of Con O'Neill (see ant , 

Holywood derives its name from a 
Franciscan Priory founded in 1200 
by one Thomas Whyte, hut is now 
known only as an agreeable bathing- 
place, for which its position on the 
shore of the lough off< re many ad- 
vantagi s. The Bishop of Down and 
Connor has a residence here, known 

the Palac . The rly. is in course 
of extension to Bangor. 

Distances, — Belfast, 5 m. ; Bangor, 

Returning to the main line, the 
first stat. is 2h m. Knock, from 
whence the tourist may excurse to 
the Giant's King and Drumbo. " 

5 m. Dundonald. 1 m. to the E. 
is a relic of antiquity known as 
the Kempe Stones, an enormous 
mass of rock, weighing upwards 
of 40 tons, supported by 5 rude 
pillars In appearance they re- 
semble Druidical altars, '-hut their 
name, and that of the townland in 
which they are situated, as well as 
tradition, seem to assign to them a 
different origin, and to raise the 
probability that thev were erected 
a memorial to the dead. The 

Itic name of the district was 
BaiUe-clough-togal, Le. 'The Town 
of t\iC Stone of the Strangers :' the 
townland is still called (in en- 
graves." — M'Comb. In the summer 
of 1832 the head and horn.- 

moose-di i r now extinct w. ad 

in an adjacenl I sting on marL 

8 m. 1 ber t the junction from 
wl, I line to Downpatrick 

div< . ! . is a m at thriv- 

ing town, chiefly dependent on the 
linen trade. The ch. is built on 
th> m ancit nt abbey, found* 



52 



Route 5. — Belfast to Donagliadee. 



Ireland. 



in 1201, the monks of which were 
furnished from YVhitland,^ or Alba- 
Laiula, in Carmarthenshire. It con- 
tains monuments to tlie memory of 
persons who fell in the battle of 
Saintfield, 179S (p. 47), and in the 
market-square is a monumental obe- 
lisk to Sir R. Gillespie, a native of 
this town, who fell in Java. 

The rly. to Donagliadee now turns 
round the base of Scrabo Mount, and 
soon comes in sight of the craggy hill 
of Carngaver 720 ft., which is capped 
by a tower erected in memory of 
Charles William Marquis of Lonclon- 
derry, the landlord and owner of all 
this properly. On the it. is Strang- 
ford Lough, an inlet of which flows 
to within J m. of Comber. 

13J m. Newtownards {Hotel: Lon- 
donderry Arms), or Newtown of the 
Ards, the latter being the distinguish- 
ing name of the promontory lying 
between Lough Strangford and the 
sea, formerly designated "Altitudo 
Ultorum juxta Mare Orientale." It is 
a large and well-built town, possessing 
the advantages of a careful super- 
vision by the Londonderry family, 
whose seat Mount Stewart, to the»S.E., 
between Newtown and Grey Abbey, 
is a line classic building, beautifully 
situated in a wooded demesne on the 
shores of Strangford Lough. New- 
townards, though now a bustling linen 
town, was formerly noted for having 
been the centre of a large number of 
religious establishments, the ruins of 
many of which are still in ex- 
istence. The Court-house, which pos- 
sesses a good doorway, w T as originally 
the old ch., built by Sir Hugh Mont- 
gomcry, to whom James I., after the 
forfeiture of Con O'Neill's estates, 
granted the whole of the district. 
The town contains a handsome oc- 
tagonal cross, built to replace the 
one destroyed by the insurgents. 
Newtownards is well situated at the 
foot of the Scrabo hills, where 
limestone and lead-ore are obtained, 
and at the head of the lough of 
Strangford, an arm of the sea about 



1-1 m. in length and 4 to 5 wide. 
The channel of Portaferry, however, 
which communicates with the sea, 
is so very narrow, that the lough looks 
almost like a freshwater lake — an 
appearance to which the number of 
small islands contributes ; and this 
same cause makes it nearly useless 
for navigation purposes (Pop. 9543). 

Conveyances.— Rail to Belfast and 
Donagliadee. Car to Cloghy. 

Distances. — Grey Abbey, 7 m. ; 
Mount Stewart, 5 ; Bangor, 5 ; Do- 
nagliadee, 9. j ; Comber, 5 J. 

Excursions. — 

1. Scrabo. 

2. Grey Abbey and Mt. Stewart. 
[This is the nearest spot from 

whence to visit Grey Abbey, the road 
to which skirts the N.E. shore of 
Strangford Lough, and passes 5 m. the 
Grecian mansion of Mount Stewart, 
the seat of the Londonderry family. 
The house is built of Scrabo stone, 
and the interior is floored with bog 
fir found on the estates. The grounds 
are well wooded, and laid out with 
taste, and contain a classic temple,, 
copied from the " Temple of the 
Winds." 

7 m. Grey Ahbey, a small town, 
which took its rise from the founda- 
tion of an abbey in the 12th cent, 
for Cistercian monks, by Afric, wife 
of John De Courcey, and daughter of 
Godred, King of Man. The ruins 
of this E. Eng. abbey are in re- 
markably good preservation, pro- 
bably owing to the fact that it was 
used , as a parish ch. as late as 
1778. The choir contains some 
lancet windows on the N. wall, and 
a noble E. window of 3 lights, 
upwards of 20 ft. in height ; also 2 
recumbent figures. A tower, now 
fallen, rose from the centre of the 
ch., and was supported by very 
graceful and lofty arches. The abbey 
w T as destroyed in the rebellion of 
Tyrone, " ruinated in Tirowen's 
rebellion," but was subsequently re- 
built by the Montgomeiy family 
(see ante), whose scat of Rose- 



lnd. I?, 'iite 5. — Portaferry — Donaghadee, 

mount adjoins the ruins, which still 

e ; v eii mausoleum. From its 

situation (.m the lough 

and the beauty of the ruins. Grey 

Abbey is a favourite excursion with 

th< tizens of Belfast. Anchusa 

a mpervirens and Andromeda poly- 

Lia grow lure. Pursuing the road 

• it h ward, the tourist reach' - 

10} in. Kircubbin, a small town. 

the inhabitants of which arc chiefly 

I in the manufacture of straw 

I \- i ta The little hay, on the 

ah i f which it Lb situated, iv- 

- in the name of the Bloody 

m. 

15 m. it. Ardkeen, once the chief 

the Bishops of Down, 

oastery, of which 

- -till exist. 

1 r . m. J try [Hold : Nu- 

Arms), the most southerly 

vn in the peninsula of Ards. "It 

it- origin to a castle built by 

th< 9 ge family, who came into 

part of the country with John 

shortly after the arrival 

i ml, the place being 

I ami garrisoned by that 

rful family, its situation on the 

• ma<l" h a porl of great im- 

Dce in all the subsequent wars, 

during which neither it nor the 

>urhi£ district of the southern 

A fi 11 into the hands of the 

The visitor should 

hill of Blackbank to 

x - town, from which 

will ry fine view 

: Btrangford 

Lough, I s I 'vne, as it ie 

ry is a n«at, 

carrying on a 

with Scotland and Li- 

ratains the crumbling 

• . c -*' of the Savage s, 

wi proi '■' 1 and fosten d 

i i j inre 

. J. N Esq., 

.II 

is The cham 

wn from the 



53 



opposite one of Btrangford is about 
5 m. in length and ) in breadth. 
"There is a violent tide, through 
the channel in and out of Btrangford 
Lough, and it makes a heavy swell 
when running against the wind, but 
it is not dangerous to persons ac- 
quainted with the passage." — Fras< r. 
The tourist can cross the ferry to 
Btrangford, and thence to Down- 
patrick (Bte. 4;, or else return hy 
the coast to Donaghadee through 
Cloghy and Ballyhalbert. Burial 
Island off the shore at this point is 
the most eastern land in Ireland. 
From Ballywalter, near which is 
Springvale House (A. Mulholland, 
Esq.), it is Ih m. of a rocky coast- 
road to Donaghadee.] 

Donagluidee {Hotels: Arthur'.-; 
Commercial), apart from its claims to 
admiration as a line bathing-place 
and marine residence, derives much 
importance from the fact of its being 
the nearest port to Scotland, the 
distance to Portpatrick being only 
22 m. As the rly. in the sister island 
is now completed from Carlisle to 
Portpatrick; it is not unlikely that 
ere long a fast steamer will be placed 
on the station, and that this short 
passage will be much patronised 
by .all northern Irish tourists, who 
are haunted by the dread of the 
terrible 1 hours between Holyhead 
and Kingstown. Indeed, so Dear is 
the Scottish coast, that not only the 
outlines of the hills but even the 
houses can be distinctly seen in clear 
weather. This is also the crossing 
point of the Magnetic Telegraph. 

The harbour is good, and was im- 
proved at a c ».^t of 14.3,000/. Vessels 
drawing Id ft. of water can enter at, 
any time of the tide. The piei 
built of Angl< sea marble, as is a! 
the lighthouse, which Bhows a fixed 
red light The only relic of antiquity 
in the town fa an enormous rath 

ft. hi l'!i. of which advanl 
ha i taken to ( r. -t a powder- 

i the summit The view 
from it ]'.-> beautiful, embracing the 



5-1 



Route G. — Dundalh to Sligo. 



Ireland, 



sweep of the bay and town, and a long 
extent of Scotch coast. (Pop. 2G71.) 

Distances. — Grey Abbey, m. ; 
STewtownards, 8.^ ; Groomsport, 4 ; 
Bangor, 5.j, to which the shore-road 
may be taken, although there is a 
shorter and better one across country. 

Excursions. — 

1. Bangor. 

2. Grey Abbey. 

A little to the N. of Donaghadce 
the coast trends to the W., and forms 
the entrance to Belfast Lough. 
Some distance out at sea are Cope- 
land Island (of considerable size), 
Mew and Lighthouse Islands; on 
the latter is a fixed light. 

The fishing village of Groomsport 
is the locale of the disembarkment 
of the advanced guard of William 
III.'s army under Schomberg. Ad- 
joining is Groomsport House (the 
Elizabethan seat of B. P. Maxwell, 
Esq.). 

Bangor (Hotel : Royal), as its 
name implies (" Beann chair," White 
Church), was in former days the 
seat of an abbey of regular canons, 
founded by St. Comgall in 555, and 
of a school so famous for its learning, 
that Alfred resorted to it for pro- 
fessors when he restored the uni- 
versity of Oxford. Like most of 
tliis district, it formed a portion of 
O'Neill's confiscated property, and 
was transferred by James I. to 
the family of Hamilton, afterwards 
Viscount Clandeboye. Only a very 
minute fragment is left of the 
abbey. The town is principally 
dependent on muslin sewing and em- 
broidering, and a large amount of 
work is annually sent to England in 
the shape of fine embroideries for 
ladies' attire. The modern mansion, 
the seat of the Ward family, is an 
Elizabethan building near the town, 
and in close proximity to the site of 
the old castle. 

Distances. — Newtownards, 5 m. ; 
Bolywood, 7^; Donaghadee, 
Groomsport, 2. 

>lca incrs ply daily to Belfast. 



2 m. on the road leading from 
Bangor to Holywood is Clandeboye,. 
the seat ofLordDuflferin. The house 
was originally erected in the reign 
of James I. ; but subsequent altera- 
tions have obliterated its ancient 
character. At the southern extremity 
of the demesne rises a hill, crowned 
by a tower built for the purpose of 
enshrining some beautiful verses 
written by Lady DufTerin to her son. 
The structure has received the name 
of Helen's Tower, and has been still 
further dignified by a poetical in- 
scription from the hand of Alfred 
Tennyson. A small private chapel 
in the park contains some ancient 
architectural fragments built into its 
inner walls, and an hieroglyphic car- 
touche of Tirhakah, the contemporary 
of Hezekiah, Isaiah, and Sennacherib- 
From the western side of the de- 
mesne an avenue leads to the sea- 
shore, distant about 3 m. 

At Cultra, more than halfway be- 
tween Holywood and Bangor, the 
geologist will observe some singular 
beds of dolomite, considered by Sir 
R. Griffith on lithological grounds 
to represent the Permian system of 
Ireland. 



V 



BOUTE 6. 

FROM DUNDALK TO ENNISKiLLEW 
AND SLIGO. 

The Dundalk and Enniskillen Ply,, 
was opened in 1852, and, taken per 
se, is G2 m. in length ; but as this 
company have also leased the Ennis- 
killen and Londonderry line, the two 
arc the same for all practical pur- 
poses, and are now worked under the 
name of the Irish North-Western. 
Through carriages run from Dun- 
dalk to Deny, thus saving a great 



vxh. Bouie G. — Castle Blayney— Cooteihill 



65 



time between Dublin and 
P. riy, in comparison with the route 
t i Belfast. The riy. cannot be said 
run through a pretty country in 
aeral, although some portions, 
ccially near Enniskillen, are very 
lining. Quitting the Dundali 
6 it., there is nothing of interest 
until Inniskeen Stat. 7 in. is reached. 
On 1. are ruins [of no great extent or 
tural beauties of the abbey 
[nniskeen : and here wo may re- 
rk that the Irish tourist must 
to find in every abbey 
anything more than the re- 
a simple parish oh., gene- 
rally - 3ting of a nave and choir, 
•h probably a 1" Irry. They w< 
dt in a rude age, as the nucleus 
• i stablishment which 
[uently had to provide for 
rial defence as well i - 
s. [nniskeen presents, 
i additional attraction in 
sha] stump of a round 

I and a stone cross, 

( t. — A daily car to Car- 

-. Shirley Arms), [a 

lit ii prettily situated on high 

the lower limestone 

liich i.-^ here surrounded by 

lurianrocks, principally gray 

purpL " Dating with quart- 

•nallv with conglo- 

Limestone. In 

libourhood an I lisinisk and 

I. Fea H E. P. Shirley, 

I. . i edistricl to I 3. I r- 

- \\ iM and hillv. 

• * 

rable in ight at 
I. . Imnl« ;li LUG ft. . between 
I id Kingscourt. 

( — Car 1 

iborou ! I 

• 

I > aiskeen, 7J m. : Vir- 

K art, 7; B 

. I L] 
I I ii the li' 

I ' 
rian cuttinj 
■ 



Gullion group between Dundalk and 

Wwrv. 

12 in. CuUoviUe, 2) m. rt. of which 
is the village of Crossmaglen. 

The country becomes more di- 
versified and prettier at Casth Blay~ 
ney Inn: King's Arms), named 
after Sir E, Blayney, governor of 
Monaghan in the reign of James I., 
who gave him land on condi- 
tion of his erecting a fort between 
Newry and Monaghan. It is a 
pretty English-looking town on the 
borders of the well-planted lake of 
Muckna, which is -till further em- 
bellished by tie- grounds of Cattle 
Blayney, the residence of T. II. Hope, 
Esq. 

Distances, — Armagh, 17^ m. ; 
Ready, l 

24J m. BaUybay, like Castle 
Blayney, owes its prosperity to the 
linen trade. Beyond being placed 
in a very pretty country, it does 
not contain much of interest. u The 
approach to the town opens upon a 
picturesque district. To the E. 8 

u, at the distance of 20 m., the 
blue summits of the lofty Slieve 
Gullion, with the town about a 
quarter of a mile beneath, apparently 
embosomed in hills, and situated on 
the margin of a lake 1 m. in dia- 
meter." 

[From hence a branch line 
been formed to 9 m. ( 'ootehiU, passing 
5 m. Rockcorry. 

[CootehiU (Hotel: M'Cabe's), on the 
borders of Ca van co., a pleasantwell- 
built town, on the hank-- of the rivei 
of the .-lino name, which connects it 
by a chain of navigable lal ith 

Ballybay. There ar 

aear the- town : / 
/' i . ,/. the former residence of the 
i ■; rl ofBellamont, and new p 
by Mi I • : Dartrey (Lord C 
morne , the great pla< 
trict, with a very tin.- modern man- 
sion situate d in an i 
finely wooded i Ashft 
l I ■ ments . (Pop. L994.) 
( l to Bl 



56 



Route 6. — DundaUc to Sligo. 



Ireland. 



Distances. — Ballybay, 9 m. ; Bally- 
haise,ll ; Stradone, 10. 

The road continues to Ballvhaisc, 
passing Tullyvin House (J. Brom- 
ley, Esq.), and 4£ m. Rahenny, where 
in an old fort a large gold fibula was 
found in an iron pot. 11 m. Bally- 
haise (Rte. 17).] 

34 m. Xewbliss, a neat village, 
close to which is Newbliss House 
(A. Kerr, Esq.). 

39 m. Clones (Rte. 1.7) (Inn : Dacre 
Arms), an ancient and not over 
clean little town, though it is placed 
on a hill high enough to secure all the 
advantages of drainage. It has de- 
rived its name from Cluain Inis, " the 
Island of Retreat," from having been 
formerly surrounded by water. It was 
also a celebrated ecclesiastical lo- 
cality, and the seat of a bishopric, 
St. Tigernach, the first bishop, hav- 
ing died here of the plague in 550. 
The abbey was burnt in 1395, and 
again rebuilt and finally dissolved in 
Henry YIII.'s time. The tourist 
should stop at Clones to visit the 
ruins, though they are but small. 
They are situated at the foot of the 
hill on the S. side of the town, to- 
gether with the round tower, which is 
peculiarly rough and irregular on the 
outside, but of smooth limestone 
within. The masonry is rude, and 
the top is wanting. At the summit of 
the hill is the market-place, adorned 
with a handsome eh. and the cross 
of Clones, in very fair preservation, 
though the sculpture on the shaft is 
somewhat indistinct. The arms of 
the cross are connected by circular 
portions, similar to that at Tynan near 
Armagh (Rte. 17). (Pop. 2390.) 

Conveyance. — Car to Monaghan. 

Distances. — Oavan, 15 m. ; Beltur- 
bet, 1H; Monaghan, 11. 

A rly. is here given off to Cavan 
en route for Mullingar, as also one 
to join the Ulster line at Monaghan. 

44 m. At Newtown Butler, a 
bridge crosses a small tributary to 
Lough Erne. This village was the 
^ccne of a very decisive action in 



1GS9. "About 1 m. from Newtown 
Butler the Irish faced about and 
made a stand. They were driven up 
on a hill, at the foot of which lay a 
deep bog. A narrow paved cause- 
way which ran across the bog was 
the only road by which the cavalry 
of the Enniskilleners could advance. 
Macarthy placed his cannon in such 
a way as to sweep this causeway. 
Wolseley ordered his infantry to the 
attack. They struggled through the 
bog, made their way to firm ground, 
and rushed on to the guns. The 
Irish cannoneers stood gallantly to 
their pieces till they w r ere cut down 
to a man. The Irish dragoons, who 
had run away in the morning, were 
smitten with another panic, and 
without striking a blow galloped 
from the field." — Macaulay. In this 
affray the Irish lost above 2000 men, 
while the loss of the Enniskilleners 
was only 20. 

Portions of the beautiful reaches 
of Lough Erne every now and then 
become visible, although on no 
point from the rly. is the lake 
seen to any extent. In the dis- 
tance to the S.W. the blue limestone 
ranges of Leitrim, in which the 
Shannon takes its rise, form very 
fine features in the landscape. 

[2 J m. 1. on the banks of Lough 
Erne is Crom Castle, the charming 
residence of the Earl of Erne, situated 
at the bend of a wooded promontory 
overlooking the windings of the 
upper lake. It is a castellated 
building, placed in veiy picturesque 
grounds, which also enclose the 
ruins of the old castle of Crom, in 
1GS9 "the frontier garrison of the 
Protestants of Fermanagh." It was 
besieged by Mountcashel, a circum- 
stance that induced the battle of 
Newtown Butler, in consequence of 
his being obliged to retire from 
Crom to meet Wolscley.] 

51 m. Lisnasltea Stat. (Hotel : Erne 
Arms), a neat town with well- 
built schools, ch., market-house, &c. 
The town and neighbourhood owe 



I 



B< m (e G . — En n isle Men . 



57 



i the resident landlord, the 
Erne. Near Lisna&kea is 
i ton Lo Ige Major Archdail). 

Maguin '■< Bridg< , another 

uated on the Colebrooke 

river, which il«>ws into Lough Erne 

3 in. X. is the village of 

Brookeb rough, and farther X. Cole- 

Le park and mansion 

ig to sir Victor Brooke, 

;1. To t\\'- 1. ofMaguire's Bridge 

i- Er . studded with islands, 

si of which is Belleisle, 

sidence of J. Port r, Esq. 

S -n after passing .~>7^ m. Li*hel- 

skirta the demesne of 

I and arrives at 

I in. /. ana Inifl- 

ceithli // Imperial, toler- 

White Hart , the Mat. being 
placed die Lvantageous 

from hence to see the 
ni. i i- one of the 

- ::i Ireland, a circum- 
which, together with its 
as ciations, it 
principal attractions, for it is 
rchajological ob- 
•. From almost every 
;nt it lias a peculiarly beautiful 
appearance, being entirely watergirt 
Lough Erne, or, to speak cor- 
by the river which anil 
ind lower lake ; from the 
i the housi li- 

ly, ti: ing turn. 

1 spir the eh. 

• i of 

1 well-..; houa s, 

..ukal'ly from tli< 

bly dirty cabins which dis- 

[reland's 1- rl 

: re broad and 

an, the shoi 1 and well tilled, 

1 air of i • rity and 

^ j»erv whole pla 

•' es I. E oiskillen 

id of the 

M h ; 

but :' [uent 

1. when in L689, not 

with wn 

- 

i : .:iel, t 



gallanl Enniskilleners actually pur- 
sued their invaders, who made a preci- 
pitate retreat, without stopping till 
they readied Cavan. The actions 
at Belturbel and Newtown Butler 
were still more telling and decisive 
affairs in the brief campaign. On a 
wooded hill overlooking the town 
above the stat is a lofty pillar to 
commemorate the heroic deeds of 
Sir Lowry Cole of Peninsular fame. 
The view from the hill is very beau- 
tiful, though the tree- are allowed to 
grow too densely around the column. 
At either end of the town is a fort, 
and there are also extensive barracks 
occupying the site of the castle, a 
portion of which still exists close 
to the W. bridge* From its posi- 
tion on the lake, a considerable trade 
is carried on by water between En- 
niskillen and Belleek at the western 
extremity of Lough Erne ; and if 
any communication existed between 
this latter place and Ballyshan- 
non, it would at once open the way 
to a very extensive inland trade. 
With the towns on the lower lakes, 
as Belturbet, &c, there is at present 
little or none, probably owing to 
the very serpentine course of the 
river. 1 m. from the town is the 
magnificent demesne and mansion 
of Castle Coole, the Beat of the 
Earl of Belmore. It is a large 
Gn house, built by the elder 

Wyatt of Portland stone, and is very 
prettily situated. To see the neigh- 
bourhood of Enniskillei] to advantage 
the tourist should discard terra nrma 

and take to the lake, for which pur- 
pose good boats may be had at the 
W. bridge. Lough Erne is one of the 
larg* si and mosl beautiful of Irish 
lak( a. It b little mountain 

oery or c y shores, but is, save 
iit one locality, for the most pari sylvan 
in character, and indeed, forcombir 

tionfl Of WOod and water ifl probably 

unequalled. The river Erne, which 

Ls it, ; Lough Gowna,about 

. X. of i ■ ind runs 

X. until ; Is into Lough 






58 



Route 6. — Dun dalle to Sligo. 



Irelani;. 



Oughter, from whence it emerges 
with broader proportions, passing 
i Sutler's Bridge and Belturbet. At or 
near Crumil is generally called Longh 
Erne, though in fact it is nothing 
more than a very broad river, fringed 
with innumerable bays, and studded 
with islands, many of them of con- 
siderable size. The upper lake is 
at its broadest opposite Lisnaskea, 
and from this point soon narrows 
to assume the river character again. 
There are several pretty residences 
in this portion of its course, such as 
Crum, Belleisle, Belonia, and Lis- 
goole Abbey (W. C. Jones, Esq.)— an 
abbey only in name, as there are no 
traces of ch. architecture about it; 
nevertheless the row from Ennisldllen 
hither will amply repay the lover of 
river scenery. The reach from the 
town to the lower lake is about 1 m. 
in length, and passes on 1. Portora, 
a very beautifully situated school, 
built in 1777 to accommodate the 
scholars of the Eoval School, founded 
in 162G by Charles I. The channel 
of the river at this point has been 
considerably deepened; and at the 
extrance into the lake stand on 1. 
the ruins of a small fortress consist- 
ing of some circular towers. About 

2 m. from Ennisldllen, on the rt. 
of the lake, lies tho island of 
Devenisli (anc. Daim-inish), with 
its melancholy-looking ruins, viz. an 
abbey, portions of a 2nd ch., and a 
round tower, tho most perfect in the 
whole country. The lower ruins close 
to the tower are very scanty, possess- 
ing only one or two round-headed 
windows deeply splayed inwardly. 
The round tower is 70 ft. high, 
and remarkable for the extraordinary 
fineness and regularity of the ma- 
sonry up to the very apex. Look- 
ing N.E. are 3 windows, the lower 
one round, the middle triangular, 
and the uppermost square-headed. 
As usual there is no entrance, but 

3 rude steps have been made in the 

roes to the lower window, which 
is about 12 ft. from the ground. 



being 



remarkably 
the unusual 



In addition to 
well preserved, it has 
decoration of a cornice or band im- 
mediately under the conical apex, 
of very rich design, and with a 
well-sculptured head in the centre 
of each side. A little higher up the 
hill are the ruins of the abbey, con- 
sisting of the tower and the N. wall 
of the choir, in which is a good 
pointed doorway deeply moulded and 
crocketed. The intersecting arches 
are similar to those of Sligo, though 
scarcely so lofty. A spiral staircase 
leads to a chamber in the tower, and 
in the floor are holes for the bellropes. 
Beyond Devenisli, although this is 
generally the limit for a rowing ex- 
cursion, the lake gradually expands as 
far as Church Hill, at which point it 
assumes the character of an inland sea, 
being 5 m. broad ; " stretching from 
Ennisldllen to Eosscor House, a 
distance of 20 m., its greatest breadth 
5 m., and its least 2 in. It contains 
nearly 28,000 statute acres, and em- 
braces 109 islets, many of them 
small and of trifling importance, 
others, and not a few, varying from 
10 to 150 acres, while Boa Island, 
near the northern extremity of the 
lake, contains 1300 statute acres." — 
Fraser. 

Conveyances from Ennisldllen. — 
Daily to Ballyshannon and Bundo- 
ran ; daily to Donegal ; daily to Mona- 
ghan ; daily to Fettigoe ; daily to 
Sligo by Manor Hamilton ; daily tc* 
Omagh. 

Distances. — Sligo, 39 m. ; Donegal,, 
34 ; Belcoo, 114 ; Manor Hamilton, 25; 
Clones, 23 ; Ballyshannon, 27 ; Ely 
Lodge, 4J; Devenisli Island, 2 ; Petti- 
goe, 19 ; Kesh, 14 ; Florence Court,. 
7 ; Swanlinbar, 12 ; Crum Castle, 22, 
by water; Deny, 60 ; Dundalk, 62. 

Excursions. — 

1. Devenisli Island. 

2. Ballyshannon and Belleek. 

3. Florence Court and Swanlinbar.. 

4. Belcoo and Marble Arch. 

5. Crum Castle. 

6. Lisgoole by water. 



1 



Route G. — The Erne — Ely Lodge. 



59 



[ In fcourisl who wishes to proceed 
to Bub Loran will take the 
Ballyshannon road, which is tra- 
\ - L by 2 or 3 c rs daily, and is 
i long destined to p esess the 
a<l 3 of a rly. It keeps cl< i 

the western shore of Lough Erne 
nearly the whole distance to Bel- 
fording views that for soft 
v are almost equal to the foot 
of Windermere. 

4 J m. rt. is the entrance to 
/ . the lovely Beat of the Mar- 
ch: ss of Ely, upon an island 
• •t> I by a. bridge with the main- 
land. The grounds are exquisi 
and the house contaii ae good 

The _T rand on the L of 

in >re 

ed aspect, and near 

tin' vill ige ol I iiuivli Hill ru 

rpments of blue moun- 

- :. LO00 t"t. above 

the sea. The ruins 

. I stle are close to the lake; 

it rtified mansion, built by 

II -.a branch of the Scotch 

oiily of Polwarth, who settled in 

Fen i in the reign of Elizabeth. 

It - of a frightful mas- 

in the llion of 1641, when 

L Bume, her family, and all the 

the house, amounting to 

-lain by R • of 

M . who had indue* d 

buitci der, under promt 

Enniskillen. A 

er exi 

■K. The 1 
!• si : the depth at many 
i. and its ] 1« \<l 

■ 

thai I 

unplish in the 5 m. 

B Hi vk and Ballyshannon. 

ire of the lake is 

r low and w ' in comparu 

I hurch Hill. A 

Ltfl hank to 

i : gal ; it is fringed 

ith tiii of v, h 

Ball] 

I ; ■ Ma 



Archdall), Rockfield Oapt. [rvin< 
Castle ArchdaU Oapt. ArchdaU, 
M.P;). On the northern bank a 
little beyond Church Hill are Castle 

Caldwell (J. 0. Bloomfield, Esq.), 
and the Elizabethan mansion i 
Maghramena (J. Johnstone, Esq.). 
The Lake soon narrows again, and 
reassumes its river character at Bel- 
leek, a small village prettily situated 
on the rt., containing a disused fort, 
and a large china manufactory, which 
gives employment to a good many 
hand-. A little distance from the 
village is Cliff, the residence of T. 
( nolly, Esq., M.P., the owner of 
the soil around Ballyshannon, and 
probably one of the largest land- 
holders in Ireland.] 

[From Belleek a road runs S. \% m. 
to the village of Garrison, situated 
in a half-reclaimed wild district on 
the eastern shore of Lough Melvin. 
It is occasionally frequented by 
anglers, who will find a public-house 
in which to put up.] 

The course of the Erne from 
Belleek is marked by an extraor- 
dinary series of rapids, which the 
tourist may observe at different 
points, though he cannot skirt 
the hanks of the river all the way 
down to Ballyshannon. " From Bel- 
leek the angler will be enabled to 
fish Loch Erne, which contains some 
of the finest trout in the world, 
running from 2 i i 20 lbs. weight. 
These trout, up to 6 and 7 lbs. weight, 
take the fly well. The lough abounds 
also in pike, perch, and bre im, ol 
which cartloads may be taken in 
some spots. Flies can be had in 
Ballyshannon." — Angler's Eegist .. 

Passing 25 m. rt. Camlan, the i 
tellated mansion of T. Tredennick, 
l. ,.. the tourisl I 27 m. 

Llyshannon {Hotels ■ ( hm Ca : 
Erne Rte. 8 .] 

[It i- a very beautiful < ion 

to St inlinbar 12 m., where i. 
magniflcenl Limeston< bc< n< ry is 

1 m. I. 
an S 1 ! C . 1 1 rd, Esq.), 



GO 



Route 6. — Dundalk to Sligo. 



Ireland. 



and Fairwood Park, followed by ' 
the exquisitely-situated grounds 
of Florence Court, the residence 
of the Earl of Enniskillen. The 
house, which is worthy of the 
surrounding scenery, was built by 
Lord Mount Florence in 1771, and 
is in form "a centre connected by 
wings of handsome arcades adorned 
with an entablature and low ba- 
lustrade, the whole facade being 
300 ft. in length." In the interior 
are some good paintings by Rem- 
brandt, Poussin, Rubens (J~ephtha"s 
Vow) Sir P. Lely, &c. ; and a geo- 
logical museum which has an Eu- 
ropean reputation. As regards the 
carboniferous formation, and par- 
ticularly the fishes of the coal period, 
the name of Lord Enniskillen stands 
deservedly high in scientific circles. 
There is also a splendid skeleton of 
the Megaceros Hibernicus, or the 
Irish elk. The park extends for a 
long distance on the slopes of the 
hills, and affords views remarkable 
for their extent and variety, as well 
as some very fine timber, in which 
an avenue of the silver fir should 
be particularly noticed, as well 
as the parent plant of the Irish or 
Florence Court yew. At the rear 
of the house and grounds is a 
long continuous escarpment of 
mountain limestone hills, which ex- 
tend from Swanlinbar, past Manor 
Hamilton, to near Lough Gill, and 
are remarkable for the strange freaks 
of nature which abound in them, as 
indeed is the ease more or less in .all 
carboniferous regions. The principal 
of these heights are — Benaghlan, just 
above Florence Court ; Cratty, 
1212 ft. over Swanlinbar ; Cuilcagh, 
21S8; Benbrack, 1G48; andLachagh, 
1448. " The Calp limestone of this 
district extends from Lough Erne to 
Bundoran ; and in Belmore near 
Enniskillen, and Ben Aghlan near 
Florence Court, it is surmounted by 
GOO ft. of upper carboniferous lime- 
stone. The calp in this district is 
highly fossil iferous, and full of encri- 



nital heads and stems, witli large and 
perfect productions. In the lime- 
stone of Ben Aghlan is the rare Pen- 
tremitis ovalis ; and the Hymeno- 
phyllum Tunbridgense fern grows 
upon the summit of the hill." — 
Geologist. 

12 m. Swanlinbar, a neat town, 
which formerly had a considerable 
reputation as a Spa, placed in a 
valley between the Slieve Russell 
chain on the E., the principal height 
of which is Legavreagra, 1279 ft., 
and the Slieveanieran range on the 
W. The little river Claddagh flows 
through the town. It rises in a fine 
gorge between Cuilcagh and Cratty, 
and has a subterranean course of 
3 m., through caverns abounding 
in stalactites. The tourist should by 
all means ascend Cuilcagh, and thence 
make his way westward to a spot 
called Legmonshena, or the Source 
of the Shannon, 7 m. from Swan- 
linbar and 3 from the Black Lion 
at Belcoo. " The source or spring is 
of a circular form, about 50 ft. in 
diameter, called the Shannon Pot. 
It boils up in the centre, and a con- 
tinued stream flows from it about 
8 ft. wide and 2 ft. deep in the driest 
weather, running about 4 m. an hour. 
There are numerous caverns and 
cliffs on the top and sides of Cuilcagh 
which receive the rain-water; and 
from the circumstance of no stream 
descending this side of the mountain, 
it is probable that the drainage, com- 
bined with subterranean springs, here 
find an outlet. After winding its way 
through the valley, it falls into Lough 
Allen, about 9 m. S., having in this 
short course swelled to a considerable 
river from 50 to 60 yds. wide, vary- 
ing in depth from 5 to 10 ft." — 
W, 8. The summit of the Cuilcagh 
is associated with the early history 
of the district, " it having been the 
spot where the Maguires invested 
their chiefs with the supreme com- 
mand over Fermanagh." — Lewis. 

On the northern escarpment, look- 
ing over Lough Macnean, is another 



LAND. 



Route 7. — EnniskUlen to Dcrry, 



01 



i limestone curiosity, known 
- : : Marbl Arch, which is Binipry 
rranean cavern, with the roof 
" in J 
From Enniskillen a coach starts 
Sligo daily, passing through a 
ihly- wooded and luxuriant country. 
he traveller will also notice the 
formal manner in which part of the 
id is planted with elms and pop- 
si it the appearance of an 
approach to a Flemish town. Cross- 
ing the Sillees river, is Ldsbofin 
House T. Irwin, Esq.), heauti- 
tuated under the towering 
lii ie hill pf Belmore, 1312 ft., 

ith which the road is carried 
for - reral miles. On the opposite 

mgly marked lime- 

Flor< ace Court, 

while the valley between is filled up 

with the lower reach of Lough Mac- 

i :.- r m ei exqui- 

<. Ai 7:U m. the river, 

wl ta the 2 lakes, ia crossi d 

rticularly neat-looking 

hamlet, from which the tourist may 

-it to the Marble Arch, which 

within 3 m. distance. The upper 

I. ugh Macnean, about 5 m. in 

• i. and embracing a consider- 

- in view, and 

tly occupies the attention, 

although it certainly is nol as ro- 

t'he low. t reach, 
shore fa well planted 
r belonging to t : 
1 • property of I. A. T 

. Ei 
A ■ Aei of Red I.' \ era! 

roads br uthward into I 

1 hilly districts of Leitrim. 
►r pedestrian will find 
pl< apy him in this neigh- 

; . I.' gmonshena, the bouj 

bout 3m distant 

follow the course of the Glen- 

•untai] I • falls 

I M . ' ;n- 

unint* rest!] 
it | >ugh a br< ; 

. bounded on 1. by the 
1448 ft, ; . rt. 



by Mullaghatire 1275. Leaving □ 
1. Lakefield (— Rutherford, Esq.) 
and Hollymount (S. Armstr j. 
Esq.), the tourist, reaches 
i 87 in. Manor Hamilton {Tun: Ro- 
binson's), a small town, situated in a 
high valley, surrounded by rangesof 
limestone hills on every side. ( )n the 
N. is the continuation of that noble 
range which is terminated seaward 
by Benbulben (Rte. 8), and extends 
all the way to Lough Macnean, or 
indeed to EnnisMllen. The charm! 
valley of the Bonet, runs up to Gle- 
nade under the heights of Cr ck- 
avallin 1408 ft., Saddle Hill 1245, 
and Doeyl511. (Rte. 8.) The town 

itself need not detain the touri-t 
long, as he can soon inspect the 
ivy-covered block of buildings which 
formed the baronial mansion of Sir 

Frederick Hamilton. It is a good 
example of the 17th cent., although 
the details are very plain. The 
road now crosses the Bonet, leaving 
to the rt the village of Lurganboy, 
which, as far as situation goes, has the 
superiority over Manor Hamilton. 
Two roads here branch ofYon rt. : 1. to 
Glenade 5 m. ; 2. to Glencar, which, if 
time is no object, should he taken hy 
the tourist, so as to visit the lake 
and waterfall. The road t<> SI 
turns to the 1. underneath Benb \ 
L365 ft., and continues through the 
same romantic formation until the 
high grounds above Lough («ill are 
reached. High as they arc however, 
not ;i single glimpse of this beautiful 
lough is obtained from the coach- 
road. 

1"! in. Sliiro {Hotels: Imperial; 
Victoria) (Rte. 8 , 



ROUTE 7. 

>M ENNISKILLEN to DERRY, 
OMAGH. 

Th»- whole of this route is j 
formi 1 l v rail, a continuati< 
Dundalk and Enniskillen lin 



G: 



Boute 7. — EnnisJcillcn to Berry. 



Ireland. 



which has Leon merged into the 
same undertaking, although origin- 
ally made under separate compa- 
ny -. The greater portion runs 
through an uninteresting country, 
con-isting of high lands, with a 
good deal of bleak hill and moor. 
The latter half is the most pic- 
turesque, particularly when we 
reach the valley of the Fovle and 
its tributaries. Lough Erne, which 
is skirted by the line, is barely 
visible, high banks intervening. 

6 m. Ballinamallard, on the river 
of the same name. 

SJ m. Lowtherstown Road. The 
station is 3 J m. distant from the 
town, which lies to the 1. 

10 m. Trillicfr, a thriving village 
seated at the foot of the range of 
the Brocker Mountains, which, com- 
mencing at Lisbellaw, near Ennis- 
killen, run N.E. at an average 
height of 1000 ft., and form a 
marked watershed for rivers running 
X. to the Foyle and S. to Lough Erne. 

17 m. 1. Dromore, which suffered 
much at the hands of the insurgents 
in 1641. St. Patrick is said to have 
founded here a monastery for the 
first female who received the veil at 
his hands. 

20 m., connected by a short branch 
line, is Fintona, placed on the Fintona 
"Water, and having a " manufacture 
of linen and spades." The town 
dates from the reign of James I. 
Close by are Ecclesville (C. Eccles, 
Esq.) and Derrybard (S. Vesey, Esq.). 

[9 m. to the 8., on the opposite^ 
side of the Brocker range, is Five- 

';<■ Toini, also founded temp. James 
I. by Sir William Stewart, who built 
the castle of Aghentine, of which 
slight remains still exist. 

9 m. E. of Fintona is Clojher, 
the Regia of Ptolemy, and the 

it of the most ancient bishopric 
in Ireland, originally founded by 
St. Patrick. It derived its name, 
"Clogh-or," from a "stone of gold" 
said to have emitted oracular sayings. 
It was also the royal residence of 



the ancient princes of Ergallia, traces 
of which in the shape of earthworks 
are still extant within the grounds 
of the episcopal palace, a hand- 
some mansion, within a park of 500 
acres. The first Protestant bishop,. 
Miles Magragh by name, did not 
take office until the reign of Eliza- 
beth ; and amongst succeeding pre- 
lates was Bishop Tennison, a great 
benefactor to the ch., who, together 
with Bishop Sterne, nearly rebuilt 
the cathedral in the last cent. It 
is a plain cruciform building with 
a tower rising from the W. front. 
The visitor after having inspected 
the ch. should go and see a pretty 
cascade at Lumford Glen, a little 
way from the town. 

Conveyances. — Car to Five-mile 
Town and Glasslough (Pte. 17), 
through Aughnacloy, a small town 
prettily placed on the Blackwater. 

Distances. — Five-mile Town, 7 m.; 
Aughnacloy, 9. \\ Glasslough, 18; 
Fintona, 9.j 

From Fintona the rail still ascends 
through bleak and cold hills to 

26 m. Omagli {Hotels: Abercorn 
Arms; White Hart), the county- 
town of Tyrone, a flourishing place 
of some 3600 Inhab., situated at 
the junction of the Dnimragh river 
with the Camowen, their united 
waters falling into the Foyle. The 
castle of Omy played an important 
part in the wars of 1498, when it 
was rased to the ground ; and again 
in 1641, when Sir Phelim O'Neil 
took possession of it. The town 
contains little to detain the tour- 
ist, save the usual county struc- 
tures — a courthouse with a good 
Doric front, a gaol, a barrack, and 
a church with a lofty spire, which 
looks very well from the rly. In the 
neighbourhood are Lisanelly (E. 
White, Esq.) and Crcevenagh (Hon. 
A. Stewart). 

Conveyances. — Pail to Enniskillen, 
Derry, and Dungannon. Car to Mo- 
naghan Poad, through Ballygawley. 

[An important cross coinniunica- 



Irel J?"»iV 7. — Donaghmore—Dungann 



03 



Hon 3 been lately made by the 

Ulster Rly. Company, by the exten- 

their line to I taiagh from 

Iowa and Dnngannon. It 

- up the conise of the Cam- 

7} in. /> raght a decayed vil- 

I _ atthei f Shantauny, 1035 ft, 

i on its southern face descends 

In a bold sweep, overlooking the little 

ni'h >/. Here are some 

n b built by Sir Gerard 

L :. • r in the 17th cent. 

l ... >m the town is Ballygawley 

II at v( Sir John Stewart. 
I sing the Cloghfin river, a 

O, we arrive at 
■ 
13 in. Carrickmore, or Ton. 
1^ ) called from the elevation 

which it is hnilt. Adjoining it 
an oins of the old cm, a small 

i D building. 

e highest portion of the line is 

■//, the hills 

of which rise to about 

r. The demesne of Pomeroy 

H ; ; \ Esq. was formerly 

rated for its timber, some of the 

oak- having measured 20 ft. in cir- 

CUl: 

_ m. Donaghmore. Of the im- 

monastic buildings that 

on re, all that i mains 

is lutiful inscribed - about 

/a, which, having b <n 

nr I thr iwn down in 

quently d. 

r of Deny 
rity was vicar of this parish. 
■ olfield, rt 2 m., th( 

i of the Charle- 

»ck. i 

■ 

iulfl Id, aft r- 
I 

; r in his 

iresl he 1. 

( 

I 



'27 m. Dungamum {Hotels: Ran- 
furly Arms; Imperial . celebral 
in early days for having been the 
chief residence of the O'Neils, 

who, being in constant rebellion 
against the English government, 
involved the town in a never-ending 
series of assault and siege which 
lasted until the close of "the 17th 
cent. The independence of the Irish 
parliament was declared here in 1782 
by the delegates from the corps of 
the Ulster Volunteers. An abbey v. 
founded by the O'Nejls, and c 
were built at different times by 
themand their success »rs the Chichi 
ters, but all trace's of them have dis- 
appeared, and Dungannou now pre- 

ats the features of a busy manufac- 
turing town, for which its position — 
ahout 3 m. from Lough Neagh, and 
in the centre of the Tyrone coal- 
basin— well qualities it. The princi- 
pal buildings are the ch., which has 
an octagonal spire, and a grammar- 
school and college founded by 
Charles I., and the object of special 
care from Primate Robinson, who 
erected the present buildings on 
lands given by him. On Knock- 
many Hill, which lies to the S.W.j 
is a circle, with singular tracings on 
some of the stones. 1 \ >p. 4000! 

The coal-field of Tyrone is interest- 
ing to the geologist from the various 
and >pe ( dy era m of r ar- 

ringin so limited a space, and itscom- 
mercial importance in the industrial 

momyof ErelancL The coal-seai 

- f on the limestone of I tungannon, 
and many of the hills and high 

undsan rwithtri 

or new red Bandstone beds for a con- 
siderable distaic- The 
divided into two portions :— l. I . 

.1 [aland districl \. 

Dungannon, which is ah >u1 6 m. in 
2 in breadth, and • ins 
. Within a depth i 
fat' 6 1 I workal 

1 are foui 
tin i 22 • fc. 

able i » mai i-einpc 



u 



Route 7. — Enni skill en to Berry. 



Ireland. 



found close together at so short a 
depth (See Introd.) 2. The Anna- 
hone district is only 1 m. long, cm- 
1 tracing 320 acres, and affording S or 
9 workable seams. "Notwithstand- 
ing the smallncss of the basin, its 
strata are so much contorted and 
disturbed as to cause great irregu- 
larity in the workings by change of 
level and the occasional disappear- 
ance of the bed. But, with all these 
drawbacks, this basin merits par- 
ticular attention. The coal is ex- 
cellent, burning rapidly with flame, 
and evolving great heat ; it is not 
difficult to raise, and its quantity is 
such as to be capable of diffusing 
the blessings of industrial prosperity 
over an extensive area." — Kane. 
The principal collieries are at Anna- 
hone, Coal Island, and Drumglass. 

In the neighbourhood of Dungan- 
non are Springfield (J. Irwin, Esq.) 
and Northland House, the seat of 
Lord Ranfurley. 

Conveyances. — Rail to Omagh and 
Portadown ; car to Cookstown. 

Distances. — Moy, 5 J m. ; Black- 
watertown, 8 ; Coal Island, 4J ; 
Stewartstown, 7 ; Cookstown, 11 ; 
Armagh, 13. 

Passing 31 m. Trew Stat., the line 
crosses the Blackwater, a consider- 
able stream, which receives at Moy 
the waters of the Ulster canal con- 
necting Lough Erne near Belturbet 
with Lough Neagh. 

[3 in. on rt. is Moy, a small 
town on the Blackwater, built by 
Lord Charlemont on the pattern 
of Marengo in Italy ; on the opposite 
bank of the river is Charlemont — 
"both of them places of importance 
in the days of Elizabeth. The 
latter was disgraced in 1011 by the 
treacherous murder of Lord Caul- 
field, the governor of Charlemont, 
by Sir Phelim O'Neil, who had been 
hospitably invited to supper. The 
castle, now a depot of the Ord- 
nance department, " is still of great 
strength, fortified with bastions, a 
dry ditch, a scarp, and counterscarp ; 



and there are 2 ravelins, one in 
front, the other in rear of the works, 
surrounded by a glacis which runs 
along the side of the Blackwater." 
In the neighbourhood are Rox- 
borough, the seat of Lord Charle- 
mont, and Church Hill (Sir W. 
Yerner, Bart.). 

2 \ m. to the S., between the river 
and the Ulster Canal, is Blackicater- 
town, a large village doing a good 
deal of business in the way of coals 
and timber. Like Charlemont, it 
played an important part in the 
Tyrone rebellion temp. Queen Eliza- 
beth. 5 m. Armagh (Rte. 17.) A 
little higher up the river is the 
Castle of Benburb, on a lofty escarp- 
ment above the water, which sur- 
rounds it on two sides. Here O'Neill 
defeated the English army after a 
desperate battle in 1646. It does 
not present any interesting archi- 
tectural features.] 

35 m. Anaglimore, from whence the 
line runs in view of the S. end of 
Lough Neagh to 41 m. Portadown 
(Rte. 3).] 

28 m. at Fairy Water Bridge the 
main line crosses the Fairy Water 
close to its junction with the Stride, 
and keeps parallel with the latter 
river, occasionally crossing it, to 

35 m. Neivtoivn Stewart (Hotel: 
Abercorn Arms). Here the Shrule 
river joins the Owenkillew, which 
rises in the lofty chain of the Munter- 
lony Mountains, and flows from E. to 
W. These hills, with the still higher 
ranges of the Sperrin Mountains, run 
E. as far as Maghera, and then turn 
round to the N. into the neighbourhood 
of Coieraine. Their southern faces 
are extremely steep, and the general 
altitude is not less than 2000 ft. — 
the highest point, Sawel, being 2246. 
The town of Newtown Stewart is 
finely situated on the side of a hill 
known by the pretty name of Bessy 
Bell (1386 ft.), the/ counterpart of 
which (though not so lofty) is the 
eminence of Mary Gray, on the rt. of 
the rly. The town is pleasant and 



Ireland. Route 7. — Strabane — Londonderry, 



]»i ' is rendered attractive by 

roximity of Baron's Court, 

the princely estate of the Marquis of 

Al re >rn, in which hill, wood, and 

fiford many beautiful Land- 

; - s. Jamc - 1 1, spent a night in 

\ t.iwn Stewart, and in return for 

tl: spitality received ordered the 

to be dismantled and the town 

be burnt— a blow which it was 

verinff. Like most north- 

i Irish towns, linen-weaving af- 

plenty of employment There 

- me forts which 

mmanded the bridges on the 

M ;. • . and Strule at Moyle. 

I the village of Gortin, 

I I' Itrim Castle Major Hamil- 
- . tntically placed in t 

< twenkillew, between 
»re 1262 ft. and 
L372 . 
. !. on ti.. ] h pg is Castle Derg, 
h the traveller can 
- anorlar and 
Rt . - . 

s. — Kail to Ennifikillen 
I 

- S thane, 11 m. ; 
LO. 
1 >erg flows into the 
a it. the Sperrin Moun- 

■ 
he la The latter nh 

toria Brid ; Stat 
Mills; ter 

iv< - in Big] I 

-clean 

'. like N - 

". at the JU i Of 

9 — th( M< urne and I inn. 

1 by 
hrid* : from 

Mourne t ' the 

! ] 

>e ri\ marked 1 con- 

' alluvial land, 

ther illy 

;' tliii whicn 

tble. 



taia the visitor, "who will speedily 
find out from his olfactory sens 
that the inhabitants are principally 
dependent on flax. Thisis, however, 
only offensive in the autumn, when 
the plant is being steeped and dri< ■! 
in all the fields of the neighbourhood, 
Strabane once possessed a castle 
built by the Marquis of Abercorn in 
the time of James I., but it has dj 
appeared, and has given place to a 
warehouse. The town has s<>mo 
claims to he called a port, as it is 
connected by a short canal with the 
navigable portion of the Foyle Pi p. 
4911 . 

( mveyances. — Kail to Deny and 
Enniskillen ; rail to Stranorlar ; cai 
to Sligo daily ; ear to Lett* rkenny ; 
ear to Ballybofey, through Castle- 
finn. 

Distances.— Deny. 15 m. ; Lifford, 
1 ; Newtown Stewart, 11; Castle Finn, 
0; Urney, ?>; Raphoe, 7; Letter- 
kenny, 16}; Rathmelton, 23; Manor 
Cunningham, 12; Stranorlar, 1:5. 

The line now pursues the ev< :i 

tenor of its way alone; the alluvial 

valley of the Foyle, which soon 

■ lis out into a stately stream. 

4S m. Torthall (J. Clarke, Esq.). 

Before arriving at 53 m. St. Johns- 
town Stat., we ] ■ - a 1. a square 
tower, all that is left of tin ( -tic 
of Montgevlin, in which James II. 
held his court till the termination 
"fill b of Deny. 

r>, in. Carrigans. The Foyle h< 
s the character of ;) riv< r, and 
becomes an estuary, increasing in 
width until we arrive at 

61 m. tlic time-honoured city of 
Derry or Londonderry (Rte. 12) 
Hot* Is : Imperial, good ; F03 i . 

I;- situation is picturesque in the 
exfr< mo, the great bulk of the town 
being on a hill, 119 ft high, ovei look- 
ing the 1. bank of the I 3 Le, which 
h< re 1068 i't wide, l 

by b long rly. hrid: . It ds 

the ! 1 little below 1. 

idth of 1{ Ti 

logy of the hills i 



Q6 



Route 7. — EnnislriUen to Dewy. 



Ireland. 



the river consists " of primary schis- 
tose rocks, spreading over the whole 
of the parish of Temple in ore (in 
which the city is situated), with the 
exception of a considerable detritic 
paten at Culmore, to the N.E., which 
probably conceals a part of the 
new red sandstone. Associated with 
these are occasional beds of granu- 
lar dimestone and greenstone." — 
Geot Survey. Previous to the 
reign of Elizabeth the history of 
Deny (in Irish borfte , the place of 
oaks) presents nothing remarkable, 
and is chiefly occupied with affairs ec- 
clesiastical, it having been one of the 
monasteries of St. Columb, the abbot 
of which, Flahertach O'Brolchain, 
was made first bishop of Deny in 
1158. The last Roman Catholic 
bishop died in 1G01, up to which 
time the city " may be regarded as 
1 1 ing in the hands of the native 
Irish, and governed by their chiefs, 
with at best but an occasional ac- 
knowledgment of British power." 
But all previous historical events are 
thrown into the shade by the great 
siege of Londonderry in 1G89, when 
King James's Irish army, under Rosen 
and Edward Hamilton, laid close siege 
to the city for 105 days, and tried 
their best, by the horrors of assault, 
famine, and pestilence, to reduce the 
courage of the brave Protestant de- 
fenders. The governor on this occa- 
si >n was the treacherous Lundy, 
who made many attempts to give up 
the city into the enemy's hands, and 
only succeeded in evading the rage 
of the garrison by escaping in the 
■ so of a porter. The command 
was then taken by the Rev. George 
Walker, rector of Donaghmore, 
whose apostolic fervour and simple 
bravery will be the theme of admi- 
ration as long as religious liberty 
endures. The blockade was at 
length put an end to on the 2Gth of 
July, when the Mountjoy, a mer- 
chantman of Kirke's fleet, filled with 
stores, gallantly broke through the 
1 airier placed across the Foyle, and 



relieved the starving garrison. " Five 
generations have passed away, and 
still the wall of Londonderry is to 
the Protestants of Ulster what the 
trophy of Marathon was to the Athe- 
nians. A lofty pillar, rising from a 
bastion which bore during manv 
weeks the heaviest fire of the enemy, 
is seen far up and down the Foyle. 
On the summit is the statue of 
Walker, such as when, in the last 
and most tender emergency, his 
eloquence roused the fainting courage 
of his brethren. In one hand he 
grasps a Bible ; the other, pointing- 
down the river, seems to direct the 
eyes of his famished audience to the 
English topmasts in the distant bay. 
Such a monument was well de- 
served ; yet it was scarcely needed ; 
for, in truth, the whole city is to 
this day a monument of the great 
deliverance. The wall is carefully 
preserved, nor would any plea of 
health or convenience be held by the 
inhabitants sufficient to justify the 
demolition of that sacred enclosure 
which, in the evil time, gave shelter 
to their race and their religion. The 
summit of the ramparts forms a 
pleasant walk. The bastions have 
been turned into little gardens- 
Here and there among the shrubs 
and flowers may be seen the old 
culverins which scattered bricks 
cased with lead among the Irish 
ranks. One antique gun, the gift of 
the Fishmongers of London, was 
distinguished during: the 105 me- 
morable days by the loudness of its 
report, and still bears the name of 
1 Roaring Meg.' The cathedral is 
filled with relics and trophies. In 
the vestibule is a huge shell, one 
of many hundreds of shells which 
were thrown into the city. Over 
the altar are still seen the French 
flagstaves taken by the garrison in a 
desperate sally ; the white ensigns 
of the house of Bourbon have long- 
been dust, but their place has been 
supplied by new banners, the work 
of the fairest hands of Ulster. The- 



T: sd. Routt 7. — Londonderry — Bridge. 



C 



< 



of t Ik- day on which t" 

I and the anni- 

tlic day on which the 

tised, liavo been down to 

wn time celebrated by salutes, 

s, banquets, and sermons. 

- been executed in effigy, 

I the I siid by tradition to 

of Monmouth has on great 

n carried in triumph." 

— M '& Hist, of England. 

principal objects of intei 

ry arc the walls and 

itbe lral. T ieinal English 

ted by Sir Henry Docwra, 

Sir ( ir i PDoherty 

id the pr< sent town n 

- 

L mdone J 1 

inline li; 

rophe. The | 

! >nilt about 

3357/., '! 1 were known 

touble B 9- 

which the were 

tened purpose of 

i - : the Royal 

advancing of the 

i it. in defiance of the 

nan's ! in- 

B . ' i. ion, — 

t of danger, it's 

s od 

Wat r B istion : and Ferry 

-till in 
. • 
div diteh, have 
I in i i - of tin. . 

< Tl 

lie 
ill.: Bhipqn 
1 

: and Castle Gate, 
lral stan 

the who 
d is iful F 

. [t 3 

lral and 
either 

I arda - wit 

i ' rp. 
eh. 



in 1633 is commemorated in a tab] 

which runs as follows : — 

AXO DO CAB REGIS 

1G33. 

If . stem* } , 1 . speake . 

Then . London's . pray so . SttOVld . BOVnde . 
Who . bviltc . this . chvreli . 
And . cittie . from . the . grovnde . 

Inserted into the top of this tablet is 
a smaller one with the inscription : — 

" h\ templo vents Dene 
Vereque Clemens." 

Amongst other curiosities are a 
b tmb-ahell tired into the town during 
the siege, as well as the poles of t. 
flags captured from the enemy. 
There arc also a couple of 17th 

it. tablets and monuments to the 
memory of Bishop Knox, and i 
Capt Boyd of the Ajax, who perished 
in the storm at Kingstown in 1860, 
while attempting to rescue others. 

TL tor should on no account 

forget to mount the top of the tower, 
which commands a noble panorama, 
embracing the city with the wal) 
Walker's Monument, the Bisho; 
Palace and Garden, the Gaol, ti. 
Lunatic Asylum, the Doeks, the 
noble expanse of the Poyle, hacked 
up by the distant outlines of the 
hills of Inishowen, while, looking up 
the rivt r, are the woods and E 
of Prehen, the scat of the family of 
Knox. The other buildii jrs worth 
notice are the ( rporati If. ill, in 
the middle of the Diamond or prin- 
cipal squar< I -art I 

of which is mo Lolled 

after the temple of Ett chtl at 

A • the Gaol, which is most 

. and d on I ir- 

cular plan, with a panoptic 
and the new Bi : . which sen 

b for the Northern Countii 
Rly. and a public ro ft 1.. 

supersede I the old timber bi 
which 

•v. " I L068 

laid 

k-pil< s, the ] 
PL asunder, and were bound 

Uy 



G3 



Route 7. — Ennisldllen to Berry. 



Ireland. 



divided and transversely bolted. 
As both the water and the gas 
were brought across the bridge, 
they had to be separated when- 
ever it was open for the , passage of 
barges." The whole of this singu- 
lar structure was put up by Lemuel 
Cox, a Boston American, at an ex- 
pense of 10,000/. (Pop. 20,875.) 

From the port of Londonderry 
a large colonial and coasting trade 
is carried on. It is, moreover, 
a calling-station for the North Ame- 
rican steamers from Liverpool, all 
the important telegrams being for- 
warded from Deny direct to Lon- 
don. The tonnage of the port in- 
creased in the four years from 1848 
to 1852 from 147,212 to 215,409; 
and if the long-entertained project 
is ever brought to bear of uniting 
Lough Foyle with Lough S willy 
by a ship canal it will tend very 
much to place Derry in the fore- 
most rank of Irish ports. 

No antiquary should leave Derry 
without paying a visit to the Grianan 
of Aileach, an early remain situated 
on the summit of a hill 800 ft. high, 
about 5 m. from Derry, in the 
county of Donegal, and overlooking 
Lough Swilly. It consists of 3 ex- 
tensive concentric ramparts formed 
of earth mixed with uncemented 
stones, and enclosing in the centre a 
■cashel. This is a circular wall, en- 
closing an area of 77 ft. in diameter, 
not quite perpendicular, but having 
a curved slope, like Staigue Fort in 
Kerry. On each side of the entrance 
gateway are galleries within the 
thickness of the wall, extending in 
length to one-half of its entire cir- 
cuit, though not communicating with 
the gateway, but having entrances 
from the area at their northern and 
southern extremities. In the centre 
of the area of the cashel are remains 
of a small oblong building— probably 
of a chapel — supposed to be of more 
recent erection than the other por- 
tion of the remains. Although, from 
the_ etymology of the word, some | 



writers have considered the Grianan 
of Aileach to have been a Temple of 
the Sun, it is more probable " that it 
was the palace of the northern Irish 
kings from the earliest age of his- 
toric tradition down to the com- 
mencement of the 12th centv." There 
is a fine view from the Grianan, of 
Loughs Foyle and Swilly, backed up 
by the Donegal mountains. 

The other antiquity is St. Co- 
lumb's stone, on the Greencastle- 
road, 1 m. from the town. This is a 
mass of gneiss, exhibiting the rude 
impress of 2 feet, and was one of the 
inauguration stones of the ancient 
chiefs of this district. 

Conveyances. — Rail to Enniskillen 
and Belfast ; rail to Buncrana ; car 
daily to Dungiven ; daily to Letter- 
kenny ; daily to Malin ; daily to 
Moville ; to Rathmelton 4 days a 
week. 

Distances. — Letterkenny, 20 m. ; 
Grianan, 5 ; Moville, '19; Buncrana, 
13 J ; Eathmelton, 14^ ; Manor Cun- 
ningham, 14 ; Culmore, 5 ; Portrush, 
26 ; Coleraine, 33 ; Strabane, 15. 

Excursions. — ■ 

1. Grianan Aileach. 

2. Moville. 

3. Buncrana. 

4. Down Hill. 

5. Dungiven (Rte. 12). 

[Derry is the starting-point" for an 
excursion through the peninsula of 
Inishowen, famous for its poteen, 
and in more early and uncivilised 
times as being the stronghold of the 
descendants of Kinel Owen, a son 
of Nial of the Nine Hostages, who 
waged a constant and fierce war 
with the O'Dohertys, descendants 
of Connell Gulban. These latter, 
however, about the loth cent., dispos- 
sessed the older residents. The 
tourist can proceed either by rail to 
Fahan and Buncrana, or by road, 
which, for the first mile or so, runs 
along the side of the Foyle, but turns 
off to the 1. at Belmont (T. Macky, 
Esq.), in the grounds of which is the 
stone of St. Columb. It then passes 



I o. 22 7. — Buncrana — Carndonagli 



I 



I rrianan Aileach Mountain, 

; it on 1., and strikes upon 

1. _h Swilly at Glen Collan (T. 

in, Esq. , opposite the island 

I )h. 

13] in. /» airrana {Hotel: Com- 

3 a pleasant and pretty 

little bathing-place, situated on the 

- of 1. 'nuh Swilly. between 

achures of 2 rivers, the 

II and Crana, and at the base of 

agh Hill, which ris< - 

E„ and the Mouldy Moun- 

i 1021 ft. on the 8. It ] ssesc 

Little trade arising from flax- 

tnd the manufacture of 

- iodii 

head-quart* re of 

the artillery the district, em- 

l ue - r -. le and Swilly. 

A • ;' th( 0*Doh< rtj a is 

1 with a modern 

and with its approaches 

picture - ine object. 

/' ' I iirndonagn, 12 m. ; 

Bat wat i r, H : Deny, 

s. — By rail to Deny. 
[1 ifi a pretty minor excursion to 
• and Head of Dunree 7 m. s 
thither running at tin 
of Agha- I Hill 11 I ft., and pass- 

rt and the ruin of B 
I 

D B i' rmination 

i 3 Hill cupying 

■ rict of the Lnish- 
rming a p 
itral chain of 
Snaght. T. road tern 
. but the rx ! strian can 
le of it to Dun.. 
[guardian of the 
Loiil'Ii Swilly. It 
rthy of ration thai the 

I ' Hills v . vidently a con- 

the Glenalla Moun- 

'• c isi prior to 

the irruption of th< - which now 

I :_ . Swilly. 

: y of the coast is wild 
an id the hills rise with 

Le abni] from t 



shon\ The road from Buncrano to 
Carndonagli follows up the valley of 
the Owen Crana for some distance, 
giving off at Carroghill Bridge n 
branch road to the villages of Du- 
nally and Ballyliffin on the X. 
coast. It then passes a tarn known 
as Mintiagh's Lough, ami strii 
into the heart of the mountains 
between Slieve Snaght ^"Ilill of 
Snow "\ 2010 ft., on the rt.,and tho 
(Jrris Hills on the 1. 

-o.V m. Carndonagli, is a neat 
little town, which principally sup- 
plies the commissarial of the Enish- 
OWen district. There is, however, but 
little to see, save across opposite the 
ch.-yard. From hence it is L9 m. 
by the direct road to Londonderry, 
and 3 m. to the village of Malm, 
which is situated at the head of 
the estuary of Trawbreaga Bay, an 
extensive sandy pill, that joins 
Lough Swilly, past the dreary dunes 
of Dough Isle. At its embouchure 
are Glashedy Island and the 15 
Rocks, together with Carrickabraby 
Castle, another of the O'Dohertys' 
ruined fortalices. Adjoining Malm 
is Malin Hall (J. Hawby, Esq.% 
Bald to be the most northerly resi- 
dence in Ireland. 

m. N.E. of the village is Malin 
Head, one of the famous aortherly 
promontories that are so conspicu- 
ous to passeng< re by the Montreal 

uners. It is of no gn at height, 
but the coast La exceedingly line, 

and a .-ciamble along the cliffs 

from the Five Fingers to the Head 
will amply repay the lov< r of stern 
rock BCenery. On the head is a 
Lighthouse and coastguard station, 
1 a little way oil* shore is the 
group of the Garvan Hills. Another 

light ifl exhibited on the island • f 
Inishtrahull, some <; m. \<> the X.K., 
;i precaution very i" c y along 
this stormy i B tw< < □ Malin 

and Glengard ' !■ ads the cliffs are 
very magnificent, being upwards 
- ft. in height, and resembling 
: Moh( c i;. I I re, though 



70 



"Route S. — SVkjo to Strabanc. 



Ireland. 



not presenting the same sheer wall 
of precipice. From the village of 
Malin a road of 4 m. runs to CuldafY, 
where the river of the same name 
runs into the sea. CuldafY House is 
the seat of G. Young, Esq. 

From hence it is 9 J m. to Movillc 
{Hotd: Commercial), a watering- 
place which the citizens of Deny 
love to frequent in the summer. A 
pretty place it is, for, in addition to 
the sheltering ridges of the Squire's 
Cairn and Craignamaddy at the back, 
it commands the fine outlines of 
Benyevenagh and Keady, beyond 
Newtown Limavadcly, and is more- 
over enlivened by the constant 
stream of shipping entering and 
leaving the port. It is a favourite 
excursion to Inishowen Head 6 m., 
passing about halfway the old fortress 
of the ODohertys at Greencastle, 
together with the modern fort that 
commands the entry of the Lough 
and M'Gilligan Point. 

Conveyances. — A steamer plies 
from Deny during the summer 
months. Car to Deny daily. 

Distances. — Deny, 18 m. ; CuldafY, 
"9 .j : Inishowen, 6 ; Greencastle, 3. 

The road from Moville to Deny 
keeps nearly the whole distance 
■close to the shores of the Lough, 
passing 8 m. the village of Carrow- 
keel, where the Cabry river is crossed, 
and a road to Carndonagh given off. 
At this point the estuary of the 
Foyle is at its broadest. 

13 m., adjoining the village of 
Muff, is Kilderry, the seat of G. 
Hart, Esq. Here the Buncrana road 
runs in, passing, between Muff and 
Bunfort, Miltown House, and skirt- 
ing the base of the picturesque Scalp 
Mountain, 1589 ft. Soon after leav- 
ing Muff the traveller sights the 
Fort of Culmorc, and guesses, from 
the number of pretty villas that 
border the road and shore, that he is 
approaching Deny.] 



ROUTE 8. 

FROM SLIGO TO STRABANE, THROUGH 
BALLYSHANNON AND DONEGAL. 

Slicfo (Etc G) (Hotels: Imperial 
and Victoria, the latter the best) is 
an important seaport town of some 
10,700 Inhab., in close neighbour- 
hood to scenerv such as falls to 
the lot of very few business towns. 
The tourist in search of the pictu- 
resque cannot do better than take 
np his quarters here for a time. It 
is remarkably well situated in the 
centre of a richly-wooded plain, 
encircled on all sides, save that of 
the sea, by lofty mountains, the 
ascent of which commences from 3 
to 4 m. of the town, while on one 
side of it is a lake almost equal in 
beauty to any in Ireland, and on the 
other a wide and sheltered bay. The 
connexion between the two is main- 
tained by the broad river Garogue, 
issuing from Lough Gill, and emptying 
itself, after a course of nearly 3 m., 
into Sligo Bay. It is crossed by 2 
bridges joining the parish of St. 
John (in which is the greater portion 
of the town) with that of Calry on the 
N. bank. The Port, in which a good 
deal of business is carried on, was 
considerably improved by the forma- 
tion of the Ballast Bank Quay, 
2250 ft. long, where vessels drawing 
13 ft. water can moor, while those 
of larger draught can anchor safely 
in the pool. The approaches to the 
port are admirably lighted by 2 fixed 
lights on a small rock called Ovster 
Island, on which is also a beacon 
known as the Metal Man, and a 
3rd placed further out on the Black 
Bock. The town itself, although con- 
taining several important buildings, 
cannot be admired for its general 
arrangement, or for the cleanliness 
of its streets, though it must be al- 
lowed that they are better kept than 
in many larger cities. The antiquities 



LSD. 



Route 8. — Sligo — KnocJcnarea, 



I withstanding the im- 

that Sligo anc. Sligeach 

a i arly as 1-1- by the 

- ; of Maurice Fitzgerald, Earl 

Kildare, who founded a castle 

1 abb ) . Both were subsequently 

I, first by O'Donell in 1270, 

in by Mac William Burgh, 

_■ rebuilt by the Karl of 

inner there are no 

s, Sligo was also the scene 

1041, when it was taken and 
; •:,« 1 for a time by the Parlia- 
miy under Sir Charles 
( 

the Abbe are just 

1 the Imperial 1 loto : . Ti e ch., 

I aid first founde I, ^ 

I by fire in 1 II 1. and " for it- 

n XXII. in-anted 

l 

11 who should v: 

>ntribute towards the expei 

•uildii. ] insists 

1. 1 choir with central 

support -1 at the 

ion by lofty poinl 

Tl I on the S. by 5 

lv pointed windows, and 

E. by an exquisitely tracerie 1 

window. It an 

with ' ipartn ents 1 

• a mural monument 

• I I < Sonnors, on 

i with his 

\ the choir a 

ii leads to a rode 

\ith the graveyard. 

>of underneath 

mall arches which 

l« t\\< en i; Lng and 

■ 

I • f the 8. 

landing, with octangular 

Tl another altar-tomb 

intiful design, 161G. On 

tl». N the cloi 

ea, • ach of 
which 18 beautifully-worl 

ibout 1 it. in height The 

ly the pillars, which 

ich in «1 of th< i 






1 






on the iii-id' 
cloitit . -. ... 



of the Irish examples, differ from the 
cloisters of our English cathedrals 
in their small dimensions, and in 
the fact that the interior passage is 
filled with gravestones, sugg< 
thai they were intended more for 
burial purposes than for a promenade 
or ambulacrum. 

The Ch. of St. John is a cruciform 
Perp, ch., with a massive tower at 
the W. end. The parapet carried all 
round it gives a singular effect. 
The only other building in the town 
worth notice is the Lunatic Asylum. 

( mveyances. — Uly. to Boyle, Car- 
rick, Longford, and Mullingar. Car 
daily to Westport through Ballina 
and Castlebar; daily to Ballyshan- 
non, Donegal, and Strabane; daily to 
Manor Hamilton and Enniskillen; 
daily to Tobercurry. 

Distances.— Boyle, 23$ m.: Car- 
rick, 33; Ballinafhd, 19£; Longford, 
54J-; Ballysadare, 5; Markree, s i ; 
I Ilooney, 6] ; Ballina,;)? ; Dromore, 
21 : Lough Gill, by water, 2^: Dro- 
mahaire, 11: Hazelwood, 3; Manor 
Hamilton, 14 ; Enniskillen, 39 ; Glen, 
Ah ; Ballyshannon, 25J ; Drumclifjf, 
5; Knocknarea, 5; Benbulben, 8; 
Cliffoney, 14. 

Excursions. — 

1. To the hill and glen of Knoek- 

li:il 

2. Lough Gill. 

1 1 tllj -.tdaiv and Markree (Bte. 
l- . 

!. Benbulben. 

5. Glencar. . 

[I. To Knocknarea t 5 m., a sin- 
gular truncated hill of carboniferous 
umestone which occupies the greater 
portion of the promontory between 
Sligo I »= « > and Ballysadare Bay, and 
which, from it- extraordinary form 
and abrupt < Bcarpments, is a great 

tmv iii all Bligo and Doneg I 
vi< a a. ,\ i. ad runs round the whole 

the base of it, making the circuit 
aboul ll in., passing on th< \. side 
( //■ . the at of t 

Ormsby family. Winding round 
K locknari a, the toui it overloo] 



70 



Route 8. — Sligo to Strabane. 



Ireland. 



Culleenamore (J. Barrett, Esq.), and 
soon arrives at the 

Glen of Knocknarea. This is an ex- 
ample of disrupted strata so common 
in limestone districts, and is as ro- 
mantic as can well be conceived. It 
consists of a deep chasm, J m. long 
and 30 ft. broad, bounded on each 
side by vertical cliffs about 40 ft. in 
height, and overgrown and over- 
shadowed in every direction with 
trees and trailing underwood. A 
walk rims through the defile, at the 
entrance of which is a charming little 
cottage ornee, embedded in flowers, 
and commanding a splendid prospect 
over Ballysadare Bay. Regaining 
the road, the tourist can easily 
ascend Knocknarea, although it is 
steep and sometimes slippery. The 
summit, on which is an enormous 
cairn visible far and wide, com- 
mands a magnificent panoramic view, 
embracing on the N. the Donegal 
Mountains with the scarred pre- 
cipices of Slieve League and the pro- 
montory of Malin Head. Further E. 
the visitor traces the gap of Barnes- 
more bevond Donegal. Eastwards 
are the limestone ranges of Benbulben, 
Truskmore, and the Manor Hamilton 
hills, with the wooded banks of 
Lough Gill and the Slish Mountains 
nearer home. S. are the Curlew 
Mountains, and more westward the 
numerous ranges which intervene be- 
tween Sligo and Ballina, overtopped 
in clear weather by the conical heights 
of Nephin and Croagli Patrick at West- 
port. Due W. the eye traces a long, 
line of coast of JCrris as far as the 
Stags of Broadhaven ; Avhile just un- 
derneath one's feet is a perfect map of 
81 ig< », witli the bay, islands, and light- 
houses, and the long sandy peninsula 
of Elsinore. On the southern side 
La Ballysadare, witli its numerous 
estuaries : on the furthest shore the 
woods of Carrowmorc (the residence 
of Richard Olpherts, Esq ) ; on the 
northern bank of the estuary is Sea- 
field (W. Phibbs, Esq.). Knocknarea 
forms the northern escarpment of 



that large tract of lower limestone 
that extends from Galway through 
Mayo and Sligo, and the geologist 
will find in its shales many charac- 
teristic fossils, and especially corals. 
He may return to Sligo by a more 
southerly road, passing 1. Bathcarrick 
(Mrs. Walker), and rt. Cloverhill 
(W. Chalmers, Esq.) The antiquary 
may visit the ch. of Killuspugbrone, 
built by St. Patrick for Bishop 
Bronus in the 5th cent. It has a 
semicircular-headed doorway, placed 
in the S. wall, and not in the W., 
according to the usual custom.] 

[2. The visitor will of course make 
an excursion to Lough Gill, which 
is considered by manv, though on a 
small scale, to be almost equal to 
Killarney. A little steamer plies 
every 2nd day to the head of the 
lake, returning on the next. This 
is the best way of seeing it; but 
if the steamer does not suit, a 
row-boat may be engaged above 
the bridge. The 2 J m. of the river 
that intervenes between the town 
and the lake is lined by a suc- 
cession of lawns and beautiful woods. 
Close to the town on the N. bank 
is the Glebe House, succeeded by the 
noble demesne of Hazehvood (Bight 
Hon. John "Wynne, M.P.), one of 
the finest and most charming estates 
in Ireland. The domain, which is 
remarkable for the richness and 
variety of its wood, extends for seve- 
ral miles on both sides of the river and 
lake, and includes, besides Hazelwood 
proper, the estates of Percy Mount, 
the former residence of Sir Richard 
Gethin, and Hollywell (formerly Hon. 
Bcv. J. Butler) on the northern 
shore. The mansion of Hazelwood 
is situated on a tongue of land be- 
tween the river and the lake. The 
great ornament of this estate is the 
remarkably fine timber, on winch Mr. 
Wynne has expended many years of 
careful culture. He has introduced, 
amongst others, the yew and the 
arbutus, which flourish in great 
abundance, increasing the similarity 



Ireland. 



7? mte 8. — Lough GUI — Dromahaire, 



73 



the foliage to thai of Killarney, 

Within the deer-park the antiquary 

w;il find a stone enclosure called 

1. a. -lit Con Mir Ruis, "the stone of 

Con, the sod of Rush." The central 

.~>o ft. long by 25 wide, and 

• •i<d by an avenue with 2 

Jli r enclosures. Within a circuit 

of :; m. qo less than 30 raths arc to 

und. and u in the townland of 

win 'iv there still exist 60 circles 

1 cromlechs, the largest collection 

monuments of this kind in the 

ah [slands, and probably, with 

ption of Carnac, tin- most 

ble in the world." — V<tri>. 

i (till i> about 5 in. in Length 

\\ broad, and is situated in a 

surrounded on all Bides by 

oils, I "ii the S. being rug 

and precipitous. Tin- range consists 

; 900 t't. and Blish 

Mountain 9 7 , having a gneissic 

sing int<» granite, wh( 

lark rocks contrast admirably with 

e lake shores. 

• ral islands, many of 

i planted by Mr. Wynne. The 

air Cottage Island 

,t tin- entrance, and Church Island in 

tre : the latter contains some 

t ruins. Both localities art- the 

of picnic parties from 

particularly favoured in 

aving such a Lovely rendezvous. For 

I driving, the Lake 

-♦•.•n .a advantage by a 

9 

f ( 3 M amtaili [which 

ended by every visitor 

. as it i- near the town, of easy 
I nuiiiiiaiida magnificent 
It then | ■ —' - < 'aini.-loot 
inor, Esq. . Abbej view 
— Phillips, I Isq. . and Ci*-\ 

adjoining the I [azel- 

rood don i descends 

a of the lake, running 

romantic glen be- 

Daeane and Blish 

Ballintogh p. " From 

•k rising out of the woo 1 

3 thi shores oJ I 

/ 



Gill, and which is about a mile E. 
of the new Ballintogher entrant 
to Hazelwood, perhaps the l» >t 
view is obtained. The rock- is just 
that height which exhibits the 
limited area of the lake, its short 
and little islands, to most advan- 
tage." — Frasi r. 

10 m. Dromahaire, a small town 
on the rt. bank of the Bonet river, 
which, rising in the hills mar 
Manor Hamilton, drains all that part 
of the country and falls into Lough 
Gill. There are several remains here 
that will interest the antiquary. 
The old Hall, the property of (';. 
Lane Fox, Esq., occupies the site of 
a castle of the O'Bourkes, chiefs of 
tin's district. The former building, 
however, was made use of in lhlM 
by Sir William Villicrs to erect a 
baronial mansion under a patent 
from the Duke of Buckingham, by 
which he was granted 11,500 acres of 
land in Dromahaire. It lias been con- 
siderably modernised, but contains 
some traces of its old importance. 
On the opposite side of the river, 
close to Friarstown (J. Johnstone, 
Esq. . are remains of the abbey of 
Crevelea, founded for Franciscan- by 
Margaret, wife of O'Rourke, in 15 v . 
and dissolved in James I.V reign. 
Oltourke's tomb, with his effigy, is 
.-till visible, together '"with some 
curious figures over the graves of 
the Bforroughs, Cornins, and other-." 

\'>< si lefl th( BS remains there are also 

a ruined ch. on the hill-side, the 
foundation of which i> attributed to 
Bt Patrick, and a castle nearer the 

lake, known a- Harrison's C'a>tle. 

Distances. — Bligo, l<» m.; Manor 
Hamilton, i» . ; 1 tarumkeeran, B 

'Die tourist should return to Bligo 
on the N. side of the lake, passi 
in. from Dromahaire the rains 

of Newton-Gore, the manorial ■ 

fete o] sir Robert Gore Booth, 

I ; it. Prom hence the road I., i 

tic back of iioiivweii and Bazel- 
woo i to Bligo 6 m. The whole "t 
thi- circuit will be about 20 dl It 






Route 8. — Sligo to Strabane. 



Ireland. 



may be mentioned, for the benefit 
of the angler, that the fishing in the 
longh is excellent, bnt application 
for permission must be made to the 
owner.] 

.V ear leaves Bianconi's coach- 
office daily for Donegal and Stra- 
ta? le. The road runs past the harbour, 
and soon rises into somewhat high 
ground, as it cuts across the neck of 
the Elsinore promontory. 1 m. rt. is 
Mount Shannon (F. M. Olpherts, 
Esq.), and a little further on rt. 1 m. 
are Doonally House fK. C. Parke, 
Esq.), and Willowbrook, a residence 
of W. O. Gore, Esq., M.P. The 
whole of the road from Sligo to 
Cliffony and Bundoran is carried be- 
tween the sea and a long range of 
mountains, which, from their sudden 
rise from the plain, their fine 
escarpments, and their plateau-like 
summits, are marked features in the 
landscape. The general arrange- 
ment of these hills is that of an 
amphitheatre of which the northern 
point is Benbulben (1722 ft.), suc- 
ceeded by King's Mountain (1527), 
Truskmore (2113), Keelogyboy 
(1430). To the S. of them are the 
basin of Lough Gill, with the plain 
and town of Sligo. 

These limestone ranges offer good 
finds to the botanist, yiz. Aspidium 
lonchitis, Asplenium viride, Poa 
alpina, Oxyria reniformis, Saxifraga 
vigoides, Arenaria ciliata, Draba 
ii. ana, Melanopsis Cambrica, &c. 

5 m. rt. is the pretty little ch. 
of Drumcliff (anc. Druim-chliabh), 
tiding on the bank of the river 
of the same name, which here 
enters Drum cliff Bay. A monas- 
tery founded by St. Columb existed 
here in 590, and was made into a 

liopric, afterwards, however, trans- 
ferred to Elphin. The traces of its 
former greatness are now limited to 
two beautiful sculptured crosses in 
the ch.-yard, and the broken base of a 
round tower on the opposite side of 
the road and adjoining the glebe. 

£ A road on 1. keeps along the N". 



side of Drumcliff Bay through the 
village of Carney to 4 m. Lissadell, 
the seat of Sir Robert Gore Booth, 
Bart., M.P., who has been most suc- 
cessful in demonstrating how much 
can be done to improve and beautify 
a coast so exposed to the fury of the 
Atlantic and devastated by sand- 
heaps as this is. If the pedestrian 
can afford the time, he will be in- 
terested in this wild promontory, 
and will be repaid by an excursion 
round it, rejoining the high road at 
Grange. 

On the shore, close to Lissadell, 
are the scanty ruins of Dunfort 
Castle, while those of Ardtermon 
are about 1 m. further on, close to 
the miserable fishing village of 

Eaghly. There is here, near the 
shore, a singular open basin called 
the Pigeon-holes, into which the 
tide rushes with great force through 
subterranean channels, and, as might 
be expected, under strong westerty 
winds, exhibits extraordinary effects. 

The district to the N. of this is 
completely overrun with sand, and 
doubtless many a dwelling and per- 
haps buildings of more importance, 
as the churches at Perranzabuloe in 
Cornwall, have been buried here. 
As it is, there are sufficient ruins of 
churches and castles to make it a 
Tadmor in the wilderness.] 

[6 m. a road on rt. branches off to 
Manor Hamilton 15 m. (Rte. 6) 
through the vale of 

Glencar, one of the most beautiful 
and romantic spots in the whole 
country. It traverses a narrow defile, 
following the course of the Drumcliff 
river between the King's Mountain 
and some equally lofty mountains on 
the S. At 4 m. the source of the 
river is reached at Glencar Lough, 
a lovely sheet of water lying at 
the very base of the mountains. 
Here is a fine waterfall 300 ft. in 
height, the water of which, the 
visitor may chance to be told in 
Sligo, runs up hill, a state of things 
explained by the curious fact "that 



I 



Route 8. — Cliffony — Bundoran. 



75 



wl ■■ wind blows strongly from 

s. the water is prevented from 

GHencar is a justly 

rite excursion from Sligo, from 

;i new road has been made. 

1 beyond Glencar Lough 

limits through an equally fine 

the little ch. of Killasnet 

Ifanor I [amilton.] 

At 1" in. Qra g the corner of 

B ubulbcn is rounded, and the 

- gradually retreat further 

inland towards Lough Melvin. 

seller will notic «ne 
lit it' tli. . the island of 

/ 9} ;. famous for its potheen, 

taining a ancient mo- 

in a circular stone 
ch. w as di dicated to SI 
M< flash, of the date of the 
built with a cement 
: but the residences of the 
1 without any 
k s arch, with dome 

1 without any cement In 
interior is a wooden image of 
sunt. From Qrangi singu- 
larly straight road runs for miles 

iund overlook! 
• 

Clij 11 m., where the tourist 

-ted in 1 improvements 

•t those made by Lord 

in 1 h s. [nd< 

it lent t<» ly. 

or not, that the 
ad 

in ire in enl 

other and 

<r there Lb 
lim ss and 
t which Btri 

Her. The view on 
• • at of 
Band-hills, but improves a 
S . at the promo 

r looking the 
unity and li 
. which, 

med by 
I , who 

\ imopbila 
iinacea, 1 . 



ground was cemented, and could 
offer resistance to the driving sand. 

At 17J m. the LJuff river is 
crossed at Bunduff Bridge, from 

which point the road lings the const 

pretty close, as it trends in a \.K. 
direction. The view opens out very 
finely over Bundoran and the hay 1 
Donegal, backed up in the N. 1\ 
the coast-line and mountains between 
1 Donegal and Killyb< 

l'. 1 } m. a little beyond the villa 
of Tullaghan, the Drowes river issu- 
ing from Lough Melvin is crossed, 
and the county of Donegal entered. 

( )n 1., between road and sea, are 

remains of the castle of Duncarbry, 
hiiilt by Isabel MacClancy in the 
.11 of Elizabeth. The frequent 
asp ct of neat roadside cottagi 3, 
together with now and then a more 
ambitious style of house, betokens 
the approach to 

2 1 A m. Bundorojn {Hotels : Ilamil- 
ton*s and Gallagher's)) the great 
\. W. bathing-place, to which tlie 
rank and fashion of Ireland have 
been of late resortu It is cer- 

tainly beautifully situated on a hold 
portion of the coast of Donegal 
Bay, but, like many other water- 
ing-places, it Lacks vegetation and 
shelter, the bills, although tine objects 
a landscape, l" ing ion Gar 1 
liable for near resort. 
'Idie opposite coast affords views of 
St. John- Point and Lighthoua . 
Inver and Killytx gs 1 1 iys, termi- 
nated in the extr< me distance by 

the Cliffs 01 T« 1 lin II< ad and Slh 

! tie. Bundoran is the favourite 

• it of the Knni-kilh n people, 

who, 1 with visitors from the 

other of the kingdom, fr< 'pant 

it in large numbers. The ten 
will no' envel tack op 

in the window 1 notification ti 

lo he h otion 

of the Bea ha- \ cliffs U 

numeroi jque forms, an 1 

ample of which ma) be s< en in M 1 
Fairy B 2 lit. in 

1 2 



76 



Route 8. — Sligo to Strabane. 



Ireland. 



breadth perfectly formed and de- 
tached from all architectural en- 
cumbrances." — Wright 

Conveyances. — Daily to Sligo; daily 
to Donegal ; daily (3 times) to Bally- 
shannon and Enniskilleu. 

Distances. — Ballyshannon, 4 m. ; 
Sligo, 21 J ; Enniskillen, 31 ; Donegal, 
17i ; Kinlough, 2 J ; Lough Melvin, 4 ; 
Gleiiade, 9J ; Manor Hamilton, 15. 

Excursions. — 

1. Kinlough. and Lough Melvin. 

2. Ballyshannon. 

[It is a very beautiful drive to 
Manor Hamilton through Kinlough. 
The Drowes is crossed at Lennox's 
Bridge. 

2J m. Kinlough (anc. Cean-lacka), 
prettily situated at the western ex- 
tremity of Lough Melvin, contains a 
spring impregnated with sulphuretted 
hydrogen. There are some nice re- 
sidences in the neighbourhood — Kin- 
lough House (J. Johnston, Esq.), 
Brook Hill, and, on the southern 
bank of Lough Melvin, Mount Pro- 
spect, the residence of Mr. Conolly, 
M.P., the owner of Bundoran. 

Lough Melvin is a very consider- 
able sheet of water 7 J m. in length ; 
but though the southern banks are 
extremely striking, it generally at- 
tracts the angler more than the 
general tourist. The former will find 
accommodation at an inn at the little 
village of Garrison on the W. side of 
the lake, and he can obtain per- 
mission to fish from Mr. Johnston of 
Kinlough House. There is good 
salmon until the middle of May, 
after which grilse comes in ; also 
splendid trout-fishing, especially of 
the sort named gillaroo. There 
are several islands of no great 
size, one close to the S. shore con- 
taining the remains of the castle of 
Rossclogher, "and on the eastern 
shore are the ruins of the ancient ch. 
of Rossinver, supposed to have been 
that of the nunnery of Doiremell, 
founded by St. Tigernach for his 
mother St. Mella." — Lewis. From 
Kinlough the road is carried up a 



splendid ravine, similar to the one 
at Glencar (p. 74), the hills on each 
side ribing in sudden escarpments to 
the height of 1500 ft. At the top 
of the water-level is 

10 m. Lough Glenade, a small lake 
buried in the heart of the mountains, 
on the E. bank of which is Glenade 
House (G. T. Cullen, Esq.). From 
this lake issues the Bonet river, which 
flows into Lough Gill at Droma- 
haire (p. 73). 

15 i m. Manor Hamilton (Rte. 6). 
The tourist should, however, before 
arriving here, turn off to the rt. to 
see the village of Lurganboy, which 
is situated in the middle of the most 
romantic scenery.] 

From Bundoran the road is tame 
and surrounded by sandbanks. On 1. 
is the ruined ch. of Inishmacsaint, 
which, as the name implies, was at 
one time situated on an island 
previous to the drifting of the sand. 

25 J m. Ballyshannon (anc. Ath- 
seanaigh) (Rte. 6) {Hotels ; Co- 
burn's, Erne ; both poor), famous 
for its salmon-leap, presents from 
a distance an infinitely pleasanter 
appearance than a nearer inspec- 
tion warrants. Its situation is almost 
fine, on a steep hill overlooking 
the broad and rushing stream of 
the Erne, but the streets are dirty 
and mean, especially in the lower 
part of the town. The castle of 
Ballyshannon, of which scarce any 
traces remain, was the scene of a 
disastrous defeat of the English 
under Sir Conyers Clifford in 1597. 
They had besieged O'Donell, who 
was shut up here, for 5 days ; 
but the garrison having made a 
desperate sally, they retreated in 
haste, and lost a great portion of 
their force in an unsuccessful at- 
tempt to cross the Erne. The 2 
portions of the town, the lower 
one of which is called the Port, 
are connected by a bridge of 16 
arches, a few hundred yards above 
the celebrated Falls, where an 
enormous body of water is preci- 



Ireland. 



Route 8. — fiaTly shannon — Ball intra. 



77 



pitated over a cliff some 80 ft high 
and 10 ab >ve high water, with a 
noise that is perfectly deafening. 
This is the scene of the Balmon-leap. 
'•Tit salmon that drop down in 
August and September return again 
up the same river in the months of 
spring, and this can only l>e ac- 
mplished by an ascent of the tall 
at Ballyshannon. Traps arc laid in 
different parts of the fall, with 
funnel-shaped entrances, into which 
the BalmoD Bwim, and are preserved 
until required for the market : in- 
tervals also left between the 
ps, through which the fish reach 
the t<>p of the tall by a spring of at 
1 1 tt. in height, though it is at 
r that i lene of Leaping 
1 with th< test 
tivitv. ' — Wriqht. The fishery is very 
id is rented by I hr. Sheil, 
i application must be made 
for 1' • ti>h. Anglers :<]■< , how- 
sn numerous, that it is not 
al able tor the proprietor t<> 
permission. The antiquary 
II find, in the parish ofKilbarron, 
in which the N. pari ofBallyshannon 
i- situated, no Lees than 11 Danish 
and between :'» and 4 m. to the 
N. W. the ruin- ofKilbarron Castle, 
• ess of th< I • < l< rys, 
1 in their day for their .-kill 
iii - and history. ( )£ 

I" ther Michael 

O ' the 1< ader of the illustrious 

f the Four Ma.-ters. It 

>d a precipitous rock at the 

of th. A Little to 

tie V ^ this is O olmore, fre- 

thing-place. On the 

n about } m. from the town , 

vi tionof wall of 

tl 






1 1 



founded in 1 1 71* by Rod* ric 
Prince of TirconneL 
A lerable trad* irri< d on 

on, and many iin] -: « » 

le by Ool < fcraolly, 

IlL'll the 

I the 
nth i injuriously 

to • Pop. 3197 



wpeyances* — Donegal daily, also 
to Sligo : twice a day to Enniskillen 
and Bundoran. 

Distances, Sligo, 25J m. ; ]>undo- 
ran, 4 ; Donegal, L3j ; Ballintra, 6£; 
B< Lleek, U ; Enniskillen, 27 ; lvt- 
tigoe, 17 ; Manor Hamilton, 19 ; Gar- 
rison, 9. 

Excursions, — 

1. To Bclleek and Rapids (Rte. 6). 

2. Ballintra and the Pullins. 

The route from Ballyshannon to 
Donegal is through a dreary unin- 
teresting country. 28] m. 1. Oavan 
Garden, the seat of T. J. Atkinson, 
Esq. 

32 m. is the village of Ball intra, in 
the neighbourhood of which the 
mountain limestone is very Largely 
developed. Near it is Brown Hall (J. 
Hamilton, Esq. . through the grounds 
of which the Ballintra river flows in 
a very singular manner. The locality 
ia called the Pullins. "It is formed 
by the course of a mountain torrent 
which runs nearly a mile through a 
most picturesque ravine shaded by a 
mass of deep wood. A solid bed of 
limestone seems to have been cleft 
from 30 to 40 ft, in depth, and in 
this narrow fissure, often turning at 
a very acute angle, the river foams 
along, frequently disappearing in 
caves, when its course passes under 
the rock for a considerable space. 

"It seemed Borne mountain rent and riven 
\ < bannel f<>r the stream had given, 
ligb thf clifia <»t Limestone e 

Hung beetling o'er the torrent's way." 

Rokeby* 

After a course again of J DO. through 
,i meadow, the river reassumes its 
wild character, bnt with increased 
magnifta uce. It sudd< oly descends 
about 60 ft. in a deep chasm, the rocks 
actually m< eting overhead, while 
precipitous wall bounds it od eith< r 
side : it then em< rges und< i b perfect 
Datura! bridge, and, turning suddenly, 
its app< ara op< uing upon the 
: in the di 'i either 

le b p rp« udicular rock extends in 
straight Line to Ballintra, the rivei 



78 



Rotite 8. — Sligo to Str ethane. 



Ireland. 



occupying the entire space between 
these walls." — Hall. 

34Jm.Coxtown(J. Hamilton, Esq.), 
and a little further on the village 
of La gin/, to the 1. of which are 
Belle Isle (A. H. Foster, Esq.), and, 
on an island at the entrance of Do- 
negal Bay, St. Email's, the seat of 
John Hamilton, Esq. 

39 m. Donegal (Dun na Gall) 
(Kte. 9) {Hotel: Dillon's), a small 
county town of about 1550 Inhab., 
is prettily situated at the mouth 
of the Esk and the head of the bay 
of Donegal. The numerous shoals 
and difficulties of approach have how- 
ever interfered sadly with its position 
as a port, the business done here 
being very small. The principal ob- 
ject of interest is the ruined castle of 
the O'Donells. " Tyrconnel is the 
Celtic name of Donegal ; meaning 
the Land of Connel, who was son to 
Nial of the 9 Hostages, a monarch of 
Ireland of ancient fame, from whom 
descended the O Don ells of Done- 
gal. James I. conferred in 1602 the 
title of Earl of Tyrconnel and Baron 
Donegal on Roderick O'Donell, one 
of this race ; but it was lost to the 
family from the want of male issue." — 
Dublin Univ. Mag. In 1587 O'Do- 
nell held his castle in defiance 
against the English government, 
who, not having sufficient force to 
send against him, captured him by 
stratagem. A vessel was sent to the 
coast laden with wine, the effects of 
which w r ere too powerful for the chief, 
who had rashly accepted the hospita- 
lities of the captain. He was bound, 
when drunk, and carried to Dublin 
Castle, from which, however, he even- 
tually escaped. The castle of Donegal 
is a beautiful Elizabethan building, 
combining defensive with domestic 
purposes, and consists of a tall 
gabled tower with 2 bartizan turrets, 
of which only one is perfect. It is 
more than probable that it was re- 
built by Sir Basil Brooke, to whom 
a grant was made in 1610. The prin- ' 
cipal apartment is lighted by a very , 



fine mullioned window, and contains a 
grand sculptured chimney-piece with 
the arms of Brooke and Leicester, 
below which may be noticed the ball- 
flower. Beneath this hall is a lower 
room with a rudely vaulted roof, the 
stones placed edgeways. In the other 
portion of the castle are a fine round- 
headed window-arch and a pointed 
doorway. The situation overlooking 
the Esk is very charming, and the 
castle, together with the old-fashioned 
garden — 

" A garden wild, 

Where mix'd jonquils and gowans grow, 
And roses 'midst rank clover blow" — 

make up a lovely picture. It now 
belongs to the Earl of Arran. 

The Abbey, founded for Francis- 
can friars in 1474 by Hugh Koe, 
son of O'Donell, occupies a rocky 
position by the river-side. There 
is enough left to show that it was 
a large cruciform church, with pro- 
bably a central tower. It has the 
remains of a good Dec. E. window, 
and also one in the S. transept. On 
the N. of the ch. are the cloisters, of 
which 7 arches remain on the E. and 
6 on the N. They were of the same 
height and character as those of 
Sligo (p. 71). In this abbey were 
compiled the famous 'Annals of 
Donegal,' better known under the 
title of the 'Annals of the Four 
Masters,' of whom Father O'Clery, 
of Kilbarron, was the chief. 

The object of this compilation was 
to detail the history of Ireland up 
to the time in which they lived, in- 
cluding all local events, such as the 
years of foundations and destructions 
of churches and castles, the obituaries 
of remarkable persons, the inaugu- 
rations of kings, the battles of chiefs, 
the contests of clans, &c. " A book, 
consisting of 1100 quarto pages, be- 
ginning with the year of the world 
2242, and ending with the year of 
our Lord's incarnation 1616, thus 
covering the immense space of 4500 
years of a nation's history, must be 
dry and meagre of details in some, 



1 kland. Bouie 8. — Lough Easke— Lough Mour 



70 



it" not in all. parta of it And al- 
though the learned compilers had 
at tin ir disposal, or within _ their 
■h, an immense mass el* historic 
ils, still tlie circumstances under 
wrote were so unfavour- 
t luii they appear to have ex< r- 
und discretion, and one 
it with the economy of time 
- rc< 3, when they left 
of our \-i ry early history 
in the safe ke< ping of Bueh ancient 

from remote ag 
1 them, and collected 

mid make room for 
in \re modern tin 
entful tiii 
h tin y lived themselves."— 

■t ch. is in the prin- 
and has a pr< tty Bjjire 
ua body. A Diss nti 

■ I a 

which mi. ly 1"' 

at! builder not corn- 

el the iin; error of 

up the best view of the 

( ?.— To Sligo daily; to 

laily : to Killy aily. 

■ m. : Ballh 
v-shani Btranorlar, 

17 ; ii« smi I 

3, 17 ; 
I 7 Houi t( lea,4; ( arrick, 

D ^ Us 

. — 
1. I 

I D the road now ' 

inland and fol- 
Bsk. The 

(U- 

• 1 allows 
full \ to the 1.. 

of th( ( 

M 

tinua- 
d which comment 

\ On- 

ly opj 



Gap of Barnesmore, and happy 
the traveller who gets through it on 
■a lino day without the usual ac- 
companiment Of wind and rain, or 
" muht" as it is termed in Donegal. 
A most exquisite landscape opens out 
on the L, in which the blue wan 
Lou.uii Ka>ke till up the basin at i 
foot of the hills; and on its banks 
arc the woods and groves of Lough 
Easke Bouse, the beautiful seat of 
T. B oki . Esq. : also the denu sne 
n[' Ardnamona (G. 0. Wray, Esq.). 
( )n an island near the B. bank arc 
the mins of O'DonelTs tower, said 
fco have been used by chiefs of that 
clan as a place of confinement. Poly- 
podium phegopteris and Asplenium 
viride grow near the waterfall at tho 
laki 

g on after quitting the neighbour- 
id of the Lough Easke, the road 
cross< - the Lowerymore river and 
« ut. cs the Gap of Barnesmore, a 
narrow mountain pass, on either of 
which rises abruptly Barnesm 
1 191 ftA and Groagh Oonellagh 
1724). When the day is fine and 
clear, the drive up to the watershed 
is v<ry fine, and on looking back the 
traveller obtains an i xtensive view 
over Donegal and the hay ; but it" the 
day is wet, the sooner he g< te out 
the pass the better. Very near the 
aumn - ft. above the » a, a spot 

is pointed out where a man was hu 

in chains, not many y. ars for ft 

murder committed at this place. 

in. it. Lough Mourne, a small 
sheet of water, as Bad and melan- 
choly as its name. At one end 
dight trace - of b castle, " in 
which it is supposed the Huguenot 
historian Etapin compiled his his- 
tory."— Black. [A little before ar- 
riving at the late a road od rt. 
. . n off, following the course of I 
.urn, i; river to OastL 1 > 
L5 vi. Bt . 7 .] 

i )m l <ougrj Mourne the r< I 
rapidly di scends, following the stre 

Burn Daurn tt I he views 

by nu 



80 



"Route 9. — Ennishillen to KiUybegs. 



Ireland. 



means equal to those that the tra- 
veller has left behind, as the cha- 
racter of the country is pastoral and 
flax producing, while the hills are 
much lower and monotonous in 
outline. 

56 m. Ballybofey, a considerable 
village, adjoining the still larger 
one of Stranorlar (Inn : Miller's), the 
river Finn, which here first makes 
its appearance, intervening. The 
only building of interest is a very 
handsome Roman Catholic ch. lately 
b uilt. Close to th e town are the woods 
of Drumboe Castle (Sir S. Hayes), 
and a little further S. of the town 
Tyrcallen (Marquis of Conyngham), 
Summer Hill (James Johnston, Esq.), 
and Meenglass, the seat of Viscount 
Lifford. [Some very pretty scenery is 
to be met with by following the Finn 
up its stream on the N. bank to Fin- 
town, or on the S. bank to Glenties 
(Rte. 10). 4 m. on S. bank is Glen- 
more, the residence of W. M. Style, 
Esq., and 7 m. on N. bank is Clo- 
ghan Lodge, that of Sir T. C. Style, 
to whose praiseworthy exertions the 
improvement, both social and moral, 
of a very large portion of country is 
due. An enormous. amount of wild 
and useless land was reclaimed, a 
ch. built, industrial schools founded, 
and the whole condition of the 
peasantry ameliorated. There is a 
pretty waterfall on the Finn, which 
is here crossed by a bridge connect- 
ing the two roads. 

The road now enters the hills, and 
the river assumes the character of 
a Highland stream, till the traveller 
reaches 17 m. Fintown, a small 
village, beautifully situated on the 
banks of Lough Finn, and under the 
steep cliffs of Aghla (1953 ft.), and 
Scraigs (1410). Some lead-mines, 
likely to be productive, have been 
opened here. From hence a road 
falls into the Dunglow and Glen- 
ties road (Rte. 10).] 

Stranorlar is connected with Stra- 
bane by the Finn Valley Rly., opened 
in 1863, which boasts the merit of 



being the cheapest rly. in Ireland, 
as it only cost 5000Z. a mile. 

60 m. Killygordon, a pleasant vil- 
lage, also on the banks of the Finn, 
contains nothing to detain the tourist. 
About 1 m. rt. is a house where the 
Duke of Berwick is said to have 
passed the night in his northern 
campaign 1689. 

2 m. rt. are Mounthall (W. Young, 
Esq.), and Monellan House ( — Delap, 
Esq.). Further on are Donaghmore Ch. 
and House, the latter the glebe-house 
and residence of the Irving family, 
the patrons of the living. 63 J m. 
Castle Finn was anciently a posses- 
sion of the O'Donells, from whose 
hands it passed in the reign of Eliza- 
beth. The Finn here becomes 
navigable for vessels of small burden. 

Distances. — Raphoe (p. 86), 6 m. ; 
Castle Derg, 7. 

At the village of Clady 65 J m. the 
Finn is crossed, as the road on 
the 1. bank keeps on to Lifford. 
Passing the demesne of Urney 
(A. F. Knox, Esq.), the traveller 
soon reaches 69 m. Strabane (Rte. 7) 
(Hotel : Sim's Abercorn Arms). 



ROUTE 9. 

FROM ENNISKILLEN TO PETTIGOE 
DONEGAL, AND KILLYBEGS. 

This route to Donegal by the E. 
bank of Lough Erne, is not usually 
followed by travellers, who for the 
most part go by Ballyshannon. It 
is, however, a beautiful drive to 
Pettigoe, particularly if the tourist 
keeps the road alongside of the 
lake, and not the car-road through 
Lowtherstown. For a short distance 
it runs close to the railway, diverg- 
ing at a small pool called the Race- 



Ireland. 



Route 9. — Pettigoe — Lough Dcrg. 



81 



re i ke, and approaching Lough 

D6 at i m. Trony ch. On the 

it. of the road is the mound of 

M Bsfield Fort Before reaching the 

ch. a road turns off on rt, to Low- 

therstown. At 5 m. the Bellana- 

Qard stream i> crossed near its 

nth. On rt. i> Riversdale Major 

\ rchdall), and further on arc the 

fad 11. Richardson, 

Esq. . The viewsfrom this road are 

much finer than can be obtained 

n the Ballyshannon road, as it 

ibraces all tin- cliff and hill scen< rv 

• 

W. shore. The estates too 
on if fine and beautifully 

wood( d, particular] • itle 

A I A -lidall, M.l\ and 

B ' pt. Irvin. 

At 1 1 in. /. - ick % a road 

- in from Lowtherstown or 
in. distant Clo 
\ | H.M.I t'Arcy 

Irvin- . 1 a . 

l."> JUL A >Tli;tl I place QQ tllC 

ri\ same name, containing 

• Y- r to inten >t the tra- 

v. lb r. I ontry now begins to 

I wilder, an and dreary 

• hills stretching from < tmagh 

l ;. i - : i ': ghbourhood of 

The K« -a river ris - 

;• LOm I a:,. VIA in the hills of 

D I a • < meHy 

H 1 W. Barton, 1 soon 

which the toui A 

Inn: B milton'e , 
the r J ar 

•rth bank of Lough Erne, op- 

po.-iN' t narrow Ik>a 

Island. 

joe ie in the parish of T- 
r tin- id. be-houi 

■ »f 1\ rmon Ma- 
with drcul 
• • • have 

• M M • th, 
I r : 

was bat I ton in the Par- 

war. I I 

♦•a sanctuary — M ii 

ch. h 
to its c< 



the bishop, to endow it with certain 

properties for the maintenance of the 
clergy connected with the establish- 
ment. To these 1 lands, which were 
denominated Erenach or Termon 

lands, various privileges were an- 
nexed ; they were exempt from all lay 
charges, and became sanctuaries, and 
were in some respects equivalenl to our 
glebe-lands*" Waterfoot is the seat of 
II.W. Barton, Esq. Notwithstanding 
the Beeming insignificance of IVtti- 

. it is the rendezvous of half the 
devotees in Ireland, who at certain 

Si mis throng the place on their way 
to Lough Derg, which lies about 4£ m. 
to the X., in as wild and forbidding 
a mountain region a> can well be 
imagine d. " It is said that no road 
is constructed here, lest the devo- 
tions of the pilgrims should be inter- 
rupted by the presence of too many 
heretics. Nothing can he more de- 
Bolate than the landscape around 
Loch Derg. Barren heathy hills 
surround it on every side, possessing 
neither form nor elevation to give 
the slightest interest to the scene." 
— Inglis. The lake itself is 6 m. long 
and 4 broad, and contains several 
rocky inlands, the largest of them, 
the Station Island, being the Bcene 
of the annual visit of 10,000 unfor- 
tunate people, who journey hither 
from all parts of Ireland, and even 

the Continent, to undergo penance 
in St. Patrick's purgatory. Prom 

the l-t of dune to the 15th of 

Augusl is the time prescribed for 
their religious ceremonies, and the 
number of visitors at this period 
varies from 10,000 to 15,000. A 
ferry-boat, for the charge of 6d. a 

head, convey^ the deVOteOS to the 

Station Island, which is aboul hall 
mile from the shore. Even this spot 
of ground is only a few yda at, 

and is covered with modi rn building 
including chapels and accommod 
ti'.n for penitenta M In tin- vicinity 

of thi i number pf oir- 

cul walla, from 1 to - ft, in 

ight, called tin 3 8 lints' I'eni- 

E 3 



82 



"Route 9. — Ennislcillen to Killybegs. 



Ikeland. 



tential Beds ; and around these, on 
the hard and pointed rocks, the peni- 
tents pass upon their bare knees, 
repeating a certain form of prayer at 
each/' — Holy Wells of Ireland. It 
would be foreign to a Handbook to 
describe the details of the ceremonies, 
accounts of which can be obtained 
in other works on Ireland. The 
geologist will notice the change 
from the limestones of Lough Erne 
to the extensive region of mica 
slates, which from this point em- 
braces nearly the whole of the N.W. 
portion of the kingdom. The very 
vegetation in the neighbourhood of 
Lough Derg attests the change, and 
cannot fail to strike the intelligent 
observer. 

From Pettigoe a wild mountain 
road passes under the base of Knock- 
adrin 752 ft., and Oughtnadrin 1057 
ft., falling into the Bally shannon 
road at Laghy village, from whence 
it is 3J m. to Donegal (Kte. 8). 
Hotel : Dillon's. A car leaves Done- 
gal every morning for Killybegs, dis- 
tance 23 m. From the bridge over 
the Easke the tourist obtains the best 
view of Donegal Castle, and the 
road then crosses the head of the 
bay, affording very pretty coast 
scenes overlooking Doorin and St. 
John's Promontories. 

40 m. Mountcharles, a large vil- 
lage, built on the side of a steep 
hill. Facing the sea is the Hall, 
a property belonging to the Mar- 
quis of Conyngham, but generally 
occupied by his agent. Arrived at 
the top of the hill, it will be seen 
that the road cuts off the neck of 
Doorin Promontory, and descends 
a long hill to Inver, 49 m., which is 
conspicuous for a coTisiderable dis- 
tance from its pretty ch. spire em- 
bosomed in woods. Notwithstand- 
ing the tediousness of these hilly 
roads, the tourist will rarely find the 
time hang heavy, for the views of 
the Donegal mountains are superb. 
To his rt. he has the ranges of Blue 
Stack, Silver Hill, Benbane, and Mul- 



mosog, extending from Barnesmore 
Gap on the E. to Ardara on the W. ; 
while, in front of him is the mighty 
mass of Crownarad beyond Killy- 
begs, and (seen from some points) 
the distant precipices of Slieve Liagh 
or League. 

At Inver the Eanybeg river is 
crossed in its course from Silver Hill 
to the sea. In the woods to the rt. 
is Bony glen, used as a fishing-lodge. 
The road again ascends and cuts off 
the St. John's Point, a singular 
narrow stretch of land that runs out 
to sea for some distance, and is 
terminated at the extremity by a 
fixed lighthouse. 

53 m. Dunkineely, a decayed-look- 
ing village of one street, from 
which the traveller will be not loth 
to emerge. A little further on are 
the ch. and glebe-house of Kil- 
laghtee, overlooking the strand of 
M'Swyne's Bay. This district was 
formerly possessed by the M'Swynes, 
a very powerful sept, whose castle, a 
square massive tower, still exists close 
to the sea. There is a pretty bit of 
landscape at Bruckless, where the 
river Corker flows past a miniature 
pier, mill, and mansion embosomed in 
trees. Crossing the next high ground, 
we descend upon the most charming 
of land-locked bays, on one side 
of which, completely sheltered from 
storms, is 

59 m. Killybegs (anc. Cealha- 
beaga) (Bte. 10), a clean plea- 
sant little seaport, which, without 
any pretensions to the dignity of a 
watering-place, will, as far as situa- 
tion goes, well repay a visit. (Hotels : 
Coane's and Kogers' ; both comfort- 
able. ) The tide comes up to the 
doors of the houses, although the 
harbour is a complete refuge from 
its being so sheltered. At the en- 
trance to the bay is a lighthouse, and 
on the western shore are the wooded 
grounds and residence of the in- 
cumbent (Kev. W. Lodge), together 
with the remnants (very slight) of a 
castle and of a ch„ overgrown with 



Irela] 



7? uie 9, — Kilcar— Slieve League. 



S3 



. and not i aing any 

markable feature b. The \ isitor 

- iould inspect the schools built by 

Air. Murray, which are as well 

Lered as they are of pretty and 

' 5. — Car to Donegal 

ly. 

I , s v . — Donegal, 23 m, : [nver, 
inkan< Ardara, 1<> ; 

-. 16 : Pintragh, 2 ; Kilcar, 
; ( ' . 9 : Sli< \ I., ague, 12 ; 

Malinnx.iT, 17. 
. — 
1. Kj ar. 

< nick and Slieve I „ue. 

Id now tak< 
(as tic ■ public c 

plore t iit disti 
Kill . which, - ar as 

[ual to anythi 

i ;, and - tO be 

11 known. 

i brings us down 

I _ '. Bay, overhung by 

mount iin known as 

1, L619 \ Pintragh House 

Et. 1 1 tnilton, Esq. 

I sea-vi re very exntesive as 

_■ the elevate d road, 

• whole i from the 

doran to S ind 

f Erris and Tyrawl 

I ahull. 

and Tnu particularly con- 

rillage 

i hill, at the fool of 
which is la brawling 

picture. As the n 
a>- hills again, tin- 

_rir-t will not i<-« • the hcapnof 1 

- d 

and i iin 

- to 

i pooL i per- 

i. but 

it ia | darly 

ad 

wild moorland 

- In. I /;, ;u, 



highland village, situated on the 
hank of the Teelin river, and at I 
t'ooi of the gigantic mass of Slit 
Liagh or League, which rises to 1972 
ft., and has a very prominent and 
peculiar edge. The tourist should 
make Carrick his head-quart 
at the pleasant little hotel, built 

by Mr. Conolly, MP., where lie will 

find great cleanliness and civility, 
with peculiar advantages for explor- 
ing a district teeming with coast and 
mountain beauty. 

J Ttstano g. — BjUybegs,9 m. ; Glen, 
6 : Ardara by Qlengeask, 1-i ; Slieve 
1 , igue, 2}. 

For the ascent of the latter moun- 
tain, the tourist had better take a 
guide, more tor the purpose of 
saving tun< than because there 
any danger ; for the outlying ridg 
are so boggy and deceptive li 
a straight cut is especially to be 
guarded against. For about 1 m. 
the road follows the (ilen or Teelin 
river, which like that at Killyto 
speedily changes from a mountain 
torrent into a landlocked bay of 

.it beauty. On the rt. hank is 
Roxborough, the residence of Rev. P. 
Labatt, the rector of Kilcar. There 

u.inl station at Teelin, the 
most likely place to obtain a boat, 
should it be required to row round 
any part of the coast. The guide 
should !»*■ told to bring the visitor 
first of all to Bunglas, kl beautiful 

w." by which route ho pass* - 
( rri<j<<i> Head, ■•> fine promontory 
jutting suddenly out in splendid elifls 
which ai I perfection by 

this path. Prom hence is visible i 

of t£e many martello towers which 

aie placed in regular rotation round 

tip :. At Bunglas Point a view 

Lar magnificence bursts upon 

\ i« w tlL i of its kind i- pre* 

bly nut quailed in the British Id' 3, 

'I'll, lofty mountain of Sli< ■ I • - a-' 

on the land side no promj 

oificence that it presents 

in tli. - ... l" ing ia * act a mm 

2000 it. in height, 



84 



Houte 9. — Ennishillen to Kill yh eg 8. 



Ireland, 



descending to the water's edge in 
one superb escarpment — 

" around 
Whose caverned base the whirlpools and the 

waves 
Bursting and eddying irresistibly,. 
Rage and resound for ever." 

Shelley. 

And not only in its height is 
it so sublime, but in the glorious 
colours which are grouped in 
masses on its face. Stains of metals, 
green, amber, gold, yellow, white, 
red, and eveiy variety of shade 
are observed, particularly when seen 
under a bright sun, contrasting in a 
wonderful manner with the dark 
blue waters beneath. In cloudy or 
stormy weather this peculiarity is 
to a certain degree lost, though 
other effects take its place and 
render it even more magnificent, 
This range of sea-cliff extends with 
little variation all the way to Malin, 
though at nothing like the same 
altitude. Having feasted the eyes 
well with the beauties of the pre- 
cipices, the tourist should ascend, 
skirting the cliffs the whole way. 
Near the summit the escarpment 
and the land ascent approach so 
closely as to leave only a very pre- 
carious path, which is termed the 
One Man's Edge, and is looked on 
by the inhabitants of the neighbour- 
hood in the same light as the Striding 
Edge of Helvellyn or the Bwlch-y- 
Maen of Snowdon. However, it 
cannot be considered so dangerous as 
these, because a fall on the land 
side, though unpleasant, would not 
entail destruction, though with a 
sharp sea-wind blowing it is no 
easy work to keep one's footing. 
At the very summit are the remains 
of ancient oratories. The view is 
wondrous fine. Southwards is the 
whole coast of Sligo and Mayo, from 
Benbulben to the Stags of Broad- 
haven ; while further in the distance 
are faintly seen Xeohin, near Ballina, 
and 'it is also said; Oroagh Patrick, 
at Westport. Northward is a perfect 



sea of Donegal mountains, reaching 
as far as Slieve Snaght and Arrigal, 
with all the intervening ranges 
near Ardara, Glenties, and Dunglow 
(Bte. 10). In the descent the path 
made for the use of tourists should 
be followed, passing down a deep 
cleft in the mountain, at the bottom 
of which reposes a small tarn. 

A second excursion should be 
taken from Carrick to Ardara, to 
the magnificent glen of Geask, 
through which the road is carried 
across the highland moors to Ar- 
dara. It is, however, so abomi- 
nably bad, that it is almost im- 
passable, the writer of this notice 
having been obliged in many places 
to assist in carrying the car vi et 
armis, so that perhaps Glengeask 
will be more comfortably visited 
by proceeding from Killybegs to 
Ardara, and from thence making a 
special journey. 

A 3rd visit should by all means be 
paid to Glen, a district which tourists 
should not fail to explore, instead 
of stopping short at Slieve League, as 
most are content to do. It is 6 m. 
from Carrick. 

[At the 2nd m. a road turns off to 
the 1. to Malinmore, where very com- 
fortable accommodation can be ob- 
tained at a farmhouse kept by Miss 
Walker. The coast is very fine, 
although not on such a grand scale as 
at Glen, a little further on. There 
is a fixed lighthouse and coastguard 
station.] 

After traversing the high moor- 
ground the road suddenly descends 
or breaks into the Glen Valley, a 
remote highland glen of great beauty, 
although impressed with. a somewhat 
melancholy and sombre cast. A 
rather large population is scattered 
up and down the glen, at the bottom 
of which are the ch. and village of 
Glen Columbkill, or the Glen of 
St. Columb, for it was in this retired 
spot that the Saint Columb particu- 
larly loved to dwell. At a turn in 
the road the visitor will notice an 



[reland. 



Route 10, — Strabane to KiUybegs* 



8S 



taenl cross is fine preservation, 
1VI1. together with the antiqua- 
rian as well as legendary lore of the 
strict, has been carefully and zeal- 
ously Looked after by the llcv. V. 
tilth, the incumbent. The r< - 
• in- which arc accredited to St. 
dumb are the cross already alluded 
of the saint, his bed, 
1 his will, cl - to which an 
irmoufl pile of ston< - attests the 
numbers of devout pilgrims. In the 
t< nor of the i wall-. said t<> have 
been hi- l-« d, is a smooth stone, 
2 t" traditioD is said 
t.. have be< n plao d by Bt * lumb 
bo was blind of on< m the 

sot. • he might ool over- 

1 qu< noe oft! 

rri< d round the 
tercising 
a ]mwi rs <>f healing in 
r i-. - ..t' I. .id •■%-. -. The well-marked 
and the bed bet<»lcrns the 
rn that is held here. 
\ \. rv curious beli< t 1 exists in 
i ■ . viz.. that it was for a e<>n- 
the hiding-place of the 
•aid find his way 
ool an into another 

ontry. A- has been shown by 
Mi ■ < he ' Dublin Univer- 

Magazin.-,' the proofs of the 
rtainl] strong * m to 

in it- truth. A headland is 
nt« d <»nt where the prince u» d 
with his servant 
•ii of shi 
T. and cliffs abound in 

! fantastic Bha] 

;mij»ly repaid 
imble iboul 2 dl ovei 

//• • ■'. cipia 

which d 
ar ad ch an as a knifi . tm- 

n# it - • m-, 1 1 1# - it- 

down 

•'• W hl;uh- of 

w in the ( )n 

»f the 
• 
the cliffs tn 
tl. od 



'positions, particularly at Tormore, 
where the rocks are pitched aboul as 
though the ancient giants had been 
playing with them. The geologist 

will observe the effects of sea action 
in a most marked manner; instead 
of returning to Glen, he should 
keep along the coast to Loughros 
Beg Bay, and so to Ardara 'lite. 10) 
(Inn: Mullany's, had . The 20 in. 
from Teelin Bay to Loughros Bay 

18, as far as coa>t scenery goes, not 

to be excelled l>y any locality in 
Great Britain. 



ROUTE 10. 

0M STRABANE TO LETTERKENNY, 
GWEEDORE, DUNGLOW, ARDARA, 
AND KILLYBEGS. 

A mail-car Lee S1 rabane early in 
the morning for Letterkenny L6j del, 
returning hence in the evening. 

Crossing tin- hroad .-tieam of the 

Foyle by a Long and narrow bridge 
L2 arches, the traveller enters the 
Little town of Lifford Inn .- Erne . 
which, although the county town, 
i- bo email thai it s< i ms entirely 
made n]> of court-house and j.iil. 
Lifford was the scene <>f an obstini 
battle in 1600, between the English 
I >- rry under Nial < larbh 
1 1 1 1 m 1 1 and Bugs < )*Donell, and, 
though qow th( quiet s1 of vil 
was an important nuirket-tOWD in the 

f James J I >m hence the 

id nil r a hilly 0] OUnd, 



86 



Route 10. — Strabawe to Killybegs. Ireland. 



pleasantly diversified with occasional 
views over Strabane and the valley 
of the Foyle, while the traveller sees 
ahead of him the blue peaks of the 
Derryveagh Mountains. 2 m. the 
river Deel is crossed [on either side 
of which a road 1. is given off to 
Raplioe 5 m., passing through the 
village of Ballindrait, close to which 
are the woods of Cavanacor House 
(Col. Humphrey). Kaphoe is a plea- 
santly-situated little town, once 
famous for being the seat of a 
bishopric, which was, however, united 
to that of Deny in 1835. A 
monastery established here by St. 
Columb was afterwards converted 
into a bishopric by St. Eunan in the 
11th cent. From that time must be 
dated the commencement of the ca- 
thedral, a plain cruciform building, 
with a square tower of the last 
cent., which is also the date of the 
transepts added by Bishop Pooley in 
1702. The ruined episcopal residence 
stands near the cathedral. At Bel- 
tany, on the summit of a hill 2 m. 
from Raplioe, is a stone circle 150 
yds. in circumference, formed by 67 
upright stones, on the E. side of 
which is an opening formed by 2 
larger ones. " The name Beltany is 
supposed to be a corruption of Baal 
tinne, ' the fire of Baal,' intimating a 
spot where that deity was particularly 
worshipped in Ireland, and having 
the same etymology in Gaelic as the 
Bultani tree burned at Midsum- 
mer." — Hall. Raplioe is well placed 
at the foot of the great range of 
Donegal Mountains, as they begin to 
decline into the lowlands, and many 
fine views may be obtained in the 
neighbourhood from Mullafin 954 ft., 
and from the Herd's Seat, Avhich 
rises over the village of Convoy. 
Some 7 or 8 m. higher up, the Deel 
takes its rise in Lough Deel, a small 
lake at the summit of the Cark 
Mountain 1205 ft.]. The traveller 
will soon discover that he is in the 
head-quarters of the flax country, 
especially if it happen to be in the 



latter end of August or beginning of 
September. All the little streams 
are dammed up for the purpose of 
soaking the flax, whilst the fields are 
strewn with regularly laid bundles, 
more pleasing to the eye than the 
nose, which is offended by a fresh 
burst of odour every 100 yards. (Iu- 
trod., p. xxxv.) 

11 J m. a road on rt. branches off 
to the village of Manor Cunningham, 
and soon Lough Swilly comes into 
view. As it appears from its lower 
end, it is tame and bare, although 
the hills which loom in the distance 
give promise of better scenery. 

16 J m. Letterkenny (Hotel: He- 
garty's, very comfortable), a pleasant 
little town of one long street oc- 
cupying the side of a hill and over- 
looking a large expanse of country. 
With the exception of the eh., on the 
summit of the hill, the poorhouse, 
and a new clock-tower, lately erected, 
Letterkenny itself contains nothing 
of interest, but it can be recom- 
mended as good head-quarters for 
those tourists who wish to explore 
the hill country. There are some 
nice residences in the neighbourhood, 
as Ballymacool (J. R. Boyd, Esq.), 
and Gortlee (^Capt. Patterson). 

Conveyances. — To Strabane daily. 
To Dunfanaghy daily. To London- 
derry daily. 

Distances. — Strabane, 16 J m. ; Dun- 
fanaghy, 22 ; Gweedore, 22 ; Dun- 
glow, 30; Derryveagh, 17 J ; Kilmacre- 
nan, 7£ ; Church town, 9 ; Rathmel- 
ton, 7 ; Raphoe, 8 J ; Doocharry Bridge, 
22. 

Excursions. — 

1. Kilmacrenan. 

2. Gar tan Lough. 

From Letterkenny the road tra- 
verses an open hilly country, di- 
versified with distant views of hill, 
river, and lake. [At 20 J m. a road on 
rt. is given off to Milford, 6 J m., pass- 
ing 2 J m. rt. Bally arr House, the seat 
of Lord George Hill, to whom the 
whole district which the traveller is 



LAND. 



Route 10. — KilmacTi nan. 



87 



ut to visit La under deep obliga- 

I oesing a small river at Drum- 
in r B _■■. the road runs parallel 
th L F '. a sheel o\' water 

about H m. in length, on the B. Bide 
►und rises to 500 ft. 
/ Kir. 11 is a small 
sting only for its pn 
the beautiful scenery of 

M :' J B v.] 

m. BTtZfw w very 

■ettily situated in a mountain val- 

•h the Lannan 

rushes down in picturesque 

A.s the road descends into 

lie touris - distant 

rt of Lough Fern, and, 

ably I i it, the indent* 1 

I .1- iiall.i Mountains, 

int. >rv< n it and 

1 Sw the rains of 

.m Abb y, founded by St 

ider and 

r, lighted by 

the top e 

ity i( raai - otherbuild- 

led by an enclosure. 

been 
i the ! wan 

1 has ov< r the door I 

t taken 

is the 

/ which the ( )'l ><•- 

- inaugurated by 

■ 
g I >luml>." /. 
I » I-. . I . in.; 

th- 
m i Salt, 

ion o L to 

and - a wild 

1 district round which 
_'•• 1 hill- Iwirin to 

ipa 1<. i tedii 

hi 

the blue 
/. which, with 

. 

br - hill-bi U i. 



[At 29} m. a moorland road 
branches off to Gartan Lough and 
Church Hill, 4 m. What appears 
from the road to be one lake is 
really 2 sheets of water, the upper 
one, Lough Agibbon, being separated 
by a narrow neck of land from Lough 
Gartan, on the B. shore of which is 
Bellville, b Beat of J. Stewart, Esq. 
Trollius Europaaus flourishes on th< 
lak 

On the si.le of the upper lake is a 
ruined chapel, still used as the burial- 
place of the < i'Donells. It was built 
on the spot where St. Oolumb is said 
to have been born in 521. Ili> name 
was originally Orimthan, afterwards 
changed to Oolumb, from the sim- 
plicity of his disposition Oolumb 
;i dove. •• Be was <>t* royal extraction, 
being, by the paternal side, descended 
through Oonall Gulban) from Niall, 
while ins mother Athena was of an 
illustrious house of Leinster." 

From hence the traveller c 
return by a different road to Letter- 
kenny, 9 m., descending into tl 
valley of the Swilly at Foxhall (J. 
( lambei [. , passing afterwards 

the ( Hebe of Doon Rev. I >r. Kings- 
mill , Rockhill J. V. Stewart, Esq. , 
and Ballymacool (J. B. Boyd, Esq. , 
the last 2 demesnes Lying on opposite 

haul;- of the river.] 

Th - aery from this point to 
( .1* av< agh resembles much of the 
8 tttish Highlands large < xtensr 
moors shut in on all sides by hills, 

in- of them rising to a consideral 
height. For Borne distance it would 
appear that the way li« s up a broad 
depression running N '. an I B., but 
d turn of the road rev< ale 
the si erular summit of Muckish 
•j l. '7 it., which, from its precipitous 

sarpment,^ i ma higher than it rea 
is, I tr.iv. lh t is now fairly 

amidst the mountain ranges, whi< 
when the d rising, or I 

cloud shadows floating gently by, 
charming, but which, when overtaken 
by I Donegal •• Smiii," he will 



88 



Route 10. — Strabane to Killybegs. 



Ireland. 



or bleaker road in Great Britain, or 
one so open to storms. 

The geological composition of the 
mountains is granite, having a gneis- 
sic structure, the quartz lodes of 
which occasionally gleam with a 
brightness all the more dazzling 
from the contrast with the dark 
masses. 

32 m. the Owencarrow river is 
crossed as it enters Lough Beagh or 
Veagh. A little further on there is a 
very charming glimpse of the lake, 
a long narrow piece of water entirely 
shut in by mountains, which, espe- 
cially at the lower end, descend pre- 
cipitously to the very brink. On the 
1. bank, looking downwards, are Al- 
tachoastia (1737 ft.), and Kinnaveagh 
(1270), and on the opposite side is 
Keamnacally (1220), a portion of 
the great range of the Derryveagh 
Mountains, the highest point of 
which is Dooish (2147). It would 
be well for the tourist to consult 
his map while journeying down 
this pass, in order that he may 
understand the physical arrange- 
ment of this part of Donegal. It 
appears that the country between 
Lough S willy and the sea is traversed 
by several ranges of Mils all running 
in nearly the same direction, viz. from 
N E. to S.W. Commencing near 
Lough Swilly, we have the Glenalla 
hills, which are separated by the 
valley of the Lannan from those 
which overlook and are parallel to 
Gartan Lough. Westward of this 
lake are the Glendowan Mountains, 
intervening between it and Glen- 
veagh. Then come the Derryveagh 
Mountains just spoken of, divided by 
a considerable mountain valley from 
the Arrigal group, which abruptly 
slope towards the sea. There are, 
therefore, a succession of ranges, 
with more or less narrow glens be- 
tween, all having the same definite 
arrangement — a feature which will 
enable the traveller to understand 
his whereabouts with great ease. 

[A road turning off by the police- 



barracks runs down the glen along 
the bank of the lake to Glenveagh, 
the mountain residence of J. Adair, 
Esq., who allows free passage to the 
tourist over his property. Indeed, 
one of the most splendid excursions 
in Ireland is to be found in Glen- 
veagh, passing through it to the 
Poisoned Glen. Noble cliffs, covered 
with brushwood, in which the golden 
eagle still build, rise from the water's 
edge to the height of 1200 ft., and 
with the thick growth of natural 
wood, make Glenveagh a formidable 
rival to the beauties even of Kil- 
larney. The scenery at the great 
waterfall of Astellion is particularly 
striking. If the excursionist does 
not wish to proceed to Gweedore by 
the Poisoned Glen, he may continue 
through the pass to Doocharry 
Bridge (p. 91), where he should 
previously order a car to meet him 
to take him either to Dunglow or 
Glenties, in whichever direction he 
was going. This precaution is ne- 
cessary, as there is no inn or any 
accommodation at Doocharry Bridge. 
The distance from Owencarrow is 
15 m.]. Quitting the valley of Glen 
Veagh, the road winds round the 
base of Kingarrow (1068 ft.), and 
turns to the 1. to enter the last 
mountain valley. [A road straight 
on passes immediately under Muckish 
at the Gap, and runs to Cross-roads 
7 m. (p. 98).] This is the valley of 
the Calabber, which joins the Owen- 
carrow, and is singularly wild and 
desolate. On the rt. rises Muckish 
(the pig's back), remarkable for its 
peculiar shape and fine escarpment ; 
next to it are Crocknalaragagh 
(1554 ft.), Aghla Beg (1860), and 
Aghla More (1916), while on 1. is 
the Dooish range. The botanist will 
find on Muckish Saxifraga serrata- 
folia and Melampyrum pratense. 
Peering loftily over the very end 
of the valley is the singular and 
beautiful summit of Arrigal (2466 
ft.), with its glistening seams of 
quartz. As the traveller ascends 



1 [.VXD. 



Route 10.— Ghoeedore, 



89 



the watershed, he gains 

charming peeps o\' Glen Lough in 

tin- foreground, with Mulroy Bay in 

tli. nee, while near the summit 

level the attention is arrested on the 

rt. by Alt in Lough, a dark Bavage- 

tarn in a deep gap betw< en 

A_ da More and Arrigal, both of 

i mountains slope down to its 

a w ith greal rapidity. At 37J m, 

the w;ii. rshe I is gained, and a \'u iw 

- up which is hardly to be but 

-sod in Great Britain. The road 

wii y the side of a very deep 

ley, through which the Owen- 

l mi the rt is A rrigal 

M ■ sing up with Btarthng 

>ruptn< - from this 

side the regular that makes it 

bo - among its brethren. 

I unit, indeed, it pre- 
aer a - i far 
scarcely to allow room for a per- 
8on to lie acrose it. ( m tl - a 

I amphith . of mountains, 

in irregular m s» - 

and urinal in tin- lofty, 

led hi SI anacht (the 

II - it. . A deep 
known by the name of the 

T Glen, runs up in a cul-de- 

8a< I of the moun- 

gnarded I fceep precipic 
which ;i small stream giant 
to join the I >• \ lin rii 
it falls into Dunlewy 
bich, together with Lougn 
\ • of wat< r 1 m. 

th, filling up the valley in 

»t' tin- sea than a tn-sli- 

opposil ok 

I ! ' I )iiiil« w v 

II ••>■ G. F. B I \" rched 

a knoll over the 1. rad 

by v The aitua- 

Utit'ul, t: 

the 

M Kn.<sell, to 
>n, w< re 

rter 
the - I for the 

.sent "i;. a the b 



is a pretty oh., with glebe-houe 

schools, and other pleasanl tokens 
of civilization. This charming route 
deserves to be more known, for 
there is scarcely any scenery in 
Ireland that surpasses it. From 
hence the road keeps rapidly down 
the side of Arrigal until it read 
the Olady river, the outlet of the 
lakes, and keeps along its hank to 

45} ni. Gweedore, where the 
traveller will be surprised to find 
a comfortable and well-managed 
hotel, from whence he can make 

mrsions through this picturesque 
district The name of Lord George 
Hill, the proprietor of the estate, 
is so thoroughly identified with 
that of Gweedore, that it will not 
be amiss to detail a few facts con- 
cerning him. He first settled in this 
part of the country in 1S38, pur- 
chasing 23,000 acres in the parish of 
Tullaghobegly, which he found in a 
state of disfo as and want bo great that 
it became the subject of a parliament- 
ary inquiry. Although there appeared 
to have heen a considerable amount 
of exaggeration in the statements 

made, enough remained to show that 

famine, pestilence, and ignorance were 
lamentably prevalent. The prospects 
of the landlord were far from en- 
couraging, 00 account of the sorry 
oature of the ground, the severity of 
the climate, the difficulty of collect- 
j his rent, but, more than all, 
the extraordinary though miserable 

u m of Rundale, which was uni- 
versal through the district. By this 
arrangement a parcel of land v\ 
divided and subdivided into an in- 

lible number of small holding 
in which the tenant very likely held 
his proportion or Bhan in :'•<> or W 
different plao s, which had no fern 
or walls whatever to mark them. The 
utfc infusion and hopelessm 98 of 

h tenanl being able to know his 
own land, much more to plant or 
look it. may w< 11 be imagined. 

A ly to land was tin m 

applied, but also I re portable 



90 



Route 10. — Strabane to Killybegs. 



Ireland. 



property. "In an adjacent island, 
3 men were concerned in one horse ; 
but the poor brute was rendered use- 
less, as the unfortunate foot of the 
supernumerary long remained unshod, 
none of them being willing to ac- 
knowledge its dependency, and ac- 
cordingly it became quite lame. 
There were many rows on the 
subject ; at length one of the ' Com- 
pany ' came to the mainland and 
called on a magistrate for advice, 
stating that the animal was entirely 
useless now ; that he had not only kept 
up decently his one hoof at his own 
expense, but had shod this 4th foot 
twice to boot." — Facts from Gweedore. 
With much perseverance and many 
struggles, Lord George Hill gradually 
changed the face of things. Though 
not without meeting a fearful amount 
of prejudice and opposition, he 
overcame and altered the Rundale 
system, improved the land, built 
schools, a ch., and a large store at 
Bunbeg, made roads, established a 
post-office, and, what is perhaps of 
more importance to the tourist, an 
hotel, which is comfortable, well- 
managed, and reasonable. This is 
a capital place both for the fisher- 
man and the general visitor ; the 
latter should by all means make 
an excursion to Arrigal, taking a car 
to the foot of the mountain, which 
can be ascended in about 2 hrs. 
"Midway up there is an immense 
belt of broken stones, unrelieved by a 
vestige of vegetation. The mountain 
narrows towards the top to a mere 
rugged path of a 'few inches in width, 
with an awful abyss on either side." 
The view from the summit is mag- 
nificent, extending over a perfect sea 
of mountains, as far as Knocklayde, 
near Ballycastle, in the county An- 
trim, and Benbulben and Bengore 
near Sligo, while the whole coast 
for miles lies at one's feet. The 
fishing on the Clady and the fresh- 
water loughs is very good. If to- 
lerably late in the season he will get 
sea-trout and some salmon ; " almost 



any flies will do, something with red 
or black hackle, and a mixture with 
hare's ear in it." 

The geology of Donegal consists 
mainly of gneiss and mica-slate, tra- 
versed in a N.E. direction by an axis 
of granite, containing the mineral 
called oligoclase, whose occurrence in 
Great Britain has been lately noticed. 
The investigations of Prof. Haugh- 
ton and Mr. Scott show a close rela- 
tion between the granites of Norway 
and Donegal. 

Distances. — Dunglow, 13 m. ; Dun- 
fanaghy, 17 ; Bunbeg, 4 ; Dunlewy, 4 ; 
Cross Roads, 10 ; Magheraclogher, 5. 

Conveyances. — A mail-car daily to 
Dunfanaghy and Letterkenny. 

Excursions. — 

1. Arrigal. 

2. Dunlewy and Slieve Snaght. 

3. Bunbeg. 
From Gweedore the road lies 

through a wild and desolate district, 
broken here and there by a few 
scattered hamlets with their little 
patches of green conspicuous in the 
grey mountain scenery. Inland the 
lofty ranges occasionally peer over 
the moorlands, while seaward the 
view is broken by numberless inlets 
and creeks, beyond which the breakers 
are seen dashing over the cliffs of the 
numerous islands that dot the coast 
in such profusion in this district, 
which is known as the Bosses. The 
principal of these islands, generally 
inhabited for a portion of the year 
only, are Inishfree, Owey, Gula, and 
Oruit. 

At 48J m. the Gweedore river is 
crossed at a spot where a combina- 
tion of rock and waterfall offers charm- 
ing scenery ; and at 51 J m. is the 
creek of the Anagarry stream, en- 
livened by a police-barrack. On the 
coast at Mulladergh, near Anagarry, 
is a rock known as Spanish Bock, from 
the occurrence of a wreck of a Spanish 
vessel, supposed to have belonged to 
the Armada'. Within the memory of 
inhabitants of the parish, a number of 
well-finished brass guns were fished 



. 



LAND. 



7? AiXe 10. — Dunglow, 



91 



up, but unfortunately got into the 

li.-, mie travelling tinkers, by 

whose advice they were spee lily 

d up and sold to themselves, of 

fabulous profit. 

[56 in. vi. a road branches off to 

-hiu Lodge, the residence of Mrs. 

Pi ( !] >se off the coast Is But- 

■'. where, during the Lord 

1 eutenanc) of the Duke of Rut- 

i«l in 1785, I H. was expended 

in making a military station and 
ul emporium tor this part ot the 
count I sand has now aln 

ly buried I Btly enterprise 

\ • Bnri P »rt, near 

in, thi ' onyngham, 

proprietor of this i state, has 

lilt a 1 

\ in this 

■/. which must 

■ 1 with those of 

ff the i of 

I; size, 

- nothing of in 

soj iy.] 

Burton Port La the iso- 

ruin i D w Castle, after- 

i it. 

- in. Du igl dreary-look] 

cm the Hide oi a hill which 

lier sharply from the water's 

1 • inn is very j r ; but a 

! I tween 3 and 
4 i - I low is the head- 

i . . v. hich the torn 

tliough it is no 
an 
1 cm view <<■ 

T< mph crone, with its 
id inh ' . On 
Looking Qw< 
ba 1 B Angular landslip, called 

Bristh 
, rocks 
ken and shiv< red t<> 
-—in fuct,m tnized on a pro- 

lly 
The di 
•sions, I 

wide above and 
some pla 

:id 



are serrated." — Donegal wrist 
There are also numerous caves and 
natural arehes all round this bit 
of coast. In the open Loughs near 
Dunglow are quantities of fine yellow 
trout rising up to 5 lbs. The h< si 
sport is found in the Meenmore 
Lough, 2 in. to the N.W., near the 

old barracks. There are also lots of 
wild fowl and seal shooting to be 
had. At Lough A mi r<-, 4 ni. N.E., 
there is work ror the geologist. "The 

environs consist of niiea slide with 

rse granular dolomite : on one 
Bpot will be found basilar Ldiocra 
and epidote crystallized in 6-sidi I 
prisms, with common garnet of a 
reddish-brown colour." — Giesecl 

Distana 8. Letterkenny, 58 i 
Doocharry Bridge, 8; Glenties, IS; 

eedore, 13. 
For the next 7 or 8 ni. the way 
lies through an untameably wi I 
country, but with such constant and 
shifting panoramas of mountains that 
the attention is never fatigued. The 
ranges, at the base of which the road 
is carried, are those of the Crohy 
hills, with their numerous shouldi 
and outliers. Farther hack are the 
Dunlewy Mountains, Blievesnacht, 
Crockatarrive, Arrigal, and, as we 
get further s.. the < Hendowan ai I 

I terryveagh chains. In fact, if t 

ather is fine — and it all depen a 
on that there is scarce such another 
mountain view in the kingdom. 67 m, 
;it the brow of b steep hill, the tra- 
veller all at once Looks over the deep 

glen of the Gweebarra river and ap 

the ( hveiiwee, until it IS lost in the 

heights of the < rlendowan Mountai 
A road runs an the pass, through 
Den ; ■ i agh ana emerges at t Hen- 
veagh Bridge p. R8). The view, 
the tourist descends the zigzag road, 

i \ ery high order, and assun 
an additional charm in contrast v. i 
the dreary moor that he hi 
ve: The ( iwo l 

I I • ■■• , ry /'/ dgt . '■■ her< I : i 

;i fishing 
hut no inn, which is a ; 



92 



Route 10. — Sfrabane to Killybegs. 



Ireland. 



stages are long and fatiguing, and the 
scenery in the neighbourhood would 
be quite sufficient to attract visitors. 
The G-weebarra is a fine salmon 
fishery, and belongs to Mr. Daniel of 
Donegal. The distance from Doo- 
charry to Glenveagh Bridge is 11m. 
A road runs across the hills to join 
the Fintown road, but a new one 
keeping along the S. bank of the 
Gweebarra, which soon opens into a 
noble estuary, is easier and more 
generally followed. In about 3 m. 
it leaves the river and ascends the 
hills again, joining the Fintown and 
Donegal road at or near the 74th in. 
Near this point a short road from 
Dunglow falls in, but it is im- 
practicable for cars, on account of 
the necessity of crossing the Gwee- 
barra at Ballynacarrick Ferry. There 
is a fine view, looking back over 
Crohy headland and the country 
toward Dunglow, while an equally 
fine one opens forward over the ranges 
of hills that intervene between the 
traveller and Donegal. In front of 
him, although, from the turnings of 
the road, it is difficult to keep one's 
bearings, are Knockrawer (1475 ft.), 
Aghla (1953), and Scraigs (1406), at 
the foot of which lie the mountain 
lough of Finn and the village of Fin- 
town (Ete. 8), in which district' some 
lead-mines are now being worked. 
From the junction of the 2 roads the 
distance to Fintown is 6 m., and to 
Stranorlar 22 m. The watershed has 
now been reached, and the road 
rapidly descends a broad mountain 
vale to 

77 m. Glentieg (Inn : Devitt's), 
a small town, the situation of 
which, at the numerous converging 
glens, is its best point. It has a 
grand-looking union-house, which 
adds much to the distant beauty of 
the place. Good fishing is to be 
obtained here either in the Shallo- 
gan river, down whose vale we have 
been descending, or the Owenea, 
which rises in Lough Ea, a tarn 
some 7 m. in the mountains to the 



W. It is preserved by Lord Mount- 
charles and Col. Whyte. " The angler 
in the latter river will have sport if 
he is on at the time of a spate, but, 
as it rises and falls very quickly, it 
would be hardly worth his while to 
go there on a chance." 

Distances.— Ardara, 6 m.; Naran, 
8J ; Doocharry, 10 ; Dunglow by the 
ferry, 14 ; Killybegs, 14 ; Donegal, 
18.' 

[If the tourist is not pressed for 
time, he may go on to Ardara by 
Naran, instead of by the direct roacl. 
For the first few miles the way lies 
at the foot of the hills, affording fine 
views of Gweebarra Bay. 8 J m. 
Naran, is a primitive little fishing- 
village, pleasantly situated opposite 
the island of Inishkeel, on which the 
antiquary will find a couple of ruined 
churches. The hills which rise just 
behind the village should be ascended 
for the sake of the magnificent view, 
particularly in the direction of Ar- 
dara, where the coast-scenery of the 
cliffs is of the highest order. The 
whole of the promontory between 
Naran and Ardara is worth exploring 
for the sake of the remains. On 
Dunmore Hill, a headland 1 m. to 
the W., there are 10 old forts. " It 
was probably the grand signal-station, 
so that a signal made there would 
alarm the rest." To the S. of Naran 
is Lough Boon, in which there is an 
island, containing the "Bawan," a 
round fort, a massive circular build- 
ing, which occupies the whole of the 
area. In former years, before the lake 
was partially drained, it appeared as 
if it was actually built out of the 
water. Close by is Lough Birroge, 
on which is another similar remain. 
About 1 m. to the S.W. is Kiltooris 
Lough, on the banks of which is 
Eden House, the residence of G. 
Hamilton, Esq. A rather large island 
rises from the centre, on which are 
the scanty ruins of a castle belonging 
to the O'Boyles. From Naran to 
Ardara the distance is 7 m. About 
halfway at Kilclooney there is a 



Ireland. 



Route ll.« — Londonderry to Gicccdore. 



93 



cromlech.] The direct road from 
Glentiee is carried over a more level 
Country than we have hitherto been 
traversing. [At 7:> m. 1. a road is 
given off to Donegal, which fells into 
thr Killybegs and Donegal route 
between [nvei Bridge ami Mount- 
oharles Rte. i> .] Directly after- 
irdfl it runs alongside of the Owen- 

ker river, which rises amongsi 
the heights Binbane [1493 ft. , 

i fella into an inlet of the - 

-<• by 

i pronounced with 

tic nt en the last syllable — 

Hotel: Molls stnpid little 

ith nothing whatever of in- 

mely pretty situa- 

: steeply i b- 

A i dan who is 

b ait his accommoda- 

will find it :. goo 1 Btartu _- 

nt fr m whence to explore the 

- of the roast round by 

1 s, I more, and (den ^Rte. 

1 : »in ti cnliarity of the 

tion mi' Ardara all ti.- r a Is that 

;1 nut mj' it -viz. 1<> Inver, Killy- 

bege l< trrii-k — are carried through 

so many gaps in tin- hills, the finest 

ing that which goes 

through tin- pass of Glengeask, one 

of th»- wild, -t and Bteepest glens in 

in which the high« 

I b very bad one is 

til- i ft Close to the town is 

Woo Ihill, the i ace ofMajoi V b- 

■t. 

/' • < irriek, 13m.; Glen, 

I ."i i»v i-M.-i'l, but b} ' about 17 ; 
Llybegs, I": [nver, 1". 
I 'in Ardara the tonrisl travi i 
a wild mountain road, passing between 
tl -lit- of Altnandewon L652 

ft . an 1 Muln 1 L57 , 87 ni.l. is 

M ulmofi -• I [i >ua . B "'li afterwards 

ched, and the 

to id ncLs the valley of the Oily 

er to 93 m. Killyl egs Etti . 9). 

// . Goalie's ; both com- 

•le. 



ROUTE 11. 

FROM LONDONDERRY TO GWEEDORE, 
THROUGH DUNFANAGHY. 

The most duvet route lies through 
Li tterkenny, from whence a car starts 
for Dunfenaghy and Gweedore every 
morning; but as the finesi scenery of 
thi> district principally lies on the 
LSt, it will be better for the tourist 

to proceed to Rathmelton, to which 
there are 3 ways of going. 1. Tin- 
road from Londonderry follows the 1. 

bank of the Poyle, passing Poyle Hill, 
at which point it branches off to the 
rt., skirting a range of high ground, of 
which Greenan Hill is the most ele- 
vated point. 

6 m. rt. are Portlough, a small 
tarn, with an island and a ruined 
tower, and Castle Forward (T. Fergu- 
son, Esq.), situated at the corner of 
Blanket Nook, a pill given off by 
Lough Bwilly, which is crossed by a 
ferry as it begins to narrow at Fort 
Stewart Ferry. On the < >] tposite bank 
are the Beats of Fort Stewart ( Sir 
James Stewart, Bart.; and SheUfield 
V Stewart, Esq.). 

13 m. Rathmelton ( Irms i Brown's; 
( loyle e . 

: 1. Should the traveller prefer going 

round all the way by the road, he 
will turn off to the 1. at Newtown 
Cuningham, and follow the E. bank 
of the Bwilly river to 

\'i . m. the village of Manor Cun- 
ingham. 

18 m. Letterkenny [Hotel, Hegar- 
ty's, comfortable will be found in 
Bte. 10. 

'I'll, road from bene.' to Rathmelton 
is v. rv pretty, passing 1. ( tori lee 
T. I'M!, rson, Esq Bam Hill 

b\ v. -1. [rwin . I itl< Wray Capt. 
Mansfield . and OastL Grow ( •. 
\v i E - (. . 
!.• aving on I. the Glebe Ho 
I the tourist reaches 



91 



Haute 11. — Londonderry to Gweedore. Ireland. 



26 m. Rathmelton. 3. By rail to 
Farland, from whence a steamer 
runs across to Rathmelton.] As the 
greater portion of the route from Let- 

kenny is over elevated- ground, the 
traveller gets beautiful views of the 
hills in the neighbourhood of Inch 
and Buncrana, on the opposite side 
of the Lough. Rathmelton is prettily 
situated on the Lannan, a picturesque 
mountain stream that flows past Kil- 
macrenan into Lough Fern, emerging 
from it under the same name, only 
a few yards from its point of entrance. 
Like the Bann, it was at one time 
famous for its pearls. 

The principal objects of interest near 
Rathmelton are the ivy-covered ruins of 
Fort Stewart, built at the commence- 
ment of the 17th cent. ; the demesne 
of Fort Stewart (Sir J. Stewart, Bart.) 
facing the Ferry ; and a little higher 
up, the ruins of Killydonnell Abbey, 
a Fianciscan monastery, founded in 
the 16th cent, by an O'Donnell, and 
a chapel of ease to the ecclesiastical 
establishment of Kilmacrenan. By 
an inquisition made by James I., it 
was found that the revenues amounted 
to the magnificent sum of 3s. There 
is a legend about the bell of the 
Abbey of Killydonnell, to the effect 
that it was carried off by some ma- 
rauders from Tyrone, who embarked 
on the Lough with the bell in their 
V( sseL A storm arose, and the sacri- 
legious robbers were drowned ; to 
commemorate which act of retributive 
justice, the bell is heard to ring once 
every 7 years at midnight. A legend 
with a similar finale is prevalent at 
Tintagel on the Cornish coast. 

[From Rathmelton the tourist may 
proceed to Kilmacrenan, and there 
catch the car for Dunfanaghy, or 
proceed by Gartan Lough to Dun- 
lewy. The road to Kilmacrenan is 
highly picturesque, and follows the 
rapid mountain stream of the Lan- 
nan, which is crossed at Tullyhall, 
near Claragh (Mrs. Watt) and Bally- 
arr, the seat of Lord George Hill 
(p. 86).] 



Distances from Rathmelton. — Let- 
terkenny, 8 m. ; Deny, 13 ; Fort Stew- 
art Ferry, 3 ; Rathmullan, 6 J ; Kil- 
macrenan, 6£ ; Milford, 4 ; Killy- 
donnell, 4. 

Excursions. — 

1. Rathmullan. 

2. Milford. 

3. Kilmacrenan. 

The road to Rathmullan runs 
alongside the estuary of the Lannan, 
and the W. shore of Lough S willy, 
and about half-way crosses the em- 
bouchure of the Glenalla river that 
rises in the high grounds between 
the Lough and Mulroy Bay, and 
flows past Glenalla House (T. Hart, 
Esq.) and woods, which are very 
pretty features in the landscape. 
Further down are the woods of Holly- 
mount, and 

19 J m. the little town of Bath- 
mullan. (Inn, Henderson's, good). 
" Close to it are the ruins of a priory of 
Carmelite friars, and a castle adjoining, 
formerly occupied by the M'Swyne 
Faugh, the possessor of Fanait. The 
eastern part, used as a ch. until a 
late period, exhibits considerable 
traces of pointed Gothic architecture. 
Over the E. window there still re- 
mains a figure of St. Patrick. The 
architecture of the remainder of the 
building is of the Elizabethan age, a 
great part of it having been rebuilt 
by Bishop Knox, cf the diocese of 
Raphoe, in 1618, on obtaining pos- 
session of the manor of Rathmullan 
from Tmiogh Oge M'Swyne." — Lord 
G. Hill. In the churchyard is a 
monument to the memory of the 
Hon. W. Pakenham, Captain of the 
' Saldanha,' wrecked off this coast in 
1811. 

Rathmullan occupies a sheltered 
position at the foot of a range of hills 
that intervene between Lough Swiliy 
and Mulroy Bay, of which the highest 
point is Crochanaffrin, 1137 ft. It is 
worth while making an excursion 
either up this hill or Croaghan, 1010 
ft., which is nearer ; for the extra- 
ordinary view over the inlets and in- 



I 



Bi uk 11.— Fanei—Milford. 



o; 



•> 






\ this singular coasl will ! 
the traveller more in mind 
\ • n _;ian fiords than British 

[Before leaving RathmuUan for 

M the tourisl who is fond of 

ry should take the 
xploring the penin- 
r t or Fanait, the aneienl 
•• the sept of tl\«' ( >'Bres- 
( ■ . 3rd son 
I '.! ( iulban, s.>n of Nial of the 

who ] ss< 3» '1 Tir (''Mi- 
ll. "' DJ3, h \ \vr. 
1 by tlic M'Swyn< s, 
■ 1 themselves and built 
Physically Bpeak- 
i- i: • 3 ahori 

3s the 
h mill Inn rai 
i ; the K ckalla I li 
hcigl L200 ft.: 

till more northi rly group! 

cl run- along the shi n 
Swilly at - Knockalla 

I s tin Knorkalla Hills 

i. rising precipitously 

* 

return and i 

this <1 ' apply 

worth 

I r the of the 

i v> . 1 the dis- 

I '. r Buncrana 

! ish- 

I; tlimullan House, 

! Esq.; 

'i i Wray ; and 

! - which 

- 

! 1 1 and 

i , Bath ry, 

M ! 
L) 1< rably 

rmed of 

■ 

! 
U i I i 

C of • 



narrow inlets of Mulroy is the tower 
of Moross Oastle, the mosl im- 
portant of the fortn ef the 
M'Swynes. Near this poinl the main 
road again crosses the peninsula, be* 
tween the 2 northerly range s of hills, 
reappears on Lough Bwilly at Bal- 
Lymastooeker Bay, the scene of the 
wreck of the ' Saldanha 'in 1S1 1, and 
from thence skirts the coasl to Doagh, 
one of the most primitive native 
villages that it is possible to conceive. 
The coasl so aery here is particularly 
fine, especially al the S< ven Archi 
b si ries of marine caves accessible by 
land. NeartheBrown George Bock 
is b splendid natural arch, SO ft. in 
height. 

L8 m. Panad Head is the extreme 
westerly boundary of Lough Swilly, 
the entrance of which between the 
2 heads, Fanad and Dunaff, is just 
1 in. This dangerous ecu -* is pro- 

cted at this point by a Lighthouse, 
90 ft. above high water, consisting of 9 
lamps, showing a deep red seawards, 
and a fixed white light towards the 
harbour. Should the tourist he a 
pedestrian, he should, instead of re- 
turning by the same road, work his 
way to the B.W., and cross one of the 
narrow i of Mulroy by b ferry 

between Leatbeg and Lower Town, 
:n i* I thus | d ( ithi r to (den, 

through Carrickart, or Milford.] 

7 in. Milford Rte. 1G , formerly 

known by the euphonious name of 

B Uynagolloglough, is most charm- 

\y plao d nearly equidifltanl from 

1 of Mulroy 15:iy and Lough 

I ' rn : the latter b fine sh< el of water 

I in. in circum nd \'< <\ by the 

l . onan. The scenery n< ar Milford 

ba m II worl h • sploi ing, particularly 

on • I tanlin i iver, a BmaU stream 

- through 'i v mantic gl 

Mulroy, forming in its < a 

fine waterfall, known ae r < foland 

I . p, 

< esing r.'inlin B id the 

1 closely t 

W, M Lroy, I' i ping on 1. 

t bills tl 



9G 



Monte 11. — Londonderry to Gweedore. 



Ireland. 



Lough Glen and Shcephaven. But 
as the round is scarcely interesting 
enough to warrant it, the tourist 
should cut across by a mountain 
road, and join the route from Kilma- 
crenan. 

Glen is a small village at 
the head of Glen Lough, a long 
narrow sheet of water running 
from X.E. to S.W., connected by a 
short stream, called the Lackagh 
river, with the Sheephaven, and 
drained by the Owen Carrow, which 
runs hence to Glenveagh (Ete. 10^. 

The student of physical geography 
cannot fail to be struck with the pa- 
rallel directions of the great valleys 
of Donegal, together with their re- 
spective lakes and streams, almost all, 
without exception, from the N.E. to 
the S.W. It would seem as though 
some tremendous force, acting from 
the opposite direction, had been ex- 
erted simultaneously over the whole 
district, and had probably been the 
cause of the singular fiords which, it 
will be noticed, always have the same 
direction inland. 

An excursion should be made from 
Glen to visit Lough Salt, 3 m. to the 
S., and on the road to Kilmacrenan 
— one of the most peculiar and ro- 
mantic localities in the country. It 
is situated at the height of 1000 ft. 
above the sea, and at the foot of 
Lough Salt mountain, which rises 
perpendicularly on the E. to a height 
of 1546 ft. It is to this fact that it 
owes its name— Lough-agus- Alt, " the 
Lough and the Crag," being corrupted 
into Lough Salt. " Ascending the 
steep sides of the .Kilmacrenan Moun- 
tain, we at length reached the top of 
the mountain, and suddenly turning 
the point of a cliff that jutted out 
and checked the road, we came 
abruptly into a hollow something 
like the crater of an extinct volcano, 
which was filled almost entirely by a 
lovely lake, on the rt. hand of which 
rose the high peak of the mountain — 
so bare, so serrated, so tempest-worn, 
so vexed at the storms of the Atlantic, 



that, if matter could suffer, we might 
suppose that this lofty and precipi- 
tous peak presented the appearance 
of material endurance. Here were 
the brown heath, grey lichen, green 
fern, and red crow's-bill; and then, 
down the face of the cliff, from the 
top to the water's edge, the black, 
seared streak of a meteoric stone, 
which had shattered itself against 
the crest of the mountain, and rolled 
down in fiery fragments into the 
lake, was distinctly visible." — C. 
Otway. 

The lake is of the great depth of 
240 ft., and is said to be never frozen. 
There is another tarn, Lough 
Greenan, at a lower elevation on the 
W. side ,* and Lough Eeelan, a still 
smaller one, on the N., giving off a 
streamlet that flows into Glen Lough. 
The view looking S. to Kilmacrenan, 

4 m. distant, is pretty, but not 
to be compared to that extend- 
ing on the N. over Glen Lough and 
Sheephaven, with its noble crags and 
the blue waters of the Atlantic ; 
while to the W. the summits of the 
Donegal Alps are visible in the lofty 
crests of Muckish, Dooish, and 
Arrigal, with its cone-like top. 

1J m. the road crosses the Lack- 
agh, and emerges on the sands 
w T hich form the head of Sheephaven. 
To the N.E. they extend for a 
long distance under the name of the 
Campion and Eosapenna sands — the 
latter reaching to beyond Carrickart. 
Fifty years ago a beautiful residence 
built by Lord Boyne existed at 
Eosapenna, but it has long been as 
deeply overwhelmed by sand as the 
ch. of Perranzabuloe in Cornwall. 

" A line of coast and country ex- 
tends from the sea deep into the 
land, exhibiting one wide waste of 
red sand ; for miles not a blade of 
grass, not a particle of bloom ; but 
hills and dales, and undulating 
swells, smooth, solitary, desolate, re- 
flecting the sun from their polished 
surface of one uniform hue. Fifty 
years ago this line of coast was as 



Ireland. Route 11. — Doe Castle — fiPSun/ne's Gun. 



P7 



y ii;i] roved as the opposite 
. and contained the 
rtable mansion of I iord Boyne, 
an old-fa - '1 manorial house and 

q, with avenues and ten 
raded with walled parks. But 
w not a vestige of this is to be 
q— one common mountain of sand 
- 11." — Sh tch s in L> la\ 
11 thismischief appe 
n the cart lessly per- 
rabbits t " gnaw the ro< - 

■■' . 
li, when pr< I, 8( n < - as a 

ursion 
id. 

st views in 

up aii'l<l<'\\ n Sheep- 

le - backed up 
bv t] derous ma 

sh. 

i li. the 

ss the D ly. 

1 tie, i - lar 

M'£ vru s, which 
. 
rendered habitable by 
The pi ison will 
tirich contai 
■ <1 
building : - ; 

1 1 1 . y 
[ . 

■ be 

■ 

u irul 

in t] \". 
i 

. are i 

I 

I 



an«l on rt. Marble Hill, the & 
of G. Fitzgerald, Esq., which over- 
looks a pretty bay uear the entrance 
of Sheephaven, 

10 m. Dun&naghy is a neai little 
town with a very fair hotel, whence 
the 1r;iv< lit r can comfortably mat i 
his excursions to the scenery of Horn 
Head. On the way fivni Dnnfanaghy 
a narrow channel is crossed, through 
which the tide rushes with ejreal 
rapidity, to Horn I lend House, the, 
i\ sidence of Rev. C. Stewart. 

1 in. to the W. in a din d line will 
found M*Swyne's Gun, concern- 
ing which marvellous tables are tokj. 
The coast here is very precipitou 
and p ted with caverns, one of 

which, running in - tance, is 

connected with tin- surface above bv 

v 

a narrow orifice. Through this, in 
rough weather, the sea dashes, 
throwing up a volume of water, ac- 
companied by a loud explosion or 
boom, said to have been heard as far 
1 ) ny ! Such blow-holes ar< i n< >t un- 
omon on the coast of South WaJ 
and Cornwall, although; of com- . 
the effects differ in proportion to i' 

Le of th'- phenomenon. A little D 
the N.E. of this Bpol is a circular 

-tie. Jin; Q ][. ,id ifl Q prqj 

in shape somewhat resembling a 
horn, bordered on one side by the 
inl< t of Sheephaven, though on I 
oth< r the coast trends away to the S. 
The cliffe are 800 ft. in height, and 
adly precipitous. The view from 
the summit of the head is one 
boundli ss Atlanl ic i cean, btdk 
only on the X.W. by the islands 
* f [nishbeg, In 1 

i Tory : and on the NT,E. by the 
diflfi rent h< adlands of this rugg( d 
v.. Melm< . Rinmore, Fanad, 
i Malin \\< ads, \\ hile i 
E. een in the di£ 

ad i f [nishtn hull. 'I 
in many pi high r and 

citic, but il. 
i [( ad I Bhou 

ern t 
i in ' T 

W 



9S 



Route 11. — Londonderry to Gweedore. Ireland. 



Natural History will find plenty of 
ornithological interest amongst the 
various sea-birds that frequent these 
cliffs, amongst which are the shell- 
drake (Tadorna vulpanser), the guil- 
lamot ( Uria troile), the sea-parrot, the 
cormorant, the shag (Phulocrocorax 
graculus), the gannet, the stormy 
petrel, the speckled diver (Colymbus 
glaeialis), and many others. The 
distance from Dunfanaghy to the 
signal tower is ah out 4 m. 

Conveyances. — Car to Letterkenny 
and to Gweedore daily. 

Distances. — Letterkenny, 24 m. ; 
Kilmacrenan, 17 ; Milford, 18; Glen, 
10 : Rathmullan, 25 ; Doe Castle, 8 ; 
Ards, 6 ; Horn Head, 4 ; Cross 
Koads, 6 J; Gweedore, 22. 

Excursions. — 

1. Tory Island. 

2. Horn Head. 

3. Falcarragh and Muckish. 

4. Doe and Ards. 

[Should the tourist be adventurous 
enough to visit Tory Island (anc.'Toir- 
inis), which lies some miles from 
Horn Head, he should start on his ex- 
pedition from Dunfanaghy. It is a 
bleak and desolate island, although 
containing some objects of interest ; 
and if tradition is worth anything, 
was considered important enough to 
fight for in the early days, " when 
giants were in the land." The Book 
ofBallymote states that it was pos- 
ted by the Fomorians, a race of 
pirates and giants who inhabited 
Ireland 12 centuries before the 
Christian era. One of their number, 
named Conaiug, .erected a tower on 
the island, as is recorded in the 
Book of Leacan : — 

" The Tower of the Island, the Island of the 
Tower, 
The citadel of Conaiug, the son of Foebar." 

It contains a portion of a round tower, 
led Clog-teach, " The Bell-House," 
and the remains of a ruined castle, 
together with a modem lighthouse, 
the qnly token of the civilised world 
on the island. The rock scenery of 
i is very fine and charaeter- 



" Some leagues out at sea, but 
seeming within your grasp, lay Tory 
Island, rising out of the deep like a 
castellated city, lofty towers, church 
spires, battlements, batteries, and 
bastions, apparently presented them- 
selves, so strangely varied and so fan- 
tastically deceptive were its cliffs." — 
Otway. Porphyrinic syenite appears 
to be the geological structure. 

The tourist must be prepared for 
any emergencies in the matter of 
accommodation, and, in case of rough 
weather suddenly coming on, of un- 
limited detention on the island.] 

5J m. the road runs rather inland, 
and crosses the Ray river. 

[6J m., at the village of Cross 
Roads, or Falcarragh, a mountain- 
road through Muckish Gap joins 
the Dunlewy route. It follows the 
glen of the Ray, and skirts the base 
of Muckish.] 

Adjoining Falcarragh is Bally- 
connell House, the seat of Wybrants 
Olphert, Esq., in whose grounds is 
a stone of some local notoriety, called 
Clough-a-neely. In old Myrath ch.- 
yard is the cross of St. Columbkill, 
made of one piece of rock, said to 
have been brought by St. Columb 
from Muckish Mountain. Falcarragh 
is a good point from whence to ascend 
Muckish 2190 ft., which will well 
repay the trouble, though from its 
steeply escarped sides it is no easy 
work. " The geological structure 
consists of a very thin slaty mica, 
granular quartz, and silver white 
mica. At the height of 500 ft. is an 
extensive- bed of white quartz sand 
in very minute grains, which lias 
been exported to the glass-works of 
Dumbarton, being considered an ex- 
cellent material." — Glesecke. 

A little further on, the Tullagho- 
1 >■ gly is crossed, as it descends from 
the Altan Lough, a savage tarn 
under the precipices of Arrigal (Rte. 
10), the peak of which becomes a 
prominent object on the E. 

From hence to Gweedore there is 
nothing to detain the tourist. The 






Zbelaxj . Boute 12. — Londonderry to Belfast. 






r a desolate mountain- 

rt. the Bloody 

1- the hill above which is 

rds of 10 As the a asl is 

died, llu' islands ( f 

J rnishmeane, and Gola 

•nspieuou 

m, ( I idy Bridge, or Bunbeg, 

a ch., and 
aging to the Gw 

v. 

22 m. Gw B tel Rte.10). 



: 12. 

LONDONDERRY TO BELFAST, 
i:i:x COUNTIES RATL- 

Etly. crosses 

• brink of the water 

7 

lit 

: English al 

I 

7 



Templemoyle Agricultural School 
occupying very pretty situations i 
the banks of the Muff Glen. Tlu re 
is a village of the same name • 
the opposite side of the lough, which 
musl not be confound* d with t. 
one. On either side, the mountain 
scenery begins to assume larj 
dimensions; on the 1. the hills of 
[nishowen loom in the distance ; I 
highest point being Slieve Snaght 

19 ft. between Buncrana and Mo- 
ville. On the rt. an important ehai i 
occupies the area between Den; 
Dungiven, where it joins another 
and more marked group extending 
rds b< tween Newtown i 
addy and Coleraine, 

1-} in. ( << rrickhugh ; on rt. 
Walworth W< ad House ( lol. 

i). 

134 '"• BaUykeUy. This village is 
Hi*- prop< rty of the Fishmongei 

mpany, who in 1C1 ( J erected a 
fortified mansion. 

1 5 wtown June! ion, [leading 

1 i 2 ;.!. rt Newtown Limavaddy 

a'sArms), which obtaiB 
its name from Lim-an-madadh, 
L»< '-.'■ a glen on the banks 
of which the O'Cahans, the first 
Jte I a castle. Adjoin- 
ing this a s( cond was built, in 1608, 

Sir 'I Phillips, 

nucL us< Pop. 2732 . [1 

mdal the fool of a gro 
worth i 
I y i a] touri 

d, p. xxvi. ) On ti e I'. 
I'-' ft., and K 

i ! 101 ft., while to t] 
I's HiU 13 

• prominent As for 

Uin:r, is 

little to detain 

! 

I 

travc I] 

r 

I the im- 

r 



100 



Houte 12. — Londonderry to Belfast. Ireland. 



are Drenagh House (0. M'Causland, 
Esq.), Roe Park (Harvey Nicholson, 
Esq.), Streeve, Hermitage, &o. The 
Sperrin Hills run E. from Strabane 
to Draperstown ; then turn rather 
abruptly to the N. to Ooleraine, their 
eour.se being marked by the towns 
of Maghera and Garvagh on the E., 
Dungiven and Newtown on the W. 
Between these 2 places, however, 
a minor chain runs in from London- 
derry, interrupted only by the valley 
of the Roe. 
Excursions. — 

1. Dungiven. 

2. Benyevenagh. 

3. Keady. 

Dungiven is in a charming situa- 
tion at the confluence of the Roe 
with the 2 rivers Owen Nagh and 
Owen Beg, and at the foot of Ben- 
bra dagh, which rises to the height of 
1490 ft. directly to the E. of the 
town, and is cultivated nearly to its 
summit. To the S. are the Sperrin 
Mountains, the most lofty points of 
which are Sawel 2240 ft., and Mul- 
laghaneany 2070 ft. Dungiven con- 
tains ruins of the Skinners' Com- 
pany's Castle, or fortified bawn, 
built in 1G18, and also of an abbey, 
picturesquely placed on a rock 200 
ft. above the Roe. It has a nave 
and chancel, the latter lighted by 
two lancet windows deeply splayed 
within, with a mitre on each side, 
the whole being surrounded by a 
blocked arch resting on corbels; 
there is also a square-headed window 
above. The nave is separated from 
the chancel by a good circular arch 
of apparently Trans. Norm., and has 
also in the N. side a circular-headed 
doorway. The church has a belfry 
at the S. angle of the W. front, 
which formerly exhibited the features 
of a round tower or cloictheach. 
Notice under an elaborate Dec. arch 
in the chancel the altar-tomb of Coo- 
cv-na-gall, a chief of the O'Oahans. 
It bears the effigy of a recumbent 
knight, and the sides are sculptured 
with armed figures. This abbey was 



founded in 1100 bytheO'Cahans, and, 
having fallen to ruins, was restored 
with great solemnity by the Arch- 
bishop of Armagh. The clan of the 
O'Cahans held their territory under 
the O'Neills, "and, being of the 
greatest authority in these parts, had 
the honour of throwing the shoe 
over the head of O Neill when chosen, 
according to the barbarous ceremony 
then practised upon some high hill 
in the open air.' — Gibson. Close to 
the town is Pellipar House (J. Ogilby, 
Esq.). The road to Draperstown 
runs over very elevated ground to 
the base of the White Mountain, in 
which is the source of the Roe, and 
then emerges through the romantic 
pass of Evishgore. The schist rocks 
in the neighbourhood of Dungiven 
are famous for their quartz crystals, 
called Dungiven diamonds, many of 
which are found of great size. The 
old eh. of Banagher, nearly 3 m. 
S.W. of the village, should be 
visited for the sake of its doorway, 
which is square-headed, and has 
inclined sides, somewhat resembling 
the one at Glendalough (Rte. 24). 
In the ch-yard is the tomb of St. 
Muiredach O'Heney, on which a 
curious relievo of the saint is 
depicted outside. Dr. Petrie con- 
siders it to date from the latter 
part of the 11th cent. " There 
is a custom in this neighbour- 
hood which testifies the supersti- 
tious respect in which this monu- 
ment is still held. In anv horse-race, 
if a handful of the sand adjacent to 
the tomb be thrown upon the horse 
as it passes, it is thought that it will 
ensure success in the nice/' — Doyle. 
A similar early tomb is found at 
Bovevagh eh , between Dungiven 
and Newton. It is faced with sand- 
stone, though it is minus the like- 
ness of the saint. 

Conveyances from Dungiven. — Car 
to Deny. 

Distances.— Draperstown, 12 m. ; 
N. Limavaddy, 9 ; Maghera, 1 3 ; 
Deny, 19.] 



T! -I'll' 12. — MaeOiUigan — Coleraine. 



101 



rena i> a marine 

of sir F. Heygate, Bart., 

.;t the mouth of the Roe and 

t of the mountain of /»'< nyi - 

igh 12(30 ft., M the face of which 

is encmnhered by ponderous and 

sh'.\\« ':■ ss m; ss< 3, ri sing in bucc 

sivr - to the base of the steep 

basaltic summit, and then breaking 

• pinn ind precipitous cliffs. 

one of these and Looking 

along the face of the mountain, tin • 

lines of rudely-formed 

hillocks, I ic v face they pre- 

m nt I untain pre- 

n»l t - beds of 

1 i occur in 

In r with the 

which y« t n main on some 

le nature of ti 

i this magnificent 

liti*." — /' I 

will ill com- 

i of tin se in ees o1 hill is 

•hall I by c and 

bam id r. or 

A little 

t'urii i at J i the line 

ver - to the es- 

-. winch in nume- 

iil: the lonjr-con- 

tilt- 
s' a. 1 ility ; 

HI : re roi tic in 

re <•!" holi- 

the pur- 

pasee .)t' buthinir and picnic • •• Lebra- 

leur 
n. Here 
. in- 
. and the p 

Ivan 
.High 

ularly and 

I 
■ B ; ' 

: 



others — Botrychium lunaria, Aju 
alpina, Orobanche rubra, Eiieraciuin 
murorum, II. Lawsoni, Dryas octo- 
petala, Saxifrage oppositofolia, Are- 
naria verna, Draba incana, Ranuncu- 
lns hirsutus. Looking across the estu- 
ary of the Foyle are the mountains 
forming the promontory of [nishowen 
Head. MacGilligan is interesting 
to scientific men, as being the bat 
line on which the Trigonometrical 
Survey of Inland was laid down 
in 1826. A1 Down Hill the rly. 
pierces the chalk 1>y a longi -h tun- 
nel. The effi cts produced by the 
disruption of strata arc even more 
peculiar than at MacGilligan, and 
show themselves in the form 
isolated pinnacles and 
larg -' t which, called the Pipe 
< ive, ia about 1 10 tt. in length. TJ 

jl should also visil the Gap 
of Carnowry, ' ; which terminates in ;i 
very beautiful fall, formed of sue- 
where the ochre* 
conglomerate and basalt arc Been in 
contact. The basalt penetrates as a 
vein into the conglomerate, and small 
fragments of flints are found in an 
amygdaloid, as at Ballycastle Rte. 
13 . i ling important chemi< 1 

and mechanical chan -.' P rt~ 
lock. At Down Hill was the seat of 
Bruce, buill by tl 
h : • Earl of I trisi >1, and famoi 
for its libn ry and picture-galleri 
which were unfortunately cE Btr< ; 1 
by fire, includit iulptur< Boy 

and I dolphin, by Michael '■ lo. 

The Qni 3 close to the 

B inn, which is crossed by a loi 
and peculiarly li *ht I 

Col - . pronounced Coole- 

i . ( □ d-rathaine) Hot I: 
M'Grotty'a Rt . L3 . li i im- 

from th ' I., 

who grante 1 the wh »le of this di 
tricttothi I l paniei 

how< v r, did n<>t trouble themseh 
much about its sanil 

re to I- liev< 

1 
• so di 



102 



Route 12. — Londonderry to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



iMe to go into if. especially what is 
called the market place.*' Ooleraine 

is now a clean, busy place, largely 
connected with the linen trade, and 
well situated on the Bann, which 
is crossed by a bridge connecting 

the suburb of Waterside with the 
in portions of the town (Pop. 5G31). 
There are extensive salmon fisheries 
at the Crannagh, near the month of 
the river, and again higher up at the 
l Jutty, where there is a fall of 13 ft., 
and consequently a salmon-leap. In 
former days Ooleraine possessed a 
priory, monastery, and castle, all of 
which have disappeared, but on 
Mount Sandel, 1 m. S.E., there is a 
very large rath 200 ft. high, and sur- 
rounded by a dry fosse. It is men- 
tioned in the ' Annals of the Four 
Masters ' as having been built in 
1197, and is supposed to have been 
the site of De Courcey's castle. In 
the immediate neighbourhood are 
Jackson Hall and Somerset (H. R. 
Richardson, Esq.), both of them situ- 
ated on the banks of the river. 

Though the Bann is here tidal, 
and Ooleraine a seaport, there is at 
its mouth a bar, causing so much ob- 
struction that the real harbour may 
be said to be at Portrush,(Rte. 13). 

Conveyances. — Rail to Derry, Port- 
rush, and Belfast. Car to Bush- 
mills ; also to Kilrea. 

Distances. — Portstewart, 3J m. ; 
Portrush, 6§ ; Ballymoney, 8 ; Mac 
Gilligan, 10; Newtown Limavaddy, 
21; Bushmills, 8. 

The rail now fojlows up the rt. 
bank of the Bann, qtriting it at 

41 del Ballymoney, which is an 
industrious town extensively con- 
cerned in the sales of " Coleraines" 
and other linens, but does notpossi 
much to interest the general tourist. 

►nveyances to Ballycastle, 17 m. 
distant (Bte. 13). At Dunloy, 49 m. 
the line is carried between 2 hills 
about 400 ft. respectively, and has 
on 1. 3 m. Lissanoure Castle, the seat 
of G. Macartney, Esq. Some 3 m. 



W. of Dunloy, in the picturesque 
mountain district known as the 
Craigs, is the interesting cromlech 
of the Broadstonc, of which the in- 
cumbent stone is 10 ft. in length, and 
rests partially upon 2 supporters, the 
others having fallen. We then cross 
the watershed, and follow the Main 
river, a small stream flowing due S. 
into Lough Neagh, to 

62 m. Ballymena {Hotel: Adare 
Arms), next to Ooleraine the most 
important town in the district, 
which, since the introduction of the 
linen trade in 1733, has largely in- 
creased in population. It is said that 
the sale of brown linens alone averages 
1,000,000Z. yearly. It is a well-built 
and well-to-do town of some 8000 
Inhab., situated on the Braid, which 
soon joins the Main. 

About \\ m. to the W. are Galgorm 
Castle, formerly a seat of the Earls 
of Mountcashel, and now of J. 
Young, Esq., and Grace Hill, a Mo- 
ravian settlement, founded in 1748. 

Conveyances. — Ely. to Belfast. Car 
to Kilrea. 

Distances. — Maghera, 18 m. ; Port 
Glenone, 9. 

The line again runs side by side 
with the Main to 

70 m. Cookstown Junction. [From 
hence a branch riy. runs W. to 
Cookstown, passing 

3 m. Bandalstown, a pleasant little 
business town on the Main, which is 
crossed by a bridge of 9 arches. It 
suffered considerable damage from 
the hands of the insurgents in 1798. 
The church is E. Eng., with an oc- 
tagonal spire. The principal object 
of interest, however, is the beautiful 
demesne of Shane's Castle (late Vis- 
count O'Neill), which stretches from 
the town to and along the shores of 
Lough Neagh for a distance of 3 m. 
The Main flows through the grounds, 
and is crossed by an ornamental 
bridge, connecting them with the 
Deer-park, which is of considerable 
extent. The former mansion was 
utterly destroyed by fire in 1816,. 



Route 12. — Rand ' wn — Cookstown, 



10° 









win n n ived but the 

y ]n]nrs. At present a por- 

stabl s has be >n- 

i n residence, all that 

stle b some 

nnd the fortified espla- 

which is a rvatory. 

T at rep tative of t 

■ly family, which claimed 

I the chi fs i t' 

William O'Neill, 

the surname and arms 

1. The 

mb of 

private burial- 

Th >lo- 

f columnar 

back of 

I 

he Lou 

ly at J 1 iii. 

I 

by a 

- i by a bridge of 9 

• turnpike road. 

- of a 

1 . >r I Conway in 

The river flows di 

i expands into 

Bann i - I 

rs 

, it is i 
r that the 

ch -I by i 

by 

i 

-ill, 

• »wn 

r 



About 8 m. higher up the M03 
is Magh ra t formerly a place of son 
antiquity, though now a quiet lim - 
bleaching Little town, pl< tly 
situated at the base of the S. 
corner of the Sperrin moui 
which run hither from Slrabane and 
turn suddenly to the N. to Coleraine. 
Oarntogher L521 ft., White Mount) 
996, and Muinard 2064, are the 
principal heights, i! is a fine moun- 
tain walk of 13 m. from Maghera to 
Dungiven(p. 100] through the pass of 
inshane. The old ch. 1 I ins 
\\\ door a pu 
1 lie* Crucifixion, and in the ch.-ya 
is 1 ab of Lenri, in \\ i . <>, 

when op< 1 I some year . a 

silver crucifix was found. Hie ar- 
chsBologist will al id sev 1 I 

j 1 rat hs in the neighbourl* >od. 

m.Maghara r otel: WFaWs) 

is a Jin! u town, b ing to tho 

;• rs 1 Company. The \ y on 

the W. is rather strikiii Slieve 

Gullion Mountains rising to tl 

I of IToo ft. A 2nd \ ad I 
from Magharafelt t<> Dungiven 
through Drapers town, near which is 
]). yd R. Babi ). 

25 in. Moneymore Inn: I > 
A property of the i> 

I lompany, who have lai 1 
out 1 sums in the improvi - 

I . Unfortunate Ly, in 
the process the ancient 1 
tat : 1 room for ;i 

public- e, a circumstance to ! 

tted the mon . it is <i< scrifr 1 
by Pyni hai ing been 1 ne of 

the most perf ct in Irelan I. Spring 
Hill is the residenceofW. L ( Sonynj - 
ham, Esq. : the m insion is b< t ■..<•. n 
200 ; ps old. The termi- 

* 

nus of the branch Line is r< acru <1 

■ i 1. < WoU 1 : 1 

' ly 
built place of on< 

in I ogth. .'iit 

towi 1 by 

w- 



104 



Route 12. — Londonderry to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



art, the proprietors mid founders of 
Cookstown. The house was built 
by Nash in the castellated si vie. At 
Denyloran the antiquary will find 
ruins of an old eh., and at Loughry, 
2 ni. to the §., a cromlech. 

At Ardbo on the shores of Lough 
Neagh, about 6 m. from Cookstown, 
Lire the ruins (of very rude work) of 
the Abbey of St. Kieran ; and close by 
stands a large sculptured cross, the 
figures of which arc much weathered.' 

Con veya n ces. — Car to Stewarts- 
town, also to Dungannon. 

Distances. — Dungannon, 10 J m. ; 
Stewartstown, 6J 

From the Cookstown Junction 
the main line keeps in sight of 
the lough to 

73 m. the county town of 
Antrim (anc. Auntruibh), situated 
on the banks of the Six Mile 
Water as it joins the waters of 
Lough Neagh (Hotel : Massareene 
Arms) (Pop. 2800). Historically, An- 
trim is known as the scene of a 
battle' in the reign of Edward III. 
between the English and native 
Irish, and again in 1798 of a fierce 
engagement between the insurgents, 
who had marched on the town 
simultaneously from Belfast, Car- 
rickfergus, Ballymena, and Shane's 
Castle. So obstinate, how T ever, was 
the defence ; that they retreated 
with the loss of nearly 1000 men, 
though the victory was dearly gained 
by the death of Earl O'Neill. It is 
a well-built pleasant town, doing a 
considerable trade in linen and paper 
making. The principal building is 

e church, which has a good -tower 
and an octagonal spire, but the 
suburbs possess far greater attractions 
than tlic town. Between the river and 
the lake is Antrim Castle, the seat of 
Lord Ferrard and Massareene. The 
present building dates from 1662, and 
is approached by a Tudor gateway, 
" \]ie doors of which are cast iron, 
and are opened from a room over- 
id by means of machinery." The 
front of the house faces the gate, 



and is flanked by 2 square towers, 
each in their turn finished off by 
smaller round towers at the angles. 
It is decorated with the family arms, 
and medallions containing portraits 
of Charles I. and II The principal 
beauty of the place is in the gardens, 
which are very well laid out, and 
embellished with fishponds. Sir John 
Clotworthy, the founder of the castle, 
was granted a patent for building 
and repairing as many barks on the 
lake as were needed for the king's 
use. In connection with this sin- 
gular right, a naval battle took place 
in 1642 between the Irish garrison 
at Charlemont and the amphibious 
garrison of Antrim, " but the rebels, 
being freshwater soldiers, were soon 
forced on shore, and the victors, 
pursuing their fortune, followed them 
to the fort and forced them to sur- 
render it, and in this expedition 60 
rebels were slain, and as many 
brought prisoners to Antrim."— Stir 
B. Cox. 

About f m. N.E. of tbe town, in 
the grounds of Steeple (G. J. Clarke, 
Esq. ), is a very perfect round tower. 
It is 95 ft. high, and 53 ft. in circum- 
ference, and capped by a conical 
block, put up in lieu of the original, 
which was shattered by lightning. 
The door is between 9 and 10 ft. 
from the ground, facing the N"., 
and is formed of single large stones 
for the lintels outside and inside. 
Between the 2 is fixed a large beam 
of oak. The whole of the doorway 
is constructed of blocks of coarse 
grained basalt, and is but 4 ft. 4 in. 
in height. It is also remarkable " for 
having a pierced cross within a circle, 
sculptured in relievo on the stone 
immediately over the lintel. Though 
the foundation of the church of An- 
trim is ascribed, perhaps erroneously, 
to St. Mochaoi, a contemporary of 
St. Patrick, the popular tradition 
of the country gives the erection 
of the town to the celebrated builder 
Gobban Sacr, who flourished in the 
7th cent." — Fetrie. 



Ireland. 



Route 12. — Lough Neagh, 



10S 



n Antrim. — Rail 
>1 and Coleraine. 
I > ?, Shane's ( lastle, 3 m. : 

( ; £us, i;>; : B< Lfast, 22 : lian- 

1. Ram Ed n 1. 
_ I 

wou em the proper 

place for a brief description of 

/ anc. Loch n'Eat- 

; lake in the British 

20 in. in It ngth, 12 in 

1,1. . and 

an area <•: 5 acr 

\ ounties are washed 

form an ini- 

physica] geo- 

rial resources of 

Although 10 

ri\ veil its basin, 

an 
which circums 

inundations of the 

. which frequently hap- 

ich an i stent 1" for< the 

bat 30,000 

d( cL The lake 

ui ir» ft. in the deep pari 

I i< ut. 

be 100 ft. in 

between 

1 avi • 

. and the 

- 

p. rhaps the 
lountain 

.ll- 
Ht 

districl 

i y 

mini : 

ch 

— 

■ 



having been found in this state at 
various times ; but it has been con- 
sidered by Gen. Portlock that they 
belong to the tertiary formations, 
from whence they have been wash< <l 
out. "The clays and sands, with 

* 

lignites, on Lough Neagh and Lough 
Beg; were of lacustrine origin, prov- 
ing a former level of these Lab 
from 10 to 30 i't. higher than I 
present. The trunks and stems of 
trees found in the clay must either 
have been drifted and Mink into t 

t mild, or have been silted np 
with mud after their destruction, 
which would imply a successive ri 
and fall of the lake." The Legend 
of the buried city, which appertains 

almost every lake in \ 

kingdom, is in fall force on Lough 
\ § i. and has obtained a wori 
wide celebrity from its b< ing the 
subject of one of Moure's favourite 
ballads : — 

" On Lough Neagh's banks, as the fisherman 
si ray-, 

When the clear cold eve's declining; 
Be Beea the Round Towers of other days, 

In tli*- wave beneath him Bhining." 

It i> singular that such a large 

in should contain so few islands, 

and none of any size. Bam [s- 

d Bhould be visited, on account 

the pretty cottage orne'e of t 

Lai E ri ( I X'ill. and also for its 

round tower, which i> not in bu< h 

d preservation as the one at 

A m riii i. ft is almost L3 ft. high, 

and is Lighted in the 2nd story 

by b square-headi d window facii _ 

the B.E., and in the 3rd by oi 

ing the V It is said, but up< i 
doubtful authority, that at Low 
water in summer, a bank connects 
island with < lartr< e Point, and 
thai it ] ba all the ap] 

«.f ;i pave 1 causes 

m A ntrini tl 8 rlv. follows up 
- Mil. Wai :• the Ollarhl 
■ ! on 

i iti side Ball] II 

M , A I T omp- 

.11 I !•• (Lord 



L06 



Route 13. — Coleraine to Belfast, 



Ireland. 



Tem^leton), in the parish of 
Templepatrick, which is .said to 
poss( as Qot a single Eoman Catholic. 

88 m. Carrickfergus Junction (Etc 
13.) 

90 m. White Abbey, so called from 
a monastic establishment, founded 
in the 13th cent. An E.E. ruined 
chapel is all that remains. 

Green Castle, a suburb of Belfast, 
takes its name from slight ruins of 
a fortress. 

The whole of the line from the 
junction to the terminus runs close 
to Belfast Lough, and on the land 
side is lined with a succession of 
bleach-greens and the handsome re- 
sidences of the Belfast merchants. 

94§ m. Belfast (Kte. 5) (Hotels: 
Imperial ; Eoyal ; Queen's ; Albion). 



EOUTE 13. 

FROM COLERAINE TO BELFAST, BY 
PORTRUSH, THE GiANT'S CAUSE- 
WAY, AXD BALLYCASTLE. 

The tourist should make a point of 
following this route, which is known 
as the Great Coast Eoad, for it in- 
cludes in one excursion a large pro- 
portion of the interest and beauty of 
the north of Ireland, whilst the scien- 
tific observer, and the geologist in 
particular, have unlimited opportu- 
nities of studying one of the most 
singular basaltic districts in Europe. 

A short branch rly. runs from 
Coleraine to Portrush, passing 3 J m. 
1. the small watering-place of Port- 
tiewart (Hotel, Portstewart), situ- 
ated so as to command fine views 



of the opposite promontory of Inish- 
owcii. A wooden castle, built by 
Mr. O'llara, is happily placed on the 
cliffs, which here terminate on the 
W. of the great basaltic range, and 
contain veins of zeolite, ochre, and 
steatite. Adjoining the station is 
Cromore, the seat of the Cromie 
family. 

6 J m. Portrush (Hotels : Antrim 
Arms, one of the best and most 
comfortable hotels in Ireland ; Cole- 
man's) is a favourite spot, botli from 
its attractions as a marine residence 
and its proximity to the Causeway. 
A peninsula of basalt runs out for 
f of a mile, and on this the- town is 
built, having a deep bay on either 
side, and opposite it the picturesque 
line of the Skerries, which forms a 
very fine natural breakwater, in itself 
a great means of shelter to the har- 
bour of Portrush. The town is small 
though well built, and contains an 
obelisk in memory of Dr. Adam 
Clarke, to whose zealous efforts in 
the cause of religion the inhabitants 
of the district were much indebted. 

The rock scenery, within five 
minutes' walk of the hotel, is rugged 
and picturesque, though the cliffs 
rise to no great height. On the S. 
side there are caverns in the white 
limestone of the chalk formation. 

Both chalk and lias strata have 
undergone considerable metamorphic 
action from their juxta-position to 
the gneiss rocks, "as long grada- 
tions of changes from the silicious 
chert-like strata, replete with organic 
remains, to the highly crystalline 
rock, may be here distinctly traced." 
— Portloch. The indurated lias strata 
of Portrush are identical with those of 
McGilligan and Ballintey. The fossil 
collector will find Ammonites (sp. 
intermedins and McDonnellii)Pec ten, 
Lima pectinoides ; Panopa^a elongata, 
&c. (Introd., p. xxi.) 

Conveyances. — Bail to Coleraine ; 
car to Bushmills ; steamer weekly 
to Glasgow and Oban. 

Distances. — Coleraine, 6Jm.; Port- 






I 



77 ute 13. — Dunl/irc Castle. 



107 



hmills, 6i; < Hant'a 

I Duuluce Castle, 3j ; 

. 1 .""):}. 

. 

1 . P rt. 

Dun! i 1 Causi w ty. 

the rt. of the strand 

ush, the r ins a mag- 

levation al a greal 

vc the s< a. T Logisl 

all m< ans walk to the 

will i dn a 

te opportunity of investi- 

R icur 

• Portrush and 

I I 

• 

! m is ob- 

Lk, which 

over- 

tioned 

the b iili the 

well studied. It is 

all the pro- 

asl : i4 the 

chalk on which the 

_■ v< iv une^ ud 

in tvated into wide 

the transv< i 

head- 
in- 
A 

of 

[on 
cliffs ii 

lit" wli the 
1. 

[ue 

//. 

tuation 

' 

' ! ' 

, whii 

- in. broad, 

_ 



one thai is sufficiently d ud 

unprotected for a nervous visitor. 
Notwithstanding the erreal size of 
the castle, a nearer inspection is 
somewhat disappoints T] e do- 
mestic apartments and offices ap- 
pear to have been principally | 1 
on the mainland, while the build- 
ing en the reek is occupied by a 
small courtyard, a numb r « f small 
apartments, and some round flanking 
tow< rs overhanging I a, into 

which it is said a portion of the 

tie reallv fell during a Btorm in 
ir.:'!>. w hen the Marcl ioni ss i :' Buck- 
ingham was r» siding here. By whom 
or when i; firsl er< cted is not 

known, bul the Bite upied by 

a fori r 3e "l" the M'Quillans, wl 

1 a large portion of this 
northern district, until ii was taken 
from tin m by the M'Donm lis (after- 
wards Earls of Antrim;, the repre- 

Ltative of whom was SorleyBoy, a 

lebrated character of those days. 
These p were in their turn 

ousted by Sir John Pei Lord 

Deputy, who occupied the castle by 
;'ii English garrison. The rode on 
which it stands is basaltic 'portions 
of the building it-' It* showing the 

lygonal structure), and contains 
lar v. b n.! In ueath, said to com- 

municate with the buildii It 

uld be iii< ntion( d, for the lov< 
[rish pedign I 

Bf*Quillan could trace his family from 
th< ir d< parture m m Babj Ion .°>(i00 

they came to 
I from their name i I 
( Ihaldi - gave in h> the word 
( Sal 'i ! 

12 in. Busl mills Hotel, Imperii 
:i neal little town on the banks of 
the Busl ! for i : illery 

and i' Imon ti- 
i i uch in reou( 

men. the bridge in tl 

me curved 
ble. ! the 

Dm 

Edmrj d M.- v 
whoa t<> the 



108 



Route 13. — Coleraine to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



McDonnells, Earls of Antrim, and 
came over to Ireland in the begin- 
ning of the 17th centy. 

14} m. The approach to the Cause- 
way Hotel (tolerable) is self-evident 
from the numbers of guides and 
others who lie in wait for the un- 
suspecting traveller, and run by the 
side of his car, proffering their ser- 
vices or selling little boxes of fossils 
and minerals. As regards the former, 
the visitor had better avail himself 
of the knowledge of the head guide, 
Alexander Laverty by name, who 
is intelligent and strictly conscien- 
tious, being determined that nobody 
intrusted to his care shall depart 
without listening to his lecture on the 
formation of the Causeway. As to 
the fossils, it may not be amiss to 
mention that many of the speci- 
mens offered for sale were never ob- 
tained at the Causeway or even in the 
neighbourhood. At the hotel the 
visitor may obtain a tariff of prices 
for guides, boats, &c, by which he 
should strictly abide, and not allow 
any annoyance from the multitude 
of beggars, who, under pretence of 
showing some special curiosity, pes- 
ter everybody for money. Should 
the day be calm enough, the first 
point is to see the caves which lie 
under the rocks a little to the N.W. 
of the hotel. The principal and 
most beautiful is Porthcoon, into 
which a boat may be rowed for a 
long distance. It is 350 ft. in length 
and 45ft. in height; and although 
there is an entrance landwards, the 
wonderful effects produced by the 
colouring of the peroxide of iron and 
the deep green of the water are to a 
great extent lost to the visitor who 
approaches it thus. The geologist 
should notice a fault running through 
the whole roof; and to the west of 
the cave a large whindyke. The 
same phenomenon of intrusion of trap 
may be seen at Dunkerry cave, 
which is 660 ft. long and 96 ft. 
high. 

The 3rd cave, called Raeksley, 



cannot be entered, on account of 
sunk rocks. After examining the 
eaves the visitor is rowed eastward 
and landed on the Causeway ; the 
first impression of which is fre- 
quently one of disappointment, aris- 
ing perhaps from the overstrained 
accounts written at different times 
by older topographers. This feeling, 
however, speedily yields to astonish- 
ment when we take into considera- 
tion the immense scale on which all 
the phenomena exist, and more 
especially when we look minutely 
into the extraordinary arrangement 
of this pavement of nature. " The 
basalt which forms the columnar 
bed known as the 'Giant's Cause- 
way ' is quite a local deposit, measur- 
ing at the most 2600 ft. in width, or 
from E. to W., and appearing along 
the coast as a lenticular-shaped bed, 
thinning out at either side, and it 
occupies a flattened trough in the 
amorphous basalts which underlie 
the great ochre-bed of the Chimney 
Headland." — Du Noyer. 

The columns on the E. slope to 
the E., others to the W., thus show- 
ing the direction of the longest axis 
of the lava flow. 

It consists of three platforms, 
generally known as the Little, Mid- 
dle, and Great Causeways, as they 
are approached from the W. In 
the Middle or Honeycomb Causeway, 
the principal curiosity is the Lady's 
Chair, a single hexagon pillar, sur- 
rounded by several others of taller 
proportions, so as to form a com- 
fortable seat. Thence the Great 
Causeway is entered through the 
Giant's Gateway, a gap bounded on 
each side by basaltic columns. The 
beauty and order of arrangement of 
the pillars which form the pave- 
ment are the main attraction of the 
Great Causeway, and the guides take 
care to impress on the visitor the 
rarity of certain forms; that of 3- 
sided pillars there is but one, and of 
nonagons but 3 on the whole plat- 
form, while pentagons and hexagons 



: 



Houte 13. — Giant's Causeway, 



109 



are aniversal, and octagons, which 

denominate the key-stone, are 

imon. Each pillar will 

ir looking into, being not only dis- 

frorn its neighbours with which 

united, but, moreov< r, 

within itself an arrange- 

tall crystallizations radi- 

tttii from a common centre. 

•• T tlumns of this particular bed 

Liate from a line of 

imaginary centres, which are coinoi- 

witii tin- longest axis of the 

main i of 

eing defined by the 

of the lava-bed, and 

upright planes of colum- 

al right 

lownwards from whal musl 

Uie primary cooling sur- 

from 
ing b i n slightly de- 
in it " — Du Noyer. 

il imined the forms of the 

ai 1 the various points of 
in1 i om, 

Well, T . Pulpit, I ipes, & 

all rich the guides will taki 

. let m 

s, which, after all, 

andeur <>f the Bcene. 

from the 

rom th> Porth- 

-. the 1 1 

I ' • S uearj Point 

2 :;. \ 

B P tnoffer, the 

Or ' .>.;)■_' M LP 

1 327, the < i y I \> ad 

, Port- 

. Plai skin Head, 
■ Pulpit, Ben- 
i • will enable the 

■ - 

■ 
pri 

I of 

u.Sllt, !i f(\V 

t< •! 
! 
I, a 



very marked feature in the whole 
section, and below this again con- 
sist i of possibly 1 deposits of amor- 
phous basalt, each separated from fche 

others by a thin lay< r of ochre. At 

Portnoffer Point to the W. of this, the 
same arrangement prevails, though 
the ochre-bed thins out and is nearer 
to the sea. The columnar beds above 
it now change their character, losing 
their parallelism of dep< sition, as 
well as distinct columnar structure : 
the ochre-bed disappears, a deposit 
of amorphous basalt takes its place, 
and a new series of pillai seen 

below, called the Organ. Theregu- 
larity and beauty of these pillai 
which extend for about 200 ft, are 
particularly conspicuous, and may 

illy be compared to the pipes of 
an organ without any violent stretch 
of imagination. The geologist must 
particularly notice the inclination of 
the Organ-bed to the AY., and the dip 
of from 6 to 8 degrees; and sup- 
posing it could be tract d all the way, 
it would eventually be found to be a 
continuation of the Giant's Cause- 
way, proving the identity of these 2 
bed 

On the cliffs In the 8. of Portnoffer 
" the 2 columnar beds, which are so 
distinct at the summit of the Chim- 
ney Headland, are repr< sented by not 
1- as than possibly 1 separate deposits 
of trap, the '2 h» ' which occupy 
the central position of the cliff, beii 
rudely and massively columnar, and 
separated from each other by a layer 
of rather black shale." Overhanging 
the causeway is the Ard Snoot, to 
the W. of which is the WJ indy] 
Id ft thick. Proce< ding W. to I 
hotel, it will be p< rceived that the 

ihre-bed i visible by the 

thway, overlaid by the same amor- 
phous trap which r< the< >rgan- 
bed. The whol< i fore, 
[g :; cutting, tram fche longest 
is of the lava flo The tourist 
who wide- \<, go in length ii 
th< ! should 

by Mr, Du 



110 



Route 13. — Coleraine to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



Never, in the ' Geologist,' vol. iii. No. 
25, to which the writer of this notice 
is much indebted. The foregoing de- 
scription embraces the principal and 
most curious features of the coast, but 
nevertheless no visitor should neg- 
lect to prolong his excursion to the 
E. of the Chimney, as the finest coast 
scenery in the north of Ireland oc- 
curs at PleasMn. Between these two 
points is Port-na-Spania, so called 
from the cliffs having been battered 
by a Spanish vessel, under the im- 
pression that they were fortifications. 
From PleasMn, which is 354 ft. in 
height, the tourist has a magnificent 
view eastward over Bengore and 
Fairhead. " The summit is covered 
with a thin grassy sod, under which 
lies the basaltic rock, having gene- 
rally a hard surface somewhat 
cracked and shivered. At the depth 
of 10 to 12 ft. from the summit this 
rock begins to assume a columnar ten- 
dency and forms a range of massive 
pillars, standing perpendicular to the 
horizon, and presenting the appear- 
ance of a magnificent gallery or colon- 
nade GO ft. in length."— Hamilton s 
Antrim. The seat so often occupied 
by the author just quoted is still 
pointed out by the guides. The fan- 
tastic arrangements of the cliffs do 
not end with Pleaskin, but are con- 
tinued in the Lion's Head, Ken- 
bane Head, the Twins (two isolated 
rocks standing together), the Pulpit, 
the Ball Alley, and the Giants' 
Graves ; beyond which the mighty 
headland of Bengore closes the range 
of excursions which more immediately 
belong to the Causeway district. 

Distances from the Hotel. — Bally- 
castle, 12 m. ; Bushmills, 2; Ballintoy, 
7; Garriek-a-rede, 8: Dunluce, 5. 

As there is no public conveyance 
from the Causeway, the traveller will 
have to take a car, if he follows the 
northern coast road, which cuts across 
the promontory to 

175m. I) uit sever iek (Dun Sovarke or 
Sophairce— the fortress of Sophairce), 
where on an insulated rock stand the 



scanty ruins of a castle probably 
erected by the McQuillans, a family 
who arrived in Ireland among the 
earliest English adventurers. It 
afterwards came into possession of 
the O'Cahans or O'Hares, who 
settled in Antrim about the 13th 
centy. Very little is left, though the 
thickness of the walls (11 feet) 
attests its former strength. The 
views looking W. oyer Bengore 
Head are very fine, as also those 
over Fairhead to the E. The coast 
is worth exploring as far as Ben- 
gore, particularly at Portmoon and 
Portagoona, where there is a pic- 
turesque waterfall formed by the 
small river Feigh. Soon after leav- 
ing Dunseverick the road falls into 
the high road from Portrush and 
winds along the strand of White 
Park Bay to 

22 m. Ballintoy, a small village 
situated at the foot of the furzy 
hill of Lannimore, 672 ft. The lias 
rocks here seen are identical with 
those of Portrush and McGillicran. 
Lignite has also been occasionally 
worked here. The coast abounds in 
fine views, particularly to the N.E., 
where the cliffs of Pathlin Island 
are most conspicuous ; and farther in 
the horizon the Scotch coast in the 
neighbourhood of the Mull of Can- 
tire is plainly visible. Close off 
shore is Sheep Island, and about 1 
m. from the village is that of Car- 
rich-a-rede, one of the most singular 
curiosities of the north, on account of 
the swinging bridge which connects 
the island with the mainland. The 
tourist wdio wishes for a closer inspec- 
tion, or to cross over to the island, 
should get a boy to show him the 
way from Ballintoy, though a fine 
distant view is obtained from the 
road to Ballycastle. 

Carrick-a-rede is an insulated 
rock, separated from the mainland 
by a chasm 60 ft. wide and more 
than 80 ft. deep. " At this place 
the salmon are interceptect in their 
retreat to the rivers. The fishing 



XP. 



77 ute 13. — Ballycastle. 



Ill 



spring and con- 

.11 August ; a rude bridge of 

is thrown across, which re- 

ch is prot< cted by a 
s about in the 
nanner, often- 
:t a dangerous feal 
in storm; ve to the na- 

il with the utmost 
The name is d< rived 
II i kill n from " ( :-a- 

on 

I 

r a 

I 1. 1 3 

K< White 

th tin N of a 
tbly t 

f, \ ar ii is a 

3 ( . 1'; 

pillars of 

H ' It Antrim 

small uiiii.t' resting 

.1 at the foot of 

1 Moun- 

to tiit- S. to the 

should be 

■w 

: din Island. 

•ut 

J : ks Of 

abou- 

i». ci it would 

made 

at lly- 

;! all 

town 
of 

I. On the 
is til-- ruined 
which only 
with am- or t 
go* 



Carey. The chap< 1 is 100 ft. I 
On t , N". therefect< 

and offices ; and " the o porch 

was formerly ornamenti d with several 
well - execute d bas- reliefs." — Mc- 
lin. The erection of Bona- 
margy is usually ibut< d to S< >r- 

ley Boy or Somarl 'Donnell in 
the 14th c< nty., though some as- 
cribe it to the M Quillans : at all 
events ii was selected by many of the 

glish n< bL s as tl eir last r< sth 

: tin m by the 1st Earl 

Antrii . ntinuance in this 

world must have had a great effect 
(>M tin fortune - of the a untry, if \ 
arc to judge by an [rish inscription 
i : — 

" At all times Bom< 
B Qth year; 

Bui now thai j Is departed 

Jt * ill happen i \ ir." 

The abb( y is Baid to h:r. n 

burnt down in a raid mad;' by the 
Scottish islanders, though afterwards 
rebuilt by the clan of M'Cormick. 

Ahout 2 m. up the Glenshesk on 
1. bank is I castle calli d 

after Gobi 5 r. It is a ques- 
tion whether it wj 9 * n <•' d by or 
of I I an, the archi- 
•t who built the round t w c of 
trim. A small ruin on t 
t] • W. mplel 

atiqu Tlie 

will I d to explore 

the cliff ; . which 

mount i il strata, 
fromwhichatonetime 10,000 to 15,000 
tons were raised i Uy, but owing 

the i fallii I acery 

the workings v discontinui 

►ugh a c le utity of 

ironston ised. 

I [ill, on which the collie 
are sitnai d, ' K) ft. high, 

and inar basalt, 

d .-;ii te, 

I., n ath whicl at an ele- 

► ft. al I . ch. 

T d by a Uu 

dyke of d ( larrick 

/ \.) 



112 



Route 13. — Colerame to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



Conveyances. 
daily. 



To Bally money 



Excursions. — 

1. Fairhead. 

2. Cushendun. 

3. Annoy. 

4. Caxrick-a-rede. 

5. Rathlin. 

Distances. — Ballintoy, 4 m. ; Giant's 
Causeway, 11 J; Fairhead, 5; Cushen- 
dun, 12 : Cushendall, 17; Ballymoney, 
17 ; Eatlilin Island, 6 ; [which place is 
very seldom visited, though it is highly 
worth both the time and trouble. 
The weather is of course the main 
point on which the excursion hinges, 
as if stormy the sail or row across the 
Race of Sleuck-na-Massa, or the 
valley of the sea, is unpleasant, if not 
dangerous. At ebb tide the opposing 
waters form a very rough sea, which 
was anciently called the Caldron 
of Brecain, owing to the drowning 
of Brecain, son of Nial of the Nine 
Hostages, together with his fleet of 
50 curraghs. Rati din, Reachrainn, or 
Baghery Island, the Ricina of Pto- 
lemy, is of considerable extent, of the 
shape of a finger bent at right angles 
(or, as Sir W. Petty quaintly describes 
it, of an " Irish stockinge, the toe of 
which pointeth to the main lande"), 
measuring from E. to W. about 4 m. 
Its singular position between Ireland 
and Scotland, its ancient remains* 
and its natural beauties, all combine 
to make it a very interesting visit. 
St. Columb founded a church here in 
the 6th centy., an honour which may 
be attributed to its position between 
Staffa and Ireland ; but the same 
cause operated prejudicially when 
the Danes invaded the north, as 
the island had then to bear the first 
brant of their savage assaults. Later 
on it was so repeatedly ravaged by 
the English and Scotch that in 1580 
it was totally uninhabited. Rathlin 
is connected with the fortunes of 
Robert Bruce, w T ho for a long period 
sought concealment in the castle 
which still bears his name, and in 
which the well-known episode of the 



spider and the web occurred. There 
is but one harbour in the island, viz. in 
Church Bay , and even this is untenable 
during westerly gales, to which it is 
freely exposed. Near the landing- 
place is the residence of the Rev. R. 
Gage, who, as proprietor of the 
island, lives amongst his people, and 
exercises patriarchal rule and in- 
fluence. In this respect Rathlin was 
not always so fortunate, as at one 
time we read in the Ulster Visita- 
tion, " The isle of Raghline, possesste 
by the Earle of Antrym, has neither 
vicar nor curate, it not being able to 
mayntayne one." f m. from the bay on 
the E. side is Bruce's Castle, or what 
is left of it — a small portion of wall, 
situated on a lofty precipice, nearly 
insulated from the mainland by a 
deep chasm. The chief beauty of 
Rathlin is the cliffs, which maintain 
a considerable elevation all round, 
the highest point being at Slieve-a- 
carn, 447 ft., on the N.W. coast, while 
there is scarce any part lower than 
180 ft. The general structure of the 
rocks is chalk and basalt, the latter 
assuming, in some places, the same 
columnar aspect as on the opposite 
coast of Fairhead. At Doon Point, 
nearly 2 m. to the S. of Bruce's* 
Castle, they are most peculiar, having 
a curved form, " as if they slid over 
while in a state of softness, and took 
the inclination necessary to their 
descent. At the base there is a 
small mole, composed of compact 
erect columns, forming a natural 
pier." — Doyle. There are also some 
singular caverns in the basalt to the 
S. of Church Bay ; and at Runas- 
cariff the cliffs assume appearances 
similar to those at Doon. The island 
contains 33G8 acres, of which about 
one-fourth is arable and pasture ; the 
inhabitants are a simple quiet race, 
who chiefly gain their subsistence 
by fishing, gathering kelp, and grow- 
ing barley, the last two of which are 
taken to Campbellton and Glas- 
gow.] 

[A second excursion should be 



I 



Route 13. — Fairhead — Arm 



113 



mult rtakt d t" Fairlu . d or Benmore 
i t*dium Promontorium of 
demy , whose magnificenl escarp- 
riking feature in the drive 
I ! llintoy to Ballycastle, and 
thy finish to the basaltic 
\. coast. 
9 ft. in height, of which 
rly half is occupied by a 
mural p ormous grei n- 

c ilunms, many of them up- 
:. in width. From the 
Brobdingnag piers, a 
debris runs at a sharp 
m down to th( A >t« < ]» 

path, c;. FhirLi ith," 

- Path. a through 
toss which ;i gi- 
i : by follow- 
ing j t in a good 

of the pro- 

ry. a the sum- 

• .-nrj.; panora- 

< ml-] island of 

»nsid< ion of 

. [slay, ti,.' Mull of 

' I in cl( -iirwi . therthi Paps 

W„ the eye 

l inseway, 

i ishowi d Looming 

Tin re 3 

«'li t lie of 

_-!i 1 ; lose n» the 

• it by 
2, 
i : 

'; Mawr, 

tie 

ould I..- men- 

the 

Ev< ii 

ds 

. 6 1»« ds of 
cos» I. which 

the lower om 
ic. T hif of 

•li have all 

would be in if 

n. 

arly [ in, 



for in 1770, when an English com- 
pany hud taken possession of them, the 
colliers employed discovered a long 
gallery, and chambers containing 

baskets, tools, and candles, the 
wicks of which were formed of rags; 
there were also barrows made of 
boulders of basalt, clearly proving 1 1 io 
v< ry early efforts thai were made to 

gel the coal. Mr. Hamilton also men- 
tions that in the mort; r of which 
Bruce's Castle in Rathlin [slandw 
built, cinders of coal werefonnd. The 
besi way ti» visil this coasl is to take 
a boat from Ballycastle, row round 
the head, and land at Murlough Bay, 
returning by fool along the coi at.] 

[The antiquarian may spend an 
interesting day in visiting Armoy 

anc. Airthear - maighe), 7 m. to 
the B.W., the road thither run- 
ning at the foot of Knocklayd. In 
the ch.-yard is a round tower, 35 
ft. high, by 46 round, with a cir- 
cular doorway. A forrm r rector sur- 
mounted it with a dome of wood and 
stone, and restored it to its original 
purpose of a Cloig-theagh, by keep- 
ing the eh. bell in it. From Armoy, 
a by-road may be taken into the 
lonely vale of the Glenshesk, which 
- in the Sli Lve-an-Orra Mountain 

L678 ft. , a portion of a lofty chain 
intervening between Ballycastle and 

( n>h< nd.ill. On the 1. b.n',, he 

riv< r, '1 m. from Ballycastle, is the 
I jtle of ( Jobharj <• architect 

of Antrim Round Tow< r. II has, 
however, been proved by Dr. 1» 
to hav( b, en an old el, " proba-i 
bly ti. ilesia de I train Indict, of 
the Tripartite Life of St. Patrick." 
Large numbers of stone celts and 
we i found in this 

neighbourhood from time to tin 
proving the struggh s thai have hero 
taken place. On \}\>' summit of 

ocklayd i- a ! . cairn, Bald 
ha-. 1 to the in. mory of 

3 1 * aish princ insp< ction 

• he Abb. y of B p. Ill) 

will corn-hid rlc ] 

Hows 



114 



Route 13." 



hleraine to Belfast.' 



Ireland. 



the vale of the Carey as far as the 
hamlet of (29 m.) Ballyvoy, where a 
branch is given off along the coast 
past Torr and Runabay Heads to 

Cushendun. For pedestrians who 
wish to obtain coast views, this route 
is very advantageous, and only about 
1 m. longer. The car-road crosses 
ihe Carey, and strikes into the hills, 
passing along the base of Garneig- 
haneigh (1036' ft,). 

The view from the top of the 
hill overlooking Cushendun (anc. 
Bun-athaine-Duine) is very charm- 
ing, and embraces the little village 
with its pretty ch. and neat resi- 
dences nestling by the sea-shore, 
and on the banks of the Glendun, a 
river of some volume rising in the 
Slieve-an-Orra hills, and flowing for 
its whole course between mountains of 
considerable height. About 2 m. from 
the village it is crossed by a lofty 
and exceedingly picturesque via- 
duct, which, as seen from a distance, 
completely spans the vale. Close to 
the sea-shore (where the tourist will 
find more caves) are the residences 
of Xicholas Crommelin and B. C. 
Dobbs, Esqrs. 

Distance. — Cushendun from Cush- 
endall, 5 m. ; Ballycastle, 12. 

43 m. Cusliendall (a good Inn) is 
another pretty little town, placed 
close to the sea at the mouth of the 
Glenaan, amidst very lovely scenery. 
The Dall, a small stream from which 
the name is derived, also falls in here. 

There are slight ruins of a castle 
on a mount hard by. The road now 
greatly improves in scenery, running 
close to the waterside, and affording 
magnificent coast views, in which 
the cliffs of Red Bay are well set off 
by the chalk strata of Garron Point. 

The greater part of the district 
from Ballycastle to Cushendun, is 
composed of granitic rocks, oc- 
casionally interrupted by the coal- 
measures, and subsequently by the 
chalk. From the latter place, how- 
ever, the Devonian, or old Bed, 
rnuke their appearance, and are ex- 



posed in magnificent sections all 
along the coast, particularly at the 
romantic village of Glenariff, or 
Waterfoot (44J m.), in which the 
road is actually carried under short 
tunnels of old Bed. There are also 
several caves, which, as regards this 
series of rocks, are somewhat un- 
usual, as they are generally found in 
the mountain limestone. 

Bed Bay is one of the most pic- 
turesque spots in the whole route. 
It is an irregular semicircle sur- 
rounded by cliffs ; at one corner 
are the white houses of the village, 
situated just where the glen of the 
Glenariff .opens up into the moun- 
tains, which are here of a consi- 
derable height. Immediately over 
the village are the escarpments of 
Lurigethan (1154 ft.), while Crocha- 
lough (1304), and Trostran (1817), 
the highest of the chain, close the 
view. The red sandstone now shortly 
disappears, giving place to the chalk 
cliffs, which have been blasted to 
form the magnificent terrace-road, 
executed by the perseverance and 
genius of Mr. Turnley. 

Isolated columns of chalk stand 
fantastically -by the side of the sea- 
shore, by the side of which the road 
runs closety, presenting sea views 
that are seldom surpassed. 48 j m. 
at Clogh-a-stucan, one of the most 
peculiar of these columns, the road 
trends to the S., and passes Garron 
Toiver, the castellated residence of 
the Marquis of Londonderry, who 
possesses in this and the neighbour- 
ing county of Deny very large es- 
tates. Close to Garron Point is the 
rock of Drummail, or Dunmaul, the 
summit of which is crowned by a 
fort, said by tradition to have been 
the locality where all the Irish rents 
were paid. Prom hence too the 
Danish ravagerstook their departure. 
Continuing under the escarpments of 
Knockore (1179 ft.), which are every 
now and then interrupted by a lovely 
dell, we come to (51 m. rt.) Drumna- 
sole (J. Turnley, Esq)., one of the 



I 



13. — Carnlough—Larne. 



115 



most beautiful of the many beautiful 

1" ; this district. 

Qi. ( irnlough, a good Tim 
pi id cheerful looking watering- 

place, b wn up under the fosl - 

I iondonderry family, 
1 ii pi' i tram-road for 

bringing the limestone from I 

has the r< commenda- 

nery,smooth b ach, 

A small 

- i hi iv, rising 

ills i>\' Collin Top 1 1:26 ft. . 

it. an wind 

rist 

! valley of 

- eluded than 

W < rnlough, 

I . ( rlenarm 

■ in II 

1 with a graceful 

nee 

lonuell, Earls 

- in a 

side of 

i is entered 

N".sideofthe brid 

o 

1 1 and 

mix; rers, para- 

igh the ex- 

ry are >n\'- 

n for ihi- 

?. The tourist 

• r- 

walk down i 

. in I of 

hi mm< d 

200 i 
i inhabited 

' /. 

■ D 

i 

! 1 ' m . ; I 

I, IS; I n- 

. — 

l 

em- 



steep hill. This was for long the 
only road h> the place, but ii was 
superseded in 183 1 by the magnificent 
scheme oi' Mr. Bald, who, by blast- 
ing the chalk c . and allowing the 
deoris to serve as a bulwark against 
the sea, obtain* d room for a broad 
r al, equal in every respect to the* 
one completed by Mr. Turnley. The 
pedestrian, however, will do well to 
take the old road, which keeps high 
ground until about half way to 
Lame. Seme miles out a, \\\o 

two solitary Hulin or Maiden ro< 
are conspicuous, b fixed light-- 

house on each, 84 and 94 ft. re- 
ctively aim, ter. 

63 in. a! is a very fine 

development of c3 ; on 

the rt. in the escarpments of Knock 
i > 1 1 1 1 and Sallagh i, which are 

shaped Like an amphitheatre, and on 
1. in Ballygalley Head, where the 
basaltic columns are again visible. 

There are remains of a fort on an 
insulated rock between the road and 
the sea, and also of the Elizabethan 
manor-house of the Shaws : on 
rt. is Carncastle Lodge (J. Agnew, 
Esq. . The road now winds along- 
Le of Drains Bay, and, passing 
rh a has iltic turmel known as 
Black Cave, arrives al 

in. Larih \, Latharaa) 

Hotel: King's An . a prettily 

1 town, which, though not 

in it- 
;'. is a convenii nl point from 
wh.nee to explore [sland Magee. 
Prom th and-locked 

harbour a very c< rable trade 

has been c 1 on hire, particu- 
1 ily in the ;n ; f lime, v, bich is 

I al Maghera- 

morne.aboul I m. to the S. A rec< ul 

opened rly, conn with 

will doubtless Largely 

proi pei ity of the port. 

I U id the ferry the 

. from 
it- shape call d < a a reaping- 

the 

cui • , which 



116 



Route 13. — Coleraine to Belfast. 



Ireland. 



in former days was celebrated under 
the name of Older fleet Castle. 
Henry III. granted the possession 
of this district to the Scotch family 
of Bissett, who built the fortress for 
the protection of their property, 
though it was subsequently forfeited 
on account of their participation in 
rebellion. The only historical event 
of importance connected with the 
castle is the landing of Bruce (1315), 
with an army of 6000 men, for the in- 
vasion of Ireland. Kaphanus inari- 
timus grows on the Curraun, near 
the salt-works. 

Distances. — Carrickfergus, 14| m. 
by rail; Glenarm, 11 J; Magliera- 
morne,4; Glynn, 2. 

Conveyances. — Gar to Bally castle ; 
rail to Carrickfergus and Belfast ; 
steamer daily to Stranraer. 

Excursions. — 

1. Magheraniorne and Glynn. 

2. Glenarm. 

3. Island Magee. 

4. Carrickfergus. 

[1 m. from the town is a ferry (the 
rights of which were granted, toge- 
ther with the castle of Olderfleet, 
to the Chichester family in the 
17th centy.) between the so-called 
Island Ma2;ee and the mainland. 
In reality it is only a narrow pro- 
montory about 5 m. in length and 2 
in breadth, running parallel with 
and separating the mainland from 
the ocean. " The inhabitants are all 
of Scottish descent, and are still 
thoroughly Scotch in dialect, man- 
ners, and customs ; they are a re- 
markably intelligent race ; and it is 
worthy of notice, that out of a popu- 
lation of nearly 3000, no person 
living can recollect an instance of a 
native of this place being imprisoned 
for or convicted of any criminal 
offence.' ' — Hall. 

It was held by the singular tenure 
of a goshawk and a pair of gloves. 
On the E. coast the scenery is very 
fine, particularly at the Gohbins, a 
range of high cliffs, of basaltic cha- 
racter, and perforated by 7 caves. 



The W. coast is not remarkable for 
anything but its mud banks, particu- 
larly towards the S., where the shores 
of Lough Larne approximate. 

The antiquarian will find near the 
landing-place a cromlech formed of 
six upright stones supporting a large 
flat slab nearly 6 ft. in length. Some 
years ago several gold ornaments, 
including a torque, were dug up 
near this cromlech. " There is an 
ancient Pagan remain called Carn- 
doo, or locally ' The Abbey,' on the 
face of Ballybooley Hill (near Port- 
muck), consisting of several huge 
stones ranged in a circle."— Doyle. 
At Brown's Bay on the N. is a large 
rocking-stone, which was believed to 
tremble at the approach of a crimi- 
nal. Good as was Island Magee as 
regards moral character, it had an 
unfortunate notoriety for witchcraft 
and superstition, the last trial which 
took place in Ireland being that of a 
native of this district, who was pil- 
loried at Carrickfergus in 1711.] 

Immediately after leaving Larne 
the road crosses the Larne Water, 
which rises about 4 m. S.E. at Ceaun 
Gubha, the "Hill of Grief." Here 
Tuathal Teachtmar was slain in 
battle, a.d. 106, by Mai MacBoch- 
raide, King of Ulster. 

69 J m. at Glynn are the ruins of a 
ch., the nave possessing square- 
headed windows of an earlier date 
than those of the chancel, which are 
pointed. The latter is evidently an 
addition. [From this village a road 
shorter by 2 m., but not so practica- 
ble, runs inland to Carrickfergus, 
rejoining the coast-road at Eden, 
and passing en route Glenoe, a 
very picturesque village in a deep 
glen, in which a waterfall adds to 
the beauty of the scene. A new ch. 
has been built in the vicinity by the 
exertions of the late Lord Dun- 
gannon. 

Passing through the hamlet of 
Bel toy, we have on rt. Lough Mourne, 
the waters of which are said to cover 
a large town, which was thus over- 



\n. 



Route 13. — Carrickfergus t 



117 



wl. ' i at the r< qu< art i f a pilgrim 
who had been refused hospitality, 
and had cursed it at his departure. 

leu.] Between Glynn and 
M >rue House l\ M'Garel, 

|. , near which arc the exten- 
v- lime-works before mentioned, 
tin ist will notice the effects of 

a 1 _ ■ Landslip which in 1834 car- 
rid away the ouch-mad. A narrow 
ip of Lias nm- alongside the Lougb 
and will yield a number o\' charac- 
teristic lias fossils to the collector — 
r atacrinites, Plagiostoina, 
rpluea, Aminonit< . 

ly opposite the commence- 
bhe Lough Lame arc the vil- 
ry a station on the 
. and the rui Temple- 

die of 
in religion in Ireland, 
firsl congregation was 
13 by R< v. Edward 
1 The living of Kilroot was 

ippointment obtained by 
1 i Swift, d resigned 

'its oncong - 

d solitud . I to the high read 

dell of the Salt Hole, the 

ey McDonnell's inta- 

in 1597, when Sir 

torof Carrick- 

to finish I 

i itt d at ( rlynn. 

of R< v. D. 
il. 

I ' 
through Island 
in. Aboul y na. 1. • 
remains 

on t 
N*. 1 in. furtl 
pro] ry of 

! I 1, well worth visiting I 
;1 <•] T 

I and My 
1 attr 

ddenly ap- 
tly r< c 

the 

■ ' 



taken advantage to pui their wir< 

in connection with Carrickfergus. 

79 in. rt. are i\w demesnes of 
Bellahill M. Dalway, Esq), Castle 
Dobbs C. Debits, Esq.), and Or- 
lands (J. Smyth, Esq.); and soon 
afterwards, passing the village of 
Eden, between which and Kilroot 
the botanist will find Orobanche 
rubra, Carex Buxhaumi, and Oalama 
grostis, we arrive at 

82 in. the time-honoured pori of 
Carrickfergus I anc. Carraic - Fear- 
gusa Hotel: Victoria, very poor) 
Pop. 4028 . The town is mean and 
dirty, bul its situation on the shoi 
of the Belfast Lough, goes far to 
redeem these faults : added to which. 
its historic ass iciations and its well- 
preserved remains will amply repay a 
day Bpenl here. These remains arc — 
1. The Castle; 2. Walls; 3. Church. 

The Castle is a magnificent speci- 
men of an inhabited Anglo-Norman 
fortn ss, and was built by De Courcy 
in 1178, to protect his Ulster posses- 

ns. It changed hands, however, 
during the invasion of Bruce, who; 
having captured Olderfleet, occu- 
pied Carrickfergus after a long and 

irited del'' -nee by the English garri- 
son under Mandeville. After I)i lice's 
fall, in the battle near Dundalk, the 
ain reverted to the English, 
and. v i few occasional chang 
into Scotch or Irish posa ssion during 
the troubled times of 1641, remaim d 
with them. Mention Bhould also 1 e 
made of the attack by the French, 
under Thurot, in L760, though their 
bucc< bs was but shortlived. The 
squadron under Elliott over- 

■k the French near the [ale of 
Man, and during th< tneni 

it followed Thurol was killed. 
Tl Le occupi trong position 

on a rock overlooking the Lough, 

1 at high water is surround d on 

i he 
S. The entr.iit •«• from 
land is through a fine 

by a 
called a Half-moon. T. 



118 



Route 13. — Colerainc to Belfast 



Ireland. 



visitor will notice the usual defen- 
sive appliances, such as portcullis, 
embrasures for fire-arms, and the 
apertures for pouring melted lead, 
&c., upon the assailants. Within the 
gates is the lower yard or ballium, 
containing guard-rooms and bar- 
racks ; and to the S. again is the 
upper yard, from which rises the 
most conspicuous portion of the cas- 
tle — the great donjon or keep, a 
huge square tower of 5 stories. 
" The largest room, called Fergus's 
Dining-room, was in the 3rd story, 
with some circular windows ; it was 
25 ft. high, 38 ft. broad, 40 ft. long ; 
the ground story was bombproof, 
and within the keep was a draw-well 
37 ft. deep, but now nearly choked 
up with rubbish." - — M'Skimmins 
History of Carrickfergus. The walls 
of the castle follow the sinuosities of 
the rock all round. Since 1843 it 
bus been garrisoned for the crown 
by a detachment of artillery and pen- 
sioners, and has lately been refitted 
with guns of newer type and calibre. 
The visitor is allowed to inspect the 
whole, with the exception of the 
keep, part of which is used as a 
magazine. 

The walls have to a great extent 
disappeared, but they may be traced 
on the W. side of the town, and 
partly on the N., where a round 
arched gateway still exists. 

The ch , dedicated to St. Nicholas, 
is a cruciform building, surmounted 
by a broad spire with a balustrade 
round the base. Notice the singular 
Elizabethan style of the N. transept, 
with its arable ends. In the interior 
are some r markable monuments, 

pecially one to Lord Donegal, with 
2 principal kneeling figures repre- 

uting Sir Arthur Chichester, first 
Earl of] his wife. Below 

is the effigy of Sir John Chichester, 
Who was taken in the ambuscade 
at Salthole, and beheaded. It is 

id that " Sorley McDonnell, being 
in Carrickfergus, went to sec the 
monuments in the ch., and, upon Sir 



John's effigy being pointed out, he 
said, ' How the deil cam he to get 
his head again? for I am sure I ance 
tak it frae him.' " 

The transept is divided from the 
nave by 2 round-headed arches and 
round piers. The ch. is lighted by a 
3-light window on N. of chancel, a 
stained-glass S. window, and 2 sin- 
gular rose lights on either side of the 
organ. A subterranean passage now 
blocked up communicates with a 
Franciscan monaster} 7- , which for- 
merly existed some way from the 
church. 

A pleasant and useful custom 
exists of the bell ringing at 6 morn- 
ing and evening, for the use of the 
workmen in the town, thus asso- 
ciating with the dignity of labour the 
practical remembrance of religion. 

The geologist may pay a visit to 
the salt-mines at Duncrue, that 
lie to the W. of the town. They 
are situated in the triassic sandstone 
deposit, which borders the Belfast 
Lough all the way from White Head 
to Belfast. 

Conveyances. — From Carrickfergus 
to Belfast, Antrim, and Larne, by 
rail. 

Distances. — Belfast, 9 J m. ; An- 
trim, 15 J ; Larne, 15 J; Glenarm, 26. 

Leaving on 1. the ancient site of 
the Abbey of Woodburn, the tra- 
veller arrives at the Junction of the 
Antrim and Coleraine Bly., and is 
soon deposited at 

91J m. Belfast (Ete. 5). 



' 



Route U.— Dublin to Gal 









rTE 14. 

DUBLIN TO MULLINGAR, 
ATHLONE, BALLINA5LOE, AND 
GALWAY. 

of t' ate, 12 I m., 

the INJ d Gk 
in 1 852, i ■ 
trunk lines of Ire- 

a I 

I 

L toiL 

it lie 

iii- 
Mr. And 

3 or 8 
impai 

I 

a prel 

; 






and on rt. the villages of aevin, 
with its cemel ad botanical gar- 

dens,and Finglas, also the observatory 
of Dunsink, all of which are adjacent 
to the valley of the Tolka river. They 

ie been described in Rte. 1. A 
fine background is afforded on the 1. 
by the ranges of the Dublin and 
Wicklow mountains, which, however, 

i a few m radually trend to 

s. 

id. Blanchardstoum Stat. H< 
is ;: large religious house for nuns ; 
1 adjoining the village is Abbots- 
n. i he residence el' .1. Hamilton, 

;.. M.P. 

[1 in. 1., occupying the summit of 
Knockmaroon Hill, CastlektiQcilt, a 
11 village, with the nuns of a 
merry held by Hugh de 
T, rrel against Edward Bruce in 1316. 
It was «>n this occ ptured, and 

tin in 1642 by ti e Duke of Albe- 
marle, " wh< v in the assault so 
its defenders, and subsequently 
ay more." The worthy 
of Dublin will doubtless find 
ater a strawberry - 

for which the valley of the 
. and which exh nd 
for a le distance on i 

ride mi" i!i s river.] 

kable fora vi 
i" :'» in. in length, 
!j> or middle carbomi 
[From t 
1 mblin and 
i Co. 1 toNa vim ;i 

h 1 boyne 
1 ;• of tie ni 

1 in. : • ruin- of tho 

d in Rte. 15. 

x d- 
I d( ra of 



129 



Route 14. — Dublin to Galway. 



Ireland. 



of Earl to the family of Bingham, is 
charmingly situated, about 1 m. to 
the 1. on the S. hank of the Liffev, 
here crossed by a single-arched stone 
bridge of TOO ft. span, with iron balus- 
trades. Lncan was celebrated for its 
spa, though fashion has long ago de- 
serted it, " Its fame was derived from 
its sulphuretted hydrogen water, 
flowing from a bed of calp limestone, 
which contains pyrites." — Knox. 
The banks of the river are charm- 
ingly set off by ornamental parks 
and residences, amongst which are 
Lncan House (C. Colthurst, Esq.), 
"Woodville House (Sir Hopton Scott), 
and St. Edmonsbury House (W. 
Berwick, Esq.). In the grounds of 
the former house, into which visitors 
are admitted, are the remains of the 
fortress of the Sarsfields, the ances- 
tors of the Binghams. 

[The tourist who may wish to 
return to town by a different route 
can go across from Lncan to the other 
stat. on the Great Southern and 
Western Ely. (Rte. 25), distant 1 J m. 
He may also proceed from the village 
to Leixlip, visit the salmon-leap, and 
rejoin the Midland hue at Leixlip 
Stat,] 

10 m. rt. (at winch point the tra- 
veller enters Kildare county) are the 
partial remains of a curiously tall 
tower, known as Confey Castle, sup- 
posed to have been one of many that 
were erected by the early colonists to 
protect themselves from the attacks 
of the native Irish. When in pre- 
servation, it consisted of a massive 
square tower of 5 stages, with turrets 
at the N. and W. angles, and had a 
principal entrance under a semi- 
circular archway. 

11 m. Leixlip Stat. [J m. from 
i on 1. is the ancient little town 

of Leixlip, situated at the confluence 
of the Rye Water with the Liffey, 
i is crossed by a stone bridge of 
3 arches. Overlooking the wooded 
iks of the river is the modernized 
, flanked on the W. by a cir- 
cular, and on the E. by a square 



tower, the building of which is attri- 
buted to Adam Fitz-Hereford, one 
of the earliest of Anglo-Norman 
settlers, and a follower of Strong- 
bow. It is now the residence of 
C. P. Hoffman, Esq. The chief part of 
the property round Leixlip formerly 
belonged to the Earls of Kildare, 
from whom it passed into the Co- 
nolly family. A short distance up 
the stream is the famous salmon- 
leap, where the Liffey tumbles over 
a broad though not high ledge of 
limestone rocks in a very picturesque 
cataract — a favourite resort of picnic- 
lovers from Dublin — 

" For Leixlip is proud of its close shady 
bowers, 
Its clear falling waters and murm'rmg 
cascades, 
Its groves of fine myrtle, its beds of sweet 
flowers, 
Its lads so well dress'd, and its neat 
pretty maids." 

O'Keefe. 

The visitor must not found his 
hopes too strongly on seeing the 
salmon ascend the ledge "per sal- 
tum/' as it is only at certain times 
and seasons that the operation is pei- 
formed. The botanist will find Hie- 
raeium hirsutum growing near the 
Leap. 

1 m. higher up the river is crossed 
at Newbridge by a very ancient 
bridge of 4 arches (the 2 middle 
ones being pointed), built in 1308 by 
John le Decer, then mayor of Dublin, 
and believed to be the oldest struc- 
ture of the kind now existing in 
Ireland. On the rt. bank of the 
Liffey are the grounds of St. IVul- 
stans (R. Cane, Esq.), containing 
some interesting Dec. gateways, the 
remains of the priory founded here 
by Adam Fitz-Hereford, at the be- 
ginning of the 13th cent., in honour 
of St. Wulstan, Bishop of Wor- 
cester, who had been just before ca- 
nonized. On the opposite side of 
the stream is Castletown House, the 
seat of Thos. Con oily, Esq., M.P., 
whose ancestor, the Right Hon. Wil- 
liam Conolly, was Speaker of the 



IrF!..\ 



Route 11. — Maynoi ih. 



121 



House of Commons in the time of 

n Anne. The house is ;i fine 

- mewhat overgrown build- 

ting of a C4 ntre connected 

with 1 wings by semicircular colon- 

nad< p. Bv a favourite Irish fiction, ii 

1 to contain a window for 

i very day in the y< ar, just as all the 

lak< - are said to be Furnished with 

ads. The grounds contain 

- »me splendid cedar-tre< - 

in. from Leixlip is the pretty 

vi' ' noted for being 

!« nee of Miss Esther Van- 

_ u the illfa ted Vanessa of Dean 

6 rift. Fr< >m hence the tourisl can 

turn to Dublin from Hazlehatch 

it. \- .on the Great Southern 

] 

valley of the Rye 
W a com] \ ith an aqueduct 

100 ft. height for the accommo- 
dation i canal, and skirting the 
I rton on rt., the line 

15 in. Maynooth Hotel: Leinster 

Ana- . a small, tolerably built town, 

ataining sev< ral interesting obj< i 

Pop. 1497). I ospicuous from the 

rly. i- the massif er of the castle, 

nied for its strength and 

during its tenure by 

ul family Kildaiv. It 

s said • n built, or more 

bly n 1. in J [26 by 

•I and remained in 

tin* | i • , . raids 

until • 1 [( nry VI 1 1., * hen, 

the reb< llion of 
I. rd I - I aid, bett 

known as Silken Thomas, from his 

of Bilk, it 
B i William Brei 
whom it \s;i> treacherously 
d by < stopher Pares* . I 

1 •• raldim s. The 
. however, rightly * i - • d, 
made t<> him 
i 
I i nin-. which 
v kept in ord< 
I .. • . ' .win r 



the soil, consist of a mas p, 

with a considerable extent of out- 
works, strengthened at interv; 
towers. The importance of the f< r- 
tress at the time of its capture is 
thus quaintly described: "Greate 
and riche was the Bpoile— such store 
ofbeddes, so many goodly hangings, 
so riche a wardrob, such brave furni- 
ture, as truly it was accompted, for 
householde Btuffe and utensil-, one 
of the richest Earle his homes 
under the crowne of England e." — 
Holinshed. Hard by is the'Colleg 
which, from the political feelings 
called into play, has made Maynooth 
famous in modern [rish history. A 
college was founded here in L513 l»y 
(orald 8th Earl <>t' Kildare, who ap- 
pointed provost and vice-provost, and 
endowed it with lands round the 
tower of Taghadoe. It b< came, how- 
ever, an institution for the education 
of Irishmen in 1795, in consequence 
of the suspension of the continental 
colleges from the continuance of 
the war. The former building was 
unsightly and inconvenient, being 
in fact a series of additions made 
at different times to a house built 
by Lord Leinster's butler; but all 
this has since been remedi< d by the 
beautiful designs of Pugin, consist- 
ing of an E. Eng. quadrangle, 340 
by 300 ft. The college of Maynooth, 

• r since its foundation in 17. 
has been maintained by grants, first 
from the [rish and afterwards from 
the [mperial Parliament, the annual 
vote from 1808 to 1813 being 82832., 
afterwards raised to 89282. By an 
act passed in the present reign, the 
college was permanently endow* I 
for the maintenance and education 
of 500 students and of 20 Beni 
scholars on the foundation by Lord 
Dunboyne, b< which 30,0002. 

was Bel aparl for the erection of the 
building The course of 
study requires * years for its com- 
tion, and n<> student is admitt< tl 
ep1 he be intended for the Irish 
I. Adjoining t 1 

o 



122 



Route 14. — Dublin to Galway. 



Ireland. 



is the parish eh., possessing a very 
massive tower, and some Dee. 
w indows. 

Close to the town is the entrance 
gate to Carton, the seat of the Dnke 
of Leinster, Ireland's only Duke. Itis 
a handsome Grecian building, consist- 
ing of centre with wings, connected 
by corridors, and possessing in the 
interior a library and some choice 
pictures. The entrance is by a 
porch surmounted by a triangular 
pediment, in the tympanum of which 
are the arms of the family. The 
park is very extensive, and is more 
thoroughly English in the character 
of its timber and scenery than in 
almost any estate in Ireland. Land- 
scape-gardening has been carried to 
a high pitch, and every point has 
been seized which could be made 
available for effect. The property of 
Carton formerly belonged to the 
Talbots, a younger branch of the 
Talbots of Malahide, and was pur- 
chased in 1738 by the 19th Earl of 
Kildare from a Mr. Ingoldsby. The 
mansion was designed by Cassels, a 
celebrated Dublin architect, who 
built the town houses of the Leinster 
and Waterford families, as well as 
the Lying-in Hospital. 

The visitor to Carton by road 
from Leixlip need not return by the 
same gate, but may proceed direct 
to Maynooth. 

[A few m. to the S. of Maynooth is 
the round tower of Taghadoe, remark- 
able for being of greater dimensions 
than is usual in such structures. The 
college of Maynooth was endowed 
with the lands round this tower.] 

19i m. Kilcoek, a little town on 
the rt., need not detain the tourist, 
as it possesses nothing save a cele- 
brity for provincial races. 

A coach leaves Ferndock Stat., 
21 V m., every afternoon for Trim, 
11 m. (Bte. 15). 

25 J in. L, very near the line, is 
Cloncurry ruined eh., and a singular 
mound, probably of a sepulchral cha- 
racter. The traveller will notice 



with regret that the pretty English 
scenery through which he lias been 
hitherto passing has been gradually 
changing and giving place to me- 
lancholy and dreary bog, a por- 
tion of the bog of Allen, continu- 
ing for the greater portion of the 
way to Mullingar. The beautiful 
though distant ranges of the Dublin 
mountains have also nearly dis- 
appeared in the distance. 

26i Enfield (Bte. 15), a neatly 
kept little town, where the tourist 
who wishes to explore the archaeo- 
logical treasures of the Boyne will 
have to leave the rly. 

Distances. — Edenderry, 11 m. ; 
Trim, 11 ; Carbury, 7. 

30J m. Moyvalley, close to which 
is Ballina, the seat of Right Hon. 
More O'Ferrall, M.P. ; and at 38 m. 
the line crosses the river Boyne, 
which, as far as picturesque features 
are concerned, will probably dis- 
appoint. In this early part of its 
course it is boggy and sluggish, a 
condition which the operations of 
the Draining Commissioners have not 
helped to remove, but have rather 
increased. About 2 m. to the 1. the 
tower of Clonard eh. is visible (Bte. 
15). 

At 36 m. Hill of Down Stat., 
the traveller may have an oppor- 
tunity of examining the ingenious 
manner in which Mr. Hemans, the 
engineer of the rly., overcame the 
difficulties which presented them- 
selves. " In these bogs he has relied 
wholly on a careful and complete 
system of drainage, whereby the 
upper crust is so perfectly hardened 
and dried, that the rails and heavy 
trains are supported upon it by a 
light framework of timber." The 
Hill of Down itself is formed of 
drift gravel. 

41 m. KiUucan Stat. (Hotel : 
Moore's.) The town, a little to the 
rt., contains nothing of interest. In 
the neighbourhood are Biversdale 
(E. G. Briscoe, Esq.), Grangemore 
(J. Briscoe, Esq.), Hyde Park (G. 



Ireland. Route 14. — Mullingar— Lough Ennel. 






1 >' \ Esq.), Huntingdon House 

W < Mini::in, Esq. , Clonlosl J, 

nt. Es [. . Lisnabin («. Purdon, 

. Killynon R. Reynell, Esq.). 

A g ■! \ iew is obtained from Knock- 

elieban Hill IT:; ft. 

I monotony of the bog now 

- more interrupted, and the 

■untry again assumes a cultivated 

• 1< <1 appearance, lill we arrive 

rtant inland town of, 

m., Mull Hob / : Murray's 

. IS , on< i»t" the most extensive 

[reland Pop.542 

and tlie usual county 

bi \ -'iiaatli are also 

re. It is the centre of 

in butter, wool, frieze, 

which i \- 

ral dai s, being laid 

N Mullingar, both in the 

of its buildings 

of all arena cal 

-■■• in to beof modem 

li it was in reality one 

si ancient of palatinate 

t«- s I by the English settl 

in M< "!i, and p atle, a 

St Augustine, 

Dominicans, of 

i buildings there are now no 

I • :ene of an ob- 

lit in !:;:;:•. when Lord 

I tier was attacked and slain 

1 ill l;it< p d; 

• rinckel 

William UL's 

of Athloi 

• still ke< 
•r which it- cen- 
tal positi* ticularly 
T] in the im- 

lilxmrhood is pretty 
I is k er weft 

!<• lak( 
fibrd- 
of 
I j I, Owe! 

i I ■ i : ■ ■ . l • 

• a r.niM-1 2 in. 

the 

Brw ; 

I ; ' 



whole district was formerly known 
as M The Country ofthe Waters." 

The tourist should visit Multi- 
t'arnhani Abbey on the Longford 
Rly. Rte. 18 .' 

I own yances. - Rail to Dublin, Ath- 
lone, Gal way, Ca van, Longford, and 
Bligo. Cars to Ballymahon and Kil- 
beggan. 

Distances, — Longford, ^<; m. ; Ca- 
van, 36; Multifarnham, 7 J ; Dublin, 
50 : Athlone, 28 ; Ballymahon, 18 ; 
Kilbeggan, 14; Lough Owel, 2: Lough 
Enn< i. 2. 

Excursions. — 

1. Lough Ennel, 

2. Lough ( >wel and Multifarnham. 
A pleasant excursion may be tal 

to the head of Lough Ennel, »»ii< r- 
wise called Belvidere Lake, from 
the mansion and estate of the same 
name overlooking it. It is a pretty 
lake of about 5 in. in length, well 
wooded on one side, though not pre- 
iting any scenery to entitle it to 
higher praise. The fishing is good, 
and the trout run from 1 to L0 lbs., 
the best season being at the end 
of May and June, when the green 
drake is on the water. Th< 
are several residences on either 

hank : on the rt. are Lvnnhnnv J. 
Rutherford, Esq. . Bloomfield (Col. 
I ulfield , Belvidi re B. Marl< v. 
i Isq. , a seal of the Earl of I 
borough, in whose grounds is a Ian 

• ado-ruin intended for a prior] ; 
Rochforl House, an untenanted man- 
i belonging Sir Francis Hop- 
kii it., who, in consequence of 

an attempted assassination, suddenly 
abandom d it to reside elsewhen 

oeville House Hon. II. Parnell , 
Dunboden Pari Mrs I oj r), Gay- 
brook R. Smyth, Esq. , ( Sarrick 
W. I i therstonel augh, Esq. ; w hile 
«»n the W, side arc Lillipui Horn 
Had- Esq . Middleton Hon 
G. B yd, Esq. . Bellmounl A. I;, ill 
t I Ladestown J. Lyons, Esq. . 

A ■ in. tip c ".d. w hich has 

hiti.- rto kepi closely alongside ti 
rly., I it at BaUina Bridge ai I 

G 2 



124 



Route 14. — Dublin to Galwaij. 



Ireland. 



turns off X. to Longford. With an oc- 
casional view over the low shores of 
Lough Ennel on L, the rly. now 
passes through a less attractive 
country to 

58 m. Castletown, a small village 
on 1. The whole of this district is 
abundantly dotted with raths, re- 
lieved every few miles by a single 
ruined tower, marking the residence 
of some native chief. 

62 m. Streamtfown, a little beyond 
which, on 1., close to the line, is the 
ruined tower of Laragh. At this 
point is a junction with the Clara 
branch of the Great Southern and 
Western Hallway. 

67 m. 1. is the newly-drained 
lakelet of Balllnderry, where the 
labourers employed on the rly. works 
in 1850 discovered large quantities 
of bones of animals, associated with 
ancient spears and weapons, together 
with some very primitive canoes cut 
out of a single tree. 

88 m. Moate, a thriving little 
place, much frequented by Quakers, 
" taking its name from a moat or 
rath at the back of the town, in what 
was originally the territory of the 
McLoughlins, and which was called 
after Grace McLoughlin ' Grana oge,' 
or Grace's Moat." —Lewis. Close to 
the town are Moate Park (Lord 
Crofton) and Ballynagartry. Pass- 
ing 73 m. 1. Glynwood House, the 
t of J. Long worth, Esq., the tra- 
veller soon perceives on 1. the ap- 
proaching junction line of the South- 
Western line, and, crossing the noble 
stream of the Shannon, enters 

78 m. the city of Athlone (Hotel: 
Bergins", tolerably comfortable) 
(Rte. 25,, which has played a more 
important part in the history of Ire- 
land than any other town, with 
the exception perhaps of London- 
derry (Pop. 6227 . Although a set- 
tlement existed here, known by the 
name of " Ath-Luain," the ford of the 
moon, or, according to others, " Atli- 
Luan," the ford of the rapids, it was 
not until the reign of John that the 



castle was erected, and it became 
an important military station— so im- 
portant, indeed, that when Henry 
III. granted the dominion of Ireland 
to Prince Edward, Athlone was ex- 
pressly reserved. During the insur- 
rection of 1641 the castle and town 
under Lord Eanelagh were closely 
besieged by the Connaught men for 
22 weeks, until the garrison, reduced 
by famine and disease, was relieved 
by a convoy from the Dublin army ; 
and it was taken a second time 
by the Parliamentary army under 
Sir C. Coote. It was, however, during 
James II.'s reign that Athlone was 
the scene of such stirring events. 
Col. Grace then held it successfully 
for that king for 8 days against 
William III.'s army under Gen. Dou- 
glas, who retired to make way for a 
more formidable opponent, Gen. De 
Ginckeli, who occupied the eastern 
part of the town and commenced a 
cannonade lasting from the 20th to 
the 30th of June, 1691, during which 
time 12,000 cannon-balls and 600 
shells were thrown on to the castle 
and the Roscommon side of the town. 
So brave a defence was offered by 
the Irish army under Gen. St. Ruth, 
that it was at last determined to 
storm the city by assault, and the 
final struggle took place at the ford 
of the Shannon, the narrow bridge 
over which had been well-nigh shat- 
tered during the cannonade. " It 
was 6 o'clock : a peal from the 
steeple of the ch. gave the signal. 
Prince George of Hesse Darmstadt, 
and a brave soldier named Hamilton, 
whose services were afterwards re- 
warded with the title of Lord Boyne, 
descended first into the river. Then 
the grenadiers lifted the Duke of 
Wurtemburg on their shoulders, and 
with a great shout plunged 20 
abreast up to their cravats in water. 
The Irish, taken unprepared, fired 
one confused volley and fled, leaving 
their commander, Maxwell, a pri- 
soner. The victory was complete. 
Planks were placed on the bioken 



\XP. 



Route 11. — Athlone, 






- \ the bridge, and pontoons 

laid in the river, without any oppo- 

i the pari of the temm d 

prison. With the loss of 12 men 

I. -1 and about 30 wounded, the 
or\ish had in a few minutes forced 
their way into Connaught." — Mi - 
St. Ruth removed Ins forces 
mi hei \ ughrim, aboul 1 5 in. 

-. I i ; Athlone is gene- 
iv attributed to I rerweening 
conh'dei St. Ruth, who, intoxi- 

w itli a the failure of 

t attempt of the English 
^ roused from his slum- 
just in time to Learn the irre- 
iblo 1< sioned by his pre- 

\ ." Taybrr. Anamns- 
ing allusion is to this in ' The 

iriiit — 

England b i 

.\ n. wlvn I 
- * >f war ar<- nigh? 
pursue, 
tta ia near, afid that will 

ur aid would do much bet 
id your 

Tl, [naming history of 

- • struction of a 

. including the citadi 

•i of the 

during ;i thundi m. 

rly. stat., it is 

by the Shan- 

;t noble and Btately 

I • in 

hward eour Limerick. 

lern improvement ! 

i of the 
on the L bank, is 
ill-built and • ed ; but thi 

t the 
pulled d" 
■ t«. i \\;i\ for 1 

• 11- 
$ i'i«- 
i built in the 
nd v. uly 

id. The 1 

e:i-th 



the whole building lias been so 

tillered and added to at difl'« -n 

periods, that the onlyold portion is the 
keep, in the centre of the court, now 
used as a barrack. Like Mullingar, 
Athlone is a very important military 
station, and contains barracks which 
line the road from the rly. stat. 
tor 1500 men. besides 15,000 stand of 
arms, with hospital, and all the in- 
v adjuncts to a garrison town, 
defended by torts and redoubts on 
the Connaughl side of the town. The 
visitor will not tail to observe the 
singular l>nt graceful railway bridge 

r which the Dublin line is earned 
across the Shannon, "being a con- 
struction on the bowstring and lattice 
principle. It 18 entirely of iron, 
supported by 12 cylindrical piers, 
and is 560 ft in extreme length, 
including 2 spans over roads on 
either side of the river. It con- 
sists of 2 spans of L75, and 2 of 40 ft. 
each, the latter separated by a pier, 
formed by 4 cylinders, supporting a 
swivel, which admits of the naviga- 
tion of the adjacent opens." — Fraser. 
Athlone presents no archaeological 
remains, with the exception of the 

ile. or portion of the town wall 
of considerable height and thick- 
ness . and the doorway of the hoi 

in which ( len. ( rinckell resided. The 
churches are all modern, although 
it formerly p ed 2 or 3 oon- 

itual establishing nts. The pai 

eh., close to the hotel, rej< in 

2 tow< re, one of which i lated, 

and 1>. Longed to an earli< r building. 

I mveyances. -By rail to Dublin and 

to Roscommon and « rtle- 

bar, also by Great Southern Rly. 

I irlington en rout.- for the 

cond day rw - 
down the Shannon to ( Honmacnoise 
and Killakx Rte.34 , whence th< re i- 
rail to Limerick. I taily a I >ng- 
ford thron ihon. ( 

Parsonst* > -• n. 

T »iil -M. : Mnllin- 

Ballinai • . 13; Lissoy, 
common, U 



126 



Tloute 14. — Dublin to Galicay. 



Ireland. 



Castlereagh, 33; Clonmacnoise, SJ ; 
Banagher, 20; Killaloe, 59; Por- 
tuinna, 32}. 
Excursions. — 

1. Lough Rea and Rindown. 

2. Clonmacnoise. 

3. Ballyniahon. 

[An excursion should be made to 
the foot of Lough Ilea (auc. Ribh), 
one of those extraordinary though pic- 
turesque expansions of the Shannon 
which are so peculiar to this river, com- 
mencing about 2 m. above Athlone, 
and extending N. for several m. 
Although the character of the scenery 
is not hilly, yet the banks are in 
many parts richly wooded, as are also 
the numerous islands, some of them 
being of considerable size, and nearly 
all possessing some ecclesiastical 
ruins of ancient date. The principal 
are Inchcleraun, Saints' Island, Inch- 
turk, Inchmore, and Hare Island, 
the L'tter a perfect gem of woodland 
scenery, aided by art in the shape of a 
lodge belonging to Lord Castlemaine, 
who occasionally resides here.] [An- 
other visit may be paid to Bally- 
inalion 14 m., passing through the 
hamlet of Lissoy or Auburn. 3 m. 
at Ballykeeran the road crosses the 
Breensford river almost at its fall 
into one of the bays of Lough Rea. 
1 m. rt. is Moydrum Castle, the 
beautiful mansion of Lord Castle- 
maine. Following the shore of 
Lough Killinure, a small expansion 
of Lough Rea, the road passes 
through 5 m. Glassan, where a 
branch on 1. leads to the ferry to 
Hare Island. Go rt. is Waterstown 
House (Hon. T. Harris-Temple). 8 
in., the village of Lissoy or Auburn 
is supposed to have been deli- 
neated by the poet Goldsmith in 
his 'Deserted Village.' He is said to 
have been born in this spot, although 
a place called Pallas, near Bally- 
mahon, also claims the honour. It 
is not so clear that Lissoy was in 
J us mind when he wrote his cele- 
brated poem ; and although ' The 
Three Pigeons,' the apple-tree, 



" The never-failing brook, the busy mill, 
The decent church that topp'd the neigh- 
b'ring bill," 

have always been considered by en- 
thusiasts as identical with the subjects 
of the poem, it is more probable 
" that everything in it is English, the 
feelings, incidents, descriptions, and 
allusions. Scenes of the poet's youth 
had doubtless risen in his memory as 
he wrote, mingling with and taking 
altered hue from later experiences." — 
Forster's Life of Goldsmith. 

14 m. Bally mahon, a small town, 
prettily situated on the Inney, 
which runs under a bridge of 5 
arches, and falls over ledges of rock, 
winding its way between wooded 
islands. In the neighbourhood are 
Newcastle (Hon. L. King-Harman), 
Castlecove (Captain Hussy), and 
Creenaghmore.] 

From Athlone the line runs 
through a dreary and uninteresting 
country to 

9J m. Ballmasloe fane. Bal-atha- 
na-sluigheadh) (Hotel: Railway), so 
well known through Great Britain for 
its enormous horse and cattle fairs 
(Pop. 3911). The town lies in a low 
position on the banks of the Suck 
river, which intersects and in fact 
divides Roscommon from Galway. 
Gn the eastern side are the Lunatic 
Asylum for Connaught, and the 
ruins of Ballinasloe Castle, which 
in the reign of Elizabeth was one 
of the strongest fortresses in Ireland. 
The outer walls only remain, and 
are incorporated with a modern 
residence. The great fair of the 
year, which, to English eyes, presents 
a scene of rare confusion, is held 
from the 5th to the 9th of October, 
partly in the neighbouring grounds 
of Garbally and partly in the town. 
In the park " the herds of the most 
extensive flockmasters of Connaught 
generally occupy the same localities 
from year to year; but there are 
sometimes stiff contests between 
them, in order to maintain their 
ground against intruders." The num.- 



I 



JR->utc 14. — Kilconnell. 



L27 



i - gold at this fair in L861 

11. although in some former 
many as 97.000 have been 
spost <1 of. In L862, however, the 
number - ilea was considerably 
Adjoining the town is ('ar- 
il)-, the very beautiful park of 
* incartv, who Liberally throw 8 
it open for the enjoyment of the 
towuspM opl( The house contains 
1 puintin 
I *, l ur to Ballybrophy 

tin - - ns town and Roscrea. 

I > ~ - Pars >n8tqwn, 25J m. : 

- : I ■'.; I I d •:!!!. 11'.: A U- 

Kileonuell, 
• . — 
I. G * 

K IconnelL 

Q. 

[.> m. V >m I' Ilinasloe, on the road 
tnnell, i- the village of Au- 
rim, famous for the battle which 
Aughrim I lill. aboul 
the 8., on July 12th, L691 
tor tin of Athlone . 

I sh army under < ren. 
Id Lord Luean 
sh army under Ginckel 
i narsh. I ish position 

Kilcommodon Hill now capped 
• rn ch. - ery stroi 
landing this advanta 

of numbers, the 

ed with a Loss of 

*id< - th< ir commander, 

St. Ruth, by a cannon- 

tttefied; 
ill, 

'ii. 

• 

A 1 known 

\ in. to th - 
1 farm of Mr. 
th a visil from thi 

1 in th< i;il 

I 

i. and 
] 
the vii. H .I'll 



anc, Cil-chonaill), which may be 

reached in 4 m. from WoocQawn 
Stat. : but as a car may not al- 

ways be obtained, the Bafesl plan 

will be to visil it from Ballina- 
Bloe. It is celebrated for its ruined 
abbey, founded in 1 loo for Fran- 
ciscan friars by William O'Kelly, on 

the site of an earlier ch. raised by 

St. I onnall. " As picturesque a ruin 
aa can be where there are neither 
hills, rocks, lake, nor river, and but 
a few distant trees ; perhaps its ivy- 
mantled tower and roofless gables 
were bitter in keeping with the 
waste and desolation that presided 
over the place, destitute as it is of 
any modern improvement and deco- 
ration whatever/ 1 — Otway. It is a 
cruciform ch., consisting of nave, 
choir, and transept, with cloisters 
and domestic buildings, and a very 

graceful though slender tower of '1 

stages rising from the intersection. 
The Dee. windows are remarkable 
for the beauty of their tracery, while 
the cloisters are one of the m< al 
perfect examples in Ireland. The 
area is small, only 4 s ; ft. square, and 
is enclosed by pointed arches on each 
side, the columns of which are not 
curried down to the ground, but 
Bpring from a Low wall The whole 
effect is in Gael "more like a cloister 
in Sicily or Spain than anything 
in these islands." — Fergusson. In 

the interior of the ch. are some 

monuments, and a tablel to the 
memory of some members of the 
Trimlestown family, "whoe, being 
transplanted intoConaghl with others 
by orders of the vsvrper ( Iromwell, 
dyed at Moinivae, L667." A pretty 
in the village has been restored 
by the Etonian ( Satholic clergy. 

101] in. On 1. of WoocUawn Stat, 
is Woodlawn 1 [oust ,th< n al oi 1 rord 
Ashtown. On a hill overlook^ 
the station rt is a castellated edi- 
. known Trench'e Monument, 
:i mausol< inn for the 
Ashtown family. From hi ace the 



123 



Route 14. — Dublin to Gal way. 



Ireland. 



rly. runs over a miserable, bleak, 
and stony country to 

113J m. Athenry (with accent 

on last syllable) (Hotel: Railway) 
(lite. 27 ; , a miserable town, which, 
as far as ruined antiquities go, is a 
veritable Tadmor in the wilderness. 
It was thought by Sir James Ware 
t.> have been, with great probability, 
the chief town of the Anteri, whom 
Ptolemy places in this part of Ireland. 
At all events, it was of importance 
during the Anglo-Norman invasion, 
having been the first raised and the 
principal town of the De Burghs and 
Berminghams, whose fortress even 
now exists. Under the shelter of 
its defences many ecclesiastical esta- 
blishments rose up, amongst which 
were a Dominican abbey founded 
in 1261, which became the favourite 
ch. and burial-place of the Earls of 
Ulster and all the chief Irish families ; 
and a Franciscan priory, founded in 
1464 by the Earl of Kildare. The 
importance of the town, however, 
decayed in 1577, when the 2 sons of 
the Earl of Clanricarde nearly de- 
stroyed it by fire, a proceeding 
which was again repeated (it hav- 
ing been rebuilt in the mean 
time) by the northern Irish in 
1596. The castle consists of a mas- 
sive quadrangular keep surrounded 
by outworks. It is of the usual 
square un ornamented style, and 
lighted by a few eylet-holes. The 
walls of the town are in toler- 
able keeping, and retain a castel- 
lated gateway, the doorway of 
which presents some examples of 
interlacing work. The Dominican 
abbey is a cruciform church, of 
which the intersecting tower has 
disappeared. The E. window, of 4 
Lights, is of beautiful design. The 
whole of the ruin-, 1 "-ether with the 
modern ch., are surrounded by as 
miserable a collection of hovels as 
i well be seen in any Irish town. 
In the neighbourhood of Athenry 
rue Cnstle Lambert (W. Lambert, 
Esq.), Castle Ellen (W. P. Lambert, 



Esq.), and Moyode (R. B. Persse, 
Esq.). 

Conveyances. — By rail to Dublin 
and Gal way. By rail to Tuam. 
Coach to Westport. Car to Lough- 
rea. 

Distances. — Galway, 13m.; Oran- 
more, 8; Loughrea, 11; Tuam, 16; 
Monivea, 7. 

Passing on 1. the square fortress of 
Derrydonnel, the traveller reaches 

121 m. Oranmore, a village situ- 
ated at the head of a creek which 
forms part of Galway Bay. Here is 
another square tower, built by the 
Earl of Clanricarde, who, on the 
breaking out of the war in 1641, 
"placed it under the command of 
Capt. Willoughby, who also held the 
fort at Galway, and surrendered both 
of them to the Catholic forces in 
1643." — Lewis. From hence the rail 
runs through a dreary and stony 
district, though the monotony is soon 
relieved by exquisite views of the 
bay of Galway, which stretches out 
to the W. as far as the eye can 
see. Crossing an arm of the bay 
known as Lough Athaliah, on the N. 
shore of which are Merview (P. Joyce, 
Esq.) and Renmore (P. Lynch, Esq.), 
the tourist arrives at 

126 J m. the ancient city of Galway 
(Rte. 20) (Hotels: Railway, comfort- 
able ; Black's ; Kilroy's). 



Ikki.a 



Route 15. — Enfield to Drogheda, 



129 



ROUTE i; 



EDENDERRY \\:> ENFIELD 
DROGHEDA, THROUGH TRIM AND 
NAVAN. 

* 

Enfield Rte. 1 1 . ;i station, distant 

from Dublin, on the Mid- 

: < . • \ n Rly., is the 

i whence tjie traveller 

- bis excursion from the 

the I '> •> !!<• i" its mouth. 

Ad car runs from tin- stat to 

. 1 1 in., but it •• r 

a. At Eden- 

be 

I m. 

7 ' ' CUpil 8 a 

on the sununit 

ill 171 ti. . which, 

I •>{' tin- 

lonimands v. ry wide 

i rb< rry anc.Cairbre- 

l though 

in-' date. The original 

1 >e Bermii 

earliest 1 ish 

i • «l 

troubl 
■ nt., having been 
lished and 
• 1 1 Bermingh 

hai the 

Weill 

* 

' I ■• 'ii 

I I Mornii 2t m in 17 1 
building 
l iioi 
- i it ill 

inted 

I ehii il- 

rticu- 

. less tli 

-1 .if ully mould* 

r- 



Bonry, the massive walls, the d< 1 1> 
me-roofed donjons, the principal of 
which runs For 85 ft. underneath the 
great keep from S. to. N.. the mani- 
fest antiquity of the entire of the 
western end, and the general arrange- 
ment of the \\ hole, tiiat the present 

ruin consists of structures which 

would appear to 1>< as old as the 

L2th cent"— Sir IT. Wilde. On the 
Summit of the hill are some ancient 
Pi gan remains, and the ruined eh. of 
Temple 1 >oath. 

About 1} ni. to the N. is 
ruin of Iffj Lerstowu Castle, consist] 
of a lofty tower. This was also a 
fori-. 9B (.f the I )<■ Benninghams 
The view from the summit of ( Jar- 
berry hill stretches over the count,- - 
of Meath, Westmeath, Oarlow, Kil- 
dare, Dublin, King's, and Queen's; 
Looking westward, the hills of Cro- 
ghan, Edenderry, and Oarrick r 
conspicuous from the flats. S. are 
the ranges ofKildare, including the 
Chair ; while, nearer home, the 
various atles and churches of Car- 
berry, Mylerstown, Edenderry, Kin- 
naiad, and Carrick arc dotted about. 

At the foot of the hill is Xe\v- 

l i rry Hall P. Pilkington, Esq. . 

11 in. Edenderry Hotel: Now- 

lan's . ;i neat, well-to-do little town, 

under the care of i he Marqu< ss 

of Downshire, the owner of the 

A si itue in memory of the int.; 

•upi( - i. conspicuous 

!,"ii near the eh. tie of 

Blundells picturesquely cro^ - 

the Limestone hill that overhangs it. 

Although ii"t near enough to be 

much benefited by the rly., it hi 3 

the advantaj branch from ti 

iii ( Sana!. The geologist should 
visit the quarry in the Lower Limestoi 

kalian, a little t«. the B., which 

contains, in the Lower portion, hori- 

of black marbli . ai i 

conformably on th< m <-r - 

talline lim< stones, joint, d v< rticalh 

in such a u lumnar. 

/ ' li< Id. I 1 in. : Clo- 

Philipstown, 1 1 h. 

:; 



130 



Route 15. — Enfield to Drogheda. 



Ireland. 



Conveyances. — Car daily to En- 
field. 

In the demesne is Trinity Well, 
the source of the river Boyne, 289 ft. 
above the sea. As might be ex- 
pected from its varied course, and 
the historical incidents which every- 
where mark it, the Boyne has been 
the subject of divers legends in its 
infancy, the basis of all wMeh ap- 
pears to be that it was so named 
after an Irish princess, Boan or 
Boinne, who was drowned in it. 
From hence it has a course more or 
less sluggish for about 70 m. to the 
sea at Drogheda, running generally 
from S.W. to N.E. Many parts are 
extremely beautiful, while all are 
more or less replete with ruins, Pa- 
gan remains, and scenes of historical 
interest. Probably no river in Ire- 
land possesses so many celebrated 
towns and neighbourhoods : — 

" Ecce Boan qui Trim celer influit, istius 
undas 
Subdere se salsis Drogheda cernit aquis." 

Necham, 1217. 

Continuing on the road to Clonard, 
the tourist arrives at 11 J m. the ruins 
of Monasterori8 9 a small eh. of the 
14th cent, with a double belfry ; also 
portions of a monasteiy with walls of 
great thickness, and, on an adjoining 
tumulus, of a square dovecot. This, 
too, was a foundation of the Ber- 
minghams, viz. Sir John, who was 
also Earl of Louth in 1325. Monas- 
teroris is in Irish, Mainister Feorais, 
which latter word, as Sir W. Wilde has 
pointed out, is the poetic translation 
of Pierce, the first of the Berming- 
hams, a family well known by the 
Irish natives under the name of Clan- 
Feorais, or the Clan of Pierce. Close 
by is Monasteroris House (J. Hamil- 
ton, Esq.). 

The monastery sustained a long- 
siege by the Earl of Surrey, the 
Lord Lieutenant, who marched into 
the district of OrTaly (as it was 
termed) against the O'Moores who 
had invaded the Pale. 



13J m. a road on rt. leads across 
the river to Kinnafad Castle, also 
founded by the Berminghams, who ap- 
pear to have dotted the whole country 
with their strongholds. It is a large 
square tower, lighted by a few narrow 
windows, and more remarkable for its 
massive plainness than for any archi- 
tectural features. It was doubtless 
erected to command the ford, for, in 
deepening the bed of the river from 
Kinnafad to Edenderry, numbers of 
weapons and celts, together with 
human remains, were discovered. 
They are now in the Museum of 
the Koyal Irish Academy. The 
tourist should proceed by this road, 
as he will thus obtain the most inte- 
resting points on the Boyne. 

15| m. is the partly inhabited 
fortress of Grange Castle, near which 
the Boyne receives a considerable 
accession in the Yellow Kiver, that 
flows in here from the W., separating 
Meath from King's County. About 
1 m. to the rt. is Carrick Hill, rising 
387 ft. with the same conspicuous 
outline as that of Carberry. Like 
Carberry too, it possesses the ruins 
of a castle, the chief court of 
the treacherous Baron Pierce de 
Bermingham. Here, " a.d. 1305, 
Murtagh O'Connor of Offalie, Mul- 
morrey his brother, and Calvagh 
O'Connor, with 29 of the choicest of 
then family, were treacherously killed 
by Pyers Bermyngham, within the 
castle of CarrickrTeorus." — Annals of 
Clonmacnoise. 

Of the castle there now remains only 
the S. wall of a high keep, and an 
adjoining ch. of the 13th or beginning 
of the 14th cent., with its E. and S. 
walls. Both the W. and E. gables 
have belfries. The hill of Carrick 
consists of mountain limestone, but 
on the summit is a large block 
of trap, similar to that of Croghan, 
from which place it was doubtless 
transported by means of local drift 
action. It bears the name of the 
Witches' Bock, and was originally 
thrown at one of the saints from 



Irelai 



Route 15. — BaUybogan — Clonard. 



ini 



( roghan by an individual of thai 
pi >n. 

An indented flat atone, probably 

marking the site of a cell, is also 

lied the Mule's I ■ ap on the same 

leg< ndary grounds. Stretching along 

the banka of the Boyne is the de- 

Rahin Rev. Mr. Palmer . 

1 8j in. cloa i" the riv< r aide is 

/ Ui/lxxmn Abbov, a very Large cru- 

ii cli. <»t' which tin- transepts 

be< d <1« atroyed . founded in the 

by .Ionian Comin, for 

istinian can-Mi-. The priory v 

burned down hi the loth cent., and 

ly the lands and property 

1 into th«- hands of the Berming- 

hai - l thof tb.ech.is L93&, 

hut ; markably t.w archi- 

ml '1- - '"'lit it. The 

\\". _■ • i. La Lighted bya long slender 

window of K. V.WZ. <laic Ill 

tl; N na choir are 3 trefoil- 

Li i. At the junction of 
abbey is a 
turesque holy well 
[From : '1 reel — - the 

B \ rout Kinnata.l. The 

• to ( 'lonard this way 
visiting Ticroghan 
I s\ but the distal i ater, 

will probably hai en 
as m could wish 

teaching Trim. It is worth 
however, thai when this 
id was 1 1 by the Par- 

9 lllah r t oL B 
. • l'c was ahoiit 

9ed, when it was di red ti 

; [•«■ liri'ij- >ilv< r 

wliich v. h an evident 

• of ammunition, 
to work 

agst Luced the fortress. 

( I 

iH'tween the i 
and the ri\. mound v. 150 

i tried, part of a body 

laid -i._,- in I - 

u bel Mr. 

rel, wliicli he with 27 v. om< n 

« i Clfu lly -r a wh«,;. J 

| 



Little for the inspection of the ar- 
chsBologist, but carries interest with 
it from its old associations, which 

extend hack Cor the Last LOO0 years. 

Clonard or Cluain Ioraird ("The 
Retirement on the Western Height") 

was in early times the most famous 
bishopric in Meath, the firsl bishop 
being St Finian (a.d. 520), one of 

the immediate successors of St. 

Patrick. It was also the centre of 
Learning in Ireland, and, like Llan- 

twit in S. Wales and Jiardsey Island 

in \. Wales, was the seat of a 

WOrld-famed college, which numbered 

3000 students, including St. Kieran, 
St. Columb, and all the principal 
saints. Not only for its learning, 
hnt for its hospitality, was it cele- 
brated, as visitors from Armories and 
all parts of Europe were constantly 
journeying hither. The buildings 
formerly consisted of abbeys, chapels, 
cloictheachs or round towers. &c.; 
but of these absolutely no trace is 
left, though many of them existed at 
the beginning of this cent., and were 
described byArchdall in his 'Monas- 
ticon.' From the Annals we learn 
the misfortune - which attended 
Clonard : that in 1045 it was set on 
fire thrice in one week ; that in 1136 
it was -ached and plundered by the 
people of Brefhey ; and so on with 
various repetitions until it has be- 
come the 5 Qderness it is. The only 
tract- of archaeological interest arc a 
fragment of corh I <>\< t the door in 

the tower of the Hi., and iii the inte- 
rior a singular font of grey marble, 
in shape an octagonal basin, the 

ernal panels Of which are each 
divided into 2 compartment.-, and are 
ornamented with very curious figun a 
and acriptural subjects, r< presenting 
the Flight int" \ .-\ pt, the Baptism 
in the Jordan, & c. 
v r tin- eh. stands a singular 

tumulus or moat crowned hv a 

spreading Thi - i vi- 

• pulchral : but a tittle to 

the \'.\V. i- a rath military , v. iv p. r- 

.'• rnal fosse, 



132 



Route 15, — Enfield to Drogheda. 



Ireland. 



encircling a raised ditch, within 
which we find a level platform, ele- 
vated somewhat above the surround- 
ing plain, but not so high as the 
earthen circle winch encloses it." — 
Wilde. 

[From Clonard, the tourist who 
does not wish to extend his wander- 
ings to Trim may rejoin the Midland 
Ely., at the Hill of Down Stat., 2 m. 
distant.] 

27 m. Keeping on the 1. bank of 
the Boyne and crossing a tributary 
stream, we arrive at Killyon (an old 
seat of the Magans), near which are 
the scanty remains of an ancient 
priory, and a little further on Donore 
Castle, a well-preserved square for- 
tress (like a peel-tower) of the date 
of the Anglo-Norman invasion. The 
river is here crossed at Inchmore 
Bridge. 

32 m. rt., near Doolistown House, 
the road again approaches the river, 
which has begun to improve very 
considerably in the character of its 
scenery. 

35 m. 1. Newhaggard House ; and 
beyond, though on the opposite side 
of the stream, is Trimlestown, the 
ruined seat of Lord Trimleston. It 
dates from the loth cent., and 
played a somewhat conspicuous part 
in the Parliamentary war, during 
which time it was garrisoned and 
fortified for 10 years. 

36 m. Trim (anc. Ath-truim) (Hotel: 
Darling's) has been graphically de- 
scribed by Sir W. Wilde. " To see 
Trim aright, the tourist must approach 
it by the Blackbull-road from Dublin, 
when all the glorious ruins which 
crowd this historic locality, and which 
extend over a space of above a mile, 
burst suddenly upon him ; the re- 
mains of St. Jol m's Friary and cas- 
tellated buildings at the bridge of 
Newtown — the stately abbey of St. 
Peter and St. Paul a little farther 
on, raising aloft its tall, light, and 
i vv-mantled win d < > W8 — the neigh- 
bouring chapel, with its sculptured 
tombs and monumental tablets — the 



broad green lawns, through which 
the Boyne winds, between that and 
Trim — the grey massive towers of 
King's John Castle, with its outward 
walls and barbican, the gates and 
towers and bastion — the fosse, moat, 
and chapel — the sheepgate and por- 
tions of the town wall —and above all, 
the tall, commanding form of the 
Yellow Steeple, which seems the 
guardian genius of the surrounding 
ruins." 

The Yellow Steeple is supposed to 
occupy the site of the original abbey 
of St. Mary, founded in 432 by St. 
Patrick ; indeed Trim is believed to 
have been one of the oldest of the 
Irish sees. The present tower was 
erected in the Anglo-Norman period, 
and is a lofty building of 5 stages, 
125 ft. in height. The W. wall and 
part of the N. and S. have been de- 
stroyed, according to some by the 
cannon of Cromwell, thus leaving the 
interior exposed to view. From its 
great height it was probably built 
as a signal and watch tower over 
the adjoining country. Amongst the 
ruined portions of the wall near the 
Yellow Steeple is a round-headed 
arch, known as the Sheepgate, which 
with the Watergate are the only re- 
maining 2 entrances of the old town. 
The abbey of Trim was rich and 
powerful, and cultivated intimate re- 
lations with the Court of England. 

N. of the town and without the 
old walls are scanty remains of the 
Black Friary of the Dominicans, 
founded in the 13th cent., by Geoffrey 
de Geneville, or de Joinville, Lord 
of Meath, as famous a crusader and 
military knight as he afterwards 
became a good ecclesiastic, of whom 
it was written — ■ 

" Ipse post militia? bursnm temporalis 
lllustratus gratia doni spiritualis 
Esse Xti cupiens miles specialis 
In hoc domo monachus factus est claus- 
tralis." 

Of the Grey Friary of Observan- 
tines no traces remain. The Castle 
of King John, who by the way had 



. 



Iioi'te 15. — Trim. 



-j QQ 



OO 



d with it Bave thai of 

j tli< re "ii a visil to Ireland, 

\n - oriirinallv founded bv Hugh de 

I v iii 1 173, who then departed to 

rljind, leaving it in custody of 

11, _ Tvnvl. 

I >*< Jonnor, King of Con- 
ght, marched against the fortress 
st my it : but Tyrrel, finding 
himself too weak for defence, Be1 
.1 burnt it. The pre- 
builuing in extenl surp any- 

thing in tlie country, and is believe d 
i. built ! Richard 

I Ji it is asserts d by 

I t this individual Lived 

nt oi Meath being 
■ 

i •' 2 

: lofty b 

in hi ight, and flanked by 

< abutting from 

■ that it - • Lter- 

n:ill 3. I ae outer 

j Is. in lei and is 

by 10 circular towei 

By means of a 

ran all round, the wati re 

nld be let in and thus 

tie. The 

rteullis, and drawbridge 

irkable ] ation. 

• ie numerous 

svluch Trim was the scene 

the history 
i : it v. ill suffice to 

l . rl of 
i c iirt In re in 

Lord ( rlou- 

I : I 

i ; impi 

i i nd tl, 

laid, at One 

bed. 

I tin i <•• I for 

but it 
I 

mi, who 
in Dul 

pillar lias 

rue. 

1 



Talbot's Castle, buill by sir John 
Talbot, the Lord Lieutenant of Ire- 
land and the Scourge of France, in 
1415. This Latter building was con- 
verted into the Diocesan School 
where Wellington received bis early 

education. The parish cli. is also 
an ancient edifice, and lias a Steeple 

erected in 144 ( J by Richard Duke of 

York. 

In addition to these objects of 
interest are a few modern county 
buildings, of which the gaol, one of 
the most complete in the county, is 
worth an inspection. About 3 m. 
from the town on the Dublin road, 
and on both sides of the lioyiie. 

which is crossed at the village of 
Newton Trim, are the extensive 
remains of the Abbey of St. Peter 
and St. PauL On the N. hank are 
the cathedral remains, which exhibit 
ae fine features in Transition- 
Norman. It was founded at the 
beginning of the 13th cent, by Simon 
Rochfort, the same ecclesiastic who 
removed the see of Olonard hither, 
" Broad strips of masonry, placed at a 
considerable distance apart, project 
from the walls of the eh. upon the 
exterior, a featurenever found but in 
early work, and which is generally 
eharart. ristic of the Norman period. 
Within, Beveral chastely-formed de- 
corated corbel-shafts remain, and 
support portions of the ribs by which 
the vaulted roof was sustained. The 
windows are of the Lancet form, with 
piers between, and the mouldirj 

which run round them are orna- 
mented with beautifully designed 
I ds. S< dilii of Norm, archiu <•- 
tore may be a en in the wall, to the 
of the space anciently occupied 
by the altar." — Wakeman. At the 
other end of the bridge are the rail 

tie, a la • pi ctangular 
keep with square U il 2 of the 

aii d!« r l"W< r lov i 

• ha-. Ti US a 3-light 

wii mall chapel within the 

ruin.-, the whol which takqn 



131 



Houte 15. — Enfield to Droglieda. 



Ireland. 



together combine in a singular de- 
gree the religious and the military. 

In a small eh. hard by are some 
remains of imposts, tombs, capitals, 
&c, recovered from the ruins, and 
placed here by the archaeological 
care *of Rev. Mr. Butler, vicar of Trim. 
There is also an altar-tomb bearing 
the recumbent figures of Sir Lucas 
Dillon and his wife, Chief Baron of 
the Exchequer in the reign of Eliza- 
beth. On the sides are the arms of 
the Dillons,. Baths, and Barnewalls. 
At the point where the Dublin road 
leaves the river is Scurloughstown 
Castle, a singular massive peel-tower, 
or rectangular keep with 2 round 
towers placed diagonally at the 
corners. It was called after its 
builder, William de Scarloug, an 
Ang.-Norm. settler hi 1180, and in 
later times suffered somewhat at the 
hands of Cromwell, who, being chal- 
lenged by the garrison, fired a cannon- 
ball which caused a crack in one of 
its sides. 

Conveyances.— Rail to Dublin. 
Distances. — Kells, 16m.; Enfield, 
10; Tara, 9; Dangan, 4; Bective, 
5 ; Clonard, 14 ; Navan, 13}. 

[In an excursion to Dangan Castle 
(4 in.), the tourist will pass 1} m. 
Laracor, a quiet secluded little village 
associated with the name of Dean 
Swift, for it was once his residence. 
" Here also lived Stella and Mrs. 
Dingley, and here they sauntered 
through the quiet roads with Dr. 
Raymond, the vicar of Trim, and 
with the future author of Gulliver 
and the ' Drapier's Letters.' " The 
association is all that is left, as the 
dwelling of the witty divine has long 
ago crumbled to ruins. 

4 m. Dangan was one of the seats 
of the Wellesley family, in which the 
late Duke of Wellington passed much 
of his early days, though he was 
not born here, as some biographers 
make out. There is little to interest 
in the present building, which con- 
sists of a keep, part of the old for- 
tress, and attached to it a mansion 



in the Italian style. It is now almost 
a ruin, having fallen into the posses- 
sion of a careless owner, who let the 
whole estate go to rack, a proceed- 
ing that was considerably hastened 
by a fire.] 

38 m. Scurloughstown Castle (see 
ante) ; and 39 m. on the opposite 
side of the Boyne is Rathnally House 
(W. Thompson, Esq), where the 
scenery of the river begins greatly to 
improve, and to assume a peculiarly 
English character. The banks rise 
to a considerable height, thus shutting 
out the river from the road. 

40 J m. 1. Trubley Castle is a fortress 
of about the same importance as 
Scurloughstown, though very little 
is now left save the portion of a tower 
and a round pigeon-house. It is said 
that Cromwell slept a night here 
during his passage up the Boyne. 

41 m. 1. Close to Bective Bridge, 
on the 1. bank, are the ruins of 
the noble abbey of Bective, one of 
the finest of the many noble remains 
of this district. Bective was founded 
for the Cistercian order in the 12th 
cent, by O'Melaghlin, King of 
Meath, who endowed it with 250 fat 
acres. Here was buried the body 
of Hugh de Lacy, treacherously 
murdered by a countryman while he 
was superintending the building of a 
new castle at Darrow. His head was 
taken to the eh. of St. Thomas in 
Dublin, wmich caused such umbrage 
to the monks of that establishment, 
that they appealed to the Pope, who 
decided that the abbey of Bective 
should give up the remainder of the 
corpse. Very little remains to show 
the whereabouts of the ch., the 
whole style of the abbey indicating a 
remarkable union of monastic with 
military arrangements. It is in 
good preservation, and enables us 
to trace the various apartments and 
halls. The general plan of the build- 
ings is that of a quadrangle, with a 
strong battlemented tower, contain- 
ing a vaulted hall, at the S.W. corner. 



Irelaj 



Route 15. — Tara, 



L35 



In the centre are the cloisters, the E. 

E - arches of which are remarkably 

• 

beautiful. They are cinquefoiled 
1 supported on light clustered 
lars. •• The featherings are mostly 
plain, l'Ut several are ornamented 
th flowers or leaves, and upon one 
a hawk-like l»inl is sculptured. The 
a s, which are circular, reel upon 
e plinths, the angles of which 
ornamented with a leaf, as it 
ing out of the base mould- 
- Wah Prom the splay- 

ing of the windows in the X. wall ol 
Jit also have Berved 
8 • 11 of the eh. 
Thi atic portion of the monas- 

a n the and i> remark- 

for tin- thickm bs of the 

. through which flu* - are carri< d 
B] ided in tapering chimn< 

Much of this part of the 

of later dat< 

[About 5 in. t«> the rt. of Bective 

i- a Bpol thai should be visited by 

hidi traveller, not tor tin- 

sak ruined le or abbey, 

- old associations with all 

th and noble in Ireland's 

ply hi-? -rv. The hill of Tara v - 

of Ireland, the 
burial-place of her kin 
>t from which i 
s ■- '1 and dis- 

I not lung is hft to 
polisbnl - 
'— y i and a f. w pill 

I 

r «.r Tarah, which 
to the provii 
i . where the Btato - of the 

i partiam< 

wl .llhition- w. 

- tter of the 

I ' ed 

. • >t noi 

• who 

►nal blemish. A.c<n >rd- 

.'1 in the [rish MS. . mi; 

h' lee' i I I • . the 

when L> go and 1. 



at Cennannus or Kells. After the 
death of Dermol in the year 563, the 
hill was deserted in consequence of a 
curse pronounced against the king 
by St. Ruadan, and subsequently 
it was the scene of a decisive battle 
in which the power of the Daius 
in Meath was overthrown. The 
present remains consist of certain 
mounds or duns laid down in the 

Ordnance Map as Rath Riogh, Rath 
Laoghaire, Rath Grainne, and Rath 
' elchu. 

of these the most important was 
Rath Riogh, of oval form, 850 ft. 
Ion--, within the enclosure of which 
rises up a mound, known as the 
Forradh. and another called Teach 

< irmac, the Bouse of ( Sormac. The 
Forradh is flattened at the top and 
surrounded by 2 lines of earth, with 
a ditch between. It is conspicuous 
from a single pillar stone, which 1 
been suggested by Dr. Petrie with 
great probability to he no other than 
the celebrated Lia Fail, or Stone 
of Destiny, upon which for many 
ages the monarchs of Ireland were 
crowned, and which is generally sup- 
posed to have been removed from 
Ireland to Scotland for the coronation 
of Fergus ^\^- Eark, a prince of the 
blood-royal of Ireland, there having 
been a prophecy that, in whatever 
country this famous stone was p;< - 
>• rved, a king of th-' Bcotie rac< 
should reign. Teach Cormac is 
joined to the Forradh on the s .!•'.. 
and is a double enclosure of about 
I Hi ft. in diameter. On the \. of 
theForradhis the old Hall or Teach 
Miodhchuarta, consisting of 2 parallel 
lines of earth running X. and S.. 
with <; openings on each side denoting 
• ancient entrances. It was 360 
ft. Long by 1<» ft., and was evidently 
intended for the accommodation of a 

numb r at tin - ime tie 
• TJ i i ating-hall had 1 2 stalls in each 
wi- les and p - round them; 

16 attendants on each side — 8 to the 

■ re, historians, and seen tai 
in th- !• p of the hall, and '1 to . ach 



136 



Haute 15. — Enfield to Droghcda. 



Ireland. 



table at the door — 100 guests in all : 
2 oxen, 2 sheep, and 2 hogs at eaeh 
meal were divided equally on each 
side." — MSS. Between the Rath 
Riogh and the Old Hall is a mound 
known as the King's Chair, and 
N. of the latter are the Raths 
Grainne and Oaelchu. A road lead- 
ing to the N. was the Slighe Fan 
na-Carbad, or Slope of the Chariots. 
The visitor to this ancient mausoleum 
of Ireland's glories will sympathize 
with the poet in his melancholy 
strain : — 

* No more to chiefs and ladies bright 
The harp of Tara swells, 
The chord alone that breaks at night 
Its tale of ruin tells." — Moore,. 

To go back to a yet more ancient 
period, the geologist will be interested 
to know that both the Hills of Tara 
and Skreen are composed of rocks of 
the coal-measure formation, which 
abound in Posidonomya.] 

42 m. on a small strip of land, 
between the river and a tributary 
brooklet, are the ruins of Clady 
ch., remarkable for possessing a 
transept, a feature unusual in Irish 
early churches. In the S. chapel 
is a good E. Eng. window with 
cinquefoil arches. The brook is 
crossed by a singular bridge of 2 un- 
equal arches, which are supposed by 
some antiquaries to be coeval with 
the ch. A discovery was made near 
the ch. of 2 subterranean chambers 
of beehive-shape, formed of rows of 
stones, each layer of which projects a 
little beyond the layer below. So 
far they are similar to the chambers 
at Newgrange (p. 139), but with 
this difference, that the dome in the 
latter springs from upright pillars and 
does not commence from the ground, 
as it does at Clady. The chambers 
are 9 ft. high, and are connected by 
a small passage about 9 ft. long. 
" There can be little doubt that they 
are to be referred to Pagan times, 
before the use of the arch or the 
advantage of mortar was known, and 
were probably employed by some of 



the very early people of tliis island 
as places of security, temporary habi- 
tations, and granaries." — Wilde. It 
is unfortunate, however, that the 
beehive houses have so fallen in 
that it is very difficult for a 
stranger to make them out. On 
the same side of the river is Bective 
House, the residence of B. Bolton, 
Esq. Opposite is Assey Castle, a 
fortress resembling the numerous 
Boyne castles, being a square keep 
with circular towers at alternate 
angles. There are also some ecclesi- 
astical ruins hard by. Following the 
course of the river are Ballinter 
House and Bridge (45 m.), with 
Dowdstown House, on the rt. bank ; 
Ardsallagh House, the Elizabethan 
seat of the Duke of Bedford, on the 
1. ; after which the tourist arrives at 

47 2 m. Kilcarn, from whence the 
road crosses to the 1. bank to Navan. 

Before crossing, he may diverge 
about J m. to the rt., to visit the 
ruined ch. of Kilcarn, which formerly 
contained one of the most perfect and 
beautiful fonts in the country. To 
prevent annihilation, the usual fate of 
every relic in Irish churches, it was 
buried, but afterwards dug up and 
placed in its present position in the 
Kom. Cath. chapel at Johnstone. The 
shaft is plain, but the basin is elabo- 
rately ornamented with a series of 12 
niches, each containing a carved figure. 
Two of them indeed contain 2 figures, 
of which one compartment represents 
Christ blessing the Virgin Mary. In 
all the others are figures of the 
Apostles, carved with extraordinary 
delicacy, and the utmost atten- 
tion to expression and costume. 
Each niche is surmounted by a small 
crocket. 

[If the tourist prefers crossing the 
Boyne at Ballinter Bridge, he will 
pass near the ruins of Cannistown 
ch., a 13th cent, ch., with a remark- 
ably good circular choir arch and E. 
window.] 

About \ m. below Kilcarn Bridge 
is Atldumney Castle, a most pic- 



we. BoutelS. — Donaghmon -Castle Dexter. 



13* 



tu. r rather fortified 

sion, of the l<*>tli cent. At one 
n ivy-covered tower, adjoin- 
more modem mansion with 
and miillioned windows. 
' the former owner of this 
Sir 1 n ■•• l< \ Dowdall, that, 
:• than suffer the Prince of 
i liter beneath his root*. 

• I ise be would 
him- ; i hi- ancestral 

i Hold: Bradj 
Rtes". 1 !. li 
1 ; skirts the 

Black I stle 

. Ks j. to 51 m. Donagh- 

i its church and 

I i i'v times the 

tchmor w 

in which it 

ty 

i' St. 

p trticularly confided 

Id build- 

ajiven 

of the L3th cent., 

\ Gorman >< ttlers. 

id t'iv similar in form 

; . 16 .and is con- 

! »r. Petrie to be of I 

It- height is LOO ft., and 

66 ft. : 

Pirate 

onical a] 

. : i r 

i ! doorwa; 

i li'j-ii' or 

liprured in relit vo 

stone imme- 

if. 

'i of 

■m !• r 
of 

I 

tly 

■ her out 

i 



by Borne antiquari - a proof thai 

il was an after work, which would 
consequently throw the origin of the 

tower into Pagan times. 

.V_! m. rt. on the bank of the river 
Opposite Ardmnlehan is the ruined 

fortress of Dunmoe^ an Anglo-Norm. 

castle of about the tilth cent, it had 
its sliare of hard treatment in it- 
time, and in L6 1 1 held its ground 
- i bravely against the [rish force Bent 
against it that the assailants induced 
the commander, Captain Power, to 
surrender by means of a forged order 
from the Lords Justices. The river 
Bice is protected laterally by - cir- 
cular towers, and it occupies a very 
tine position, probably overlooking 
an ancient ford. 

■ \ m 1. Stackallan House, the 
seal of Viscount Boyne. 

55 m. rt., nearly opposite the 
wooded eminences of Beauparc J v t < ■ . 
16 . are the ruins of Castle Dexter, 
said to have been erected by one of 
the Flemings, the early lords of Slane, 
but supposed with greater probability 
to have been built by the D'Exeter 
family, a Connaught Bept who were 
located in Meath. It is a rambling, 

ivy-covered ruin, beautifully situated, 
bnl not possessing any very remark- 
able features. A little higher up 
Oruicetown Lock and the Fall of 
E ickallan, above which the riv<r i- 
crossed at Broadboyne Bridge. "The 
broad r< ach below the bridge has 
been supposed by some antiquari* - 
to be in the vicinity of Brugh-na- 
I ; »inne, where the monarchs of 'I': 
were interred of old: but we think 
that the evidence Is in favour of the 

litv beyond Slane." — Wildt . 
The traveller by road will notice 

rly parallel with < Sastle I texter 
the broken shaft of 1 1 own ( 

the inscription on the sides showing 
that it * - • •' eted in L590 by I 
i I II family. 

r m. S in ( calL 1 

l Inn: Dean's), a 

' |>retty town, in da\ by 

I tic and burial-plac 



138 



Haute 15. — Enfield to Drogheda. 



Ireland. 



King Slaniua, of whom it was said, 

" This Slanius is entombed at a hill in 
Meath, which of him is named Slane." 

On a bank overlooking the river 
is Slane Castle, the modern residence 
of the Marquis of Conyngham, who 
had the honour of a visit here from 
King George IV. -The archaBologi- 
eal tourist will find more interest in 
the ruins of the ch. and monastery, 
so beautifully placed on the hill 
above the town, that is worth ascend- 
ing for the sake of the view, which 
Sir W. Wilde justly considers to 
equal that from Richmond Hill, and 
which embraces the whole course of 
the Boyne from Trim to Drogheda, 
with the classic hills of Skreen 
and Tara, and the mounds that 
mark the burial-places of the kings. 
The best part of the abbey ruins is 
a noble tower, with a round-headed 
doorway on the western side, and a 
good Decorated Flamboyant window. 
The remains of the monastery are 
some little distance to the N.E. An 
abbev must have existed here for 
some time, as we read that in 948 the 
cloictheach or round tower of Slane 
was burned by the Danes, together 
with the crozier and the bells, " the 
best of bells." Previous to this time 
there was an establishment of Canons 
Regular, in which Dagobert King 
of France was educated. After being 
destroyed by the Danes the abbey 
gradually decayed, until it was re- 
stored by Sir Christopher Fleming 
in 1512. There are in the enclo- 
sure some singular gravestones, one 
of them formed of 2 headstones, 
shaped like the ( gable of a house. 
Sir W. Wilde considers it with great 
probability to be of greater antiquity 
than any Christian tomb in Ireland. 

On the western brow of the hill, 
above the town, is a large circular 
rath, and on the same side of the river 
are the interesting ruins of the Her- 
mitage of St. Ere, the 1st Bishop of 
Slane, consecrated by St. Patrick at 
the beginning of the 6th cent., whose 
piety was so great, that "his custom 



was to remain immersed in the Boinn 
up to his 2 armpits from morning till 
evening, having his Psalter before 
him on the strand, and constantly 
engaged in prayer." The building, 
which contains the tomb of the Earl 
of Drogheda, is of different dates, 
and the visitor will notice the fleur- 
de-lis and the rose ornaments on the 
inner pointed doorway. Also on the 
walk above, a stone, probably belong- 
ing to a tomb, on which 12 rather 
elaborate figures are sculptured. 

On the opposite side of the river, 
close to Slane Bridge, are the ruins 
of the ch. and castle of Fennor, that 
need not detain the visitor. 

Distances. — Drogheda, 8 m. ; Na- 
van, 1\. 

The district on the 1. bank of the 
Boyne, extending from within 1^ m, 
of Slane to the spot where the river 
Mattock joins the Boyne, was the 
Brugh-na-Boinne, the royal cemetery 
of the Fort of the Boyne, the great 
burying-ground of the kings of Tara, 
an account of which is given in an 
article of an Irish MS., entitled ' Sen- 
chas na Relec,' or History of the Ce- 
meteries, translated by Dr. Petrie. 
From this it appears that Cormac king 
of Tara, having come to his death bv 
the bone of a salmon sticking in his 
throat, desired his people not to 
bury him at Brugh (because it was 
a cemetery of idolaters), but at 
Ros-na-righ with his face to the E. 
His servants, however, came to the 
resolution to bury him at Brugh, but 
the Boyne swelled up three times, so 
that they could not come. A poet 
of West Connaught writes as fol- 
lows : — 

" The three cemeteries of Idolaters are, 
The cemetery of Tailten, the select, 
The cemetery of the ever-fair Cruachan, 
And the cemetery of Brugh. 
The host of great Meath are buried 
In the middle of the lofty Brugh ; 
The great Ultonians used to bury 
At Tailten with pomp." 

In the area just mentioned "we find the 
remains of no less than 17 sepulchral 
barrows, some of these — the smaller 



! LAND. 



Route 15. — Tumuli: Newgrange. 



139 



I in the green pasture- 

wbicb form the immediate 

the Boyne, while the 3 of 

magnitude, Dowth, Knowth, 

1 Newgrange, are placed <>n the 

unit of the ridge which bounds 

the valh 1. bank, making 

up of 20 in all. including the 

remains at I alea and the great 

in which the fortress of Dro- 

i now stands p. 26 . and known 

in the annals - I lc mound of the 

nan." — Wil 
Quitting the high road and turn- 
•.. the tourisl arrives at 
remarkable tumulus 
. which, for the extra- 
id elaborate orna- 
interior, is per- 
1 in Europe. This 
rn, which is aboul 7<> ft. in 
surrounded by a circle 
>us upright stones, l<> 
still visible, while it is said 
upright stel< od 

summit. Like the hill of 
1» hollow in the interior, 

Tined of lar 9, the 

being, that some 
• 'v brought from t : I of 

- 

ra are basaltic, 

an :i must have been 

from the Mourne Mouu- 

Edward LLwyd, 
. 
rkable for 2 
ti fully-carved 8, the 

■ • Ing 

snal 

I 

pat t ♦ ■ n i . nd 

.1 '_! 1 on ti i r : 

• It' through 

tor 

. with 

from it. 'I 

iuIm r m- 

: 11 U] 



Btones, above which is the dome, 
formed by large Btones placed hori- 
zontally, the edge of each project- 
ing somewhat more than the undi r 
one until the top is r< ached, and 

closed by a single big slab. Re- 
specting this form of roofing, "Po- 
cocke hasobserveda similar structure 
in the pyramid of Dushour, called 
by the Arab name of Elkeberen 1- 
Barieh ; and all the visitors to the 
Cyclopean-walled Mycenae arc well 
acquainted with the appearance of 
the great cavern known by tradi- 
tion as the tomb of Agamemnon, and 
believed by some antiquaries to have 
been the treasury of Athene ; betwe< n 
which and Newgrange comparisons 
have often been made : their r< s< m- 
blance, however, consists in the 
principle on which the dome is con- 
structed/'- Wildes Boyne. Perhaps 
the most extraordinary features in 
this chambi r are the carvings on the 
stones in every direction, on the 
basement, up in the roof, and in 
the recess 8-* They consist of coils, 
spirals, lozenges, and one in par- 
ticular in the western recess is orna- 
mented with what was apparently 
intended for a fern. As in Dowth, the 
interior contains stone oval hasi 
That the remains of those who were 
buried in these gigantic mausoleums, 

well as other valuables deposit* d 
with them, wi re plundered by the 
I >;tn. ^ aboul A.?-. 860, is recorded in 
the ' Four Annals,' and it need not 
therefore excite any surprise in the 

sitor that nothing bu1 the bare 
walls remain, though at the excava- 
tions carried on al Dowth in 1847 
» vi ial articles w< re found, such as 
bones, pins, fibnlte, and a cinerary urn. 
( mi the opposite Bide of the riv. r 
I: iree, from whence the body i I 
King Cormac was ?ainly end, - 
v-'nr. d t" be brought to Brugh-na- 
l '. 

l in. forth r W., and n< an i 

• The < U wh of i trtarker in 

uving similar 



110 



Haute 15. — Enfield ta Drogheda. 



Ireland. 



shine, is the tumulus of Knowth (the 
Cnodhba of the 'Four Annuls '), an 
equally enormous mass, but to which 
there is no access as regards the in- 
terior. 

62 J m. Dowth or Dubhadh is a 
conical hill of considerable size, on 
Hie western side of which a passage 
had long existed, that might have 
been possibly formed by the Danes 
when they rifled the tumuli of their 
contents. This was further opened 
anl explored, and led to very gra- 
tifying discoveries. The entrance 
passage, which is by no means easy 
of access, is composed of 11 very 
large stones on the 1. and 9 on the 
rt., set on end, and slightly inclined 
at top. It is 27 ft. long, and leads 
into a central chamber similar to 
the one at Newgrange. Notice the 
singular and beautiful carvings on 
the stones, consisting of spirals, con- 
centric circles, and wheel crosses, 
together with straight lines like 
Ogham characters. In the centre of 
the chamber is a shallow stone 
basin measuring 5 ft. in diameter. 
Adjoining the chamber are 3 re- 
cesses, between 5 and 6 ft. deep, 
the southern one of which leads 
into another series of chambers 
and passages running southward. 
" Following the long southern gallery, 
we find its floor formed by a single 
stone, 10 ft. 6 in. long ; and in the 
centre of this flag is a shallow oval 
excavation, capable of holding about 
a gallon, and apparently rubbed 
down with some rude tool." 

Near the tumulus of Dowth is St. 
Bernard's Well and ruined ch., the 
Litter containing' a very singular 
figure built into its S. wall. There 

e also remains of a castle, a large 
military rath about 300 yards round, 
supposed to be the fort of Dun-na- 
Gedh, where Domhnall gave his 
celebrated feast ; also a portion of a 
stone circle on the edge of a quarry 
overhanging the road. Dowth Castle 
is the estate of the late Lord Netter- 
ville, whose ancestor funned in the 



ground curious ramparts, baths, ponds, 
&c. 

The valley of the Boyne is here 
extremely beautiful ; the banks, which 
are in many places steep, are charm- 
ingly wooded and ornamented with 
fine residences, such as Townley Hall 
(B. T. Balfour, Esq.) and Oldbridge 
House (H. Coddington, Esq.). 

At 64 m., the point where the 
Mattock flows into the Boyne, the 
traveller arrives at the battle-field, 
where that decisive contest took 
place in 1690 which proved so fatal 
to the crown of James II. He will 
observe that the Boyne here flows E. 
and W., and that the area of the 
valley is bordered by a steepish hill, 
up w T hich the road to Drogheda is 
carried. In the centre of this area is 
the obelisk that marks the most 
important point in the field. 

On looking down the river, notice 
2 largish islands — Green and Yel- 
low Island— close to the river-side. 
Higher up is the obelisk, from which 
the road, following the stream, takes 
a considerable curve, immediately 
under the beautiful woods of Townley 
Hall. At tliis point the Boyne doubles 
round upon itself and flows from the 
S., receiving the small brook called 
the Mattock, that joins it just beyond 
Townley Hall; A still smaller tribu- 
tary emerges near the obelisk from a 
deep wooded ravine known as King 
William's Glen; and a 3rd glen is 
occupied by a rivulet which flows 
into the same side of the Boyne about 
1 m. nearer to Drogheda. On the 
opposite or S. side the visitor will 
notice Oldbridge (immediately oppo- 
site the obelisk), and above it, rising 
up in a succession of slopes, the hill 
of Donore, the summit of which will 
be about 1 m. from the bank of the 
river. "To the rt. or E. the hill 
fines off towards Drogheda 1J m. 
distant. Its western side abuts upon 
and is completely protected by the 
high precipitous banks of the Boyne, 
now covered by the plantations of 
the demesne of Farm. Immediately 



Ireland. 



EouU 15. — T/i> Bogne. 



I :i 



hind it. towards tl i S., the way 
lies « h u to 1 lubliu along the >> a- 
li •' h . The tide eom< - 
11 1 » as for as the \\ i ir just above win re 
k tails in. and In re the 
s fordable with difficulty. 
otln r and mucli shallower ford oc- 
curs a1 Yellow Island, passable at low 

.iiul hor» > in 
;ewas a villi 
n\ the battle. It is abso- 
lutely - try thai the visitor 
ouid make himself thoroughly ac- 
qu i with t - details b< fore 
m in - ind the plan of the 
rmv, having march< <1 
: Jn da, took up a posi- 
northern face of Do- 
|f passing the 
tie ch. "The hisb 
nations 
s, one a little 
lldbridge vil] , which 
intersi <-t< <1 by narrow 
nlv opposite the 
Th( English army. 
1 from Ardee <>n the 
0, took up its posi- 
. with its 
■ the hollow of 
j Gl< . and the left in 
11.1 ravim Drogheda. 

i an in- 
• 

I - : arroy, viz. 
. however, happ< ned 
V lliam as he 
the bank <>;' the 
•• I • 

- on the side 

! hillock by the v. 

little ljelow ' l< n, and 

ii ila- stones have been 

nil 1 ' i- lisk en cted 

it." Although the [rish 

; y I >rogheda on 

so on the L, and, 

"t' tlii-, "SN" ill 1 : i T t i 

00 m< n und( r the 
r to ci ord 

rhich they did I 

: to 

in. 



The 2nd passage of the river i I 

Oldbridge Was made at In 1 , a.m.. 

the tide being out, by Schomberg, 
who. with the Blue Dutch Guar< 
the Enniskilleners, and the French 
Huguenots, emerged from the ravine 
opposite Grove Island, and dashed 
into the water, when the brave old 
general met Ids death in the en- 
counter. "Without defensive armour 
he rode through tin- riverand rallied 
the refugees, whom the fall of Caille- 
niot had dismayed. ■ Come on. lie 
cried to the French, pointing to tl e 
Pi pish Bquadrons ; ' come on, gentle- 
men, there are youi persecutors. 1 As 
he -i oke a band of Irish horsemen 
rushed upon him and encircled bim 
for a moment. When they r» tin d ho 
was on the ground. His friends raised 
him : but he was already a coi pse. 
Almost at the same moment, Walk< r, 
Bishop of 1 terry, while exhorting the 
colonists of Ulster to play the men, 
was shot dead." — ; Macaulay. 

"The 3rd passage was effected by 
the Danes ami Germans at a shallow 
between the 2 principal islands, where 
the water must have been up to their 
armpits; while the 1. wing, entirely 
composed of cavalry, passed or swam 
across opposite the eastern valh y 
which inter-- cts the hill of Tully- 
alh n and eft; eted a Landing, ap- 

. nily with little opposition, at a 
v« ry d( • )> and dangi n >us pari «»t" the 
river, marly opposite one of the 
I ish batteries, and where the margin 
of the stream is wet and swampy. 
I [( re it was, how< v« r, thai William 
himself, with his arm in a sling from 
the etV< cts of his wound, plunged 
into the str< am with < Sol. Woolst< 
and passed with great difficulty, for 
his horse was bogged on the other 
Bide, and he was forc< d to alight till 
a gentli man helped him to -■ I his 
horse out."- Wild* . In this ar< a 

,000 men on the English side w« re 
• d with 16, ' ' Irish, in addi- 
tion to the 10,000 English who had 

issed at Blane, and w< re < ccupied 
with the [rish 1. wine. I mlt 



U'2 



Ii ute 16. — Droglieda to Cavan. 



Ireland. 



of the hat tic is well known : the 
Irish army falling hack on Donore, 
and finally retreating to Dnleck, 
where they passed the night, while 
King James himself fled to Dublin, 
which he reached ahout 10 o'clock 
that night. 

It is to be hoped that the bitter 
animosities of party spirit which were, 
until very lately, so rampant on this 
subject, are becoming softened by 
time and the interchange of greater 
good will and forbearance. For more 
intimate details of the topography 
and incidents of the battle, the 
tourist is referred to Sir W. Wilde's 
exhaustive memoir on the Boyne, to 
which, as well as to the learned 
author's personal help and leader- 
ship, the writer of this notice is very 
greatly indebted. 

From the battle-field the traveller, 
should he not wish to visit Mellifont. 
now, soon rejoins the great N. road 
and arrives at 

65 m. Droglieda (Hotel, Imperial), 
Kte. 2. 



ROUTE 16. 

FROM DROGHEDA TO NAVAN, KELLS, 
AND CAVAN, BV RAIL. 

The branch rly. to Oldcastle, 36 m. 
in length, runs ' through as well- 
wooded and well-watered a dis- 
trict as any in Ireland, and for the 
antiquary a district richly stored with 
historic remains. It follows the S. 
hank of the Boyne, although, until 
the traveller arrives at Beauparc, the 
high grounds intervene and shut it 
out. The river is crossed at Navan, 
and the valley of the Blackwatcr 
oiscended from hence. 



4 J m. From Duleek Stat, a lane 
on rt. leads 1J m. to the small 
hamlet and ruined ch. of Donore 
(Kte. 15), where James II. passed 
the night before his hopes were 
finally defeated at the battle of the 
Boyne. From Donore the Irish army 
" retreated in tolerable order towards 
Duleek, towards which place the left 
wing, already beaten above Kosnaree, 
had retired. Here with the Nanny 
water between them both parties 
halted for the night, with the excep- 
tion of King James, who fled to 
Dublin, which he reached about 10 
o'clock." — Wilde. A ch. was founded 
here in the 5th cent., by St. Kieran, a 
disciple of St. Patrick, and was called 
Duleek or Dam-liag, " because it was 
the first that was built with lime 
and mortar — and was so called from 
leac, a stone." — Vallancey. This ch. 
gave place to a priory for canons 
regular, founded in 1182 by Hugh De 
Lacy, who made it subject to that of 
Llanthony in Monmouthshire, and at 
the dissolution its possessions, which 
were large, were granted to Sir 
Gerald Moore, ancestor of the Dro- 
glieda family. 

The ruins, of E. Eng. date, 
consist of a spacious nave 100 ft. 
in length by 20 ft. broad, lighted 
at the W. end by a 3-light lancet 
window, and terminated by a rather 
massive tower of 2 stages. Under 
the E. window are the armorial 
bearings of Sir John Bellew, 1587. 
Here is also the tombstone of an 
ecclesiastic. Adjoining the village is 
the demesne of the now extinct 
family of Earl of Thomond, entered 
by a castellated gateway that once 
led to the abbey. The Nanny, a 
small stream, is crossed by an old 
bridge, built by William Bathe of 
Athcarne and Genet his wife in 
1587. On the banks of the same 
river, 2 J m. W., is the ancient seat of 
the de Bathe family, 

Athcarne Castle (J. Gernon, Esq.), 
a large square Elizabethan building, 
defended at the angles by quadran- 



I 



R ■'•'• 16. — Navan. 



I ! 



ilnr towers, the whole of which * 
merlv surrounded by a fosse. 2 
in. i.» the W. of Atlicarne is Somer- 
ville, the beautiful seat of Lord Atti- 
lumn< 

m. rt. is PlatteD House J. 

Aril. Esq. . built on the site of 

oastle me of Edward III.. 

1 by Sir John D'Arcy Lord 

if [reland). 

the turnpike-road t<> Slane, 

tin- rly. arrn - ; t L2 in. />'< <"> pare 

u- t-> Beauparc I [ouse, 

tip i inbart, Esq., situated 

ii*>n commanding an ex- 

- rt. •• Beyond the fall 

- through the 

'i the it. the 

iparc pe< 

of 
. 
• ivy-mantled walls of 

;'n< m- 

the «lark plantation, 

k, here twisted 

in: ntortions, breaks 

through the surface and relieves the 

t satiated with the endh as 

h ni colour and foliagi 

pedestrian 

can £lane in :\\ in. From 

rlv. k< rlv parallel 

\ IV; i n. 

• in. 1. Le I tollardston House, and 
\ Ic in House J. II. 

win - (•»• 

Dunmore ch. ami 

I » nagh- 

i I.' ' <>-in_r t li< r 

Hotel : B 
town, with a Po 
some lio have by no n 

* i ifa pictun sque - ion 
tin Blackwater with 
. but " like tluwe of m 
rh which a r\ 
1 tli» 

_rliin].><- of wliirh 
can I m any of 

With 1 1 1 • 

racttu 
su infirm ad 



gaol, it has little to interest the 
tourist : though in the L6th cent, it 
was sufficiently important to have 
attracted a marauding expedition of 
the O'Neills and O'Donnells. lis 
ancient nana 1 was Nuachongbhail, 
and it was originally walled. 

Many antiquities now in the Irish 
Academy were discovered in rlv. 
cuttings adjacent to the river, besides 
a singular subterranean passage en 
tin- W. hank near Athlnmnev. di- 
viding into 2 branches, which each 

ended in a rude circular hrchived 

chamber. Navan is a good central 

aition from whence to explore 
either secti< n of the Boyne, which by 
means of a canal has been rendered 
partly navigable. The tourist can 
cither drive or walkto Beauparc and 

;id the river and 
d by boat. 

( yancA s. - By rail to Drogheda, 
Kells. and I mblin. 

])i±t<t,< ■< g. —Slane, 8 m. : Droghedn, 
17: Beauparc, 5; Bective,6; Trim. 
12; Athlmnnev, 1J ; Donaghmore, 
IJ; BLells, 10. 

Excursions, — 

1. Trim and Bective (Itte. 15). 

2. Slane and Newgrange. 
:;. Kells. 

•1. 1 >uh-« 1: and Drogheda. 

The tourist dow quits the Boyne 
and follows the course of the Black' 
rout* r anc. Abhaim-mor . e river 
rising from Lough Ramor in the 
S.E. c oer of the county of ( iavan, 
which, after flowing for 20 m. in a 
winding lazy stream, joins the Boyne 
.it Navan, where they arc nearly of 
the same size. T aery of its 

by no meej 3 fine as that 
of the Boyne, but ii 1- equally rich 
in early remains. 

l:»l m. close to the line is Lis- 

rion Castle, a noble-looking old 
t fftn as partly inhabited , mainly 
"' •_' square towers con- 
neeted together by b central hall, 
the whole of which forms a massive 
quadrangular building. It was h< 
in 1' - William Talbot. Ad- 



1U 



Unite 16. — DrogJieda to Cavan. 



Ireland. 



joining it is the ch., containing 
some exquisite E. and W. windows 
(Dec.) with beautiful tracery. " Upon 
the exterior face may be observed 
well-carved human heads projecting 
from the dripstone." On the oppo- 
site bank is Rathaldr on (O&pt. Donald- 
son), another specimen of the old 
quadrangular tower, to which a cas- 
tellated mansion lias been added. 
The entrance is through a very fine 
avenue of limes. Between this spot 
and Navan is the mutilated cross of 
Nevinstown, which from the re- 
searches by Mr. D. H. Smith appears 
to have been erected in memory of a 
knight of the Cusack family 158S. 
On 1. of the line to the S. of 
Liscarton is Ardbraccan (Bp. of 
INIeath). 

[21 J m. rt., on the opposite bank 
of the river, is the ch. of Do- 
naglipatrick, occupying the site of 
Domnachpadraig, the great ch. of St. 
Patrick, celebrated in the Book of 
Armagh for being 60 feet long — 
" pedibus ejus lx. pedum." This was 
the length prescribed by St. Patrick 
for this ch., " which the Prince 
Conall, the brother of the monarch 
Laoghaire, was to erect for him." — 
Petrie. The king even gave up his 
house for a site. Near the ch. is a 
specimen of the military rath, con- 
sisting of a mound rising out of as 
many as 4 successive embankments 
or circumvallations. Sir W. Wilde 
considers it to be the finest example 
of the kind in Ireland ; but it is to 
be regretted that planting operations 
have to a great extent concealed it, 
and that at least one half of the 
lines of circ'umvallation have 
been levelled. A little further, 
on the same side of the river, Ave 
come to Telton House, occupying 
the gradually sloping bank of a hill 
which rises 292 ft. above the sea. 
The summit is crowned by a fort, 
Bath Dubh, which measures 321 
paces in circumference and has 
openings N. and S. This was the 
site of the ancient joulace of Tailtean, 



one of the 4 celebrated royal resi- 
dences of Ireland, and for ages 
immemorial the locale of a great fair, 
established in the year of the world 
3370, in remembrance of Taillfe, 
" wife of the last kin or of the Fir- 
bolgs." — Annals of the Four Masters.^ 
Up to the time of Koderick O'Connor, 
the last king of Ireland, this fair was 
regularly held, when series of games, 
such as boxing, wrestling, chariot- 
races, and sham aquatic fights carried 
on in artificial lakes, were the order of 
the day. In addition to these attrac- 
tions, it was the custom of all the 
lads and lasses who wished to try 
their luck to arrange themselves on 
either side of a high wall in which 
was a small opening, through which 
the female protruded her hand. If 
the swain admired it, the parties 
were married, an arrangement which, 
fortunately for both, only held good 
for a year and a day, when each 
was free to try their luck again. The 
proverb of a " Telton marriage " is 
not yet obsolete in Meath. Should 
the visitor not succeed in tracing the 
outworks of the fort or the site of the 
lakes to his satisfaction, he will at all 
events be rewarded by the magnifi- 
cent view, embracing, W., Kells, the 
woods of Headford, and the ranges of 
the Cavan mountains in the distance ; 
while E. he sees Liscarton, Eath- 
aldron, ISTavan, the hills of Tara and 
Skreen, and the wide green plains of 
Meath, watered by the Boyne and 
Blackwater, together with their tri- 
butaries, the Moynalty and Sile.] 

24 m. Ballybeg Stat., near which 
1. is Allenstown House (W. N. Waller, 
Esq.). 

27 m. Kelts (Inn, Hannons), a 
rather pleasant little town, contain- 
ing much that is interesting in the 
highest degree to the antiquary. 
Kells (anciently Ceanannus) was 
celebrated in early Christian ages as 
being the residence of St. Columb, 
to whom a grant was made by Dermot, 
the son of Fergus Kervaill, and who 
founded a monastery here in 550. 



! 



Bunt: 16,— Kells. 



145 



this at present 

o visitor will find '.\ remark- 

remains : 1, Tlie Louse of St. 

I dumb; 2, The round tower; and 

i - 3. 

The saint's house is of the same 

high-rooted buildings as St. 

K Kitchen at Glendalough, 

and i .' - a remarkable example of 

si cylindrical vaulting Rte. 

•• It is of a simple oblong form, 

1 with stone, and measures in 

l its bas to the vertex of 

. 3S ft. : and as the height 

if and width of the side 

nearly equal; the gab] 

y nearly equilateral triangles. 

T part of the building is 

semicircularly with stone, and 

!". md, a small semicir- 

ided window, about 15 ft. 

round ; and at the S. side 

2nd window, with a trian- 

ight-lined head, measur- 

: 1 fl ii. in height. These 

day considerably on the 

The present doorway in the 

inal or ancient ; 

doorway, which is 

" Up, was placed in the W. 

• a height <>t* S ft. from the 
• 
I floor and tic alant- 
r. high, and its to 

ly divided i 

ii 

i :. • 

l it. • 

build 

of 
with ru le ar- 
• 

rower, fr< quenl 
• 

cloictheach 

1 ! n markably perfect 

I- ' >0 ft. high, has a 

• •. i the ground, and - 

Ii- wliich present 

form commonly 

l 1 t<>w. rs, n i/. 

r . and triangular-headed. 



Of the ( , one, a little 

more than 11 it. high, is cloa 

to the town : three arc in the 
ch.-yard ; while the Cross of Kills, 
par excellence, is in the market- 
place. The visitor to Monaster- 
boice, near Droghcda, will at 
once recognise its similarity to the 
crosses there. The shaft, which is 
broken off at the top, is S ft. 9 
in. high ; the arms are 5 ft. 4 in. 
in width, and are connected hy 
a wheel, perfect save a small por- 
tion where the top of the shaft 
should be. The cross is mounted 
on a broad base, having on its side 
a good sculpture of mounted horse- 
men in procession ; i lso a •• remark- 
able group of 5 lighting figuri 3, 
'2 armed with spears and holding 
shields of a peculiar lunette shapi . 
The shaft is divided into 4 compart- 
ments, representing military and 
ecclesiastical subjects, while a full- 
length figure occupies the centre of 
the arms. As an instance of the 
respect paid to these exquisite memo- 
rials, it may he mentioned that as 
lately as 1708 this cross formed part 
of the gallows of Kells. The cli. is 
modern, hut the bell-tower, like the 
one at Athlone, stands apart. It con- 
's of "» st . and contains some 
tablets built into the walls, and a 
black-letter inscription recording its 
rebuilding in 1578. 

I ly a .-mall portion of a tOV 
belonging to the walls remains, 
although it i.-. known that Kells v, 
•ugly fortified and p ti£ — ed a 
buill by Walter de Lacy. The 
A anals of the Four Masters and th< 
of Tigernach record many incidents 
in the history of Kells, in which the 
town and churches sustained grievous 
losses and damage at the hand- of 

the native Irish, Norwegian hord 
and Danish robbers. It was de- 
stated by fire, the sword, and 

|m -tilenr-e many tiiia - : though the 

2 . >• ■ • • • rtrophi a w< I he 
destmctioi] of t! ■ bey in 1108 by 

i the sub 



116 



Route 16. — Droglieda to Cavan. 



Ireland. 



quent burning of the town by Ed- 
ward Bruce in 1315. 

Kells was celebrated, not only for 
its ecclesiastical greatness and sanc- 
tity, but also for its advancement in 
literature, evidenced by the produc- 
tion of the illuminated Book of Kells, 
now in the Museum of the Ro} r al Irish 
Academy, which, like its contem- 
porary the Book of Ballymote, gives 
great insight into the national pe- 
culiarities of that period, and is a 
marvellous example of elaborate 
ornamentation. A fine view is ob- 
tained from the Hill of Lloyd, which 
is crowned with a column 100 ft. 
high, erected by 1st Earl of Bective. 

About 6 m. W. of Kells are the 
moat and dun of Dimor, the former 
with a very large central mound and 
an outwork, like that at Newiy. 
The dun is more ordinary, but there 
is a chain of 7 or 8 others on the 
green hills in the neighbourhood. 
About 3 m. to the W. is Lough 
Crew, the seat of J. L. Napier, Esq. 

Kells is surrounded by many 
pleasant residences. The principal 
are Headfort, the seat of the Earl of 
Bective, adjoining the town, the 
woods and groves of which skirt and 
indeed occupy islands in the middle 
of the Blackw r ater; Oakley Park 
(G. Bomford, Esq.), Williamstown 
(W. S. Garnett, Esq.), Bloomesbury 
(R. Barnewall, Esq.), the Arch- 
deaconry (Archd. Stopford). 

Conveyances. — By rail to Droglieda 
and Dublin ; rly. to Oldcastle ; car 
to Baillieborough ; car to Bally- 
jamesdufY ; car to Clonmellon. 

Distances. — Navan, 10 m. ; Telton, 
5 ; Baillieborough, 14 ; Oldcastle, 14 ; 
Ballyjamesduff, 17 ; Virginia, 11 ; 
Athboy, 8 J; Kingscourt, 14 j ; Trim, 
16. 

[An excursion may be made to 
Trim, through Athboy, passing 1£ 
m. rt. Cannonstown (W. Sadlier, Esq.), 
and 5 J m. rt. Johnsbrook (J. Tandy, 
Esq.), and Drewstown. 

7 1 m. on 1. The ruined ch. or 
abbey of Rathmore contains a por- 



tion of a sepulchral cross and a 
monument erected to a member of 
the Plunket family 1531. 
. 8 J m. Atliboy (anc. Ath-brudhe- 
Tlachtga), "the Yellow Ford," an 
inconsiderable little town, situ- 
ated on the Atliboy stream, wdiich 
falls into the Boyne. There is a 
very handsome R. C. chapel here, 
with a steeple 90 ft. high. To the 
E. of the town rises the hill of Ward, 
390 ft., celebrated like Tailtean for 
being the site of the palace of 
Tlaclitga, and the locale of a great 
fair, " when the fire of Tlaclitga 
was ordained to be kindled on the 
31st October, to summon the priests 
and augurs to consume the sacrifices 
offered to their gods." — Crawford. 

\\\ m. rt. is Clifton Lodge, the 
residence of the Earl of Darnley, who 
obtains the title of Athboy from this 
town. From hence the road ap- 
proaches the valley of the Boyne to 
16 m. Trim (Rte. 15).] 

From Kells the rly. extends a 
few miles further to Oldcastle ; but 
the tourist should take the road to 
Virginia, which crosses the Black- 
water at Clavens Bridge 29 in., and 
thence keeps the 1. bank. 

30 J m. on the side of the river 
are the chapel and well of St. Kieran, 
with the " remains of 5 termon crosses 
in its vicinity, 4 of which are placed 
N., S., E., and W. of the river. The 
northern one was erected hi a ford 
in the river, a very remarkable situa- 
tion for one of these early Christian 
structures." — Wilde. This is ac- 
counted for by the story that St. Kieran 
erected these crosses with a great deal 
of trouble, and that St. Columb, wdio 
w r as then building at Kells, envied 
them so greatly that he determined 
to abstract one. The saint had got 
halfway across the river with the 
stone on Iris back when St. Kieran 
awoke and caught him. A struggle 
took place, in which St. Columb 
threw the base of the cross down in 
the bed of the river, where it has 
ever since remained. The ch. is a 



Boute 17. — Mtdlingar to Portadoion. 



117 



1 1 1 r building of the 14th 
built on arches, 
so sorl of crypt. 

• • Her arrives at the 

i l; oior, from whence 

I iter emerges, and fbl- 

\ tho lough and 

si >pca of Ballybrush 

. a neat pretty town, 

1 " in pursuance 
Ionizing Ulster in the 
1 mes I., when 2i - were 

town, called 
\ . • icli v 

. but was never in- 

- / Tin re is a 

ch., which replaced 

ni do ad partly 

AtE the X. of 

\ ... of anl 

i g la was dis- 

J. Kelly. 

/ out 5 m. in length, 

and • ' with 

by t!;' M rquess of 

ho has an i 31 te close 

1 ae lak< id in the 

b\>ur M 

rhbouring height, 

( . mil it receives 

I Y Sole, which is 

j h the 

in the 



II 






•1 the 1 

the riv< r ■ 
St. Pat k cu 
istil ti ae 

• K>k the name of 
• B ■'<■. ter. 

1 , r ,a. — ( ';ir t < 

\ B St it. 

I . l.< in. : K. lis, 

.7}; 
• ' ' I ; llkborou 

much 



pastun 



Her !• 
imself gra'lu.illy 



!.") in. New Inn [from whence a 
road on 1. branches off to 3 m. a 
small town o\' the euphonious name 
of Ballyjamesduffi passing on the way 
a serpentine sheet of water called 
Lough Nadrageel.] The way Lies 
over a dreary country, having on 1. 
the conspicuous Cavan mountains 
Ardkilmore 767, and Blieve (Hah 
1057 ft 

At 51 J m. on rt. is the village of 

lorn . with, adjoining it, Btradone 

House, the residence of El. Burrowes, 

Esq., from whence an uninteresting 

drive of 6 m. brings the tourist to 

57J m, the dirty little county town 
of Cavern II /• / . ; Globe). Kte. 17. 



ROUTE 17. 

FROM MULLINGAR TO PORTADOWN 
THROUGH CAVAN AND ARMAGH. 

A branch of the Midland Great 
Western Rly M which for some dis- 
tance La also common to the Long- 
ford Line Rte. 18\ conveys the 
traveller to Cavan, where a conrn i - 
lately 1m stablished with 
the North by means of the Clones 
branch of the Irish North-Western 
I ' tnpany. 

1 1 hi. I i . -in F7ooiStat.il is6|m.rt 

Castle-Pollard Kte. is , through 
the village of Coole and the d< - 

I \ urbotstown J. A. J >e 
Esq. . From hence the rly. pursu 

northerly course through a very 
uninviting and dreary country, pe 

i - bl 1. Fernsborough and the 
num d eh. of AM- 3 lara, in the tower 

which is a | qvt ly Bculptured 

q Qgq 

i I :... BdUywfflan Btai, close to 

ii 2 



148 



Route 17. — Mullingar to Portadoivn. 



Ireland 



a small sliect of water on rt. called 
Lough Kinile, which is connected 
by a short stream with Lough Shee- 
lin. This is one of the largest lakes 
in the county of Cavan, 4J m. in 
length, and covering an area of 8000 
Irish acres. On the E. shore is the 
small village of Blount Nugent, and on 
the S. of the lake is the ruined castle 
of Eoss, beyond which the hills of 
Knocklaid form a very pleasing 
landscape. 

[3J in. 1. of the stat. is the little 
town of Granard (Inn: Granard). 
It was burned by Bruce in 1315, 
but afterwards rose to importance in 
the reign of James I. Hard by 
is the Moat of Granard, a consider- 
able artificial mound, believed to 
have been built by the Danes as a 
defensive post, and worth ascending 
for the sake of the view. 

Some 3 or 4 m. to the N.W. is 
Lough Gowna, an irregularly-shaped 
lake, the shores of which in some 
places are steep and well wooded. 
On the island of Inchmore, at the S. 
end, is a ruined ch. The banks 
are adorned by pleasant residences — 
Derrycassan (Capt. Dopping-Hepen- 
stal), Erne Head (H. Dopping, Esq.), 
Woodville (O. Lambert, Esq.), an<J 
Frankford. The river Erne issues 
from its N. end.]. 

From this point the country be- 
comes still more boggy and dreary, 
though the monotony on the rt. is re- 
lieved by the picturesque elevations of 
the Cavan Hills, which rise conspicu- 
ously to the height of 760 ft., in- 
creasing at Slieve Glagh to 1050 ft. 
On the 1. the line runs parallel with, 
though not very, near to, the river 
Erne. 

In the neighbourhood of 31 m. 
Crossdoney Stat, are Lismore and 
Bingfield (J. Storey, Esq.). 

36 m. Cavan (Inn: Globe). This 
dirty little town (Top. 3209) will 
not induce the visitor to make a 
long stay, although it is situated 
in a very pleasing country, diversi- 
fied by plenty of wood and water. 



It contains the usual county struc- 
tures, such as gaol, infirmary, bar- 
racks, &c, and a pretty spired 
ch., which, though in the town, 
belongs to the parish of Urney. It 
once contained the castle of the 
O'Reillej'S, and a monastery for the 
Dominican order, but they have 
long since disappeared. A sharp 
contest took place at Cavan in 1690 
between a body of James II.'s troops 
and the redoubtable Enniskilleners 
under their gallant leader Wolseley ; 
when the latter, who only numbered 
1000, attacked the Duke of Ber- 
wick's reinforcements and utterly 
routed them. In the neighbourhood 
of Cavan is Farnham Castle, the 
beautiful residence of Lord Farn- 
ham. 

[3 m. distant, on the road to 
Crossdoney, is the seat of the an- 
cient bishopric of Kilmore (anc. 
Cill-mhor-na-mBreathnach), the first 
dignitary being one Andrew Mae- 
brady, in 1154, although previous to 
that time prelates had been appointed 
who were styled Bishops of Breffni. 
In 1585 the see became Protestant, 
and was united in 1752 to Tuam, but, 
under the Church Temporalities Act, 
is now associated with Elphin and 
Ardagh. The cathedral, which 
has been restored, possesses no 
particular feature of interest, save 
a richly-sculptured Norm, doorway 
that was removed from the abbey 
of Trinity Island in Lough O ligh- 
ter. Near the ch. is the Episcopal 
Palace. " The country immediately 
connected with Kilmore and Farn- 
ham exhibits a well-cultivated, and, 
at the same time, a pleasing rural 
character. The small lakes, which 
are thickly scattered over a surface 
of 76 square miles, by their laby- 
rinthine windings give to that space 
the appearance of lake and island in 
alternate series. They are the prin- 
cipal feeders of the Erne, and are 
connected with each other by small 
rivers." — FraserJ} 

Distances.— Kells, 31 m. ; Virginia, 



Ireland. Route 17. — Bdturbet — Monaghan, 



149 



-. 17 : Newton Butler, 14 ; 
Kilm ►re, 3 ; Mullingar, :>G; Beltur- 
t, 11. 
( 8, — Rail to Mullingar 

I ( lon< 3. Car.- daily to Kelts and 
Monaghan. 

A rly. lias been opened to Clones, 
where it joins the Dundalk and En- 

skillen line. The high road pass 
through a pretty English country, 
well planted and well wooded. 

rRt. a road - off to Balhj- 

4 m.. a small town, with a 
place l'uilt on arches. CI 

Ballyhaise 1 louse W. 

impkn • 3, Es ,. . the front of which 

jo curiously ornamented with 

3. 

/;,//■ , "> Brid , the river 

aeai itsju] 

I . 

. . I Bill Miss Sann- 

r which a road 

i. BeUurbet, a 

Erne crossed 

brid_ ' 3 arches), b little 

i the expansion of 

into the Upper Lough 

E means of the waters of 

inhabitants have com- 

- far as 1 ' " ek, 3 m. 

lition to the 

C the Erne a ) 

A good d< d 
iri c irri d on iii corn 
Tl 

i 

; . 1 to 
it. 
most of the 
rhood, t] 
u]) fighting in 
. prior 
Butler, 
>wn, which 1. 

] 



A little beyond Castle Baunder- 

son, 46J in. 1. (E. J. Saundc r- 
SOn, Esq.), the road CJOSSeS the 
Ulster Canal, that connects Lough 
Erne with Lough Neagh, and runs 
parallel with it to 51 in. the pic- 
turesquetown of Clones, described in 
Bte. (!, from whence the traveller 

can proceed by rail to EnnisMllen 
or Dundalk. 

57 m. Smithborough, an uninterest- 
ing little place, founded, as its name 
implies, by a Mr. Smith. 

63 in. Monaghan {Hotel: Westenra 

Arms), a neat and thriving county 
town, hut nut offering sufficient in- 
terest to induce a prolonged visit 
Top. 3010). Of so modern a date 
it, that on the Bettlemenl of Ulster. 
at t\.L- beginning of the 17th cent., 
when the Lord Deputy came hither 
to make arrangements respecting tho 
forfeited lands, there was scarcely a 
house in which lie and his train could 
he accommodated, and they were 
consequently obliged to pitch tents. 
The chief owner of the district is 
Lord Bossmore, whose beautiful scat 
of Bossmore is a little to the S. on 
the road to Xewbliss. The principal 
square in the town is called the Dia- 
mond, and contains a linen-hall. 

Conveyances. — Daily to Cootehill, 
to EnnisMllen, to Omagh. By rail to 
Armagh, Portadown, and Clones. 

Distai .- -Armagh, 16 m. ; Porta- 
down, 2<;.- Clones, 12; Cavan, 27; 
N wbliss, 10; Cootehill, lo ; Emy- 
vale, 7. 

In the neighbourhood of Mona- 
ghan are Bossmore Lord Bossmore . 
Bally beck (J, Brownlow, Esq. , Bran- 
drum Major Coote , Mount Louise 
B. Evatt,Esq. . Castle Shane Bom 
Lucas , Be< fahil] W. Murray, 

i 'in la nee tin- rly. | 3 through 

an nninb g hilly country to 

I lough, ;i small town, the 

parish >•'•. of which has a t i t 

I P. it is Hie ft 

I ' Lesli ; longing 



150 



Route 17. — Mullingar to Portadovm, Ireland, 



to the Leslie family), on the banks 
of a small lake. 

Conveyances. — Car to Cloghcr, 
Auglmacloy, and Fivemile Town. 

72 m. rt. Tynan. A portion of a 
stone cross, with bosses and line 
pattern, defaced by Cromwell, stands 
by the roadside near the cli.-yard. 
There is a smaller one over a well in 
the grounds of Tynan Abbey, the 
seat of Sir J. M. Stronge, Bart. 

About 1 m. Lis Caledon, a thriving 
little market town, that has prospered 
under the auspices of the family of 
the Earl of Caledon, wdiose extensive 
park adjoins. It was formerly known 
by the name of Kenuard, and was the 
head-quarters of Sir Phelim O'Neil, 
who in the 17th cent, successfully 
held the county of Tyrone for 
several years against the English. 

79 m. Armagh {Hotels : Beresford 
Arms ; Royal), a finely situated cathe- 
dral town, and the see of the Primate 
of all Ireland (Pop. 8969). " No city is 
so rich in historical associations, and 
3*et has so little to show and so little 
to tell in the present day, as Armagh. 
St. Patrick's first ch. is now re- 
presented by the Bank of Ireland; 
the Provincial Bank comes close on 
St. Columb's; St. Bride's shares its 
honours with a paddock; : St. Peter 
and St. Paul afford stabling and 
garden-produce to a modern rus 
in urhe; and St. Mary's is lost in 
a dwelling-house." — Beeves. There 
seems to be little doubt but that 
St. Patrick founded the early ch. 
in the 5th cent, on ground known as 
Druim sailech, "the Eidge of Sal- 
low," given to the saint by Daire, 
the clrieftain of the district. The hill 
was called Rathdaire, and subse- 
quently Ard-macha, after an Irish 
heroine of doubtful identity. Here, 
shortly after the foundation of the 
ch., was buried Lupita, the sister of 
St. Patrick. 

The early history of the ch. embraces 
a long list of mishaps, long even for 
Irish religious establishments, which 
were particularly liable to misfortune. 



For 5 cents, or more it had to bear 
the repeated attacks of the Danes and 
other marauders, who, not content 
with plundering, burnt the city to 
the ground as often as it was rebuilt. 
The most complete ruin, however, was 
sustained at the hands of a native 
chieftain, O'Neil, in 1566, who re- 
duced the cathedral to ashes. " Pri- 
mate Loftus assailed the destroyer 
with the spiritual weapon of excom- 
munication, and rejected his pretext,, 
which was that he burned the ca- 
thedral to prevent the English troops* 
from polluting its sanctuary by lodging 
within its w T alls. ONeil was shortly 
after most inhumanly butchered in 
the Scottish camp, and his body 
thrown into a pit, wdiere it lay 
inhumed for several days, until one 
William Piers disinterred it, and,, 
severing the head, sent it ' pickled in 
a pipkin' to the Lord Deputy at 
Drogheda."— Wright. 

Previous to the destruction by the 
Danes, Armagh was famous for its 
school of learning, the Alma Mater of 
many of the early scholars, viz. Aigil- 
bert, Bishop of the Western Saxons,. 
Gildas Albanus, and others. There 
is still a royal school here founded 
by Charles I. 

Since the Reformation Armagh 
has been fortunate in its archbishops, 
the bulk of whom exercised their 
influence to benefit the metropoli- 
tan see. Of these the principal 
were Primates Ussher, Hoadley, and 
Robinson, who, after his translation 
from the bishopric of Kildare, was 
created Baron Rokeby. To the late 
primate Armagh owes the restorations- 
of the cathedral, at a cost of 30,00QZ., 
from his own private wealth ; also the 
erection of the episcopal residence,, 
the town library, and the observatory, 
which has contributed very largely 
to the annals of astronomical science. 

The city is very finely situated 
on the slopes of a steep hill, the 
summit crowned by the venerable 
cathedral, while separated by valleys 
arise other hills, one of which is- 



LAND. 



Route 17. — Armagh — Cathedral, 



151 



idorn< d by the new 1J. ('. 
eclral. The visitor wiD mark 
with pleasure the substantial and 
rly streets, the clean trottoir, the 
prettily wooded mall, and the gene- 
ral appearance of prosperity and good 
ment. Th< geologist maydis- 
d many limestone shells in the 

cathedral, which is in the 

\ a close at the top of the 

- n cruciform ch., consisting 

with aisles, choir, and tran- 

with a massive and rather low 

from the intersection. 

I pre\ ious to the r- cent altera- 

sunnounting the tower, 

ii rcmo^ cd, and with the 

\\( r, which is lighted 

ch Bide, should 

I < i by the tourist for the Bake 

.f and beautiful view. 

i each aisle 

4 point ch - with round* d 

ply moulded pillars, and is 

t i ' windows, with 4 

windows above. At the 

A\ lancet-headed 3-light, 

9, there being 
Per]). I window at t 

; f is Of 

v, 11 can id ornamented 

The i mtains 

! Sir T. Molyneux, 

! ubillia Dr. Stuart, late 

1 Chant i labor I 

. brotl Kelly; 
R Innson ; in the \. 
Dr< rt, I'd!. by 

S d mouldi 

■'■ . . and an < oal 

d font ; ai 
• 
l " Primate, 1 

1. V • is 

u> 

• 

ir is 
bcuIj 

' it • < 1 I u- 

I I .. 

1 has Thi 

I 



enabled to be rung by one person. 
The whole cathedra] is pleasing and 
grateful to the English eye, for every 
portion of it denotes a careful and 
zealous watch over it. The organ 
is good, and the choral service very 
well performed. The tourist should 
visit Primate Robinson's library, over 
the door of which is inscribed to 
tj]s tyvxvs larpeLov, and also the 
observatory, which, with the astrono- 
mer's residence, is situated a short 
distance out of the town in prettily 
planted gardens. The scientific vi- 
sitor will receive every attention either 
from the principal, Dr. T. Bomney 
Robinson or the sub-astronomer, Mr. 
Rambaut. About I J m. from the town 
is the Palace Right Rev. the Arch- 
bishop), a fine block of building 
i . icted by Primate Robinson, together 
with a private chapel, and an obe- 
lisk commanding views over beau- 
tiful grounds. A very conspicuous 
feature in Armagh is the 17. C. cathe- 
dral, not yet finished, but which pro- 
mises to be a magnificent building 
in Dec. style. 

Of all the chs. and religious 
establishments that Armagh ever 
boasted, nothing remains, though thi 
archaeological visitor may visit the 
Bite of Emania, known as the Navan 
Fort, which occupies an area of 12 
acres, a little distance from the city. 
it is Baid to have been the seat of 
the Ulster sovereignty for 600 years, 
during which period a series of hi: 
reigned here prior to the year 332 ! 
Tn e it is elliptical, embracing 

oi 12 acres. "In the townland 
of Tray there is b mound to which 
tradition assigns the name of the 
i\ ing's Si .ud immediately ad- 

jaci >n1 was the palace of the Knights 
or ( Ihampi :' the ( 'uraidhe na 

I aubh Buadh, or the Knig] 
th- Eft Branch.' 1 — Doyh . An in- 

ting pamphlet ho writt 

by the li« v. Dr. & on i 

\ •< nt ( Ihurchi a of An 
which the antiquary should consult. 
■ ■ ■ i nument exists 



152 



Moute 18. — Mullingar to Sligo. 



Ireland. 



on the banks of the Cullan Water 
on the road to Keady, in a mound 
that marks the tomb of Nial Caille, 
who, when his army was drawn up 
in battle array against the Danes, 
perished in an attempt to save one 
of his men who had fallen into the 
river.* 

A little to the S. is Market Hill, 
with the Vicar's Cairn 849 ft. high. 
Adjoining the town is Gosford Castle, 
the seat of the Earl of Gosford. 

The neighbourhoods of Armagh 
and Keady are celebrated for the 
production of brown and coloured 
linens, such as blouses, and hollands 
for window blinds, the tint of which 
is obtained by soaking the goods in 
solution of muriate of tin and cate- 
chu. After this operation they are 
glazed and finished by means of a 
" beetling " machine. This operation 
can be seen at Messrs. Kirk's factory 
in Keady, where 200 beetling ma- 
chines are employed. 

Conveyances. — By rail to Clones, 
Monaghan, Portadown, and Newry. 
Car to Keady and Castle Blayney. 

Distances. — Monaghan, 16 m. ; 
Portadown, 10 ; Richhill, i ; Keady, 
7J ; Moy, 7 J ; Blackwatertown, 5. 

83 m. Eichhill, another small town 
on rt. occupying high ground. In 
the demesne of Castle Dillon (Sir T. 
Molyneux, Bart.) adjoining is an obe- 
lisk erected by Sir Cap el Molyneux to 
commemorate the Irish volunteers, 
1782. From hence the line runs 
through an agricultural district to 

89 m. Portadown (Kte. 3), where a 
junction is effected with the Ulster 
and the Dundalk rlys. 

* The same legend, however, is current on 
the banks of the Xore, near Thomastown. 



ROUTE 18. 

FROM MULLINGAR TO SLIGO, THROUGH 
LONGFORD, CARRICKONSHANNON, 
AND BOYLE. 

A rly. extends from Mullingar to 
Longford, Carrick, Boyle, and Sligo, 
branching from the Midland Great 
Western at Mullingar (Kte. 14), and 
passing on 1. the barracks and union- 
house. 

2 m. 1. is Levin^ton Park (R. H. 
Levinge, Esq.), immediately after 
which the broad waters of Lough 
Oivel (anc. Lough Uair) open out, 
the rly. running close alongside 
of it for the whole distance, 5 
m. in length. The area of this 
lake occupies 2295 acres; and al- 
though the scenery around it is by 
no means striking, the wooded hills 
and numerous fine seats on its banks 
give it a pleasant and sheltered 
aspect. On the opposite side is 
Portloman, the residence of J. De 
Blaquiere, Esq., in whose grounds 
are slight remains of an abbey ch. 
3J m. rt. are Ballynagall (T. J. 
Smyth, Esq.), and Knockdrin Castle, 
the seat of Sir Richard Levinge, 
Bart., M.P. for county Westmeatb. 
At the upper end of the lake, on 
the W. side, is Mountmurray (H. 
Murray, Esq.), and close to the rly. 
1., Woodlands (E. Maxton, Esq.), and 
Clonhugh, a seat belonging to the 
Earl of Granard. 

The angler can get good sport in 
Lough Owe], the trout running from 
1 to 10 lb. The best season is about 
the time of the May-fly. 

GJ m. Clonhugh Stat. 7| m. close 
to Multifarnham Stat., amidst the 
trees on the 1., is Wilson's Hospital, 
an establishment founded by the 
late Mr. Andrew Wilson, who be- 
queathed 4000Z. a year for the edu- 
cation of Protestant orphans, and 



I 



13. — Lough Derevaragh. 



153 



the maintenance of a certain 

nun: 1 old nun. In the village 

1 ruins of MultiYimilutm 

A . remarkable chiefly for its 

- [uare stei pie, i'* 1 ft. in 

] _ This house was founded for 

< tual Franciscans in 1236 by 
William l 1 lamere, and was noto- 

for having maintained its early 

lour later than any other esta- 

• although formally 

I by Henry VIII., those Id 

whom it v inted did not dis- 

monks, who in 1622, even 

ptod t lie formation of a branch'of 

,t Mullingar." — L< 1 1 

Civil War 

1 here, for 

driven away. 

returned again in 

i --.... ; .-till 

i\\\ if the ch, 

[Ab ul 2 the E. of Multi- 

is L I > ■ varagh, an 

j •< I lake about (> m. 
.Ita expanse is in 

. portion, where it receii 

m known as the 

I I - banks are 1 and 

■ southern end the 

ry iii wonderfully, be- 

tg am The lake here 

I La bounded i ch 

i hills— on the W. by 

on tli' I '.. 

K ] . •■■ hich ri- 

1 • i the 
liill is an old 
I ' 

M- 

asantr I summit 

m the 

of the 

In- 

! ' X ID. 

\- 1 Irish 

< A 

K ki'.n La 

I ' 

I . ! : in I 

y IV. 1 



the lake arc studded With scats: on 
the W. Monintown, and Donore, 
the residence of Sir Peroy Nugent, 
Bart.; and on the N. bank Coolure 
Right Hon. Sir R. Pakenham). 

2 m. to E. of the lake is Casfie 
Pollard {Inn: Reilly's) a pleasant 
little agricultural town, in the imme- 
diate neighbourhood of the finely- 
wooded estates of Pakenham Hall 
the Earl of Longford), and Kinturk 
Major Urquhart, M.P.). [The anti- 
quary will find at the village of Fore 
anc. Fobhar-fechin), 2£m. on the road 
to Kells, the remains of an ahbey 
founded by St Fechin in 630, and 
rebuilt by De Lacy in the 13th cent. 
It was an important establishment, 
containing 3000 monies, and known 
locally as Ballylichen, "the Town 
of Book.-." The remains are, how- 
ever, much more of a military 
than ecclesiastical character, and 
stand on a rock in the middle of a 
morass. 

The village also contains portions 
of the ancient walls, a square tower 
used as a burial place of the Del- 
vin family, and a defaced stone cross. 
The ch. of St, Fechin (who died of a 
at plague in 664) is remarkable for 
its doorway. "It is perfectly Cy- 
clopean in character, constructed al- 
•thcr of 6 stones, including the 
lintel. It has a plain architrave over 
which, how* ver, is nol continu 1 
al< og ii - Bides, and above this there 
i projecting tablet, in the centre' 
which is sculptured e plain cross 
within a circle." — Petrie.] 

1 ., ( ostle Pollard the tourist 
who is on his way t<> Cavan may 
rejoin the H\ . at Float Stat. Rte. 17,. 
I rtlc Pollard is a good rendezvous 
for the angler, who will find plenty 
of (an d troul in Lough Dereva- 

ragh.] 

l ! i,!., after cri tream 

i connects the Last-named Lough 

with Lough iron, the Line d ach< 

I Junction Rte. J 7 . 

13 m. (he rlv. the county 

ji 3 



151 



Boute 18. — BlalUngar to Sligo. 



Ireland. 



of Longford ; 1. 1 m. the village of 
Rathowen, near the small lake of 
Glen Lough. In the neighbourhood 
are Newpark (J. Auchnmty, Esq.), 
and Ilockfield (M. Crawford, Esq.). 

17 m. Edgeworthslown, though in 
itself only a neat, plain village, has 
acquired an interest that will never 
fade away on account of the social 
benefits that have accrued, not only 
to Ireland, but to the world at large, 
from the Edgeworth family. It 
has been established here ever 
since the year 1583, the first of the 
family who came to Ireland having 
been made Bishop of Down and 
Connor. Each generation of the 
Edgeworths was remarkable for their 
endeavours to improve the social con- 
dition of those around them, and 
none were more conspicuous in their 
efforts than the late Mr. Richard 
Edgeworth, who lived at the com- 
mencement of the present century, 
and was far ahead of his age in 
scientific knowledge and practice, 
as well as in his views on Irish 
education and questions of political 
economv. The charming novels of 
Miss Edgeworth,. his daughter, have 
been read by all the world, and 
need no more than a passing allu- 
sion. Apart from these associations, 
Edgeworthstown House is a plain, 
comfortable mansion, with no par- 
ticular architectural beauties .about 
it. The ch. should be visited on 
account of its steeple, an ingenious 
contrivance of the late Mr. Edge- 
worth. It was formed of iron, covered 
with slates, and was cleverly hoisted 
into its position by means of wind- 
lasses — 

"The chimney widened and grew higher, 
Became a steeple with a spire." 

In the neighbourhood of Edge- 
worthstown are Colamber ( — Black- 
all, Esq.), Whitehill House (H. 
Wilson Slator, Esq.), and Lissard 
(J. L. 0'Ferrall,Esq.). AtFirmount, 
which is a portion of this property, 



resided the Abbe Edgeworth, who 
attended Louis XVI. to the scaffold 
as his confessor. 

Distances. — Longford, 8J in. ; Gra- 
nard, 13 ; Ardagh, 5. 

22 m., on 1. about 3 m. is Ardagh' 
Hill (G50 ft.), from the summit of 
which there is a very fine view. 

25J m. Longford {Hotel: Long- 
ford), a tolerably flourishing inland 
little town, and the most import- 
ant that the traveller will meet with 
in this route. It is the terminus- 
of the Royal Canal, which is here 
supplied by the Camlin river. Being 
a corporate and county town, it con- 
tains the usual municipal buildings 
— such as gaol, court-house, bar- 
racks, and the like — together with a 
goodly number of stores and ap- 
pliances for trade, which has been 
much encouraged by the Longford 
family. There are no remains of its 
castle or abbey, both of which were 
at one time important, a very large 
Dominican house, subsequently de- 
stroyed by fire,, having been founded 
here in 1400 by O'Ferrol, Prince of 
Annaly. This family was all im- 
portant here till the middle of the 
17th cent., when the castle was, 
taken, and all the garrison put to 
the sword. The tourist should visit 
the R. C. cathedral, which has a very 
lofty tower, and occupied 20 years 
in building. 

Conveyances. — Car to Athlone 
daily, through Ballymahon; rail to 
Sligo and Mullingar. 

Distances. — Edgeworthstown,. 8^ 
m. ; Lanesborongh,. 10 ; Carrick-on- 
Shannon, 22 ; Newtown Forbes, 3 ; 
Drumocl, 11 ; Strokcstown, 14 ; Ath- 
lone, 27 ; Mullingar, 25J ; Dublin,. 
7G. 

The country, which hitherto has- 
been little but a succession of bog,, 
begins to improve soon after leaving 
Longford, and at 30 m. the village 
of Newtown Forbes,, on 1. of rly., is. 
wooded and pretty. Extending to 
the banks of the Shannon, which the 
tourist now reaches,. is Castle Eorbes,, 



Ireland. 



Route IS. — Castle Forbes — Carrick. 



155 



autiful seat of the Earl of 

I rd Lieutenant of the 

unty Leitrim, to whose ancestor, 

Arthur Forbes, the estate v. 

inted by James I. In 1641 the 

sustained a sev< re siege at the 

- of the insurgents, in which 

:tremity it w \& gallantly defended 

1 ;. 8ii Arthur's widow. The grounds 

me distance along one 

spansioi the Shannon, 

i ns I <ough Forbes, one of th- 

eeuliarjo it in the earlier 

in. it. a road is given off to the 

I irumlish, 1 m. Crossing 
Rinn, the rly. Leaves on 1. 

at which point the traveller 

unty -rd for that 

I it rim. Both counties are sepa- 

froni l.' immon by the Bhan- 

I by a bv ivel erect '1 

1 . •. ers for the im- 

I that river. Aug] 

I ' the residence of 

If. N. 1 wder, Esq. [ \ road on 
L, g the bridge, runs to 

1 : pacing the S. 

en I _ . 1 1 >lm, and subse- 

qu Lough Kilglass, both 

connected with 

, which twists about 

< Ltraordinary 

] aky the road 

I J. bank of the 

into 

I 1 • : . 1-1 Lough BocL 

in their i ind 

• ry 

r the I flate of 

L 

. l m :• I '.'. is at one p riod 

. -. esi 
on found 
. 

• .ry 
1 1 ry- 

l I ; i ' 



the Boldiers of Jam( 3 II. and William 
respective 1\ . 
[From brumod it is 5 m. t 

Moltill, a small town situated near 
the head of Lough Rinn. A fine 
abbey of canons regular once ex- 
isted here, hut no traces are left ex- 
cept a small circular tower. In the 
neighbourhood arc Bynn Castle, a 
stat of the Earlof Leitrim, Lakefield 
D. Crofton, Esq.), Clooncahir (Sir 
Morgan Crofton, Bart.), and Dru- 
mod nouso r\V. P. Joms, Esq.).] 

13 m. 1. is the Little ch. of Anna- 
duff, and 

1 1 in. Drum8na t a village situated 
in the neighbourhood of lovely 
scenery. M In one direction are seen 
the windings of the Shannon through 
a fertile district, the projection of a 
wooded peninsula on its course, the 
heights of Sheebeg and Bheemore, 
with the more lofty mountains of 
Slievi-an-ieran in the distance ; and 
in the other the luxuriant and varied 
swell of Teeraroon, the adjacent part 
of the county of Roscommon." The 
Shannon here makes a complete 
turn upon itself, running between the 
demesnes of Mount Campbell (W. A. 
Lawder, Esq/, and Charlestown, the 
seat of Sir Gilbert King, Bart. The 
road to Carrick, however, does not 
follow this soi pontine course, but 
crosses the river twice within a mile, 
arriving at 

15 m. JameBtoitnit a small market- 

vn. incorporat I by James L, which 
was the Bcene of a few skirmishes 
in L689 between the Enniskillenen 
and the Irish under Barsfield. The 
road j - under a castellated gate- 

r which is Jamestown L 
the residence of Hugh O'Beirri 
\ . j . 

17} in. Carrick-on-Shannon 'I 
8 . 1 1 j Arms), a small town, de- 

riving it- sole importance from being 
the county town of Leitrim, win 
all the busim bs is held. It 

at 2 n to the 1 

parli dm Mt, but tl 

1 at th( til ;.. 1 '..; 



15G 



Route 18. — MuUingar to SUgo. 



Ireland 



when 15,0007. was awarded as com- 
pensation. The town has been 
much benefited by its situation on 
the Shannon, which by means of the 
Improvement Commission has been 
rendered navigable as far as Lough 
Allen. 

Distance*. — Leitrim, 3 J m. ; Boyle, 
9J ; Drumshambo, 7} ; Longford, 22. 

The principal proprietor in this 
neighbourhood is C. St. George, 
Esq., who resides at Hatley Manor, 
in the town. 

Quitting Carrick, the traveller 
again crosses the Shannon for the 
last time, though in so doing he by 
no means loses sight of the chain of 
lakes, as the Boyle river, which 
now accompanies the road, is even 
more peculiar in its lough system 
than the Shannon. The Boyle water 
is in fact a succession of lakes, 
connected together by a short river. 

[At 52 m. a road on rt. is given 
off to Leitrim and Drumshambo, 
crossing the Boyle at the E. end of 
Oakport Lough, and passing on 1. 
the grounds of Oakport House ( — 
Molloy, Esq.), while a little further 
on, near the cli. and glebe of Ardcarn, 
another road crosses at the end of 
Lough Key, and traverses the country 
at the N.E. of Lough Arrow, to Col- 
looney and Sligo.] 

At Ardcarn the tourist approaches 
the beautiful grounds of Rockingham, 
the seat of Viscount Lorton, which- 
for charming situation, united to all 
the improvements secured by modern 
landscape gardening, is equal to any 
place in Ireland. In front of the 
ruins of the mansion, which was 
unfortunately burnt down in April 
1863,* spreads out Lough Key, the 
prettiest and most varied of all these 
northern lakelets, studded with is- 
lands and fringed with woods. On one 
are the ruins of a ch., and on another 
of a castle, formerly the stronghold 
of a chieftain named M'Dermott. 

56 m. Boyle (anc. Buill) (Hotel : 

* The restoration is being actively pro- 
ceeded with. 



Monson's) is in itself a dirty place, 
though redeemed by its very pretty 
situation on the river-side, and the . 
unique ecclesiastic ruins hard by. 
The best part of the town is on 
the W. bank of the river, which is 
crossed by no less than 3 bridges, 
the principal one being balustraded, 
and of 3 arches of remarkably good 
span. The old residence of the Kings- 
town family is now used as a barrack. 
The ivy-clad abbey ruins, to which 
the attention of the archaeologist 
will be at once directed, are situated 
on the N. of the town, by the side of 
the river, which here flows swiftly 
and deeply through a charmingly 
wooded glen, and is crossed by a 
good single-arched bridge. They 
are in the private grounds of the 
Misses Robertson, by whom ad- 
mission is granted instantly. A Cis- 
tercian house was founded here by 
Maurice O'Dubhay in 1161, which in 
the same century had the honour of 
receiving the corpse of M'Dermot, 
King of Moylurg; but, like most 
abbeys, it suffered much harsh treat- 
ment, first in 1235 at the hands of 
the English forces under the Lords 
Justices Fitzgerald and M'William, 
and again from the soldiers of 
Cromwell, who, according to their 
usual practice, stabled their horses 
in it, and carved their names on 
the doors. From the road the 
visitor has a good view of the beau- 
tiful W. front, exhibiting the E. 
window at the end of the vista. 
It contains a single Early Pointed 
window with good moulding and 
dripstone, and is flanked by square 
buttresses. . Like most of the abbeys 
of that period, Boyle was cruci- 
form, with a central tower. The 
nave, which is 131 ft. long, is 
divided on the N. side by 3 Early 
Pointed arches. Notice the exquisite 
mouldings that form the corbels of 
the vaulting arches, and on the 
S. the 8 arches of pure Norm, 
character, with the curious dis- 
tinction between the 4 westerly 



Route IS. — Curlew Hills — Kesh Hills. 



157 



3, which ore piers, while the 

_■ onea ore columns. The 

ilpture "u the capitals of the 

- is singular, and should 

well - 1. The arches on the 

other side have been apparently 

. At the intersection of the 

xquisite segmental orch< s, 

Ji the chancel arch itself is 

E . Pointed. T N. transept, 

an aisle, is lighted by a 

\ m. win low deeply splayed 

lly, I mtains, as also di 

pt, 2 Early Pointed 

ing into a r< I chapel, 

a e y. Underneath 

1. which is neatly 

pt — 

— A :'. 



. swete 1 '— 

_ r <\ which 
3 with the barrack in 
- wi iv very 
;>! are in tolerable pre- 
ards the 
and hospitium. Tn the 
nana a of the 
yet visible 
T .■• abbey con- 
ial-place of the noble 
to whom it still 
[uary will not 
1 pt Robert- 
son foi so dilig and 

- from i 

in the i 

■ 

Lough Key, I a 

'. - ■' the 

' Gara, the 

15 ft. long 

rmerly sup- 

111, t: 

i the 
Coot Ml 

J. 1 ,31 ■ i : . i . 

Cai to Cost 



/ 1 •stand 8, — Longford, 31 m. ; Sligo, 
23j : Tuam, 26; Frenchpark, 9; 
Castlerea, \ t ; Ballinafad, I ; Carrick, 
9J : Leitrim, 11. 

Very soon after leaving 1» »yle the 
road mounts in steep zigzags i 
Curlew Hills, which, though only 
863 ft. ill height, assume a certain im- 
portance from their sudden eleva- 
tion. The views over Boyle, Lough 
lv<y. and. more to the rt„ Lough Gara, 
are very beautiful, while from the 
summit an equally extensive view 
opens out over Ballinafad. and Lough 
Arrow. Descending on the opposite 
Bid 

60 m. Ballinafad is prettily situ- 
ated on the slmrcs of Lough Arrow, 
a considerable lake about 5 m. in 
length, which, as far as a good many 
flourishing plantations go, is cheer- 
ful and smiling, though the bleak 
character of the country round de- 
tracts considerably from its beauty. 
The castle of Ballinafad is on tho 
1. of the road, and consists of 3 
circular towers with connecting 
walls. On the W. side of Lough 
Arrow the road passes the well- 
wooded demesne of Hollybrook (J. 
Ffolliot, Es {.), while on the opposite 
Bhore are Kingsborough House, with 
2 or 3 small ruins, ecclesiastical and 
military, the latter of which aredotte I 
over i untry in marvellous pro- 

ton. This district also abounds 
with raths, erroneously believed to 
Danish. 

L * ly on 1. is e picturesque 

chain known as the Kesh Hills, con- 

f 2 principal heights, K< sh 

in L183 ft. . and Carrowkesh 

1 062 . From them thi re is a very 

fine view of the Ox Mountains, with 

the Sligo and Manor Hamilton Hills 

\". On the W. (ace of Kesh 

I rin, which Lb composed of tabular 

limi stone, are the entrances to some 

i'l not (o have 

otirely explon <1. Ih d dwelt 
harp r ( lorran, to whom tl 
1 D this distri 

ird for musica] skilL 



158 



Route 18. — Mullingar toSligo. 



Ireland.. 



[o'TJ m., on 1. 1 m. is Newpark 

House (Jcmmott Duke, Esq.), and 
3 m. beyond is Balhjmote (ane. 
Baile-an-mhota), now little more 
than a village, but formerly of 
importance, owing to its fortress, 
which was built in 1800 by Richard 
de Burgo, Earl of Ulster, of such 
strength that it offered a serious 
impediment to the subjugation of 
Connaught. This castle, which is 
strengthened by towers at the angles, 
occupies an area of 150 square ft. 
There are also remains of a Fran- 
ciscan monastery, with the muti- 
lated figure of a pope over the en- 
trance. The friars of this establish- 
ment were celebrated for their learn- 
ing, and wrote the * Book of Bally- 
mote,' extant to this day. "It was 
written by different persons, but 
chiefly by Solomon O'Droma and 
Manns O'-Duigenan, and begins with 
an imperfect copy of the 'Leabhar 
Gabhala,' or Book of Invasions of 
Erin, followed by a series of ancient 
chronological, historical, and genea- 
logical pieces, with pedigrees of Irish 
saints, &c." — Prof. O'Currey. The ch. 
of Ballymote has a very graceful 
tower and spire. A little beyond the 
town is Temple Lodge (Col. Per- 
ceval), on the banks of the lake of 
the same name ; and in the grounds 
are the ruins of a house formerly 
belonging to the Knights Templars.] 
Soon after passing the village of 
Drumfin, near which is Coopers 
Hill, the seat of C. W. O'Hara, 
Esq., M.P., the scenery begins to 
improve, and becomes very pretty 
at 71 m., near Cloonmahon (Mrs. 
Meredith), and Markree Castle, the 
splendid seat of the late E. J. Cooper, 
Esq., who contributed much to 
the advancement of astronomical 
science, and possessed some cele- 
brated instruments for that purpose. 
The w T oods of this magnificent pro- 
perty extend for a long distance, and 
abound in charming glades, which 
are watered by the Unshin river and 
a number of small tributary brooks. 



A little further on is the hamlet 
of Toberscanavan, close to a small 
lough; and at 73 m. the traveller 
arrives at 

Collooney, as comfortable, well- 
built, and pretty a village as he 
will meet with in all Ireland. Two 
considerable rivers, the Owenmore 
and Owenbeg, unite their waters a 
little below Annaghmore, the seat of 
C. L'Estrange, Esq., and about 2 J rm 
above Collooney, where a very large 
volume of water flowing over a 
ledge of rocks forms a picturesque 
cascade, and is available for some 
extensive corn-mills, which give a 
great air of business to the village. 
There is also a rather pretty ch. on 
some rising ground to the 1. 

[A road skirts the woods of Mark- 
ree Castle, passing by Castle Dan- 
gan (T. Ormsby, Esq.j and the village 
of Ballintogher, to 10 m. Dromahaire 
(Kte. 8)-i 

Distances. — Ballysadare, 1J m. ; 
Dromahaire, 10. 

The road now follows the river to 
74^ m. Ballysadare (Kte. 22). Between 
these two villages a sharp skirmish 
took place between a body of French 
who landed at Killala in 1798, and a 
detachment of Limerick militia and 
some dragoons Tinder Col. Vereker, 
who had unsuccessfully attacked the 
invaders. He was ultimately obliged 
to retreat with the loss of his artillery 
to Sligo. 

Ballysadare, like Collooney, is a 
prosperous well-to-do place, depen- 
dent to a great extent on very va- 
luable salmon-fisheries, which were 
the property of, and indeed owe their 
being to, the late Mr. Cooper of 
Markree, who placed a number of 
ladders by which the fish might as- 
cend the falls. The river here falls 
into Ballysadare Bay over a con- 
siderable distance of shelving rock, 
forming the prettiest series of rapids 
possible. 

On the opposite side of the river 
is a small ivy-grown abbey, founded 
by St. Fechin in the 7th cent., and 



Ireland. 



Route 10. — Boscon 



150 



which in its day was richly en- 
dowed. A good deal of business is 

10 in the exportation of corn and 

or : ships of 100 tons being enabled 
.io into the little harbour. From 
hene< it is a pleasant drive to Sligo : 
K knaroa. with its truncated sum- 
mit <»n the 1., and the Slish Mountains 
on th< n.. forming constant changes 

Landscape. 

ia. Sligo Rtc, 8). [Hotel* i Im- 

ial, Victor:.. 



ROUTE 19. 

ATHLONE TO ROSCOMMON, 
CASTLEREAGH, BALLINA, AND 
BELMULLET. 

N ad W< >t< rn 

Atblone to 

i 72 m.; paas- 

: a very uni ind 

•uii t rv, although 

ieved by 

ws on the it. 

12 DL K Jury 

: i" a is 

to 

uraion to St. John's or 

, aln.nt , to the 

8.E., * yon the 

I i-duin.** th<- 

I ' as 

in 1156, m be- 



lieved to have boon an early strong 
hold of the Danish King Turgesius 
in the i > 1 1 1 cent. It was long m the 
possession of the O'Connors, from 
whom it was taken by the English 
in the 13th cent. As described in 
Wold's 'Survey of Roscommon,' this 
oastle was built in the form of a 1\ 
the tail of the letter being occupied 
by a banque ting-hall, and the head 
by the keep, a massive tower, about 
50 ft. in breadth, overgrown with ivy 
of extraordinary richness of growth* 
To the E. of the oastle are the re- 
main.^ of a watch-tower, the whole 
being protected by a broad ditch, 
which formerly converted the pe- 
ninsula into a promontory, and a 
wall 564 yds. long, with an arched 
gateway in the centre, and defensive 
towers at intervals. Near the oastle 
are remains of a small early eh., of 
abent the 13th cent. The ploasantest 
mode of visiting Rindown will be by 
water from Athlone, particularly as 
under the castle walls there is a 
snug little anchorage, known as Safe 
Harbour. 

14 J m. Ballymurry. 

18 m. Bo8Gommqn (anc. Rus-cho- 
main) {Hotels: Victoria; Royal) is 
a neat- looking country town (Top. 
2731), with little beauty of situation 
t i recommend it, but containing two 
remains of its former greatnesi — the 
Abbey and the Castle. The former, 
in the lower part of the town, con- 
sists of a ch. 137 (\. long, " with 
a northern transept, in which is an 
aisle separated by i pointed arches, 
resting on massive round pillar.-; 
over the principal entrance is a b< au- 
tiral window, with an architrave de- 
corated \sith pinnacles ; the windows 
in the choir are lancet-shaped and 
much mutilated. Und( r an arch in 
the X. ride of the ehoir is a tomb 
with a mutilated effigy, said to be that 
of ( > '( Sonnor, and on the base an 1 
warlike ligun B n pr« - oting aiiei. 
1 1 Uowgl This I I I onor, said 

red h« founi 

thi [ nary and King of Connaught 



160 



Route 19. — Atlilone to JBelmullct. 



Ireland. 



in 13th cent. Seen from the railway 
the castle makes an imposing appear- 
ance on the side of the hill. The 
present building dates from 12G8, 
and was the work of John D'Ufford, 
Justiciary of Ireland. It occupies 
a large quadrangular area, defended 
"by a round tower at each angle, 
as well as by two similar ones pro- 
jecting from the E. to protect the 
gateway. One only of these towers 
is roofed, and forms a lofty room, 
vaulted overhead, and said to have 
been a council-chamber. In the 
inner court is a rectangular building 
containing the state apartments. 
Roscommon Castle is, as far as extent 
goes, one of the finest in the king- 
dom, and, according to tradition, was 
in good preservation up to a later 
date than most fortresses. It is said 
to have been inhabited up to the 
battle of Aughrim, in the reign of 
William III., when the fugitive Irish 
escaping from that engagement set 
fire to it. 

1^ m. to the N. E. of Roscommon 
are remains (though small) of the 
Abbey of Deerane, probably de- 
pendent on that of Roscommon ; 
with the exception of a good window, 
they present nothing worthy of visit. 

Conveyances. — Hail to Athlone and 
Castlebar. 

Distances. — Castlereagh, 17 m. ; 
Athlone, 18; Ballinasloc, 25. 

24 m. at Dunamon the Suck 
river is crossed by a long causeway 
bridge, and again, a little below, at 
Castle Coote. On the opposite side 
of the water is Dunamon Castle 
(St. George Caulfield, Esq.). The 
line now follows the valley of the 
Suck, if such a sluggish stream can 
be said to have a valley, and, passing 
31 m. 1. the village of Ballymoe, 
arrives at 

35 in. Castlereagh, an uninterest- 
ing town of about 1 500 Inhab., rather 
prettily situated on the Suck, which 
is here adorned with some good 
timber belonging to the demesne 
of the late Lord Mount Sandford, and 



now the property of T. J. Sandford, 
Esq. The antiquary may visit the 
circular cemetery of Omachan or 
Rathcroghan, "which is of a circular 
form, measuring 116 paces in dia- 
meter, and surrounded with a stone 
ditch greatly defaced. Within are 
small circular mounds, covering rude 
sepulchral chambers formed of stone, 
without cement of any kind, and 
containing unburnt bones. The 
monument of Dathi, with its pillar 
of red sandstone, is outside the en- 
closure, at a short distance to the 
E." — Petrie. To show the celebrity 
of this cemetery, the Connaught poet 
writes thus : — 

" There is not at this place >v 

A hill at Venach na Cruachna, 
Which is not the grave of a king or royal 

prince, 
Or of a woman or warlike poet." 

Conveyances. — Rail to Athlone, 
Castlebar, and Westport. Cars daily 
to Ballina and Sligo. 

Distances. — Boyle, 18m.; French- 
park, 8 i ; Claremorris, 22. 

The remainder of this route is per- 
formed by a car, which traverses a 
dreary country, as far as Lough Cullin, 
when it begins to improve* 

52 m. Kilkelly. 

59 m. Swineford, a poor little 
place, in the neighbourhood of which 
is Brabazon Park, the seat of Major 
Brabazon. At 61 m. Cloongullaun 
bridge the traveller crosses the Moy 
(anc. Muaidh), one of the most 
important rivers in the N.W. of 
Ireland. It rises ,in the Ox moun- 
tains, in county Sligo, and, flow- 
ing southwards from thence, re- 
ceives the waters of the Owenaher 
and the Owengarve, and for a consi- 
derable distance divides the counties 
of Mayo and Sligo. Near Swine- 
ford it flows due W. for a few miles, 
and then to the N., keeping a pa- 
rallel course with Loughs Cullin and 
Conn. Soon the road diverges — 
that to the rt. direct to Ballina — [the 
other runs to Foxford, and then falls 
into the Westport road. 



' XP. 



Route 19. — Ballina. 



101 



is a small town of some 

l [nhab., in the neighbourhood 

ry far superior to any thai 

Her has yet met with. The 

hill- begin to close in, and on the 

N.W. attain the heighl of 1095 ft. 

in the rai f the Sieve Gamph 

ontains. Foxford is a place of 

tntiqnity, and was formerly the 

tli«' districl of Tyrawley, lying 

\v. r i Moy runa through 

• wn, and is fordable at a point 

• ■omweH's Rock, where the 

an 1 his anny are all( 

1.] The remainder of 

nte follows the valley of the 

"ii rt. a few small 

r> L-an-atha' 

// * '» : !"•. ■ ■ s, tolerable : Royal 

isy, dirty place, 
rom the mouth 
M >y. The <>nly histori 

with it arc the 

the town by 

•h who in landed at 

I Humbert. On 

Rev. S. Fortescue, 

1 the t >wn and a volun- 

dmt by a party in ambus- 

T M eloped 

and g parates 

" T ; the district on 

lied Ard- 

imunications main- 

>f handsome 

* I . . 

i '. wort) 
ith the 
abbey, founded 
i well-d< 

Ballina ifi 
x - and hills 

W 1 » • very 

not 
'I ftsl 

At 
I built by 

; . '• ! 
. A 1 1 
taken at the 



and plentiful, being mostly grilse, 

with an occasional salmon. A few 

good salmon are sometimes got in 
the spring/' — Angler's Register. 

Conveyances. — Oar daily to Sligo; 
car to Westport ; car to Belmullet, 
through Crossmolina and Bangor; 
to Castlereagh ; coach to Athenry. 

Distances. — Foxford, 13 m. ; Sligo, 
36; Dromore, 15; Westnort, '2:); 
Oastlebar, 22; Pontoon, 11; Cross- 
molina, ~] ; Belmullet, 41); Killala, 
8 : Roserk, 5. 

Excursions. — 

1. Killala, Roserk, and Moyne. 

2. Pontoon. 
:'». Nephin. 

The route followed by the public 
car to Belmullet traverses the divary 
districts of Tyrawley and Erris. The 
besl way for the tourist is to skirt tho 
coast, by which means he may pay 
a visit to Roserk and MoyneAbbeys. 
From Ballina the road keeps the 1. 
side of the Moy, passing through 
the demesne of Belleek Castle E. 
Howley, Esq.) and Belleek Abbey 
(Col. Knox Gore). 

5 m. in a dell overlooking the 
Moy are the ruins of Roserk or 
Rosserick Abbey (Ross-Searka, the 
promontory of Searka), founded for 
Franciscan friars by the sept of 
•Toy It is somewhat similar to 

Clare Galway — a cruciform eh., with 
;i lofty tower rising from the in- 
tersection of nave and transepts, 
irnilar Dec.) character is 
the Abbey <»f Moyne, >) m. to the 
V., which has a Length of 135 
f> • t, bod od 1 >ec. windows, and 
ader tower. "It lies in a - - 
quest* n d pastoral district, on t 
banks of th . watered by a small 

rill, which, dipping into tic granular 
Limestone, i igain under the ch. 

and supplies the convent. From t 
top of tie' tow< r, tic \\ to which 

is both i asy and 

' i iix d of the building, tin- sur- 
rounding country, the bay,div< rsift d 
th-- island of Bartragh, and th- 
Dying ledg g of long low 



162 



Route 19. — Atlilone to Bel mullet. 



Ireland. 



white-crested sandhills." — Frascr. 
At the S. end of the island is Bart- 
ragh House (J. Kirkwood, Esq.). 

9 m. Killala, an interesting little 
place, both as heing the seat of a 
former bishopric, now consolidated 
with that of Tuam, and as the scene 
of the landing of the French under 
Gen. Humbert, in 1798. With two 
frigates, having on board 1100 men, 
this expedition sailed from Rochelle, 
with the intention of making a de- 
scent upon Donegal ; but, in conse- 
quence of adverse winds, the General 
was forced to land in Kilcummin 
Bay, a little to the N. of Killala, 
and proceeded to Ballina, where the 
unfortunate death of Mr. Forester 
took place. 

The see of Killala is very ancient, 
having been founded by St. Patrick 
in the 5th cent. The cathedral is a 
plain building of the 17th cent., with 
later alterations, occupying the site 
of a much earlier ch., erected by 
Gobhan, an eminent architect of the 
6th cent. The round tower, which 
is placed on an insulated eminence, 
is of the same date, but was struck 
by lightning in 1800, and consider- 
ably damaged thereby. Of contem- 
poraneous date, and built by the same 
individual, are the towers of Kilmac- 
duagh and Antrim. Killala was at 
one time a brisk little seaport ; but 
Ballina, with its superior advan- 
tages, has taken almost all the trade 
from it. The Owenmore is crossed 
by a fine bridge of 11 arches at Pal- 
merstown, the property and former^ 
scat of the family of Palmer. The 
mansion was destroyed in the troubles 
of '98. On the rt. bank of the river 
is Castlereagh, the scat of E. Knox, 
Esq. 

[1J m. rt. arc the ruined ch. of 
Rathfran and some earthen forts at 
Summerhill. 

3 m. Kilcummin, containing the 
cell and burial-place of Cumin, or 
Cumean Fin, a saint who flourished 
in the 7th cent.] 

IS m. Bally castle, commands a 



splendid view of Downpatrick Head,, 
which rises to the height of 12G ft. 
about 3 m. to the N. The singular rock 
of Doonbristy, standing detach ed 
from the land, testifies to the violence 
of the Atlantic waves along this 
coast. The geological composition 
of this coast is that of yellow sand- 
stone, both at the Head and the 
opposite promontory of Benmore,. 
between which is a narrow slip of 
lower limestone, affording at Pollna- 
muck many typical shells and carb. 
fishes. From Ballycastle to Bel- 
mullet the road lies through a 
country of wild desolate mountains,, 
seldom rising above 1200 ft., but as 
dreary and untameable as anything 
in Ireland. It forms the district of 
Erris, lying to the N. of the barony of 
Tyrawley, and is very seldom visited. 
The coast scenery, however, will well 
repay any pedestrian tourist, with 
whom time is no object. From 
Ballycastle the traveller may return 
to Ballina through the valley of" 
Ballinglen, about 16 in. A little 
way from the village the road crosses 
the Ballinglen, which falls into the 
Bay of Bunnatrahir, and then keeps 
close to the N. coast, at the base of 
Maumakeogh 1215 ft., and Glencolry 
1155 ft., to Bealderrig Bay, from 
whence it runs inland to the S.W.,. 
leaving the finest part of the coast 
without any road at all, save foot- 
paths to the coast-guard stations at 
Porturlin and Portacloy. 

From Bealderrig Bay, where we 
enter upon a district of primary rocks, 
to Benwee Head, the coast offers a 
constant succession of grand scenes. 
'• Moista Sound is 4 m. W. from 
Bealderrig. It is a chasm about a 
cable's length from one extremity to 
the other, so narrow that a boat's 
oars must be reefed in passing through- 
it. It is formed by a gigantic trap- 
dyke ; the trap rock has fallen out,, 
leaving this chasm, the sides of which 
are absolutely vertical, the northern 
350 ft. high, the other 450 ft., and 
on the southern side the cliff rises 



I.AXI'. 



Runic 19.— Belmullet. 



103 



;. more, almost vertically, mak- 

y BOO ft.; but when in the Bound 

upper portion is variable. The 

A l is about 8 m. from Bealderrig, 

.. or the coast-guard station of 

Porturlin. It is 30 ft. in height, 

wed through in perfect 

at half-tide and in moderate 

i i ither. It is also a trap-dyke ; 

here, however, the trap remains, 

opting at the bottom, where, by 

having fallen out, the arch is 

d : the k( ystone, as it may be 

term< g about r>« ,( » ft. high, 

the top of the cliff. 

1 the l<>fty and nearly 

U promontory i 1 1 mvinallagh, 

w. from Bealderrig, Is one suc- 

* - ; cliffs, head- 

N r the northern 

if the promontory, to the 

itiful little harbour of 

cavern about 30 ft. 

* 

the i ntrance, and wide 

a 1 oai to row in. It 

^ ocious circular 

a lofty domical roo£" — 

/' 

SI ga of Broadhaven, so con- 
in all the i st vi ws of 
l lie 1 1 megal side, 

ks, about 300 ft. 

v. of !>• nw< 

B29 ft., 

artb the ascent for the 

fw rl) view Achill, 

l) y to the 

and tie 1 1 • gal 

. : but strian 

Lb do 

i of anv port 



i i 



iillet, which is at I- 



6 

Iderrig I 

r< - 
ther 

: At 35 

-• s tl ' r as 

: | 

1 



Passing through Derrycorrib, a 
village at the foot of Glencastle Hill, 
and on the Glencastle river, the 
tourist reaches 

19 m. BelmuUet. 35 years ago a 
miserable collection of huts, and now 
a thriving little seaport. It is sin- 
gularly placed on a strip of land 
400 yards broad, intervening between 
Broadhaven on the N. and Blacksod 
Bay on the S. : a canal has been ent 
through it, so that vessels, which 
were formerly wind-bound for weeks 
in the neighbourhood of the Mullet 
promontory, can at once go through. 
There isa good markel here : it being 
the emporium for the greater part 
of Errifl and Ballycroy. Belmullet 
is the key of the peninsula of Mullet, 
which extends N. as far as Erris 
Head, and runs B., gradually taper- 
ing away to Blacksod Point, exactly 
opposite Slieve More, in Achill 
Island. Tims, while one side of the 
Mullet is exposed to the fiercest 
storms of the Atlantic, the other 
looks npon two landlocked havens, 
Broadhaven and Blacksod, each of 
which would contain in security all 
the navies of the world. From tla a 
advantages it was at one time pro- 
posed t<» make Belmullet a western 
terminus for a trunk railway. 

There is not mueh of interest in 
the long peninsula of Mullet, in- 
habited Localities being few and far 
between. Binghamstown isa colli c- 
tion of wretched hovels in the neigh- 
I of Castle Bingham, a squa 

stellated mansion belonging to the 
family of that name, and landlords of 

th.- greater pari of this district. Aa 
may be imagined, trees ore a rarity, 
« verything being open to the ii< si 
M;. the w. The trav< Ll< r wl 

LI Qtfl 

with the hoi Id., i p< i at Ballina may 

turn by th.' mail car through 

"i- h<- may by chance catch 

sailing vessel or " I st- 

B Imuliet through 

nil Bound to Westport or Gal- 

y. 



164 



Route 20. — Galway to Clifden. 



Ireland 



ROUTE 20. 

FROM GALWAY TO CLIFDEN, THROUGH 
OUGHTERARDE AND BALLYNA- 
HINCH- 

Galway {Hotels : Railway Hotel, at 
the terminus of the Midland Great 
Western Ely., attendance bad, and 
charges high ; Black's), besides 
being the rendezvous for all tourists 
bound to Connemara, contains with- 
in its precincts so much to interest 
that the traveller should make a 
point of staying here for 2 or 3 
days. Very comfortable lodgings 
can be obtained at Mis3 Grogan's 
in Eyre Square. Independently 
of its being the principal town 
in the county, and indeed a 
county in. itself, as well as the 
capital of Connaught, it enjoys con- 
siderable natural advantages, and has 
capabilities of becoming an important 
place, should improvement continue 
at the same rate at which it has been 
progressing for the last 10 years. 

Under various names a town has 
been established here from the 
earliest times, and Ptolemy mentions 
a city called Nagnata, which is 
generally considered to be identical 
with Galway. This latter is derived, 
according to some, from a legend to 
the effect that a woman named Galva 
was drowned in the river hard by ; 
by others, from the Galla3ci of 
Spain, with whom the town carried 
on an extensive trade ; and by others 



again, from the Gaels or merchants 
by whom it was occupied. 

Its early history is that of repeated, 
ravages by the Danes or by their 
Munster neighbours, who looked on 
the colony with jealous eyes ; but 
after the invasion of Connaught by 
Henry II. walls began to be erected 
for the protection of the town, which 
caused a large influx of inhabitants, 
among whom were " a number of fa- 
milies, whose descendants are known 
to this day under the general appella- 
tion of ' the Tribes of Galway,' an 
expression first invented by Crom- 
well's forces, as a term of reproach 
against the natives of the town for 
their singular friendship and attach- 
ment to each other during the time 
of their unparalleled troubles and 
persecutions, but which the latter 
afterwards adopted as an honourable 
mark of distinction between them- 
selves and their cruel oppressors." — 
Hardimaris Hist. There were 14 
of these so-called tribes, the de- 
scendants of some of which, as Blake, 
Lynch, Joyce, D'Arcy, French, Mar- 
tin, &c., are still found amongst 
the leading citizens who in those 
days carefully guarded themselves 
from any intercourse with the native 
Irish. In one of the bye-laws, "of the 
date of 1518, it is enacted "that 
no man of this towne shall oste or 
receive into their housses at Christe- 
mas, Easter, nor no feaste elles, any 
of the Burkes, M'Williams, the Kel- 
lies, nor no cepte elles, without 
license of the mayor and council!, 
on payn to forfeit 5Z., that neither O' 
nor Mac shall e strutte ne swaggere 
thro' the streetes of Gallway. : ' 

The following singular inscription 
was formerly to be seen over the 
W. gate — 

" From the ferocious O'Flaherties 
Good Lord deliver us." 

Owing to its excellent situation, Gal- 
way enjoyed for centuries the mo- 
nopoly of the trade with Spain, from 
whence it received large quantities 






LAX P. 



Route 20. — Ocdway. 



161 



i . 



f v. . . ..and caus< d bo much 

;ial intercourse thai the town 
led to a certain degree 
Spanish features, both in the 
ture of the streets as well as 
thi bs and manners of the popu- 
though it was nev* rthel 
habit of former writers to as- 
too much to the supposed 
ish origin of the town, overlook- 
fad thai it was inhabited by 
■ ?a anally Anglo-Norman colony. 
1st charter was granted by 
Edward III., and confirmed in suc- 
< ■ ilway n ached its 
■ Iiit of opulence al the 
[rish Rebellion 
11. during which period it v 
rkablc for its loyalty to the 
K .did such 

i ttmclit at the hands of 

ry army, that at the 
: >wn was almost 
wholl; d. 

the battle of Aughrim, 

G kell, with 14,000 of 

W Hi nay. laid it; and, 

g .»ut for Borne time, it 

I on the 20th July 1691, 

of a Bafe-conducl for 

Linn rick and a fi 
inhabitants, with pre- 
r property and pri- 

G by rising 

r the 

i >rtioii 

buill up _ur of 

led oi i ! by Lough 

I 
riv< r which forms the 
( 

■ i 
and in the district 
I i ( - 

tained by ] w< 

The II'. /: 

• - 

d 

li 

I . 

I 



in ISIS. From a map [of which 
2 copies are extant made iii IG51, 
by the Marquis of Olanricarde, t<> 
ascertain the extent and value < ;' I 
town, it appears that Galway w;i> 
then entirely surrounded by walls, 

defended by H towers and en- 
tered by as many gates. A poetical 

description in Latin appended to 
this map informs us that — 

■• Bis orbis septem defendunt moenia turres 
Intna, el ox duro est mannore quseqne 
domus." 

Since the middle of the last cent. 
the fortifications went fast to decay, 
and now nothing remains but a 
fragment near the quay, and a 
massive archway leading to Spanish 
Place. There is alsoa square bastion 
of great thickness in Francis-street, 
and a portion of wall with a round- 
headed Mocked arch; but it is only 
of the date of William I., and was in 
a perfect state not many years ag 
Within the last cent, the town has 
so much increased as to cover more 
than double the space formerly oc- 
cupied within the walls. The streets, 
however, though containing several 
handsome buildings, are narrow, in- 
convenient, and dirty ; nevertheh 
the .antiquary will find very much 
to interest him in the r< markable 

architectural features of the houses, 
which are foreign to a i un- 

known in any other town in the 
kingdom. Vet too much has been 
written and Baid al <>nt the present 
apj»( arance of Galway ; for time and 
modern improvements have to a 
<•< rtain extent obliterated many of 
the ancient remains, which, with 
tinns, are do1 bo patent 
to th- ral tourisl as might be 

imagined from the glowing descrip- 
tions. The old housi s r< quire looku 
for, and the more time and care that 
1 II- r 1< 3t the back 

to, Up ..ill he I re- 

ward* d. Many of the I are 

built Spanish ion, with a . mall 
in patio in the c< ntre, and an 
teway leadii -,;. 



1G6 



Route 20. — Galway. 



Ireland. 



street ; but it requires some effort of 
imagination to identify these ill-kept 
and overcrowded dwellings with the 

gay residences of the Spanish mer- 
chants. The most striking specimen 
of domestic architecture is Lynch' s 
Mansion, a large square building at 
the corner of Shop and Abbeygate- 
streets, having square-headed door- 
ways and windows, with richly de- 
corated mouldings and dripstones. 
There is also a portion of the cornice 
or projecting balustrade at the top 
of the house, the horizontal support- 
ing pillars being terminated with 
grotesque heads. On the street face 
are richly ornamented medallions, 
containing the arms of the Lynches, 
with their crest — a lynx. Notice 
also the carved figure of a monkey 
and child, which commemorates the 
saving of an infant belonging to the 
family, by a favourite monkey, on 
an occasion when the house was 
burnt. The same anecdote is told of 
John 1st Earl of Kildare, whose 
crest, taken from this occurrence, 
consists of a monkey. This monu- 
ment of a great and powerful family 
is now used as a chandler's shop. 
On the opposite side of the same 
street is another ancient house with 
windows of Saracenic character. 

In Lombard-street, close to the 
ch., are a window and wall, on which 
is a stone bearing the legend of 2 
cross bones and the inscription — 

** Remember death. All is vanity of vani- 
ties"— 152-1 — 

in memory of the following occur- 
rence. James Lynch Fitzstephen, 
the then Mayor of Galway, had 
been one of the most successful of 
the citizens in promoting commerce 
with Spain, which he had himself 
personally visited, having been re- 
ceived with every mark of hospi- 
tality. To make some return for all 
this kindness, he proposed and ob- 
tained permission from his Spanish 
host to take his only son back with 
him to Ireland, where the latter 



speedily became a favourite from his 
winning manners and beauty. The 
mayor had also an only son, un- 
fortunately addicted to evil com- 
pany, but who, he hoped, was likely 
to reform from the circumstance of 
his being attached to a Galway lady 
of good family. And so it might have 
proved, had he not jealously fancied 
that the lady looked too graciously 
upon the Spaniard. Boused to mad- 
ness, he watched the latter out of 
the house, stabbed him, and then, 
stung with remorse, gave himself up 
to justice, to his father's unutterable 
dismay. Notwithstanding the en- 
treaties of the townsfolk, with whom 
the youth was a favourite, the stern 
parent passed sentence of death, and 
actually hung him from the window 
with his own hand. It is generally 
believed, however, that the locality of 
this tragedy lay in another part of the 
city. The family of Lynch, one of 
the most celebrated in Galway annals, 
is said to have originally come from 
Linz in Austria, of which town one 
of them was governor during a siege. 
As a reward for his services, he re- 
ceived permission to take a lynx as a 
crest. The family came to Ireland 
in the 13th cent., and flourished till 
the middle of the 17th. In 1484 
Pierce Lynch was made first Mayor 
under the charter of Richard III., 
while his son Stephen was appointed 
first Warden by Innocent VIII. , and 
during the period of 169 years 84 
members of this family were mayors. 
In Lombard-street is a fine gate- 
way belonging to the old Franciscan 
convent ; and in Abbeygate-street is 
the mansion of the Joyces, with a 
finely sculptured doorway and the 
inscription — 

"Nisi Dominus domum sedificaverit." — 1619. 

On a house in the adjoining street 
are the arms of Galway. 

The ch. of St. Nicholas is a vene- 
rable cruciform building, " evidently 
the work of different periods, but re- 
markable for uniformity in the exe- 



In: 



B rf< 20.— Galway. 



10' 



>r order and plan in 

: sign." li consists of 

. with liancel, transepts, 

tral tower surmounted by a 

. rami<lal belfry of much 

n the rest of the ch. 

idth across the transepts is 

total length 152 ft, 

nave is separated from the 

2 rows of good pointed 

1, however, by a mo- 

iich nearly blocks 

up. E. and W, windows 

•*i are plain, of 5 lights were 

markable for the beautiful 

in, d* [ I iss. Th< 8, or Lynch's 

ins a small n • 98, in 

an altar of the Joyce family ; 

3 and coats of arms 

1644; a richly-de- 

r with finials ; also 

tli. \ raise 1 stone 

i nd front of which 

Underneath this lies 

M Lynch, the hero of the tra- 

mentioned above. Tlie N. or 

used as a vestry, 

slab to the family of 

M i iagh, 1580. In the 

a an ancient confessional. 

T! jts '»n an antique bi 

with Bculptm ides. Externally 

mid notice the beau- 

nt< 1 W. doorway, and the 

. which I - groined roof 

apartment, 
light of steps. Close to 
the ruined chapel of S 
M 1 up,hut exhibit- 

rmerly included 

wi1 of Enachdone 

\ p. 1^1 . united in 

\ ipric of 'I'n. iiu. 

_ry wl 

tli.it the 

. wa- •• in 11^1. 

I • Edward VI. 

in 
1 the 
• • 



which hold good until the recent 
deatli of the late Warden Daly. He 
had a jurisdiction distinct from tl 
of the diocese, but Galway is now a 
portion of the see of Tuam. 

The ancient collegiate establish- 
ment stood near the W. end of 
the ch., hut is now let out into 
various tenements. Gal way contains 
the usual buildings of a county 
town: 2 barracks, 1 known as the 
Shambles, near the W. bridge, and 
the other near William-street, where 
a irate formerly stood: a "tholsel" 
or exchange ; a handsome modern 
court-house with a Doric front: and 
a gaol remarkable for being built 
without any timber. The Roman 
( latholic parish cJtapd is a large plain 
building in Middle-street, besides 
which are a chapel and nunnery 
i Btablished by Father Daly. Galway 
La the seat of a lloman Catholic 
diocese. 

The best part of the town is F.yve 
Square, which contains some hand- 
some residences, a bank, club-house, 
and the rly. stat. and hotel, all built 
of compact grey limestone. On the 
other side of the river is Queen's 
College, a fine Gothic building, with 
a spacious quadrangle, the archi- 
tectural adornments of which are a 

hie imitation of All Souls' College, 
Oxford. There are* scellent museums 
adapted to the educational course 
and a good library, in which is a 
transcribed copy of the Galway re- 
cords. The town can boasl ofs< ve- 
ra! well-known scholars, as Lynch, 
the author of • Oambrensis Eversus;' 
Flaherty, who wrote the 'Ogygia;' 
Kirwan, one of the most learned 
chemists of his day, and more re- 
. Ilardiinan, the librarian of the 
college and author of the 'History 
of Galway. 1 The visitor who is in- 
in the education question 
should go and Bee the model school, 
ry well-m d institution " - i 

the national system. Top. 16,967.) 

The Harbour has h« en much inl- 
and has at- 



1G8 



Route 20. — Gal way to Clifden. 



Ireland. 



tracted a considerable share of public 
attention in consequence of the dis- 
cussion about the Galway subsidy, 
in connection with the Atlantic 
Steam Company's contract to carry 
the mails to America. As a Trans- 
atlantic packet station there is no 
doubt that it possesses one advantage 
over other ports, viz. its proximity to 
America, it being only 1636 m. to St. 
John's, Newfoundland, 21 G5 to Hali- 
fax, 2385 to Boston, and 2700 to New 
York. The distance from Galway 
to St. John Vis now frequently run 
in 5 days. The Bay of Galway con- 
sists of a long arm of the sea, pro- 
tected at the entrance by the lofty 
cliffs of the islands of Aran, which 
in clear weather are visible at a 
distance of 29 m., and on the N. and 
S. by the coasts of Galway and Clare 
respectively. A legend in the annals 
of Ireland states that it was once a 
freshwater lake known as LougtIi 
Lurgan, one of the 3 principal lakes 
in Ireland, and was converted into a 
bay by the Atlantic breaking over 
and uniting with the water therein. 
There is no doubt that a submer- 
gence of the land, whether gradual 
or otherwise, has really been the 
cause of the formation of the bay. 

"At Barna, probably 10 ft. below 
high-water mark, may be seen on 
the strand a turf bog of several feet 
in depth, in which are the stumps 
and roots of large trees and many 
branches of oak and birch inter- 
mixed. The same phenomena occur 
at the W. side of the island of Omey, 
which is far advanced into the At- 
lantic Ocean." — Diction's Survey. 

At the entrance of the harbour is 
Mutton Island, connected with the 
mainland by a ridge of sand at low 
water. There is a fixed light here 
33 ft. above the sea. The holding- 
ground is good, but there is a want 
of shelter from westerly gales, a state 
of things which will be entirely ob- 
viated by the erection of the pro- 



posed breakwater, which is estimated 
to cost 150,000Z. The spring tides 
rise in the bay from 12 to 15 ft. 
The American steamers, as long as 
they sailed, anchored outside Mutton 
Island. From Lough Comb, which is 
only 3 m. distant, a river runs into 
the sea with such rapidity that it is 
only useful as a means of motive 
power, which is made available for 
working several flour-mills, but for 
the purposes of navigation a canal 
called after the Earl of Eglintoun 
was cut by Nimmo, a celebrated 
engineer of his day, to connect the 
lake with the harbour, and thus 
enable the small vessels plying 
inland to reach the sea. 

There is ample accommodation for 
vessels in the floating dock, which 
is 5 acres in extent, and admits 
vessels of 14 ft. draught, and the 
tongue of land which separates the 
dock from the river is quayed to the 
distance of 1300 ft. 

A large number of the population 
is employed in the salmon and 
herring fishery, and the Claddanli, 
the locality inhabited by the fisher- 
men, should be visited by every 
tourist. It is an extraordinary assem- 
blage of low thatched cottages, the 
denizens of which, in dress, habits 
and customs, are as different from 
those of the town which they adjoin 
as though they were 100 m. off. 
" The colony from time immemorial 
has been ruled by one of their own 
body, periodically elected, who is 
dignified with the title of Mayor, 
regulates the community according 
to their own peculiar laws and cus- 
toms, and settles all their fishery 
disputes. His decisions are so de- 
cisive and so much respected, that 
the parties are seldom known to 
carry their differences before a legal 
tribunal or to trouble the civil ma- 
gistrates." — Hardimatis Hist. They 
never allow strangers to reside 
within their precincts, and always 
intermarry with each other, the 
marriage not being thought au regie 



1 XP. 



7? ' 20, — Galtcay — Suburbs, 



I 



unl< S8 I «1 by an elopement. 

They have - v< ral gala-days, such 

tl F< ; m of St. Patrick and the 

tivity of St. John (June 24), at 

which time a proc< ssiou is organised 

i\\o town, and a number of 

through, not forget- 

* tb' 1 indispensable bonfire. The 

dr 'ssof the women of the Oladdagh ia 

v ry j i uliar, and impai Bingu- 

larl; a aspect to the ( lalway 

- ind quays. Ii consists of a 

mantle, red body-gown andp t- 

;i handkerchief bound round 

and legs and feet an 

! traveller wh > is anxious 

in furl irticulars respecting 

communitv should 

It H irdiman*s ' History of Gal- 

of the finest loca- 

- in Ireland for the salmon 

o will feel grateful for the 

- of Mr. Ash- 

mprove the fishery by breed- 

nd by establishing 

n the Cong river betwi 

I- ug 9 i rib and Mask. 

— T I lifdi n, through 

.1- n and < highterarde ; to 

throup G ' 1 Ardrahan. 

R Dublin. 81 a 

rt and T.iv. rpool. 

Clifd . 17 in. : Moy- 
cnll 

: ! lead- 
ary, 

rt. J] ; B 

: I 22. 

found in 

i • '/.. 

Sir Tl: 

\ . I '. I j . : 

I Esq.) ; 

i 

M I ' 

. i . 
I i •. pret- 

I 



/.' . — 

1. Barna, 

2. Con--. 

3. 01ape-(3alway [Rte. 21). 
f. Moycullen. 

5. Aran Islands. 

[The pleasant coast-road may 
be tak< n that runs on the N, of 
Galway Bay, through 1 m. Salt* 
hill, the favourite Buburb of the 
wealthy Galwegians, who are gra- 
dually creating a marine West-end, 
Tl, Logisl will find between this 

and Barna very much to interest him. 
Immediately to the rt. of the road 
the granite is seen cropping oul and 
forming the high grounds to the X. 
almost as faras Oughterarde. On the 
opposite side of the bay arc the cliffs 
of Clare, which presenl lower Silurian 
rooks flanking the conglomerate b< d.< 
never seen in England . succeeded by 
a valley of denudation in which the 
lower limestone shales are visible, 
From hence the cliffs rise to the W., 
with the upper limestones throwing 
off millstone grit and thin worthL 
coal-seams. The white low cliffs at 
the water's edge are of drift, of 
which a magnificent section isobs< iv- 
able nearly opposite Barna Houe 
at the projecting peninsula of Sea- 
weed Point. 1 [( re and in the h; 
on each Bide are unique displays of 
drift cliffs, filled with fragments of 
k of different formations, all ex- 
hibiting the peculiar groovi] on 
the shore, at the bottom of the clii 
v be > en large blocks, some 

w.i-i,. d oul of the cliff, and ot Ik ra 

1 adherent to their b of clay. 

Tl; >logist should on no account 
omit ' refully study these ap- 

irana the drift formation is 

here visible on a scale unknown in 
England. These drift promontori 
are in all probability thecoasl termina- 
tion of tl r ridges of sandy 
hill 1 1 hi t extend across Ireland fr< 
I uiblin, and s< parated the island 
into ita fir ' M ; dan divisions 

I o tl • B., and Leath 



170 



Route 20. — Galway to Clifden. 



Ireland. 



3 m. Barna House, a well-wooded 
demesne facing the sea, and the re- 
sidence of Nicholas Lynch, Esq. 
There are slight remains of a castle 
that formerly belonged to the 
OHallorans, from whom the Lynches 
acquired it by marriage. 6 m. Fur- 
bough or Fnrbo (A. Blake, Esq.), is 
another prettily-situated residence, 
affording pleasant contrast to the 
sterile rocks and highlands inland, 
Here the united streams of the 
Knock and Loughinch rivers are 
crossed. 

9 J m. S piddle (or Spital, from its 
being the site of an ancient hospi- 
tinm, of which slight remains still 
exist) is a small village at the 
mouth of the Owenboliska river, a 
rather considerable stream rising 
in the dreary moorlands of Iar 
Connaught, a little to the S. of 
Oughterarde. The village is some- 
times frequented by anglers. From 
hence a road is carried over the 
most desolate and barren hills to 
Moycullen 8J m. ^p. 175 ). Indeed, the 
whole of ttie district is very little dif- 
ferent from that described bv Moly- 
neux in 1709. " I did not see all 
this way three living creatures, not 
one house or ditch, not one bit of 
corn, nor, I may say, one bit of land, 
for stones : in short, nothing ap- 
peared but stones and sea." 

12 m. the Owenriff river is crossed 
near Cahir, where there is a lead- 
mine. 

At Minna once stood the castle 
of Inveran, the local^, in 1549, 
of the murder of Walter Bourke; 
brother of " Iron Richard," the hus- 
band of Grace O'Malley. 

10J m. This road terminates at 
the coast of Cashla Bay, where, 
at the coast-guard stat., a boat 
may be obtained to cross the inlet. 
At 17^ m. a road on rt. runs for 3 m. 
to Derrynea Lodge. Here a fishing 
stat. has been established by a few 
gentlemen who preserve the Cashla 
river, a stream of some breadth, 
which rises in the moors to the N., 



swelling in its course into numerous 
loughs. The region to the W., which 
lies principally in the baronies of 
Kilcumin and Killanin, is seldom or 
never visited, and indeed holds out no 
inducement to the general tourist to 
do so, its principal features being 
moorlands of no great height, covered 
at different levels with small fresh- 
water lakes, and frequently indented 
with the many bays which have ob- 
tained for this district the poetic 
name of Connemara, or Cuan-an-ir- 
more, " the bay of the great waters." 
Detached from the coast are 2 con- 
siderable islands named Lettermore 
and Gorumna. Conspicuous in the 
S.W. are the 

3 islands of Aran, or Aran-na- 
neeuv (" the Islands of the Saints "), 
known 1000 years ago as "Insula^ 
in oceano occidentali positas cogno- 
mento Arann," and still believed by 
many of the peasantry to be the 
nearest land to the far-famed island 
of O'Brazil or Hy Brisail, the blessed 
paradise of the pagan Irish. It is 
supposed even to be visible from the 
cliffs of Aran on particular and rare 
occasions — 

" On the ocean that hollows the rocks where 
ye dwell 
A shadow} 1 - land has appeared, as they tell ; 
Men thought it a region of sunshine and 

rest, 
And they call'd it O'Brazil, the isle of the 
blest." 

Griffin. 

Passing over the tradition of Lough 
Lurgan ^p. 168), "the earliest refer- 
ence to its pra3- Christian history is to 
be found in the accounts of the battle 
of Muireadh, in which the Firbolgs, 
having been defeated by theTuatha- 
de-Dananns, were driven for refuge 
into Aran and other islands on the 
Irish coast, as well as into the west- 
ern islands of Scotland." — Haverty. 
Christianity was introduced in the 
6th cent, by St. Endeus, who ob- 
tained a grant of the islands from 
iEngus, the Christian King of Mini- 
ster, and founded 10 religious esta- 
blishments. Like Barddey Island in 



I ! V.ND. 



Route 20. — Aran Islands. 



171 



North Wales, Aranmore speedily ob- 

ineda world-wide renown forlearn- 

£, piety.and asceticism, and "many 

hundreds of holy men from other 

if Ireland and foreign oountri 

inily resorted to it to study the 

I S iptures and to Irani and 

pr rigid austerities of b 

hermit's life;" in consequence of 

rich the 1 was distinguished 

by til ' Aran. i \animh or 

of the Saints. In 1651 the 

I anricarde fortified the 

stle of Ardkyn, which held out 

e Pi rli mentary army for 

an a year after the surrender 

. but on the occupation of 

id the soldier- i ( Iromwell 

I the gnat chi of St. 

A\ materials for tl 

:ir of the fort. 

The Aran islan across the 

of f mlwav Bay, 29 m. from 

thi hour, and consist of 3 in 

ilimor< Great Is- 

m. long and 11 I ; Inish- 

Btliddle Island), 3 m. long 

I 1 \ m. broad : an 1 I dsheer South 

2 

; the mails starts 
Iway evi ry si cond day, but 
traveller must be prepare d for 
- : for, though he m 
sland frequently in 1 hi 
detained l n or i ven 
r. Tl. mbarkatioii is g< ne- 

; by t j of tl 
;h is about 8 ft. lo] 
with 1 nil : I, 

Tying 3 p • Such 

ity with which it is 
t it will land 
rough the 
rs." — Arch. Camb. 
r< i- no districl 
with early remains as this, 
trist who w ke 

! >i'. Pel 
A 

T ! >n- 

• which \£ 



a decent inn, and KiUeany, both on 
the shores of Killeany Bay, ;il the 
S.E. end of the island". The latter, 
now a wretched village, was once of 
great note, having obtained its name 
from Si. Endeus or Eaney, the firsl 
Christian missionary. Close to the 
i arc the slight mins of Arkyna 
Castle mentioned above. It i> nor 
more ancient than the time, of 
Elizabeth. Ascending the hill, the 
visitor arrives al the Round Tow 
of which, however, only* the base 
remains, about 5 it. high and 
in circumference, though it was 
of very considerable height within 
the memory of man. Near this, and 
on the highest point of the easto ]-n 
end of the island, is 7'« ampull V><n<iin* 
the ch. or oratory of Si. Benan, an 
unique specimen <>f early Irish ch., 
and considered by Dr. Petrie to be 
of the 6th cent. Externally it is 
only 11 ft. broad and 15 ft. in 
length, and is remarkable for the 
greal height of the gables, which was 
not less than 17 ft., and most pro- 
bably form- d of overlapping ston< 
The ch. stand- 'v. and S., instead of 
the usual orientation. I by are 

the ]•< mains of the hermitage, partly 
sunk in the rock : and of >g- 

hauns or stone-roofed dwellings, pro- 
bably belonging i<> the monks of 

the eh. 

( )n the S.W. coast of the island 

'7/ Cah r Black Fori . a dim 

ni- fortress, with walls of enormous 

;'\-t ry rude masonry.over- 

looking the cliffs, A ch< vaux-de- 

,rji stones served a- an 

■ ra mean ice on the land 

:nd in the interior an- remains 
of cloghauns. Dr. O'Donovan con- 
at this fori was raised by 
the V' ry < arliesl inhabitants of I 

• :i walk' m. 

will bring the tourist to Kiln 
the principal vill islai 

h <•« ni inii. the 

ither 

tin I - the 

' 1 2 



172 



Route 20. — Galivay to Clifdcn. 



Ireland. 



S. coast a little higher up to Dubh- 
Cathair (the Black City), a fortress 
constructed and defended in a similar 
manner to the last named. It is 
2 m. over the hill from this spot to 
Kilronan. A walk of 2 m. to the 
N.W. will embrace a large number 
of interesting antiquities. About 
1 m. on the rt. is Teampull Chiarain, 
which has a very beautiful E. window 
and some crosses. 1J m. on the hill 
to 1. is Oghill Fort, a large dun near 
the lighthouse, which, it may be 
mentioned here, shows a revolving 
light at the heisrht of 406 ft. above 
the sea. In the neighbourhood of 
Oowragh are Teampull-an-Cheath- 
rair-alainn (the eh. of the 4 Comely 
Saints), also a cromlech, and the eh. 
and Holy Well of St. Soorney. 

4 m. from Kilronan, on the N. coast, 
are Kilmurvey and Teampull Mic 
Duach, a 6th cent, ch., consisting of 
nave and choir in beautiful preserva- 
tion, exhibiting some very fine Cyclo- 
pean masonry. " There are windows of 
extreme antiquity, with lintels formed 
of 2 leaning stones ; and although the 
beautiful semicircular E. window is 
of a more recent date, there is a 
stone leaning against the E. gable, 
with a rudely-cut opening, which 
seems to have been the head of the 
more ancient window." There is 
also a remarkable narrow doorway, 
shaped like the entrance to an 
Egyptian tomb. Besides these re- 
mains there is Teampull Beg (the 
pmall ch.), together with the Holy 
Well and an Aharla, or monastic 
enclosure. On the S. coast, barely 
1 m. distant, is the' fortress of Dun 
JEngus, described by Dr. Petrie as 
" the most magnificent barbaric mo- 
nument now extant in Europe." It 
is built on the very edge of a sheer 
precipice 300 ft. in height, and is in 
form of horseshoe shape, although 
some antiquaries incline to the belief 
that it was originally oval, and that 
it acquired its present form from the 
fd ling of the precipices. It consists 
of 3 enclosures, the w r all which 



surrounds the innermost being the 
thickest : this enclosure measures 
150 ft. from N. to S. Outside the 
second wall is the usual accompani- 
ment of chevaux-de-frises, formed 
by sharp stones placed on end, 
seemingly to hinder the approach of 
an enemy. About the 1st cent, of 
the Christian era, 3 brothers, iEn- 
gus, Conchovar, and Mil, came from 
Scotland to Aran, and their names 
are still preserved in connection 
with buildings on the island — " the 
ancient fort on the great island, 
being called Dun JEngus ; the great 
fort of the middle island, superior in 
strength and preservation to the 
former, bearing the name of Dun 
Connor or Conchovar ; and the name 
of Mil being associated with the low 
strand of Port Murvey, formerly 
known as Muirveagh Mil, or the 
Sea-plain of Mil." — Haverty. 

5J m. Dun Onaglit or Eoghanacht, 
on high ground to the 1., is a circular 
Firbolgic fort measuring 92 ft. across. 
Like all the other duns in the island, 
the defences are maintained by 3 
walls one inside the other. "Upon 
the inner side are 4 sets of steps 
leading towards the top, like those 
in Staigue Fort in the county of 
Kerry." 

At the north-western extremity, 
6 m. from Kilronan, is another in- 
teresting archaeological group, con- 
sisting of the 7 churches, or at least 
what remains of them. There are only 
portions of a ch. known as Teampull 
a PJioill, or the ch. of the Hollow, and 
Teampull Brecain, the ch. of St. Bre- 
cain, who was the founder of the 
episcopal ch. of Ardbracean, in the 
county of Meath, and grandson of the 
1st Christian Prince of Thomond. 
At the opening of the grave by 
Dr. Petrie many years ago, a skull 
was found supposed to belong to 
the saint. The ch. has a chancel 
of rude masonry, and a more modern 
choir, with a lancet E. winddw. 
Traces of a monastic building, an 
engraved cross, and an inscribed 



Ireland, 



Route 20. — Aran Island*. 



173 



nr were found by Mr. Wilde, who 
also discovered and put together a 
inly-sculptured cross in the neigh- 
bouring Aharla, or sacred enclosure. 
Overlooking the beach are the ruins 
of a strong square castle, known 
. Caislean, the Old Castle. 
The g cal formation of the whole 
island is that of carboniferous lime- 
- roe, which presents much bold 
grand sea fronts, "The soile is 
almost paved over with stones, soe 
as in - >me places nothing is to be 
but large stones with wide 
openings between them, where cattle 
breake their legs." — O'Flaherty. At 
the beach of Git naghaun, near the 
7ehi strata are horizontal, 

ogularly broken up by vertical 
gssun 3. Owing to the difficulty of 
walking on the huge limestone ilags 
u thi Granites have adopted san d a l s, 
or pamp i they call them, of 

a very primitive kind. Ihese, which 
all tile children are taught to make 
atth< of 7,are formed of cowhide 

witli t:;.- hair left on, cut away low 
■ . aidi 9, with <»nly a little pointed 
in front, just sufficient to cover 
the toes." — Arch. Cambr. 
Traces of the drift are frequent in 
the shape of granitic bould< rs 
jlit over from the high grounds 
I innemara. There is a very con- 
mple near the ruins of 
i. 
'Hi.- middle island of Aran, or 
J mil, is s< p irated from the 

■mer by i it about 1 m. acn 

I j ►ry'fl Sound, The 

>ipal ical feature is 

. >rConc1 obhair, an oval 

rt on cliff, surrounded 

tal wall with a '_■• 

wa; d in a square fort. Ci< 

ruined church of T.nm- 
ht-m; B tw< M 1 and '2 

;. separated 
by ti I d Bonn 1. which 

dun call 
r Casl • a 

L of th ( -ud 

I ch. Till popu- 



lation of the 3 Aran islands is up- 
wards of 3000 souls, principally sup- 
ported by fishing, although the 
pasturage, like on most Limestone 
rocks, is of a very rich and sweet- 
fiavoured description. The owners 
o( the soil are the Misses Digby.who 
have done very much to ameliorate 
the condition of the people. 

In 1857 the islands were visited 
by a detachment of the British As- 
sociation, under the leadership oi Sir 
W. Wilde, and the results of the 
visit wi re subsequently embodied in 
an interesting pamphlet, to which 
the writer of this notice is in- 
debted.] 

[A delightful excursion may be 
taken up the Lough Corrib to 
I og, 27 m. A small steamer 
plies daily, and the time oc- 
cupied in* the journey is about 
4 hrs. The river, which at the 
starting-point above the bridges is 
tolerably wide, soon narrows, and 
receives on rt„ opposite the Distillery 
of Newcastle, an affluent known as 
Terryland river. Close by are the 
slight ruins of Terryland, or Tirra- 
Uen Castle, a residence of the Do 
Burgos in the 13th cent. '1 m. rt. 
is Menlouqh, or Menlo Castle Sir 
Thos. Blake , an ivy-coven d castel- 
lated mansion, very prettily Bituato 1 
,,n the bank of the river. About 
J m. distanl from the village of Men- 
lough, and close on the brink of t 
lake, are the marble-quarries of A n- 
gliham, which yield a very cele- 
brated quality of stone. The marble 
is jet black, and susceptible of high 
polish. "It has been raised in solid 
blocks, often weighing upwards of 
4 tons, and measuring from L8 to 
ft. long,'' and the quarries are 
Bituated on the edge of xtra- 

ordinary plateau of the upper carbo- 
niferous limestone which surrounds 
■ i, the V. and E. sidi 
I om M. nlough to tin- entrai 
of the lake the river nam.. - con- 
derably, having on each ride of it 
ih, lUntfl 



174 



Route 20. — Galway to Clifdtn. 



Ireland. 



wild fowl. The other passages 
are scarcely navigable. After a 
course of about 4 m. the steamer 
enters Lough Corrib (anc. Lough 
Oirbse), one of the most exten- 
sive and peculiar of these fresh- 
water seas for which Ireland is so 
remarkable. The length of the 
lake to Cong is about 20 m., and 
the greatest breadth 6 m., not in- 
cluding, however, the arm that 
runs up to Maume. It possesses 
50 m. of shores, and occupies 30,000 
Irish acres, with a considerable fall 
from the summit level to the sea, 
and a surface of 13 ft. 9 in. above 
high water. A survey was made 
by the Government with a view 
towards establishing a grand inland 
navigation from Galway, Lough 
Corrib, Lough Mask, and Lough 
Conn to Killala, and thereby saving 
the inconvenience and dangers of 
the coast route. The lake was 
deepened in some parts, and lofty 
piles of stones erected so as to mark 
the channel, but with the exception 
of these improvements, and the 
canal to connect the lake with the 
sea at Galway, the scheme became 
abortive — the navigation at present 
being limited to the steamer, and a 
few big barges which sail with the 
wind from Cong, carrying kelp, sand, 
&c. The direction in which Lough 
Corrib runs is N.W., and it is divided 
into 2 parts by a long narrow strait. 
Of these the northern is the largest, 
although, from the number of islands 
scattered about, it does not apparently 
present such a large expanse of 
water. Altogether, 'the islands are 
said to number 365, one for every 
day in the year, but the tourist will 
soon find out that this is a popular 
delusion applied to almost every lake 
and bay in the country. The depth 
is very variable, in some places 
upwards o£28 ft., although in winter 
this is always increased somewhat ; 
while in other parts it is scarcely 
3 ft. ; long shoals of jagged rocks 
frequently appearing above the water. 



On first emerging into the lake 
the traveller obtains directly ahead 
of him and to the N. W. a very lovely 
view of the Connaught hills, espe- 
cially those in the neighbourhood 
of Maume. The shore on the rt. is 
flat and uninteresting, but on the 1. 
is a continuous and gradually in- 
creasing chain of high ground, on the 
side of which the road to Oughte- 
rarde is carried, lined with pleasant 
woods and residences, amongst which 
is conspicuous a nunnery for the 
Sisters of Mercy, established by 
Father Daly. 

A little to the N.E. is the isolated 
hill of Knoeknaa, near Tuam, which, 
as the channel changes, shifts its 
position so much that the tourist is 
puzzled how to maintain his bear- 
ings. Numerous towers of castles or 
ruined churches stud the banks of 
the lake, the greater part of which 
will be found under their respective 
routes, as they are unable to be 
visited except by land. In the dis- 
tance on the rt., about 1 m. up, are 
the towers of Clare-Galway castle 
and abbey (Ete. 21), while 1. nearer 
the lake is the castle of Moycullen, 
otherwise called Hag's Castle, or 
Cuishla dda Cuilach. In about 
4 m. the lake contracts, and the 
steamer enters the long and tortuous 
channel of Knock. On rt., close to the 
shore, are the ruins of Annaghdown 
Castle and eh., formerly the seat of 
the bishopric in which Galway was 
included ; also the woods of Annagh- 
down House ( — Blake, Esq.), and 
Woodpark House). 

Half way up the strait is the ferry 
of Kilbeg or Knock, at which a pier 
has been erected for the convenience 
of the traffic to Headford, 3 m. 
distant (lite. 21). Close by the land- 
ing-place are Clydagh House, the 
beautifully-wooded seat of F. Staun- 
ton Lynch, Esq., and the ruins of 
Cargen's Castle. A little farther 
on is Anaghheen Castle; and nearly 
opposite on the other bank the 
tower of Aiigh-na-nure Castle, the 



Ireland. 



Boute 20. — Inch a-goiU. 



175 



old residence ol the O'Flaherties 
close to Oughterarde. The Lake new 
expands again, and presents Borne 
beautiful views toward- Maume; the 
mountains being grouped together 
in a very peculiar manner. The big 
flat-topped hill is B< nlavie, while 
the Bharp escarpment to the rt. is that 
of Kilbride, which overhangs Lough 
Mask. The islands which form such 
an important item in the Burface of 
this portion of tic lake occupy about 
1000 acres, 6 o( them being in- 
habited. The Bteamer passes on the 
1. an island graced by a summer 
residence belonging to the Rev. J. 
D'Arey, wardeD oi Galway. 

The island of Incha-goill, or Inis- 
an-Ghoil] Craibhthigh, " the island 

the devout for< mould be 

visited by the antiquary for tin- sake 
of it> interesting ecclesiastical ruins, 
and for this purpose a boat will have 

I..- taken from Cong, distant about 
3 the st ( •amor <!<>es not slop 
at the island. It contain- the ruins 
of the small ch. of Templepatrick, 
insidered t<> he of the age of, and 
indeed founded by, St. Patrick. It 
po and chancel, although 

it- length is only 35J ft. The 

doorway is of the simplest descrip- 
tion, with inclined side.-. A stone 
•; i ch. on which is inscribed, 
to Dr. Petrie — 

LIE LUQNA] IKJN macc lmbkukh ; 

in English, "the Btone of Lugnae- 
d i of Limeneneh." 

] be individual commemorated by 

(g gt '!•• is supposed to have been 

a ] rSt Patrick. The second 

el rained, is of much lal 

similar form and dimensions, 

_h of more b autiful architecture. 

A rite Inch-a-goiU, on the 

•n bank of the lab . is Bally- 

fle and House ( '. Lynch, 

Esq. . A little (1; i this 

• • bland of Inuihmicairet r, 

h an abb< y form* rly exi »ted. 

\.\\ . corner oi 

• d rami foi 



distance inland between the moun- 
tains terminating at Maume. 

25 m. at the head of the hike are 

the pretty woods of A.shford 11. 
Guinness, Esq. , and the village of 
Con- p. 182).] 

A ear leaves daily for Oughterai de 
ami Olifdeo from Bianconi's coach- 
office in Eyre Square. Passing over 
the river and canal and by the Queen's 
College, the traveller enters the dis- 
trict of Iar Oonnaught or Western 
Connaught, the bead-quarters of the 
powerful clan of the OTlaherties. 
This district extend- for aboul 30 m., 
and is now comprise d in the baroni< a 
of Moycullen and Ballynahinch. For 
several miles the road skirts the bigh 
grounds on the W. bank of Lough 
Corrib, passing many pretty wood- 
embowered villas,and amongsl othj rs 
a nunnery for Sisters of Mercy. Fine 
views areobtained of the hills at the 
head of the Lough, amongst which, 
on a clear day, the peak of Xephin, 
near Ballina, is very conspicuous. 
Far in the distance on the E. is 
Knocknaa, the Hill of the Fairies, in 
the direction of Tuam. 

4f m. 1. Woodstock House (F. 
Comyn, Esq.), well sheltered amidst 
thriving plantations ; and further on 
is Kirkullen House Oapt. Hare. 

c; in. rt. isthe small lake of Bally- 
cuirhe, b yond which is the lon< ly 
tower of Hag'% Castle, or Cuishla- 
dda-Cuilach, a fortress of the Fla 
herties, who possessed nearly the 

whole of this territory. 

In the time of Elizabeth the father 

of the then OTIaherty was confined 

in this castle of Moycullen, and 
starved to death. 1\ m. Moycullen is 
oeat village with the usual pa- 
dual institutions. The land in the 
immediate neighbourhood was I 
property of the late Lord Campbell, 
wIim did mucb towards its improi 
,,t : hut very shortly the touri 
enters upon the domain of Ballyna- 
hinch. A road on rt. runs on the 
side of the lake to 6j m. Knock 
Ferry, en route forH< adford \>. 1*1 , 



176 



Route 20. — Galivay to Clifden. 



Ireland. 



while one on the 1. crosses the deso- 
late hills to 8J in. Spiddle (p. 170). 

8 in. 1. Danesfield House (G. Burke, 
Esq.) ; and bordering- the road a little 
further on are Drimcong, Deerfield, 
and Knockbane, the residence of A. 
O'Flaherty, Esq. 9 m. on rt. below 
the road is Ross Lake, a long, narrow 
sheet of water, studded with prettily- 
wooded islets and patches of rock. 
Boss House, situated at the head of 
the lake, is the residence of Jas. 
Martin, Esq., whose family has been 
seated here since the time of Eliz. 
There are several ruins in the vici- 
nity — as Oghery Castle on a small 
island and a ch. on the opposite 
side known as Templebegnaneeve. 
At this point of the route the travel- 
ler enters the widely-spread domain 
of Ballynahinch (p. 179), through 
which he journeys for a distance of 
26 m. The Law Life Insurance Com- 
pany now hold this territory of the 
old Martin family, a territory so wild 
and extensive that it was the boast 
of Connaught that " the king's writ 
could not run in it." The traveller 
will, however, observe for himself 
during his journey that -fa of this 
property might well be spared, as 
regards its agricultural qualities. 
From hence the country begins to 
lose a great deal of the wood and 
timber which has hitherto sheltered it, 
and relieved it from its native wild- 
ness, which very soon begins to show 
i tself in the wide melancholy moors 
between this and Oughterarde. On 
the 1. they gradually rise to a con- 
siderable height, the highest point, 
Knockalee Hill, being 955 ft. Innu- 
merable little streams, emerging from 
as many small lakes permeate. their 
brown moors in every direction, the 
only signs of civilization being the 
long straight road that is visible for 
miles, and an occasional group of 
cottages on the hill-sides, of such a 
dubious colour that it is some time 
ere the eye becomes accu.stomed to 
the sight of them. Just after passing 
the lodge-gate of Eoss the first 



beautiful peep occurs of the 12 Pins 
of Connemara, the highest points in 
the Western Highlands. 

15 m. rt., near a spot where a 
stream is crossed by a natural bridge 
of limestone, are the ruins of Augh- 
nanure Castle (the Field of the 
Yews), called otherwise the Castle 
of the O'Flaherties. The remains 
consist of a massive square tower 
surrounded by outworks and a 
banquet ing-hall, the date of the 
whole being probably of the 16th 
cent. Notice in the latter the in- 
terlacing patterns of the windows. 
A small river washes the walls 
of the castle, which also commands 
a strong position over Lough Corrib. 
The Q 'Flaherties, to whom it be- 
longed, were a powerful family who 
had held this country from time 
immemorial, and long struggled 
against the English Government, 
with which it was always at variance, 
as also with its neighbours the Gal- 
way colonists. In the reign of Eli- 
zabeth, however, government re- 
duced it to obedience by fomenting 
discord amongst its members, and in 
1569 Morough O Flahertie was ap- 
pointed governor of the county of 
Iar Connaught. The glories of 
the family establishment are enu- 
merated in an ancient MS., as main- 
taining a physician, standard-bearer, 
brehon or judge, the keeper of the 
black bell, the master of the revels, 
the keeper of the bees, &c. The 
present representative is G. F. O'Fla- 
hertie, Esq., the owner of the neigh- 
bouring demesne of Lemonfield. 

16 J m. Oughterarde, a straggling 
little town of a single broad street, 
situated picturesquely enough on the 
river Owenriff, which flows in a 
somewhat romantic channel into 
Lough Corrib. With the exception 
of its enormous Union House, it does 
not contain anything worth notice, 
but its proximity to the lake renders 
it a convenient station for fishing 
parties (Hotel, Murphy's). About J m. 
outside the town is an extremely 



" 



Ireland. JR ■' 20. — Lake and Mountain Scenery, 



177 



pretty waterfall, in the bed of which, 
when the water is low, the geolog 
can Bee a go "I section of tfie car- 
boniferous limestone. 

s, — Galway, 16§ m. : Re- 

33, IS: Maume, 12; Lough Bonn, 

: Flynns, 12. 

[A road on rt. runs from Oughte- 
rarde along the Bide of Lough Cor- 
rib, passing 1 or2 Little hamlets, and 

irtiag the base of Carn Seefin 
(lu«»ii ft. . on the Bides of which a 

pper-mine was i stablished. Ai 
daura, oppbsite the beau- 

illy-wooded hill of Doon, a boat 
may be obtained, and the pedestrian 
may CI — the arm of the lake, and 
follow the road on the N, hank to 
Maume.] 

I' >r almost the whole distance to 
Clifden the road is carried over a 
ak moor, the geological character 
of which is mica rock, occasionally 
into talcose rock. 
At 20 m. 1. is Lough AgrarTard, 
the firsl of the chain of lakes that 
opany the road the whole way 
It is succeeded by 
L ; :!i Adrehid, and at 22J m. by 
Long] B ■tin, one of the larg< ai of 
the whole chain. The Bcenery is pe- 
culiar, and, unhss under a bright 
i3i ng from the monotonous 
outli: the hills and the Bombre 

»f the peal and lake wati 

There is - ditary school-house ai 

( . la. 25 m. Ardderry Lough, 

with 27 m. Lough 

S Jndilla, i of the prettiesl be- 

the most wooded of the seri 

[A little before arriving at the E. end 

ke, which is the watershed of 

vers running into I- >ugh ( lorrib 

Atlantic, a road od rt., ai 

B itl< r*s Lodg< . turn- ov< t the moors 

to y> Ette. 21 5 m., which 

lily bee it 

thai 
op to of I . '. h ( ' >rrib 

aid of ( Jastlekirke.] T 

it. have now 
nt outlin 



character from those which have 
hitherto accompanied us. In (act, 

we have arrived ai the greal group 
of the Western Highlands,' ol whi 
Bunnabeola, or the 12 Pins, is the 
centre ; and the traveller now Lob 
all sense of dreariness in the coal, m- 
plation of the magnificenl and rugged 
heights that constantly open out. 
The eastern portion of this range 
is mostly known as the Mamturk 
Mountains, and comprises, amongst 
others, the heights of Bhanfolagh 
(2003 ft.) and Leckavrea (2012). 
Polypodium dryopteris grows abun- 
dantly on th< se hills. At the end 
of Lough Shindilla is a small she- 

■ 

been-house, known as the Halt- 
way House or Plynn's, where th< re 
is a change of horses. Miss Plynn, 
the daughter of a former occupant, 
was celebrated for her beauty, the 
praises of which were chanted re- 
peatedly in the works of Inglis 
Barrow, and others. The family, 
however, have long left the neigh- 
bourhood. This is the highest point 
of the road, as is soon evident from 
the change of direction of the water's 
flow. [From hence a road runs direct 
to Kylemore 14 m., and it should be 
taken by the traveller who does not 
wish to go round by ClifdenJ 

Above 29j m. 1. Lough ( lurid, risi a 
the Ourid Bill, 1174 ft. From hen 
the road rapidly descends by th< 
of a mountain stream to 34] m. Red < 
[nn, a comfortable and unpretendi 
little holi I -landing back from the 
road at the fool of Ldssoughfo r, and 
an admirable station for investi- 
gating the beauti - of Glen Inagh 
and the 12 Pins. Garromin t one of 
the mosl beautiful of th< se lak< -, 
stretches before it, having on its 
opposite bank Glendalough, t 
thickly-wooded domi in rent d l>y 
the Duke of Richmond from I 
Law Life [nsurance ( lompany, but 
ai inhabited only by ;i ear< - 
tak< r. ( ''i an eminenc 
hot- Lis Li Lodg< J. B d- 

kin, J-,. -■{. . 'i ori I Bhould by 

i • 



178 



Route 20. — Galway to Clifden. 



Ireland. 



all means ascend Lissoughter, which, 
though reaching the height of only 
1314 ft., is so placed as to afford a 
better knowledge of the mountain 
scenery than almost any other hill. 
It is situated exactly at the end of a 
great transverse valley, of which it 
forms the key, the sides respectively 
being the Mamturk Mountains (Shan- 
folagh, &c), and the 12 Pins, which 
arc seen to great advantage. This 
valley is almost entirely filled up by 
the lakes of Derryclare and Lough 
Inagh, producing a magnificent scene 
seldom surpassed, although, from the 
lack of wood, invested with a severity 
peculiar to the Connemara scenery. 
On the side of the hill are marble- 
quarries, from which a valuable stone 
known as Connemara marble is ex- 
tracted, and worked for the most 
part into ornamental articles. A 
road turns off near the Kecess, which 
was commenced in the famine year, 
and intended to run the whole length 
of Glen Inagh to join the Kylemore 
road, but, like many other under- 
takings of that sad era. was never 
finished. 

Derryclare, the first lake, com- 
municates with Glendalough by a 
short stream called Bealnacarra, and 
also with Ballynahinch Lake by 
another. It is narrow, about 2 J m. 
long, and magnificently situated just 
at the foot of the 12 Pins. A little 
above it is Lough Inagh, even more 
beautiful, because occupying more 
fully the length of the valley for 
3 m. The whole of the E. side is 
bounded by the lofty mountains of 
the Mamturk range, the most con- 
spicuous points of which are, com- 
mencing from the S., Shanfolagh 
(2003 ft.), Maumeen (2076), Knock- 
na-hillion (1993), and Letter-brec- 
kaun (2193). In this valley are 2 
oases of cultivation, Derryclare (Mr. 
Cunningham) and Coolnacarton, the 
demesne of Mr. Joyce. 

Proceeding along the high road, 
the attention is altogether taken up 
by the 12 Pins — " bare, but glittering 



with the aerial brilliancy peculiar 
to their formation, their peaked 
summits rush together in elevations 
of from 2000 to 2500 ft., a splendid 
cloud-pointing assemblage. Conne- 
mara proper, though a mountainous, 
is not an upland country ; the plain 
from which its greatest elevations 
rise is little more on an average than 
100 ft above the level of the Atlan- 
tic ; so that its masses lose not a 
tittle of their real altitude, but, lifting 
themselves to their full height at 
a stretch, look over the plains with 
much greater majesty than many 
other mountains higher by 1000 ft. 
Benlettery and Derryclare stand 
foremost like an advanced guard to 
the group on the S., while in front, 
flank, and rear, open 4 principal 
glens, each one with his torrent, and 
3 of them with their proper lakes ; 
Glencoaghan, with the lower lake of 
Ballynahinch, looks southward on 
Roundstone and Birterbury ; Glen 
Inagh, cradling its black waters 
under the tremendous precipice of 
Mamturk, down which the stream 
that feeds Lough Inagh falls 1200 ft., 
and opens the gorge of its prison 
upon the E. ; Kylemore yawns N. 
and W. on Renvyle ; and on the W. 
and S. the ravine whose torrent 
waters Clifden looks over the At- 
lantic . ' ' — Bartlett. 

Bunnabeola, " the 12 most beau- 
tiful bens or Pins," the termination 
" la " signifying a superlative degree, 
is a grand irregular mass of slaty 
quartzite rocks, the peculiarity being 
not so much in the height as in the 
number of isolated points so nearly 
converging. The highest point, 
though not quite in the centre of 
the others, is Benbaun (2395 ft.), sur- 
rounded by Derryclare (2220), Ben- 
lettery (1904), Beiigower (2184), Ben- 
breen (2276), Bencollaghduff (2290), 
Bencorr (2336), Bencorrbeg (1908;, 
Muckanaght (2153), Benglenisky 
(2710), Benbrach (1922), and a small 
supplementary summit known as the 
Key of the Pins. The beauty of their 



=r 



' a\i\ 



Route 20. — Bally nah inch. 



170 



and precipitous Bides is -till 

rther enhanced by the colouring 

imparted to them from the various 

hi and lichens. The tourist 

who wishes for a magnificent view 

cannot do b itter than ascend Ben- 

ktery 1904 ft , winch, though 

not quite ><> high as some of the 

era, is less surrounded by rival 

eminence s. The view embra< 

Urrisbeg, Roundstone, and Birter- 

lmrv Bays in the S . backed up in 

the distance by Galway Bay, while 

( usm 1 and L tt< rshanna mountains 

as a t'<>r, grotind ; westward is 

Olifden and the whole country from 

1 y to Ardbear, Ballynakill 

y. the hill of Renvyle, with the 

blan in, Inishark, and many 

while further X. the sharp 

crags of Achill Head open out. E. 

the r of the Mamturk 

Mountains, with the melancholy p; 

M ami en. The botanist will find 
among the sides of the 12 Pins a 
rich harvest : Arbutus uva-ursi, Ly- 
. Empetrum nigrum, 
Alchemilla alpina, Saxifraga iiin- 
. Erica daboecia, S. oppobito- 
foli 

The road to Clifden crosses the 
B ' arm river, giving off on 1., a 
by-road, which runs down to the sea 
at Birl rbury Bay over a dreary moor- 

id. The ] • in who wishes to 

deith ahel 102^1 ft. orLet- 

tershanna Bhould follow this road, 
but, if on his way to Roundstm 
»uld carefully avoid it and keep 

• OB tO 

tn. Ballynahinch, which stands 

•ii and on the B. side 

same name. 

[At Canal Bridge a road on 1. 

to the hous< , and on to D< rra- 

l Roundston< . The lake is 

irregular and picturesque, and eon- 

t ti a in it- w- stern portion 

t which 

tie, with only 

main- 

. which WB 

ing I of 



the Martins, who " reigned " for 
many generations over this countv, 
is a plain embattled buildi 
pleasantly situated between the 
Lake and the river. Tt is now the 
residence of Mr. Robinson, agent 
to the Law Life Insurance Com- 
pany, who purchased the whole of 
this vast domain for 180,0002. when 
it came into the market. From all 
accounts, however, it would 3i em 
that the district has not derived that 
benefit which might be expeeto d 
from such an undertaking. "Col. 
Martin, the representative of the 
family BOme 50 years ago, is said 
to have endeavoured to put the 
Prince Regent out of conceit with 
the famous Long Walk of Windsor, 

by Baying that the avenue which 
led to his hall-door was 30 m. in 
length. The pleasantry was true to 
this extent, that the greater part of 
the distance of 40 m. from Galway 
to Bally nahinch lay within the Martin 
estates, while the road from the one. 
to the other Mopped short of the 
mansion, beyond which there was 
little else hut rugged paths." It 
was on the fortunes of this amiable 
though ill-fated family that Lever 
has founded his novel of the 'Mar- 
tins of Cn>" Martin.' Prom Bally- 
nahinch, where there is an inn, the 
road follows the 1. bank of the ( )wen- 
more, a very pretty stream, and, 
what is more, an admirable sporting 
river, to '1 m. I >' raddia, a ii 

lion, where tin re is ftlso a comfort- 
able little hotel kept by a Scotchman 
named Robertson, who i> engagt d in 
working the salmon fishery to a 
large extent, and sending the pn - 
Berv< d contents to mark. t. For 1 1 
purpose he rents the fishery, payi 
.">'</. per Lb. for all fish caught until 
June, and after that time '1.1. pel- lb. 
Tin- fish are cured here and pack d 
in tin h The rii ■ d 

by a bridge of:; archi - at this point! 
to which t e t !i,< - up. About 

yds. from h( :ik 

of the rivej mains 



180 



lioutc 21. — Oalway to Westport. 



Ireland. 



of the abbey of Toombeola, of which 
nothing but a couple of gable walls 
and a doorway are left. A Domini- 
can priory was founded here in 1427 
by O'Flaherty, but was demolished 
in the reign of Elizabeth, and 
partly carried away to build some 
other castle. 

About 2 m. further on is the 
little seaport of Eoundstone (Hotel, 
Kelly's), that at one time was 
destined to fulfil a great purpose, 
no less than to be the starting-point 
from Ireland to America. For this 
end a good road was made to it, and 
a convenient pier built by Mmmo 
the engineer, who saw in the beau- 
tiful and capacious bay capabilities 
of no common order. But the course 
of events at Gal way will most likely 
preclude the chance of Eoundstone. 
ever emerging from its obscurity. 
It is, however, a pleasant little 
place, and for fine coast-scenery, and 
bay studded with islands, few can 
compare with it. There is a mo- 
nastery for brothers of the order of 
St. Francis, also a coast-guard station 
in the island of Inishlackan, and the 
remains of churches in Croaghna- 
keela Island some 6 m. out, formerly 
a deer-park belonging to the Martins. 

About 2 m. further are more ch. 
ruins on St. Macdara's Island and 
Mason Island, the former consisting 
of a very primitive ch. only 15 ft. in 
length, and formerly possessing a 
high stone roof. The circular stone 
dwelling of the saint is adjoining, 
though greatly dilapidated. On the 
tongue of land adjoining is Ard 
Castle, a single tower with a staircase 
and interior passage at the top. 

Immediately behind Eoundstone 
rises Urrisbeg (987 ft.), which from 
its comparative isolation commands 
a remarkable view well worth the 
ascent. A remarkable trap-dyke 
runs from the summit to the sea. 
The botanist will find it to his 
account to make an excursion to 
Urrisbeg, if only to obtain a specimen 
of the Erica Mediterranea, a heath 



peculiar to Connemara, which grows 
Luxuriantly for a space of 3 acres on 
the western declivity. It flowers in 
March and April. Another rare 
fern, Erica Mackaiana, grows on " a 
declivity of a hill by the road-side 
within 3 m. of Eoundstone." From 
this spot a road follows the coast in 
a roundabout course to Clifden, and 
there is also a direct hilly road 
II m.] The former passes by Doo- 
hulla, where there is a lodge for 
anglers. A successful experiment 
has been carried on here by J. 
Knight Boswell, Esq., of stocking 
the river by means of artificial pro- 
pagation. 

From Ballynahinch the way lies 
under the 12 Pins and their outliers 
to 47 m. the romantic little town of 
Clifden (Ete. 22). Hotels: Hart's; 
Carr's ; Mullarky's, a new hotel, is 
said to be good. 



EOUTE 21. 

FROM GALWAY TO BALLINROBE AND 
WESTPORT. 

For the first 2 or 3 m. the road tra- 
verses a particularly desolate-looking 
district, which looks as if it was paved 
with stones — a huge table-land of 
carboniferous limestone, part of the 
same tract that strikes the tourist in 
his journey from Athenry by rail. 

4 m. rt. is Killeen House (P. 



:i.axi>. J? 21.— !-< -Ocdway — Roes All 



1S1 



unyn, Esq.), in the grounds of 
which is nined tower of the Bame 
name. Border tow< ca are very nume- 
rous over the whole of the W. of 
and Mayo, and Btrongly im- 
press upon us the insecure tenure of 
life and land in those days of hard 
hitting. Kiltullagh Castle is jusl 
>ther tower aboul |m. to the 
ad there is a third on the 1. 
near Bocklawn. 

Killeen is Rockwood. 
From hence, passing Borne pri- 
mitive mud-coloure^ Irish villag 

•»■ from the i straordinary 
nner in which they are built and 
huddled together without any ap- 
rent plan, we arrive 
7 :. • ,a Bmall villi 

on tfa - Lway river, possi — 

ing a picturesque castle and a very 
:utiiul abbey, I in the 13th 

tt. for Franciscan friars by John De 
( gan. It is a cruciform cli., con- 
g of nave, choir, and trans 

I by a graceful tower of 
. lighted by a small square 
window in each - though 

there is a Dec. window looki _ 
toward- the E. The intersecting 
- underneath the tower are 
uitiful, as is the mutilated 
. of the choir, which is 
d by <"> plain lanc< 
on ride. It ' a Di 

altar- of the date 1648. The 

only S. wall standing, 
Lighted by plain pointed windo 1 

inderneath '2. block d 
probably I for 

V wall 1 1 j - 

ly v< main 4 noble arches spri 
i rounded piers. A portl 
bbey is d I to the i 

little chapeL The 

• 

ited by a 6 
tuple of 

the family of 1 >•■ 
1 1 . and v ted by 1 

M of Clanricardt 

LI. 



diverges on rt. t<> Tuam. Grossing 

the Waterdale stream, on the hanks 
o{' which lower do,, q is anoth< r 
ruined lower Liscananaun ,we reach 
Cregg Castle, the wooded seal of 
l\ Blake, Esq., formerly the r< 
deuce of Kirwan, the chemist and 
philosopher, and th thplace of 

his brother Dean Kirwan, equally 
celebrated as a theologian. A pretty 
river Bcene opens <>nt as the road 
winds round the park and crosses 
the Cregg near some mil!.-. 

[4 m. 1., overlooking the low shores 
of Lough Corrib, are the ruhn I 

-de and eh. of Annagl down, win', 
though now desolate and neglected, 

was - Enachdone, a celebrated 
ecclesiastical establi nl ]». L67 , 

being the seal of a bishopric, and 
containing a nunn< bbey, a 

monastery for Franciscans, and the 
college of St. Brendan.] 

A little beyond Gregg is the 
Currabeg monastery. 18J m. 1. arc 
small remains of Cloghanower Castle, 
and very soon the extensive woods 
and park of Headford Castle come 
in sight. The ho ise is a line 
old Elizabethan building, and ilia 
residence of C. Si. George, Esq., 
to whom as resident landlord the 
town and neighbourhood of Head- 
ford are greatly indebt< 

m. Hi adford Inns : Headford ; 
Redington'f little town, 

ah< It- rtd by tli'- castle, 

and ]»lae. d in a rather English- 
lot king country. Alti is 
nothing in the town of inter* st, yet 
the tourist should by .11 means pay 
a visit to ./, Abbey, aboul IJ in. 
distant, one of the d 
and beautiful buildi .' land, 
built at the < 15th a t. 
by 1. I ( -ranard for < > 
i mciscans, and I I 
of ( Hanricarde 

religious bona 3. I tin- i 

ligious and d'!i. buildings, it 

ound 
on tin- 1 ad 

overlooking a tract of 



182 



Route 21. — Oalway to Westport. 



Ireland. 



bog. It is the cemetery of many good 
Connaught families, and probably 
contains more grinning and ghastly 
skulls than any catacomb, some of 
the tracery of the windows being 
filled up with thigh-bones and 
heads — a not uncommon way of dis- 
posing of these emblems of mortality 
in Irish abbeys. The ch. has a nave, 
choir, and S. transept, with a slender 
and graceful tower arising from 
the intersection. Attached to the 
nave are N. and S. aisles, and a 
chapel running parallel with the 
S. transept. The latter, together 
with the S. aisle, are separated from 
the nave by round-headed arches 
with octangular piers. Two round 
arches also divide the transept from 
the aisle, and 2 blocked ones from a 
chapel on the E. In the W. chapel 
of the S. aisle is a small monument 
of the O'Donnells, 1646. The nave 
is shut off from the choir by a broad- 
headed segmental arch. The latter 
part of the ch. is lighted on S. by 4 
double-light trefoil windows ; and on 
the S. side of the altar is a double- 
arched niche used as an ambry. The 
E. window is Dec, with very delicate 
tracery, and is worth notice, as is 
also the moulding of the W. door, 
close to which is the stoup for holy 
water. To the N. of the nave are 
the cloisters, which are in good pre- 
servation. The area is small, and 
surrounded by 10 beautiful pointed 
arches about 3 ft. high, the entrance 
of the passage within being under 
round-headed arches. 

" By pointed aisle and shafted stalk, 
Th r - arcades of an alley'd walk, 
To emulate in stone." 

From the N. of the choir runs a 
long chapel lighted by E. Eng. win- 
dows, those on the N. side having 
ogee heads. A projecting building 
also on the N. of the choir was pro- 
bably the abbot's residence, and 
beyond the N. transept is the kitchen, 
with ample fireplace and spout for 
carrying the water away ; also a 
stone reservoir and pipe connecting 



it with the river, probably used as a 
fish vivarium. On the E. of the 
kitchen is the guesten-hall, in which 
there is an aperture communicating 
with the kitchen for the entrance of 
the viands. Probably there is no 
ruin in the kingdom showing the do- 
mestic arrangements to greater ad- 
vantage than Ross, which on this 
account deserves to be attentively 
studied. The abbey is now the pro- 
perty of Mr. St. George, of Headford 
Castle. 

Conveyances. — Car to Gal way and 
Westport ; car to Tuam. 

Distances. — Galway, 20 m. ; Ballin- 
robe, 14; Tuam, 12^; Shruel, 4; 
Cong, 10 ; Ross Abbey, 1J ; Knock 
Ferry, 3J ; Clydagh, 4. 

[A very interesting detour may be 
made through Cong to Maume, and 
so on to Leenane or Clifden. 1J m. 
rt, on the banks of the Black river, 
is Moyne Lodge (P. Ward, Esq.). 
In the grounds is Moyne Castle, 
a square tower, in the interior of 
which is a spiral staircase leading to 
a covered passage running round the 
building, and lighted by loopholes. 
On the high ground to the N. is 
Moyne ch. in ruins. The abbey 
buildings of Ross have an extremely 
beautiful effect when viewed from 
this side of the river. 

5 m. is Glencorrib, the seat of Col. 
O. Higgins ; and a little further on is 
Houndswood (E. Dawson, Esq.). The 
road, as it traverses very high ground, 
affords exquisite views of Lough 
Corrib and Lough Mask, with the 
giant ranges. of the Maume mountains, 
and Benlevy in the distance, while 
more to the N. are Boliaun and the 
Partry mountains- In fact, a great 
portion of the wild Joyce's country 
is before the eyes, as regards its ex- 
ternal boundaries. 

7 m. the Cross, whence a road 
diverges to Ballinrobe. Garracloon 
Lodge is the residence of Dr. Veitch. 

On rt. is Ballymacgibbon House. 

10 m. Cong {Hotel: Burke's) is 
a quaint village situated in the 



\D. 



R ut* 21. — Cong. 



183 



of b district teeming with 
natura] curiosities, which in former 
tii.. ulil have been considered 

rd< ring o]\ the supernatural. Cong 
ut ly situated on a rapid 
.i emerges from Lough 
Mask, and i mpti< If into Lough 

i ' >mk aft< r a course of about 1 m. 
ie \ ii! _<• is j m. from the landing- 
pier on the latt«r lake, and near it 
on 1. is Ashford House, the resi- 
(1, not ' I. Guiness, Esq., and on 
rt. Btrandhill (Capt Elwood). A 
w bouse is also V>> ing built by 
W. Wilde at Gort-na-curra, the 
site of the ancient battle-field of 
W \ ira. 

The principal archaeological 
in . 1, a stone cross in the 

t, with a v< 
ancient Irish inscription in memory 
of 1" I and Nicol ( >" 1 )uti\ . who 

were form* rly abbots of Cong. 'J. The 
al irkable for i1 utiful 

Trans. -Xorm. architecture, though 
whole it is not an imposing 
of an extensive building. Eoderic 
O'Connor, the last native king 

I 1. .-pent the remain] 

15 ] - of hi- life here in the 
stri ision, dying in 1198, 

II;- tombstone is shown 
by the guid< s, although, according to 
- -.. . was buried at donmac- 
noise. The visitor should notice the 
autiful moulding of the entrance 

. the W. fr< 
which j ts internally a Norm. 

bl< or with bead moulding, 

the « xt< rior, 3 doors b 
ed, one 1 plain round- 

headed, and the others very rich 
Ti Norm, to E. Eng. Tin 

1 3-ligh1 window of n tnark- 

i, and others deeply 

ind round-headed. The 

call* d the Stra 

< ( !oncernii . y I )r. 

■■ I i ■■ found no au- 

tli ble me to fix wit 

of the of 

this moi tain 

no of it: the 



characteristics of its style are such 

as will leave no doubt of its being a 
work of the close ^\' the 12th cent., 
while its magnificence indicates with 
no less certainty the pious bounty of 
the unhappy Roderic, who, in his 
later years, found refuge and, wo may 
hope, tranquillity within its clo shred 
walls."* Adjoining the abbey is a 
neat villa, and pail of the ancient 
fishing-house on the bank of the 
river, which runs swifl and (dear. 
The abbey of Cong was uoted for its 
great riches and ornami ats, of which 
fortunately the CTOSS of Cong now in 
the Royal Irish Academy -iill re- 
mains as an example of exquisite 
chasing, showing to what a high 
pitch decorative ari had attained. It 
is of pure gold, containing a larg 
crystal in the centre. An account 

of it will be found at p. 11. Having 
examined the ruins, the visitor 
should explore the natural curi- 

d(s of Cong, chiefly caused by 
the vagaries of the river connecting 
Tough Mask with Tough Corrib. 
Although the distance i> really 4 m., 
its apparent career is only J m., 
as the remainder is hidden under* 
ground with hut few tokens of 
presence. The country to the N. 
of Cong, as far as I. ugh Mask, 
is a Miics of limestone plateai 
of carboniferous, though, according 
i i some geologie Silurian ag 

Whichever it maj he, ii in- 

larly perforated and und< rmined, 
and an approach t-> ii> subtei ranean 
1 x ;i ut it a is permitted at tin Pigeon 
Hole, about I m. distant from tl 
village In the centre of a field tin )«• 
i- a iii.ukt d dep] Q, having on 

one side a pi rjiciidicular hole of 

• 'ii ft. d< i p. and of 
barely that of the shafi ol l-j'it. 

The aspect of this aperture, covers d 

n is with f< rasand dripping m 

i- v. l \ p< culiar, and it a 

little resolution and al of 

cend tin shpp< rj to 

the bottom, wh( re we find a con- 

tn, in cuu- 



181 



Motile 21. — Galway to Westjport. 



Ireland. 



sequence of the hollowing away of the 
rocks. When the tourist's eyes get 
fairly accustomed to the semi-darkness, 
he will perhaps be fortunate enough 
to detect in the river, which runs 
babbling by him, the blessed white 
trout which always frequent this 
same spot, and to catch which was 
an act of impiety too gross to be 
committed. In addition to the guide, 
he is accompanied down the hole 
by a woman carrying a bundle of 
straw, which she lights and allows 
to' float down the stream. As she 
follows the windings of the cavern, 
every now and then disappearing 
behind the rocks, and then reappear- 
ing, waving the fitful torch above her 
head, the scene is at once mysterious 
and picturesque. Nearer Gong there 
are some more of these curious 
caverns : one of them is called " the 
Horse's Discovery," and contains 
stalactites. It is close to the old ch., 
which suffered so much injury from 
the depression of the ground, that a 
new one w x as obliged to be built. 
The tourist should engage the services 
of a guide, who rejoices in the name 
of Mick, and who has a legend for 
every spot, and a reason for every- 
thing. The river emerges for a few 
hundred yards close to some mills, 
where the water is plainly observed 
to bubble up and immediately run off 
in different directions, forming 2 sepa- 
rate streams. The canal is the last, 
and probably the greatest, curiosity, 
as an example, not to be matched 
in this kingdom, of a gigantic 
failure. During the frightful starva- 
tion crisis in Ireland, many hun- 
dreds were employed in this scheme, 
which was to connect the 2 lakes, 
and thus extend the inland naviga- 
tion to Lough Conn and the Moy 
rive]- at BaJiina. As far as the 
relief given to the suffering peasants 
it was very good ; but by some mistake 
in the engineering calculations, the 
canal was found, when finished, to 
be utterly incapable of holding water, 
from the porous and permeated cha- 



racter of the stone ; and to this day 
it remains a huge useless blunder. 

Conveyances. — Steamer daily to 
Galway. 

Distances. — Headford, 10 m. ; 
Maume, 13^; Ballinrobe, 7 ; Lough 
Mask Castle, 4. Galway by water, 27. 

From Cong the road to Maume con- 
tinues along the N. shore of Lough 
Corrib ; passing on rt. 2 m. Eosshill, 
a seat of the Earl of Leitrim, on the 
banks of Lough Mask. In the 
grounds are inconsiderable ruins of the 
ch. or abbey of Kosshill ; and adjoin- 
ing is Benlevy Lodge (T. Blake, 
Esq.). Directly in front of the tra- 
veller the mountains rise with fine 
abruptness ; on the rt. Benlevy, 
1286 ft. ; Bohaun and Loughnabricka, 
1628 ; and to the 1. the ranges of the 
Mamturk, in which Shanfolagh, 2003 
ft., is most conspicuous. Towards 
Lough Mask the precipitous hill of 
Kilbride is seen. Benlevy mountain 
is a very good landmark for this 
district, in consequence of its pecu- 
liar square truncated summit, on 
which there is a clear lake. It is 
worth ascending, as by going more 
into the heart of the Joyce country 
the views over the lakes are a good 
deal shut out by the mountains im- 
mediately around them. At 8 m. the 
road crosses the Dooghta river, rising 
in Loughnabricka, and skirts the 
singular arm pushed by Lough Cor- 
rib into the very heart of the moun- 
tains. 21 m. 1., on an island, are the 
conspicuous ruins of Castle Kirlce, 
otherwise called Caislean-na-Circe, 
the Hen's Castle, of such extent as 
to cover nearly the whole of the 
island. According to a legend, very 
widely spread in this district, it was 
built in one night by a witch and her 
hen, which, together with the castle, 
she gave to the O 'Flaherty, telling 
him that, if he was besieged, the hen 
would lay sufficient eggs to keep him 
from starving. The event soon hap- 
pened, but O 'Flaherty, forgetting the 
injunctions, slew the bird, and was 
immediately starved out. " Enough 



Ireland, 



B wtte 21. — Sh rule — Ballinn 



ISo 



n mains to exhibil its original plan, 

which was thai of an Anglo-Norm. 

• stle or keep, in the form of a 

parallelogram, with 3 projecting 

towers on its % 2 Longest sides; and 

the architectural featuresof the 13th 

cent, are also visible in some o( its 

uted windows and 

doorways." — Irish Pen. Mag, Ii was 

illv erected by the sons of Roderic. 

si king of [reland, with the help 

chard de Burgo. 
23} in. Maume Bridge [Rte.22 , 
where the traveller wili find a pleasant 
little inn,* built, as well as the bridge, 
by Nimmo the * ngineer, to whom Oon- 
mara ow< a innumerable debts of 
I itude. situation is enchant- 

er, at the base of the giant Lough- 
nabricka, and right in front of I. ck- 
avrea and Shanvolagh ; while - 
he Bealnabrack and the Pail- 
ni- ke away from the solitude and 

mpt the fisherman. Two other 
el here— one from the < >ugh- 
od ( [ifden road 4§ m. (Rte. 
ad one from Leenane, ninning 
>wn the valley of the Joyce's river 
B< . 22 . 

Di O mg, 13J m.; Leenane, 

8j : I ! Lfway-house, 6J.] 

I ontinuing on his course from 

1. the travelL r p -• - rt. 

. . i. House. Far in the di - 

tance is Knocknaa Hill near Tuam, 

from it- rition visible over 

a \ count] 

1 town situs 
on the ruins 

of i -towered castle, 

mi,i ;, m lasa 
( n- 

In 1641 Sir Henry I : no, 

try 
ut a (among whom v. 
I ! - Killala , arrive d 

irule i > 

* I of tlif Maum< 

■ 

.in 



been obliged to surrender from want 
of previsions), under promise of si 

orl from Lord Mayo and the R. C. 
Bishop of Tuam. Notwithstanding 
this promise, they were handed over 
at Shrule Bridge to the keeping of a 
relation of Lord Mayo, cue EkLmund 
Burke, "a notorious rebel and bitter 
papist, the man who not Long In lure, 
having taken the Bishop of Killala 
prisoner, wanted to fasten bim to the 
Sow a battering engine), with which 
he was attempting to beal down 
the walls of Castlebar, in order that 
the besieged in firing mighl shoot 
their own prelate." Otway. Theun- 
fortunate Protestants were attacked 
by him in the most ferocious manner : 
some were shot, others wire piked, 
others cast into the riv< r : in all 
were slaughtered. Tin re is a very 
handsome R. 0. chapel in Shrule. 

In the neighbourhood of the town 
is Dalgan House, the beautiful scat of 
Baroness De Clifford. The Blackwi ter 
in its course from Shrule to Thorpe 
plays the same vag as the river 

;;t ( 'ong, and has an und< und 

course for some little ice. 

28J m. Kilmaine. 

34 in. BaUinr* anc. Baile-an- 
rodhba) (Hotels: Victoria; Ballin- 
robe), a town of boi >0 [nhab., 

in pleasant proximity to Lough 
k and on the river Robe, 
though in itself cont nothing 

of into i ive small r< mains <<f an 

abbey ch. and a fine K. < pel. 

It i-, however, a good point from 
which • plore the beauti< a i £ 
Lough MatsJc,Q noble sheet of water, 
;n. long by -1 broad, with 2 
arm- about 1 m. distant from each 
other Btretching into J03 >untry, 

:tending for 1 m., the ol 
for 3, and having it- \ ■ 6 ft. 

ah<)\ ammer h \ el of I .■ 

i rib. Tie i of the 

imparatn i . but the 

W. is boundi -I by the fine, thoi 
somewl 

Pari >untaii i ' points 

i . ; and 



1S6 



Route 21. — Galway to Westj)ort. 



Ireland. 



Bohaun, 1204. 4 J m. from Ballin- 
robe, on the shores of the lake, is 
Lough Mask Castle, a solitary ruin 
of no great extent, but in a fine 
position. The island of Inishmaan, 
elose to the shore, contains a ruined 
eh., originally built by St. Cormac 
in the (Jth cent, and enlarged in the 
I2th. It has a good side doorway 
of quadrangular form, in which the 
weight of the lintel is taken off by 
a semicircular arch. 

The geologist will find on the 
shores of this lake Upper Silurian 
strata, which are the equivalents of 
the May Hill deposits, and their 
passage upwards into Wenlock beds. 

[6 m. 1. is Holly mount, a small town, 
also on the Kobe, containing a ch. 
with a cast-iron spire, and (at no great 
distance off; an Agricultural School. 
Adjoining the town are Holly mount 
Park (T. S. Lindsay, Esq.) and 
Bloomfleld (Col. Rutledge).] From 
Ballinrobe the road gradually ap- 
proaches Lough Mask, and at Keel 
Bridge crosses a narrow isthmus be- 
tween it and Lough Carta, an irre- 
gularly shaped lake, about 6 m. long, 
though never more than 1 broad. On 
the opposite bank of Lough Mask, 
under the Slieve Partry Hills, is 
Toormakeady, a seat of the Bi- 
shop of Tuam. 42 m. at the head 
of the lake is Partry, a village that 
has attained an unenviable notoriety 
from the number and frequency of 
evictions unfortunately necessary or 
considered to be so by the landlord 
of the soil. Iron-works were once 
established here, but are no longer 
worked. The road now diverges, 
the direct and shortest route to 
Westport being to the 1., but the 
antiquary will find it to his ac- 
count in taking the other route, 
and thus visiting the ruins of Ballin- 
tobber Abbey < anc. Baile-an-Tobhair), 
which, though little known, are very 
beautiful, and well worth a purpose 
expedition. Careful inquiries should 
be made as to the direct locality, as 
they lie on a by-road to Ballyglass, 



and just opposite a public-house 
called "Lyons." It is a large cruci- 
form ch., with nave, transepts, and 
choir, the latter . still possessing its 
roof. The visitor will be struck 
with the immense height of the 
gable ends and with the intersec- 
tion (where the tower once stood), 
which is marked by 4 splendid arches 
springing from sculptured imposts. 
The vaulted roof of the choir (which 
is divided into 3 bays) deserves 
particular attention. From each of 
them springs a vaulting arch right 
across to the opposite bay, as also one 
to the alternate angles, thus producing 
a singular intersection. Over the 
altar are 3 blocked windows of 
exquisite Norm, design, with double 
dog-tooth moulding, and over the 
middle light is another smaller Norm. 
window. On the S. side of the choir is 
an archway with 2 circular-headed 
arches, and on the N. is some 
moulding, apparently belonging to 
an altar-tomb. The nave is lighted 
by 8 Early Pointed windows, deeply 
splayed inwardly. In the transept 
are 2 chapels, the most northerly con- 
taining a stoup, the design of which 
is a misshapen head and face. The 
monastic buildings are at the end of 
the S. transept and adjoining the 
nave ; and in what was probably 
a chapel to the S. of the choir is an 
elaborate altar-tomb, on the pedi- 
ment of which are 5 singular figures 
representing ecclesiastics. The whole 
row was evidently filled by them, but 
the remainder have disappeared in 
the course of time. The visitor should 
also notice the doorway, an exquisite 
pointed arch resting on 4 receding co- 
lumns. This fine abbey was founded 
in the 13th cent, by Cafhal O'Connor, 
king of Connaught, for Canons Re- 
gular of the order of St. Augustine, 
and fortunately for the archaeologist 
lias but little history, as such gene- 
rally entailed the complete destruc- 
tion of all the finest features. A 
very dreary road leads from the 
abbey to the Triangle, following the 



Ireland. 



Bottf 22.— Clifdi 



1 7 



course of the Ayle, which like the 
( mg river flows through a lime- 
»ne table-land, and has at tina b a 
subterranean course. It rises near 
tlu- village of Aughagower m an 
impetuous cavernous spring similar 
that of the shannon on Oulkeagh 
moontaii] ; . and of course is the 
of many a curious country- 
sid( ry. It' the geologist 1 

tin* ■. he should follow the river up 
to its - ' u ■■■< . through this singular 
district At all events, if the da] 
. he will be gratified with the 
r views of Nephin over Lough 
nd the Reek near West- 
port, which show to great advantage. 
5 m. the Triangle, poinl of junction 
1 1 llinrobe roads. 
A little further on 1. is Ayle ch., 
and i by a mound surmounted 

by I shell of a ruin, known as 
Pkilbins I le. 

[H in. 1. is the village of Augha- 

r anc. Achadh-fcbhair), which 

1 be visited on account of 

it- round tower, a venerable 

Ivy-covered tower, of apparently 

_ s, of rude workmanship. It 

is lig I by 2 rude b< micircular 

archi d windo 3. ad entered by a 

square doorway. The conical topis 

want h _. 01< -•■ by is the ruin of a 

and high- 

I on E. by a v< ry 

jui t: . tndow splayed in- 

rdly. < )'i t: e I. of the building is 

in: ry. Rejoining th< road, 

Mountbrown J. \A\ >n, 

e.22). Hotd: 

ial. 



ROUTE 22. 

PROM CLIFDEN to LEENANE, WEST- 
PORT, AND SLIGO. 

Clifdi i Hotels: Hart's, comfort- 
able : Carr's, Mr. Hart is most 
ready to communicate to the tourist 
his large Btock of Local informa- 
tion about this district . After 
traversing the wild, heathery roads 
from Oughterarde and the Recei 
Clifden, with its picturesque streets 
and escarped situation, is pleasant 
to look upon. It mainly consists of 
2 streets, built at a considerable 
height, overlooking the harbour of 
Ardbear — one of those beautiful in- 
lets which are at oner the puzzle 
and the pride of Connemara, or 
Conmhaicnc-inara, " the land of 
bays." Tt has no antiquitii - to 
boast of, being an entirely modern 
creation of the family of D'Arcy, 
who have been untiring in labour- 
ing for the good of the locality, 
both t< mporally and spiritually. Its 
buildings are a pri ttj ch. and 
schools, an [rish M I louse, an 

orphanage, and an enormous work- 
house, district of I o beii 
one of those which suff! red 

irfully in the famine y< ar. The 
union comprises ai L92,0 

acre.-. I > i i t for the invalid and the 
rafter the picturesque,* Slifden 
will furnish much pleasure from the 
h. auty of tl lsI and its proximity 
to the Twelve Pins, which are 
to tie from • V( iy 

ling from the town. A riv< r 
descends from mountains, form- 

ing a v* ry pr< tty i de close to 
tie to Ardbear. 

I to Round qi I £i ris- 
liiimiii < i inl< ir, 



1SS 



Route 22. — CI if den to Sligo. 



Ireland. 



giving occasion to the driver to call 
attention to the fact of the traveller 
crossing the Atlantic in a car. On 
the 1. the view is very pretty when 
the tide is up and tills the little 
hay, an island with a crucifix on it 
being in the middle and a monastery 
on the opposite shore. The country 
between Clifden and Koundstone 

Kte. 20) is extremely dreary, as also 
all along the coast as far as Bun- 
owen, the seat of Valentine Blake, 
Esq- ; but by mounting the hill 
above it we get a good view of 
Slyne Head, on which is a light- 
house with one fixed and one revolv- 
ing light. At Errislannin is the 
ruin of an old ch. The great lion 
of Clifden is Clifden Castle, formerly 
the residence of the D'Arcy family, 
and now of that of Eyre. Its situa- 
tion is matchless, embosomed in 
woods overlooking the bay and oppo- 
site coast of Kusheen, beyond which 
stretches the blue Atlantic. At a 
distance, too, the towers look well, 
but the effect is spoilt by a nearer 
inspection. It is, moreover, badly 
and untidily kept. From the castle 
there is a charming walk down to 
the shore, and along the bay to 
Clifden, passing a Mission House 
and the villa of Lakeeragh. But 
little trade is carried on, save in fish. 
Enormous quantities of lobsters are 
annually sent away, so much so that 
there is great difficulty in procuring 
one in Clifden. A good deal of kelp 
is manufactured on the coast, and sent 
to Glasgow by Mr. Hart, who has a 
storehouse near Bunowen. The price 
varies from 21. 2s. 6cZ. to 21. 15s. per 
ton. The mouth of the harbour is 
almost closed by a reef of rocks, ren- 
dering the approach exceedingly 
dangerous to vess 

( 'onveyanees. — To Oughterardeand 
Galway, a car twice a day. 

Distances. — Galway, 47 m. ; Ongh- 
terarde, 31 ; Recess, 13J ; Round- 
stone, 11 ; Bunowen, 8 ; Streams- 
town, 3 : Kylemore, 13 ; Leenane, 

21 ; Errislannin, 5 ; Ballynakill, 6. 



Excursions. — 

1. Kylemore and Killaries. 

2. Bunowen. 

3. Roundstone. 

4. Twelve Pins. 

From Clifden the road runs N". 
over high ground, the ascent of 
which is rewarded by a charming 
view on the 1. of the bay or inlet 
of Streamstown, with the small 
island of Innishturk, and the larger 
one of Omey, at the entrance. 
On the S. side of the bay is the 
ruined ch. of Omey, and on the N". 
the castle of Doon— a fortress of the 
O' Flaherty s, built upon a precipice 
with a trench round it. 3 J m. 1. a 
road branches off to Claggin Bay. 
On the headland overlooking it is a 
Martello tower. The tourist will 
notice an increasing improvement in 
the appearance of land and houses 
all the way from Clifden. There is 
comparatively little waste bog, and 
it is evident that a very superior 
class of settlers have brought capital, 
industry, and patience to bear upon 
this hitherto neglected district. 

6 m. at Ballynakill the road sud- 
denly descends upon the bay and 
harbour of Ballynakill, a broad and 
beautiful fiord, which sends its 
arms in for a long distance and is 
sheltered on every side by hills. On 
the N. is the rocky mass of Rinvyle, 
rising almost directly from the shore, 
and on the E. the bay runs nearly 
to the foot of the outliers of Bimna- 
beola, or the Twelve Pins. 

Off Claggin Head, about 3 m. from 
the shore, is High Island, or Ard- 
Oilean, uninhabited and difficult of 
access from its rocky sides. There 
are some curious remains here, con- 
sisting of a square of about 20 yards, 
at the corners of which were erected 
small houses, with walls 4 ft. high, 
and domical roofs, the covering 
being formed of one big stone. There 
is also a ch. 12 ft. long and 10 wide, 
with a stone altar. Many carved 
and sculptured stones are scattered 
about, as well as other graves — 



1 LAND, 



Routi '22. — L< th rfrack — Kylema 






>bably of tl who were not in 
orders, The house of St Fechin, 
which an illustration is riven in 
P< trie's work, M is square in the inte- 
rior, and measures 9ft by 7 it. (Jin. 
in height The doorway La 2 ft, 4 in. 
le and 3 ft. 6 in. high. The mate- 
1 of this structure, which da; 
from the 7th cent, is of mica slate ; 
and though its external appearance 
very rude, it> interior is constructed 
with admirable art The doorway 
i. ia ■_! t*t. wide, and its hori- 
ital lintel is inscribed with a cross. 
Th< I'.. window, the only one in tin' 
building, micircular-hea led. and 
i- hut 1 t't. high and 6 in. wide. The 
chapel i- surrounded by a wall, allow- 
ing a ]•; of -i ft. bel en them, 
and from this a covered pass 

•nt 15 t't. long Leads t<> a cell, 

which was probably the abb 

hitation. There i- also a covered 

a llery, 24 ft. long and 

4 ft. ♦; in. high, the use of which it 

i- difficult i o conjecture." — V<-irie. 

•ni tli . and from statements 

tie by ' ^Flaherty, it was evidently 

an establishment tor Eremitical or 

rmit-monks. In addition to the 

interest of these ruins, the visitor, 

and he l>c fortunate enough to 

have a calm day, will obtain grand 

vie* • onemfl 

Immediately opposite Ballynakfll 

rbour is th< Large island oflniah- 

Lningj riderable popu- 

• d in fishing, and 

probably in a little potheen-distilli] 

On rock- 

. ;. . S< ted from it by the 

I; >iin La ti:«- smaller island 

-hark. At tin- end of Ballyna- 

kill bay are .a pn tty ch. and lod 

raham, Esq. 
:. /. nt, well- 

to-do little colony, established soi 
_o by a Mr. Ellis, a < v >u.d. 
who built .t vill nth all 

police-bar- 
or tic 
draini od plantit 

Of D 



Behind the village the beautiful 
mountain called Diamond Hill rig 

abruptly to the heighl of I 160 ft., 
forming one of the western groups 
v[' the Twelve Pins. 

The road soon enters the Lovely 
gl( n of Kyh mon . one of the gems of 
I tnnemara, though possessing a some- 
what melancholy character. On the 
\. the glen is bounded by Doaghrue 
(1717 ft.\ the rocky shoulders 
of which are covered with green 

rubs and underwood, giving it an 
I English character not often to he found 
in Iris a aery. On the S. are the 
Twelve Pins — Adergoole 1577 it. , 
Bj nbrack (1922 . Muchanaght 
2155 . and Benbarron (2395 , rising 
one over the other in grand groups. 
Indeed, from no place can the Bun- 
uabeola chain b - en to greater 
advantage than from Kylemore, as 
in all the southern view- >m-\i a 
vast amount of bog and flat coast 
intervenes that their noble height is 

3t, while here they gain from com- 
parison with other mountains. 

Before arriving at the Lough, 
which reposes placidly at the foot 
of the hills, we pass Adragoole, a 
well-planted settlement reclaimed 
from the barren wild by T. East- 
wood, Esq. 

The drive to the Hotel, which is 
tic- X. bank, La exquisite, the 
road being carried under huge mass* 
of rock, glittering in the sunlighl with 

I- - of d aid ft stooned with 

<•]•«■- pera and \\\) Hi re is a 
comfortable inn, until lately kept bv 

clergyman of the name of I >uncan 
— capita] quarters tor fishermen and 
mountain-climbei 

/.'. i i r tons. — 

1 . Leenam . 

'1. Lough Inairh. 

8 dro.de and [*mgh I 

I' >m h< road on rt 

of th mpleted in tic- fami' 

r by the I'- »ai 1 of Works ru 
to I - E. t.. 1 l gh. 

L5 m _ the little ' >w< oduff 

• r, ^. limpse to the 1. 



190 



Route 22. — CI if den to Sligo. 



Ireland. 



of Lough Fee, a long sheet of water 
encircled on every side by lofty hills 
(on the S. 197o ft.), save where the 
stream emerges into the sea near the 
entrance to the Killary. 

A road runs oft* to its N. bank, 
iding to the very pretty residence 
of Sir W. R. Wilde, who lias pitched 
his solitary tent in one of the finest 
of Connemara glens ; and from 
thence to Salrock, which the tourist 
had better visit from Leenane. 

Passing over a dreary extent of 
moor, the next rise of the hill 
brings us directly in front of the 
Killary (anc. Caolshaile-luadh) — 
that wonderful fiord, which has 
scarce any parallel in the British 
Isles, and more resembles the coast 
scenery in Norway. It is an arm 
of the Atlantic, running inland to 
the very heart of the moun- 
tains for a distance of some 9 m. 
On each side steep and pre- 
cipitous mountains descend to the 
water's edge, on the S. leaving barely 
room for the road. The mountain- 
scenery on the N. of the fiord is 
incomparably the finest, the enor- 
mous walls of Muilrea, the Giant 
of the West, and Bengorm, rising 
abruptly to the heights of 2688 
and 2303 ft., while the excessive still- 
ness of the land-locked water, in 
which the shadows of the hills are 
clearly reflected, make it difficult for 
the tourist to believe that it is the 
actual ocean which he beholds. 

" A haven, beneath whose translucent floor 
The tremulous stars sparkled unfathom- 
ably, 
And around which the solid vapours hoar, 
Based on the level waters, to the sky 



Lifted their dreadful crags." 



Shelley. 



A short drive along the S. bank 
brings him to 21 m. Leenane, a soli- 
tary and welcome little hotel at 
the very edge of the water, not far 
from the head of the fiord, with 
lofty hills springing directly from 
the rear of the house, and a noble 
expanse of water in front. Many 



beautiful excursions can be made 
from hence : — 

1. To Lough Fee, and thence to 
Salrock, 8 m. The best way is to take 
a boat from Leenane, and row the 
whole length of the Killary, turn- 
ing abruptly round at the entrance, 
and then going up the Little Kil- 
lary, at the head of which is Sal- 
rock, the exquisitely situated resi- 
dence of the late Gen. Thompson. A 
more fairy-like picture can scarcely 
be conceived than is presented from 
the Pass of Salrock, looking over the 
Killary and the broad expanse of 
the Atlantic, dotted with occasional 
islands— the largest of which, Inish- 
turk, lies some 11 m. out. The 
Pass of Salrock is said to have been 
formed by the struggles of St. Koc, 
who, having been chained by the 
Devil when he was asleep, made his 
way with an immense deal of fric- 
tion through the mountain. From 
Salrock the visitor— having feasted 
his eyes with the beauties around — 
should return by a car sent by ap- 
pointment from Leenane through 
the wild glen of Lough Fee. The 
whole of the mountains abound in 
rare and beautiful ferns and heaths, 
amongst which the white heath and 
Menzesia polyfolia are conspicuous. 

8 m. beyond Salrock is Rinvyle 
House, the seat of the Blake family, 
finely placed on the edge of a lofty 
series of cliff- rocks. The ancient 
castle of the Brakes — a weather- 
beaten, massive tower — is about 1J 
m. further on. The best way of 
visiting Rinvyle will be by "water. 

2. ToMaume, 9 m. This is essen- 
tially a mountain-road, following 
the course of the glens that inter- 
vene between the Mamturk and 
Lugnabricka Mountains. Midway 
the tourist passes a very pretty water- 
fall, and the solitary graveyard of the 
Joyce sept — fit burial-place for a 
race of hill-giants. Thence we attain 
the watershed and descend the vol- 
ley of the Bealnabrack river to 
Maume (Rte. 21 . 



LND. 



Route 22. — Delphi — Westiport. 



191 



Id addition to th< rursions, the 

angler will find pit nty of sport in the 

■ f the Errive and in Lough 
. which lies in the moun- 

en I a enane and Lough 

The geologist will find work 

gh in thi stant variety of 

hills, which contain many minerals. 

■ at the back of the hotel, 
icli i> n< arly 1800 ft., contains * \- 

Henl sp< cim c and mica. 

[ , ',////. a boal must be 

to the Little harbour of Bundor- 
are a small pier 
and a few i From thence 

tin- course of a mountain-stream is 
I up a narrow s _ . bound< d 
on eith r Bide by Muilrea 26S8 ft. 
; Bei gorm 2303 two of the 
3 in the whole 
land. U m., at the 
op] the littl- Fin Lough, 

arc the woods and house of Del- 
phi, fora* riy belonging i<> the Mar- 

qi; . and UOW to the lion. 

]). Plunket It may he safely said 

mnemara contained no 

other b( . Delphi alone would 

journey from Lon- 

>f the mountain- 

1 m. higher up i> tiough 

I I ; of w.o r, from the 

ks the hills 

tw 2 ' and 3000 ft. \\ the 8. 

end is pt. 

II ,, who i.^ the owner of an 

in proper 
-Hesse- nd 

ie innumeral From 

hence I id turns I i rt up the 

nummei 

tdilal. ny 

in; and most un- 

itain-slo] 'he 

into Gl( - 

la 

A little furl 

1 ."» : . i . I 

'id 1 by all 



which is very much finer than tin' 
usual one, though it must beconfi sse I 

that the holes in the road require 
all the driver's attention and care.] 

From Leenane the road winds 
round tin- head of the Hillary, at 

the base of a lofty hill which rejoices 
in the name of the Devil's Mother. 
At Ashlee are the residence of 

the Bon. 1>. Plunket, and a pretty 
Protestant ch. The Errive, whi 
stream we are now following, ifl 
an impetuous salmon-river, rising, 
under the name of the Owenmo 

Big river , in the chain of hills in- 
tervening betweea Lough Doo and 
W» stport, where it is < I by the 

road just menrione 1. 

28J muErrive Bridge, was the scene 
of a melancholy accident in 1860, 
when, the bridge having been carried 
away in a flood, an unfortunate hi 
was drowned in attempting to ford 
the stream in her car. As the road 
ascends the valley the vegetation 1 
conies more scanty and the moorland 
more extensive. Crossing the water- 
shed, we descend the valley of the 
Owen-wee, and gain glorious views of 
the magical Clew Hay, which, if a en 
at suna t, forms, with its hundred 
islands, one of the most exquisite 
landscap sible. 

41 m. Westpori (Rte.21 [Hotel: 
Imperial is f the very pretti* 

. Qg tn :i it is possible -it in 

-,\ long summer's day, beauty 

[g en] I being approach) 

for » \. ral miles each way through 
a high and rather bleak country. It 
[a situated in ;> hollow, embosomed 
on every side in gi ind woods, 

and watered by a small stream, which, 
after | through th tre of 

tin- town as both 

n~« ful and ornamental, in Lord 
Sligo's Park, finds its level in ( H< 
Bay, which, with all i 

a iihin b mile of the pL 
^Y main 

;. with the stream in tic middle, 

side, 
lime- 



192 



Route 22. — Clifden to Sligo. 



Ireland. 



trees, which give it somewhat the ] 
appearance of a Spanish Alameda. 
The foreign aspect is still further 
increased by the numbers of the 
Irish lasses, who, with petticoats 
tucked up, and bare legs, are con- 
stantly washing, wringing and beat- 
ing the clothes at the water-side, to 
an ad libitum accompaniment of 
jokes and el latter. The town itself 
presents no object of interest save 
a statue to George Glendenning, a 
banker of Westport who managed to 
enrich himself and his native town, 
out of which he had never put foot 
during his long life. " ' He was a 
rich marn of this place,' replied the 
lad, ' and so they made hum a 
startu.' "—Sir F. Head. The great 
charm of Westport is the park of the 
Marquis of Sligo, the gates of which 
are at the end of the street, and are 
ever open to all classes to wander 
about at their will and pleasure. In 
the centre of the park is the mansion, 
a handsome square building on a 
balustrated terrace, from the W. side 
of which is a delicious view of Clew 
Bay. A very pretty Protestant ch., 
used by the Westport inhabitants, 
stands embowered amongst the 
woods. Passing through the park we 
arrive at the port, which is per- 
fect in all the arrangements, save, 
alas ! the requisite of commerce. 
" There was a long, handsome pier 
(which no doubt remains at this 
present minute), and one solitary 
cutter alongside of it, which may or 
may not be there now. As for the 
warehouses, they are enormous, and 
might accommodate, I should think, 
not only the trade of Westport, but 
of Manchester too. There are huge 
streets of these houses, 10 stories 
high, with cranes, owners' houses, &c, 
marked Wine Stores, Flour Stores, 
Ponded Tobacco Warehouses, and so 
forth; dismal mausoleums as vast as 
pyramids— places where the dead 
trade of Westport lies buried." — - 
Thackeray. It is to be hoped, how- 
er, that the extension of the rly. 



from Athlone will be the signal for 
a renewal of bustle and trade, as 
Westport undoubtedly possesses 
many natural advantages over other 
ports. (Pop. 3819.) 

Conveyances, — Rail to Castlebar, 
Athlone, and Dublin ; car to Sligo 
daily, to Gal way daily through Bat 
Unrobe, to Athenry, to Newport, to 
Tuam. 

Distances. — Newport, 8 m. ; Achill 
Sound, 27; Murrisk, 6 ; Croagh Patrick, 
8 ; Louisburgh, 12J; Glare Island,16; 
Clifden, 41 ; Leenane, 20 ; Castlebar, 
11 ; Pontoon Bridge, 22 ; Ballina, 33 ; 
Partry, 12 ; Ballintober, 10 ; Augha- 
gower, 4 ; Ayle, 5 ; Ballinrobe, 19. 

Westport is a central point for 
many excursions — 

1. To Leenane, Lough Doo, and 
Delphi. 

2. To Aughagower Round Tower, 
and Ballintobber Abbey (Rte. 21). 

3. To Croagh Patrick and Murrisk 
Abbey. 

['The road runs through the park 
and the port, emerging close on 
the S. side of Clew Bay, one of 
the most extraordinary and lovely 
of Irish islets. " The conical moun- 
tain on the 1. is Croagh Patrick, or 
the Reek ; it is clothed in the most 
magnificent violet colour, and a 
couple of round clouds were ex- 
ploding as it were from the summit, 
that part of them towards the sea 
lighted up with the most delicate 
gold and rose colour. In the centre 
is the Clare Island, of which the 
edges, were bright cobalt, while the 
middle was lighted up with a brilliant 
scarlet tinge. The islands in the 
bay looked like so many dolphins 
basking there." — Thackeray. The 
bay forms a noble expanse of shel- 
tered water about 15 m. in length ; the 
entrance being partially protected by 
the lofty cliffs of Clare Island, while 
the eastern extremity is studded with 
immense numbers of islands which, 
while they add to the picturesque 
beauty of the scene, add also to the 
difficulty of approach to the harbour. 



] 1LANP. 



B wU 22.— Murrisk— The Reek, 






iese islands and channels are de- 
cided by a singular natural break- 
water extending from Westport to 
the shore under the Reek. "This 
bar is a breakwater \\ m. Long, 
i which are situated the islands 
of Doreinch 31<»re and Doreinch 
Beg. [1 dopes Beaward, in some 
plac< -. l in 30, and i^ formed of 
boulders. Though natural, it i> pev- 
haps one of the most remarkable 
hydraulic works that exisi in Europe; 
its mass b< ; gn ater than thai of the 
eakwater at Plymouth or thai of 
Lerboure:." — Bald, There arc 6 na- 
vigable openings, the principal of 
which is marked by a lighthou 
ed by the Marquis <»t' Sligo. 
ibly do hay in tin- kingdom 
is surrounded by such magnifi- 
nt rane - of mountains. On the 
9 the rugged declivities of the Keck 
run down almost t<» the water's 
while further seaward the 
ist i- overhung, though ;it a greater 
distance, by Muilrea, Benbury, and 
• mountains of the Murrisk dis- 
trict On the N. are the wild and 
;v ranges of the Nephin 1>< 
Qng in the precipii - >f Slieve 
M i >ghan in Achill Island. 

The precipitous cliffc of Clare Island 
form a fittii _ » award termina- 
tion t<> the beauties >>\ this won- 

rful bay. The road passes 1 
ral i' ts to *"> in. Murrisk, 

an anci< d1 abbey ;it Hie foot of 
Croagh Patrick, founded by the 
i > Mall. ; - r Augustinian friars, 
is of i it extent, being single- 

Bled, bul - a beautiful Dec, ES. 
window <»t'o h'_ ts, On the N". ofl 

1 is .i vaulted room, entered 

tin pointed doorway. The j 

ice, partially blocked up, is 

pointed ray. In the 

ior of the eh. is the tomb of 

the « » M "• s, pari i toss 

the Crucifixion, and 

ollectioD «»t" the bigg* s1 thigh- 

tes thai it i- po»ilili- to con- 

I -in this }'<»int thi nt 

I; i 

[i 



always commenced. This extraordi- 
nary mountain rises with great abrupt- 
ness for a height of 2510 ft., termi- 
nating in what is apparently a point, 
though there is really a small platform 
of about i an acre on the summit. 
On the s. side is a very steep pre- 
cipice, knew ii as Lug na Narrib, on 
the edge of which " St Patrick stood 

bell in hand, and every time he 
ran-- ii he flung it away from him. 
and it. instead of plunging down the 
Lug, was brought luck to his hand 
by ministering spirits; and every 
time it thus hastily was rung, thou- 
sands of toads, adders, and noisome 
things, wenl down, tumbling neck 

and heels one alter the oilier." — 

Otway. As may be imagined from 
its height and it> isolation, the Reek 
affords most splendid panoramas of 
the W. of Ireland, extending north- 
wards over Murrisk, Bally croy, Achill, 
Erris, even to Slieve League on the 
coast of Donegal, and southward 
to the Leenane district and the VI 
Pins; but to Irish minds, the moun- 
tain has a tar higher interest, it 
being a sacred hill, devoted to pat- 
terns, on which occasion- the numbers 
of "voteens"' or pilgrims would he 
incredible to a stranger. Many hun- 
dreds may on these occasions be 
n ascending the hill, stopping at 
the different stations to say their 
paters, and in some places to go 
round on their knees. This pari of 
the performance is generally reserved 
for the Bummit of the mount. .in. the 
Long station being 400 yards in cir- 
cumference, and around this the de- 
votees have tO gO 15 lilnes, ftlsO on 

tlnir knees, which before the termi- 
nation are in a Btate of laceration. 
A very Important adjunct to the 
whole affair is the whisky tent, a 
melancholy and suggestive feature of 
the occasion which requires such an 
citemenl Extraordina] >re 

the scenes of fri>h Life and characfc i 

to he witm — . d sit the>e patterns, the 

tourist will probably enjoy his visit 
to Croagh Patrick Ear better in soli- 



104 



Haute 22. — CUfden to Sligo. 



Ireland. 



tude and apart from these religious 
saturnalia. The botanist will find 
growing on this mountain Poa al- 
pina, Melampyrum pratense, Pin- 
guieula lusitanica, Saxifraga serra- 
tifolia. 

At the foot of the westerly ex- 
tension of hill, of which the Reek 
is the central cone, is Louisburgh, 
a large village with a fine view over 
Clare Island.] 

4. To Newport and Achill. The 
road to Newport runs for the greater 
part of the distance within view of 
the Clew Bay, so as effectually to 
prevent any monotony. On the way 
the little river Rossow is crossed by 
a bridge of 2 arches, beneath one 
of which a whole family long kept 
house and home. 

8 m. Newport {Hotel: Carr's), a 
small seaport at the mouth of the 
Newport river, looking better at a 
distance than is warranted by a 
nearer inspection. The N. bank of 
the river is embellished by the re- 
sidence of Sir Richard O'Donnell, 
adding considerably to the beauty 
of the town. There is a good pier, 
where vessels of 200 tons can un- 
load, but the trade of the port is very 
small. 

Distances. — Castlebar, 11 J m. ; 
Burrishoole, 2. 

The road from Newport to Mol- 
renny is nearly a straight line for 
about 10 m., and depends for its 
attractions very much on the wea- 
ther that accompanies the tourist. 
If it be clear, there is a magnificent 
view seawards over the bay and 
the opposite mountains of Murrisk, 
while on the rt. inland is the equally 
fine range of the Nephin Beg hills, 
which run in a curving direction from 
N.E. to W. with remarkably bold 
outlines. The principal heights that 
are seen between Newport and the 
Sound are Buckoogh 1922 ft., Slieve 
Turk 1322, Nepliiu Beg 2012, Cush- 
camcurragh 2202, Knocknatintree 
1 r,4G f and Knock lettaragh 1509. The 
streams issuing from these hills, and 



running into Clew Bay, are of no 
great importance, as the ascent is so 
immediate, but on the N. and W. 
slopes they have a longer course to 
Blacksod Bay, and are of considerably 
larger volume. 

10 m. Burrishoole, at the entry 
of the Burrishoole river, gives its 
name to the whole district from 
Newport to Achill. Here are remains 
of a large monastery and eh. founded 
for Dominicans by Richard Bonrke, 
Lord Mac William Oughter. It was 
a cruciform building, with a central 
slender tower, and has some good 
pointed arches, the whole building 
being of the 15th cent. Overlook- 
ing an arm of the sea is Carrig- 
hooley Castle, a square plain tower, 
formerly one of the fortresses of 
Grace O'Mealey, or Grana Uaile, the 
mountain Queen of the West, who 
lorded it over Mayo and the islands 
with a prompt fierce sway, that even 
in those days of lawlessness and rude- 
ness commanded universal fear and 
respect. On the coast there are 
some singular caverns, believed to 
have been druidical chambers. To 
the rt. of the road, running up into 
the heart of the hills, is Lough Fe- 
oogh, the head of which lies between 
Buckoogh and Slieve Turk; and on its 
bank is the ruin of an iron-smelting 
furnace. At 18 m. Molrenny, a small 
" public " on the roadside overlooks 
a marvellously beautiful landscape. 
Very soon the road divides [on 
the rt. winding round the base of 
Knocknatintree and opening out on a 
landlocked inlet from Blacksod Bay. 
At the mouth of the Owenavrea river 
there is a 2nd division, the one on the 
1. taking a course near Armagh Sound 
and Tullaghan Bay to Cregganroe 
and Croy Lodge, both cultivated 
oases in this desert of the far West, 
which for untamed wildness sur- 
passes anything in the kingdom, but 
is an Utopia for sportsmen ac- 
cording to the author of ' Wild 
Sports of the West.' The district 
of Ballycroy embraces all the Ne- 



Ireland. 



Boute 22.— Achill 



195 



pliin r>. g range from Burrishoole to 
ris, and contains in this enormous 
an nvc halt* a dozen inhabited 

houses, "Along the seashore there 
ae cultivation; bul inland. town- 
lees, roadless, treeless, one wide waste 
of bog covers all. But it is not to 
be supposed this is like the greal Hat 
flow bogs in the centre of the island, 
the Bog of Allen. No; the 
Erris, as well as those of 
Connemara, covers mountains, bills, 
champaigns, and vales : nature's 
universal brown vesture, it fits all; 
and that is what makes the recla- 
mation of these wastes hopeful"— 
,. < >n the Beashore below 
^anroe is Duna Castle, an 
ancient stronghold of Gi O'M 
le\ a ma Uaile . It is a mas- 

sif i tare tower, with wonderfully 
oasonry, though it could not 
wil d the 1. :' a large fire 

which had been accidentally kindled, 
using the ruin to become ten 
- more a ruin. The main road, 
that parted company at the Owen- 
. runs more inland through a 
monotonous district to Derrycorrib, 
where it joins the route to Belmullet 
Bte. L9)J 
The route to Achill now enters 
peninsula of Curraun, which, by 
the Little inlel from Blacksod Bay 
just mentioned, is very marly made 
an island The whole of it is 
cupied by the mountain of Knock- 
igh 1509 ft., and the road winds 
uid the northern side to Achill 
L a narrow .-trait of about \ m.. 
w] unmu - between Clew 

and Blacl . affording a mosl 

valuable cut for \. —I- c astu g ap 
down, thai would otherwise have 
md the dang< rous cliffs of ( Iro- 
and 81i< v< more in Achill On 
tblishment for 
fish and provisions, and 
on ti. I iiill .- ,v- nient 

little md inn, where the 

\ small 

rry. The 

ler m )i>\ that in 



all probability the inn at the Sound 

will he the only place where he can 

procure a conveyance, and the only 

place but one where he can put 
up: this other being at the Settle- 
ment at Doogurth; so that he must 
make his arrangements accordingly, 
It* he makes a hasty run over the 
island, he had better keep the car 
at the Saltpans to take him back 
t«> Westport; or he may possibly 
catch one of the coasting hook - 
running down the Sound from Bel- 
mullet, which, if the wind he (air, will 
land him at Westport in the course of 
:: or 4 hours, "The Island of Achill 
(Pop. 577'i , the largest oft' tne Irish 
coast, is In* m. in Length and 7 in 
breadth, forming a Bhore-line about 
80 m. in circumference, and com- 
prising 46,000 acres. The western 
side is mostly a precipitous range of 
cliffs, but the eastern is in every 
part well sheltered. Achill Head, a 
hold promontory, is situated on the 
SAY. extremity of the island, and at 
the X. end is Saddle Head, at the 
entrance of Blacksod Bay. Between 
this and the smaller island of Achill 
Beg is a channel called Achill Sole, 
where vessels drawing 10 or 12 ft. 
of water may rest in safety in all 
weathers. A very powerful tide runs 
in the Sound at the northern entrance 

called the Ball's Month.'* — LeWtS. 

The general aspect of the island 
i- one unvaried mass of dark hea- 
ther, covering the broad undulating 
moors that stretch from the high 
ranges at the W. end of the district A 
main road traverses the island, pass- 
ing 1. the residence of W. Pike, Esq., 
wh ardens, reclaimed from the 

bare mountain, are worth a visit. 
A little further on i- Bunahun 
the residence of the Eft v •'. Hem 
the Roman ( i<- pri< st, occupyii 

;i position that commands the mosi 
magnificent coast and mountain vien 
- over B dlycroy, Blacksod 

Bay, I • V pihn me. !id the 

high grounds of Currauu The road 

a gains the bigh< -i h m 1. and t. 

K 2 



196 



I? mte 22. — CJifden to Sligo* 



Ireland. 



tourist is charmed with an equally 
fine view westward of the mighty 
mass of Slievemore, the cloud-capped 
summit of Croghan, and to the S. 
the precipitous ridges of Minnaun. 
On rt. a road runs for about 3 m. to 
the N. coast, where, sheltered under 
the steep rocks of Slievemore, is the 
Protestant colony of Dooinirth, com- 
monlv known as the Settlement, 10 m. 
from the sound. It is a cheerful- 
looking square of plain white houses, 
in the centre of which stand the eh. 
and the clergyman's residence. In 
the square are an inn ( not of the best), 
residences for the various officials, a 
printing establishment, 3 schools, an 
orphan home, and dispensary. This 
missionary establishment was set on 
foot by the Rev. E. Nangle, to 
whose self-denial and labours many 
have borne testimony, as also to his 
uncompromising battles with the 
Roman Catholics ; as carried on in 
the 'Achill Herald,' some may 
think a little too warmly. It is 
not the province of a Handbook to 
enter into religious discussions, but 
it may not be out of place to warn 
every tourist in the west of Ireland 
that he must be prepared for ex- 
treme statements, whether from Pro- 
testants or Roman Catholics, and for 
a lack of religious charity which each 
party would do well to discard. The 
ascent of Slievemore which overhangs 
the colony at a height of 2217 ft., may 
be undertaken here, but if the tourist 
wishes to see Croghan, he had better 
reserve himself. Slievemore is an ex- 
traordinary cone of quartzose rocks 
rising abruptly from the sea, and, with 
its dark rifted sides occasionally re- 
lieved by shining masses of mica, 
presents a study for the painter at 
once grand and remarkable, espe- 
cially at sunset, when its apex 
is often encircled by rose-coloured 
clouds. Proceeding onwards, we come 
to the village of Keel, a singular col- 
lection of wigwams peculiar to Achill. 
There is a beautiful strand here, 
bounded on the E. by the cliffs of 



Minnaun 1530 ft. ; a path runs along 
the cliffs to Dooega, another Achill 
village, at an altitude and of a cha- 
racter sufficient to try the nervous 
climber. The little heaps of yellow- 
red earth all around are coloured 
with ochre, which is dug out with 
the bog iron ore in considerable 
quantities in this neighbourhood. 
We next come to Dooega, and 
further on to Keem, 14 m. from 
the Sound, both miserable hamlets 
of round houses built without gable- 
ends. It would seem that the abori- 
gines of the island still hold their 
court here. Towering above Keem 
is the stupendous mass of Slieve 
Croghan, which, together with the 
cliffs of Mohir in Co. Clare and 
Slieve League in Donegal, is con- 
sidered the finest cliff scenery in 
Great Britain. 

The Croghan, 2222 ft. in height, 
is a long range of mountain run- 
ning along the N.W. coast of 
Achill, and cutting off the promon- 
tory of Saddle Head, which is to a 
certain extent an offshoot from it. 
But its grand and peculiar feature 
is that at the very highest point it 
would seem as if the rest of the 
mountain had been suddenly cut 
I away, leaving a vast and tremendous 
j precipice descending down to the 
water for nearly 1950 ft. " Here we 
came upon a precipice nearly 2000 ft. 
high that went down almost plumb ; 
and then there was an inclined plane 
covered with the debris of the upper 
stratifications ; and then again, 200 
yards further on rt., there were cliffs 
about 300 ft. high, against which the 
waves washed. Here we sat, the 
cloud just festooning, as it were, a 
raised-up curtain over our heads, and 
all below was serene ; and from the 
lowest edges of the precipice at this 
point there extended a pretty little 
vale in winch was a tarn, so clear 
that it might have been taken for a 
mermaid's looking-glass." — C. O. 

The view seawards is of course 
boundless, the nearest land being 



Ireland. 



Buutr 1-2.— Clan- Island. 



197 



America, unless we believe in the 
enchanted land of 1 1 y Brisail p. 170 , 
in which the dwellers on the W. 
- have such a belief Looking 
small isolated rock i)\' the 
Billii -.and northwards towards Mul- 
let arc numerous islands, of which 
■ principal arc Inishkeen&nd Inish- 
re, according to - >me, the 
adare subi< cl tosuch extraordinary 
i ing influences, thai their 
and their I row as in Life, 

•■ - i that their i idants to the 

u ration can come, and with 
re pare the one and clip the 
• :"— ' 

qaod i 

i 

■ 

minum nulla 

Win. O'KtUy. 

V - oul are the Black Bocks, 
which i- a lighthoui 
[( Mi the return, before r ring 
Hi . the traveller may div< i 

S " the island, where at Kil- 

e wat' r's edge, is 

re tower, formerly one 

i - j. From 

\Mt may be paid to the 

I Mm- ga, lyi 

Minnaun ; or 

■ 

A ill 
ble 
Within ' 

ble in 

, ' 'in 

le suppli 

i;i..t' rial 

in the 

I Dhu ] 

i l I i 

by the br 

at \ in. in 

v 



abbey founded for Carmelite tVir 

in 1224. It lias a rather singular 
window of '2 Lights, trefoil-headed, 
with sculptured spandrils. For man) 
years the .skull of ( trace ( >'Mall< \ 
was shown here, decorated with rib- 
bons. The castle of this Queen of 
the [sles is a square massive tow< r 
similar to thai at Duna. Clare 
I>lan<l was the home and head- 
quarters of this Amazon, who lived in 
the r< ign of Elizabeth, to whom Bhe 
once paid a visit. So far, bowev< r, 
from paying homage to the queen, 
Grace O'Malley conducted herself 
in so rude a manner as fairly to uon- 
l'lu> her Majesty, who offered t" 
make her visitor a count a — an 
honour declined by Grana (Jail< 
who in formed the queen thai -he con- 
sidered herself equal to h r M y 
in every resp ct. 1 1< r first husband 
was ( > Flaherty, Prince of Conne- 
mara, and the owner of the castle in 
Lough Corrib, which, being nearly 
losl to the Joyce- through him, wi 
ed by Grana's intrepidity, and - i 
quired the name of the Hei 
< stle p. 184). Her second husband 
was William Bourke McWilliam 
( )ught< r. " The marriage was to 
br one year, and if at the end 
of that period either said to the other 
• I dismiss you,' the union was dis- 
solved It id that during that 
y. ;.r ( Irana took care to pu1 her 
<'\\ n - into garrison in all 
McWilliam tward castles I 

were v iluable t'» her. and then one 

fine day, as the Lord of Mayo v\ 

coming up to tl.< le of I 

■'• spied him, and ei i, .1 
I the dissoh in rds, • I di 

a - in- l. ives W< stporl i 
ing for Sligo, though the 

I by ra 

With tic of distant 

N phin 
the uiiint- 

ihill S j . 

Pari .1. I 
it 



J 93 



Route 22. — Clifden to Sligo. 



Ireland. 



52 in. Casttebar (Hotels: Daly's; 
Armstrong's), principally celebrated 
for its capture in 179S by the French, 
who had landed at Killala Bay (Ete. 
19) under Gen. Humbert, and made 
themselves masters of the town, 
which they evacuated on the ap- 
proach of the Marquis of Cornwallis. 
This little episode was known by 
the name of the Castlebar Races. It 
is a good-looking place, with all the 
buildings necessary to a small coun- 
try town, viz. gaol, court-house, and 
barracks, in addition to a shady and 
well-timbered mall, which is certainly 
a very pleasant adjunct. The Lawn 
is the residence of the Earl of Lucan, 
who has done more than any land- 
lord in the country to improve the 
agriculture of this district, of which 
he owns about 30,000 acres. The 
country around Castlebar is not 
inviting, although the mountains, 
some 5 m. to the N., rise to a con- 
siderable height, Knockmore to 1259 
ft., and Spinkanilen 1290 ft., being 
the only barriers that separate Castle- 
bar from the conical mass of Nephin 
2646 ft,, one of the most lofty and 
conspicuous hills in the W., which 
give such characteristic features to 
the scenery of Lough Conn. 

Conveyances. — To Athenry daily; 
to Westport ; to Ballina and Sligo ; 
by rail to Castlereagh and Athlone. 

Distances.— Pontoon Bridge, 11 m.; 
Newport, 11 J; Westport, 11 ; Bal- 
lina, 22 ; Crossmolina, 19; Balla, 8; 
Castlereagh, 37. 

[The antiquarian may pay a visit 
from Castlebar to Balla, a village 
about 8 m. to the S.E. on the road 
to Hollymount. Here is a round 
tower about 50 ft. in height, and the 
remains of a ch. built by St. Mochun 
in the 7th cent. He also caused 2 
wells to be formed, which he enclosed 
with walls, from whence the town 
took its name : " Unde oppidum no- 
vum nomen Balla et etiam Mochun 
cognomen Ballensis accepit." 

In the neighbourhood of Balla are 
Attavalley (Sir R. Blosse, Bt.), and 



Broomhill. A little to the S. is the 
district known as the Plains of 
Mayo, and in the village of the same 
name are slight ruins of an abbe3 r , 
which was the locale of an uni- 
versity very celebrated in the 7th 
cent., and founded by St. Colman, 
who for that purpose resigned his cell 
of Lindisfarne in Northumberland. 
There are one or two ancient fortified 
mansions in the neighbourhood.] 

Following up the Castlebar river, 
is 56 m. Turlough, in which parish is 
another round tower. The bleak and 
boggy scenery begins to improve, 
especially as we near the long ranges 
of the Croaghmoyle Hills and the 
Loughs Conn and Cullen at Pontoon 
Bridge. The former is a very fine 
sheet of water 15 m. long, inter- 
spersed with beautiful islands, and 
overhung by mountains, especially on 
the W. bank, which is almost entirely 
occupied by the mighty mass of Ne- 
phin. Lough Cullen is sometimes 
called Lower Lough Conn, and is 
connected by a short stream, across 
which the road is carried by a 
bold single-arched bridge known as 
the Pontoon. The view looking up 
and down from this bridge is of a 
very remarkable and beautiful cha- 
racter. " An extraordinary phe- 
nomenon is visible here in the alter- 
nate ebbing and flowing of these 
lakes ; the water is sometimes seen 
rushing with great force through the 
channel into Lough Cullen, while at 
others it runs with equal force into 
Lough Conn. The shores of both 
lakes being composed in many places 
of a fine red sand, the line of high 
water mark can be distinctly traced 
several miles above the water, and 
then in the space of an hour it rises 
to the higher level in one lake, while 
it is low in the other." — Lewis. An 
hotel was built on the Castlebar 
side of the Pontoon by Lord Bing- 
ham, but it is now shut up. Near 
the bridge is a singular rocking- 
stone close to the lake. 

[A road branches off along the 



Irelas , 



Route 23.— Dublin to Wexford. 






W. ride of the lough under Nephin 

fche little town of 

( a nolina, situated on the line 
of road between Ballina and Ends. 
Previous to reaching it. we pass on 
rt. the peninsula of Errew,on which, 
overlooking the wain-, are remains 
of an abbey with a good E. window. 
The Pool runs through Orossmolina, 
and on it> banks is the modernised 
mansion of Dee] Castle, occupying 
the edl I an ancient fortress. 

& -To Ballina : to Ban- 

r and Belmullet; the road to the 
latt. r places being carried over one 
of the wildest hill commons that 
even the dreary barony of Tyrawley 
can show.] 

I ssing the Pontoon Bridge rt. 

ft road to Foxford Rte. 19). From 
hence we skirt the S.E. corner of the 
lake, obtaining magnificent mountain 
views of X' phin, on which, by the 
way. the botanist will find Pinguicnla 
lusitanica. Boon approaching the 
valley of tin- Moy, we arrive at 

74 m. Ballina H<>t<U: Flynn's; Im- 
perial . together with the northern 
coast of Killala and Downpatrick, 
I in Rte. 19. 

The road now rims over mo- 
notonous high ground for many 
mi Tossing the Easky river, a 

stream, the mountain 

Hey <>f which is strewn with 

anite boulders, t" 89 m. Dromore, 
a very pretty village <>n the wooded 
I a rushing im that i 

Slieve ( Jamph Moun- 

1 ' B, at the foot of which the r« >ad 

rm irly the whole way to Rally- 
dare. They are of picturesque 
outline and dderable height, 

1 600 ft. Woodhill is the 
: I. .1 >n< s, Esq. ; and > 
w of — .' , Esq. 
ddenly I t bursts upon the 

and, with i ionaJ inter- 
rupt' • ure in 
land- all tin- w Sligo. 
I ■ ■ a the L.ifl Aug 
IT ind tli»- ruins of th<- old castle 
Ardnaglasc 1 of the 



Bf'Swynea This parish of >'/.■/' i 
the ch. of which stands prettily 
amongst the trees, is said to have 

been at one time so important ftS to 
have contained 7 churches. 

The beautiful woods of Tanrego 
W. Knox. Esq,), and Dromore Oh., 
occupy the banks of Ballysadare 
Bay. which here forms a very charm- 
ing inlet, hounded on the WE. by 
the truncated cone of Knocknarea. 

106 m. Ballysadare [Rte. 18). 

110 m. Sligo Hotels: Imperial: 
Victoria; ;Btes. 8-18). 



ROUTE 23. 

FROM DUBLIN TO WEXFORD, TITnorGK 
WICKLOW, ARKLOW, AND ENNIS 
CORTHY. 

This route is performed by rail to 
Enniscorthy, and thence by coach. 
The Dublin, Wicklow, and Wexford 

line Was in 1856 united to that <>r 
the Dublin and Kingstown C >.. and 
although at present only extend- 
ing to Enniscorthy, a distance ol 
is intended to he carried on 
to Wexford. The tourist may take 
his chop eding by 2 rl 

! The K wn 

and Bray lin< in I' 

24. 



200 



Route 23. — Dublin to Wexford. 



Ireland. 



Quitting- the Harcourt-str. Stat., 
a plain, massive, Doric building, ap- 
proached by a flight of stops an<l a 
colonnade, we pass through the 
suburbs of Bathmines and Milltown, 
near which stat., 2 m., the Dodder, 
a bright active stream running from 
the Dublin mountains, is crossed; 
thence passing Windy Harbour and 
leaving on rt. Iiathfarnham, we arrive 
at, 3 m., Dundrum, another suburb 
much resorted to as a residence by 
the worthy citizens. To 1. of the stat. 
is Mount Aiiville, the seat of William 
Dargan, Esq., to whose active enter- 
prise and patriotism almost every 
portion of Ireland can bear testi- 
mony, although his greatest improve- 
ments have been effected in Bray 
and the county Wicklow generally. 
The house and grounds, with its con- 
servatory and look-out tower, are 
well worth seeing; the former con- 
tains statues of the Queen and Prince 
Consort, presented by her Majesty 
to Mr. Dargan after her visit. 

We now get near sight on the rt. 
of the beautiful ranges of mountains, 
and can appreciate the advantages 
which the Dublin inhabitant pos- 
sesses in being able to emerge almost 
out of the streets of a great town 
into the heart of bold hill scenery. 
Immediately on the rt. the most con- 
spicuous object is the Three Rock 
Mountain, 1763 ft. (on which the 
Pinguicula Lusitanica is to be found), 
the advanced guard of granite hills 
that extend from hence to Naas, in 
the co. of Kildare. It is worth while 
to make an excursion to the summit, 
leaving the rly. at 5| m., Stillorgan, 
from which point the distance is not 
great, though the collar-work is 
heavy. The views over Dublin Bay, 
the Hill of Howth, and the ranges 
inland, are at once exquisite and 
peculiar. At the foot of the hill, 
near Step-aside, is the ruined tower 
of Kilgobbin, which, whether from 
its name or otherwise, is popularly 
attributed to Gobhan Saer, and was 
supposed to have contained marvel- 



lous treasures at its foundations. The 
neighbourhood to the 1. of the rail- 
way is crowded with villas and resi- 
dences ; amongst which are Newtown 
Park and Stillorgan, the seat of H. 
Guinness, Esq. (the latter contain- 
ing some remarkably fine lime- 
trees) ; the same may be said of 
Foxrock and Cabinteety, a village 
situated at the western foot of Kil- 
liney Hill, which, with the high 
ground running down from Kings- 
town and Dalkey, intercepts the 
view of the sea for the present. The 
line has been traversing, between 
this last range and the Three Kocks, 
a hill valley sometimes called the 
Yale of Dundrum; and at Carrick- 
mines, 7 m., it enters that of Shan- 
gannagh, emerging on the coast 
at Bray. Near the stat. are some 
antiquarian remains ; on the rt. the 
ruins of the little ch. of Tully 
(said by Ledwich to have been built 
by the Ostmen), with a cross in the 
burying-ground ; and on the 1., in 
the grounds of Glendruid, is a 
cromlech, consisting of a large table- 
stone, 14 ft. long by 12 broad, sup- 
ported by 6 uprights. 

At the village of Kilternan, near 
Golden Ball, 2 m. to rt., is a second 
cromlech, the covering stone of 
which measures 23 ft. 6 in. by 17 in 
breadth, and also rests on 6 sup- 
porters. 

The little ch. of Kilternan pre- 
sents an ancient side-wall and 
W. gable, with a blocked square- 
headed doorway, the present one 
being on the S. side. " This altera- 
tion w r as made probably at the time 
of the re-erection of the E. end, the 
style of which indicates a period not 
earlier than the close of the 13th 
cent., about which time the custom 
of placing the doorway in the W. 
end appears to have ceased." — Wake- 
man. 

9:j m., at Shankhill stat., a junc- 
tion is formed with the Kingstown 
and Dalkey line, and a very pic- 
turesque view is obtained of Kil- 



Ireland. 



E mte 23. — Wicklow. 



201 



lihey Bill, its quarries, and its villas, 
with a broad expanse of sea od the 1., 
while on the rt. are &•< >h summits 
and peaks — the Two Rock Moun- 
tain, 1699 ft., on the W., and the 
Sugarloaf, 1659 ft., just appearing 
i the 8, Immediately to the rt. 
of the rly. is a rather low hill 
surmounted by a tower, serving 
both as a Bhot-tower and an outlet 
Bmoke ^l the lead-mines of 

Ballycorus. Behind this ridge is 
the Scalp, leading from Enniskerry 
Dublin, described in Rte, 24. 

The parish of Rathmichael, in 
which shankhill is situated, was once 
of considerable importance, and was 
claimed by the Vicars Choral of the 

thedral of Dunlin as their per- 

4'; There are Blight ruins of 

h. 

Ah 'in .1 m. "ii rt. of stat. is another 

cromlech in good preservation, to- 

2 ther with a few remains of Pucks 

ad a round tower, though 

of this Last only about '2 ft. exist. 

1 junction are Shan- 

_ oah Gastle Capt. Hayman), and 
of Kilturk ch. 
The line now runs along the coast 

12 m. Bray, described in Rte. 24. 
Hotels: Bi slin's, International, both 
first rat- : Quin's, good.) 

I ' r the remainder of the distance 
the rly. closely hugs the 
ly thai in many placi a 
it tunnels through projecting head- 
la] rri( d at gr< at heights 
3, and ravini 8, at the 
a of which the wav< s may be 
up with terrible fury. 
I 1 it is difficult to find any- 
wh< iv more rom ally placed or 

( rliding out 

. ;it Bray, we round Bi 

He* i by a suc< i of shoii tunnels, 

_■■ on the other side 

on rt. the 

I tittle . with the 

charmiu of Kilruddery Marl 

I I of the latt< r. 

,24. A little b hring 



at Greystones, IT m., we pass on tile 
rt. the ruins of the eh. and Castle of 
Etathdown. Greystones is a pleasant 
little bathing-place, aboul 1 J m. from 
Delgany, which, with the' Glen of 
the Downs, I. ad hotter he visited by 
road from I hay. 

Near Kilccole stat., '20 m.. are 
Ballygannon and the village of Kil- 
ccole 1 m. to rt., ami Woodstock 
House (Col. Tottenham . 22 m.. at 
Newcastle, the hills recede, and Leave 
a considerable tract of Level allu- 
via 1 ground. 25 j m. Killoughter 
stat. is :; m. from Ashford and the 
neighbourhood of the Devil's Glen. 

From tin's point it is q< arly :; m. to 
Wicklow (anc. Cill-mantain) Hotels: 
Railway; Fitzwilliam), which, with 
the quaint-looking town Btretching in 
a semicircle round the hay. tile tower 
of Black Castle, and the distanl pro- 
montories of Wicklow Mead, makes 
up a very charming Landscape. 

It is said to have derived its name 
from its position at the outlet of a long 
narrow creek, called the Murragh, 
that runs N. nearly as far as Kil- 
loughter, and receives the waters of 
the Vartry; also to have been called 
Wigginge Lough, " The Lake of 
Ships," from its being one <»f the 
earliest maritime stations of the Dam 
A castle was l» gun by Maurice Fitx- 

rald in the L2th, and finished l»y 
Fitzwilliam in the 1 1th cent. Por- 
tions <«f the towei* still remain on a 
promontory at the end of the town. 
The Hi. pose a copp r cupola and 
I Norm, doorway, that has been 
transplanted from an older building. 

The town itself is qoI particularly 
clean or inviting, bui there are some 
tine walks in the neighbourhood along 
the clifls to Bride's and Wicklow 
I [( ad-, oil each of which is a fixi d 
Lighthous 

u — Rly. t«» Dublin and 
I aiscorthy : car to Shillelagh. 

Dista I Niblin, 28 m. ; Rath- 

drum, v : Ashford, 1 '. . I I n y, 25 ; 
Ail . L5; Avoca, 1«> ; Bray, 16. 

B 3 



202 



Boute 23. — Dublin to Wexford. 



Ireland. 



Excursions. — 

1. Bathdrum and Vale of Avoca. 

2. Asbford and Devil's Glen. 

3. Wicklow Head. 

The rly. now turns inland to the 
S.W., and ascends towards the moun- 
tains, passing the village of Glenealy, 
where the scenery is picturesque and 
varied with extensive woods. 

On rt. are Glencarrig (Eev. G. 
Drought), Ballyfree (Rev. H. Tombe), 
and Hollywood (G. Tombe, Esq.), 
situate at the wooded base of Car- 
rick Mountain, 1252 ft. ; and on 1. 
is a wooded defile known as the 
Deputy's Pass, from the fact of the 
army of Sir William Fitzwilliam, 
the Lord-Deputy, having marched 
through it in 1595. 

36 in. Eathdrum (Rte. 24). 

[The road from Wicklow to Arklow 
is not remarkable in any way ; gene- 
rally speaking it is prettily diversified 
with hill and dale, keeping inland so 
as seldom to obtain views of the sea, 
though frequently of the mountains 
which keep company on the rt. At 
32 m. is Ballymoney House ( — Revel, 
Esq. , and a little farther on, occupy- 
ing an elevated position, is Westaston, 
the seat of T. Acton, Esq. At the 
former spot the road divides ; the one 
keeping closer to the coast, and the 
other making a slight detour inland, 
and crossing at Kilboy Bridge the 
Potters' River, a small stream that 
runs down through the Deputy's Pass. 
On its bank, between the 2 roads, is 
the ruined keep of Danganstown 
Castle. The character of the coast 
will be seen to have changed a good 
deal, for, instead of ,the steep and 
rugged cliffs of Wicklow Head, we 
have now low sandy dimes, inter- 
rupted solely by the promontory of 
Mizen Head. The hills to the rt. 
and the distant woods to the W. of 
Arklow plainly show the course of 
the " sweet vale of Avoca," the mouth 
of which we cross by a long narrow 
bridge, and enter the little port of 

43 in. Arklow (Rte. 24) {Inn : Kin- 
sela's), a busy fishing and shipping 



town, on the side of a hill overlooking 
the sea. Under the name of Arclogh 
it was included under those grants of 
territory for which Henry II. caused 
service to be done at Wexford, and 
possessed a castle and a monastery, 
which have both disappeared save a 
fragment of the tower of the former. 
This is the shipping port for the 
copper and lead-mines in the valley 
of the Avoca, the material being 
brought down by a tramroad. In 
consequence of this trade, Arklow is 
a rendezvous for a large number of 
coasters waiting to take the ore to 
Swansea. The beautiful scenery in 
the neighbourhood of Shelton and 
Wooden Bridge is described in the 
Wicklow tour (Rte. 24).] 

Distances. — Wicklow, 15 m. ; Go- 
rey, 10; Shelton, 2 \ ; Wooden 
Bridge, 4. 

Continuing by rail from Arklow, 
the traveller arrives at 

Gorey, a small town of one street 
| m. in length, associated with Ferns 
as the seat of a bishopric. A little 
to the N. of the town is Ramsfort, 
the residence of the family of Ram, 
which was burned down by the in- 
surgents in the troubles of 1798. 

3 m. to the S.E.is Courtown House 
(Earl of Courtown), in the sheltered 
valley of the Owenavorragh at its en- 
trance into the sea. The evergreens 
in the park are especially worthy of 
notice. " Among them is one which 
has assumed more the habit of the 
bush than the tree. Its outline is 
domical ; the stem, at 3 ft. from the 
ground, is 16 ft. in circumference, 
but above this it divides into nume- 
rous ramifications ; the branches ex- 
tend over an area whose periphery 
is 210 itr—Fraser. 

To the S. of Courtown is the 
mount of Ardamine, a singular 
earthen spherical mound standing 
on an artificial platform. It was 
probably sepulchral, as the ch. and 
graveyard of Ardamine are adjoining. 
The geologist may examine the 
Lower Silurian rocks in this neigh- 



Ireland. Route '2o. — Ferns — Newtown Barry. 



203 



1. the equivalents of the 
Bala and Caradoc beds of Wales, 

Distance*.— From Wexford, 25m.; 
Ferns, LOJ ; Newtown Harry, 19; 
Enniscorthy, 18, 

[The direct coach-road to Wex- 
ford runs due B, over high ground, 
descending into the valley of the 
Owenavorragh river, and passing 
BeJlywalterHouse(J.Pounden,Esq.), 
m. the villages of Ballycanew, 
Killenagh, and Wells House, the 
prettily-wooded seat of R. Doyne, 
Esq. When the road again ascends 
the high ground, the traveller gains 
distant views on rt. of Vinegar Hill, 
near Enniscorthy, and the range of 
Mount Leinster in the far west. 

in. is the pretty village of 

stlehridge, with it> in at little ch. 

and il<mr-inills: bood after 

which die long wooden bridge is 

I to 79 in. Wexford.] 

The rly. pass* - ( iamolio, a decayed 

village at tiie head of the valley of 

the Bann, a tributary of the Slaney. 

N". at the base of Slieveboy, 

[385 ft., \i I e extensive demesne of 

I eunolin Park, formerly the seat of 

the EarJ of Valeiitia, fait now out of 

ir. 

Iv pi] g on rt. some considerable 

wood-, ki own as Kilbora, Cool puck, 

and Goolroe Woods, we arrive al 

| in. F( rns, a i r, misi rable town, 

• clam me importance as being 

tb ;t bishopric, united with 

I I- »ry and Lt ighlin. 

I the year 598 Brandubh King 
of Lei made ;< grant to St. Edan, 
who forthwith built :i monastery, in 
which he waa bimselfinterred. Time 

U r time did the city suffer from the 
incur- : Da es, .1-1 in Karl 

I I :i. who built the castle, offered 
tie opric to ( riraldus Oambrensis, 
wh<>. | i r, refua d it. The ca- 
thedral is u modi rn I'« rp. building 
with a square embattled tow. r, built 

on the site of :m old ch. which v 

1 to have been the original ch. 

- 1 .hiii. Th< insof I 

jtmiana found d in 



the 12th cent, by U rmod M'Murougfi, 
consisting of some E. Eng. windows 

and M a lower of '2 stages, of which the 
lower is quadrangular and the upper 
polygonal, and covered with moss 
and ivy, which give it a circular 
form ; within is a geometrical stair- 
case leading to the top of the square 
tower." 

The castle was a quadrangular 
fortress overlooking the town. One 
of the round towers that flanked the 
corners is still in good preservation, 
and contains a chapel with a groined 
roof. The Episcopal Palace dates 
from the last cent., and is the centre 
of a pleasant demesne adjoining the 
cathedral. It was built by Thomas 
Ram in 1630, "who, being of very 
advanced age, placed this inscription 
above the porch — 

1 This house Ram built for his succeeding 
brothers : 
Thus sheep bear wool, not for themselves, 
but others.' " 

[An extremely pretty excursion 
can be made to the valley of the 
Slaney and the town of Newtown 
Barry, 9 m. From the high ground 
between Ferns and the Slaney the 
tourist ^ains splendid views of Mount 
Leinster, 2610 ft, Black Stairs, 2409, 
ainl White Mountain, I '259 — a noble 
;nnl romantic; range that intervenes 
iron i \. to S. between the valleys of 
the Slaney and the Barrow (Ete. 'IS). 
in. the Enniscorthy road is joined 
on the 1. or B. bank of the Slaney, 
jusi between ClobemoD Hall M. De 
!;. li/v. Km[. and JJallyrankin (Rev. 
J. 1 kverenx . 

A little higher up is the village of 
Clobemon, with it s mill and cottOD 
factory. 

Here the river is crossed, and the 

toad continues on the \Y. bunk' to 

( .» m. Newtown Barry I Intel: 
(;illb nd well-built town, 

in :i very fine position ov< rlooking the 
Slaney, and a1 the r« . | of ( rreen< 
and Black Rock Mountains, both 
BhoukL ra of Mount Leinsfc r. 1 



201 



Route 23. — Dublin to Wexford. 



Trelaxd. 



Slancy is crossed by a bridge of 7 
arches, as is also the Clody, a small 
stream that here divides Carlow 
from Wexford. Newtown Barry has 
a very good agricultural trade, 
and possesses several flour-mills. 
The ch. -spire rises prettily from a 
wooded grove, and the whole town 
is surrounded by ornamental resi- 
dences : Woodfield (R. Hall Dare, 
Esq.), the grounds of which are beau- 
tifully laid out, and extend for some 
distance on each bank of the Slaney ; 
Rainsford Lodge (S. Ram, Esq.) ; 
and Ravenswood. 

Newtown Barry is a convenient 
point from whence to ascend Mount 
Leinster, as the road to Borris 
passes through the defile of Corrabut 
Gap between it and Kilbrammish. 
Take the road to the S. that turns off 
here, and follow it to a spot called 
Ninestones, from whence the ascent 
is steep, but direct. Ninestones is 7 J 
m. from the town , 

Distances. — Ferns, 9 m. ; Borris, 
14; Clonegall, 5; Enniscorthy, 12. 

Excursion. — 

Mount Leinster.] 

The line now follows the valley 
of the Barrow, and strikes upon the 
Slaney near Scarawalsh Bridge, 67 
m., a road from which is carried on 
both sides of the river. On the E. 
bank is Killabeg (S. Davis, Esq.\ 
Solsborough (Rev. S. Richards), and 
Greenmount (T. Waring, Esq.). 

72 m. Enniscorthy {Hotel : Nu- 
zam's) is one of the prettiest little 
towns in the kingdom, the largest 
portion of it being on a steep hill on 
the rt. bank of the Slaney, which 
here becomes a deep and navigable 
stream, and is crossed by a bridge of 
6 arches. From the stream above 
the bridge dividing its channel the 
prefix Ennis (Ynys island; was pro- 
bably obtained, and the latter half of 
the name is said to have been derived 
from " Corthoe, the capital of the Co- 
riondi." The things to be seen are 
a ch. in better taste than most in 
Ireland, a single tower of the old 



Franciscan monastery, and the pic- 
turesque ivy-covered square keep, 
flanked by drum towers, of the castle 
built ; by Raymond le Gros. It has, 
however, been modernized, and is in- 
habited by a caretaker. Overlook- 
ing the E. bank is Vinegar Hill, an 
eminence only 384 ft. in height, but 
worth ascending, partly for the very 
fine view over the valley of the Slaney, 
the Leinster range, and the district 
towards the coast, and partly from the 
association of the battle of Vinegar 
Hill, on the 29th May, 1798, when 
the insurgents, in number upwards 
of 10,000 men, were attacked by Gen. 
Lake and completely routed. The 
rebels had a few days previously 
succeeded in plundering and veiy 
nearly destroying Enniscorthy, many 
of the loyal inhabitants having been 
captured, led to the camp, and put to 
death. A great deal of trade is car- 
ried on here, coal being brought up 
the river from Wexford into the inte- 
rior, and corn and butter sent back. 

In the neighbourhood of the town, 
on the Borris road, are Verona (G. 
F. Newbery, Esq.), Daphney Castle 
(T. Davies, Esq.), Monart (Counsellor 
Cookman), and Kiiloughrum (T, 
Buckley, Esq,); the latter in the 
midst of a thick and extensive 
plantation known as Kiiloughrum 
Forest. 

Conveyances.— Oox& daily to Water- 
ford, to Wexford ; rail to Dublin. 

Excursions. — 

1. Newtown Barry. 

2. Vinegar Hill. 

3. Ferns. 

Distances. — Gorey, 18 m. : Wex- 
ford, 13J; Newtown Barry, 12; Ferns, 
8 ; Bally william, 14, [to which lat- 
ter place it is an uninteresting drive, 
relieved during the latter portion by 
fine views of Mount Leinster and 
Blackstairs.] 

The road from Enniscorthy to 
Wexford is full of great beauty, in 
which the chief elements are a noble 
river with lofty wooded banks, rich 
pastures, and pleasant country-houses. 



Ireland. 



Route 23.— Wexford. 



205 



[te or W. bonk, a little 
below t i inuence of the Orrin, is 

the si if St. John's House for Augus- 
tine Friars. On the rt. bank, Boro- 
dale D. Beatty, Esq.] and Bormount 
V, Bartolucci, Esq. : on the I. bank 
Etochibrl Mrs. Callaghan), and Eder- 
mine, the charming seat of !Sir J. 
Power, Bart. 

Here the road gradually draws oft* 
from the river, and, as it ascends 
higher Ground, commands even more 
• mit'ul views. 77 in., rt. bank, are 
Mackmine [J. Richards, Esq.); and 
below, Bellevue A. i lliffe, Esq.) and 
Brookhill (T. Bell, Esq.), opposite fco 
which "H rt. is Kyle House (P. 
1 1 Lrvey, Esq. . 

[At K\ Le Cross Beads, 80 m., a 
ion 1. l< adstoOastlebridge jp. 203); 
3t. Eklmond's ( ipt. Irvine) 
and Artramon G, Lc Hunte, Esq.), 
2 fine - - "ii the X. shore of the 
tnary, together with the ruined 
ch. and keep of Art i anion Castle. 
By this road, however, the tourist 
loses a b autifol landscape, as lie de- 
wooden bridge over the 
Blaney, which narrows at this point, 
"lit on the 1. in a broad < 3- 
tuary, and on the rt. in a quiet reach 
with high rocky banks fringed with 
brushwo" A ruined tower corn- 

bridge "ii the X.. and there 
alight traoi - of one on the 
8., said > have been the firsl fortn se 
by tli" Anglo-Normans in 
I id. I iking up the river are 
K i P. Walker, Esq. and Ard- 

adrisk Hon. M 3. M m on oppo- 
and on tli" 1. bounding tlie 
X. ah 8 onders Couri [Earl of 

A 

. where a loll 
lid, tli- road divides ; on 
tb rthy by the rt. bank 

and on the 1. to] 

1. Wi B . 28 Hold: 

Wl Mb . Pop. 1 1,673. A 

id is :i ]»lffisfmt-lonkiii^ 

place, '»v. Lng . - situation on th 



of a hill, the summil of which is 
plentifully garnished with wood and 
overlooks the estuary of the Slaney 
and Wexford Haven. Bu1 theatre* 
are inconvenient, and narrow to ^\\r\\ 
a degree thai it is a matter of arrange- 
ment to prevent 2 vehicles meeting 
each other in the principal thorough- 
fares ; indeed, the tourist, when en- 
sconced in his hotel is rather startled 
to find himself with an Asmodeus-like 
view of the interiors of the opposite 
houses. Wexfordis, however, a quaint 
and ancient little place, and a day 
may be spent to advantage. It was an 
early and important maritime settle- 
ment of the Danes, and from its 
secure harbour and its proximity to 
England was naturally one of the 
curliest landing-places of the Anglo- 
Norman invaders. Here Strongbow 
resided and celebrated the rnarrit . 
of his sister Basilica with Raymond le 
Gros; and here, in modern times, were 
the head-quarters of the rebels in '98, 
who kept it for nearly a month in their 
possession, and put to death ( J1 of the 
inhabitants. Wexford was a walled 
town, and possessed an unusually early 
charter, granted by Adomar de Va- 
lence in 1:518. Of these walls, "5 of 
the towers, 3 square and 2 round, are 
still in a sufficient state of preserva- 
tion to show that the walls were -'1 ft. 
high, and were supported on the in- 
aide by a rampari of earth 2J ft. thick." 

At the W, end of the tow o, where, 
the W. gate stood, are the nhns of St. 
Peter and St. Paul, usually called 
Selsker ch. This abbey was founded 
at the close of the 12th cent, by the 
Roches, Lords of Fermoy, and seems to 
have partaken a good deal of the de- 
fensive character : l>nt of Late years 
much modi rn building has taken 
place here, thai it has almost de- 
stroys d the main features of the ruins. 
( Connected with the anei nt tower is 
tin- tnodeni E. Eng. ch. of St. Selsker, 
on the site of the spot where the fij 

r signed by thi Englu h and 
Irish was ratified in 1 1 6 Thi 

angular legend Cromwell took 



206 



"Route 23. — Wexford — Forth. 



Ireland. 



away the peal of bolls from this cli., 
and shipped them oif to a ch. in 
Livei'i>ool ; in return for which, free- 
dom of the town and exemption from 
}K)rt dues were granted to Wexford 
merchants. 

Nearly in the centre of the town 
are the scanty ruins of St. Mary's. 

As regards religious edifices, the 
Koman Catholics carry off the palm 
in Wexford, and the tourist should 
not omit to visit St. Peter's ch., an 
elaborate and really beautiful Dec. 
building with a very lofty spire and a 
remarkably good rose-window. This 
ch, is attached to St. Peter's College on 
Summer Hill, overlooking the town, 
which, with its square central tower, is 
a conspicuous object. As a county- 
town, Wexford possesses the institu- 
tions usually found, but none of them 
are worth seeing, except the gaol 
at the W. end, a fine castellated 
building. 

One of its most singular features 
is the wooden bridge built by 
Lemuel Cox, the American bridge 
architect; as it stands at present it 
consists of 2 causeways projecting 
from opposite banks, 650 and 188 ft. 
long respectively, the roadway be- 
tween being 733 ft. The state of the 
bridge - flooring, however, is such, 
that the traveller who crosses it by 
coach, and sees the boards tilt up as 
it passes, becomes very uncertain 
as to the probability of getting safe 
to the other side : so bad is it indeed 
that the Wexford citizens are be- 
stirring themselves to build a new 
one. " The harbour is of an oblong 
shape, formed by the estuary of the 
Slaney, extending 8 m. from N. to S. 
or parallel with the coast, and 4 m. 
wide, comprising an area of 14,000 
acres. It is admirably situated for 
commerce from its proximity to Eng- 
Innd and being at the entrance of the 
Irish Channel ; but these advantages 
are not available in consequence of a 
bar at the mouth, having only 18 ft. 
tor at high tides. The quays ex- 
tend 1000 yards in length, and there 



is a dockyard and patent slip." — 
Thorn's * Directory.' 

Conveyances. — Coaches to Ennis- 
corthy and Waterford. 

Excursions. — 

1. Forth Mountains. 

2. Lady's Island. 

3. Enniscorthy. 

4. Taghmon. (Ete. 28.) 
Distances. — Dublin, 79 m. ; Gorey, 

26; Arklow, 36; Enniscorthy, 13J; 
Forth Mountains, 5 ; New Koss, 22 ; 
Duncannon, 23 ; Bally william, 28. 

[An excursion into the barony of 
Forth, which extends S. to the sea- 
coast, is replete with interest, partly 
from the number of fortified houses 
and towers, of which there are said 
to be nearly 60 in an area of 40,000 
acres, and partly from the tact that 
the barony is inhabited by the de- 
scendants of a Welsh colony, some- 
what in the same way as the districts 
of Castlemartin and Gower on the 
opposite Pembrokeshire coast are 
inhabited by Flemings. Indeed, it 
would be more correctly stated that 
the Wexford colonists were de- 
scended from old residents in Wales, 
rather than Welshmen, as there is 
no doubt but that the Norman, 
English, and Flemish families who 
had gained possessions in South 
Wales, were the adventurers who 
pushed their fortunes and settled 
in Ireland. Many names belonging 
to the Principality, such as Carew, 
Koche, Scurlock, Barry, &c., are 
naturalized in Ireland. The present 
inhabitants of Forth and Bargy are 
said to be peculiar in their dialect, 
habits, and folk-lore. 

Quitting Wexford by the S. road 
and leaving the Forth Mountains to 
the rt., the tourist reaches, 4 m., 
Johnstown Castle (Sir T. Esmonde, 
Bart.), a beautiful castellated resi- 
dence built of Carlow granite and 
incorporated with a tower of the old 
fortress. The grounds are very orna- 
mental and well laid out. 

6J m. Eathmacknee (Capt. Arm- 






IfiELAl 



Boute 24. — Dublin to ArUow. 



207 



strong), near which, in remarkably 
od preservation, is the ancient 
rtalice of the same name. About 
1 m. to the 8. is another castellated 
residence, thai of Bargy, formerly 
the property of the ill-fated BagenaJ 
Harvey, and now of his descendant 
John Harvey, Esq, It is situated at 
the head of Tacumshin Lake, a pill 
that runs inland for some little dis- 
tance. The coast in this neigh- 
bourhood was notorious for the 
number ^( wrecks that annually 
took place, before it was lighted as 
W( II as it now is. The Saltee 
Islands enjoyed a particularly bad 
reputation amongst sailors, as there 
are a number of banks and half- 
le rocks extending from thence to 
the Tuskar, but they are now pro- 
I by a light-ship showing a 
lixed double liirht. Between Barer? 
and Rathmacknee is the ruined cb. 
of Mayglass, which possesses some 
aicircular-headed arches. 
13 m., at the head of Lady's 
I -'.and Lake, are the ruins of the 
me name, erected in 1237 by 
Rodolph de Lamporte or Lambert, 
and consisting — 1, of a keep, entered 
an arched gateway and con- 
nected by side walls with the water 
on eil le; 2, a tower adjoining 

ap] to hai D built at a later 

da - . - - of limestone, when - 
the formi r one is of granite ; 3, i I 
ustinian monastery, which, 
being dedicated to the Virgin, pro- 
name to the island. 
, the co I B, is Bally- 

oi 1 1 as J, Talbot, Esq. . in 
whose groun< is a remarkably 
ct rath, consisting of 2 con- 
atric ires, the outer one 

19 yards in circumferenc 
distance out at sea is the 
Tuskar l; ick, on which a 
blished in 1815. 
■■ h i of -l Argand lamps 

a reft 7 lam 

_rht « V\ . L' Miinnt. 9, 

whil« □ of t 1m- 21 pi - a 

dee] I light ev< ry <j minutes — the 



term of the revolution. The lights are 
105 ft. from the base, and the vane 
from highwater mark is L34 ft." 
The district to the W, between 
Wexford and Duncannon is de- 
scribed in Rte. 28.] 



EOUTE 24. 

FROM DUBLIN TO RATHDRUM AND 
ARKLOW. — TOUR THROUGH WICK- 
LOW. 

A torn- through WicMow is the 
great delight of all Dublin residents, 
who are, indeed, fortunate in having 
almost at their own doors a succes- 
sion of changing scenery, in which 
mem i tain, sea, wood, and river, are 
blended together in delicious Land- 
scapes, from the quietly beautiful to 
the strikingly romantic, famishing 
an environ thai no other city in the 
world can boast. 

The direct line from Dublin to 
Bray is described in Rte. 23, and the 
rly. from Kingstown to Dublin in 
Rte. 1. It will therefore be sufficient 
if we commence this route from Kings- 
town. The rly., which up to this 
point has closely hugged the 

shore, now runs inland for a short 
distance, cutting off the promontory of 
i Ikey 8 m., and passing on 1. Bul- 
lock's ( Jastle, a tall, square k< < j<, 
with Iri.di .-f. pped battli mens, 
flanked by a square turret ;it one 
nd surroundi d by a bawn. 
A little disi 6 uto Poi 



208 



Route 24. — Dublin to ArMow. 



Ireland. 



on which is a terrace of fashionable 
residences, is Dalkey Island, sepa- 
rated from the mainland by a sound 
900 yards long and 300 wide. Upon 
it is a small ruined eh., originally 
founded for Benedictines. Dalkey, 
however, does not found its claims to 
distinction upon this, but upon cer- 
tain farcical proceedings periodically 
enacted at the close of the last cen- 
tury, when it was called the Kingdom 
of Dalkey, and was the seat of a sin- 
gular mock ceremonial, where the so- 
called Kino* held his Court amidst 
much noisy rejoicing and festivity. He 
was dignrfled with the title of " His 
facetious Majesty Stephen the First, 
King of Dalkey, Emperor of Mug- 
lins, Prince of the Holy Island of 
Magee. Elector of Lambav and Ire- 
land's Eve, Defender of his own 
Faith and Respecter of all others, 
Sovereign of the Illustrious Order 
of the Lobster and Periwinkle." 
Such an absurd burlesque would 
scarcely be worth the chronicling, had 
not the spirit of the times, together 
with the social status of the actors, 
infused into it a large amount of 
politics, so much so as to cause the 
daily papers to devote a regular co- 
lumn to the doings of " the Kingdom 
of Dalkey." 

Conspicuous on the rt. are the 
granite-quarries of Dalkey and Kil- 
liney Hill, which rises in bold 
outline to the height of 480 ft. The 
former of these were worked from 
1817 to 1857, and supplied most of 
the stone used in the formation of 
Kingstown Harbour. " In general 
character the Killiney' and Dalkey 
granite is rather quartzose, of pale, 
clear-gray colour, and is traversed 
by numerous veins of eurite. These 
frequently assume the magnitude of 
thick dykes, one of winch to the N. 
of the rock called Black Castle, on 
the shore of Killiney Bay, measures 
40 yds. across. On the southern flank 
of Boche's Hill, close to the garden 
wall of Killiney Park, is a remarkable 
granite dyke traversing the mica 



slate." — Geological Survey. This 
last-named mica schist is, in fact, 
Lower Silurian slate altered from 
the contact with the granite, which 
feature can be observed in many 
places along the shore of Killiney 
Hill. The hill itself is private pro- 
perty, but the owner permits visitors 
access to enjoy the glorious panorama 
from the summit. The botanist will 
find on its slopes Asplenium maxi- 
mum, Galium erectum, G. saxatile, 
and Crithmum maritimum or the 
samphire-plant. 

Near the martello tower stands 
" The Druid's Judgment Seat," 
formed of rough granite blocks, 
" which bear many indications of 
having been re-arranged at no very 
distant period." Mr. Wakeman con- 
siders it to be an archaeological for- 
gery, founded on a veritable early 
remain. 

The antiquary should also visit 
Killiney ch., one of those ancient and 
primitive buildings so characteristic 
of early Irish architecture. It is about 
the same date as the ch. at Glenda- 
lough (p. 216), and consists of a nave 
measuring 12J ft. in breadth, and a 
chancel only 9^ ft. The doorway is 
in the west gable, and is square- 
headed, with slightly inclined sides. 
Notice the primitive form of cross 
sculptured on the soffit of the lintel. 
The height of the circular choir arch 
is 6.V ft. The E. window is square- 
headed, with inwardly inclined splays. 
" The comparatively modern addition 
on the northern side of the nave, 
which appears to have been erected 
as a kind of aisle, is connected with 
the ancient ch. by several openings 
broken through the N. side wall. 
The pointed doorway offers a striking 
contrast to that in the W. gable; 
and its eastern window differs from 
that in the chancel, being larger, 
and chamfered on the exterior." — ■ 
Wakeman. At the summit of Kil- 
liney is an obelisk, marking the 
spot where a Duke of Dorset was 
thrown and killed when hunting. 



LAX P. 



Route 24. — Bray. 



200 



sitor can, if lit' prefers, de- 
•iid Dii the other ride of the hill to 
Mount Druid, and, after Beeing the 
cromlech, catch a train on the Har- 
iri B ad lint\ 

1'. | in. Bray, the Brighton of Dublin, 
td tin- sunniest and gayest of water- 
in s. Hot h . the Royal Breslin, 

- . and tin" International, 
both first class. It is only within 
the lasi Pew years that Bray has 
from the primitive quiel 
«>f the fishing village into tin- full- 
Mown gaiety which it now exhibits 
— a change partly owing to the exqui- 
tery of which it is tin- portal, 
anil partly to the earnest spirit with 
which Mr. Dargan devoted himself to 
nproying and beautifying a Locality 
which his far- a eye told him was 
admirably adapted f« r it. In one 
- fortunate, for, as 
ground was new, there was little or 
if ancienl Bray t<» be pulled 
: - I ;iat to all intents and pur- 
posea we may consider it ess ntially 
;i ] f to-day. The station is cl< 

sea, 1 a the two lat 

hoi -1 in and the Interna- 

oal, both of them establishments 

. and some pretensions to 

tural beauty. The situation 

is v ry eharmi'i'_r. occupy- 

lish basin, and surrounded 

by hills, save on thai which 

I by t\ - ■ On 1 \ . 

Killi id Two Rocks ; on I 

W. in- at the back of En- 

8. an the 
. with the lofty t 
I ) 3 1 i < • 1 1 . i from Bray I i 

s ii the town. Prom 

all th< se hi shoulders are 

'i <>iit. oing their stern f< ,i- 

Lnsen mi rging into 

lunds ;m<l parks of 

- in the neigh- 

I If contains little 

\. ry 
1 ch. wit • nt tii. \V. 

r build- 
From th< 

- 



bility to Kingstown and Dublin, and 

its genial and even P ni|M rature, it is 
much sought after a- a place of resi- 
dence : and in consequence many tin" 
terraces and streets have risen up with 

wonderful rapidity. The neighbour- 
hood, however, is not so soon ex- 
hausted as the town, and affords a 
constant succession of pleasant dri\ 
and excursions. 

1. To Bray Eead. The southern 
road towards Delgany should he taken, 
passing 1. Newcourt ; 1 m. the suburb 
of Newtown Vevayjand soon after on 
1. the entrance to Bray Head (•. 
Putland, Esq/ . '1 m. rt. is Kilrud- 
dery, a very charming Elizabethan 
residence of the Marl of Meath, who 
permits visitors to inspect it on Mon- 
days and Tuesdays. In the Interii r 
is a line hull, wainscoted with oak, 
with a carvt <1 oak ceiling. Ti 
leads to several beautiful apartments, 
of which the drawing-room is par- 
ticularly worthy of notice. Kilrud- 
dery was built after designs by Mor- 

>n, the architect of Shelton. The 
gardens are worth seeing, and the 
views from the grounds, which slope 
up towards the Little Sugarloaf, 
are exquisite. Opposite Kilruddery 
( rate is a road Leading up to the 
Bray I Pad, Poo p.. a line breezy 
headland, commanding a noble pano- 
rama ef the Wicklow Hills and tl 
sea. Should the pedestrian wi 
it, he may extend his ramble to the 
rejoining the turnpike at Wind- 
Put the pleasantesl way horn - 
wind- i- to g ( t on to what is called 
the Railway Walk, which i 
some fine scenery of the ravines an 1 
gullies across which the line 

ried. The ramble to Wind 
and back by tic 1 [< ad, will be 6 m. 
The geologist will find at the foot i i 
the I h ad numbers of sp< cimene of 
the Oldliamia antiqu th< r 

with EEowth, being the only known 
Locality in [r< land. 

•i. : I ;i of the I >o\ as La de- 
scribed in th< nutation of the 
route p. 212 . 



210 



Boute 2-1. — Dublta to ArWow. 



Ireland. 



3. To the Scalp (p. 219), through 
E m li skerry, returning by Old Con- 
naught, the beautiful .sent of P. 
Riall, Esq. (now vacant), which, from 
its situation, is a conspicuous object 
in all Bray views. 

4. The Dargle and Powerscourt are 
the great lions of the district, and the 
picnic rendezvous, par excellence, of 
every Dublin holiday-maker. The 
road turns off from the one to Dublin, 
and runs through Little Bray, follow- 
ing upwards the valley of the Bray 
river, locally called the Valley of 
Diamonds; it is set off with many 
a pretty villa, and begirdled with 
woods, over which the distant hills 
show their summits. More exten- 
sive views are obtained from Lord 
Herbert's new road, which falls into 
the main road at the pretty new ch. 
of Kilbride. On the N. side of the 
Cookstown stream is St. Valery, the 
picturesque residence of the late 
Judge Crampton, the grounds of 
which are worth a visit. At Fassaroe 
is a well - preserved cross, with a 
sculptured representation of Our Sa- 
viour. A little further, on 1., is the 
entrance to the Dargle, the road to 
Enniskerry keeping straight on by 
the Cookstown river. By this en- 
trance, however, pedestrians only 
are admitted, cars having to keep 
along the road and wait for their 
occupants at the second gate. The 
walks on the northern bank, through 
which the visitor is allowed to ramble, 
belong to the Powerscourt demesne ; 
and those on the opposite side to 
Charleville, the property of Lord 
Monck. The Dargle, about which so 
much has been said and written, is 
a deep, thickly- wooded glen, at the 
bottom of which flows the Dargle 
river, an impetuous mountain-stream ; 
and in truth it well deserves ad- 
miration, for a more lovely dingle 
it is difficult to conceive. Neverthe- 
less it is a question whether it would 
have been the theme of so much ad- 
miration were it not for its easy acces- 



sibility and its proximity to Dublin; 
for, while confessing its charms, there 
are yet many glens containing liner 
or more romantic scenery. The chief 
points of rendezvous are the Lover's 
Leap, " a huge rock, projecting far 
from the glen's side, and overlooking 
rt. and 1. the still depths of the ra- 
vine. Shadowing, and bending aw r ay 
in a densely- wooded slope, the oppo- 
site side of the glen rises grandly up- 
wards ; while 300 ft. down below us 
steals the ever-present river towards 
the sea, the blue line of whose distant 
horizon rules the topmost branches of 
the trees away on our L"- — Powell. 
There are also the Moss House and 
the View Kock, from whence a good 
distant view is gained of Powers- 
court, backed up by the lofty ranges 
of Kippure. Having exhausted the 
beauties of the Dargle, the tourist 
emerges from the second, or furthest 
gate, into the turnpike-road, between 
Dublin and Katkdrum. If a short 
excursion only is intended, he can 
turn to the rt. to Enniskerry, and 
retrace his way back to Bray by the 
N. bank of the Cookstown stream ; 
but, if bent on seeing the water- 
fall, he should follow the road to 
the 1., running between the woods 
of Powerscourt and the grounds of 
Tinnahinch (Lady Louisa Grattan), 
a plain house, surrounded by dense 
woods, which founds its reputation on 
having been the residence and fa- 
vourite retreat of Henry Grattan, to 
whom it was presented by the Irish 
Parliament. There is an exquisite 
view at Tinnahinch Bridge, where the 
Dargle is again crossed, and where the 
road ascends, having on 1. Bushy 
Park (Kt. Hon. Judge Keogh) and 
Ballyorney (Maj. Kenny) ; and on 
rt. Charleville, the seat of Lord 
Monck. At the S. end of these de- 
mesnes is the Glebe House, 4^ m., 
where a road on rt. turns off to enter 
Lord Powerscourt's deer-park, a large 
enclosure of some 800 acres, " of 
which the greater part is under 
young plantations ; enough, however. 



Iki.' wn. Route 21. — The Dargle — Powerscourt. 



211 



Id trees n main to carry back 
lC imagination to what this place 
was - me years ago, when venerable 
oaks were scattered along the sides of 
the glen, and when herds of deer 
bounded over the fern-covered sur- 
motionless on the cliffs 
when danger was in the wind." — 
Fro8< r. 

!• if a dianning excursion through 
the deer-park to the waterfall, where 
tip 1 1 _ - precipitated over a rock 
ft, in height, immediately under 
the N.E, side of the Douce Moun- 
tain. I' rtainly a very fine fall, 
though, like i v. ry other, dependent for 
Beet on the volume of water 
in the river. From hence an ax-cut 
be made to the summit of the 
- 1- ft., which, with its com- 
- and neighbours, War Hill, 
ft., and Kippure, 2475 ft., are 
the loftiest of tin's northern 
chain of Wicklow mountains. The 
vi- yards and landwards, are 
ally fine, the latter embracing 
range after range in "Wicklow, and 
m W 'I. 
Pc rart waterfall is usually 
the limit of a limy excursion, but if 
traveller has time he may, with 
fellow from the deer-park 
up the ( rlencn • I lughbray 
."• m. from the point where the Dargle 
\ alcluse . I \< re are two 
Upper and Lower 
I . g I • rapying d< ep * 

under the summit of Kippure, 
od L225 ft. d 
bove the level of the e 

- thai have their 

bitat i 3 Lacustris, Poa 

ind Ldsfc ra cordata. < >n 

v. bank of the latter lake, which is 

ich tl. . La b pictun ague old 

built for the fate 8 

l i by the Duke of 

\ rl rland; v. ry near which 

the ' 
ry 1.' lid, windinj ad 

til- t Oh ncm i 1 1 

•u mi the opposite side 
to Enniskerry, \ 1 k 



of the grounds of Powerscourt Lord 
Powerscourt). To sec the grounds and 
house an order is nea Bsary, to be ob- 
tained from the agent at Enniskerry. 
The mansion is a plain building, 
chiefly remarkable for its size and the 
unsurpassable beauty of it.- situation. 
The principal interest internally is the 
large saloon, in which George IV. par- 
took of a banquet in 1821. ThewhoL 
of the demesne occupies 26,000 acn 
being the largest and most varied 
estate of any in this part of the king- 
dom. The botanist will find in tl 
neighbourhood of Powerscourt and 
Dargly — Polypodium phlegopteris, 
Aapidium dumetosum and on Douce 
Mt. . Trichomanes brevisetum, Hy- 
menophyllum TunbridgenSje, Oarex 
pendula, C strigosa (Dargle), F- 
tuca calamaria D irgle . Poa pra- 
tensis, Circaea lutetiana, Arenaria 
trinervis, Viola palustris; and in 
Glencree, Cnicus pratensis, Hymeno- 
phyllum Wilsoni. If the tourist 
intends seeing the waterfall after the 
house, he should leave the park by 
a gate opposite Tinnahinch; but if 
he is returning to Bray, by a fine 
Grecian gateway very near the little 
town of Enniski try Hotel : Shirley' - 
famous for its situation in the cent] 
of a district teeming with beauty. 
Nearly opposite the park-gates is a 
very pretty Protestant ch., the spire of 
which is sheathed with copper. 1 
the pedestrian who wishes to extend 
his rambles with greater ease, or for 
the angler, Enniskerry is more con- 
venient than Bray. 

An omnibus runs daily betw< 
the two plao Tli'' pedestrian 
should not omit I >nd the ( treat 

8 garloa£ which is perfectly easy, 
though Bh ep, and commands a fin 
panoramic view than any mountain 
in the district, embracing in cL 
ther the hills of Wal< 

The whole of I ghbourhood of 

B rands in pi ad 

f n addition to ly 

mentioned are, n« ar I h< I Dublin road, 

Wilfort I Tool E . '•. M 



21:2 



Route 24. — Dublin to ArJclow. 



Ireland, 



(D. Mackay, Esq.), Old Connaught 
Souse, Palermo (Miss Hutchinson), 
Cork Abbey Col. Verner), Ravens- 
well, Mount Eden, Jubilee Hall, &c- 

Conveyances. — Kail to Dublin and 
Wicklow ; omnibus to Enniskerry 
tlnce times a day. 

Distances. — Dublin, 12 m. ; Kil- 
liney, 4 : Kingstown, 7 ; Shankill, 2.^ ; 
the Scalp, 5 ; Kilternan, 6 ; the 
Dargle, 3 ; Tinnahinch, 3^ ; Powers- 
court, 4 ; Enniskerry, 3 ; Gleneree, 
9; Waterfall, 7; Roundwood, 12| ; 
Glendalough and seven chinches, 19 ; 
Annarnoe, 15 ; Lough Bray, 10 ; 
Delgany, 5; Bray Head, 1J; Glen 
of the Downs, 5 ; Devil's Glen, 10 ; 
Newtown Mount Kennedy, 9 ; Rath- 
driun, 24 ; Wicklow, 16. " 

Three roads leave Bray for the S. ; 
the one nearest the coast runs direct 
to Wicklow parallel with the rly. (Rte. 
23). The middle one should be fol- 
lowed by the tourist to Newtown 
Mount Kennedy. 

2 1. is Holhjbrook, the seat of Sir 
George Hodson, and a favourite show- 
place for visitors to Bray. The house 
is of Tudor style, and in very good 
taste. It replaced an older mansion, 
dating from the 17th century, a fact 
to which may be attributed the age 
and luxuriance of the shrubs and 
evergreens, particularly the ilex and 
arbutus. Hollybrook was once the 
residence of Robin Adair, so famous 
in Irish song. On the opposite side of 
the road is Wingfield (H. Darby, Esq.). 
The scenery is wonderfully pictu- 
resque, as the road passes a defile 
between the Great and Little Sugar- 
Ion f, two of the mo.st conspicuous 
and characteristic eminences in Wick- 
low, the former 1G59 ft., and the 
latter 1120 ft. Although steep and 
very conelike in summit, they are 
perfectly accessible, and afford a view 
well worth the trouble of ascent. 
The Hymenophyllum Wilsoni and 
the pretty Potentilla argentea grow 
on their Bides. At Kilmurry, it is 
said, but on no authority, that Gene- 
ral Wolfe was born. 



At the 5 m. the tourist enters a very 
charming scene at the Glen of the 
Downs, a deep woodland ravine of a 
good mile in length, the banks of which 
on either side rise to the height of 
some 800 ft. At the entrance is 
Glenview, the residence of W. Lind- 
say, Esq. ; and running parallel with 
it on the 1. is Belle vue, the beautiful 
park of the La Touche family. A 
very extensive view is obtained from a 
little temple erected on the top of the 
bank. At the S. entrance of the 
glen [a road on 1. leads to Delgany 
{Hotel: Fitzsimon's), from whence 
the traveller may return to Bray by 
rail]. 

9 m. Newtown Mount Kennedy 
{Hotel: Xewell's) is a small town, 
remarkable only for the charming 
scenery and for the number of hand- 
some residences in its neighbourhood 
— Mount Kennedy House (R. G. 
Cuninghame, Esq.) ; Tinnapark (J. 
Clarke, Esq.) ; Glendarragh (T. 
Barton, Esq.) ; Altidore (late Rev. 
L. Hepenstall), in the grounds of 
which are some well-arranged cas- 
cades; Woodstock House (Col. Tot- 
tenham). 

Conveyances. — Cars to Delgany 
station. 

Distances. — Rathdrum, 15 m. ; 
Devil's Glen, 8 ; Glen of the Downs, 
4 ; Kilcoole village, 2 — station, 3. 

The next point of interest is at 
12 m. the prettily wooded glen of 
Dunran, where there is some good 
rock-landscape. 

15 m. Ashford {Hotel: Ashford) 
is a pleasant spot for a short stay, 
and the centre of some of the pret- 
tiest scenery in Wicklow. It is situ- 
ated on the bank of the Vartry river, 
which, after flowing through the 
Devil's Glen, has but a short course 
prior to its entering the Murrough of 
Wicklow. 1 m. from Ashford to the E. 
is Ne wrath Bridge {Hotel: Hunter's, 
good), adjoining which is Rosanna 
House, the seat of D. Tighe, Esq., a 
former member of whose family lives in 
the recollection of the lovers of Irish 



LAND, 



Route 21. — Devil's Glen — Rathdrum. 



213 



- the ;iui horess of ' Psyche ' 
T i _: unds and house of 
Broomfield F, Wakefield, Esq. arc 
worth a visit. Bui the excursion par 
•ceUena of Ashford is the Devil's 
Glen, a very fine and romantic defile of 
nearly °2 m. in Length, through which 
the Vartry flows li is of a different 
nature from thai of the Dargle, the 
chief characteristic of which is wood; 
while here rock scenery pn dominat 3. 
Car- are no! allowed to drive up, but 
have to wail on the road some little 
distance from the head of the glen. 
Bordering the ravine on cither side 
ore Glenmore Castle, the seal of F. 
Bynge, Esq., and Ballycurry House 
0. Tottenham, Esq., M.P. ; and 
mediately at the entrance, ad- 
joining the bri »f Nun's Cross, is 

Proti stant ch. The botanist will 
find in the glen Asplenium ceterach. 
r> i v. . . n R randwood and the head 
_ -it'ii are the newly constructed 
r » rvoirsof the Dublin Waterworks, 
from whence the waters of theVartry 
are made to supply the necessities of 
Dublin population. Here is a 
reservoir of 400 acres, or five 
times that of the ill-fated reservoir of 
Sheffield. When filled, this basin 
will hold 2,482,810,483 gallons of 
water, beii supply of 12,000,000 

ons daily \'<>r 200 days. The em- 
inkmenl is L600 feet long by 500 
wide, the materia] I puddled 

earth i with granit 

I > i. — Rathdrum, 1 m. : 

1 1 rilX Hen, 1 ; Newrath Bridge . I ; 
Rathnew, l'A-: Wicklow, 1 '. : New- 
.vii Hbunt Kennedy, 6; Glenda- 
lough,9J; Annamoe, 6; Roundwood, 
12. 

The visitor has choice of two roads, 

— one, through BallinaL a to t rlenealy 

B picturesque and prettily- 

* Led route ; the ot I er, on the X. 

1 irrick Blount, 1252 ft., is 
m<»r-- billv and desolate, until within 
• miles 

tthdru poor / . p rched 

in the most romantic way, Like 
many a Tyrol Be villa. 



steep banks of the Annamoe, which 
runs through a very beautifully 

wooded ravine. Neither the town 

itself nor the accommodation offers 
sufficient inducement for the traveller 
to stay lure: and he will only bail 
his horse or change his car previous 
to his excursion to Qlendalough or 
Arklow, to which latter place he 
may, if he choose, proceed by the 
rly. Rte. '1\\ , running between Bray 
and Enniscorthy, but by this means 
he will lose half the beauty of the 
route. 

Conveyances. — Rail to Wooden 
Bridge, Arklow, Enniscorthy, and 
Dublin. 

Distances. — Ashford, 10 m, : 
Wooden Bridge, 8; Wicklow,8; Ark- 
low, 12; Meeting of the Water-. 3; 
Drumgoff, 7: Laragh, 7; Seven 
Churches. 8; Roundwood, 12; Anna- 
moe, 9J; Devil's Glen, 11 ; Bray, 2; 

The road to Wooden Bridge and 
Arklow now follows the high ground 
on the rt. hank of tbe Annamoe, 
into the lovely valley of which the 
traveller gets frequent peeps. Pass- 
ing Avondale ( — Edwards. Esq. and 
Kingston House, the magnificent 
situation of Castle Howard R.Brook . 
Kx[. is the principal object of atten- 
tion, together with the exquisite view 
of the Vale of Avoca and the M< etimr 
of the Wat. ire, described in Moon - 
well-known stanzas. 

•• The meeting " is at the conflu- 
ence of the Avonmore and Avonb 
which here unite in their course to 
theses at Ark-low. When seen from 
above the vale is cbanning, though 
it must be confessed that tourists often 
feel a certain amount of disappoint- 
ment in it. ;i necessary result when 
any place or thing has been exagge- 
rated : and were it not for the immor- 
tality conf< rred on A* oca bj [reland's 
jM»it. it would have simply ranked 
oe out of the hundreds <>f pretty 
valley- in tlii.- di.-triet. M<t< ,.v. r the 
boH charm about it is rather dispelled 
by the new rly. from Rathdrum to 
< ton v. an 1 by the fad that the vale 



214 



Route 24. — Dublin to Arklow. 



Ireland. 



has become the scone of very consider- 
able mining operations. " The metal- 
liferous clayslate district occupies but 
a small space, being very narrow in 
breadth, and not more than 10 m. 
long from Croghan-Kinshela on the 
S. to W. Acton on the N. At va- 
rious depths occur beds of what is 
known as soft ground, containing one 
or more layers of copper pyrites, va- 
rying in thickness, and sometimes 
acquiring a breadth of several fathoms. 
Five of such beds are met with, one 
in Connoree, two in the old or upper 
mine of Cronbane, one in the new 
mine, and one in Tigroney." — Kane. 
These 3 mines are on the E. side 
of the Avoca, and on the W. are 
those of Ballyniurtagh, which have 
yielded a great deal of copper. As- 
sociated with the copper lodes are 
beds of bisulphuret of iron, which for 
many years was an actual impedi- 
ment and detriment to the work ; but 
owing to an exorbitant tariff placed 
on the article of sulphur by the Nea- 
politan Government, the iron pyrites 
became very valuable as an article 
from which to extract the pure sul- 
phur. "The copper -ore at Bally- 
murtagh contains at least 30 per cent, 
of sulpliur-ore ; and the greater part 
of the pyrites workings in the same 
mine contain about 2 J per cent, of 
copper." The presence of the sulphur 
is abundantly manifested in the yel- 
low colour of the soil and of the 
stream. Neither is it unpicturesque ; 
but at one spot near Ballyniurtagh, 
whore an immense cliff stands boldly 
overhanging the roacj, it produces 
effects of great beauty from the rich 
colouring of the metallic stains on 
the face of the rock. 

30 m. at Newbridge is a very pretty 
new ch. Continuing down the vale, 
and passing 1. Ballyarthur House 
(Col. Bayley), the tourist arrives at a 
second and far more beautiful meet- 
ing of the waters at 33 m. Wooden- 
bridge, where there is a comfortable 
little hotel. 

The valleys of the Aughrim and 



the Gold Mines rivers here fall into 
that of the Avoca, which turns to the 
S.E. to join the sea at Arklow. 

[A branch rly. runs up the Au- 
ghrim valley, which contains some 
good scenery in the vicinity of Aughrim 
bridge and Rodenagh bridge, where 
the two streams of the Ow and Derry 
join to form the Aughrim. At the 
head of the valley of the Derry and 
surrounded by hills is Tinndhely, a 
neat little town belonging to Lord 
Fitzwilliam, whose seat of Coolattin 
is about 3 m. to the S. Adjoining 
it, and indeed forming part of the 
property, is the wood of Shillelagh, 
famous for having given its name 
to the pet weapon of the Irishman, 
whose talent for head-breaking would 
at once be destroved were he de- 
prived of his shillelagh. As the 
greater portion of the wood was cut 
down about 1693 to supply the iron- 
works of that period, only a few 
plantations are left, Except for the 
scenery, Tinnahely offers no induce- 
ment for a visit. 

The stream of the Gold Mines has 
but a short course from the sides of 
Croghan Kinsheela, a mountain that 
"at one time obtained a large degree 
of notoriety from the discovery of gold 
in such quantities that it was be- 
lieved to be a perfect El Dorado. " It 
occurred in massive lumps, and in 
small pieces down to the minutest 
grain; the gold was found accom- 
panied by other metallic substances 
dispersed through a kind of stratum, 
composed of clay, sand, gravel, and 
fragments of rock, and covered by 
soil which sometimes attained a very 
considerable depth in the bed and 
banks of the stream. The total 
quantity of gold collected by the 
Government workings, in about 2 
years, was 945 oz., which was sold 
for 3675Z. ; but the cost of the work- 
ings and of various trials made in 
search of the original deposit of the 
gold exceeded the return, and the 
operations, having been interrupted, 
were not again resumed by Govern- 



Ibei 



Route 24. — Military Road. 



21 



ment. It hj - I en calculated thai at 
least L0,< OOZ. was paid to the country 
►pie for gold collected before Go- 
fn ruiiu nt took possi Bslon : the gold 
was associai 1 with magnetic iron- 
- me, iron pyrites, brown and red 
hematite, manganese, and fragments 
' -e ine in crystals, together with 
quartz." — Karu 

Dig i from Wooden Bridge : — 
Tinnahely, 12 m. ; Aughrim, -IV: 
Rathdrum, 8; Arklow, 4. the road to 
which place is replete with beauties 
of wood and river, passing between 
the demesnes of rt. Glenarl Gastle, 
the Beat of the Earl ofCarysfort, and 
1. Bhelton Abb y, a tx autiful Gothic 

Earl of Wicklow, 
built from designs by Morrison, 
'• im ant to conv< y to the spectator 
• idea of an ancient abbey, changed 
Reformation, into a baronial 
In the interior are a 
autiful hall and Baloon, Leading 
into the cloister gallery, by which 
the chief apartments are approached. 
TJ ire Borne good paintings and 

.. fine library, the greater portion of 
which v. I by Lord Chan- 

dor West. Visit allowed to 

i th( _ unds. Passing rt. 
ine li. Eodgson, Esq.) and 
I . :. ' : town, thi risi arrives at 
m. Arklow J: ■ .] 
Ti who pn fers a wild 

mountain route instead of the ahel- 
iiv. r valley b, may take a eir- 
from Rathdrum to 
I hurch( b by the Gr< 
Bfilil ry Eft • d, joini ._ il al I >rum- 
; 1 1 ■ ks, 7 in. This fine work 
was complete d w i 1 1 1 a view to open- 
ing up ; ■ - si 3se& of t. k- 
low B j !.. troublous til 

:• bellion, and thus enabling 

la military and police 

quickly throuj district. 

immi i the hilly country 

N : Tinnahely, and 1 1 

dn S, to the 1 1 : A - 

1 .;. - , Dnn I . . . and 

< for the n If!' d 

. ; t 



theheighl of L600 or 1700 ft. above 
the sea, and hut seldom descendin 
to any of the valleys. Prom ( Hen- 
cree ii continues over the Killaki e 
Hills (passing Killakee House, the 
residence of Mrs. White, from when< e 
one of the finest possible views is ob- 
tained over the Dublin plain), and 
finally ends at Rathfarnham. From 
Drumgoff a road runs W. to Duola- 
vin : this is a good route from which 
to ascend CiUgnaquilla, which towers 
on the 1. to the heighl of 3039 ft. ; 
the view extends a marvellous dis- 
tance, especially on the S. into Wex- 
ford, Waterford, and Coi k. 

The return from Rathdrum to 
Duhlin Bhould be through the west< rn 
portion oftheco. of Wicklow, following 
upwards the stream of the Avonmor 
the read runs through thick groi - 
of wood, at a considerable height 
above the river. to3 m. Clara Bridge, 
an extremely pretty village at the 
bottom of the Vale of Avonmore, on 
the sides of which rise Trooperstown 
Hill, 1408 ft., on rt., and Kirikee, 1559 
ft., on 1. Nearly at the head of t. 
vale, at the entrance of the grouu 
ofDerrybawn [Mrs.Bookey ,thegreat 
military road i.> joined, 1 m. from 
which, at Laragh, a road on 1. turns 
sharply off to 8 m. Jordan's Hotel, 
a v ry comfortable and romantic 
n sting-place in the immediate vicinity 
of t tie Seven ( Ihurchi s and the \ 
of < rlendalough. 

Two vall< ys fall in at this point 
from the N.B.— the Vale of Gl< - 
dasan, a river which has a coura 
about '•'> m. from Lough Nahanagan, 
and tin Valeof Glendalough,the upp r 
portion of which is watered bya small 
stream, the ( I lenealo, thai di a 
from its rocky fastnesses in the Table 
Mt. to fall into the upp r and lev 
laki - ; the so □ rj of thi up] c 
lak< is of a v- rj grand characl 
On the N . I aii b [i i y, 229t 

and "ii ti, 8 ■ - 176 It., 

rise in fine • | »m< ata from I 
brink of ti ppn achi 

n ly n er at il.* hi ad 



216 



Route 24. — Dublin to Arldow. 



Ireland. 



to leave a passage for the moun- 
tain torrent that feeds the lake. The 
lower lake is much smaller, and 
the valley is much more open ; but 
the presence of the round tower and 
the deserted ruins gives it an aspect 
of weird melancholy quite indescrib- 
able—an aspect very much enhanced 
if the clouds are lowering over the 
head of the lake, 

" whose gloomy shore 



Skylark never warbles o'er." 

and throwing dark shadows over the 
pass. Before exploring any of the 
ravines and glens in the neighbour- 
hood, the visitor will of course bestow 
his attention first of all on the eccle- 
siastical ruins of the valley. 

The foundation of the city of Glen- 
dalough may be ascribed to St. Kevin, 
who as early as the 6th cent, founded 
a ch. on the S. bank of the upper 
Like, from which he subsequently 
removed to the opening of the valley. 
Even in the 12th cent, the city is 
described as having lain waste for 40 
years, and being a veritable den of 
robbers, " spelunca latronum." The 
objects of interest may be divided 
into 3 groups, according to their situ- 
ation. 

Immediately at the back of the 
hotel is an enclosure containing the 
ruins of the cathedral, Our Lady's 
ch., St. Kevin's House or Kitchen, 
and the Round Tower. 1. The en- 
closure is entered by a magnificent 
though terribly dilapidated gateway, 
which Dr. Petrie compares to the 
lloman-built Newport gate at Lin- 
coln. In form it was a square, having 
i eternal and internal arches, from 
between which rose a tower. Enough 
of it remains to show the undressed 
blocks of mica slate and the cliiselled 
granite blocks of the arches and 
pilasters. 2. The cathedral is con- 
sidered to have been erected about the 
commencement of the 7th cent., pro- 
bably by Gobhan Saer, the great archi- 
tect of that day ; the original ch. was 
55 ft. long, but the chancel appears to 



be of later date. It is entered by a 
square-headed doorway, in which the 
weight upon the lintel is taken off by 
a semicircular arch. The masonry of 
the chancel is much less massive than 
that in the body of the ch., and more- 
over is not bonded like that of the 
nave, thus showing its more modern 
erection. The E. window was re- 
markable for its ornamented character, 
possessing a chevron moulding and a 
sculptured frieze running on either 
side from the spring of the arch. It 
is worth notice that the stone of which 
this E. window is built is a sort of 
oolite not found anywhere in the dis- 
trict. 

3. The ch. of Our Lady is believed 
to have been the first erected in 
the lower part of the valley or the 
city of Glendalough by St. Kevin, 
"qui ibi duxit vitam eremiticam," 
and was buried here. It possesses a 
remarkable doorway, of a style re- 
sembling Greek architecture. It is 6 ft. 
high, 2 ft. 6 in. wide at the top and 
3 ft. at the bottom, being formed 
of 7 stones of the thickness of the 
wall ; the lintel is ornamented on its 
soffit with a cross, " saltier wise," 
somewhat after the fashion of Kil- 
liney fp. 208). 

4. The Kound Tower, which stands 
at one corner of the enclosure, close 
to the cathedral, is about 110 ft., and 
is deficient in the conical cap. It has, 
a semicircular-headed doorway with- 
out any ornament, and " is constructed 
of blocks of granite, chiselled, though * 
the wall of the tower generally is 
formed of rubble masonry of the mica 
slate of the adjacent mountains ; and 
in this circumstance it resembles the 
doorways of several chs. in the val- 
ley." Its probable date is the 7th 
cent. 

5. The most interesting feature in 
the enclosure is the cell of St. Kevin. 
The tourist who has visited Kells 
(Bte. 16) will at once recognise the 
great similarity between St. Columb's 
house and St. Kevin's, although the 
latter has been to all intents and pur- 



ILAND. 



B : 24, — Qlendatough, 



217 



poses changed into a ch. by the sub- 
[ueot addition of a chancel and bell 
turret, neither of which in all proba- 
bility belonged to the original build- 
ing; this chance] has been destroyed, 
bnl it will be perceived on close ex- 
amination that the walls of the ad- 
joining sacristy are not bonded into 
those of the main building. " It will 
>be rved also that the chancel-arch 
la of subsequent formation; for its 
aicircular head is not formed on 
the principle of the arch, but by the 
cutting away of the horizontally laid 
nes of the original wall, in which 
operation a portion of the original 
window placed in this wall was de- 
1. and the remaining portion of 
th< rture buili up with solid ma- 
sonry." — Petri Divested of thes 
Kitions, we find that St. Kevin's 
- an oblong building with a 
ry high-pitched stone roof, an 
arched room below, and a small croft 
. A stringc >urse runs at the 
of the roof, and is carried along 
the h the end wall. It was en- 

t : I by a door on the W. side, and 
d by 2 plain windows in the E. 
d. one above the other, and one in 
the S. wall ; the door, winch is now 
block* d up, was square-headed, with 
the weight taken off the lintel by a 
semicirc -* in the cathedral 

Rising from the W. gt - 1 »1« ■ is 
ldition ofa small round-towered 
. with a conical roof 
and i agular apertures faring 

I points. The entrance 
•ft. 

ipparently similar 

chancel, b< ing Btone-roof d 

unented with a rude string- 

>urse similar to that of the main 

_r. 
I' I l ■ Dr. Petrie that 

ldition * i place nol 1 
death 81 Kevin, wh< 
e was held in such n ace 
turalh _di it was » Ufirhl 

bis n aidence into a ch. 
dng chs. are ;ill al 
li* - 6.1 

[li /.] 



eh., near the road leading from La- 
ragh to Glendalough. In the chancel 
wall is a semicircular-headed window, 
the arch cut out ofa single stone — ■ 
also a triangular - headed window; 
the chancel arch is semicircular, 
and springs from jamhs " which 
have an inclination correspond!] 
with the doorways and windows." 
A round lower was formerly at- 
tached to this ch. 7. Ontheopposit 
hank of the river, near Deriybawn, 
are the ruins of St. Saviour's, or the 
Monastery, which possess more inter- 
esting details than any of the other.-. 
The chancel contains a stone Beal at 
the E. end, and 3 niches in the S. 
wall, which probably served for pis- 
cina or ambry. The piersonly of the 
chance] arching are h ft, and, before 
the ch. became so dilapidated, must 
have shown some very interesth 
and beautiful sculpture. It consisl 
of 3 "receding piers with semi- 
columns," and the capitals and bases 
should be carefully studied for the 
sake of the fantastic sculptures of 
human heads and animals — a not 
uncommon decoration of the 12th 
cent, of Irish architecture.* Dr. Led- 
wich, whatever his authority may be 
worth, considered that all this oro 
mentation was of Danish origin; but 
Dr. Petrie holds that we are to look 
for the prototypes in the debased ar- 
chitecture of Greece and Borne. Si- 
milar sculpture and beauty of detail 
existed in the Priest's House, of which 
however there is now scarcely any 
v. Btige. 

8. The ch. of Eecfert, situated on 
the S. bank of the upper hike, w. 
the " clara cells " first founds d by B 
Kevin before he moved t.> the low< r 
pari of the \a!h \ . It contains a 
squan -headed doorway of chisellc 1 
blocks of granite, and aeai the ch. 
stood • a, i m:ii kinj 

>1 of the «•' in tery of the B 
whi re the celebrate a King < > "i 

• Simfl ' Clon- 

ic 



21S 



Route 24. — Dublin to Arlclow. 



Ireland, 



is said to be buried. Still further, 
near the cliff of Lugduff, arc — 10. 
the very scanty remains of the cli. of 
Teampul na Skellig. 

It is a charming woodland walk 
along the S. bank of the lakes, and 
at the foot of Derrybawn Mountain, 
where the Osmunda regalis flou- 
r i shes. At the back of the inn, which 
is situated just between the 2 lakes, 
the tourist should ascend Lugduff 
brook for a short distance to see the 
Pollanass waterfall : and having 
visited Keefert and Teampul na 
Skellig, should cross the Causeway 
and take boat on the upper lake to St. 
Kevin's Bed. " This wonder-working 
couch is a small cave in the face of a 
rock, capable of containing 3 persons 
at most, hanging perpendicularly over 
the lake ; the approach is by a narrow 
path along the steep side of the moun- 
tain, at every step of which the 
slightest false trip would precipitate 
the pedestrian into the lake below. 
After passing the Rubicon of the 
Lady's Leap, the landing-place im- 
mediately above the cave is soon 
reached without difficulty ; but the 
visitor must descend with caution, his 
face turned to the rock down which 
he climbs, while the guide directs 
which way he is to turn, and where to 
plant his foot, until at last he reaches 
the mouth of the sainted bed."- — 
Otway. Here it was that St. Kevin, 
to escape from the 

" Eyes of most unholy blue " 

of Cathleen, who loved him not wisely 
but too well, fixed his hermit's couch, 
fearing an interruption : — 

11 ' Here at least,' he calmly said, 

' "Woman ne'er shall find my bed.' 
Ah ! the good saint little knew 
What that wily sex can do." 

Moore. 

But she traced him out, and St. Kevin 
woke one morning from his sleep to 
find her watching his countenance. 
He rose, and with a sudden impulse 
of madness hurled ]x>or Kathleen into 
lake : — 



" Down gazed he frenzied on the tide. 
Cathleen ! how conies he lonely? 
Why has she left her Kevin's side, 
That lived for Kevin only V 

Gerald Griffin. 

Should the tourist have time, he 
should make an excursion up the 
Glendasan valley, and past the Lug- 
ganamon lead-mines (which are 3 m. 
distant from the 7 chs.), to the summit 
level at Wicklow Gap, 1569 ft., from 
whence he will obtain very fine 
mountain views. The road from this 
point continues to Blessington and 
the plains of Kildare. 

Distances of the Hotel — from Bray, 
19 m. ; Koundwood, 6 ; Annamoe, 
3J; Laragh, I; Bathdruni, 8; Lug- 
gelaw, 11 ; Wicklow Gap, 4 J ; De- 
vil's Glen, 8 : Sally Gap, 13. 

On the return, the road is re- 
traced and followed to Laragh. 
Passing 1. Laragh House (G. Booth, 
Esq.), and winding up a steep and 
long hill, the village of Annamoe is 
reached, adjoining which is Glenda- 
lough, the seat of T. Barton, Esq. 
Between 3 and 4 m. to the ft., and 
visible from the road, is the entrance 
of the Devils Glen. The tourist 
should visit the reservoir of the 
waterworks lately formed for the 
supply of the city of Dublin (p. 213). 

Roundivood (Hotel: Murphy's), a 
prettily situated village on the banks 
of the Vartry. This is a favourite 
place with many, the quarters being 
comfortable, and the situation central 
for Glendalough, the Devil's Glen, 
and Luggelaw. It is moreover a 
good fishing station. In the neigh- 
bourhood are Eoundwood Lodge and 
Koundwood Park (T. Gower, Esq.). 

From Koundwood 3 routes are avail- 
able : — 1. A direct road to Bray, run- 
ning through Calary, skirting the 
deer-park of Powerscourt, and cross- 
ing the Dargle at Tinnahinch 
Bridge (p. 210). 

2. A bleak mountain road to the 
E. of this last, which steers clear of 
Powerscourt and Enniskerry, and 
winds round the Great Sugarloaf, 



Irelai 



Soute 25. — Dublin to Corl\ 



219 



felling into the Bray road near llolly- 

tk. 

3. A more circuitous route, by turn- 

in lt off to the 1. at Anna Carter Bridge, 

■ 1 following the road to Luggelaw. 

From Bally Gap, where the military 

road is joined, it is 5 m. to Glencn 

The i' 1 -irian Bhould not leave 

Boundwood without visiting Lough 

Dan, which bo may do either by 

proceeding to the Old Bridge, and 

thence walking up the Annamoe 

ri\ - by turning off from the 

Luggelaw road mar the Poliee- 

i, and following the Annamoe 

a n. 1. >ugh Dan is a rather Long 

of water, 685 ft. above the s 

latedina hollow between themoun- 

Ins or' Knocknacloghole and Blieve- 

ickh : it is G d by the Annam 

and 1 rivers, the former of 

which discharges itself at the lower 

>f the lake, near the d< smesne of 

! . :k< View, Although a characteristic 

luntain lake, it does not possess tlie 

rn and more romantic beauties of 

Lough Tay, which is some 2 m. to the 

N.. a:.d occupies a circular oorrie 

nearly at the head of the gleu of the 

A- The cliff Boenery here is 

atrastswith 

tip ounds of L iw, 

Kc n treat as far away from 

th hum of men as any hermit 

. i wish, " A monstrous bee of 

lion is distinctly traced 

in f the rock, looking 

toomily and angrily on the lake 

The ey< brows, broad and 

marked by no ad 

liii.iiT i :id 

tiy formed by 

in the rock." — Wright. 

I Orobanche major, 

• rside, 

is an inhabitant of this 

of < U< ndalough, 

l\ \]\c WiV tli.it St. 

11 nt a cell I. w, 

;il dr tu- 

I ! a I tnd Lug£ 

-i the hank of the 



Annamoe, and on the SAW *\t\c of 
Douce and War II ill, to join the mili- 
tary road jil Sally Gap. At the 
height of 1700 ft. is the watershed 
of the Annamoe and the Liffey, the 
source of which last is but a very 
short distance from the Gap. From 
this point the military road runs at 
an a\< rage elevation of 1700 ft. past 
Liough Bray to Glencree. 

The route from Enniskerry to 
Dublin is carried on Iho W. Hank 
of Sliaukhill Mountain, through 
a wild and singular ravine known 
the Sea!/), which appears to have 
been rout by some tremendous shock, 
le iving only just room for the forma- 
tion of the highway. Huge masses of 
granite are tossed about and piled up 
in picturesque confusion, affording a 
strong contrast to the other glens 
which the tourist has visited. A 
little further ou a cromlech may be 
visited at Mount Venus, which is 19 
ft. in length and 11 in breadth. The 
table-stone, like that of Howth, has 
been dismounted. 

Passing through the village of 
Rathfarnham 'lite. 1) the tourist soon 
reaches Dublin. 



ROUTE 25. 

FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, BT THE 
GREAT SOUTHERN AND WESTERN 
RAILWAY. 

Ra1 er more than half of In] 
lb travem d by th< i isl in about 7 

which in its ap- 
utmentfl ment 

l 2 



220 



Route 25. — Dub 1 in to CorJc. 



Ireland. 



ranks amongst the first in the king- 
dom. It was commenced in 1844, 
under the engineering superintend- 
ence of Sir John McNeil, and was 
opened for the whole distance to Cork, 
165 m., in 1849. The country through 
which it runs exhibits a very fair 
specimen of Irish scenery, being for 
the most part a vast expanse of rich 
grazing land, relieved by groups of 
mountains, and occasionally a genu- 
ine bog, as dreary and melancholy as 
only an Irish bog can be. The stat. 
at Kingsbridge, at the S.W. end of 
Dublin, is a fine, though somewhat 
florid Corinthian building, consisting 
of a central front, flanked on each 
side by wings surmounted by clock 
towers. The interior is graceful and 
convenient, and covers an area of 2J 
acres. Gliding out of the stat. the 
traveller catches a glimpse on the rt. 
of the Phoenix Park with its con- 
spicuous Wellington obelisk, and on 
the 1. of the Royal Hospital of Kil- 
mainham, and passes rapidly through 
the locomotive establishment at Inchi- 
core, where the cleanly and even tasty 
appearance of the buildings and offices 
w r ill attract attention. 

2 m. rt. 1 m. is the village of Cha- 
pelizod, bordering on the Phoenix 
fRte. 1), and 4 J m. 1. the round 
tower of Clondalkin, nearly 1 m. from 
the stat. ; but as this forms a fa- 
vourite excursion from Dublin it has 
been described in Rte. 1. 7 m. 
Lucan stat. ; the village of the same 
name (Rte. 14) being 1J m. on rt. 
and nearly midway between this and 
the Midland Great Western Rly., by 
which the visitor may return to 
Dublin after inspecting Lucan and 
Leixlip. 

2 m. 1. of the stat., crossing the 
Grand Canal, is Castle Bagot (the 
seat of J. Bagot, Esq.). As the 
train gains the open country, tlie 
beautiful ranges of the Dublin 
mountains are very conspicuous on 
the 1„ and for the whole distance 
to Kildare form a most charming 
background to the landscape. They 



may be considered as the frontier 
belt which guards the lovely county 
of Wicklow. 

10. Hazelhatch stat. 1J m. rt. is 
Celbridge, where dwelt Esther Van- 
homrigh, the ill-starred Vanessa of 
Swift. Celbridge Abbey (C. Lang- 
dale, Esq.), the place of her residence, 
was originally built by Dr. Morley, 
Bp. of Clonfert. On the same side 
of the LifTey is St. Wolstans (R. 
Cane, Esq.), with its ancient gate- 
way, and on the opposite bank is 
Castleton, the magnificent seat of 
T. Conolly, Esq., M.P., conspicuous 
from its obelisk (Rte. 14). 

[2 m. I. of the stat. is the village 
of Newcastle, formerly a royal borough 
of James I. The ch. has a good E. 
window. 4 m. Bathcoole, very pret- 
tily situated at the foot of Slieve 
Thoul, which rises to the height of 
1308 ft.. About 4 m. to the E. are 
the inconsiderable ruins of Kilteel 
Castle and ch .] 

Before arriving at 13 m. Straff an 
stat., the line passes L Lyons Castle, 
a beautiful seat of Lord Cloncurry. 
The house, which consists of a centre 
range, flanked by semicircular colon- 
nades, is placed in a wooded park at 
the foot of Lyons Hill, 631 ft. The 
interior contains a fine gallery of 
sculpture. Between Lyons and Rath- 
coole to S.E. is Atligor, in the 
grounds of which is the old keep of 
Colmanstown castle. Straffan is a 
pretty village on the 1. or N. bank of 
the river, which here approaches 
pretty close to the rly. In the 
neighbourhood are Straffan House 
(H. Barton, Esq.), and Killadoon 
fthe Earl of Leitrim). 2 m. 1. of 
the stat. is Oughterarde, where (on 
the summit of a steep eminence) are 
ruins of a small ch., the crypt being 
used for a burial-place of the Pon- 
sonbys of Bishop's Court; also the 
stump of a round tower with a circu- 
lar-headed doorway 10 ft. from the 
ground. 

18 m., near Sallins Stat., the 
line crosses the Grand Canal, This 






Ireland. Routt 25. — Naas — Phoul-a-phooia, 



_. 



w >rk. which, when commenced in 

15. waa justly considered as the 
finest work of the day, was Bet on foot 

supply inland navigation to the 
t 'Wus and districts between Dublin 
and the Shannon, and is carried from 
the nit tropolia to a spol called Shan- 
non Barbour, near Banagher Rte. 

. The main line, together with 
1 branches and an extension t<> the 
Suck, at Ballinasloe, is 161 m., 'the 

unit lev* 1. 'JT'J t't. above the sea. 

inpr at Robertstown, 26 m. from 
Dublin. The annual tonnage of 

rchandize carried on the canal 

1,000 tons, producing t«.ll to 

amount of 2O,0OOZ. a year." — 

7" 9 Dm dory. B yond Sallin> 

ranch is given off to N as. [•"» m. 

the Liffey i bridj 

"i lna.in, " ;i 

t . where a Franciscan abbey, 

f which still r in tins, was 

raid Fitzmaurice 

in the L3th centy. A tittle further 

Roman Catholic college of 

. a fine quadrangular 

\ flanked by 4 towers at the 

igles.] 

I. of Sallins Btat. 1^ m. is 
r n House, t e seat of 

I . »] i Naas : - i Puncheston, la- 
- for it- steep] ch i» s. [From 
dins a car runs daily to Dun- 
through 3 m. Na 
j»r N . which ■_ i title 

ly of . and i isy 

little m of :'> n| »'> [nhab., 

jh not so brisk as in the dav- 
it lay in the nigh 
lam. rick. 
M*K Tt La 

d one of the old 
a in Ireland, and the royal 
<»f ti - of Lein- 

1 was in b flourish] ite 

np ' ■ f the \'.\\<-. ] 

and :*. or 1 abl 
noli 

antiquity 
: tfa whi 

Id their 
y La built 



the site of the castle. " 1 m. on the 
Lim< rick road is Jigginstone Eloue 
a spacious brick mansion, commi nc< 
by the unfortunate Karl of Strafford, 
but never finished, the walls of which 

and the vaulted cellars, from the 
excellent quality of the bricks and 
cement, are still in a very perfect 
state.' 1 — Leu-is. After all, the chiet 
attraction of Naas is the splendid 

range of hills which approach near 
enough to tempt the pedestrian to a 
ramble into North Wicklow and the 
source of the Ldffey]. 

In the neighbourhood are Foren- 
aghts Dean Burgh and Oldtown 
House T. De Burgh, Esq.). 

Excursions. — 

1. Blessington. 

2. Phoul-a-phooka. 

[The l<»vcr of the picturesque 
should notomit to visit the waterfall of 
Phoul-a-phooka on the Ldffey, which 
is 2 m. beyond the little town of Bally- 
more Eustace, and 5 J to the S. of 
Blessington. It is a succession of 
magnificent cataracts, by which the 
Liffey descends from the hills to the 
valley, of 150 ft. in height. 

" Whilst the broad river, 

Foaming and hurrying o'er i?v rugged path, 
Fell into that immeasurable void, 
Scattering its waters to the passing winds." 

The middle fill is the finest : at itsbat 
is the basin or pool, which has given its 
name to the fall, in conjunction with 
the Phooka, the Puck of Irish Legend. 
•• Th< greal objed of the Phooks 
to obtain e rider, and then 1«' is in 
all hismosi malignant glory. Head- 
Long he dashes through brier and 
brake, through U"<>d and fell, over 
mountain, valley, moor, or riv< 
indiscriminately; up or down preci- 
is alike to bim, provided he 
aiti. - the malevolence thai - 
inspire bim. A - the ' Tinna 
olane,' or Will-o'-the-wisp, he Lh 
hut to betray; Like the I tanoverian 
• Tnckbold, 1 he deludi a the night 
wanden r into a bog and l« 
to hie ' ruction in b quagmire 
pit." — Hatt. A single-arched lai-i 



222 



Route 25. — Dublin to Cork. 



Ireland, 



crosses the stream at the Falls, from 
which, as well as from Lord Miltown's 
grounds, the best views are to be ob- 
tained.] 

Distances. — Sallins, 3 m. ; Bless- 
ington, 8 ; Newbridge, 1 1 ; Phoul- 
a-phooka, 9. 

[The Liffey is crossed at a prettily- 
wooded spot, bordered by the de- 
mesnes of Harristown (J. La Touche, 
Esq.), Newberry (H. M'Clintock, 
Esq.) , on the N. bank, and Sallymonnt 
(0. Roberts, Esq.) on the S. 2 m. rt. is 
Kilcullen, a queer rambling village, 
" which tumbles down one hill and 
struggles up another" on either 
side the river, here crossed by an 
ancient bridge. The antiquary will 
find an attraction, 2 m. to the S., 
in Kilcullen Old Town, which, pre- 
vious to the building of the new 
town in 1319, was a strong city forti- 
fied by walls and entered by 7 gates. 
There are some scanty remains of the 
abbey founded for monks of the Strict 
Observance in the 15th centy. ; also 
part of a round tower and the shaft 
of a cross, divided into compart- 
ments and sculptured with figures. 
A little to the W. is a very large 
circular fort, known as Don Ailline. 

From the Liffey, at Sallymount, it 
is 5 m. to Dunlavin.] 

The Grand Canal, or rather the 
branch to Naas, is crossed a second 
time after leaving Sallins, as is also 
the LirTey (which for the next few 
miles keeps to the 1. of the line), by 
a timber bridge, 270 ft. long. 

25 J m. Newbridge stat. The fre- 
quent presence on the platform of 
bearded and moustached warriors be- 
tokens the proximity to the cavalry 
barracks, which are about the most 
extensive in Ireland, and accommo- 
date a large number of men and 
horses, pvilcullen, 5 m., may be 
more conveniently visited from 
here than from Sallins, and by keep- 
ing on the rt. bank of the Liffey, 
the antiquary may inspect the ruins 
of the Priory of Great Connell, or 
Old Conal, founded in 1202 by 



Meyler Fitzhenry, who stocked it 
with friars drafted from Llanthony 
Abbey. A part of the E. gable and 
some mutilated tombs still remain. 
In its prosperous times, the priors of 
this abbey ranked as Lords of Parlia- 
ment, and enjoyed many privileges 
unknown to abbeys of poorer means.] 
Soon after leaving Newbridge, the 
line skirts the Curragh of KUdare, 
and the traveller may obtain occa- 
sional peeps of the block huts of the 
encampment. " The Curragh is a 
magnificent undulating down, 6 m. 
long and 2 broad ; it lies in a direc- 
tion from N.E. to S.W., having the 
town of Kildare at its western ex- 
tremity, and crossed by the great 
road from Dublin to Limerick ; and 
is in fact an extensive sheepwalk of 
above 6000 acres, forming a more 
beautiful lawn than the hand of art 
ever made. Nothing can exceed the 
extreme softness and elasticity of the 
turf, which is of a verdure that 
charms the eye, and is still further 
set off by the gentle inequality of 
the surface; the soil is a fine dry 
loam on a substratum of limestone." 
— Lewis. Geologically speaking, this 
fine loam is nothing but drift, about 
200 ft. in thickness. 

There are but few early remains 
in it — and these only of an ancient 
road running nearly parallel with 
the high road, and a chain of small 
raths. It has been the scene of many 
an encampment prior to the perma- ' 
nent establishment that occupies it 
at present : in 1646 by forces under 
General Preston ; in 1783, by volun- 
teers ; and in 1804, by 30,000 insur- 
gents. At present several regiments 
are constantly quartered here, and 
the camp presents the same civilised 
means and appliances that exist at 
Aldershott. We must not pass the 
Curragh without alluding to its 
races, which both from its pecu- 
liarly springy turf, and the oppor- 
tunities afforded to spectators, have 
long held the first rank in the esti- 
mation of Irish sportsmen. They are 



I LAND. 



Boute 25. — Kildare, 



223 



held four times a year — in April, 
June, September, and October. 

80 in. KM Rte. 26 , Kil- 

dara, M the ch. of the oaks," an im- 
portant junction, whence the line to 

flow, Kilkenny, and YVaterford is 

Yell Off 

The town {Hotel: Railway) 
has a venerable age, and con- 
tains sufficient to interest the an- 
[iiary. As early as the 5th centy. 
Bridg< t founded a monastery, of 
which Black Hugh, kins: of Lein- 
-t- r, who had donned the AugUB- 
tine habit, was abbot The history 
of Kildare from ii> commencement 
of the 18th centy. i- 
nothing but ;i series of raids, tires, and 
a, •• oa [ue ad nauseam," 
principally at the hands of Dai 

1 Dative Irish. The bishopric, now 

united with the archbishopric of 

iblin, i tia' time of St. 

Bridget, and was always somewhat 

t i I icnation of 

est various times. The dio- 

the county of Dublin 

I the . iter part of Kildare, 

Ki ad Queen's Counties. The 

elf is small and poor, and, 

were it uot foi tin- h duster 

of aitiquit rould not be worth 

ing visit. 

tolerably close to the 

d consisi o abbey, the 

•ir of wl used aa a parochial 

Bound Tower, The 

cruciform in shape, con- 

f nave, choir, and transepts, 

pringing from the 

i — but of this "lily the 

part of the W. wall remains. 

- lighted by Early Point' I 

wl and in th<- choir ifl the 

till of the i arls of Kildan . \!j<»in- 

aecell known as the 

"' i ' where the Sen d 

— 









mp that shoiv in KOdfl 



li_ fonndi 

e burnt without intern 
siou from the i 13th, 



when it was extinguished by Henry 
de Londres, Archbishop <>t' Dublin. 
It was subsequently relighted, and 
continued so until the general sup- 
pression of monasteries ; — 

" Apud Ivildariam occurrit funis Sanctffl Bri- 
gidaa, quern inextinguibllem vocanl ; non quod 
exttngui non posslt, s<<t quod tam soliclte 
montales el sauna' mulietes iguem, suppetente 
materia, fovenl el nudiunt, ul a tempore \ ir- 
graispertot annorum curricula semper man* 
>it Inextlnctus." — <;iraldus Comb. 

The round tower adjoins the eh., 
and is remarkable lor its --rent height 
of 1:50 ft., the summit being crowned 
with a modern and very inapposite 
battlement. The chief interest i 
in the doorway, which is II i'l. from 
the ground, and consists of '■'> con- 
centric arches, adorned with very 
beautiful chevron or zigzag mould* 
ings, and a diagonal panelling on the 
inner arch. From this unusual fea- 
ture, the age of this tower lias been 
set down as of the Anglo Norm, 
time; but Dr. Petrie contends that 
from the legends of Giraldus Cam- 
brensis atid others, this tower was 
considered to be of great age in the 
12th centy., and while allowing the 
mouldings to be of Norman character, 
he only sees in this fact a proof that 
these ornaments are of considerably 
anterior date — at all events in Ire- 
land—to what they are usually con- 
sidered. A number of brae teate coins, 
or laminar pieces of silver struck 
only on one side, were found under 
the floor. As Bperlingrius and others 

nix- these coin a- 12th centy., 

tin- held to be :i proof Of the l:ii' 

erection of the tower; but on the oth< 
hand Dr. Petrie proves thai minted 
money was used in Erel md from 
very remote period— even at the time 
of the introduction of ( Jhrisl ianity. 

The visitor who ifl sufficiently in- 
terested in the discussion will find it 
: in Petries work on the 
' Round i 

\ (tie, erected 

by I > \ < -i in the i;;th cent 
In the ch. are the sculptured shall 
.i mutilafe d <:: . : - i: . In- 



224 



"Route 25. — Dublin to Cork. 



Ireland. 



teresting monuments of knights and 
ecclesiastics. 

To the S. of the town are scanty 
remains of an abbey, founded in the 
13th centy. by De Yesci for the order 
of Grey Friars. 

From its open situation upon a ridge 
of hills, Kildare commands a wide- 
spread prospect, embracing on the 
W. a portion of the great central 
limestone plain of Ireland, in the 
direction of Monasterevan and Port- 
arlington ; while to the N. are the 
Red Hills — a small chain, about 
7 m. long, of old red sandstone 
intervening between Kildare and 
Kathangan. The most conspicuous 
points are Hill of Allen, in the N.E., 
676 ft. ; Dunmurry Hill, 769 ; and 
the Grange, on which is the Chair of 
Kildare, 744. But the geological 
structure of the Chair itself consists 
of a narrow bed of limestone associated 
with a protrusion of lower Silurian 
shales and grits, with porphyritic 
greenstone, from 400 to 1000 ft. 
thick ; the beds very much tilted 
and disturbed, and having suffered 
much from denudation prior to the 
deposition of the lower carb. lime- 
stone. Many Silurian fossils have 
been found here, viz., some from 
the limestone of the Chair, and others 
from the red slates of Dunmurry Hill 
— orthoceras, ilsenus, phacops, some 
gasteropodous shells, and corals. 

Distances : — Monasterevan, 6 J m. ; 
Kathangan, 6; the Chair, 4; the 
Camp, 3. 

Leaving on 1. the line to Carlow 
and Kilkenny, we arrive at (30 J m.j 
Monasterevan (Hotel: Drogheda 
Arms , a small town of one street, 
lying on the banks of the Barrow, 
which at this point makes a wide 
sweep from the S. to the W. to- 
wards Portarlington. The rlwy. 
crosses the Grand Canal and also 
the river by a fine viaduct 500 ft. 
long, constructed of thin bars of mal- 
leable iron. A monastery, founded 
on the ruins of a still more ancient 
house, was established by Dermod 
O'Dempsey, king of Ophaley, in the 



12th centy. Upon the site of it now 
stands Moore Abbey, the Gothic re- 
sidence of the Marquis of Drogheda, 
whose beautiful woods extend for 
some distance on the banks of the 
island-covered Barrow. 

The entrance-hall is said to have 
been the room in which Loftus, Vis- 
count Ely, held a court of Chancerv 
in 1641. * 

The ch. of Monasterevan is a fine 
old building, with a square tower, a 
rather unusual feature in Irish 
modern churches, which almost al- 
ways have spires. 

Distances. — Portarlington, 5 m. ; 
Ballybrittas, 4. 

Still through the flat plain the line 
runs westward, keeping parallel with 
the canal and Barrow to 41 £ m. Port- 
arlington, the point of junction for the 
Athlonebranch. (Hotel : Portarlington 
Arms). The town, with its graceful 
spired ch., is some little distance to 
the rt. It formerly possessed the 
singular appellation of Cootletoodra. 
from which reproach it was rescued 
by becoming the property of Lord 
Arlington, temp. Charles II.. Until 
of late years there were a number of 
descendants, resident in the town, of 
French and Flemish refugees, who 
settled here at the beginning of the 
16th centy. It is neat and well- 
built, and contains 2 churches — the 
one generally called the French ch., 
from its having been originally 
appropriated for the use of the 
refugees. The Barrow here sepa- 
rates Queen's from King's County. 
Amongst the residences in the neigh- 
bourhood of Portarlington are Bar- 
rowbank House (W. Humphreys, 
Esq.), Lawnsdown (J. Scott, Esq.), 
Woodbrook House (E. Chetwood, 
Esq.), and about 5 m. to the S. Emo, 
the splendid domain of the Earl of 
Portarlington, who takes his title 
from this town. The interior of the 
mansion is worth seeing, and is re- 
markable for its beautiful fittings and 
decorations. 

The antiquary should visit Lea 
Castle 2 m. to the E., situated 



i i v\n. Souti 25. — Mountmeflick — Tullam 



— — 



tween the river and the canal. 

In sequence of its central posri- 

i. and it- contiguity to the Pale, 

L - early defended by a strong 

r 98 - rected by De Veaci in 

12 I . which underwent much rough 

treatment between the English lords 

1 the Irish chiefs, " It was built in 

the usual Btyle of the military archi- 

h •tare o( the times, consisting of a 

tadrangular building i->( 3 stories, 

■ I by round bastions, of which 

but 1 now remains. The outer 

entrance, which is still in good 

preservation, consisted of a gate 

d I nded by a portcullis, the whole 

surrounded by a tower. In the rear 

r ballium, in which 

ori and tilt-yard." — 

W m. The last inhabitant of 

1 . noted horse-steaL 1 1 f the 

of I » mp •• y. who converted the 

alts underground into stables, and 

d on a flourishing trade. 

8 me 4 m. to the B. of Lea on 

d from Monasterevan to 

M iryborough is BaUybrittas, a small 

vii . the locale of a battle in 

1 zab ith's reign between the Earl 

army and the Irish under 

0"D The latter were vic- 

and cut off so many feathi 
from tic English helmets, that the 
nrards called "the 
P 

Hill is conspicuous m 
Portarli t< >n, from an obelial ted 

\ I i mploy- 

r during 
reity. 

1 > A: , . . fcfary- 

i _ : M (untmellick, 
1 . 5 ; M 5. 

/. . — 

1 1. 

M an. 

Bail 1 1 

! ilone. < 
[.1/ 11 but I'U y 

y Burrounded by the ri 
fcfout -•■ 
M Lick, "the gn en island.' 1 Quak 



have settled here, and. as they usually 
do, have contributed principally to 
the prosperity of the place. Near it are 
Knightstown Maj. Carden), Qarry- 
hinch House [\l. Warburton, Esq, . 
and Killeen.1 

[The branch line to Athlone. con- 
necting the Great Southern with the 
Midland Great Western, passes for 
the greater part of its course through 
a very hare and desolate district, a 
good portion of il 1" ing included in 
the famous Bog of Aihn. A few 
word- respecting the [rish bogs will 
not be out of place. Mr, Moore 
divides them into n <h brown, black, 
and mountain bog, tin- difference 

Colour and COn818t nee dep< n. li i 
chit fly on the locality, according - 
the substances vary in degrees <>t 
moisture, temperature, and altitude. 
Red and brown bog are hast valu- 
able for fuel, and are supposed to 
have been formed on the Bites of ex- 
tensive lakes or wet mora—' - as 
infers from the small quantity ofwo< 1 
found in it. Sphagnum con>iitu 1 
a considerable portion of the sub- 
stance of the peat, and the roots and 
branches of the phanerogamic plants 
form a kind of framework, and bear 
up the cryptogamic Bpeci The 
black bog contains most woody m. 
ter, and i> believi d i<> have hi ■ 
formed on the site of ancient forests. 

dm. OeashiU Stat. The little town 
of thai name lies about 2£m. tort, and 
has some remains "t" a castle of I 
«»'l>. mpseys, who formerly held all 
this territory. ( h a-!. ill ( Sastle i> the 
f 'I'. Trench, Esq. 

1 * ; tii. Tutlamort Pop, 1797 //<</</: 
< :: 1. ville A ran as in the 

desert, in the Bhape of a w< Unbuilt 
thriving country town, containing the 
usual r\\ il and municipal building 
such a , court-houi 

Tin re is oo1 much in i!.< 

neighbourhood save the very pn 

rk "t" the Earl of Charleville, 

dch unit..- all the ntials 

:• Landscap , in wood, 

omental v and a Sfa 

L '6 



226 



Route 25. — Dublin to Corlc, 



Ireland. 



running through n glen. There are 
Severn 1 small castles, or rather for- 
tified houses, in the district round 
Tullamore, showing that, however un- 
prolific the country, the early settlers 
thought it worth defending. 

The Grand Canal passes through 
the town, and a trip may be taken by 
it to the former capital of King's 
County, PhilUpetovm, 9 m. distant, 
and in a still more boggy situation 
than Tullamore. It was formerly the 
centre of the district of OrTaley, and 
of course possessed a castle, erected 
in the 16th centy. by Sir William 
Brabazon, Lord Chief Justice of 
Ireland. 

Excursions. — 

1. Phillipstown. 

2. Rahin. 

3. Tullamore Park. 

Distances. — Kilbeggan, 7 m. ; Phil- 
lipstown, 9 ; Clara, 8. 

5 J m. is the Abbey of Rahin, partly 
used as the parish ch. It was founded 
in the 6th centy. by St. Carthach or 
Mochuda, afterwards Bp. of Lismore, 
and is remarkable for its archae- 
ological details. The visitor should 
notice the chancel archway, which 
consists of 3 rectangular piers on each 
side, rounded at their angles into 
semi-columns, and adorned with 
capitals elaborately sculptured with 
human heads. The original E. 
window is gone, but lighting a cham- 
ber between the chancel and the 
roof is a remarkably beautiful round 
window, with ornaments in low relief. 
The antiquary should compare the 
decorations of the capitals with those 
at Timahoe. There are also ruins 
of 2 other chs., one of them contain- 
ing a doorway with inclined jambs 
f indicative of early Irish architecture), 
and an arch adorned with the charac- 
teristic moulding so like Norman. 

24m. Clara is on the banks of the 
Barrow, and surrounded by several 
nice estates, as Clara House (A. Cox. 
Esq. , Woodfield (J. Fuller, Esq.), 
Ballvboughlin, and Belview. The 
soft and pulpy nature of the red 



bog was curiously exemplified in 
1821 at a spot 2 m. to the N., when 
a bog burst its bounds, and flowed 
for 1J m. down the valley, covering 
150 acres. A branch rly. runs in 
here from Streamstown, a station on 
the Midland Great Western. 

Passing m. rt. Hall House and 
Castle Daly, the line soon arrives at 
39 m. Athlone (Rte. 14). Hotel: 
Bergin's.] 

On leaving Portarlington the travel- 
ler will observe that the extensive 
plain through which the line has 
passed has given place to a ridge of 
hills on either side — that on the 1. com- 
mencing near Lea Castle, and running 
nearly due S. These are the Rocky 
Hills, the highest point of which 
is Cullenagh (1045 ft.), broadly sepa- 
rating the valleys of the Barrow 
and the Nore. On the rt. are the 
Slieve Bloom mountains — a very im- 
portant chain, occupying the area 
between Maryborough, Parsonstown, 
and Roscrea. The highest points 
are Ridge of Capard, 1677 ft. ; Slieve 
Bloom, 1691 ft. ; and A rd Erin, 1733 
ft. At the foot of the former is Bally- 
fin, the beautiful Italian mansion and 
grounds of Sir Chas. Coote, Bart., who 
purchased it from the family of Pole, 
the original possessors. 

Following the broad valley thus 
indicated, the train arrives at 50 J m. 
Maryborough (Hotel: Fallen's), the 
capital of Queen's County, which 
although boasting a corporation of 
the time of Elizabeth, looks un- 
usually modern ^Pop. 2935). It is 
neat and well built, and has some 
remarkably spacious buildings, such 
as the Lunatic Asylum, the joint pro- 
perty of Westmeath, Longford, King's 
and Queen's Counties, erected at an 
expense of 24,000/. The objects of 
antiquity embrace only a bastion 
of the old castle ; but the Rock of 
Dunamase, 3J m. on the road to 
Stradbally, is worth a visit. 

The summit of this rock, 200 ft. 
high, is entirely covered with the 
ruins of a castle, at one time 



I VXD. 



Route 25. — Timclmc — Devil's Bit, 






the property of Strongbow Earl 
of Pembroke, who acquired it 
by marriage with the daughter 
Dermod McMurrough, King of 
Leinster. Its chief points are a 
watch-tower defending the S. W, 
and most accessible side; an outer 
1 an inmr court : the whole being 
surrounded by thick walls, which 
were fortified at intervals with towers. 
Ii was eventually destroyed by 
Cromwell, and a small tump on the 
1 '.. u -till known as Cromwell's Lines. 
[Fr<>m the rock it is 2$ m. to 
Stradbally, a pleasant little town on 
tli- : ie, a tributary of tlie 

N< re. It is bounded on either Bide 
the parks of Btradbally B. Cosby, 
P . Brockley J. Young, Esq.), 
and Ballykilcavan A. Walsh, Esq. . 
tor may thence pursue his 
journey to Athy Rte. 26), 8 m. 
distant, may return to Mary- 

rough by a detour to the B., so as to 
the Round Tower of Timahoe, 
Lning some unusual and interest- 
tures. It derives its name 
T< aoh-Mochoe from St. Mochoe, who 
1 in the Gth centy. About 
30 ft. only remain, fortunately, how- 
aaing a very beautiful 
»rway, "formed of a hard silicious 

ing of 2 divi- 

d from each other by 

p rev< al, and presenting each 

compound r d arch, 

ting on plain 3, with flat ca- 

-. ' — J N fti.ee particularly 

■ manni r in which the floor ric 

!i by steps, and then study 

ratio] eh. The capitals 

human beads, 

Iso the . with tl 

addition of an hourglass. T Bit 

;i pellet and bead 

The b cond or middle 

•li is orated with human 

i, and r»n the SOffit with a di;i- 

Qelling of chevron moulding. 

; he \\". and B. ca pi I 
dhTer in «y in which th< 

96 d. 

11 LUg the antiquity of th 



decorations, Dr. Petrie remarks 
"Of these capitals decorated with 

human heads we have examples as 
old as the 6th centy. in the Syriao 
MSB. of the Gospels. They are used 
in the earliest examples of Ro- 
manesque architecture in the German 
chs., of which a beautiful example, 
remarkable for its similarity in. design 

to seme of those at Tinialioe, is found 

at St. Ottmar's chapel at Nurnbe 
assigned to the lot 1 1 cen The 

archaeologist will recognize the sum- 
larity of the capitals to those at 
Rabin.] 

( km veyancee from Maryborough. — 
Kail to Dublin and Cork; ear to 
Abheyhix and Durrow. 

Excursions. — 

1. Eoek of Dunamase. 

2. Timahoe. 

3. Athy. 

Distances. — Stradbally, 6 m. ; Ab- 
beyleix, 0; Timahoe,?; Dunamase, 
3J; Mountrath, 9£. 

GO m. Mountrath stat., the town 
being 2!, m. to rt., and situated on 
the Mountrath river, a tributary of 
the Nore. 2 m. to the S. is CasUe- 
ton, on the Nore, which obtained 
its name from a fortress garrisoned 
by Sir Oliver Norris, son-in-law oi 
the Earl of Ormond, to curb the 
power of the Fitzpatricfc In the 
neighbourhood are Westfield Farm 
(J. Trice, Esq. , andMoorfield Hon* 
R. Bi oior, Esq.). 

jeing the planted hill of Knock- 
ahaw, which forms pa"rl to 

of Liflduff Rt, lion. J. Fitzpatrick . 
the line reaches 

in. BaUybrophy, from whence 

a branch of 22 m. lea 'f to 

Roscrea, Parsonstown and Nenagh 

Rte. 27 • Near th.- stat. is JJaliy- 

brophy Hon 

A- the train glides on through 
the open plain we com.- in sighl 
the Devif'fl nit 1572 a singular 
chain of mountains nsir] • 3 

1 mil- W. of Templemore, 

i exhibiting ;> v. ry marked gap at 
the summit, This is accounted for by 



228 



Route 25. — Dublin to Cork. 



Ireland. 



the fact that the Prince of Darkness, 
in a fit of hunger and fatigue, took a 
bite at the mountain, ana, not find- 
ing it to bis taste, spat it out again 
some miles to the E., where it formed 
the rock called nowadays the Rock 
of Cashel. 

79 m. Templemore (Hotels : 
Queen's Arms ; Commercial), sup- 
posed to have originated, as its 
name implies, with the Knights Tem- 
plars. It is a pleasant town, and 
has thriven well under the auspices 
of the Carden family, whose resi- 
dence, the Priory (Sir John Carden), 
is hard by. In the grounds is a 
gable end of the old monastic ch., en- 
tered by a round-headed doorway and 
lighted by a Gothic 2-light window ; 
also the remains of a square keep of 
the ancient Templar fortress. The 
mansion is modern, and the grounds 
are very prettily ornamented by a fine 
sheet of water, and backed up in the 
distance by the picturesque range of 
the Devil's Bit. 

In the neighbourhood of the town 
are Belleville, Woodville (D.Webb, 
Esq. ), Lloydsborough (J. Lloyd, Esq .), 
and, under the range of the Devil's 
Bit, Barnane, the residence of John 
Carden, Esq. 

* Conveyances. — To Dublin and 
Cork by rail. 

Distances. — Nenagh, 20 m. ; 
Thurles, 8 ; Borrisoleigh, 6 ; Devil's 
Bit, \\. 

[Borrisoleigh, or Two-mile Borris, 
is a small town, with a ruined castle 
and fort; considering, however, the 
immense number of ruins in the 
county, it will scarcely repay a visit. 
Fishmoyne is the residence of ano- 
ther branch of the Carden family.] 

81 in. 1. Loughmore, close to the 
rly., is the old castellated mansion 
of the Purcells, consisting of 2 mas- 
sive square towers, connected by an 
intermediate dwelling of the time of 
James I., which, together with the 
N. tower, would seem to have been 
an addition to the remainder. As 
the tourist journeys on through 



the great limestone plain he ob- 
tains beautiful distant views, if the 
weather be clear, of Slieve-na-man 
and the Conxmeragh Mountains in 
the W. 

A little further, on the same side 
of the line, is Brittas Castle, the 
modern Norm, mansion of Col. Knox ; 
soon after which he arrives at 

87 m. Thurles (Hotel : Boyton's), 
sacred to every Roman Catholic 
as the seat of the Archbishopric, 
and the spot where the famous 
Synod was held. It is of no mo- 
dern extraction, but was famous as 
early as the 10th centy. for a great 
battle between the Danes and the 
Irish. (Pop. 4866). As the town in- 
creased and prospered, a castle 
was erected some time about the 
12th centy., the keep of which, a 
fine old tower, guards the bridge 
across the Suir. Another fortress, as- 
cribed to the Templars, and part of 
an old monastery, existed in the 
town ; though, as regards ruins, it 
is mentioned that within the last 
40 or 50 years there were the ruins 
of 7 castles in this single parish. 
Thurles abounds in colleges and 
schools, maintained by the agency 
of the Roman Catholics. The ca- 
thedral is a very handsome building, 
and has a good organ. 

Conveyances. — Car to Clonmel 
daily. To Kilkenny, through Ur- 
lingford, daily. 

Distances. — Cashel, 12 m. ; Urling- 
ford, 11 ; Holycross Abbey, 3J. 

[It is a charming drive to Holy- 
cross, the road being just sufficiently 
elevated to command a view over 
a prettily wooded country, with a 
background on the S.E. of the Slieve- 
naman and Waterford mountains, 
and on the N.W. of the Devil's Bit 
range. Crossing the rly. a second 
time, we approach the Suir as it 
runs lazily through its sedgy bank3 
and arrive at Holycross, the most 
venerable abbey in the S., and per- 
haps in all Ireland. 

It is beautifully situated amidst a 



I LAND. 



7?< uie 26. — Hotycro88 Abbey, 






thick prove of wood on the banks of 
the river, which kept the worthy 
monks well supplied with their fa- 
vourite diet "This place was dis- 
tinguished as tlu' site of a Cistercian 
- iv. founded in honour of the 
1 ' >ly «•]• — . of which a portion is said 
to have been preserved here by 
I» raogh Oarbragh O'Brien, King of 
Limerick, who in 1182, endowed it 
with lands constituting an earldom, 

I conferring the title of Earls of 
Holy Gross upon its abbots, who 

re hanms of Parliament and usu- 
ally vicars-general of the Cistercian 
order in Ireland." — L< wis. 

Tic abb. v however was i ally 
found dby Donald O'Brien, the father 
,i Carbragh. 
■ • ruins are very extensive, and 

►and in elaborate detail of such 
ature as to deserve very 

eful attention. The plan of the 
ch. was cruciform, consisting of nave 
with aial 3, choir, transepts, chapels, 
and a tower springing from the junc- 

n of the choir with nave. 

The nave parated from the 

X. aisle by round-headed, and from 
the S. by pointed arches, and is 
lig ted by an exquisite 6-light win- 
d <w. The X. aisle is divided in two 
bya round arch, crowned by a sculp- 
tured head, and i- continued to the 

od of tli.- u . -. . . Thi 8. aisle 1 
a beautiful window close to the B. 
blocked up save in the 
upper mullions. The N. transept is 

the Ch. : attache 1 to it . 

"ii the E., and an aisle 
on the W. running parallel with the 

( i of these ch 
a groined roof and a 3- 

window of different design 
in the second chapel ; 'but 
th< in a short p 

which runs betw< . a ted 

double row of i 
th twisted pills The i 
is Little sanctum is also i laborately 
- though th< turces of 
s architect had b< en taxed to the 
ut it It has l • 



supposed that this passage was used 
for the temporary resting-place of 
the bodies of the monks previous to 

burial. Leading from the X. transept 
is a stone staircase and a deeply re- 
cessed doorway entering a room full 
of mouldings. 

The S. transept is also divided off 
into two chapels, each of which con- 
tains a piscina and groined roof, 
although they have not the mortuary 
passage. The windows here again 
differ from each other in design, 
constituting one of the most singular 
features of the abbey. "The choir 

arch is not placed as usual beneath 
the tower, but •><) ft. in advance of it, 
thus making the choir of great* r 
length by 1 I ft. than the nave, which 
is but 58 ft. long, the entire length 
of the ch. being 130 ft. This pecu- 
liarity appears, however, to be an 
afterthought and not the design of 
the original architect, which was evi- 
dently to limit as usual the length of 
the choir to the arch in front of the 
tower, and the second arch is un- 
questionably of more modern con- 
struction." — 1\ 

The roof of the steeple tower 
is also groined and supported 
by graceful pointed areh< The 

choir is lighted like the W. end 
by a 6-light window, the tracery of 
which should be particularly noticed. 
Tt contains an elaborate IVrp. monu- 
ment of the Countess of Desmond. 
This was usually considered to have 
been erected to Donagh Cabragh 
( >'Brien, but the Btyle of the tomb 

which is about the close of the 14th 

century, or Trans. \\ rp., at once for- 
bid- the supposition ; and the arms 
between the croekets of the aivhe> 

are those of the bona a of ( )r- 

mond and 1 )< smond. This fact too 

will r< concile the anachronism of 

the i n ction of the abbey by the 

iresaid Donald in 1 182, \\ 1 

whole style of tb<- abbey ie 

;' hundn -I y< ars lato r. ( kra- 

pling thi- with the position of the 

Dab, viz.. on the it. of the high 



230 



Route 25. — Dublin to Cork. 



Ireland. 



altar, the place assigned to the 
builder, it would be reasonably as- 
sumed that Holy Cross was rebuilt 
in the time of, and very probably by, 
the same person to whom the tomb 
was erected. A staircase leads from 
the N". transept on the roof, and is 
protected by a stone balustrade. On 
this side of the ch. were the offices 
and abbot's residence. The tower 
may be ascended by means of this 
staircase. A large grass - covered 
court adjoins the N. aisle, and was 
entered from without by a gateway 
and also from the N. aisle by a Norm, 
arch, now blocked. 

The visitor will also notice on a 
wall outside the abbey precincts an 
inscription and coat of arms. 2J m. 
S. of Holycross is the wooded 
eminence of Killough, and at the 
foot of it the old tower of Killough 
Castle. 

Adjoining the abbey are Holy- 
cross House, and, on the opposite bank 
of the Suir, Graiguenoe House (C. 
Clarke, Esq .] Before arriving at 
GooldVCross stat. the line passes 
the vicinity of a perfect cluster 
of castles — Milltown, Clonyharp, 
Graigue, and Clogher — all within a 
mile of each other. " The district of 
Upper Ossory, which the line now 
intersects, appears to have been en- 
compassed with a continuous circuit 
of these castles, each communicating 
with and commanding those next it, 
so as to form a chain of defence 
round the territory." — Wakeman. 

95 m. GoolcVs-Cross stat., from 
whence it is a drive of 5 m. to 
Gaslielt [passing ]J m. Longfield 
House, the residence of Chas. Bian- 
coni, Esq., to whose patient energy 
and foresight Ireland is more in- 
debted socially than to any living 
b ring. A short sketch of the won- 
derful manner in which this one 
man opened up seven- tenths of the 
country to civilization and commerce 
will be found in Introd., page xliv. 

2£ m. a very pretty landscape 
opens out at Ardmayle, where the 



Suir is crossed. On the 1. are the 
ruins of the castellated residence of 
the Butlers. It afterwards passed 
into the hands of the Cootes, the last 
proprietor having been hanged by 
Cromwell on the capture of the 
castle. 

On 1. is Ardmayle House (R. Price, 
Esq.). As the road mounts the high 
ground, the singular Rock of Cashel, 
" the outpouring of the Devil," as far 
as the rock is concerned, though the 
very casket of sanctity as far as regards 
the buildings on it, appear conspicu* 
ously in the foreground. 

Cashel itself {Hotel : Corcoran's) 
is a dirty town grouped at the foot 
and at one side of the Rock, which 
rises steeply and even precipitously 
to the height of about 300 ft. (Pop. 
4374.) The objects of interest 
are many and deeply interesting — 
they embrace : 1. the ecclesiastical 
buildings on the Rock ; 2. Hore 
Abbey below it; and 3. the Domi- 
nican Abbey in the town. The city of 
Cashel, as it is called by a charter of 
Charles I., dates from the early kings 
of Munster and the arrival of St. 
Declan, who in the time of St. Patrick 
founded a ch. here. It was an import- 
ant stronghold in those days, and was 
fortified bv Brian Boroimhe, although 
it was not until the 12th centy. that 
Cormac McCarthy, king of Desmond, 
built the chapel now known by his 
name. Henry II. in his Irish inva- 
sion received here the homage of 
Donald O'Brien, king of Limerick, 
the builder of the cathedral. Ed- 
ward Bruce also held a parliament 
on the Rock. The cathedral, how- 
ever, was burnt in 1495 by the fa- 
mous Earl of Kildare, who had a 
grudge against the Archbishop, and 
defended his conduct before the 
king on the ground that he would 
not have set fire to it if he had known 
the Archbishop was not inside the 
building. The seeming candour of 
this answer procured from the king 
his appointment to be Lord Lieu- 
tenant of Ireland. Having gained 



Ireland* 



BonJU 25. -Cashel— Cathedral. 



231 



tdnrission into the enclosure at the 
top of the R «k, the firsl objeel of 
in: ithedral, which I 

no western door, bul is entered on 
the B. by a pointed doorway and 
porch with groined arches. The ch. 
cruciform, with nave, transepts, 
choir, and a belfry, supported by 
beautiful Early Pointed arches, the 
clusfc red pillars of which arc all dis- 
orilar. Notice the sculpture on the 
capitals of the pillar-, both at the 
- and also of a small door- 
y on W. The nave is unusually 
>rt, but contains some interest- 
ing tnhih>. one of which is orna- 
d with curious Btucco-work, 
and another date 1574) with a good 
1 canopy. The S. transepl is 
d by an B. E. 3-Kght window, 
oilar t<» that in the X., but with 
ddition of a rose window, which 
►n of tlie middle arch. 
Is of these lights have been 
tilled up. 

- of sculptures in 

i on one 

i' the apostles, St. Catherine 

and John tie- Baptist, St. Michael 

St. Patrick, with shields of the 

B id Racket families; on the 

other St Bridget, the remaining 5 

apostles, and the t evang \ fcypi- 

I by 1 
* B. of the tr. 

1 witli a 2-light window under 

one dri] - portion of I 

jiiiid altar in the centre. In 

chapel is t! copbagus of 

Kii _ ■ < :, a.d. ! $, ad above it 

i- a oruc fbrion, which was discovered 

3h of the well. 

I i . incel is lighted by a lai 
EL window and some I lii* re 

alar aperture b betw< en 
the heads of these windows, differi 
en the X. and S, aid 
while all of them are quatrefoiled on 
itside. 

cammed t 1 ground- 
fluor ttli. drul we < lit- r 

th ful point d 

oh into Connac'fl Chap 1, at 



the hot preserved and most curious 
structure in the country ; combining 

the richest Norm, decoration witli 
the high stone roof. Amongst the 
peculiarities of this structure, are the 
absence of an original entrance door- 
way on the \\\ side (the present one 
being obviously of later date) : audits 
having botha northern and southern 
entrance : but the most remarkable 
a square tower at each side of 
the termination of the nave at the 
junction with the chancel, which 
thus gives the ch. a cruciform 
plan. These towers are of unequal 

height — that on the S. side, which 
wants it > roof, being about no ft. in 
height; while the other, includu 
its pyramidal roof is but 50 ft. 
The S. tower is ornamented with 8 
projecting belts or bands, the lowest 
being but 3 ft. from the ground, and 
a projecting parapet, apparently of 
later erection. The northern tower 
is similarly ornamented with bands, 
but exhibits only G instead of 8. Tin- 
walls of the body of the ch. are 
decorated with blank arcades of 
iiicircular arches, arranged in 2 
stories ; resembling very much the 
churches sculptured on tin.' marble 
fonts in Winchester Cathedral and 
in the neighbouring one of East 
Meon; and the lowest of th* 
incudes is carried round the 8, 
tower. — Petrie, On this same S, 
side is a very beautiful blocked 
doorway. It is circular headed, con* 
fanning 5 mouldings of the richest 

•in. >tyle, and showing on the 
lintel ti nlpture of an animal. 

"T.\c X. doorway, which was ob- 
viously the grand entrance, is of 

,i. i- gjze, and i> considerably 
richer in ita decorations. It ha 

parate columns and one double 
column, supporting a very elaborate 

•h moulding, and containing in 
the tympanum I culpture of a 

itaur shooting at a lion, as it to 

; .-mailer animal under the 
lion's tV. r." I . re are also 2 small* r 
doors, tl B. with an ornamented 



232 



Route 25. — Dublin to Cork. 



Ireland. 



architrave, and the N. with a chevron 
moulding. 

Internally the chapel is divided 
into chancel and naves, separated by 
a magnificent chancel arch, which 
can sis a singular effect from its not 
being quite in the centre. The 
roof is composed of semicircular 
arches " resting on square ribs, 
which spring from a series of massive 
semicolumns set at equal distances 
against the walls. The bases of 
these semicolumns are on a level 
with the capitals of the choir arch, 
the abacus of which is continued as 
a string-course round the building. 
The walls of both nave and chancel, 
beneath the string-course, are orna- 
mented with a row of semicircular 
arches, slightly recessed and enriched 
with chevron, billet, and other orna- 
ments and mouldings." — Waheman. 
There is this difference, that in the 
choir the arches spring from columns, 
but in the nave from square pilas- 
ters. These wall arcades are all 
decorated on their faces or soffits 
with zigzag mouldings, and the choir 
arch has one of its mouldings com- 
posed of heads. 

The columns are twisted in the 
quadrangular recess which serves 
for the altar, and which projects 
externally so as to create a third 
division. There are also 3 heads 
under the string-course occupying 
the blanks between the arches of the 
arcades. The archaeologist should 
Carefully study the divers ornaments 
and heads which cover the capitals 
both of the doorway and the ar- 
cades. 

There are two features which 
should not be omitted : 1. That the 
Chapel is not parallel with the cathe- 
dral, and that therefore its orientation 
differs ; 2. That above the nave and 
chancel, between the vaulted roof and 
the high stone roof, are apartments 
or crofts - that of the chancel being 
G ft. lower than the one over the 
nave. This latter contains a singular 
fireplace, with flues passing through 



the thickness of the wall. The croft 
at the E. end of the chancel is lighted 
by an unusual holed window. 

The visitor will now ascend 
the staircase from the belfry to 
the transepts in the thickness of 
the wall — the one in the N. leading 
to the round tower by a passage 
lighted by quatrefoiled windows. 
Here we arrive at the defensive por- 
tion of this ecclesiastic fortress, which 
could only be entered from the ch. ; 
but the doors in the staircase were 
protected by holes for the purpose of 
throwing molten lead.. The most 
ancient portion of the building is to 
be found in some offices above the 
W. end. Underneath is the cellar, 
surmounted by the refectory, and 
above that again is the dormitory. 
The round tower, at the E. angle 
of N. transept, built of freestone, is 
about 90 ft. high, and 56 ft. round, 
and is remarkable for the angular 
headed apertures formed of a single 
stone in the upper story. 

In the cemetery adjoining the 
cathedral is the Cross of Cashel 
raised on a rude pedestal, and sculp- 
tured on one side with an effigy of 
St. Patrick. Nor will the visitor 
leave the Rock of Cashel without 
drinking in the exquisite view that 
opens out in every quarter, embracing 
to the S. the rich scenes of the golden 
vale of Tipperary (more beautiful in 
its natural than its social features) 
backed up by the lofty ranges of the 
Galtee mountains, and more to the 
W. by Slieve-na-man and the Olonmel 
hills. Northward is the country 
around Thurles and Holy Cross, with 
the valley of the Suir and the Devil's 
Bit mountains in the distance. W. 
the dark masses of the Slieve Phelim 
mountains, between Cashel and 
Limerick ; while underneath lies the 
town grouped around the Rock, the 
ruins of Hore Abbey, and many a 
tower and ruined ch. 

II. — Of a similar date to the Cathe- 
dral on the Rock are the last-named 
ruins of Grey or Hore Abbey, founded 



LAND. 



Route 25. — Cashel — Ooity Mountains, 






- in 1272 by David 

M Cawell, Arch, of Cashel, and 

Lowed with the revenues of the 

id 8, whom he had expelled 

m the Rock. 

1; is a cross ch, of lancet Btyle, 
with Borne later innovations. The 
i ve is Long, consisting of 5 bays 
and a deep respond, and possesses 
aisles, though the piers are singu- 
!y plain, being perfectly square, 
relieved only by a chamfer, and 
without any capital or impost mould- 
ings. It is Lighted by a clerestory 
with quatrefoil window-. As at 
Holycross, a wall cuts the nave in 
two, though for what reason ii- is 
difficult to deto rmu 
T choir is short, and posa sses a 
me remains of arcad( 
It is lighted by a triple Lancet win- 
with insertions in the 2 side 
s, the upper portion having been 
d up. Tin- roof of the inter- 
- ction ined, though not with 

any elaborate detail. On either side 
the choir were two chapels; only 
the arches leading to them exist 
on tl 5. side; but on the N. are 
r. : of the chapel, containing a 

piscina, and some traces of vaulting. 
'!'•• '; i this i> another chapi I. 

1 with a pointed barrel vault, 
1 fnrt a ;i rectangular build- 

:, probably tin- chapter houfi 
i'wo late windows are ed a1 

the E2 end one ;i}«>\<- anotb r, 

usl have been 
once ;in upper floor, while two vault- 

ch angle, and 
the whole length, prove that 
this was not i lly tie- a 

T - in to bu 

riod portions were 
tie."— ( '. West. 
III. — T ' P iy [g 

1 ruin situate d amidsi a 
in the town, ft 
indow of the 13th 
ity., which may I d t.. I 

m thi 
- from any oth< r 
Hacket's Abbey, I M 



tery, is occupied by the modern Ro- 
man Catholic ch. 

Conveyances from Cashel.- Car to 
Goold's Cross. 

Distances. — Tipperary, 12 m. : 
Goold's-Gross, 5; Holy-Cross, 8}; 
Fethard, 10.] 

At 99fm. Dundrum Stat., the line 
passes through some verj fine and 
thick woods, enclosed in the de- 
mesne of Dundrum Yisct. Ilawar- 
den), a handsome Grecian mansion 
on the 1. of the line. 

The traveller will have finished 
nearly two-thirds of his southward 
journey by the time he arrives at 

l<»7 m. Limerick Junction, the 
" Swindon "' of Ir< land, as far a- bustle 
goes, though not in luxury and ele- 
gance. Nevertheless, the hungry 
11 voyageur " may obtain an excellent 
dinner in the quarter of an hour al- 
lowed for refreshments. A- the 
Waterford and Limerick line effects 
a junction here, all the trains to 
Duhlin, Cork, Waterford, and lame- 
rick start together, producing at 
stated times a busy scene. 

Distances. — Dublin, 107 m. ; Cork, 
58; Mallow, 37; Limerick, 22; Wa- 
terford, 55 ; Tipperary, 3; Clonmel, 
28. 

As the train continue- it- south- 
ernly course, the mosl conspicuous 
obj< cl is the Galty range, which em- 
braci - - >me of the highesl mountains 
in the B. of Ireland. In front, I 
Long hill of Slieve-na-muck, 12V6 Ft., 
extends Dearly E. and W., cut off by 
the Vale of Aherlow from the main 
ridge which ris< e \< ry stet ply, with 
deep clefts and gullies which are 
wi II seen from the rly. They extend 

far as ( llonmel, and their high 
points are Galtymore 3015 ft., and 

2703ft The former 
indeed, the highesl eminence be- 
! lUgnaquilla in < Sounty Wick- 
low, and the Killarney mountains in 
Kerry. They are formed geologically 
of old r< d sandstoni . 
vallej tin linn stone 1 1 

i > the n. of ti • SI i. is Bally* 



231 



Route 25. — Dublin to Cork. 



Ireland. 



kistcen House, a well-planted and 
handsome seat of Lord Stanley. 

Passing on 1. Moorsfort House 
(C. Moore, Esq.), we arrive at 117 
m. Knocldong, in the vicinity of 
which arc several ancient remains. 
On the hill adjoining the Stat, on 1. 
is the shell of a castle erected by the 
family of Hurley. From its position 
on Knocklong Hill a remarkably 
fine view is obtained. 

[A charming excursion may be 
made to Galbally, 6 m. from the 
stat., towards the Galtee mountains. 
Galbally is a finely-situated village 
on the Aherlow, a tributary of the 
Suir, mentioned before as cutting off 
Slieve-na-muck from the Galtees. 
This valley, being the only pass into 
Tipperary from the N". parts of Cork, 
was a constant bone of contention 
between rival chieftains, although 
the O'Briens and Fitzgeralds held 
it " vi et armis " for more than 300 
years. Very near the village is 
Moor Abbey, the remains of a Fran- 
ciscan abbey, founded in the 13th 
centy. by Donagh Carbrngh O'Brien. 
It is of E. E. date, and is con- 
spicuous for the lofty tower rising 
from the body of the ch. Following 
the course of the Aherlow are some 
demesnes finely situated at the foot 
of the mountains, viz. Riversdale 
(H. Massy, Esq.) and Castlereagh.] 

3 m. to the rt. is Hospital, formerly 
a locality of the Knights-Templars, 
which afterwards passed by gift of 
*Queen Eliz. to Sir Valentine Brown, 
who erected a fortress called Ken- 
mare. The hospital has passed away 
and the castle very nearly so, but in 
the ch. there is a figure of a knight 
in a niche of the chancel. A little 
to the E. is Emly, so far important 
that it was the seat of a bishopric 
prior to its incorporation with Cashed 
in 15G8. The see was one of the 
oldest in the county, having been 
founded by St. Ailbe, or Alibeus, in 
the 6th centy. Even before this it 
is mentioned by Ptolemy as " Im- 
lagh," one of the 3 powerful towns | 



in Ireland. In these modern days it 
has been principally remarkable for 
being the locale of a number of fac- 
tion fights between two parties call- 
ing themselves respectively " The 
Three-year " and " The Four-year 
Olds." 

Tipperary may, in the matter of 
buildings, be said to be the land of 
decay ; and nowhere will this be more 
forcibly brought before the traveller 
than at 

Kilmallock (anc. Cill Mocheal- 
logj {Inn : Sullivan's), 124 m., where 
nearly a whole town is marked 
with the desolation of nakedness. 
Although Kilmallock, or the "ch. 
by St. Molach," is known to have 
existed, and to have been im- 
portant, at an early date, it is not 
until the reign of Edw. III. that 
we find it received a charter, at 
which time it was surrounded en- 
tirely by fortifications and entered 
by 4 gates— St. John's, Water-gate, 
Ivy, and Blossoms-gate respectively. 
It would be tedious to recount all the 
sieges that the city underwent. It 
is sufficient to state that it was by 
order of Cromwell that the fortifica- 
tions were destroyed, from which 
date the place went to ruin. 

Kilmallock possesses sundry fea- 
tures over and above the usual de- 
fensive remains, as it was the resi- 
dence of many of the nobility and 
gentry who held their town houses 
within its walls, and it is this peculi- 
arity which imparts to the whole 
place such an aspect of fallen great- 
ness. A few Of these houses, dating 
from the time of James or Eliza- 
beth, still remain. 

"The plans are nearly all the 
same : they present 2 or more gable 
ends to the street, and are divided 
into 3 stories. The entrances, by 
spacious portals with semicircu- 
lar arches, open into small halls, 
which communicate with broad pas- 
sages that probably contained the 
stairs, whence there are doorways 
leading to the principal apartments. 



L VXD. 



J? uti 25. — Kilmallock. 



_ • >• ) 



Thr wii ■ of a Bquare form and 

- ;all m proportioD to the size of the 

. arc divided into compartments 
by one or more uprights, and some- 
times by a cross of stone." — Weld. 
T 2 mansions that still remain 
I to the Earl of Buckingham- 

- ire and the family of Godsall. 
Two of ti. gateways still exist, 
although one is used as a dwelling- 
house instead of a gateway, and 
through them pass the roads to 
limerick and Charleville. The lat- 
ter, formerly known as the Blossoms- 

. and a >m;dl portion of the walls, 

may Ik- traced connecting the 2 on 

ide of the town. The eh. of 

Sts, T< *< ;• and Paul stands within the 

id is partly used a.- a parish 

eh. I • ind s. tran- 

pt in mil 1 a choir -till used 

r service. The former is separated 

from an aisle by plain pointed arches 

from square pillars. The 

choir Sfhted by a 5-light lancet 

window. This cli. differs from 

chs. in the arram 
ment of the tower, which does not 
from the intersection, but is 
placed at the W. of the X. aisle, and is 
1 1 j r round and of 2 stories, and 

-'■Ah d by narrow pointed windows. 
I • old Bound Towers, 

•• upper portion being of bit. r 
probably repaired when the ch. 
•iilt. [n the body of the ch. a 
the Fitzgerald, Vernon, 
I K lly rami) ho flourished 

principally in the 17th centy. 

A - iall river runs round Kilmal- 
lock I id YV. 

ad the ruin- of the 
Dominican prior] . ie 6n< -t 

in Id ided in the H< 

iy. 1.-. Gilbert, 

i Saley. a lofty square 

tpported by exta m< ly narrow 

rora the centre of the 

r-li., which ,<1 p 

>d detail E. 

le. 

11 ren but it was I 

never of an oniain r, 



the ambulacrum having been formed 
out of timber." 

The choir is lighted by B really 
magnificent 5-lighl E.E. window 
of delicate and graceful design. It 
contains a canopied mural monu- 
ment, in which the moulding of 
the heads of the columns should 
he noticed. In addition to the E. 
window, the choir has (! Early 
Pointed windows on the S. Bide, 
The nave, of which the S. wall is 
destroyed, is lighted by a quatrefoil 
window inserted in a pointed arch. 
To the N. of the nave are the de- 
motic offices. The B. trans, had a 
window with tracery now blocked 
up) Bimilar to Holycross. It also 
contains a mural monument, the 
shafts of which arc ornamented with 
heads. 

The choir contains the broken 
tomb of the White Knights, "a title 
assumed hy a branch of the Fitz- 
geralds, or, as they are frequently 
called, the Geraldins, and, according 
to Camden, originating from the gri 
hairs of the founder of that line." — 
C. Cro]:er. 

The fortunes of the Desmond 
family, who owned more land and 
poss( — d more influence in Munster 
than any family b Or ai't* r them, 

are interwoven with the whole history 
Kilmallock, and indeed with that 

of the s. of Ere land, and have been 
the Bubjecl of many a tale from 

the wonderful address aial COUTag 

the hair-br< adth escapes, and the 
romantic career of many of 
members. Adjoining the town are 
Ashhill To 1 the residence of E. 

Eyre Evans, Esq. ; Mount Coo; 
< . Esq. i, and Ardvullen Hou 
I; v. d. ( iabbetl i, and aboul 1 m. 
distant, n< ar Kilfinnan, is Olanadfay 

I -tie, the ancient mm! of the 

Oliver family, hut now of Lord 

A-htown. sir ]]\ re < k>ote, i he con-* 

qu< H ler A li, wa itive 

holmallock; and I rd 

led Minor* 

British p 



236 



Route 25. — Dublin to Corlc. 



Ireland. 



Mount Blakency, about 2 in. on the 
Charleville road. 

Conveyances.— Car daily to Limer- 
ick. Car to Bruff and Kilfinane. 

Distances. — Bruree, 4 m. ; Bruff, 6; 
Charleville, 5. 

[The antiquary should make a 
visit from Kilmallock to Lough Gur, 
10 in. ; passing through, 6 m., Bruff, 
another of the principal towns of 
the Geral lins. It is situated on the 
banks of a river with the poetical 
name of the Morning Star, and pos- 
sesses a good E. Eng. ch. with an 
octagonal spire. In the neighbour- 
hood are Camus (F. Bevan, Esq.), Bag- 
got stown House (J. Bouchier, Esq.), 
andKilballyowen (W. O'Grady, Esq.). 

10 m. Lough Gur, a pretty lake, 
bounded by undulating shores, where, 
according to Irish belief, the last of 
the Desmonds is doomed to hold his 
court under its waters, from which 
he emerges at daybreak on the morn- 
ing of every 7th year fully armed. 
This has to be repeated until the 
silver shoes of his steed are worn 
out. A similar legend is told at Kil- 
larney of the O'Donoghue. Lough 
Gur is about 5 m. round, and, as 
it was the centre of the Desmonds' 
district, was guarded by 2 castles. 
One of them, a massive square 
tower, stands upon an island con- 
nected with the main land by a 
causeway. But by far the most in- 
teresting objects of Lough Gur are 
a number of early remains and 
circles, of which 100 are known to 
have existed within the memory of 
man. On the W. side are 3 stone 
circles, and near a ruined ch. on 
the shore is "Edward and Grace's 
Bed," an assemblage of rocks which 
had once formed a chamber, covered 
over with large flags. It was how- 
ever destroyed by treasure seekers 
after the death of an old woman 
who used to dwell in it. 

Near this is a cromlech, resting on 
4 supports ; also Carrigalla Fort and 
2 singular circular forts of very rude 
and large masonry. Many other of 



these primitive remains can also be 
traced in the neighbour] lood of the 
lake. The geologist should examine 
the limestone hill of Carrig-na-Nahin 
or Mass Eock, which is full of 
chasms.] 

129 m. at Charleville a direct line 
diverges to Limerick, saving in the 
journey from Cork a distance of 
19 m. In comparison with some 
other towns in this county, Charle- 
ville {Inn: Copley's) is modern, 
having been founded by the Earl of 
Ossory in 1621, and named out of com- 
pliment to the king ; it having been 
called before " by the heathenish 
name of Kathgogan." The Duke of 
Berwick dined here in 1690, and, as 
a delicate return for hospitality, 
ordered his men to burn it at his 
departure. 

Close to the town is Sanders Park, 
the seat of the Sanders family* 

[5 m. to the S.E. is Ardpatrick, 
with a few remains of an ancient 
monastery, said to have been founded 
by St. Patrick. There are also the 
stump of a round tower and a quad- 
rangular well, lined with stone. 
Sunville is the old residence of the 
Godsall family, who possessed one 
of the mansions in Kilmallock. About 
2 m. to the E. of Ardpatrick is Kil- 
finane, famed for the big rath out- 
side the town. 

It is " 130 ft. high, 50 ft. in di- 
ameter at the base, and 20 ft. at the 
summit, encircled by 7 earthen 
ramparts about 20 ft. apart, gradually 
diminishing in height from the inner 
to the outermost, which is 10 ft. high 
and 2000 ft in circumference." — 
Wakeman. 

As the rly. continues its course 
southward, a considerable range of 
mountains approach very closely on 
the 1., being in fact an outlying 
continuation of the Galtees, " which 
are here succeeded by a lower chain, 
generally known as the Castle Oliver 
Mountains, that form the striking 
boundary of the plain as far as the 
village of Kilfinane, whence its 



; : \.\n. 



Route *2.*). — Bidtcranf. 



237 



southerly Limits are continued by the 
Ballyhoura hills to Mallow." — Fivuer, 
Poll wing down the ?alley of the 
Awbeg, and passing 1. Velvetstown 
II use, v A' arrive at 137} m. Butte- 
vant, at one time famed for eccle- 

3tio and now for its military 

cupantB. 

The river Awbeg, which by the 
way is known for its lino trout, is 
celebrated by Spenser under the 
name of the Mullah or Mole : — 

Mulla. the daughter of OKI Mole bo bright, 
I nymph which of that watercourse 

1 it, springing out of Mole, doth run 

do* aright 
I Bottevant, where spreading forth at 

large 
I- _ eth name unto that ancient city 
-mullah cleeped is of old, 
mines breed great ruth 

which it from afar behold." 
Spenser. 

PI is parish was anciently called 

B I on, and is said to have derived 

it- present name from the exclama- 

'Boutez en avant' (Push for- 

w rd), used by David de Barry, its 

t<» animate his men in 

'lit -t with the M'Carthys, which 

ruently adopted as the 

lily it >f the Earls of Barry- 

more, wl <• derived their title of 

m this place." — /.' w 'i 

T3 d contaihs many interest- 

s, of which the chief is 

n abbey, founded, or 

1 only, by Dai id 

I >_ I '. nt the close of the' 13th 

[1 sists of a nave and 

r having fallen 

• • r L818. The W, end 

d by ;i pointed doorway, and 

d by 2-light windows, with 

.;■]" r portions M< ck< d up. In 

I I ano- 
pi • - and a ?ery singular 

t twi-P d Coluj ad 

the N. wall 
the choir arch oi 

'. ■■ r. lie I 

• left. I • choir is 

8 by .i 



Pointed windows, deeply splayed In- 
ternally. The middle one lias some 
delicate tracery. The E. window 
3 lights is of unusual pattern. 

Attached to the S. of the nave is 

a beautiful chapel to the Virgin 
Mary, containing tombs of the 
Barrys, Fitzgeralds, and ButL ra 
" The chancel being built on a steep 
bank of the Awbeg, is raised to the 
level of the nave by 3 crypts or 
vaults, the middle of which is sup- 
ported by a single pillar, so con- 
structed as to resemble 4, with 
fanciful and well-wrought capitals." 
Groker. A portion of adjoining 
towci- en cted by one of the 1). b- 

monds for the protect ion of the al b 
is incorporated with the modt rn 
Roman Catholic chapel, a hands* me 
cruciform building with a Bquare 
tower rising from the centre. 

Buttevanl castle is now modern- 
ized, and a residence of Lord Done- 
raile. It was originally called John's 
Castle, and formed a corner build i; 
at an angle of the wall. The view 
down the Awbeg, including Wig 
spire of the cli., which is within the 
grounds, is very charming, and t i 
tourist should not omit to stroll as 
far as the bridge, nearly opposite 
which ar«' BOme ruins of the old 
abbey of Ballybeg. 

There i.-> also in the town a Bquare 
tower, thai formerly belonged to a 
1«' of the Lombards. 

The modern buildings of Butte- 
vant are the barracks, which will 
rcely interest the visitor.} 

Distances.— Mallow, 7'. m.; Done- 
raile, \\\ Kilcolman, 6 ; Liscarroll, 7. 

[Following the course of I 

Awbeg, which eventually fells 
into the Blackwater, we arrive ;it 
I h,,u rati mall pretty town red 

h nt of association with KSdm 

- r, who had ;i pal l 
the neighbourhood, which was p 

\ from his Bon by Sir William 
St. 1 . l ' Rfunsti ' 

ign of ( I. In Lord 

D adjoining the 



238 



Route 25. — Dublin to Cork. 



Ireland. 



town, the timber is very fine, and the 
ilex is especially worthy of notice. 

Kileolman, the residence of the 
poet, is about 3 rn. to the N. of 
Doneraile, a little to the 1. of the 
road to Charleville. It consists of a 
single ivy- covered tower, on the 
margin of a small lake, and, it must 
be confessed, overlooking an ex- 
tremely dreary tract of country. 

To the N. of Kileolman is Ball- 
nivonear, the seat of J. Barry, Esq. ; 
and immediately behind are the 
Caroline and Carker mountains, 
1188 ft. 

Close to Doneraile are — Doneraile 
House (Lord Doneraile), Kilbrack, 
and Creagh Castle (G. Brasier Creagh, 
Esq.), in the grounds of which is the 
ancient tower of Creagh.] 

A car runs from Doneraile to 
Mallow. 

[7 m. to W. of Butte vant are the 
ruins of Liscarroll Castle, built in all 
probability soon after the Norman 
invasion. It is a massive square 
building, 240 ft. in length, flanked 
by 2 square and 4 round towers of 
great strength.] 

A charming landscape opens out 
as the line approaches, 145 m., 
Mallow {Hotel : Queen's Arms), a 
pretty English-looking town, seated 
on the banks of the Blackwater, 
beautifully wooded and besprinkled 
with many a pleasant villa. Mal- 
low was once fashionable, attract- 
ing visitors partly by its scenery 
and more by its spa ; but the usual 
caprice which attends watering- 
places has long since robbed it of 
its hypochondriacs and valetudina- 
rians. The castle is situated near 
the E. end of the town and on the 
bank of the river. It is the modern 
Elizabethan residence of Sir D. Nor- 
reys, and in the grounds is the square 
tower of the old fortress. The streets 
have houses with projecting bay win- 
dow- which give a quaint and old- 
fashioned look to the place. 

The residences in the immediate 

ighbourhood are numerous, and 



include, in addition to the castle — 
Bearforest, (J. A. Shiel, Esq.), Bally- 
ellis (K. Brasier, Esq.), Rockforest 
(Sir J. Cotter, Bart.), Bally garrett 
(W. Creagh, Esq.). 

Two important junctions occur at 
this stat. ; on the 1. to Fermoy, and on 
the rt. to Killarney and Tralee. 
(Rte. 31.) 

The fishing on the Blackwater is 
notoriously good, although after a 
flood the river becomes very dirty, 
and takes a long time to clear. The 
flies are large and gaudy. 

Conveyances. — Rail to Dublin, 
Cork, Fermoy, Killarney. Car to 
Killarney and Tralee, through Castle 
Island ; car to Doneraile. 

Distances. — Cork, 11m.; Blarney, 
5 ; Kanturk, 12 ; Fermoy, 17 ; Dro- 
maneen, 5. 

Excursions. 

1. Fermoy, Mitchelstown. 

2. Dromaneen. 

3. Abbey Morne and Blarney. 

4. Buttevant and Doneraile. 
From hence the line passes down 

the valley of the Clydagh, leaving on 
rt. Dromore House (A. Newman, 
Esq.). 

149 1 m. on 1. is Abbey Morne, 
once a preceptory of the Knights 
Templars, and a walled town temp. 
Edw. III. There is nothing very 
remarkable in the ch., which appears 
to have been defended by strong 
bastions. On the opposite side of 
the river is Castle Bassett, a tower 
belonging to a fortress built by the 
Bassetts. Soon the stream of the 
Martin shows itself, becoming more 
picturesque and wooded as we ap- 
proach 

1(30 m. Blarney, where it falls 
into the river of the same name 
amidst very charming scenery. 

Blarney Castle is nearly 1J m. 
from the stat., and the most conve- 
nient way of visiting it is to take 
a car direct from Cork. It was 
built in the 15th centy. by the 
McCarthys, who were themselves de- 
scended from the kings of Munster, 



i I.VNP. 



Route 26, — Dublin to Waterford, 



239 



.iml it underwent much rough treat- 
incut and many vicissitudes, not the 
Least singular of which is its being 
annually visit* d by thousands, at- 
tracted not bo much by the charm- 
ing sc< nery in which it is placid as 
the reputation it has gained for flat- 
tery and soft speeches. As regards 
the former, who has not heard of 

■ I he proves of Blarney 
Tt, charming 

Down by the purling 

Of sweet silent streams " ? 

Tin- main feature of Blarney Castle 

i square tower with a battlement 

an 1 machicolations; and below the 

oe, which, when kissed, 

[former with wonder- 

i. The difficulty 

a danger of reaching this 

hat another Blarney 

ibstituted on the 

1 1 r, w hi h, if the visitor beliei 

the guid< - pial power. 

•oik- there 
i ver k\- 

i 

•it 
'l - may elan. 
I - an her, 

e a member 
Of Parliament" 

II vii _ . ihausted the castle and 
I in the groves, bo well 

ilation 

tie the f 

wi o» d b ttter pro- 

idy-made dungeon ; 
TUgb, occunin do ii 

nation, they need nol 
sted witli any Bupern • 1 1 1 
I • tourisl will find 
I*. d 1 i 1 1 1 * - inn, Turkish 

1 Irish guides, who 

for M ■ 

A 

the rail to tii' outskirts of Cork 

■ ■ 



long limestone tunnel into the centre 
of the southern metropolis 

HoteU: Imperial, first-rate ; Vic- 
toria, pretty good. 



ftOUTE 26. 

FROM DUBLIN to CARLOW, KIL- 
KENNY, AND WATERFORD, BY RAIL. 

From Dublin to Kilkenny the 
tourisl travels by the Great Southern 
and Western Rly. as for as Kildare 

(30 m.) (lite 25), the Carlow line at 
this point branching to the S. and 
running down the valley of the Barrow. 

;'.'; m. 1. the old tower and modern 
demesne of Kildangan Castle Moore 
OTVrrall. Esq.), while about 2 m. 
on 1. are Monasterevan and the woods 

of Moore Abbey, the noble scat of the 
Marquess of Drogheda (p. 224). The 
general features of the country through 
which we are now passing are low, 
wet, and boggy, the land lying very 
little above the level of the Barrow. 
Passing rt. Bert Hall (late Lord 
Dowries) and Kilberty, the towers of 

45 in. Athy soon come in sight 
(Hotel: Leinster Arms . It was in 
early times a place of importance 

a neutral ground between the ter- 
ritories of Leiz and ('.Milan, which 
ae .! matter of course were always at 

operate fend, and struggled hard 
witli each other for possession of 
Athy or Ath-1< g r, "the lord to- 
wards the w< Subsequent to the 
1 1 tglish invasion the I> ids Justi 

yarded it with equal jealousy, 
from it- being on the frontier of i , 
Kildare Marches, and a castle, now 
calied White's ( rd- 

in_ for if- d( fence I 

Fitzgerald Earl of Kildare, at tl 
commencement of the 1 1th cut. i 

i- ,i iiit — i%. iii- 

battled building, flanked at 

• : by a Bmall square tut o 1 
the bri 



240 



Haute 26. — Dublin to Water ford. 



Ireland, 



the Barrow. This bridge bears the 
curious name of Crom-a-boo, from 
the ancient war-cry of the Fitz- 
geralds, and is in itself worth no- 
tice. A little distance to the N. of 
the town by the river-side is another 
- [uare fortress, called Woodstock 
Castle, which, although usually 
ascribed to the Earl of Pembroke, is 
considered, with more probability, to 
have been built in the 13th cent, by 
an Earl of Kildare, who received the 
manor of Woodstock by marriage 
with the daughter of Q'Moore of 
Leix. It is remarkable for the thick- 
ness of its walls, its square mul- 
lioned windows, and a round-headed 
gateway adjoining the tower. For- 
merly a monastery existed for 
Crouched Friars and another for Do- 
minicans, both established in the 13th 
cent; There are also the remains of 
Preston" s Gate leading into the town. 
A thy is a well-built little place, and 
is, jointly with Naas, the assize town 
of Co. Kildare. Its situation in the 
middle of a rich plain, together with 
facilities of water and land carriage, 
commands for it a large agricultural 
business. 

A branch of the Grand Canal 
from Monasterevan here joins the 
Barrow, forming the commence- 
ment of the Barrow navigation, by 
which water communication is main- 
tained between Athy, Carlow, Ba- 
genalstown, B orris, New Koss, and 
the sea. 

Excursions. — 

1. Kilberry. 

2. Moat of Ardscull. 

[1. From Athy to Kilberry, 3 m. 
to the N., between the rly. and the 
river, and near. Lord Downes' seat at 
Bert. On this spot 2 strong castles 
and an abbey formerly stood, of 
the latter of which there are slight 
ruins ; and on the other side of the 
river is Rheban Castle (Righ-ban), 
" the House of the King," one of 
the fortresses of Richard de St. 
Michael (the same who founded the 
monastery for Crouched Friars in 



Athy). But it is probable that he 
only enlarged or rebuilt it, as not 
only the name appears to be of 
an early date, but it is even men- 
tioned by Ptolemy as an inland 
town of some note. 

2. The Moat of Ardscull, 3| m. 
on the road to Kilcullen, is a high 
mound (now planted), supposed to 
have been raised to commemorate a 
desperate battle in the 3rd cent, be- 
tween the men of S. Leinster and 
those of Munster. About 2 m. to 
the E., by a cross-road, is another 
historical spot, the Rath of Mullagh- 
mast (Mullach-Mastean), "the Hill 
of Decapitation." It was formerly 
known as " the Carmen," where, on 
16 conical mounds, as many of the 
elders of the province of Leinster 
held their councils ; but it derived 
its other name "in consequence of 
the act of some English adventurers 
in the 16th cent., who, being re- 
sisted in their encroachments by some 
of the Irish chieftains, invited the 
latter to a conference on New Year's 
Day, fell upon them unawares, and 
slew them." — Lewis. In consequence 
of the anathematization of Carmen 
the place of assembly was removed 
to the rath at Naas. Visible in the 
W. is the tower of Inch Castle, one 
of King John's fortresses, which was 
the locale of a severe engagement 
in 1642 between the armies of Or- 
mond and MountgarrettJ 

Conveyances. — Rail to Dublin and 
Kilkenny. Car to Baltinglass. Car 
to Ballitore. 

Distances. — Stradbally, 8 m. ; Car- 
low, 11 ; Timahoe Round Tower, 10 
(Rte. 25) ; Ardscull, 3£. 

48 m. on the W. bank of the 
Barrow is Kilmoroney House (Rev. 
F. S. Trench). 

51 ni. Mageney Stat., [3| m. on 
rt. is Kilkea, an interesting modern- 
ised Anglo-Norm, castle, originally 
built by De Lacy in 1180, and subse- 
quently rebuilt by one of the Fitz- 
geralds. It was again added to by 
| Mr. Caulfield, who held it for a time 



\r>. 



Route 26.— Carlow. 



241 



s i its reverting to the hands 
its ancient po£ family 

of Kildare. The interior contains 
q oak staircase and Borne baa 

on subjects connected with 
the Kildare family. 

A li; Y.E., on the road 

Ballitoi Moone Abbey (F. 

Carroll. Esq.), where another castle 

is incorporated with the dwelling- 

indTimolin, celebrated for its 

►nastery, Pounded in the 7th cent, 

by St. Moling. From hence it is 

• the little Quaker town of 

BallitoreJ 

8 ox rt. Castle Dermoi accord- 

me, obtained its name 

St D rmot, who founded 

ry in 500, though oih< rs be- 

I" have b M 11 fcl] 

; ' > B •!.']•. 

r that may be, it is certain 

that I me fine remain.- :— 

J. A i and tower, slender and tall, 

a more rn ch., and' 

id to have been erected in the 9th 

it. by th< ' preus. 

• Franciscan 
m ry founded at the beginning 

of the lith cent, by Thomas, Lord of 
Offal, y. This i have been a fine 
1» •• building. It was cruciform, the 

- tna r windows, 
ai X. trans pi beit 

\ in. H< 

window; having I 

arch filled with a lai 

cu il, and • pandrils on 

il. 
3. ' date with I 

:ulptur< d 
f which the only oi d- 

i xhibits a r atation i f I 

in th 
ich arm. 

*« A N arch with d oth 

uldings, all t I U i ,.],. 

built I i . 

* I 

1 ( ' ': Park; 

1 :' II. I : 

M !'.. :. :; • 
56 m. ( • (ana C chl 

[Ireland.] 



[Hotel: CHub-l lerable), bri 

and cheerful-looking, containing 
the usual accompaniments of a county 
and assize town, such as con 
house, gaol, lunatic asylum, in- 
firmary, and the Like. (Pop. 834 . 
The former is built with a I 
portico after the model of the Par- 
thenon at Athens, and has an 
effective-looking front. The P - 
testanl Gh. is remarkable for its lot 
spire, although it is surpassed b 
R. Oath. Cathedral, which has a I - 
tern tower 151 ft.hi-h spring] 
a ■• loaded with 

ornamentation. Id the interior i 
d monument to the memory of B 
yle by Hogan, an Irish sculpl 
wh se studio is at Rome. The sub- 
J (,, .' tri effigy of the Bisln p, 

with prostrate Inland weeping by 
his side. Adjoining the ch. is a 
college for E. C. students, a hand- 
some building, consisting of a centre 
and 2 wings, in a shady and pleasant 
park overlooking the river Barrow 
which — 

"Though deep, yet clear; though gentle yet 
not dull; 
Strong without rage; without o'erflowing 



flows merrily through the town, and 
pasi the ruins of Oarlow Castle, 
access to which is obtained through 
the kite] rden of a grocer 

to the bridge. It is ascrih I 
King J«,hn, and must have formerly 

• ry massive building : it was 
apparently rectangular, with dn 
tow< rs at each corner; now oi 
the W t bee of wall with the flank- 
ing towers remain, a state of decay 
partly owing to the efl! cts of tn. 
and hard u it haying sustain I 

3 hand of i 

E. Poynings in 1 i:»j, anoth r ! 
the insurg< ots in 164 I. and ! by 

the \i> publican army nn<l« r [reton, 

tin'- ;iii, for iii 1814 
dilative physician fixed upon t. ; 
old forto an useful Bite t r 

lur urn, ; p] 'lying gun> 

31 



212 



Route 26. — Dublin to Waterford. 



Ireland. 



powder with a view to diminish the 
thickness of the wall, did it so 

effectually as to knock down a good 
part of it altogether. 

Conveyances. — By rail to Kilkenny 
and Dublin. Car to Tullow. 

Distances. — Kilkenny, 25 m. ; Athy, 
11; Castle Corner, 13; Killeshin, 3. 

[An excursion to this latter place 
should not be omitted by the eccle- 
siologist, who will find in the old 
ch. a most unique specimen of carv 
ing. The road from Carlow crosses 
the Wellington Bridge, connecting 
it with the populous suburb of 
Grague. Very soon after leaving the 
Barrow the road begins to rise as it 
approaches the ridge of limestone 
hills which begirdle the great Lein- 
ster coal-field, the most important 
coal-basin in Ireland. At Killeshin 
it pierces this girdle, at a spot known 
as the " Cat of Killeshin," where for 
nearly a mile it is carried through a 
pass varying from 10 to 40 ft. in 
depth, and only a few feet wide. 
The elate of Killeshin Ch. is in all 
probability considerably anterior to 
the Norm, invasion, although the 
Norm, decorations so plentifully la- 
vished would appear to make it of 
that particular era, but we have 
already seen at the round towers of 
Kildare and Timahoe (Bte. 25) that 
this style is frequently found in Ire- 
land very much earlier than the 
Norm. era. " The 4 concentric arches 
which form the doorway of Killeshin 
display a great variety of ornamental 
detail, consisting of chevron work, 
animals, &c. A pediment surrounds 
the external arch, and a window on 
the S. side wall is canopied by a 
broad band ascending and converg- 
ing in straight lines."- — Wakeman. 
Round the abacus an Irish in- 
scription formerly extended, but this 
has been nearly obliterated by time, 
and the zealous efforts of a resident 
who, we are credibly informed, de- 
voted a good deal of labour towards 



destroying it. The visitor should 
particularly notice the heads on the 
capitals, which, in the arrangement 
of the hair, resemble those at Tima- 
hoe. There is also a very ancient 
font in the graveyard, of a bulbous 
form, with the base cut into an 
octagon. 

Continuing towards Castlecomer, 
the road at length attains the summit 
of the table-land that forms the 
Leinster coal-field. The average 
height of the E. side is about 
1000 ft., and the highest point is a 
little to the S. of this at Clogrenan, 
from whence the views over the 
Wicklow Mountains are extremely 
fine, Lugnaquilla occupying a pro- 
minent place in the centre. The 
valley of the Barrow consists of the 
calp or middle limestone measures 
resting on the granite without any 
old reel or silurian intervening. Over- 
lying the limestone, at a height of 
about 250 ft. above the sea, are 
the coal-measures, which form, there- 
fore, the greater portion of this 
ridge of hills. Their geology is ex- 
plained more at length in Intro '. 
(p. xxvi), although it may be briefly 
stated here that the general section 
of the Castlecomer fields shows a 
series of 6 beds of coal, altogether 
occupying a thickness of 1850 ft. 

The most interesting colliery for 
the fossil collector is Bilboa, about 
2 m. W. of Cloghrenan. Here, in ad- 
dition to many typical coal-ferns and 
sigillaria, have been found two new 
Crustacea related to the Limulus, or 
King crab, and named Bellinurus 
regius and B. arcuatus. 

11 ni. Castlecomer is a small 
colliery town, situated on the river 
Dinin, and on the W. side of the 
basin; and contains nothing of in- 
terest, except a new B,oman Catholic 
chapel of good design] 

The remainder of the line to Kil- 
kenny belongs to the Irish South 
Eastern Co., but is worked by the 
Great Southern and Western Co., 
who receive 5000?. per annum ft>i 



Ir; Soui 26.—OMLeigMin—Bom8. 



1 &»*] the Burreen 

-till follow ti the 

lly Barow," in view of the hills 
comer coal-basin, and 
ane of 01< grenan | II. 
B ', Esq.), while fco the S.E. 

are caught of that noble 
nr if mountains K tween Be 

» i and Enniscorthy, in which 

L inster and Blackstaira are 
tin- most prominent point 
60 in. Milf !. In the villi 

f the river is a perf 
y of flour-mills, which, her 

ith Milfl rd House, belong to J. A] 
and- r, I'- 
ll. 1 m. is !.■ gUi A. 
I -ghKonn t divide,! int 

nsbytl B rrow, whichi ied 

3,buil( by Maurice 
:' Kildare, and in I 
y a fun as 1 ridge-architect, by 
whom i at Kilcullen and St. 

Wnl-; •,. erect* r the 

of th jtery which 

. the for of I)} ' 

- built on the E. bank of 
• John de Clavillo, in the 
12 

1 U left it would 

C truot- 
in the u-n,A : - v irmar 

i of sur- 
An old 
1 - fthe W. wall 
{ * - 

, by the v. 

1 
t. 

of 

r P 'I ra 

7 

1 

I 

I ' ' ad 

I 
1 in build- 



s 

latter rebuiH by Bishop Saunders in 
1527. In the interior are some moi 
nionls of the time of the 16th cent.] 
66 m, BagendUtovm, with its gra ( 
ful spire looks very pretty as we i 
proach it, but the town contai 
nothing whatever to interesi the vi- 
sitor, being, in fact, quite a modern 
place. It is rather an important junc- 
tion '(^' the Irish South-Eastern and 
the Wexford lines. The latter rly. is 
only at j t completed to Bally* 

william, 5 m. fr< m New R< ss, and "it 
is extremely doubtful wh< ther it will 
ever [ rther, until the i 

prospects of the company are a lit; 
brighter. 

2 m. W. are the ruins of Bally- 
"ii Oastle, the walls of which 
form a iarg< quadrai formerly 

surrounded by a moat. On the X. 
and S. are 2 square tow< i at 

strength, the average thickm 
the walls being not loss than 
It is probably one of the earJii 
Anglo-Norman fortn . [To Bal- 
lywilliam the lino runs down tho 
vale of the Barrow, passing on it. 
! the ruins of Ballyloughan, a f drtri 
the Kavanaghs, whose'distriet we 
ow out. ring. In form it is a 
square, entered by a point* d 
way flanked by drum towers - 
eitl le. 

i. Borris, an < xtremely pn fly 
vill . shaded by the wo ds o B 

■ } the beautiful r , f 

Arthur Kavanagh, Esq.,tl 
!"•' sental v< i I the MacMn 

I lino of i 
In insi r, " Donald B : | av i] 

been a natural son of M u, 

I King of Leinster, wi 
and authority ho grabs* quentl; 
sunn The n< \g] b rarhood is v. 

[U( . and embn 
of Mount Leinster and Slacks! 

i" ti,. rly. on 

21 m h "■ • 

R 28). ! 
] 

ii 2 



244 



Route 2G. — Dublin to Water ford. 



Ireland. 



line turns off to the S.W., crossing 
the Barrow, and passing rt. Sliankill 
Castle (J. Aylward. Esq.)- Good 
views of Mt. Leinster, Blackstairs, 
and Mt. Brandon accompany us on 
the 1. 

74 m. Gowran stat. Adjoining the 
village 1 m. rt. is Gowran Castle, a 
seat of Lord Clifden. 

At 78 m. a junction is effected with 
the Waterford line, and the 2 rlys. 
enter side by side the remarkable old 
city of Kilkenny (anc. Cill-chain- 
nigh) (Ete. 27) {Hotels: Club-house, 
good ; Imperial), which, in interest- 
ing remains, associations, and situa- 
tion, is surpassed by very few cities 
in the kingdom. (Pop. 14,174). 

In the 12th cent. Strongbow made 
it his head-quarters, although he was 
temporarily dispossessed of it by Do- 
nald O'Brien, King of Thomond ; but 
towards the end of the cent, the former 
was succeeded by William le Mareschal, 
who built the castle, and established 
a government over one portion of the 
town, the other part r still called Irish- 
town) being under the control of the 
Bishop of Ossory. Gilbert de Clare, 
Earl of Gloucester, by marriage with 
Le Mareschal' s daughter, obtained 
the co. of Kilkenny, which passed 
again by marriage to Hugh le Spen- 
cer, from whom it was purchased by 
James Butler, 3rd Earl of Ormonde. 
Thus it was that the great family 
of Ormonde became possessed of Kil- 
kenny. 

Several Parliaments have been held 
here at different times— the first in 
1294, the last in 1536 ; and it played 
a notorious part in the parliamentary 
war, when the garrison, having suf- 
fered terribly from the plague, was 
obliged to surrender the city to Crom- 
well. 

Its situation is charming — 

" The stubborne Newre, whose waters gray, 
By fair Kilkenny and Rosseponte boord,'' 

runs through the town from N. to S., 
dividing it into 2 unequal portions, 
of which the W. contains the castle 
and all the principal streets. 



The cathedral is in Jrishtown, 
which is separated from the main 
portion by a little stream called the 
Breagh. Two bridges cross the Nore 
— the one with a handsome balustrade 
is called St. John's Bridge, and from 
it is obtained a very beautiful view of 
the river front of the castle. Green 
Bridge connects Irish town with the 
opposite bank. 

The castle occupies an elevated site 
overlooking the Nore, and though 
originally built by Strongbow, aud 
added to by Le Mareschal, has since 
then been so repeatedly altered and 
added to, that only 2 or 3 of the ori- 
ginal towers are left. The latest im- 
provements by the present Marquis 
have in effect amounted to a rebuild- 
ing, and as it now stands it is a fine 
baronial building, forming two sides 
of a quadrangle. The grounds are 
well laid out, but are limited in 
space. The interior contains some 
splendid suites of rooms, a picture- 
gallery full of family portraits of the 
Butlers, the original picture of the 
family of Charles I., by Vandyke, 
and some interesting tapestry, t;.e 
manufacture of which was intr )- 
duced into Kilkenny in the loth 
cent, by Piers Earl of Ormond. 
For this purpose he brought seve- 
ral workmen from Flanders ; but fur- 
ther than supplying the wants of the 
castle, nothing of any permanence was 
done. 

The present building is from the 
designs of Mr. Robertson, of Kil- 
kenny. There is a very pleasant 
walk along the banks of the Nore 
immediately under the castle. 

The cathedral of St. Canice, in 
Irishtown, is the gem of Kilkenny an- 
tiquities. Although not situated in the 
best part of the town, it is on such 
high ground, and so shaded by trees, 
as to be in no way influenced by it ; 
and, with the exception of Armagh, 
there is no cathedral in Ireland so 
well kept. Nor is this all, for the 
close proximity of a lofty round tower 
imparts the effect of additional an- 



Ireland. 



22 mte 26. — Kilkenny, 



O { M 



ti [uity bo the whole building, and 
untarily carriea back the mind to 
iriy ecclesiastical days of the 6 th 
a: 1 Ti ,i centuries, 

The date of St. Canice, however, is 
pi ! at 1 180, the founda- 

- having been laid in that year by 
r ilix O'Dullarny, Bishop of Ossory. 

built the choir, the remainder of 

the ch. nol being completed till LOO 

ber. Subsequently Bishop 

Ledred beautified it, and added a 

Lgnificent stained glass E. window, 

- not likely to escape the 

b 'lit ion of Cromwell's 

Pococke, in the last cent., 
athedral to something 
like its | nty, replacing I 

- as they were formerly, 
Uling a window over the w. door 

of the stained glass t'nnn 

window. It is said that 

P - Nuncio thought so highly 

it th.it he offered Too/, for it ; but 

though a large sum for th< 
a, w] . was in abey- 

- refds 
It is a cruciform ch., from the centre 
of which a wry low and luas- 

• >wer. [ts Length from B. to W. 

: i ft., and the breadth of the 

Externally the m 

• things are the tower, the 

aent with which the walls of 

ry and the transepts are 

and tl oil win- 

- by which the former is lighted. 

rch, and a P - 

i it i ful w. door, with 2 

id- 1 mpartmei the 

l of tl upied by 

!. [mmediately above it 

quatrefoil windows at 

e K. window. 

I !y. tl 

■ 
pointed arc! i 
i 

r, which 
I 



single point, spreading on( in many 
strings or beads until they all meel in 

the c(Mil re, forming a verj strong and 
beautiful arch." This arch was built 
by Bishop Hacket, in the loth cent. 
The transepts are lighted by E, E. 

windows, and both of them .have 

chapels attached. The N. trans, is 

the parish eh., and contains the chair 
Of St. Kieran, who is said to have pre- 

L St. Patrick by 30 year- Th< 
is also a fine E. Eng. \V. window, be* 
neath which, and over the door, is :i 
double trefoil-headed recess under a 
pointed arch. 

The worst part of the cathedral is 
the choir, which is disfigured by a 
trashy cornice. 

Amongsl the tombs are that of 
Bishop David; Bishop Walsh, as- 
sassinated by one James Dollond, who 
stabbed the prelate in the heart with 
a skein ; Bishop Pococke, whose 
pride was ever to adorn the cathedral 
and to do good to the town ; Peter 
Butler, Earl of Ormonde, and Margaret 

- wife, temp. 1539 ; and John G race, 
Baron of Courtstown, 1568. 

Adjoining the S. transept is the 
round tower, IDS ft, high, and 47 in 
circumference at the base. The en- 
trance faces the S., and is about 8 i't. 
from the ground. It has some fea- 
tures unlike the general arrangement, 
of the round towers, one of which 
the width of the window 

There are 5 Bquare openings, placed 
obliquely between the a id sum- 

mit, in addition to 6 windows al fl 
summit, t e Dumber usually l»< i> 
limited to I. " Thedrcumference at 
top ictly filled byan arch which, 

to the b m ath, presents the ap- 

pearance of a large millstone." The 
antiquary who wishes to study B 
• more fully si ould consult 

Khaustive tx on it by the 

B - . I >)•. ( (raves and Mr. Prim, 
from the cathedra] e 
ruins of the Franciscan monastery, 
f which is b brewi i 

hcourt it 
-till i \ v. ry delical 7-light 



21G 



Route 26. — Dublin to Watcrford. 



Ireland. 



windowj and a graceful tower resting 
on groined arches. 

J Wore leaving Irishtown the visitor 
should inspect the Dominican or 
Black Abbey, which is now used as a 
R. Catholic chapel. This also is a 
Dec building, cruciform, with a cen- 
tral towei-, finished off with gra- 
duated battlements. The E. window 
is of 5 lights, of remarkably beautiful 
design, as are also the windows of 
the choir on the N. side. 

The parish ch. of St. John, on the 
E. bank of the Nore, was formerly 
the hospital of St. John, and founded 
by William Earl of Pembroke in 
1220. Agreeably to the law of mu- 
tations which appears to govern Kil- 
kenny ecclesiastical ruins, St. John's 
was turned into a barrack before being 
again appropriated to its rightful 
use. It w 7 as noted for the extreme 
number and beauty of its windows, 
which obtained for it the name of 
the Lantern of Ireland. Some of 
these windows are blocked, though 
their mouldings are visible exter- 
nally. The choir is still in ruins. 
Notice the machicolations under the 
battlements of the tower, an unusual 
feature in Irish chs. 

St. Mary's ch. should be visited 
for the sake of the monument to Sir 
Ilichard Shee, temp. 1608, with its 
10 sculptured figures at the base. 
There is also one to his brother, 
Elias Shee, of whom Holinshed wrote 
that he was "a pleasant-conceited 
companion, full of mirth, without 
gall." 

For modern ecclesiastical build- 
ings the tourist should inspect the 
new Ii. Catholic chapel, which, with 
its noble tower of gray limestone, 
is a most conspicuous feature in all 
views of the city. It is by far the 
finest and best designed building of 
the kind in Ireland, being a cruci- 
form ch. with a lofty apse. All the 
details are worked out with a taste 
which the architects of R. Catholic 
bpels seldom show in this country. 

The house in which the Confederate 



Catholics held a parliament in 1642, 
and where the old oak table and chair 
of the Speaker were for a long time 
preserved, is now unfortunately pulled 
down. 

The Court-house, which has a 
singular cupola like a lighthouse, is 
still called "Grace's Old Castle," 
from its standing on the site of an 
old castle built by Grace, or Le Gras, 
whose tomb is in the cathedral. 

Kilkenny bears an honourable name 
in the annals of education, the insti- 
tutions for which are numerous and 
good. First and foremost is the col- 
lege originally founded by Pierce 
Butler, Earl of Ormonde, and subse- 
quently made a royal college by King 
James. Swift, Congreve, and Far- 
quhar received their education here, 
and it has always taken rank amongst 
the most celebrated grammar-schools 
of Ireland. 

The Roman Catholic College, near 
the Clonmel road, is a modern Gothic 
building, and is dedicated to St. 
Kvran. 

In addition to these, there are gaol, 
infirmary, lunatic asylum, alms- 
houses, and the usual buildings be- 
longing to a county town. Owing to 
the neighbouring geological forma- 
tion being composed almost entirely 
of carboniferous limestone, Kilkenny 
has been spoken of as paved with 
marble. Additional advantages are 
perpetuated in the old couplet — 

" Fire without smoke, air without fog, 
Water without mud, land without bog." 

The former excellency is to be attri- 
buted to the general use of the an- 
thracite or stone coal, which emits 
very little smoke, and is raised from 
the Castlecomer coal-field (p. 242), 
though, notwithstanding its virtues, 
Kilkenny coal is not so much patron- 
ized as that from Newport in S. Wales. 
Taking it altogether, it is undeniable 
that Kilkenny is one of the plea- 
santest cities in the kingdom, and 
will well repay a lengthened ac- 
quaintance. 



I 



Route ^.—CtJItoi—T'JJaroan. 



247 



( - R ;il to Dublin and 

Waterford. Dailycarsto Castleoomer, 
Durrow, Thurles, (Jrlingford, Callan, 
Ball} ragget 

. — 

1, Dunmore and Freshford. 

2. JerpoinJ and Thomastown. 
1 allan. Kells, and Kilree. 

b. — Dublin, SI m. ; Carlow, 
Thomastown, 1 1 : Waterford, 

: Cdlan, 10; Gow- 
. 7: Urlingford, 18; Bennett's 

l; ' lord.: 

i L6 banks of the Nore are very 
int and picturesque, particularly 
town in tin; direction 
! « re there is a cave in 
that is worth a visit 
f no bh, but ex- 

chamber known 
by • Market Gross. A 

ription is given 
. in hia novel i4 Crohore of 
Bill r the cave is Dun- 

one of the Marquis of 
Otb About a mile 

r up the Nore is Thn - lea 
use ■'. Bull, Esq.), where the 
Dinin nver flows in, and a little 
x >wn Park, the 

- • I •. I.. Bryi i. Esq., and the 
>d «>f Ireland, ; - - raci 

d, the d. okinstown meet- 
■ !• r- 'I tin; m< ei 

-. 
4 in. from Kilkenny rly insu- 
by tip- Noi . I more 

I k< . p with 

ofth -I. 

<-\< d by Roto it 1 1 

I I I artov. 

i • Mowing resi in the 

Kilkenny, viz., 
ick, Esq . I 
8 r d. Blunden, B irt. , 
m II W. Blund 

wd J. ( , Esq.), 

1. 
[1«» in. i 3 Callan, 

r- 



only traces thai i< possesses are in the 
nuns of the Friary, founded in tl 
L5th cent, by sir .ins. Butler. It is 
a Long aisled eh. of Pec style, with 
a tower rising from the centre. The 
choir is now occupied by the parish 
eh. The founder is supposed to 
have been interred mar the E. win- 
dow of the aisle. The remains of 
the castle also overlook the King's 
River. Close to the town is \\\ si 
Court; and between Kilkenny and 
Callan are Desart (The Earl of 
Desart) and Farmley (W. Flood. 
Esq.). Borne 7 m. to the W. of Kil- 
kenny is the village of Tullaroan, 
once the centre and mos1 important 
part of the property of the family of 
Grace, who wore descended from 
" Le Gros," the brother-in-law of 
Btrongbow, and who owned a dis- 
trict of 80,000 acres known as 
"Grace's Country." From Callan 
the road may he taken to Jer- 
point, passing midway the village of 
Kells. another ancient walled town, 
erected by one of Strongbow's fol- 
lowers. Here are the ruins of an 
extensive priory founded in the 12th 
cent, by Sir Geoffrey de Monte 
Morisco, and peopled by him with 
monks from Bodmin, " It was com- 
prehended within a large oblong 
square, divided into '2 courts sepa- 
rated by a strong wall. The south- 
ern or Burghers' court is Inn ft. 
square, and was apparently never 
lupied by buildings. In each of 
the northern angli 8, and in the 
itre of tie \. and YV. curtains, is 
strong tower in good preservation! 
fitted up with fireplao s, cloa ts, and 
narrow staircases. A branch of tl 

's River, together with a high 
wall flanked by a Btrong towi r, 
divide s this court from the other, 

which contains the church, cloistl r. 

and monastic attachment Every 

li< C idjuncl to a moii; 

to have been placed la !•<•. in- 
cluding wh;it probably many housi 

did let ] ithin their walls, a 

mill. I i chin i an 



218 



Route 26. — Dublin to Waterford. 



Ireland. 



irregular building, and consisted of 
a choir, nave, and N. transept, be- 
sides a Lady chapel ; which last ap- 
pears, from the remains of some 
windows, to have been the most 
lately erected portion of the priory." 
The whole style of the buildings 
at Kells appeals to partake con- 
siderably more of the military and 
defensive than of the ecclesiastical 
fashion. 

Nearly 3 m. S. of Kells is the 
Bound Tower of Kilree, about 96 ft. 
in height, though it has lost its cap. 
Adjoining it is a stone cross made 
out of a single block of freestone, 
said to have been erected in memory 
of Neill Callan, King of Ireland, who 
perished in his endeavour to save 
one of his followers while drowning. 
The river was afterwards called 
King's River. The same tradition 
is current in co. Armagh, where 
there is a mound erected for the 
same reason.] 

For the first 3 m. on our way to 
Waterford we run parallel with the 
Irish S. Eastern, obtaining an excel- 
lent view of the town, and passing 
rt. the lunatic asylum, Larchfield, 
Archersgrove (J. Beid, Esq.), Inch 
House (J. H. Knaresborough, Esq.), 
and 1. Lyrath House (Sir J. Cuffe, 
Bart.). 

At Lavistown, 2 m. the lines di- 
verge, the one to Waterford, trending 
to the S.j and following the valley of 
the Nore to 

G m. Bennett's Bridge. Here the 
Duke of Ormonde held a review in 
1704, which attracted such hosts of 
visitors that an innkeeper is said to 
have made as much by his beds as 
paid his rent for 7 year-. 

[About 2^ m. on 1., and halfway 
1 tween Bennett's Bridge and Dun- 
garvon, is the round tower of Tullo- 
herin, which has an entrance 12 ft. 
from the ground, and was lighted by 
8 windows at the summit, part of 
which, with the cap, is deficient. 

The ruins of a large ch. are adja- 
cent, and it is a singular fact that while 



this latter is built of limestone, the 
tower was built of silicious breccia.] 

From hence the rly. runs over 
rather high ground, which now and 
then offers pleasant views of the pas- 
toral vale of the Nore to rt. as it flow3 
through a succession of well- wooded 
demesnes. On rt. bank, Annamult ; 
on the King's Biver, Johnswell ; and 
Mount Juliet, the seat of the Earl of 
Carrick. 

On the 1. bank are the grounds of 
Ballyhinch (W. Fitzgerald, Esq.), 
between which and the rly. are ruins 
of a fortress called Legan Castle, the 
ancient residence of the last Abbot 
of Jerpoint. 

11 m. Tliomastoivn (Inns: Cul- 
len's ; Trully's) is a small town of 
about 1900 inhab , of note only as 
being the nearest place to Jerpoint 
Abbey, and the beautiful scenery in 
the neighbourhood. It derives its 
name from Thomas Fitz Anthony 
Walsh, one of the early English pro- 
prietors, who built a castle, and en- 
closed the town with walls. From 
that period it rapidly increased, and 
from its position on the Nore, which 
up to a late date was navigable to 
this point, became an important em- 
porium for Kilkenny and the neigh- 
bouring country. The river, how- 
ever, silted up, and as no steps were 
ever taken to deepen or clear the bed, 
the navigation point is now Innis- 
tiogue, and Thomastown has conse- 
quently become a petty village. 

It contains several relics of its 
former greatness, viz., square towers 
at each end of the bridge that crosses 
the Xore, and part of an aisle of the 
Dominican Abbey, of the foundation 
of which history is silent, although 
it is probably of the date of the 13th 
cent. It may also be mentioned that 
the B.C. chapel contains the old high 
altar that once belonged to Jerpoint. 
About | m. below the town, and on 
the opposite side of the river, is the 
ruin of Grenan Castle, by w T hieh 
name Thomastown was called pre- 



[ \XP. 



Route 26. — Jerpoint Abbey. 



2\') 



a to the arrival of Pitz Anthony 
Walsh. 

The great attraction of this neigh- 
bour i is J< rpoirti Abbey, founded 
in I L80 by Donogh O'Donoghoe, 
King of Ossory, for Cistercian monks. 
It speedily attained a high reputation, 
and became the burial place of the 
.1! founder and subs< quenf bishops, 
urishingunti] the Dissolution,when 
it came into the hands of the family 
of < trmonde, together with 6500 acres 
of land. 

The ruin situated about If m. 

stown, between the rlv. 
1 the rt. bank of the riv< r. and as 
line afford an exquisite 
round to a very charming fit of 
I • those of a ora- 

ch. «>f the date of transition 
N to EJ j oi both 

which - very distinct, 

form< r predominati 9. 
I (»t' nave, clioir, and 
with a square tower rising 
from the ii l t ■ on, which, from 

the short] - of the choir, | - it 
v- ry much nearer the E. than the W. 

d. 

"The b though of eonsider- 

tiquity, is lently of later 
than the tr.n i-iti* -n period, and 
■ bly addi d contempora- 
neously with the decorated window 
m th( id of th< ir." — W<ihc- 

m. 

• >w< r i 
■■ - ■ 
d with many found in the X. of 
I' t very unlike anything either 

Scotland. T 
look to the whole bui] 
- very striking." — /', 
[nternaU •, I 

on transepta 

■ d, while 
choir is circular- 
i i the n:« a. wall 

■ 

b »dy of tbe n:r 

h of 

ich b ry wii with 

ilar 1 imilar 



character is the W. window the E 
being of later date). It consists i t 
3 lights with semicircular beads, each 
divided by a midlion, and surmounted 
with a continuous weathermoulding. 
"The only entrance to the body of 
the elt. from the exterior appears to 
have been a small doorway in t 
wall of the nave, and this is defended 
by a bartizan similar to those found 
upon castles of the 12th cent." 
The stone roof of the choir is in 
od preservation, and there are still 
vera! interesting monuments, and in 
particular the tomb of Donogh M 
Gillapatrick), the royal founder. The 
figures are those of a male and fe- 
male, in I stumeofthc t2Hi edit., 
the former holding a erueili.v in his 
righl hand. On the base are figures 
of the Apostles, with long beards, 
and at the foot are 2 crowned figun s, 
besides a kneeling angel. Here is 
also the tomb of an abbot with his 
crozier, at the lower end of which a 
st rpent is gnawing. There are also 
other tombs of ecclesiastics, more or 
less mutilated, after the fashion of 
I Mi abbey ruins, which have not 
oven the negative advantages of being 
left to the ravages of time alone. It 
is, howov.r. greatly to the credit of 
the Kilkenny Archaeological Society 
that they have taken steps towards 
rvation of Jerpoint. 
y> estates before men-* 

tion.d, there are -l handsome a ats 2 
m \. of rhomastown— Kilfane and 
Kilnnny. the former belonging to Sir 
J. Power, Bart., and the latter to I[. 
Butler, l \t 

' -l.nil to Kilkenny 

and Waterford. Car to x< w Ross. 
Disto 68.— Kilkenny, 11 m. ; .i 
poi [nnistiogue, 6 ; New Ross, 

16 : v> ck,7; Waterford, 2 K 

[If time is not an i 

ould make ;i de'tour to New 
following th< course of the 
N which continn justify ii 

'i of beii • most guiel 

itiful river in I 

on 1. bank I I :• and 

31 



250 



Route 2G. — Dublin to Waterford. 



Ireland. 



Brownsbarn House (Gapt. Black* 
burne) : and rt. bank, Coolmore 
(P. OonneUan, Esq.) and Ballyduff 
(R. Langrislie, Esq.), we arrive at 

G m. Inmstiogue (anc. Inis-teoc), 
a charmingly-situated little town 
overlooking the Nore, which is 
crossed by a bridge of 10 arches, 
ornamented on one side with Ionic 
pilasters. The town is built in 
the form of a square, which being 
planted with limetrees give it a pe- 
culiarly fresh and pretty appearance. 
Innistiogue was once a loyal borough, 
and famed for its religious establish- 
ments. It also possessed a large 
Augustinian monastery. All that is^ 
now left of it are 2 towers, one of 
them incorporated with the parish 
ch. ; the other is square at the base 
and octagonal in the upper stages. 

This is a good point from which to 
ascend Brandon Htll, a conical emi- 
nence 1691 feet in height, that inter- 
venes between the valley of the Nore 
and that of the Barrow. 

The view from the summit into 
these 2 valleys is very lovely, over- 
looking St. Mullins and Graigue-na- 
Managh (Rte. 28), while to the E. 
the view is bounded by the superior 
heights of Mount Leinster and 
Blackstairs. The great lion of In- 
nistiogue is Woodstock, the seat of 
Et. Hon. W. F. Tighe (Lieutenant 
of the co. Kilkenny), the grounds 
of which abound with the mo^t beau- 
tiful views. The demesne stretches 
for a considerable distance along the 
Nore, and is laid out with every 

versity of landscape that wood and 
water can bestow. The house con- 
tains a valuable library and some 

i d paintings, while in the grounds 
are several cottage-onices, placed in 
situations that command the most 
charming bits. At the back rises a 
wooded hill to the height of 900 ft., 
the summit crowned with an orna- 
mental tower. 

To Woodstock succeeds Bromsford, 
opposite to which is the ruin of 
Clonamery castle. 



At 10 m. on rt. bank is Newgrove 
House, and on 1. Ballinabarney (J. 
Bolger, Esq.), Rathsnagadan, and 
Russellstown House. 

At 14 m. Ring wood (Mrs. Chap- 
man) the Barrow — 

" The goodly Barow, which doth hoor 

Great heaps of salmons in his deepbosome, 

All which, long sundred, doe at last accord 

To ioyne in one, ere to the sea i hey 1 come; 

So, flowing all from one, all one at last 

become.' ' — Spenser, — 

joins its waters with the Nore, and 
they flow together in a noble stream, 
backed by high wooded banks, to 
16 m. New Ross (Rte. 28;.] 

From Thomastown the line passes 
close to Jerpoint Abbey, where the 
valley af the Nore is crossed. Close 
to the Abbey is Jerpoint House (P. 
Hunt, Esq.), and 2 m. to the W., 
Flood Hall. 

15 m. Ballyhale Stat., 1 m. from 
which on rt. is Knoctopher village 
and House, the latter the residence of 
Rev. Sir H. Langrislie, Bart. 

The charming river and valley 
scenery now gives place to dreary 
high ground, the line passing at 
the base of the Booley range of 
hills to 23 m. Mullinavat. If the 
weather be clear, however, there are 
beautiful distant views on rt. of 
Slieve-na-man and the Commeragh 
Hills. At Mullinavat a small stream, 
called the Black Water, runs S. to 
join the Suir, and of this valley the 
rly. takes advantage. 

2G m. Kilmacow Stat. At Dunkitt 
the Waterford and Limerick line is 
joined. 

31 m. Waterford (Rtes. 28, 30). 

Hotels: Adelphi, Dobbyn's, Cum- 
mins'. 



Ireland. 



'Route 27. — Kilkenny to Athenry. 






ROUTE 27. 

FROM KILKENNY TO ATHENRY, 
THROUGH PARSON5TOWN AND 
LOUGHREA. 

A ear I Kilkenny for Urling- 

r I. by a pretty road on the rt. bank 

N re, passing rt. the Mount 

1 1 jtillery, where the Dinan 

: : j in from the district of 

I <mer Rte. 2 

• in. the village .of FV< shford, 

the antiquary >li<»ni,i yj>it the ch., 

. iallv built b; S Lachtin in the 

7' t. f but rebuill about the oom- 

• of the 12th, as is proved 
by two Irish inscriptions over the 

arch of the entrance doorway; 
running thus — 

r f«>r Xr \.m daughter of Core, and 
■ amatx O'Chiabmeic, by whom 
ide this church." 

;• — 

r Gills Mocholmoc O'Cen- 
Le it." 

•■ I in Lther our 

ical lxx-ks pre- 
the persons 
scription, bo tl 
■ 
which tli. y flourish d ; 
hi the surnani 
individuals con- 

• th< y could ool have lived 

l ! • ., when the 

ry --in 

I and." — J < 
ificenl N de- 

: ■ Ling ai . in 
wh mould- 

2 

k : the oth( 
up. A ire 



* 



is the sculpture of lions' heads on the 
of the outer arch immediately 
over the imposts. The ancient name 
of Freshford wasAchadhur, M Water- 
field." To the N, of the town is 
Lodgepark House \\\ Warren, Esq.) ; 
on the 8. is Upper ( ourt. 

Passing 1. Woodsgift -Sir R, St. 
George, Bart. , Balief(H.8t. George, 
Esq.), and Wilton House, we come to 
18 m, Urlingford, an uninteresting 
I >wn, offering nothing but a pretty 
panoramic view from the racecourse. 
Id the neighbourhood of21 in. Johns- 
t >wn, once celebrated for its sp 
Vi<»lct Hill and Foulksoouri 0. 11. lv 
Esq, . ' J 

From here a road runs nearly duo 
N. through a hilly country to 

31 m. Rathdowney, near which place 
are several mined keeps, viz. Oool- 
kerryon the Erkina stream; Kilhreedy 
on the N".E.; Clonhurrenonthe S.W. ; 
noneof them being of any importance. 
33 m. the village of Donaghmore, 
and 53 m. Bonis station on the Great 
Southern and Western Rly. (Rte. 25), 
firom whence a convenient branch-line 
runs to Roscrea, Parsonstown, and 
Nen igh. Keeping on 1. Ballybrophy 
and Ballymeelish, is 38m. Borris, dis- 
tinguished by the addition of Ossory 
from the Bonis near Kilkenny, which 
properly Bonis-Idrone. This was 
once a place of importance, from being 
th< into Munsti r, for tl 

rtaon of which a • . qow in 
ruins, wa bed bythe Fitzpatricka 

rt. are Charleville II. Whil 
Esq. , Kilmartin, Mounl Butl< t Lady 
I 'den , D rryvale, Racket Hall 
Mrs. Bridge , Birchgrove (J, S. 
ch, Esq. , and Monaincha (r. 
Birch, E q. , all in the neighbour- 
hood of 

15 m. 22 ' [Hotel: Brown 1 
in form r times the locale of a larj 
moi y !'■ r Augustines, foundi d 
by St. ( Ironan, and the seal of a di - 
which, howev< r, in the 12th 
• united to th I K ii ] ;l i, 
8 . < ironan was a 1« brat d for hi 

:id n. d- 



252 



Route 27. — Kilkenny to Atlienry. 



Ireland. 



cades wese attributed to Lis prayers; 
in one ease, the fury of the Ossorians, 
who were marching against his coun- 
trymen, was checked at his interces- 
sion ; at another time, " he suspended 
the sword of King Fingin of Minister, 
whidi was raised to destroy the people 
of 3 loath ; " and he eventually died in 
the fulness of years and good works, 
as abbot or bishop of Koscrea, in the 
7 rh cent. The points of interest in the 
town are — 1. the eh., which preserves 
the doorway of the ancient abbey, 
having niches on either side, and an 
image of St. Cronan very much mu- 
tilated, . In the ch.-yard is a cross, and 
a monumental stone in the wall, on 
which is sculptured a rude represen- 
tation of the Crucifixion ; this is known 
as the shrine of St. Cronan. 2. The 
round tower is in remarkably good 
preservation, and is very similar to 
that of Devenish Island in Lough 
Erne (lite. 6). The doorway has 
a circular head, is 15 ft. from the 
ground, and possesses a groove and 
pivot-hole, evidently showing that it 
was provided with, double doors; a 
fact which goes to prove the argument 
that the round towers were used as 
places of defence and security. (Petrie 
on 'Bound Towers,' p. 369.) It is 
ornamented with a plain flat archi- 
trave ; over the doorway is a trian- 
gular-headed aperture. The summit, 
which is about 80 ft. from the ground, 
is covered with a dome roof of wood. 
3.. The old Franciscan friary, founded 
1490, by Mulrany - na - Feasoige 
O'Oarrol and Bribiana his wife, is in- 
corporated* with the, Roman Catholic 
chapel, which, by the way, contains a 
>d altarpiece of the Crucifixion, 
Besides these ecclesiastical ruins 
are some interesting structures, viz. : 
a circular tower belonging to the 
eastle built by King John, and alofty 
square keep of the fortress of the Or- 
mondes,, which has been made use of 
in part as a barrack and storeroom. 
Boscxea was at one time the residence 
of St. Canice, " who wrote here a copy 
of the 4 Gospels called Glas Kennic, 



or ■ the Chain of Canice,' which, till 
the time of Archbishop Usher, was 
preserved in this place. There was 
also a curious copy written by Darima, 
a scholar, the son of CEngus, the son 
of Carthin, which was also kept there 
in an ornamented box, and was pro- 
bably the MS. in the possession of Sir 
William Betham, Ulster King-at- 
Arms." — Lewis. 

The town is prettily situated on a 
small river flowing into the Brosna, 
and is surrounded by undulating 
hills ; there are many nice seats in the 
neighbourhood, some of which have 
been mentioned. Amongst others are 
— Ballystanley (H. Scroope, Esq.), 
Inane Plouse (F. Jackson, Esq.), 
Mount Heaton,- Hillsborough (H. 
Buckley, Esq.), Glenalbert (A. Max- 
well, Esq.), Golden Grove (J. Hutch- 
inson, Esq.), and Dungar (Mrs. 
Evans). In the grounds of Corville 
House (H. Prittie, Esq.), 1 m. S.E., 
are slight remains 'of the abbey of 
Corbahy ; and in those of Monanicha 
are also remains of Inchanameo 
Abbey, a Culdee establishment, 
which flourished in the time of St. 
Columba. 

Conveyances. — Rail to Borris, Par- 
sonstown, and Nenagh. 

Distances. — Bonis, 10 m. : Parsons- 
town,.'ll; Nenagh,- 20 ; Money gall, 
9 ; Cloghjordan,. 12. 

The line now keeps the valley of 
the Little Brosna river, leaving on 1. 
the villages of Brosna and Shinrone, 
and on rt. the grounds of Gloster 
(Col. Lloyd). 

52 m. rt. Shara vogue (Col. Hon. J. 
Westenra) and Bathmore (E. Synge, 
Esq.), and 1. Ballincor House (F. H. 
Toone, Esq.). 

5G m. Birr or Parsonstown (Hotel : 
Dooley's),. the former name being 
obtained from the ancient abbey of 
Biorra, founded here by St. Bren- 
dan ; and the latter from the family 
of the Parsons, to whom, in the time 
of James I., the town and neighbour- 
hood were assigned. They built a 
castle, which has been modernised, 



I 



27, — Parsonstou 



~- >• » 



I is now the residence of the Earl 
of \\ Eee, to whose labours the science 

momy is BO much indebted. 

it objects of interest are the 
1 '. irl's famous telescopes, to visit w hich 
missiou is granted to the tourist. 
Tlu- chief difficulty of the proper 
mbination oi metals most useful 
for s] ula. as to their whiteness, 
;ty. and hardness, was solved 
by Lord Rosse, who found that one of 
g pper (126 parts with tin 58 parts) 
the best. He also successfully 
specula, by au improvement in 
the shapeof the mould, which, instead 
of b ing of solid cast-iron, " was 
by binding together tightly 
- of hoop-iron, and turning tin- 
in edgeways 
cuium of the large telescope 
- 3 tons, and required 
•mi al. As n gards the 
ichinery by which it is worked, 
56 PL! nd is made 

of deal 1 inch thick. The focal length 
of the speculum is 52 it. The tube 
is fixed toi -work in the ground, 

by a large universal hinge, which 
all I it 1 turn in all directions. 
At each side of it, at 12 ft. distance, 
- built, which is 11 ft. long, 
3 ft. high on the outer side, and 56 
r: the walls are thus 24 
ft ". and ' tctly in the merl- 

in line. When directed t-> the 8. 
the tube i Lowered till it \ 

tal, hut when 

; • the N. it only falls until 

rallel with the earth's axis, 

t i the i">le <>f the 

ition would b ■ 

tial objec 

'. they will 

into \ and about it." 

— ,S 

11 built and regularly 
ill b 
•id« r the surveillance of a 
I landlord : thi 

in which 
in memory 
D 1 and In 

I 



The eli. is of Early Pointed style 

With a spire 100 ft. "in height : hut 

this is eclipsed by tlie Roman Cath. 
Cathedral, a fine Perp. building. In 
the neighbourhood of Parsonstown are 
the Castle r Syngfield E.Synge, Esq.), 
Chesterfield 'Col. Manners), &c. 

The country round is not remark- 
able tor beauty: the town itself is si- 
tuated On the little river Canaoor, a 
tributary of the Brosna, and in the 
centre oi' Tivland, so much so that Sir 
William Petty, in his ' Survey of Ire- 
land," calls it " Umbilicus Biber- 
nias." If the tourist has time he may 
make an excursion towards Nenagh, 
and ascend the hill of Knochshegoona 
about 6 m. S.W. Although of no 
height, 700 ft., it commands a wide 
view over the surrounding plains and 
the ranges of the Slicve Bloom 
Mountaii 

Excursions. — > 

1. Seir-kyran, 

2. Roscrea. 

3. Portumna and Loragh. 

4. Banagher, 

[G m. to the E. is Seirkyran, which 
was in old days an important eccle- 
siastical establishment, dedicated to 
St. Kyran. In addition to several 
ruins, there is a round tower about 
k 2<> ft. high, surmounted by a conical 
cap, at the base of which are several 
loopholes. The eh. has a figure of 
Kyran on the western gable, and 
on the eastern one of th< gular 

nude figures occasionally found. 

e parish is said to derive its prefix 

* 8 i heel," in consequent 

ape. I i is the & at of 

B. Smith, Esq.] 

( nveyance8r—Ha,i\ to B 
to Athlone, through F< rb ; d 
to Ballybrophy, to Ballinasloe, 
_h< r. 

If' tana 8. I '>■ rris, 18 m. ; ' 
1 1 ; Borrisokane, L2 
Portumna, L5 ; Long! i Frank- 

h 10. 

1' ' W Id and I' 

l! - J. Jol ostone, 1 , the road 

ruii- \.W. \ ■ r a i of 






Unite 28. — Wexford to Cork. 



Ireland. 



King's County to the valley of the 
Shannon, which is crossed at 61 m. 
Banagher (Rte, 34). 66J m. Near 
tl e rt, bank of the river at Shannon 
View (il. Moore, Esq.) the geologist 
will perceive one of those singular 
Eskers or drift ridges which run 
through the centre of the great lime- 
stonfe plain of Ireland. 

71 m. Eyreopurt is a small uninter- 
esting town adjoining the estate of 
the family of Eyre. Either of 2 roads 
may be followed from- Eyrecourt to 
Loughrea; the upper one passing 
Frenchpark, Belview (W. Lawrence, 
Esq.), Ballymore Castle (T. Seymour, 
Esq.), and the village of Kiltormer ; 
the lower one runs through Killimor,- 
crossing at Hearnesbrook a consider- 
able tributary. of the Shannon. 

Leaving on 1. Ballydoogan House 
(T. Burke, Esq.), the traveller soon 
enters 

91 m. Lourjhrea (Hotels: Carroll's, 
Lynch's), a Galway town of some 
note and beauty, situated on the 
northern bank of Lough Rea, a lake 
of between 2 and 3 m. in circum- 
ference, on which a large number 
of crannoges or ancient stockaded 
islands have lately been discovered. 
In the centre of the town are some 
remains of an E. Eng. monastery 
founded by Sir Richard de Burgh for 
Carmelite monks; also of the old 
fi >rtress built by the same individual, 
and once the residence of the Clan- 
ricarde family. There are, moreover, a 
couple of ruined towers, about 1 m. to 
the N. The scenery between Lough- 
rea and Athenry is of that peculiar 
rocky and desolate character which 
b Longs to Gal way, al though the mono- 
tony is somewhat relieved by the dis- 
tant vi iws of Slicvf Aughty to the S., 
on the confines of Clare and Galway. 
Passing St. Cleran's (Major Burke), 
Dunsandle (Lord Dunsandle), and 
Moyode Castle (B. Persse, Esq.), the 
tourist reaches the Midland Great 
Western Railway at Athenry (lite. 

1! 



ROUTE 28. 

FROM WEXFORD TO CORK, THROUGH 
WATERFORD, DUNGARVAN, AND 
YOUGHAL. 

The road from Wexford to New Eoss 
does not present any very remarkable 
features. It leaves the embouchure 
of the Slanev, and the Enniscorthv 
road, altogether to the rt. ; and at 
4Jm. [gives off a branch to 3Jm. 
the village of Taglvmon (Theagh 
Munno, "the House of Munno ") from 
a monastery founded by St. Munno 
in the 6th cent., of which very few 
traces now remain. Here are, however, 
a square tower, a portion of the old 
castle of the Talbot family, and a 
rude cross in the ch.-yard. Taghmon 
is situated near the N.W. foot of 
the Forth Mts., a conspicuous feature 
in South Wexford landscape, al- 
though only 776 ft. high. In the 
neighbourhood, and on the road to 
Foulkesmill, are Kaheenduff (Capt. 
Beattie), Horetown (S. GofF, Esq.), 
and Hillburn (T. Hawkshaw r , Esq.) ]. 

[8 m. rt. a road branches off to En- 
niscorthy, and a little farther on, also 
on rt., is Oamaross Hill, a singular 
granite hillock, 598 ft., an outlier of a 
low range of hills that intervene be- 
tween this district and New Ross. The 
road runs near a similar though rather 
more lofty eminence at Carrickburn, 
and then crosses this range, descend- 
ing on the other side directly upon 

22 m. New Boss (Hotels : Eoss ; 
Bridge), a busy, foreign-looking little 
town of about 5000 Inhab., with 
narrow streets running up the side of 
the hill and along the banks of the 



d. I? 28. — New Boss — St. Mi 



25 o 



Borrow, which is here a noble and 

stream, crossed by one of the 

den brid i - common in the 

8.E. oflr Land. Very shortly after the 

invasion, Rosswas founded by Isabella 

danght r of Btrongbow, and became 

at importance, the circuil of its 

: upwards of a mile, and 

ing a garrison of 363 eross- 

v men. 1200 long-bow archers, 

it pikemen, and 104 horsemen. A 

9 built : and " so anxious w< re 

the towi !e to accomplish their 

in; that n6t only did the 

who! • of the male population work at 

it by turns in companies, but many 

:nu women also aided in it, 

bo coi ;..:..•' which a strong tower 

Jili d Maiden Tow< r, v 

•ward in the town, for a 

Lusively for pei guilty 
. linst females." — Ia wis. 
I liamentary war. R ss ^ 

d for the Koyalists by the 
Duke of Ormonde; hut on the ap- 
pro Cromwell, it surrender) d 
mediately. The bridge of Rosse- 
1 is broken down by the Irish 
• ■ is time, and a ferry was u^ed 
until Lemuel Cox, who constructed 
tli" brid t Waterford, Wexford, 
Y d L odondi rrv. built the 
. which i ind 
allow of the navi- 
: merly had [ 
.all. d Bishop's ( rate Is 
: it is to the X. of the 
<-d point< 
I by the nai 
. from ; 
Qon-balls, fir< d by 
it 'I h< n are 
I od pointed 

w I tual oh , 

'. On the 

I II ell. 

Mar; d. The 

iul ii d ' r 1 monu- 

I iham, 

ruin 

: B 

R ■ I 

. and a ble 



trade in grain and coal : but it 
ia dependent on the port of Water- 
ford, which has had the best of it in 
the race for superiority. 
Although it is not the pleasant* 

of towns to stav at, it is a good i*v\\- 
tral point for excursions up or down 
the Barrow and Nore, which uni 
their streams about 2m. to the X. 
The Nore should be ascended by boat 
to Woodstock and Inistiogue. Rte. 

] 
[An excursion may be made up 

the Barrow, to St. Mull ins and 
Graiguemanagh. For the first mile 
the road winds up a terrace over- 
looking the broad reaches of the l iv< r, 
and passing on rt. the ancient keep 
of Mountgarrel ile. Descending 
the hill on the other side, having on 
1. Rosemount (E. Byrne, Esq, , and 
rt. Woodville (E.Tottenham, Esq.), 
it follows the 1. bank of the Barrow 
— the road on the rt. bank leading 
to Inistiogue, and by a more dir. 
route to Graiguemanagh. Near the 
site of MacMurrogh 1 tie the tra- 
iler tuvw^ off to Ballywilliam (Rte. 
26 , the present terminus of the Irish 
South-Eastern Ely. 

At (5.T m., where the Folhrinunfv 
stnam falls into the Barrow, the 
n< ry becomes very picturesque, 
; e Huro w flows between 3h. 
Brandon on 1. and the range of 
Blackstairs and Ml. Leinsb r on rt. 
The wa d< d banks i ich side of 
the river attain a height of 300 ft. 
or thereaboi] 

m. St. Muffins, a villi ge piac< 1 

in a mo irming situation at the 

mouth of a rivulet that flows from 

I rlynn. 

St. Muffins (fiom St. Moling, Bi- 

»p of I < ni~, who found* d a inon 

tery hi r<- was of anci i 

il importance, and i ven now o 

5 small structun a in 
1, « xtending from I 
W., : 2 walls, forming p 

1 the wesi i wall- of a 

.!. outside the enclot - B. 

of tic ' are remain.- of a stone 



25 6 



Bo ate 28. — Wexford to Cork. 



Ireland. 



cross and a small roofless building, 
with steps descending into it." 

The tide flows as far as St. 
Mullins — from whence the towing- 
path should be followed for the 
remainder of the excursion. The 
same character of scenery, viz. high 

>oded banks running- up towards 
the mountains continues nearly the 
whole distance; and about halfway 
on the opposite side are the ruins of 

Iway fortress. 

Graiguemanagh, 13 m., is con- 
nected by a bridge with the suburb 
of Tinnahineh, in the co. of Carlow,- 
the main part of the town being in 
Kilkenny. A portion of the old 
abbey founded by the Earl of Pem- 
broke in the 13th cent, is incorpo- 
rated with a R. C. chapel. Extending 
some distance down the river are 
the grounds of Brandon Dale (D. 
Burtchaell, Esq.). 

Distance. — 6 m. from Bonis. 

On the return from Graiguemanagh 
to Ross, the tourist should follow the 
direct road on the W. side of the 
Barrow ; and from it may easily as- 
cend Monnt Brandon, 1694 ft., one 
of the most graceful little hills in the 
S. of Ireland, and one from which 
the home views are particularly 
charming — the more extensive pros- 
pect to the E. being cut oft by Mt. 
Leinster and Blackstairs.] 

[Second excursion down the bank 
of the Barrow to Dunbrody, 9£ m., 
passing Oaklands (R. Tyndall, Esq.), 
Stokestown (T. Deane, Esq.), and 
Landscape (J. Usher, Esq.) on the 1. 
bank ; with Annagh's House (W. 
Sweet man, Esq.), and Castle on the 
opposite shore. With the exception 
of the conical hill of Slieve Killter, 
887 ft., on the 1., the country is com- 
paratively level, and very different 
from the deep ravines and dells of 
the upper part of the Barrow, near 
St. Mullins. 

Passing in succession Killowcnn 
(J. Glascott, Esq.), Pill town, and 
Kilmannoch House (G. Houghton, 
Esq. , the tourist crosses a small 



pill that joins the estuary of the 
Barrow, opposite Cheek Point, where 
the waters of the Suir fall in, and 
arrives at 9| m. Dunbrody Ab- 
bey, the largest and most beauti- 
ful ruin in the co. of Wexford. It 
dates fiom the 12th cent., when it 
was founded by Hervams de Monte- 
marisco, or Hervey de Montmorency, 
marshal of Henry II., and seneschal 
of the lands obtained by Strongbow, 
who, with a rare consistency, gave up 
all his property with the exception 
of the lands belonging to the abbey, 
of which he was first abbot. It 
is a cruciform church, consisting of 
nave, aisles, choir, transepts ; with a 
low and massive tower rising from 
the intersection. The great E. win- 
dow, which in Grose's time was 
singularly perfect, is a 3-light E. 
Eng, lancet window, deeply splayed 
inwardiy and surmounted by three 
smaller ones above. The nave is 
separated from the aisles by rows of 
Early Pointed arches, between which 
are trefoil-headed clerestory windows. 
The piers of the arches are square, 
and the arches themselves have par- 
ticularly good mouldings arising from 
corbels a little below the spring of 
the arch. Grose mentions the splen- 
dour of the W. door, which was 
adorned with " filigree open work cut 
in the stone." 

Close to the abbey, is Dunbrody 
Castle, a building of the time of 
Henry IL, incorporated with a mo- 
dern house. After examining Dun- 
brody, it will be better for the tourist 
to proceed further S., past Arthurs- 
town, a seat of Lord Templemore's, 
to Duncannon (p. 259), where the 
packet may be taken up the river 
to Waterford.] 

Conveyances. — From "New Ross to 
Enniscorthy ; car to Thomastown ; 
coach to Waterford and Wexford; 
steamer daily to Waterford. 

Distances. — Wexford, 22 m. ; Wa- 
terford, 1 5 ; Dunbrody, 9 J ; Bally- 
william, 5 ; Woodstock, 8 ; Inis- 



Ireland. 



Bouti 28.— Waterford. 



St. Mullins, 8j ; Tinne- 
:. 13. 
Ez - 9, — 

1. Dunbrody and Duncannon. 
8 St Mullins. 
[nistiogue. 
1. W< xtbrd. 

The read to Waterford or se - the 

w by the long wooden bridge 

t> Roaberoon, a pretty suburb, pos- 

- ring a few ruins of an old ch. or 

ompriaing a tower resting on 

4 ; larches and the Bide wall of 

I e aisle; and then turns to the 1. 

rt bank of the river, passing 

I. A- gh's Eonse W. Sw< etman, 

~ l , in who* are the 

'• " 9, Tl i scent ry i> 
iu.> na r this ] ' • :i ten 
••1 nmning close to the rivt r, which 
« «1 on i bank 

'h tl led denn 

>wn and Lands \t the 

vil - i ; Glenmore the traveller 

da a long and steep pitch, com- 

om the top a magnificent 

Brandon, Monnt Leinster, 

Blackstairs. Not much can 

scenery for- the r 

the journey, th< antry being 

nd hilly, with but little to 

lieve until the d< scent 

3 into ' v;i]i< y of 

nd p, - 

I nk, from which anotl 

n bri 

m. Tl" Port-lair 

Holds: Adelphi 

; Oum- 
i , • a city, b county, 
' of a d . and one 

I t towns i 

history d back 

. when th«- I • i ; , 

aly in 
throti 

9 W. <•: f ; . until 

B 

1 i < • 



2:~ 

them. Here Dermot M'Murrough, 
Kin- of Leinster, gave ln's daughter 
Eva to Btrongbow in marriage, when 
Henry IT. landed to take possession 
of his new kingdom. Subsequently, 
John Karl of Morton, when Lord 
Chief Governor of Ireland, < Btablislu <l 
a mint, a privilege which the city 
enjoy, d until the time of Edward 
IV. To detail all the nd 

revera a which it underwenl would 
to write the history of a great 
part of Ireland; for from its posi- 
a port, and its proa to 

Ei gl nd, scarcely anything import- 
ant took place that (lid nol di: 
<>r indirectly affect Waterford. It 
sustained a siege of VI days at the 
"\> of Perkin Warbeck and the 
Earl of Desmond; and again, in 
1641, by Cr< mwrll, who was obliged 
to retire. In the next year, how- 
r, the city capitulated to [reton. 
The situation of Waterford is ad- 
mirably adopt* d for a shipping port, 
its long quays stretching for more 
than a mile along the S. bank of 
the Suir, which rolls in a br m 

in a direction N.W. to S.E. 



" The pontic Shure, that making way 

By sweet Clonmell, adoraea rich Waterl< rd." 

A small portion only of the ei; 
on the X. bank r including the rly. t< r- 
minus of the Kilkenny and Limerick 
lip and below the bri the 
high grounds that oy< rlook the river 
adorm d with j \u\rv- 

I gardens. The cennec- 
i 1" tw< i n suburb of F< rry- 

d Watt rfbrd : tined 

a wooden bridj 332 ft. long, 
pported on pi« rs of Btone and 
'-. Like Wexford, this the 

work ofL< muel Cox, the •, ; r - 

chitect, who not only buill it m 
Mti.illy, hot -till mi re !v, 

estiraal I rrticulan of I 

buildi h on a tablet in 

the liii-ldh- of the bri h 

iption is nol 



258 



Movie 28. — Wexford to Corlc. 



Ireland. 



from the bridge is Worth a few mi- 
nutes' notice — from the picturesque 

:arpment of the banks in the im- 
mediate neighbourhood, the pretty 
hills on the one side, and the gradu- 
ally ascending tiers of houses on the 
other, with a long perspective of 
quay and river. 

With the exception, however, of 
this quay, and the Mall that 
runs out of it at right angles at 
the southern end, there is not a sin- 
gle good street in Waterford, which, 
it must be confessed, has, generally 
speaking, an ancient and fishlike 
smell, mixed up with odours of 
butter and pigs. The visitor will not 
wonder at this, when he observes that 
Waterford is the nearest and most 
crowded port of export for Irish pro- 
duce into England, particularly at 
the time of the sailings of the Bristol 
packets, when it would seem impos- 
sible to stow away the immense 
droves of cattle that throng the 
quays, and certainly do not add to 
the cleanliness of the streets. "The 
harbour of Waterford is formed by 
the channel of the Suir, from the 
city to its confluence with the Bar- 
row ; and from thence by the joint 
estuary of these rivers to the sea, a 
distance of 15m. ; the entrance 2Jm. 
wide, which is well lighted by a 
bright fixed light on Hook Tower, 
130 ft. above the sea, by a red light 
on Dunmore pier, and 2 leading 
I iglrts at Duncannon. Vessels of 800 
tons can discharge at the quays, 
winch are described by the Tidal 
Harbour Commissioners as the finest 
range in the United Kingdom. The 
income of the port, arising frojn ton- 
nage, ballast, anchorage, quayage 
dues, and pilotage, amounted in 
1843 to G948Z. On the Kilkenny 
side of the river there is a ship- 
building yard, with patent slip, 

Lving bank, and dock. The ex- 
perts are almost wholly agricultural ; 
the value of the principal articles 
exported in 1835 was, bacon and 
pork, 523,983/.; butter, 475,884/,; 



grain, 229,775/.; flour and meal, 
404,2G3Z. ; cattle, sheep, and pigs, 
137,098/.'' —Thorn's Directory. Not- 
withstanding its extreme age, it is 
surprising how few antiquarian re- 
mains are left : of the walls and forti- 
fications which surrounded it, and en- 
closed an area of 15 acres, there are 
only a tower, close to the Tramore rly. 
station, and the circular tower which 
stands at the corner of the Mall or 
Quay, and which we are told by an 
inscription was built by Reginald the 
Dane in 1003 ; held as a fortification 
by Strongbow in 1171 ; re-edified in 
1819, and now appropriated as a po- 
lice lock-up. It is mentioned as a 
curious feature t in the social history 
of Waterford that there were "in 
addition to the regular fortifications 
of the city, several private fortresses 
called by the names of their respec- 
tive proprietors, and supposed to 
have been not less than 20 in num- 
ber. In Colbeck Castle, from which 
that street took its name, was the 
Chamber of Green Cloth or Chamber 
of Waterford, sometimes used by the 
Mayor as a place of confinement for 
refractory citizens. The palace in 
which King John resided during his 
stay at Waterford occupied the site 
on which the Widows' Apartments 
are built, and on the erection of 
which the vaults of that ancient 
structure were discovered."— Leivis. 

There were also a Franciscan mo- 
nastery, on the site of which was 
established the Hospital of the Holy 
Ghost ; and a Dominican priory, the 
tower and belfry of which are still in 
existence. 

The cathedral is a large plain 
building, with a lofty spire, and re- 
placed (with the old materials) in 
1773 the ancient ch., built by the 
Ostmen of Waterford, in 1096. With 
the exception of one or two monu- 
ments it contains but little of in- 
terest ; adjoining it are an extremely 
comfortable-looking Bishop's Palace 
and Deanery. 

The K. C. Cathedral in Baron- 



Ireland. Route 28. — Duncannon—Hook Point. 






brand Str, has a fine though dingy 
. and is said to have been built 
. all of which was defrayed 
by pence taken at the door. 

fhe neighbourhood ofWaterford is 
'fully studded with seats, parti- 
cularly on the banks of the river. 
1' dry i re Rockshire (K. 

^ \. ), Rivi c View, Belmont, 

Barron Court sir Henry Barron), 
Killasp y a. Sherlock, Esq. . Rock- 
ad, el— to the ell., and Newpark 
G Bloomfield, Esq.). 

ices. — Rly. to Kilkenny, 
Li rick, an 1 Tram-re: iers 

daily t • Milfbrd with the mai 
a week t<> Bristol, once a w 
( H t • Plymouth, 

twice a w • k to London, three times 
to I. daily to Duncannon, 

ily to X. W R I ir daily to 

B rris, daily to Enniscorthy, daily to 
Iscr 33, daily to Dungarvan and 
Lis • daily to Youghal, daily to 
Maryl daily to Wexford. 

Du -Wexford, 37 m; New 

Ross, 15; Duncannon, 10J; Dun- 
dy, 7;..Pai 8; Thomastown 

1 Jerpoint, 20; Clonmel, 28; Car- 
le, 14; ] w, 10; Dungarvan, 

Kilmacthomas, L5; Tramore, 7. 
E . New Boss by steam* r, 

• ' oon by steamer, 

and Dunm 

[T L to P ' Duncan- 

tutifu] : the rii 
( b i ' ing bounded by hi 

which in fri qu< 

tty vi!. p out. On 

'•. . tnfield, 
i . ; L, Snov 

urviei irown- 

Ilill X. IV 
I the rt. B ilmonl W. I'iiz- 

E [.), I ;; tllycan? 

P. I' E , and 

1 Esq.). 

-' ■• dr- 'All is tl. 

I which 

6 in. ( I' at, 

win re the B ra 

with those of th E 



now be said to become an estuary. 
At the head of a small pil] on the 
opposite shore the ruins of Dunbn 
Abbey (p. 256) arc plainly visible in 
their desolate grandeur. The rivi r 
widens from Cheek Point to 8Jm. Pas- 
sage, from whence there is a ferry to 
Ballyhack and Arthurstown, where the 
cliffs beg-in to show themselves. At 
Ballyhack the tourist can get a car 
and visit Dunbrody. Passing Dun- 
brody, the seat of Lord Templemore, 
the steamer soon arrives at 

10} in. Duncannon, a pleasant villi 
trying hard to aspire to the dignitj 
a watering-place. From the reign of 
Henry II. a fort has existed here, 6 r 
the purpose of watching the ap- 
proach is to the harbour. It has 
en garrisoned since the time of the 
Spanish Armada, and occupies the 
projecting cliff to the V> r . of \ho vil- 
lage. "The fortifications, including 
the glacis, occupy about 3 statute 
acres, and are adapted for mounting 
40 pieces of cannon. It contains ac- 
commodation for 10 officers and 100 
men." — Fraser. 

From Duncannon the road con- 
tinues to skirt the coast until it 
reaches the villages of Slade and 
Churehtown, 2 vil at the end i f' 

the singular promontory of Hook 
Head, which juts out to 1 
narrow strip, barely j m. wide. At 
the extreme point is a fixed tight, 
at do t height above the e 

The wh( this district is full 

im The point of Bag-an-brun 

was the locale of the landing < t' 
Btrongbow and his adventurous band 
2! I of August, 1 L71, (he 
commi ocement of thai i r of con- 
qu< si by which the English obtain 1 
h an ascendanc; in It ! id. The 
of Hook Point eonsii 
adstones an : 
rlaid by carbonif! itone, 

kable forth I beauty 

found in if — such . 
A.-i ra, Sfichelina, a- 

fcia crinoid :" which 

Actinoc] ' Plat; ' 



260 



Route 28. — Wexford to Cork. 



Ireland. 



crinus, and Rhodocrinus are the 

most beautiful forms. — Harkness. 
• >uld the tourist have time, he may 
proceed inland on the road to Wex- 
ford, turning off to the rt. at Cur- 
raghmore to Tint&rn Abbey, the seat 

J. Colclough, Esq. William Mar- 
11, Earl of Pembroke, being ship- 
ped on this coast in 1200, founded 
abbey, which he peopled from, 
an 1 named after, the more celebrated 

iblishinent in Monmouthshire. Un- 
fortunately the mansion was formed 
out of the chancel, so that little but 
the tower remains to identify it. The 
eh. at Tintern contains a monument 
t ) the Colclough family, temp. 
Henry VIII., who, from holding 
estates that once belonged to the 
Church, are ever more under the 
" curse of fire and water." 

The sandy estuary of Bannow Bay 
appears to have been the boundary of 
the district occupied by the English 
settlers. It was then called the Pill, 
according to Holinshede, who writes 
that " Weisforde, with the territorie 
baied and pcrclosed within the river 
called the Pill, was so quite estranged 
from Irishrie, as if a traveller of the 
Irish had pitcht his foote within the 
Pill and spoken Irish, the Weisfor- 
dians would command him foorth- 
with to turne the other end of his 
toong and speake English, or els 
bringe his tronchman with him." 
The ravages committed by sand are 
exemplified in the old town of Ban- 
now, of which no traces can be seen, 
a ruined eh. being all that is left, 
though we know that it was of some 
ii te as late as Charles I.'s reign. 

At the mouth of the Corrock is 
Clonmines, where in the time of the 
Danes an ancient town existed of 
sufficient importance to possess a 
mint. Close to the river are the 
tower and walls of the Dominican 
monastery, founded by 
naghs in the 14th cent.; 
1 1 ick Castle, built by 

Sutton. There is also a picturesque 
chapel with 2 turrets, said to have 



the Kava- 
and of the 
the family 



been raised in memory of his mother 
by a cowherd, and still called the 
Cowboy's Chapel. From Clonmines 
there is a road to Wexford direct, or 
via Taghmon, up the vale of the Cor- 
rock, passing Kosegarland (F. Leigh, 
Esq.) and Coolcliffe House (,Sir W. 
Cox)] 

[The great attraction to the citizens 
of Waterford is Tramore, whither 
they betake themselves for sea-bath- 
ing by a short railway of 7 m. 
It leaves Waterford at the S. of 
the town, and pursues a most un- 
interesting route through sand-hills 
to Tramore (the Great Hotel), a 
pleasantly situated little watering- 
place, and a remarkably fine sea. 
It is placed on a hill at the N.W. 
corner of Tramore Bay ; a fine open 
bay, though terribly exposed to the 
southerly gales. The cliffs on the 
W. from Tramore to Great Newtown 
Head are bold and precipitous, but 
eastward is a long extent of narrow 
strand, which shuts off from the sea 
a large lagoon, known as the Back 
Strand. The only outlet of this im- 
mense body of water is at the E. 
boundary of the bay, where the cliffs 
ngain rise boldly, terminating at 
Brownstown Head. A scheme has 
been set on foot by Mr. Malcolmson, 
the good genius of Waterford, for the 
purpose of draining and reclaiming 
the Back Strand, a plan wdiich ought 
to yield a very handsome profit even- 
tually. 

The pillars scattered along the 
coast and - on the promontories are 
landmarks. The tourist who remains 
at Tramore may excurse to Punmore 
(easier visited from Waterford), a 
picturesque little bathing village, 
with some interesting caves in the 
cliffs. The geologist will find in the 
neighbourhood of Tramore Lower 
Silurian rocks of Bala and Caradoc 
age.] 

A coach leaves Waterford daily for 
Dungarvan and Youghal. 

For the first few miles the road is 
uninteresting, all views of the river 






JR ' 28. — Kilmacthomas — I) 



- : 



tin- rt., and the a a on the 1., b< ing 

cui by intervening high ground, 

althoug i the course of the Suir is 

plainly marked as far aa Clonmel. 

11 m. the grounds of Whitfield 

W. Christmas, Esq, on L, and Mount 

( J. C . u> vw. K^[.) on rt., 

I r a pr< tty bit of landscape, and 

n the travels r gains ini views 

I ommeragh Mountains, pari of 

tuthern range that forms 

{he backbone of Walerford, 

> 

- iii. E is, an exposed 

_■ little villa I u- 

side the banks of the 

dion, wb iking its rise on the 

K . mafTiin, 2336 it.. 

»wn to the sea. [Ar 

bathing vil. i 5 

dde of 

>pper-minea of 

•!), irds 

it of produc . - id luii. 

in I tnd, yielding in 1 858 4700 

of 42 V 500Z,] 

imtain pedestrian may make 

a v« ry pleasant excursion from Kil- 

Lak< Qoomshingawn, 

. a deep tarn nearly 

I by a wall of rock — one 

- in the 
intry. te stream thai 

m it is at ilia d ai the t. 
rtlaw. It Li >u1 6 m. to the X.. 

" I ins, 

i ft. "The pre- 

mountains | 

rkable appearand d 

. shioiting, from their 

td d< seding 

of light and 

— / V >■-■■ r. 

■ me 

f hills, under the name of 

i Mountains, trt 
8.W., ovi riot king dbally 
ami Dungarvan, the road to tl: • la 

ing ai their base, passing 

. < _ i i J 1 1 1 i 1 . 

rahvil Prom the p hill 

Dalligan riv( r a very 

lo> ined of Dun- 



rvan, with its bay, and Hel\ 
Head in the distance. 

I 3 m. rt. ( lloncoskoran, the seai of 
Sir X. Humble, in whose grou 
then- is a singular gap or pa 
the wooded range behind. From 
hence it is 3 m. to 

Dungarvan [Hotel, Devonslii 
Arms, very bad), a seaport contai 
very little of interest and an imm 
deal of dirt (Pop. 5886 ■ It \ 
place of greater importance in early 
times, and had the honour of - - 
vera! charters from various 
reigns. It was saved the fete of bom- 
bardment by Cromwell, who wi - - i 
flattered by a woman drinking 
health at the entrance of the i >\vn, 
thai he spared it. A portion of ; 
p of the castle, founded by Ki 
John, still exists; but the mosi h 
]■• sting remains are at Abbeyside, a 
district on the opposite shore of 
harbour, winch is connected with 
Dungarvan by a causeway and 
arched bridge, crossing the Corrigan. 
TheAbb* yside ruins consisi of a ki ep 
of a fortress, erected by theM'Grat] -. 
who were also the founders of 
Augustine monastery, now incor- 
porated with a R. 0. chapel. A v< ry 
grao ful tower, with some E. E 
arches, remain in statu quo, Th< re 
is a pretty view from the ch-yard. of 
the estuary and the opposite town. 
Dungarvan is mainly the prop i 
Duke of Devonshire, who I 
ay improvements, thou 
cannot be enumi 
among tin m. Should the tourist 
spending an aft moon bere, he n 
wad; out 1 m. to Belvick Head, 
boundary of the harbour, where, if 

the* is at all rough, th< 
La rare to b a fine sea. 

Distances. — Stradbally, 8 m.: B 

12 1 : Kilmacthomas, 1 1 ; 
Waterford, 29; H« Ivick, 7 ; I 
25 ; ( 1 igan, i ; Ardmore, 1 I 

lO _e.:ih I . 

' .—Coach daily to e 

ford, daily t i You^hal, daily to L 
; [ ; tunel, by aj 



202 



Route 28. — Wexford to CorJc. 



Ireland. 



turesquc route over the higfi grounds 
between the Monavullagh and the 
Knockmeile-down Mountains. For 
the first few miles the road winds by 
the side of the glen of the Colligan, 
a charming ravine, bordered on each 
side by thick woods of birch and fir. 

About 4 m. up is Colligan, the seat 
of J. Gallwey, Esq., overlooking the 
glen and the distant bay of Dungar- 
van, and backed up by ranges of 
mountains. 

A still more charming view is 
gained on the descent into the valley 
of the Nier, a rapid and impetuous 
stream, rising on the slopes of Knock- 
anarYrin, near the source of the Mahon. 
As we descend this valley we pass 
Ballymacarbry, a seat of Lord Strad- 
brooke, and the residence of his agent, 
A. Coates, Esq. ; and a little further 
on Ballymakee (Capt. Miilcahy). 

From this point the Nier dashes 
off to the 1., to fall into the Suir, the 
road climbing a long hill, and even- 
tually descending into the richly culti- 
vated vale of the Suir. The main 
points of scenic interest in this valley 
are the noble peaks of the Galty moun- 
tains on the 1., with their peculiar 
ravines and gullies (Rte. 30), and the 
rounded boss of Slievenaman right 
over Olonmel. At 25 m. the Suir is 
crossed by a handsome stone bridge, 
and the traveller enters Clonmel (Ete. 
30). Hotels : Hearne's, comfortable ; 
CantweU's.] 

From Dungarvan to Youghal the 
road is hi lly. At Killongford Bridge, 

2 m., it crosses. the mouth of the 
river Brickey, and ascends a low 
range of hills that run in a S.E. di- 
rectien from the Blackwatcr, near 
Lismore, to the Suir. At the 11th 
m. from Dungarvan a tVtour should 
be made to the l.for 3 m. to Ardmore, 
to visit its interesting remains. 

They consist of a round tower, 
cathedral, church, oratory, and well 
— nearly all bearing the name of the 
patron saint and early missionary 
St. Declan, who was the son of a 
noble family in the county of Water- 



ford, and commenced his Chris- 
tianising labours about the 5th cent. 
Of all the buildings, the oratory is 
the most ancient, and probably of 
the same date as St. Declan — a rude 
primitive little hut of 13 ft. long by 
8 ft. broad, the door of which (now 
blocked up by accumulations of 
earth) has its lintel formed of a 
single stone. The side walls pro- 
ject a little beyond the roof. It is 
lighted by an E. window with a 
single-piece circular head. There 
was also a monastery founded by 
Declan, which appears to have ar- 
rived at considerable importance in 
learned and ecclesiastical matters, 
its heads usually ranking as bishops. 

The Cathedral consists of a choir, 
probably the earliest portion of the 
building, which is separated from a 
nave of later date by a remarkably 
beautiful pointed arch with capitals 
sculptured in the form of lotus-buds. 
This portion w T as entered from the S. 
by a doorway, now built up, and pre- 
sents in the N". Avail a course of ma- 
sonry of rude and Cyclopean charac- 
ter, probably of the same date as the 
oratory. The nave is of the 11th 
cent., called by Mr. Hayman " of 
the Hiberno-Eomanesque style." It 
was entered by a doorway on the S. 
(now blocked) and one on the N., 
containing a good round-headed 
arch, within which a later pointed 
door has been inserted. The N. 
wall of the nave contains not only 
the 2 available windows, but also 
decorations of arcades of very early 
Norman (Saxon?) date. The chief 
beauty of design, however, is la- 
vished on the W. gate, " which pre- 
sents a series of sculptured niches of 
elaborate execution. About G ft. 
from the ground are 2 large semi- 
circular-compartments, enclosed in a 
moulded string-course. In that to 
the N. are 3 arched niches, the cen- 
tral one containing a sculpture repre- 
senting the Tree of Life, with the 
serpent coiled round the trunk, and 



Ireland. 



Runic 28, — Ardm 






Adam and Eve standing on either 

I : q right-band niche of this 

mpartmt nt commemorates the con- 

\ don of the Pagan Prince of the 

1» isi, who, with his spear couched 

Mid >n his shoulder, bows 

himself before the Christian ims- 

iv. The h ft-hand niche con- 

an ox. At the top of the S. 

tnpartment is the Judgment of 

od below it are u' niches, 

in [uare niche to the i Ktreme 

l.-it b the Virgin and Child, and 

emaining i the Magi with 

I - Hay man. The 

in* athedral contains 

trefoil-headed canopy, a sepulchral 

,i ston - 

i - ; -5, i tK of which 

j the ' hat ■• Li 

hudh died in ti - on a day lie 

md is entomb d in the 

knarks 

irial-p ;" •• Amada." 

md tower Is remarkably 
I is 97 ft. in height, with 
I cap • liat thrown out 

tendicular by lightning. 
i- is 13 ft. firom the ground, 
I has bead d i round the 

I divided by 

jes in - 1 < » ii» -, ail of 

y I..- viewed from the 
dder which 
door. •• i 
lighted by splayi 
liavii 

• 

po- 

The 
1 window 

i ov< r the 0] 
the bell d, 

de p 

: • it v. 
: I • 

numb< 






' 









the round towers were used princi* 
pally for sepulchral purposes— a con» 
clusion which is argued against by 
ftfr. Petrie in his volume un U 
Round Towers, p. 81. 

St. Dedaris }V<11 stands on a rather 
precipitous rock, oyerhanging the 

i. Oyer the 2 doorways are rudely 

dptured effigies of the Crucifixion. 
The f< stiyal of St. Declan is laid on 
11. o 24th July, when numbers of 
devote^ s atu nd and perform the 
penance of crawling under St. De- 
clan's stone. 

Cloa to the well i> TeampuU 1) - 
oari C hurch of the South), supposed 
to have been erected in the IS 
cenfc by Moel-ettrim CDhuibe 

thra, Bishop of Ardmore. The 
remains consist ofaW. gable and S. 
wall, with a doorway in the lat; 
possessing "the keystone of ti 
flat arch, on its bend, apparently in- 
verted—a matter which has - 
rise to much speculation ; hut the r - 
Milt of a keen scrutiny will show 
that it was so cat to the depth of a 
few inches only, and that then it is 
constructed as usual to meet U.l- la 
i-avitation." 

From Ardmore the | rian d 

walk p.i>t Whiting Bay and W< i cl- 
bine Hi!!, an anci i1 i f 

I niilv. to the Ferry. 'J' 

-road ■ .i I n :« i- roui 

rejoining the Dm 

isalebeg, and passing Pilltown, 
where sli remains of 
th«- Walsh< a exist It i.- said thai a 
small pill on which the villa. 
situ ited w. remote do 

the ancient con i r, 

whi mptied itself into Whitii 
d «.f that of YoughaL 

I fir, in 1 -•_*:•. l 

. at a 0081 ! ; 

17-7 ft. long, and 

I it. 

iridge w 
ewav 



2G4 



Route 28. — Wexford to Corlc. 



Ireland. 



the tourist enters the county of Cork, 
and 81 in. the thriving seaport of 

Youghal (anc. Eochaill) (Rte. 
29) (Hotel : Devonshire Arms) ; 
a pretty and interesting town situ- 
ated on the side of a hill, partly 
wooded and partly rocky, overlook- 
ing the mouth of the Blackwater, 
which, immediately after passing the 
bridge, swells out into a lagoon of 
considerable size, though shallow 
depth, with flat shores on either side. 
Between the town and the ferry it 
becomes very much narrower, but 
immediately widens again, while the 
character of its banks change to 
rocky and precipitous headlands. 

The town (Pop. 6514) consists of 
a main street over 1 m. in length, 
with branches to the water's side ; 
and thrives, as is perceptible at 
a glance, by its coasting -vessels 
and trade. The tourist will, first 
of all, visit the ch. of St. Mary, a 
beautiful collegiate building, lately 
restored to its former magnificence 
from the ruins in which it lay for so 
many years. As long ago as 1681 it 
is described by Dyneley " as being in 
use, though much out of repaire. It 
was antieatly a collegiate church, and 
at this time sayd to be the fairest 
parish church of the province." This 
establishment was founded in 1464 
by the Earl of Desmond, and con^ 
sisted of a warden, 8 fellows, and 
8 singing-men ; and the building, as 
it stood prior to the restoration, was 
of remarkably beautiful Dec. archi- 
tecture. 

Externally "the ch. consists of a 
nave with side aisles, a chancel with 
battlemented wall — to which a sa- 
cristy, now taken away, was once 
attached — 2 transepts, with a tower, 
the wall of which is 8 ft. in thick- 
ness. A round tower stood at the W. 
end, and on the S. of the ch. a 
mortuary chapel extended for some 
distance. There is a good Early Eng. 
W. door, with circular shafts and 
clustered mouldings. On entering 
this door is a round-headed arch 



leading to the round tower. The 
nave is separated from the side aisles 
by 5 Early pointed arches on each 
side. Notice in the N. transept a 
singular obtuse-angled arch, sepa- 
rating a little chapel from the middle 
aisle ; a carved-oak pulpit ; a re- 
stored monument to Hartford, Mayor, 
1618; a double piscina; a monu- 
ment to the Uniacke family, 1632 ; 
Tobins floor monument, 1517; Llew- 
ellyn, Mayor of Youghal, 1628; 
also a round -arched Norman tomb. 
The N. aisle contains a curious 
wooden cradle, in which the sword 
of the corporation used to repose ; 
also the Early Eng. tomb and recum- 
bent figure of the Earl of Desmond, 
the founder of the ch. ; and an octa- 
gonal font of black marble. On the 
N. side of the chancel is the door of 
the sacristy, and on the S. is one 
leading into the college. It is lighted 
by a good 6-light E. window of 
stained glass, contains an altar-tomb 
to Thomas Fleming, and sedilia on 
tjie S.W. Observe also above the 
windows the apertures for reverbera- 
tion. In the S. transept, otherwise 
called the Lady Chapel, are the tombs 
of Richard Bennett and the Earl of 
Cork. 

The ch.-yard is surrounded by the 
town- walls of Youghal, flanked by 
the Earl of Cork's ugly round towers 
and 5 pieces of his artillery. The 
visitor should ascend the tower for 
the sake of the view, which, though, 
not extensive, is very pretty — em- 
bracing on the N. the wooden 
bridge over the Blackwater, the 
wooded hills above, and, in the ex- 
treme distance, the summits of Slieve^ 
naman and the Knockmeiledown 
Hills. On the E. is Ferry Point, 
with its ch., while immediately under- 
neath lies the town with its ruined 
abbeys and populous streets in close 
juxtaposition. 

To the N. of the ch. is the house 
of Sir Walter Raleigh, who, in 1588- 
89, was chief magistrate of Youghal,. 
where he was in the habit of en- 



Ireland, Route 28. — KUleagh — Castlemartyr, 



265 



tertaining tin- poet Spenser. It is 
now the pro] erty of B. W. Fine. 
Esq., « ho allows visitors to inspect 
the grounds. It is a perfect Eli- 
han gabled house, with some 
of the rooms wainscoted and deco- 
rated with carved oak, and is 
id to contain a subterraneous 
pass from the dining-room to the 
oh. In the garden is Raleigh's 
yew-tree, where the knight, under 
the influence of his beloved tobacco, 
was in the habit of poring over his 
favourite 'Faerie Queen.' This gar- 
den is also celebrated as being the 
Le of the firsi potato planted 
in Ireland. V. of the town 

i- the Dominican Friary, founded in 
1268 by Thomas Fitzgerald, sur- 
nam- 1 the Ape, The remains con- 
f the W. gable with' its door- 
v and ; srht window, and a 

porti' arch connecting the 

nave with the aisle. Th« re are 
also some traces of the St. John's 
II B nedictines, founded in 

1 r :. ■•■ nt.. and converted in the 
_ of Charles II. into a storehouse 
mmnnition. The E. 

wall of the chapel po a pointed 

\ay. with ornamented spandrils, 
and a t» -w square-headed windows. 
( inces from Youghal. — Rail 

( rk : a steamer in the summer 
1 iquin. Car to Water- 

ford and I'm. a, 

Disi \ rdmore, by the f< rry, 

m.; I > . . ,18; ( ppoquin, ' 

I. liy. In; Bhin- 

M dleton, L5 ; < rk, 21, 
/ . — 

l ' id the Blackwal 

I tyr. 

Ardmoi 
'I ider of the route from 

Y ( rlc is traversed by r 

qo< co itain anything of 
oarkable into 

91 .. KUl mall town, ad- 

■ 
family of B 

an unusual 
which intry 



cognised by terming it "The Maiden 
Estate,' 1 in allusion to its nev< c 
having been forfeited. The grounds, 
which extend for a considerable dis- 
tance up the romantic glen of 11 o, 
Dusoin, are celebrated for their 
beauty and the extent of the views. 

A little to the 1. of Mogeely Slat., 
94 m., is the town and demesne of 
C<i.<fl< martyr, the former once a place 
of considerable importance, as com- 
manding the country between Cork 
and Youghal, and the latter the 
beautiful seal of the Earl of Shan- 
non. Within the grounds are 2 
ruined chs., and the remains of the 
castle of [mokillv, which underwent 
at different times much Bevere treat- 
ment, and was eventually taken after 
a longish siege by Lord [nehiquin 
in 1645. Vassing Drookdale House, 
we arrive at 

99 m. Middleton, a neat and 
pretty town of one long street 
{Inn: Buckley's), chiefly remark- 
able for its distilleries — one esta- 
blishment alone, that of Messrs. 
Murphy, producing 400,000 gallons 
of whisky annually. With this 
exception there is nothing to Bi 
1 m. to the S. is BaUinacurra, a small 
port at the mouth of the Owencurra 
river, from whence the tourist n. 
run up to Cork by steamer, whi b 
starts twice a-day. In the neigh- 
bourhcx d of Miadelton, n< ar the 
rly., are ( Sahermore Viscount Mid- 

• 

dleton), in the grounds of which i 
the nuns of c ; Roxborough ; 
Killeagh ; Broomfi< Id 1). lie 
phries, i Ballyedmond J. 

Court] and l>allv-na- 

Glashy 'if. Wilson. Esq.). 

1":; in., passing ( larrigtuohill 8 
near which a number of subt< rram i 
chambers w< i r. d in 

the rly. tn of the innu- 

m< rable mazi - of l iough Mahon, 

1 soon joins th 

itinuii ok of tl 

I. e to Cor] ds: [m - 

i 



2(jG 



Route 29. — Yoaglial to Caliir. 



Ireland. 



EOUTE 29. 

FROM YOUGHAL TO CAHiR, THROUGH 
LISMORE AND FERMOY. 

By this route the tourist follows 
the vale of the Blackwater, which, 
more than any other river in Ireland, 
abounds in scenery of a high order, 
with many interesting ruins and 
remains. During the summer a 
steamer leaves Youghal to make the 
excursion up the river about 3 times a 
week, but, as the navigation extends 
only to Cappoquin, the rest of the 
journey has to be performed by road 
and rail. Inquiries should be made 
at Cork as to the times of sailing, 
which are somewhat uncertain. The 
Blackwater, spoken of by the poet 
Spenser as 

" Swift Awnirtuffe, which by the Englishman 
Is callde Blackewater " — 

has a course of nearly 80 m., taking 
its rise in the mountain of Slieve- 
logher, on the borders of counties 
Cork and Kerry, and flowing thence 
nearly due E. past Mallow, Fermoy, 
Lismore, and Cappoquin, at which 
point it turns S. to enter the sea at 
the bay of Youghal. 

On leaving the pier at Youghal, 
the steamer approaches the Ferry 
Point, where, in 1G45, Lord Castle- 
haven made a vain attempt to bom- 



bard the town; from thence passes 
through the long wooden bridge 
built by Nimmo (Rte. 28) ; and 
at once enters the narrows of the 
river, which are flanked on the 1., 
near the confluence of the Towing 
with the Blackwater, by the wooded 
hill of Ehincrew (Rinn-cru — Point of 
Blood). On the summit are the 
dilapidated ruins of the fortress of 
the same name, formerly a precep- 
tory of the Knights-Templars, and 
founded by Raymond Le Gros in the 
12th cent. They appear to have 
consisted of an irregular quadrangle, 
containing chapel, cloisters, refectory, 
kitchen, and dormitories; the refec- 
tory stands at right angles to the 
chapel, possesses a portion of vaulted 
roof, and is lighted by 7 narrow, 
deeply-splayed windows. At the 1ST. 
end of the refectory is the kitchen, 
and above it are the walls of the dor- 
mitories. On the opposite bank is 
Ardsallagh House (J. Ronayne, Esq.), 
and at the junction of the Glen- 
dine river on 1. 4 m. Temple Mi- 
chael ch. and castle — a square 
keep, with a round flanking tower on 
the N.E. On the N. bank of the 
Glendine is Ballynatray, the beautiful 
seat of the Hon. C. M. Smyth. 
Close to the bank of the Blackwater, 
and, in fact, joined to the mainland 
by a causeway, are the ruins of the 
abbey of Molana, founded in the 6th 
cent, by St. Molanfide for Augus- 
tinians. To commemorate this fact a 
statue of the saint in his Augustinian 
robes was erected by a late owner of 
Ballynatray in the quadrangle of the 
abbey — the same lady depositing a 
funeral urn in memory of Raymond 
Le Gros, who, according to the au- 
thority of the Carew MSS., was buried 
here in 1186. 

On the S. bank of the Glendine 
is Chcrrymount (Lady Thackwell), 
and on the opposite side of the 
Blackwater is Loughtane (S. Allin, 
Esq.), a former seat of the Bluetts, 
temp. Henry VIII. The river here 
slightly widens, and a small pill 



Ireland. 



H > ' 29, — Cappoquin — Li&more. 



267 



runs in from Olashmore, the property 
! [untingdon, who ob- 
ued it by marriage into the family 
; OWI r. 

7 in. 1. are the rains of Strancalty 

C Stle, ••Sirat':i-ii;i-C'ailli-lH\" "The 

Hags Ii Im" — finely placed on a 

•k overlooking the river. In this 

k is a cave or chamber, popularly 

known as the "Murdering Hole," 

icerning which alegend is current 

that one of the lords of the castle * 

in • habit of making his gu< 

rry with wine, and then despatch- 

g them in this cave for the sake of 

ing their posa ssi< us I i his own. 

the ferry of Cooneen, we 

. S ally New Castle 

I r. W. Lloyd, Esq . very prettily 

r with Ih adborough 

Si 3 t the junc- 

1 1 Le with the Black- 

w.-r The former is a fine castel- 

■ d building, from a design by Mr. 

k. 
12 in. Villierstown, a small villa 
wl be Earl of Grandison vainly 

tblish the linen manufac- 
tn 

r up, on rt.. is 1 tromana Foi I 
: ! I Stuart 

D .In the grounds the 

of an old fortn ss of the I ' 

rhich v "Cat! 

Con i ; ad, who, 

f 140 ted 

; < »urt to peti- 

- I. her . of 

• Earl 
i I deprived hi r. The 

1 in this 

r Droi 

ighl from thi I anary 

5 r Walt id the 

ittributed to have 

quence of a fall 

. — // 

i-t 
hills which hs 

: the di 'id 

1. The 

int i - ah 



MH'-niaol-tlnn, — bare, brown hill , 

19 ft., the summit of the Loi 
chain of hills between Lismore and 
Clonmel. 

At L5 in. Aflane was born Valen- 
tine Greatorex, celebrated for his 
so-called miraculous power of curing 
diseases by stroking the hand ofth i 
individual. He lived in the ITlh 
cent. Amine I [ouse is the seat of S. 
Power, Esq. On opposite bank is 
Tourin Sh' Richard Musgrave, Bart.). 
Higher ap, near the ruin of Norm- 
island Castle, the navigation partly 
ceases in consequence i shallow- 

ness of the riv 

17 in. Cappoquin (Hotel: Power's) 
i> a charmingly placed town at the 
bend of the Blackwater, where it 
turns to the S. The castle, of which 
there are no remains, was I I 

and i by Lord Castlehaven in 

L645. The river is crossed bya stone 
bridge, which replaced a singular tim- 
ber viaduci built by the Earl of Cork. 
Overlooking the town arc the pretty 
grounds of Cappoquin Houj rJohn 
Ivane). It is an interestin q 

from here to the monasfa ry of Mount 
Melleray, a convent of Trappists, 
on the slope-; of the mountai 
aboul 4 in. to the X. It is a la- 
quadrangular building, tl of 

the square occupied by r>i'* cl 
kitchens, dormitorii s, and 
The whole of the 
tn tnely l»i<;ik and wild, hui i 
labours of the brethren have \ 
much improvi 1 ii a external app< 

Prom (' ippoquin are 2 charm- 
on < ach side the 
riv< r, to 

21 in. /. //' '' I: 1 1 

iv A rms . The f 

ho] ric is ascril li, 

in the 7th <•< i '.. v - hi -■■ i 

ii attracted nol only i 

rned a en, bul oth 

ceful i« nden l as tl 

D 10 lly 

• m n until th< i r 

Ear] of Mi rt 
in L2ti o at. This 

N 2 



268 



Boute 29. — Youghal to Cahir. 



Ireland. 



was the residence of the bishops 
of the diocese until it was granted 
by Neil Magrath to Sir Walter Ra- 
leigh, who sold it to the Earl of 
Cork, from whom it eventually came 
by marriage to the present owner, 
the Duke of Devonshire. Lismore 
is placed at a considerable height 
above the river, which is crossed 
by a stone bridge of remarkably 
good span. On the brink of the 
water is the castle, a lofty and exten- 
sive pile of building ; the greater 
part is the work of the 2nd Earl of 
Cork. " The first doorway is called 
the Eiding-house, from its being ori- 
ginally built to accommodate 2 horse- 
men who mounted guard, and for 
whose reception there were 2 spaces, 
w r hich are still visible under the arch- 
way." Over the gateway are the 
arms of the Earl of Cork, with the 
motto " God's providence is our in- 
heritance." The interior of the castle 
is beautifully fitted up, and has within 
the last few years been decorated by 
the hands of Mr. Crace. The entrance 
saloon and the dining-room are both 
splendid apartments, although the 
drawing-room carries off the palm, 
from the exquisite view from the 
windows. The castle is still in pro- 
cess of remodelling. One of the win- 
dows is called King James's win- 
dow, from the circumstance of his 
entering the room, and starting 
back in a fright at suddenly see- 
ing the great depth at which the 
river flowed below, an appearance 
which is due to the great difference 
of level between the N. and the S. 
fronts. The view from the upper 
rooms up and down the Blackwater is 
one of the most beautiful in the S. of 
Ireland, and embraces the Heights 
of Knockmeiledown and the town of 
Cappoquin. The cathedral ch. of St. 
Carthagh, which possesses an ex- 
tremely graceful white limestone 
spire, was restored and almost 
re-edified by the Earl of Cork in 
1603, and has since had many ad- 
ditions; the choir contains some 



stained glass, and a monument to the 
family of Magrath, 1548. "This 
building was held in such veneration 
by the Irish that, in 1173, Kaymond 
le Gros found, when wasting the 
Decies country, that the easiest mode 
of extracting a heavy black-mail lay 
in the threat of burning down the 
cathedral." The ecclesiastical annals 
of Lismore do not include anything 
of note, either in the roll of bishops 
or the history of the diocese ; but the 
parish can boast of being the birth- 
place of two celebrated men — Robert 
Boyle the philosopher, and Con- 
greve the poet. To the E. of the 
town is a rath, which gave the 
name of Lis Mor (Great Fort). 
The neighbourhood of Lismore is 
richly adorned with well- wooded 
seats and plantations, the principal 
of which are Salterbridge f R. Chearn- 
ley, Esq.), Bellevue, Ballyrafter, 
Ballyinn ( — Kane, Esq.), Glen- 
caim Abbey (G. P. Bushe, Esq.), 
Fortwilliam, and Ballysaggartmore, 
the elaborate Gothic residence of 
A. Usher, Esq. 

Conveyances. — Coach to Waterford, 
through Dungarvan. 

Distances. — Youghal, 21 m. ; Cap- 
poquin, 4 ; Mallow, 33 ; Fermoy, 16 ; 
Tallow, 4 ; [the latter a village to the 
S.W. on the Bride, which is navig- 
able up to this point. 

Close to the village is the castle 
of Lisfinny, a strong, square tower of 
3 stories, once the residence of the 
Desmonds, but now incorporated 
with the modern house of Major 
Croker. From the battlements is a 
charming view of the valley of the 
Bride. 

Between Tallow and Rathcormack 
is Britway, which contains an inte- 
resting old ch. ; the doorway has a 
flat architrave, carried along the 
sweep of the arch till it terminates 
in a curious figure in the keystone. 

About 4 m. W. of Tallow is the 
lofty square tower of Conna on a 
high limestone rock overlooking the 
Bride.] 



Ireland. 



"Route 29. — Fermoy. 



2(59 



IV >m Lasmore the road continues 
along the X. or 1. bank (4' the Black- 
water, passing Ballysaggartmore and 
FlowerHill B. Drew, Esq.), to 21 
m. Ballyduff. On the opposite bank 
Glencairn, Fortwifiiam, Bally- 
gally, and Glenbeg. At Ballyduff 
the river is crossed. A Little further, 
29 m. n.. is the ruin ofMacollop Castle, 
and 33 m. on the same side Kil- 
murry T. Grant, Esq.). 

37 m. Fermoy Hotel: Queen's 
Ani - has grown up to its presenl 
importance entirely within the last 
I or Tn year-. At tliat time there 
re only a few cabins ; bul a Mr. 
Anderson 1 milt an hotel and some 
u\ houses, and finally entered into 
in. 'lit for the en ction of 
me barracks with the Govern- 
ment, which was anxious to form a 
atral military depot; as such it has 
an- I the purpose, and is now 
_ i stations in Ireland. 
The barracks are on the N. side of 
the river, and are divided into 
two establishments, called the E. 
and W. barracks, to accommodate 

n-ly :'.! men. Those on the 

W. ■ for some time used 

Union House. The greater part 
►wd is "ii the B. bank of the 
Blackwater, which is cross d bv a 
bridg L3 arches. It is spacn 
d well built, having been care- 
ly laid out by Air. A son, who 
district by roadmaki 
mail-coachi s, some- 
wl ter the fashion of Air. Bian- 

1 1 i huilr a large military 
died the Colli ge. Al- 
i is a modern town, 

1 antiquities in the 
1. The ry, mere- 

ly pn tty, the riv( r- 
banks l < l< vated 

with many an ov( r- 
.: planl and pn tty villa. 

•.-.. U-planted 
i Bona . I 

mill! I 



rigabrick and Liclash Castles, on the 
S. and N. banks respectively. 

I vnveyances. Rail to Mallow; car 
to Mitchelstown. 

Distances. — Mallow, 17 m.; Mit- 
chelstown, LO : tla' Caves, 16; Cahir, 
27; Lismore, 16 ; Cappoquin, 20; 
Rathcormack, 4J ; Kilworth, 3. 

Excursions. — 

1. Mallow. 

2. Lismore. 

3. Glanworth. 

4. Mitchelstown and Caves. 

[The journey from Fermoy to 
Mallow is usually performed by the 
rly., which, by keeping on high 
ground, dots nol allow many of the 
beauties of the Blackwater to be 
visible. To the N. the high ranges 
of the Knockmeiledown have dis- 
appeared, hnt on the S. is a new 
chain of hills, known as the Nagles 
Mountains, of which the heights of 
Enock-naskagh, 1406 ft., andCorran, 
1345 ft., are most conspicuous. Quit- 
ting Fermoy by the road, the tourist 
passes Castle Hyde (J. Hyde, Esq. , 
Cregg Castle (T. Hyde, Esq.), and 
Templemore, on the N, bank, and 
Cregg O'Lympry on the S. The 
scent ry is particularly pretty at Bally- 

hooly, where a road IS given oil* it. to 

( astli rock, and 1. to Mallow crossing 
the river and ( lork. 

Near Ballyhooly are the - of 
• avamore Earl of Listowel , Rennv 
l\ Blackburne, Esq. , and Wood* 
ville R. Gibbings, Esq. . 

At 19 m. ( Jastletownroche Station 
the line crosses the Awb g Spenser's 
Mulla, p. 237 al it- confluence with 
the Blackwater. The village lies 
nearly 1! m. rt, and is picturesquely 
situatt d on the Awbeg, which runs 
l„ twe< n precipitous banks. Incorpo- 
rated with ( lastle Widenham is the old 
1 , i p of the fortress of the Roc] 
w bich was defended in 1649 by Lady 

che for many days againsl ( Jrom- 
weU*s army. The eh. is n markable 
ai ' spire : "the lowi rstaei 

pi toed with a window on 



270 



Route 29. — Toughal to Cdhir. 



Irjxaxd. 



the copings (V which form a zigz 
■ inued all round." 
Clo to th • nil - Glananore, 
hig 25 are BaUy- 

B. Welsted, Esq. , Bock 
I Aiinsgrov B. Ann* sley, Esq.). 
are the remains of 
.•]), founded in 
Bj John by Fitzhugh 
Roch . On L I I (0- Tisdale, 

ad C Castle (H. 

F t, Esq.), b • i e village of Killa- 
willin, where the Black water is again 
.'1 by a bridge. 
Passing Carrier House 'W.Franks, 
(j. , Bockfoj 'Sir J. Cotter , 
Ballygarrett (W. Cieagh, Esq.,, the 
travel. cr re-. . L7m. Mallow {Hotel: 
Que en ' s A n d s) . Bte . 25.] 

The first point between Fermoy 
and Mit< i is 3 m. Kilworth,a 

vil at the foot of the Kilworth 
Mountains, and equidistant from the 
of the Funshion and the 
Douglas, both tributaries of the Black- 
wa^ 

[Two excursions can be made fi 

I re: — 1. on the 1. to Gh rth, 

5 m., following the valley of the 

F i m si j i on , and pa b b i d g G J <■ ; d woo d, th e 

of Ballyhindon Castle, and 

gh House, the Elizabethan 

it of C ipt. B 

Glanworth - worth a visit, not only 

from its picturesque position, but on 

ant of the castle, formerly a resi- 

■ of the Boche family. The 

1st of a square keep and 

an addition of later date, in which 

urethe > apartments. They are 

defended by a quadrilateral curtain 

wall flanked by round 

A little to the N. of the village are 

the rem tins r ' the Dominican abb 

E. Eng. ch. founded in the 13th 

the H -. A tower ri 

from the jum of the nave and 

, resting on 4 graceful arches. 

am Glanworth the tourist mayre- 

rn direct to Fermoy 5 m., without 

.-• Kilworth. 
The 2nd e;: ion is through the 
romantic glen of the Araglin, a .stream 



which risea at the foot of the Knock- 

iledown hills, and falls into the 
Dongl me distance below Kil- 
worth. It is particularly picturesq 
tl Cooke, the residence of W. 

Cooke Coll is, Esq.] 
Adjoining Kilworth are Mary V 
L Corban, Esq.), Moore Park (Earl 
of Mountcashel), Bally 

Iiusbmount r A. Geran, Esq.). The 
road r. ' iscends, cro the Kil- 

worth hills at an elevation of 750 ft. 
On the 1., near the hig point, 

the solitary and n i tower of 
Caliordrirmey, 

47 m. Mitclielstown [Hotel; Kingston 
Arms] is a very neat, pretty little pi 

in an elevated valley between i 
Kilworth and Gt Lty Mountains, which 
rise innv. above the town in 

.splendid \ The great 

attraction is the castle, a fine mo- 
dern castellated building, and. the 
family seat of the Earls of King3town. 
Visitors are admitted on application 
to view the house and the \ Is, 

which are v^ry delightful, and whi 
from their elevation command exten- 
sive vie -vs. A castle was erected 
here by the White Knight, wbx 
heiress Margaret Fitzgerald married 
Sir William Fenton. Plis daughter 
again brought the property by mar- 
riage into the possession of Sir John 
King, cieated Baron Kh by 

Charles II. The present building 
was from designs by Mr. Pain, and 
cost 100,000/. ; the principal entrance 
being flanked by 2 square towers, one 
of which is called the White Kni 
Tower; the entrance hall is 80 ft. in 
length, and adorned with a fine 
groined roof. Indeed the whole ar- 
rangementB both Uy and in- 

ternally combine to make Mitch* 
town one of the finest residences in 
Ireland. 

dose to the pork is the town, in 
which the noticeable features ore a 
Perp. ch. with octagonal spire-, a hand- 
le Roman Catholic chapel, and 
Kingstown College, an asyl urn founded 



LAND. 



Route 30. — Limerick to Waterford, 



271 



T. rd Kingstown for decayed gen- 

s The Caves, 6 m.j Cahir, 
17 : F< rm< ■> ,10. 

id to Cahir lies at the 

of the Galty Mountains, which 

it on their southern face a 

v ry much fin r asp ci than on the 

ride. G Itymore, 3015ft., and 

I re the most lofty points of 

lifiecnt rai The Fun- 

1 a1 Kill): heny, and 

baun, no1 far from 

which point is a publi e, where 

the visitor to the caves should stop, 

ire gui I I change dr< - 

Mitchelstown 
< ise ilp y hap- 

' the Mitch 

ft . 

the road. A& 

with - of 

d the carboni- 

mtain lhii' . ami 

.••lit and 

they 

1 into the new and 

ing the one usu- 

•A narrow ]>.' of 

Jit and 33 in length, 

f about 30 - 

:. i< rmii in an 

. 15 ,; . in 

i which the visitor | - - 

A Ivi cine forward, 

1 angle 

i. which it mai 

l • 
ly hori ad 

ft, until the 
r jiii'l'Il- 
il. "t" \- . 

tude. In shape its 

i n.M-ml with 

bular m, 

• 

_<h 
middl 
hi c pari 



productions.' 1 — Apjohn. The stalac- 
tites and the stalagmites arc the prin- 
cipal beauties; and of these there are 
every variety, from the slender column 
of spar to broad sheets, like drapei 
so thin as to be transparent. The 
principal features are the Drum, 
the Pyramid, the Table, the River, 
the Organ, the Garrel Cave, the 
Bangstown Gallery, the Land Cave; 
all of which arc duly pointed out 
by the guides. The visitor cannot 
the whole series under k J or 3 
hours, and will have to undergo a 
considerable amount o\' rough walk- 
ing, squeezing, and slipping. The 
road to Cahir is very fine, being on 

» 

a descent, from which noble views 
arc gained of the valleys of the Suif 
and the parallel ranges of the Knock- 

iledowns. ( ta the slopes of tin 
latter hills is the village of Clogheen, 
on the read from Mitchelstown to 
A'diinan, and near il Shanbally 
I He, the s< at of Lord Lism< 

64 m. Cahir (Hotel: Glengall 
Aims). Rte. 30« 



lUTE .°A 



LIMERICK 



1 1 



WATERFORD. 



is route Ie performs d by I 
; ick and \J »rd Rly., an in - 

I 
nol principal 

southern but, until the con- 

Cork and 



272 



Route 30. — Limerick to Waterford. Ireland. 






Limerick Rly., was the only means 
of transit between the 2 latter places. 
Leaving the town by the joint station, 
the line gives olf the Foynes, Ennis, 
iii id Killaloe branches, and rnns 
S.W., passing through an open and 
picturesque country, affording fine 
distant views on the 1. of the Killaloe 
Hills, Mount Keeper, and the bills 
running up towards Nenagh. 

4 J m. Killonan Stat. ; and 8 m. 
Bolier : the latter being the station 
for Caherconlish, a little town about 
2 m. to rt. 

On 1. are the scanty ruins of 
Butler's Castle, formerly an old resi- 
dence of the Bourke family ; and on 
the slopes of the distant hills may be 
seen the woods of Glenstall, the 
beautiful seat of Sir M. Barrington. 

11 m. Dromkeen, between which 
and Pallas, 14 m. on rt., is Linfield 
House (Kev. M. Apjohn). 

Near Pallas, the Slievefelim moun- 
tains to the N. are conspicuous fea- 
tures, occupying an area E. and W. 
between Thurles and Limerick. 
Slieve Callan, the highest point, is 
1523 ft. ; Mauherslieve, or Mother 
Mountain, 1783 ; and the geological 
composition of the range is for the 
most part Lower Silurian, though 
" the outer slopes of the mountains, 
and some of the lesser elevations 
overlooking the low country, are 
formed of old red sandstone, which 
rests uncomformably upon the Silu- 
rian; and where the slope of the 
ground is gentle, frequently runs up- 
wards over the lower rock to eleva- 
tions of 1200 and' even 1400 ft."— 
Geol. Survey. 

In the neighbourhood of Pallas, 
carboniferous limestone is the pre- 
vailing stratum, although there are 
numerous instances of trap rock ; and 
in a wood close to Linfield House 
a fine facade of basaltic columns may 
be seen. 

3 m. 1. of Pallas is Castlegard. 

18 m. Oola Stat. On a hill on 1. 
is Oola Castle, one of those square 
fortified mansions erected by English 



settlers, probably in the time of 
Elizabeth. It was destroyed by Gen. 
Sarsfield, who surprised it by a night 
attack, and blew it up, together 
with, a quantity of ammunition 
brought hither by William III. On 
rt. of line is Castle Lloyd (H. Lloyd, 
Esq.), and, 2 m. distant, Derk (H. 
Considine, Esq.). 

22 m. Limerick Junction (Rte. 25), 
where passengers bound for Dublin 
and Cork diverge N. and S. Not 
far from the station is Bally kisteen, 
the Irish residence of Lord Stanley. 

The traveller is now in Tipperary, 
and soon approaches, 5 m., the 
capital of a county as fertile and 
prolific as any kingdom might wish 
to possess, though, alas ! to a great 
extent vitiated by the agrarian 
acts for which Tipperary has be- 
come so infamous in the social 
history of Ireland, a notoriety un- 
fortunately not limited to this county 
only. Indeed there can be no greater 
proof of the richness and consequent 
value of land in this district than the 
fact that it fetches a higher price in 
the market than any lands in the 
neighbouring counties, notwithstand- 
ing the insecurity of life that so 
often threatens the resident land- 
lord. Although a modern built 
town (Hotel: Dobbyns), Tipperary 
(Tiprarae, " the well of the plains ") 
dates from the time of King John, 
who built a castle here. Henry 
III. also founded a monastery for 
Augustinians ; and it is to be pre- 
sumed that society in those days was 
better ordered, as we find a grant 
made by Edward II. to the ' ; bailiffs 
and good men of Tipperary of murage 
for 3 years/' An arched gateway is 
all that is left of the abbey, and is, 
indeed, the only remains of antiquity 
in the town. 

It is pleasantly buift and laid out, 
and the situation at the foot of the 
glorious Galty range is very charm- 
ing. In the near vicinity of the 
town are Sadlier's Wells, Eoesboro', 






IEKLAND. BofUe 30. — Gcilty Mountain* — Calm-. 



'27:) 



enane R. Mansergh, Esq.), and 
i W. Sadleir, Esq.). 

( >• .- — Kail to Limerick 

ami Waterfbrd; car daily to Lime- 
rick. 

Digfa\ . .< : — limerick, 25 m. ; 
Waterford, 52; Limerick Junction, 
her, Ml: Cashel, 12; Gal- 
1 Kill x Athassel, 9. [The ruins 

of Athassel ana Ath-an-tuisil) are 
nifnUy placed about IV m. below 
the village of the same name, on the 
hank><>f the Snir. which here assumes 
rtions of a considerable 
stream. 
The road from Tipperary turns off 
the d< dk - >f Thomasto^ d 
sidence of Viscount 
I • ad fonn( rly of the Karl of 

i idaff. I A I 3 ofAthassel was 
founded al the clo* be L2tb cent. 

Will. Burke, or I N Burgo, and was 
a I ad magnificent E. Eng. 

buildi] r, which overlooks 

! 1 ft in Length, and 
ted by a - of lancet windows, 

j - r should notice in particu- 

.1. . j'ly-: 1 and rounded 

which is a blocked 
rch, with delical ifts, 

the wl I by a trian- 

gular or straight-sided pointed arch. 
In the in'- rior an' the tomb and 
founder, who died within 
the walls.] 

B nsha Stat. On rt are 

tie <>. Ryan, 

I ..n 1. I . smacori . t i 

Baker, 1 I wing the 

Ah. rl 1. Kilmoyler 

e line enfc rs 
odly Sim 
• which it completes the 
thejourn( wL 

lint we a] proach very i 
of the Gulty Mounto 
\ low valley joins that 
- ;r. 

1 . impel op 

which be 

I Dip] Kil- 

rrery, and II 



town ; although the western por- 
tion, known as the Ballyhoura hills, 
overlooking Buttevant, arc somewhat 

divided from the main group by a 

depression between Mitchelstown 
and Galbally. Here the Aherlow 
rises, taking a northerly course as 
far as the last-named town, and 
then turning to the W, The true 
Galty range is not only lofty, hut 
peculiarly conspicuous and pictu- 
re sque from its sudden elevation 
from the plains of Tipperary, and 
for the hold escarpments and preci- 
pitous gullies on every side, hut more 
particularly on the S., which faces 
the Knockmeiledown Mountains, 
and overlooks Mitchelstown. The 
summit of Galtymore, 3015 ft., is 
plainly visible from any of the 
Killarney hills, and is one of the 
3 highest points in the S. of Ire- 
land. The whole of the Galty 
range is composed of old red sand- 

>ne, which rises up from under the 
limestone Of Mitchelstown Valley. 
Here old red beds rest on Lower 
Silurian rocks, as may be seen on 
the S. side of the range, in the re- 
markable excavation, Pigeon Rock 
Glen, "where, at the upper end of 
the Goolatinny stream, the Lower 
Silurian in the bed of the rock for 
about J m. is coven d on either 
side by bed- of old red, that 
appear one above another in the 
sidi glen, uniting above in 

consequence of the rise of ground, 
and below in consequence of their 
own dip becoming gr< ater than that 
of the slope of the hill." — Geological 
v / ■/•• //• The b >tanist will find on 
I I Jtymore < Sar< x rigida, Saxifrag 
hirta, and Ranunculus hirsutus. 

The rly, now turns to the 8. to 
m. Cahir Hotel: Gleng 
Arm- , :i thriving town c 

Inlmb.. iii the midst of chi rm- 

i ry an 1 well-kept « Btafc s. 

i situation in a rich corn 

ontry, Cahir is b I plac 

ll-air-iuilb, an hum. A of wlc t 

onually sent to Waterfbrd* 

a 3 



274 



Haute 30. — Limerick to Water ford. 



Ireland. 



The principal object of interest in the 
town, which, by the way, is unusually 
clean and well kept, is the Castle, 
which stands on an island in the 
Suir. Although modernised to a great 
extent, it was originally built in 
1142, by Connor, King of Thomond. 
Notwithstanding its age, there is but 
little history attached to it, except 
that it underwent a short siege by 
Lord Inchiquin, and 2 or 3 years 
later by Cromwell. 

" It is of considerable extent, but 
irregular outline, consequent upon 
its adaptation to the form and broken 
surface of its insular site, and con- 
sists of a great square keep, sur- 
rounded by extensive outworks, 
formins: an outer and inner vallum, 
with a small courtyard between the 
two, these outworks being flanked 
by 7 towers, 4 of which are circular, 
and 3 of larger size square. The 
ancient and proper name of the town 
is Cahir-duna-iaseaigh, or the * cir- 
cular stone fortress of the fish- 
abounding dun or' fort,' a name 
which appears to be tautological, 
and which can only be accounted 
for by the supposition that an earthen 
dun or fort had originally occupied 
the site on which a cahir or stone 
fort was erected subsequently. 
Examples of names formed in this 
Way, of words having nearly synony- 
mous meanings, are very numerous 
iu Ireland, as Caislean-dun-more, the 
castle of the great fort, and as the 
Irish name of Cahir Castle itself, 
which, after the erection of the pre- 

ut building, w T as called Caislean- 
na-caherach-duna-iasCaigh, an appel- 
lation in which 3 distinct Irish names 
for military works of different classes 
and ages are combined." — Fenny 
Journ. 

At present this castle, which, for- 
tunately for English tongues, has 
not kept its Irish name, is used as a 
depot for the Tipperary militia. 

The tourist should visit the de- 
mesne of Cahir House, which 
stretches for about 2 m. alongside of 



the Suir, and is one of the best laid- 
out and most beautiful estates in the 
county. " The Cottage" is a favourite 
resort for its picturesque and secluded 
locality. This fine estate was long 
the property of the Earls of Glengall, 
but was unfortunately brought into 
the Encumbered Estate Court, and 
changed hands like many another 
noble Irish property. In the neigh- 
bourhood of Cahir are also Cahir 
Abbey (K. Grubb, Esq.), Lough- 
lohery (W. Quin, Esq.), Ballydavid 
(G. Baker, Esq.), and Eochestown 
(S. Barton, Esq.). 

Conveyances. — Rail to Limerick 
and Waterford ; car to Cappoquin. 

Distances. — Waterford, 39 m. ; 
Clonmel, 11 ; Tipperary, 14 J ; 
Mitchelstown, 18; the Caves, 7; 
Ardfmane, 5 ; Cashel, 11. 

[Mitchelstown caves may be visited 
from here (Rte. 29), as well as Ard- 
finane, "the hill of St. Finian," 
the leper, who founded here a mo- 
nastery in the 7th cent. The in- 
terest of Ardfmane, however, is due 
not to this, but to a castle built by 
King John when Earl of Morton. It 
is a large, rambling ruin, of quad- 
rangular shape, and flanked by square 
towers at the corners, two of which 
are in very good preservation. Its 
position on a steep, precipitous rock 
overlooking the Suir, and with a 
background of the distant ranges 
of the Galty and Knockmeiledown 
Hills, has a fine effect. The castle 
is said to have been granted after its 
erection to the Knights Templars, and 
was considered one of the strongest 
Irish fortresses until its destruction 
by Cromwell, who planted his cannon 
on the opposite hill. The Suir is 
crossed by a remarkably ]ong bridge 
of 14 arches, carrying the road from 
Clonmel to Cork. The tourist may, 
instead of returning to Cahir, proceed 
at once to Clonmel, 8 m.] From 
Cahir the rly. takes another sweep 
to the S., and passing 1. Lough- 
lohery House, and Woodruff House 



; 1.AN1'. 



B utc 30. — CUmmd. 



275 



(W ry, Eaq.)i gradually reap- 
• valley of the Suir. 
I m. < 'bmmd Eotd: Hearne*s, 
: CantwelTs] is decidedly 
leanest and mosl business-like 
inland town in the S, of Ireland, 
1 is, in' re >ver, graced with ex- 
tremely pretty outskirts, diversified 
with wood and water. The exporta- 
.raiii is the principal busin< 
, at dill' rent times * 
id made to establish cotton 
Qen manufactures — the latter 
a L667, when 50 i Wal- 
broughl over Brom Canter- 
]„ | Ormonde, the 

afa nant C nmel was 
. m.I brav* ly i rted a 
hands of Cromwell, 
ii was cv 
M. The - 
walls surround the 
jthened 
I 
one left out of the four, 
_ d repair, and 
of the main 
a is an interesting ch., 
1 [s o^ lowed bya thick grove 

. ; r with >M 

u additional ap- 
. The church itself; 
.! modera- 
te 
N.E. c 

rom 8 

■ • 

•ii i. - 

of nave an 1 

i « xternally 
I E window i 

I with 

l re n; 

- \ in the 

i in ill- W. i 

I rapid 

I I 

n>t v, in tl 

.i of the n\> r. 



From the abundant supply of water- 
power, there are numbers of flour-mills 
and warehouses, the contents of which 
are sent down by barges to Carrick 
and Waterford. The valleyofthe Suir 
at this spol is very beautiful, Clonmel 
being sheltere I on the S. by theCom- 
meragh mountains, which separate it 
from the vale of the Nier, and merge 
into the broad and lofty group that 
runs towards Dungarvan. To the N.W. 
ef the town is Slieve-na-man, a conical 
and rather isolated hill, 2362 ft. in 
height. The immediate outskirts 
end banks are wooded and pretty, 
affording very pleasant walks,— ; 
.e Wilderness, which, for solemn 
iom and wild grandeur, might con- 
vey no inadequate idea of that in 
which the Baptist preached ; the 
road of Heywood, a charming sylvan 
walk: the Green, commanding a de- 
lightful prospect of the river; and 
iry Hill road, the fashionable pro- 
oade." — Hall. The latter is situ- 
1 on the rt. bank of the river, 
about j m. below the town. There 
. an unusual number of hand- 
e >me residences in the neighbour- 
id. To the W., proceeding up the 
valley of the Suir. are Marlfield ;J. 
B gwi 11, Esq . M.P. . the grounds of 
which \' ry picturesque ; Oak- 

lau - « it Phipps : Coole; Knock- 
y. the si at of the Earl of Donagh- 

](•: and Kilniaiuhan Oastle (T. 

ii. Esq. To the \. are 11 
I J. Mulcahy, Esq. ; Glen- 
oner P. Gough, Esq , On the 
, :■ ( Jarri k side, Powerstown (». 

. . : : I i Ann. r Rev. 

i id. ville : Newtown Annex 
l;. Osborni . Esq., M.P.). 

T tourist, wh«. is now enable 1 to 
visit almost i w ry part of Ireland byrail 
or car with such comfort and Bpe: d, 
should nol E rg< I I ( tm< 1 i 

-jM.int of the first public 
I . by Mr. B '. i f 

1 , n-ti. Id, in L815. H ' in 

hum! ; > 1 •» is imp 

ail in too high I oi 

hie of 



276 



Route 30. — Limerick to Waterford. Ireland. 






the debt of gratitude which Ireland 
owes him. (Introd., p. xliv.) 

Convenances. — Rail to Waterford 
and Limerick; car daily to Dun- 
garvan ; daily to Fethard, to Goold's 
>ss, to Tlinrles. 

Distances. — Fethard, 8| m. ; Ard- 
fmane, 8; Cahir, 11; Cashel, 14; 
Knocklofty, 5 ; Gurteen, 5 J ; Carrick, 
14 ; Dungarvan, 25. 

[It is a pretty drive to the curious 
old town of Fethard, which still pre- 
serves a good portion of its walls and 
gateways, and an Early Dec. ch., with 
a fine tower and E. window. 

The importance of Fethard (anc. 
Frodh-ard) may be gathered from the 
fact of its being governed " by a sove- 
reign, 12 chief burgesses, portreeve, 
and an indefinite number of freemen, 
assisted by a recorder, town-clerk, ser- 
jeant-at-ma ce, and other officers. ' ' The 
road from Clomnel crosses the river 
Moyle or Moile. and passes Lakefield, 
the residence of W. Pennefather, 
Esq. If the tourist has time he 
should return by another road along 
the banks of the Clashanly, which 
are ornamented with the woods of 
Grove House (T. Barton, Esq.) and 
Kiltinan Castle (R. Cooke, Esq.), very 
finely placed on a precipitous rock 
overlooking the river. Opposite is' the 
huge mass of Slieve-na-man, or, more 
pro] )erly Sliebh-na-mhan-Fionn-na- 
Heirin, " the mountain of the fan- 
women of Ireland," on the summit 
of which Fin Ma'cCoul, wishing to 
take a wife, and puzzled as to his 
choice, seated himself, while all who 
chose ran a race from the bottom to 
the top, the winner to secure the 
honour of his hand — an honour ob- 
tained by Graine, daughter of Cor- 
mac, King of Ireland, who proved 
herself not only the fleetest but the 
longest-winded. 

sheve-na-man is also celebrated by 
Ossian as the hunting-ground of the 
Finian chiefs : — 



" One day Fin and Oscar 
Followed the chase in Sliehh-na-mhan-Fionn 
With three thousand Fenian chiefs, 
Ere the sun looked out from his circle." 

Geologically speaking, this block 
of mountain consists of old red sand- 
stone, although on its eastern slope 
some clay-slates appear (associated 
with some igneous rocks), believed to 
be of Lower Silurian era. At its N.E. 
termination is the village of Nine 
Mile House, and a little bevond it 
Killamery, where, in a quarry 300 
yards from the ch., the fossil-collector 
may find Cyclopteris Hibernia.] 

From Clonmel the line runs still 
E., nearly following the course of the 
Suir, and the very picturesque valley 
formed on the N. by Slieve-na-man 
and on the S. by the wooded outliers 
of the Coram eragh mountains, which 
descend almost to the banks of the 
stream. 

6 m. rt., near the village of Kils- 
heela, is Gurteen, the beautiful seat 
of J. Power, Esq. The woods here 
are very extensive, and numerous 
little ravines and dells, each with its 
characteristic rivulet, are continually 
opening up charming bits of land- 
scape. A considerable slate -quarry 
has been worked at Glen Patrick. 

58 m. Ballydine (Capt. Power), 
and further on Coolnamuck (J. Sad- 
leir, Esq.), remarkable for the growth 
of native wood in the grounds. At 
this point the Suir becomes tidal, 
and enters 

63 m. Carrick {Hotel : Besborough 
Arms), a small, straggling town, 
which, apart from the beauty of 
its situation, need not detain the 
tourist. The only object of interest 
is the castle of the Butlers on the 
rt. or Waterford side of the river, 
which is crossed by a long bridge 
connecting Waterford with Tippe- 
rary ; a small portion of the town 
is also in Kilkenny. As at Clonmel, 
the Suir divides and becomes of con- 
siderable breadth, being navigable 
for barges of large tonnage. In 
the neighbourhood of the town are 



fRELAND. 



Route Sl.—MaUow to Twice. 



■277 



Tinvane and Mount Richard, and 
h< \. the demesne of Cr< 

(T. Lawl< r, Esq.). 

Prom Carrick the valley of the 
imea broader and more open, 
th< < ugh Mountains, which 

Long bounded the landscape 
• g.j JHng back towards Dun- 
d. On 1 . at Piltown, are the 
of Belline, and B( 9borough 
II ill,' latter the residence of 

tii, l" rl of B -1' >rough, and ttie 
former of his at. At 67 m. Fid- 
>wn the Suir is crossed by a re- 
ly long bridge, resting side- 
s nd in tlic middle 
•ii. Thh a the only 
m f connection between the rly. 

A 

m. to the B., a busy 

lit- turing town, where the 

M .: »li b ds, thi merchant-princes 

rford, have a Large factory, 

ploying 1000 hands. Otoseto the 

viT ia the residence of W. Mal- 

ind about H m. to 

irrasrhmorej the Beat of the 

Marquis Waterford. It is more 

nt. and is re- 
he 1' auty of the 
id timber, in which the 
re pre-eminent The 
accn»-n* Suir near Fiddown is 

•'ill. e banks bo a 
and are finely 
a; • | Bolton, on the 
! .in li. nee tli 
wortl " the re- 

\- Dunhitt 

Bl : i 

form* -1 with the Kilter 
ly after which i ich 

W Adelphi, 

I nn- 



ROUTE 31. 

PROM MALLOW TO KILLARNEY AND 
TRALEE. 

Tlio opening of the Croat Southern 
and Western branch from Mallow wi 
; , real boon to the tourist, whom a run 
of 2J hours places at once in the 
heart of the mosi lovely and far- 
famed scenery in Ireland, the lakes 
and mountains of Killarney. 

For a groat portion of the dis- 
tance the line passes through an 
uninviting conn try, in which ox- 
tensive stony uplands, watered by 
broad open streams, are the general 
features, occasionally diversified by 
wooded slopes and ravines. But as 
m as the distant outlines of the 
Killarney Hills break upon the eye, 
all else Lb forgotten in watching the 
fantastic outlines and purple hu< a of 
these magnificenl rangi 

(Y the clear stream of 

B | ter we I the main line 
follow up its picturesque vall< y 
for d mil< 

.\- l in. the little river Clyda is 
9g< d, having on 1. of rly, Dro- 
mon House A. \' wman, Esq.). and 
,,ii rt. Clyda, Woodfori V Ware, 
i . and Dromaneen, the groui 
of tl;. irtmg tin- ban] 

i; | ■. r . I to the oppoi 
.f the river are Summervill li. 
i: ■ | |.) and Longu< ville B. 
I fteid, l . both occupying com- 
tuatioi 
!. ifl the prettily wooded knell 

of ( . i J lill, crowned with a 



278 



Route 31. — Mallow to Tralee. 



Ireland. 






turret, which is said to have been 
erected by a former proprietor of 
AVoodfort to protect his estate. 

At the further end of the demesne 
of Dromaneen is the old castle rising 
from a steep escarped rock overhang- 
ing the Blackwater, with its square 
mullioned windows and gable ends. 
The ruins are less those of a 
castle than of a fortified house of 
the date of Elizabeth or James I., 
about whose time Dromaneen be- 
longed to the family of the O'Calla- 
ghans. 

7 m. 1. Mount Hillary (1287) is 
an outlying portion of the Bochra 
Mountains, a dreary and unculti- 
vated range intervening between the 
valley of the Blackwater and that of 
the Lee near Macroom. The road 
from Kanturk to Cork crosses them 
at a height of about 1000 ft. Near 
the junction of the Glen Kiver with 
the Blackwater is, 9 J m., Kanturk 
Stat., distant 3J m. rt. from 

Kcmturk (Inn : Tierney Arms), a 
pretty little town, situated on the 
?3anks of 2 streams, the Duallua and 
the Allua, each of which is crossed by 
bridges of 5 or 6 arches. The former 
river give3 name to the barony of 
Duhallow. Kanturk became a place 
of some importance in the days of 
Elizabeth, owing to the building, by 
MacDonagh Carthy, of an immense 
castle (still called McDonagh's Folly), 
of such proportions and vast strength, 
that the jealousy of the English 
Government was roused and a veto 
placed on any farther proceedings. "It 
occupies the 4 sides of a quadrangle 
120 ft. in length by 80 ft. in breadth, 
being 3 st )ries high, and flanked at 
each angle by a square tower of 4 
stories, having 3 windows in each 
story in the central portion ; the 
groins, mouldings, beltings, and other 
ornamental parts, are of hewn stone. 
The battlements, if ever carried up, 
have fallen down, and the additional 
story mentioned by Smith in his 
'History of Cork' is only apparent 
on one side, where it forms the under- 



ground or cellar floor." — Lewis. The 
castle stands about J m. to the S. of 
the town. 

The R. C. Chapel in the town is 
worth visiting for its entrance gate- 
way and font, both the work of a 
native artist. 

[5 h. ni. to E. of Kanturk, passing 
on the way Rathmaher, Assolas, and 
Bally giblin (Sir H. Becher, Bart.), are 
the village of Cecilstown, and Lohort 
C istle (Earl of Egmont), a fine baro- 
nial residence, approached by a long 
straight avenue. 

Near Newmarket, which lies to N. 
Kanturk, are Newmarket House (R. 
Aid worth, Esq.), and the Priory, 
once the residence of John Philpot 
Curran, whose convivial proceedings 
with the chosen wits and talent of 
that day have been described by 
Lever under the designation of ' The 
Monks of the Screw.' 

Newmarket is placed at the foot 
of a very dreary and barren 
range of hills which, with but few 
breaks, may be said to extend north- 
wards to the banks of the Shannon, 
and westwards to the coast. From 
Charleville to Listowell, and from 
Newmarket to Tralee, the whole 
district is occupied by this wild and 
bleak region, each range taking a 
different name. Those near New- 
market are the Use Mountains, while 
to the N.W. they are called Mul- 
laghareirk, and still westward the 
Clanruddery and Flesk Mountains. 
Woe betide the pedestrian who gets 
benighted here, " for there is not, 
between Mr, Aid worth's seat at New- 
market and the Knight of Glin's on 
the banks of the Shannon, a distance 
of 34 m., a single house worthy of the 
name of a gentleman's residence." — ■ 
Fraser."] 

Close to Kanturk Stat, is the 
village of Banteer, and 1} m. to E. 
Clonmeen, a residence of the OCal- 
laghans. 

Still following the Blackwater, and 
leaving on rt. Rosnalee (W. Leader, 
Esq.), Dromagh Castle (N. Leader, 



Ireland. 



7? ute 31, — MiUstreet — KiUamey, 



070 



Esq.\ Keale, Rathroe R M'Carthy, 

. and Fiintfield, we arrive at 

m. Millstn ;. A little before 

at the stat. on 1.. on the 

f the river Finnow, is Drt- 

< t the residence of Col, 

Wallis ,acs stellated building flanked 

i:. 1 tower at each end and 

I with the old fortn ss, 

the i. 1 tower of which ri- 

m ] ortion. Drishane 

- built by Dermol McCarthy in 

: attractive point ab >ui 

t // '< I : Wallis Arms is 
in an open wooded 
Finnow, surrounded 
. which at Cahirbarnagh 
lain a heighl of 2239 ft 
e advano 'I out- 
Killarney group, that 
en Looming 
ery of Mill- 
need by tl. 

1 McCarthy O'Leary, 

mnt Leader, the P 
! ider family, at the 

mtains, on the roa 1 
Millstreel to Ma . are the 

I . which com- 

bo the va] 
i After 

... where 
im is c jed 
i ff to the 

ill 
. 

;ill 

Pape 

approach to 

in the kingdom. 

i ' 

emini 

1 M 

- of 

I 

id vail 



which spread over a large ana, and 
in fad extend with more or less in- 
terruption all the distance to GrOU- 
gane Barra and the source of the 1 << e, 

33 m. Headfort Stat., passing 
which the line runs parallel with the 
Flesk River, thai Leaps from rock to 
rock with impetuous torrent. A very 
fine mountain road runs S. from 
Headfori to Macroom. 

Soon a sudden turn of the valley 
brings nsin sight of Eflesk Castle, the 
.-cat of D. Colt-man, Esq., crowning 
a wooded knoll, round the base of 
which sweeps the river. It com- 
mands one of the mosl enchant ing 
views over iIm' Lake and mountains 
thai it is possible to conceive. 

II in. /\/7A//"/// //Stal. Here the train, 
though by no mean- near its journey's 
end, usually disembogues 9-lOths of 
its passengers, the greater part of 
them eager for the Lake beauties 
which nature has scattered so pro- 
digally over this favoured region : a 
region so charming, that no amount 
of journeying to reach it can be con- 
sidered too great or too wearison 
The Killarney district is well sup- 
plied with hotel accommodation, and 
amongsl the 3 or 4 principal esta- 
blishments the visitor will scarcely 
wrong whicl 1 \ t he ch 
Railway is a magnificent and 
- house adjoining the stat., 
l>ut this, though eonvenienl in some 

lias, to the generality of 
visitors, the disadvanl of bei 
nearly a mile from the Lake, the view 
which is ah- ntirely cut off by 

the v. of Lord Kenmare's de- 

m< sne. N< xt in rank is the Royal 
Victoi el, aboul 1 j m. from 1 1 

m, and situated in it- own grounds 
down 1" the N. shore of the 
1 ..■ : : : fmmodation here is firs - 

in ev< ; ad the situation 

whole of the 1 iow< r 
ke, and 1 ilendid 1 
in- is from M mg< rton b 1 1 

R< ■ ]-- is superb : m< i ; '. it is the 
mi tril : i the 

bour- 



280 



'Route 31. — Mallow to Tralee. 



Ireland. 



hood. The Lake Hotel is also 
excellent, overlooking the eastern 
bunk or Castle-Lough Bay, and also 
I2 m. from the town on the Kemnare 
road. There are also 2 good hotels, 
Sullivan's and the Mucross, 3 m. S. 
of Ki Harney at Mucross. It will be 
advisable for the tourist to locate him- 
self outside the town for one reason, 
and that is, to avoid the beggars. All 
Irish towns are pestered with beggars 
to a degree that is disgraceful to the 
local authorities ; but the nuisance is 
felt w T ith tenfold force in Killarney, 
which seems to be the head-quarters 
of everything that is bold and re- 
pulsive in Irish mendicancy. No 
sooner does the visitor put foot out- 
side the hotel or station precincts than 
he is driven wild by touters, guides, and 
hordes of beggars, and should he be 
weak enough to stop and listen to any 
one of them, he need not expect to be 
left alone any more while he is in the 
town. Indeed, with the exception of a 
few shops containing local curiosities, 
such as ornaments made out of arbu- 
tus trees and such like, there is very 
little to detain him ; for, notwithstand- 
ing the enormous number of visitors 
who annually resort here, it has a 
wretched decayed look about it, with 
scarcely a single good street. " Along 
the 3 main streets are numerous 
arches, down every one of which runs 
an alley, intersected by other alleys, 
and swarming with people. A stream 
or gutter runs commonly down these 
alleys, in which the pigs and children 
are seen paddling about, while the 
men and women loll at their doors 
or windows to enjoy the detestable 
prospect." — Thackeray. It must be 
allowed, however, that since the 
author of the ' Irish Sketch-Book ' 
] hissed through Killarney, it has con- 
siderably improved in cleanliness. 
The only building in Killarney worth 
inspection is the K. C. Cathedral, a 
very elaborate Gothic building after 
the design of Pugin. It contains some 
beautiful interior decorations by Mr. 
M'Carthy. 



Before describing the scenery of this 
neighbourhood, it is as well to touch 
upon the guides, a necessary con- 
comitant to every tourist according 
to the notions of the hotel-keepers 
and the natives themselves. As most 
visitors are tied to time and are 
anxious to see as much of the district 
as they can, a guide cannot well be 
dispensed with, and even should the 
visitor wish to do so, it is not easy to 
make the guide dispense with the 
visitor. At every corner and every 
point a new cicerone starts up, and 
so beleaguers the unfortunate pedes- 
trian, that he wishes he had taken 
one at first, if only to keep off the 
others. In justice to the guides, it 
is but fair to add that they are ge- 
nerally intelligent, good-humoured, 
always talkative, ready to protect 
their charge from being bothered by 
others, and useful in carrying any 
overcoats or superfluities. If the vi- 
sitor is staying at an hotel, he should 
consult the landlord, who will pro- 
vide him with an accredited guide at 
a fixed tariff; but if he takes one of 
the irregular guides, he should take 
care to make his bargain with him 
before starting. The hotels also pro- 
vide ponies and boats for lake ex- 
cursions at a fixed price, which the 
visitor can see before starting, and 
thus calculate beforehand the ex- 
pense of his excursions. He should 
also take the precaution to have plenty 
of small change about him, for, putting 
aside the beggars, to give to whom 
were as unpardonable and unneces- 
sary as to cast pearls before swine, he 
will find that the Killarney natives 
are wonderfully ingenious in extract- 
ing small sums — from the generously 
inclined, because they urge such good 
reasons for charity — from the closely 
inclined, to get rid of their impor- 
tunities. First there is the purveyor 
of box-wood, arbutus-wood, and bog- 
oak ornaments, who lies in wait along 
the frequented roads, and offers 
for sale pretty knicknacks at only 
double their value. 2ndly there is 



i.wn. 



Route 31. — Killarney, 



281 



the peculiar tribe of mountain-dew 

women, who, when you leasl expect 

interruption, whetheral the tops of the 

nntains, or in the wildest glens, 

How in droves of half a do/en at a 

rrying with them small jars 

milk and a bottle of whisky, 

recommended by them as a 

iins1 mountain air. From 

im r the visitor sips, but, 

- heart failing at the sight of so 

ny others, he is glad to compound 

Uling or two of 
all chan Associated with this 
idle fellows with a cracked 
bugle or an old cannon, or failing that 
rty, with their own 
ii \\ ith \n bich to awake 
- for " his i [ann< r, worthy 
Many of tl 
1 hat ii are very amusing 

. hut they become a despe- 
rate nuis from halt" a dozen 

tpanyj 
i the whole length of your walk". 
bakh g off from th _ tndeur and 
iity of the scenery by their 
d (1. :> rmination to make 
!' is really a 
on which the lords of the 
n<»r would do well to entertain, 
the propriety of keeping th< 
in due bounds, and thus pre- 
ritora Leaving Kil- 
full det rmination never 
to < in. 

W r may 

. it will add v« iv 

• he thorougl 
aphy oi the 
Qcing 

a>. 
i I K '" may be 

sin at the 

h ran. 

Mill street it 

will I 

runnii y E. and \\ . 

« lirbaniftgli j». 

:. !<• i • P pS, 'I 
1 vail- i '!• 8k, 



causing a deflection of the range b 
little to the S.W. in Croghane and 
Mangerton. At this latter, or more 
correctly at the Tore Mountain, which 

may he said to belong to it, the 
easterly group of Killarney comes to 
an vnd, being divided from the 
western group by what is called 
the Middle Lakes. The westerly 
group rises precipitously from the 
opposite side of this narrow strip of 
water, and runs for many miles 
nearly due E. and W., forming the 
finest and most lofty mountains in 
the kingdom. The mass immediately 
overhanging Killarney are called 
the Tomies and the Purple Moun- 
tain. These are ima-inarily se- 
parated on the W. by the Gap of 
Dunloe from the Alpine chain of 
McGillicuddy's Reeks, commonly 
known as the Reeks, the centre 
of which is Carrantuohill shoot- 
ing upwards to the height of 
3414 ft. These 2 groups "of the 
Reeks and Mangerton are those 
with which, broadly speaking, the 
Killarmy tourist has to do at pre- 
sent; but it must not be imagined 
that they are isolated or detached 
chains 01 mountains; for on the con- 
trary, they extend on the W. as far 
as thi -coast, and similarly to 
ELenmare on the S. 
In a basin then between th< 
lupe Lies the Lake of Killarney, 
the first and by far the largesl portion 
bounded on the W. by the Toomii - 
and the Glena or PurpL Mountain ; 
on the s. by Tore Mountain, on 
the N. by gently swelling hills, of no 
hi i Jit between !<><» and 500 
ft. . and on the E. by the undulating 
and wooded slopes thai fringe the 
bai Aangerton. Like m<>~t high- 
land lakes, the chi« andeur ol 
Killarney is al ii d; for jusl al 
paration betwi en T< *re 
and (he ( H( n;t Mountain run- a 
narrow prolongation, a river in feu it, 
called the Lon B nge, which, glid- 
ing round the Eagl< 's^ -\ « xpanda 
i I I. .■ ( embedded in t ; 



282 



Route 31. — Mallow to Tralee. 



Ireland. 



very heart of the mountains. This 
portion is fed by a stream which 
rises from the Dark Valley, or Cum- 
meenduff, one of the most sublime 
glens skirting the southern base of 
the Keeks, and dividing them from 
the remainder of the Kenmare 
group. 

If the tourist will study these 
broad outlines and take the following 
objects of bearing, viz. the Victoria 
Hotel for the N., Tore Mountain for 
the S., the Tomies to the W., and 
the Lake Hotel, or Koss Castle, to 
the E., he will not be so liable to be 
puzzled, when he gets on to the Lake, 
as to his whereabouts. 

The Lower Lake, otherwise called 
Lough Leane, comprises 5000 acres of 
surface, and is 5 m. in length to 2 J in 
average breadth. Its longest axis is 
from S.E. to N.W., which portion is 
the broadest as well as the most 
free from islands. The number of 
islands is one of the most charac- 
teristic features of the Lower Lake, 
there being upwards of 30, embracing 
a total area of 52 acres, varying 
in size from 21 acres (Innisfallen 
Island; to a mere rock of 9 perches. 

In addition to these islands, the 
greater number of which are con- 
gregated on the eastern side of the 
Lake, there is also the peninsula of 
Boss, generally called Koss Island, 
jutting out from the E. bank between 
Kenmare grounds and the mouth of 
the Flesk. The bay between Koss 
Island and Muekross is called Castle- 
lough. The Upper Lake is on the 
same level with and separated from 
the Middle or Muekross Lake by a 
narrow peninsula extending from the 
mainland at Muekross nearly across 
to Dinish Island on the extreme S.W. 
side, the connection between this 
latter island and Muekross being 
maintained by Brickeen Bridge, so 
that the waters of the 2 lakes are 
only connected at Brickeen, and that 
portion of the Long Reach which 
winds round Dinish, called the 
Meeting of the "Waters. 



The islands in Middle Lake, there- 
fore, are 4, of which Brickeen and 
Dinish Island are 19 and 34 acres 
respectively. 

From the S.W. corner of the 
Lower Lake, joining this narrow 
outlet at Dinish with the Middle 
Lake, there is a tortuous stream, 
known as the Long Kange, of about 
2 J m. in length, which connects both 
Lower and Middle with the Upper 
Lake, the most beautiful, though the 
smallest, of all. It is 5 ft. higher 
in level than the others, about 2J m. 
in length, f- in breadth, with a 
surface of 430 acres, and contains 8 
islands of 6 acres altogether. It is 
nearly separated from the rest of the 
Lake by the Purple Mountain, which 
projects between the two, the Upper 
Lake thus occupying a basin at the 
foot of the CummeendufT, or Black 
Valley. It is fed by the Cummeen- 
dutT Kiver, by the Owenreagh, 
a stream that flows into the same 
glen from the S.W., and also by a 
small stream from the S. flowing 
past the Police Barracks, and form- 
ing the Derrycunihy cascades. The 
Middle Lake receives the waters of the 
Mangerton group, flowing in at the 
OwengarritY Kiver, while the Lower 
Lake is supplied by the small Muek- 
ross Kiver, the Flesk running in on 
the E. shore, and the Deenagh close 
to Killarney town. There are also 2 
or 3 little mountain streams on the 
W. shore. 

It will thus be seen that the lakes 
form a great reservoir for the waters 
of this important group of moun- 
tains, discharging them into the 
Atlantic by the river Laune, which 
emerging from the N.W. of the 
Lower Lake finally empties itself 
into the sea at Castlemaine. 

The next point which the tourist 
will have to settle will depend 
on the time which he has to spare 
for seeing Killarney, which will 
of course be influenced by many 
circumstances, such as weather, or 
the visitor's capability of fatigue, &c. 



Ireland. 



Route 31. — Aghadoe. 



283 



ould only one day be available, a 

nl deal may be seen in thai one 

: although only in the m< 

manner. In this case, an 

art by car to the fool of 

is n commended if the 

. cl< ar). The car should 

Wl ,t and take the visitor 

nd the Tore Waterfall. 

mpl< t ed this, anoth< r car 

,uld be ;ed for the Gap o\' 

\ i .-. . and an arrangemenl made 

th hould in« e1 the tourisl 

I B idon's cottage on the 

I bring him back to 

1. 

For 2 lays — Mai n, Tore, 

1 a drive to the Police 

Ke imare road will 

Isl day : while I 

iployed in the (hip, 

Aghadoe and the 

1) ;■■■ >n the 

jursion, Glena, Innis- 

i i Sullivan's Cascade. 

day may be devoted either 

v round the lakes, or the 

r of I antuohill and the 

l; 

ucely be observed that 
3, walks, and water 
may be spun out and 
'turn. 
I. — To (':ii» " f ]1 

r. Leaving the 

R. C. < bedral, a privi 

' i 

the d< - 
! I K nm 

I Victoria 

ii which 

lountains 

rlimi, 

the 

- in 
II 

■ ri 
A. little furl 

A 



celebrated for its eh. and round 
tower, once the seal of a bishopric, 
and stated in the Annuls of [nnis- 
fallen to have been the burial-place 
of a son of O'Donoghue. Tl 
singular building consists of 'i por- 
tions of different dates : the nave 
b ring considered by many antiquari a 
old as the 8th cent., while 
the choir was an addition of the L3th, 
The latter, which contains some tombs, 
[ s lighted al the E. end by a double- 
:1 ianeet window splayed inwardly. 
e nave was lit by round-headed 
windows, and is entered by a mag- 
nificenl Romanesque door in the W. 
wall, which even new in its decay 
shows many traces of exquisite are 

are. It consists of -A recessed 
arch 8, the 3 outer on - springing 
from pillars aboiri 3 ft. high, and 
ornamented with chevron, bead, and 
Ii mouldings, continued under the 
crown of the arch. Notwithstand- 
ing the apparent Norm, age of these 
►uldings and decorations, Dr. Pe- 
trie has shown in his work on the 
' Round Towers of Ireland ' (p. 200) 
that the use of such ornaments in 
Inland was of an age considerably 
anterior to the importation of Norm, 
architecture into the country. The 
round tower stands a little distance 
from the N.W. angle of the ch., and 
is in fi-'t incorporated with the wall 
sure. The h< ighl of what 
tie is lefl i- i\ 12 ft., and its 

cumference is 52 ft., the masonry 
which it is composed being re- 
markably regular. On the opposite 
side of the town is a mass round 



tow< r belonging to the castle of Agha- 
doe of rudi rials and workman- 
ahip, and evidently of early date, 

lough history mentions it i 
i re tra arthworka all 

ind it. 

en if* the vi dtor do not 

,-y. the view from Agha- 
,,ill D unpen 

d d( 
\ it beg cription, 

• , v . , ol( p norama of 



284 



Boute 31. — Mallow to Tralee. 



Ireland. 



Killarney lakes, mountains, woods, 
and islands, with their glorious lights 
and shades — sueh a panorama as 
once seen, never leaves the memory. 

2 J m. rt. a road is given off to 
Mill town and Castlemaine 10 m., 
and occupying the angle of junction 
is Aghadoe House, the very charming 
Italian mansion of Lord Headley, 
the owner of nearly all the land to 
the N. of the lake. Further on 1. 
is Grenagh House (D . Shiel, Esq.), 
and at 5 m. the Laune is crossed at 
Beaufort Bridge. A beautiful spot 
is this, and a paradise for salmon 
fishers, who can have fine sport 
from the pools underneath the bridge, 
while the trout fisher will find ample 
employment in the still backwaters 
at the side of the stream underneath 
the shady fringe of wood. A road 
on N. bank continues to Killorglin 
7 m. 

Passing the grounds of Beaufort 
House (Rev. Fitzgerald Day), the 
tourist should diverge to the 1. to visit 
Dunloe Castle, originally a mountain 
stronghold of O'Sulrivan Mor, and 
now the modernised residence of 
D. Mahony, Esq. Some of the most 
exquisite views of the Lake, looking 
westward, are to be obtained from the 
grounds. 

In a field adjoining the high road, 
near the entrance to the Gap, is the 
celebrated cave of Dunloe, discovered 
in 1838, which must be regarded 
"as an ancient Irish library lately 
disinterred and restored to the light. 
The books are the large impost stones 
which form the roof. Their angles 
contain the writing." — Hall. This 
writing consists of Ogham characters, 
the age and reading of which has 
long been a disputed point amongst 
antiquarians. "The conclusion to 
which Prof. Graves has arrived, as 
regards the age of the Ogham writing, 
is that it does not belong to the period 
antecedent to the introduction of the 
Latin language and Christianity into 
Ireland, in short, that it is an in- 
vention of the early monkish period. 



That the alphabet is not a very 
ancient one is sufficiently manifested 
by the arrangement of the letters. 
The five vowels, a o u e i, are formed 
into a group arranged in that order, 
thus manifesting the art of the gram- 
marian in distinguishing vowels from 
consonants, and again in dividing 
the vowels into 2 classes of broad 
and slender. A comparison of the 
Ogham alphabet with the Persepoli- 
tan and Phoenician alphabets, mani- 
fests that the pretended relationship 
between it and them has no exist- 
ence." The alphabet consists of series 
of scores or short lines branching off 
in different portions from a centre 
line called the Fleasg, which may be 
likened to a stem, the scores attached 
to which are the branches. The re- 
lative position of these scores to the 
main line constitute the difference of 
the letter. Generally speaking the 
corner angle of the stone is made use 
of as a Fleasg or medial line, though 
in the Ogham stone on Slieve Callane 
(Rte. 33) the Fleasg is in the centre. 
The visitor soon enters the Gap of 
Dunloe, which for savage grandeur is 
equal to anything in Great Britain, 
though on a much smaller scale 
than Llanberis. " The road now 
mounts up the hill by the side of the 
Loe, the ravine now becoming more 
wild and sombre, the hill sides more 
precipitous and frowning; while as 
you gain each successive step of 
tableland, the little dusky ravine ex- 
pands itself at the levels into dark 
and gloomy tarns which add wonder- 
fully to the effect." When fairly 
within the entrance, the car pulls 
up at a cottage, where dwells the re- 
presentative and granddaughter of 
the fair Kate Kearney. Unfortu- 
nately the beauty has not descended 
with the name to the dispenser of 
mountain dew, of which the tourist is 
expected to partake ; being the first 
instalment of successive troops of 
attendant Hebes, who pertinaciously 
follow everybody up to the top of 
the Gap, utterly destroying the charm 



Ireland. 



Route 81. — Oap ofDurdoe* 



285 



of the solitary grandeur by their 

51 li sa gabble and importunities 

for money. At one place a cannon 

is fired off, producing a really line 

About the 9th m. the Loe is em- 
it issues from a savage-looking 
htly called the Black Lake, 
1 here the car returns, leaving the 

• walk up to the head of the 

ip and down again to the head of 

the lake on the other side. A mag- 

nificont pass il is, guarded on each 

le bv tli*- precipitous qrags of the 

1" - 2413 ft. and the Purple 

l£< untain , J7: , .'.» ft. on one side, and 

tli- R eka on the ether, the summit 

rmer group being frequently 

I 'in- singular feature ^( the 

Dm - the comparatively 

population that i- scattered 

srh it. Although at a distance 

ap] as though far removed 

from in haunts, the eye ><>on 

little sad-coloured cabins 

th their plot of potato or rye ground 

•1 hi nd there amongsl 

:i!<. Just before 

at the h<ad of tlie Gap, 

fine view Looking back to 

the X.. but the moment the summit 

d. the panorama is glorious 

• which should bo drunk in 

1 ;tt 1< isure. If the ligl 
1. the effect is perfectly 
al in t! • asition from the 

the (t;iJ, t<» the 

bri Lake 

I fhief 

inl of Jthough the 

the Upper T.;i! 
with | f the Long R 

thai t- eds it. flowi 

wonderful 

glen 

- up into the heart "f the 

1 by 
in, from which * 

r up 
uld t 
\ 



an effect is produced quite unsur- 
passable (^r contrast. At the head 

of the valley i> a series Of small tarns 
which give birth to the river. Boon 
after beginning the descent of the 
Zigzag road to the head of the lake 
there is a singular logan or balancing 

Stone on the side of the hill to the 1. 
Arrived ;it the bottom, the tourist 
follows the stream of the Ciear- 
hameen from the Black Valley and 
arrives at a bridge, the gate of 
which is kept locked, until a silver 
key is applied t<» the janitor. From 
the Black Lake in the Gap of Dun- 
loe to Lord Brandon's cottage, at 
which the tourist has now arrived, it 
i> 5 m., that is, providing the road 
has been followed all the way instead 
of the short cut down the mountain. 
This is practicable, yet, although 
it appears to be plain sailing, it re- 
quires care, especially on the flat near 
the river, where the bogs are very awk- 
ward, and more particularly after wet 
weather. The boat should be waiting 
here by appointment, and now the 
tourist is in the hands of another 
class of Killarney guides, good-hu- 
moured, in: nt fellows, with a 

story for every rock, and a fable for 
every island. Their ingenuity in 
finding out impossible likenesses for 
h stone or stump is only equalled 
by the bold audacity with which 
they swear to the truth of the legend 
with which they have invested it. 
The principal islands in the Upper 
Lake are Eagle, Juniper, Ronayne's, 
and Arbutus [glands : the latter pr< 
» minently conspicuous for the indi- 
genous arbutus Arbutus unedd), the 
.: p culiarity and glory of Kil- 
larney. '• This is the only shrub pecu- 
liar to Killarney : ii is also found 
Glengarrin^ and in other p 
barony «»f Bear. It prevails 

throughout the Kil- 
larney v. iii sh( 

: and by i 
fob ii.l fruit add- much t<» 

] 

I 



286 



Boute 31. — Mallow to Tralee. 



Ireland. 



wild in the twisted boles and gnarled 
stems of tins tree, covering the island 
with an interlacement of wood down 
to the waters edge; and Mackay, 
in his ' Flora Hiberhia,' mentions a 
tree near O'Sullivati's Cascade which 
he measured and found to be 9J ft. 
in girth. The brilliant red berries 
are in perfection about October and 
November, and add an additional 
glow of colour to the scene. Not only 
on the islands, but from the water's 
edge along the banks (of the whole 
of the Upper Lake in particular), 
rises mass after mass of foliage, so 
dense as scarcely to allow the scars 
and peaks of the mountains to appear. 
As the altitude becomes greater, the 
vegetation thins and the character of 
tree is smaller and less dense ; till 
at length the mountain soars far 
above, as though it rejoiced to have 
escaped the close companionship of 
the forest below. It is this wonderful 
succession of vegetable beauty, vary- 
ing in its colours from the brightest 
green to russet brown, and contrast- 
ing with the gleaming scars, each 
one of which is tufted with its 
miniature tree-garden, that gives Kil- 
larney such a magic about its scenery, 
and confers such superiority over all 
other British lakes. 

Another scenic advantage that the 
Upper Lake possesses is in its solitude 
and absence of habitations ; indeed , the 
only trace of man, save Lord Bran- 
don's cottage, is the large castellated 
police barrack that overlooks the Lake 
from the Kenmare road. We now 
arrive at the outlet of the Upper 
Lake, which is so' narrow and hidden 
by the little bays and jutting pro- 
montories, tli at it is difficult to fore- 
tell from which side it may emerge ; 
an opportunity not lost by the boat- 
men, who cunningly lay on their 
oars and offer a small bet that the 
visitor will not be able to guess it. 
The narrow passage is close under 
the W. bank, and is called Column's 
Eye, soon after which is Colman's 
Leap. " This Colman, once upon a 



time, was lord of the Upper Lake, 
and instead of following the example 
of his namesake, who, as a saint an I 
peacemaker, assisted St. Patrick in 
converting Ireland to Christianity, 
spent most of his time in quarreling 
with the O'Donoghue, and in pro- 
voking him to single combat. Being 
in a minority at one of these di- 
versions, it appeared to him a pru- 
dential course to fly, and, closely 
pursued by his adversary, took this 
celebrated jump over the river, where 
the guides show you his footprints 
on the rock." — Little Tour. 

And now the tourist enters the Long 
Range (2| m.), replete and over- 
flowing with delicious beauty, such 
as is described by Shelley — 

" Where the embow'ring trees recede and 

leave 
A little space of green expanse, the cove 
Is closed by meeting banks, whose yellow 

flowers 
For ever gaze on their own drooping eyes 
Reflected in the crystal calm : the wave 
Of the boat's motion marred their pensive 

task 
Which nought but vagrant bird or wanton 

wind 
Or falling spear-grass, or their own decay, 
Had e'er disturbed before." Alastoe. 

The banks on either side are co- 
vered with arbutus, and fringed 
along the water-side with the lofty 
Osmunda regalis, while a sudden 
turn of the river often brings 
in view the stately form of the 
red deer (Cervus elaphus), which 
still holds covert in the woods and 
forests of Killarney, the only other 
habitat in the kingdom being the 
mountains of Erris, in the Co. Mayo. 
Indeed, a staghunt is still a great 
event at Killarney, although it is 
but seldom that such an exciting 
incident occurs, the last occasion 
being on the visit of Her Majesty 
to Mr. Herbert, at Muckross. 

About half way down the range 
one of the most striking scenes in 
Killarney district occurs, as the river 
winds round the foot of the Eagle's 
Nest, a gigantic precipice of about 



XI>. 



B idi 31, — HncJcros8 Lak Glena, 



2 7 



V2> ating a bold front bo 

autifully draped with wood and 
vegetation that it is Like a vast mass 
of . wall. At tin' snjnmil of this 

cliff the E -till builds its not. 

1 vari - are told by I 

itnien of bold attempts to capture 
in. II. re, if the boatmen \> - 
— a bugle, is the place to try the 
9, and here, in former 
. it was the practio t>> fire can- 
non, the reverberations of which are 
ibed by those who have heard 
tething peculiarly wond< r- 
ful. But in i [lit uce «»f a frightful 

•ut that happened in one of 
fusillades, the practice is for- 

D. 

I toward drifts t it with the 

at. until it - to the end 

. where the 

le hanks b - 

\ with overarching fcr< 

t sees i -In ad of him 

Bri lg< . I t ugh the 

i the water rushes with 

arful rapidity. But if he 

land, he is mistaken, for 

th an admonition t<> sit quiet and 

lia pluck, the b >atmenmake 

•oting the rapi 

do with admirable cool- 

^e and nerve. Indeed, - dare 

It pas 
_h it by night 
, - by day, and all 
very 
id< d the p 

e in .-till wal 
ely 8] 

i 
< > the 

I ■ . I . 

lie 

in ■km.is 

►uld not n 

\\ 



keen, and surrounded on the E, si i 
by the grovi a and grou f Muck- 

38. ( mi the S., too, rii i • 
d< rful Landscape mountain, the T< 
1 7 « ', l ft., which with its tiersofwood 
passing from thick groves tothesh 
der bushes that catch footing in t! •• 
en via - of the summit, is one of i 
most striking and picturesque fea- 
tures in all Killamey ; it ua more- 
over, Bucha changing feature that it 
is qoI always easy to n it. 

The tourist may, if he pr< fers, land 
on tin- Kenmare mad. and walk i r 
drive hack to Killarney, visiting I 
waterfall and the Abbey p, 28! 

lerging from the Long Range ■ 
the W. bank of Dinish Island on 
which there is a very pi< »t- 

tage embowered in i 
Middle Lake byBrickeen Bridg . 
now enter the Lower Lake at its nar- 
rowest portion, and row into tl 
Lay ofG . where the lofty Glena, 
a portion of the Purple Mountain, 

deep shadows over this qui 
nook, the clear water of which refle 
the green forests which so den.-' 
cover the face of the hill — 

" From Dinis' green isle to Glena's woodi 1 

she: 

Lord Kenmare has a c 
on the bank, a p< rfeel litth g< m 

ad he he . r< - 
over,with a kind thoughtfulness, built 
a Bimilar one for the u 
I D re all in c< ssari( - are provide 1 
a dinner ; and for ;i | 
;ty bent on c< lov< 

aery with th< ir en ature cob 
th- utiful 

in war] i. You a 

salmon in I teiy i >' ' 

have it broiled di 

skew* 1 apj 

1 - 
lyii ; h<»u. r'a 

I 

ad 1: 

I . 



288 



Boute 31. — Mallow to Tralee. 



Ireland. 



O'Sullivan's Cascade. There is, how- 
ever, a very line fall called the 
Ministers Bjck, soon after turning 
the corner of the promontory. The 
adventurous who do not mind a sharp 
struggle up-hill, through an almost 
primaeval forest and over boggy 
ground, will be repaid, but the way 
is not by any means fit for ladies 
or for the delicate. " Sullivan s 
Cascade consists of 3 distinct . falls ; 
the uppermost, passing over a 
ridge of rock, falls about 20 feet 
perpendicularly into a natural basin 
underneath ; thence making its 
way between 2 hanging rocks, the 
stream hastens down a 2nd preci- 
pice into a similar receptacle, from 
which, concealed from the view, it 
rolls over into the lowest chamber of 
the fall. Beneath a projecting rock, 
overhanging the lowest basin, is a 
grotto, from which the view of the 
cascade is peculiarly beautiful, ap- 
pearing as a continued flight of 3 
unequally elevated, foaming stages." 
— Wright. 

From this waterfall it is a short 
mile across to the exquisite island 
of Innisfallen (anc. Inis-faithlen), 
the gem of Killarney, " in which 
is found hill and dell — wood as 
gloomy as the ancient Druidical 
forests, thick with giant ashes and 
enormous hollies — glades sunny and 
cheerful, with the beautiful under- 
wood bounding them — bowers and 
thickets — rocks and old ruins — light 
and shadow — everything that nature 
can supply, without a single touch 
from the hand of art, save the 
crumbling ruins', and all in a space of 
21 acres, makes Innisfallen justly the 
pride of the worthy denizens of Kil- 
larney." 

" Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell, 

In memory's dream, that sunny smile, 
Which o'er thee on that evening fell 
When first 1 saw thy fairy isle." 

Moore. 

Close to the landing-place are the 
ruins of an abbey founded at the 
close of the Gth cent, by St. Finhian 



Lothar (the Lesser), and adjoining 
these ruins is a chapel or oratory, 
with a Romanesque doorway, de- 
corated with tooth-moulding. In 
this remote and sheltered spot was 
compiled the Annals of Innisfallen, 
" a composition usually attributed to 
the early part of the 13th century, 
though there is very good reason to 
believe that they were commenced 
at least 2 cent, before this period." 
— Prof. O'Currey. 

Strange to say, there is no copy in 
Ireland, and only one in the Bodleian 
Library at Oxford, which possesses 
57 leaves. 

" These annals contained a short 
account of the history of the world 
in general, and very little of Ireland 
till the year 430, when the author 
professedly begins a chronicle of Ire- 
land thus : — ' Lasp:aire Mac Neil 
regnavit annis xxiv,' and thencefor- 
ward it contains a short history of 
Ireland to 1318. 

" These 3 manuscript chronicles, 
the Saltair of Cashel, Tighernach, and 
Innisfallen, are written in Irish cha- 
racters and in the Irish language, in- 
termixed with Latin. They were 
formerly collected, with many other 
valuable MSS. relating to Ireland, by 
Sir J. Ware, and came first to the 
Earl of Clarendon, and then to the 
Duke of Chandos." — Connor. 

The visitor who has no interest in 
the annals will find plenty in ram- 
bling about this charming island, 
and taking in the opposite views 
of the Tomies and Tore on the S., 
the Slieve-mish mountains overlook- 
ing Tralee and Castlemaine on the W., 
and Ross Castle, with the Kenmare 
woods, on the E., and will return to 
Killarney after a day of such varied 
scenery as seldom falls to his lot. 

2. Excursion to Muckross, Ross, 
Mangerton, Tore, and Lough Loos- 
cannagh. 

This is essentially a land excursion, 
and keeps all the way along the 
eastern side of the lake. 

Immediately on leaving the town 



I m 



7? >ufr 31. — ^fuclross Abbey. 



289 



it. are the woods and mansion of 

11 >use, the residence of the 

Kenniare, the principal land- 

1 oftlie neiorhbomhood. The house 

itself i- plain. hut the gardens are 

rth visiting, and the grounds, from 

many points, offer most enchanting 

- of the lake. The demesne * \- 
from near the Victoria Hotel on 

the N. to K ss Peninsula inclusive on 
S. The little river Deenagh di- 

- it into 2 portions, in one of 

3 Knockrier Hill, a hillock 
lerall) - aded for the sake of the 
wr. 
The peninsula of Boss is 158 

- in extent, and is connected with 
mainland by a causeway, which 

in I level of winter i> flooded, 

ilv to make it what it is ge- 
: .tl ly .-.ni. ,. l; — Island On this 
'.and is h . a fortn 

! ., consisting of 

•nil tower or keep — 

■• Where ivy clasps the fissured stones 
Witt) Ita entwining arm>," 

: round« d by outworks, flanked by 

dl circular towers at tin; ang] 

The interior contains apartments 

m which exquisite Lake view- are 

itained : indeed, it \ situation 

in it- intrinsic interest thai 

K'»ss owes its celebrit . Although 

it^ I »un unknown, there isevery 

ison to believe that it was th- 

. the Lord of the 

1 iue 

M unities into which 

ach was divided. 

I played in 

the civil l, when it surren- 

I. 11 

Lord Broughil 

i I -- \Val [«-r, and v. 

tl held oul in Mun- 

-■ 

\ the 

I. eld tl. 

deli- 

■ 

: 
qu< ia I 

[If 



horse and font, laid down their arms 
and delivered up their horsi 

The remainder of the peninsula of 
Ross, which is generally the place of 
embarkation for Killarney visitors, is 
prettily laid out and planted. A 
copper-mine was opened at one time, 
and promised to be productive 1 , until 
the water got in and drowned it. 
The visitor should not omit to try 
the echoes under the castle, if the 
guides or any of the party happen t< 
have a bugle. 

From the entrance to Kenmare 
House the well-sheltered road con- 
tinues due S., crossing 1 m. the Bleak 
at a pretty reach in the river. On the 
1. is Danesfoii 8. Horsley, Esq. , and 
rt. the Lake Hotel. 

m. is the hamlet of Cloghreen, 
and on rt. the exquisite grounds of 
Muckross Abbey, the seat of Capt. 
Herbert. 

The visitor who has rowed round 
the Middle Lake will have seen a 
great portion of the beauties of this 
charming place, which as far as 
landscape goes has no equal in the 
kingdom. 

A very handsome Elizabethan 
building has been built of late years 
to supersede the "Id house, from de- 
ny Mr. Diirib. The attraction 
of Muckross, in addition to its scent ry, 
is the J/-/"//, the entrance I" which i- 
at the further gate, near the villa 
and 1m tels. 

The foundation of Muckross or 
Irrelaerh is ibed to McCarthy, 

Prince of I > smond, one of 
most powerful of the (dans who held 
property mar tin- Lake, and the 
jentative of the kings of Mun- 

r. Lie- date i f the building 

ted by Archdale to be 1440, a 
by th«- Pour M i to b of the 1 2 

<•. !,'. 1 1 .. >W< V< I . iili- d mi- 

•( d in the 16th cen 

from a Latin in- rip in 

the wall of th.- choir. e plan i f 
the ch. i l choir, I 

! which is a low square ton 

8. 



290 



Route 31. — Mallow to Tralee. 



Ireland. 



and on the N. the cloisters, with 
the conventual ohices, consisting of 
refectory with vaulted apartment 
underneath, dormitory with cellar, 
and Ahhofs house. There is also a 
small sacristy attached to the choir. 
The tower is supported by 4 narrow 
pointed arches, aad contained one 
bell, which has long since disap- 
peared. There is a pointed doorway 
at the W. end, and an exquisite 4-light 
eastern window. 

" The chancel is in imitation of 
the style of the end of the 13th cent., 
the nave and transept in that of the 
14th, and the central tower in that 
of the 15th." -Gent Mag. 

The chief beauty of Muckross is the 
cloisters, which are remarkably per- 
fect. A small door leads from the N. 
trans, to them. They consist of a 
series of graceful arches ranged round 
the sides of a quadrangle about 50 ft. 
square, and lighting a vaulted am- 
bulatory. On the 8. and E. sides 
these arches are circular-headed, 
while the remainder are pointed. The 
buttresses are carried sloping from 
the ground, as at Adare, without 
any uprights. The interior of the 
square is almost filled up by a 
gigantic yew-tree, with a girth 
of 13 ft., which spreads branches 
throughout the whole area of the 
cloisters. At the angles of the am- 
bulatory are staircases, mounting to 
the conventual apartments, viz., the 
kitchen, refectory with its large fire- 
place and arched recess for side- 
board, and the dormitories. 

In the centre of the choir is the 
modern tomb of the family of Mc- 
Carthy More. The care which is 
bestowed on the abbey and precincts 
is a jueasant contrast to the ne- 
glect generally observable in Irish 
abbey ruins, where in nine cases out 
of ten the mouldering relics of hu- 
manity are left bleaching in the open 
air. 

Close to the hotel a road turns 
off on the 1. to Mangerton, which 
rears its huge mass to the height of 



2756 ft. It is not by any means a 
picturesque mountain, being rounded 
and monotonous in outline ; but 
it is a favourite ascent with Kil- 
larney visitors, on account of the 
magnificent view gained from the 
summit, and its easy accessibility, 
a fair road winding up almost 
to the top, so that ladies can ride 
up. When the visitor gains a pla- 
teau at about a third of the height 
he finds; as usual; the ad libitum ac- 
companiment of mountain-dew girls, 
buglers, and idle guides, who from 
their elevated resting-places can spy 
every traveller. The pedestrian need 
not imagine, therefore, that he can 
dodge them by leaving the road, for 
they are sure to cut him off some- 
where. At the steepest point, f of 
the way up, it will be observed that 
Mangerton, although so regular in 
outline from below, is abruptly di- 
vided into two great depressions, the 
one to the W. being a crater-like hol- 
low, from which the mountain rises 
steeply on every side, the hollow 
being occupied by a considerable tarn 
known as the Devil's Punchbowl, from 
which issues one of the streams that 
contribute to form Tore waterfall. 

An old hag has her station at a 
little well at the mouth of the Bowl, 
who, true to the creed of the natives, 
endeavours to levy a toll on the cre- 
dulous visitor. 

From hence a very steep "breath- 
er" lands the visitor on the summit 
of Mangerton, when he will perceive 
that the eastern boundary wall of the 
Punchbowl is very narrow, and se- 
parates it from a much more precipi- 
tous and magnificent cwm or corrie, 
known as Glenacappul, or the Horses' 
Glen, as fine a bit of scenery as any 
in the district. A chain of 3 small 
tarns, Lough Erhogh, Lough Ma- 
nagh, and Lough Garagarry, are al- 
most entirely hemmed in by the 
precipitous cliffs of the mountains 
around, the hill which immediately 
adjoins, and in fact forms part of 
Mangerton, being called Stoompa. 



Ireland. Route 31. — Tore — Loosccmnagh Lough, 



291 



A little more to the E., situated in 
a basin at the junction of the bases oi' 
Mangerton and Crohane [2102 ft.), is 
the large deep Lake of Lough Guitane, 
where the fisher is Bure of good sport. 
The troul grow to a great erize, one 
weighing 50 lbs. having been cap- 
tured in this lake. It is, however, 
not easy to fish without a boat. 

The view from Mangerton is su- 
perb, embracing in the E. Crohane, 
the Paps, Gahirbarnagh, and all that 
extensive country lying between Mill- 
stn i i. Mallow, and Tipperary, with 
the blue range of the Gal tees in the Ear 
Northward, and to the W. is 
I ■ with the Blieve-mish moun- 

tain- in the neighbourhood of Dingle 
and Ventry, while a faint white line 
in the horizon marks the north 
tuary of the Shannon as it flows 
- I rb rt and Kilrush. Due west 
the Tore, the Purple mountains, 
and the K' eks, with Castlemaine Ha- 
d and the Laune running at their 
t : to the 8. is an immense sea 
of hills occupying the district to- 
rds Kenmare. The Bays of Ken- 
ire and Bantry are prominent ob- 
in this view— a view which 
n be blotted out from the 
memory. At the foot tie the Lai 
of Killnriif-v in all their beauty, with 

the thick w 1- and grov< a encircling 

their ah - It ought to be men- 
I views, much superior to 
M in be obtained from 

I' Ht 

1 "ii rt. turns off to Ken- 
•t the old road run- 
ning I- " I and M tgerton, 

used no* j,t by pedestria 

ii walk ujt the Owen- 

garrit! River on widen is the Tore 
G ; y'a I' rd, 5 

j-ro id l< ads 
Brid . on the new road, 
distance below the Poli 
ks. 

is a 

tty mil, calli ( I scade, 

occurring I at the 



1! m. The visitor should turn up 
the ra\ ine of the OwengarrirT, and 
follow the well-kepi walks to the roro 
Waterfall It is a fine fall of 60 it., 
although, like most others, it requii 
a Large volume of water to give it due 
effect. The steep rocky sides of the 
glen are thickly planted, and it Is at 
all times a very charming and pic- 
turesque spot. 

From Tore the road runs by the 
side of the lake. It is beautifully 
.-haded by Woods, and as the altitude 

becomes increased the views over the 
Upper Lake in particular defy all de- 
scription. At the base ofCromaglan 
mountain an additional effect is 
obtained by a tunnel through which 
the road is carried. 

10 m. Galway's Bridge, where the 
old road to Kenmare may be joined. 
A little above the bridge the ( talway 
and the Ullauns streams unite, and 
in their Bteep course downwards to 
the lake form a broken and majestic 
fall, known as Derrycunihy cascade. 
In fact, the whole course of this 
mountain river may be said to be a 
continuous cascade, and the effect is 
wonderfully increased by the foliage 
that so thickly borders it. 

Further on, we arrive at the Mul- 
grave Police Barrack, a lonely cas* 
tellated house, which seems put th< 
for qo other purpose than for the con- 

bulary to enjoy the view, bo 
strangely out of place does it appear. 

12 . in. Looscaunagh Lough is a wild 
and rather dn ary-looking she* t of 
water on the table-land at the sum- 
mit of the hill : and there is a road- 
side inn. generally considered I 
terminus of this excursion. Prom 
hence it is 7 m. to Kenmare. A new 

id of about 2 in. in Length 1 

n made by Mr, Pn ston Wh 

through his prop rty, n< ar the upp c 

lake, which enables the tourist to 

drive all round the lake, and obtain 

the most unique \ iews in i 

• rict 

I t of ( irraniuohUl :. 1 1 1 

. the i md in In land, is 

o 2 



292 



Route 31. — Wallow to Tralee. 



Ireland. 



undertaken comparatively rarely from 
Killarney, as the distance is long-, 
and the ground very trying. More- 
over, the liability to mist and clouds 
is even greater here than in most 
mountain districts, and after a long 
and wearisome journey, the tourist 
lias to retrace his steps without gain- 
ing his point. 

As regards lake views, it is not 
nearly so good as Mangerton ; but 
the character and features of the 
Reeks is so entirely different— so 
precipitous and riven with gullies, 
that it is worth the toil of an excur- 
sion to investigate them. 

The distance by the nearest way 
is 15 m. from Killarney. There are 
2 or 3 ways of proceeding ; one by 
the Cummeenduff, or Black Valley ; 
also the Gap of Dunloe, at the 
entrance of which a bridle-road turns 
off to the rt., crossing the Loe, and 
passing a hamlet near Cullenagh, 
where a guide should be obtained ; 
but the most usual way is to proceed 
on the Killorglin road as far as 
Church town, and turnup to tbe hills, 
following the course of a largish 
stream called the Gaddagh (accent 
on the last syllable), the scenery at 
the head of which is magnificently 
grand. 

The river emerges from 2 lakes, 
Lough Gouragh and Lough Callee, 
between which is the Hag's Glen, at 
the very base of Carrantuohill, which 
frowns upon it, as though forbidding 
further approach. To the rt. is the 
mountain of Knockbrinnea (Knock 
a Brian hu, "The Hill of the Sheep 
Raddle,") 2782 ft., from the sides of 
which project the Hag's Teeth, sin- 
gular rocks, resembling the but- 
tress of some mouldering edifice. 
For about J m. the path continues 
up the steep, through rocks, stones, 
long grass, moss, and shingle. When- 
ever a steady footing is obtained for 
a moment, you are induced to turn 
and enjoy the scenery ; but from the 
deep retreat in which the pathway 
is embosomed, the view is greatly 



contracted, and altogether inter- 
rupted towards the W. 

The way to the highest peak lies 
along the summit of a ridge, some- 
thing like the red ridge (clawdd-coch) 
of Snowdon, the top of which is a 
narrow convex, and covered with 
grass so short and slippery that it 
can hardly be walked over in dry 
weather unless in stocking-feet. 

The summits of the Reeks are com- 
posed of a species of shingle, which 
after heavy falls of snow loosens and 
unbinds, gliding down the moun- 
tain's breast in the thaw. For this 
reason naturalists say, "the height 
of the Reeks may have been sensibly 
diminished in the lapse of time." — 
Wright. 

The principal magnificence of the 
view from Carrantuohill is in the sea- 
coast stretching from the Shannon 
round by Dingle, Castlemaine, Ya- 
lentia, Kenmare, and Bantry, to Cape 
Clear. 

As regards the Lakes of Killarney, 
they are to a great extent hidden ; but 
a fine view is obtained of Lough Cur- 
raghmore (Rte. 35), together with an 
immense number of small tarns. The 
tourist may descend, with care, into 
the Black Valley, but this will depend 
on his arrangements, for unless he 
has a boat ordered for him at the head 
of the Upper Lake, he will find him- 
self in no mood for the walk to Kil- 
larney after his mountain travels. 

The following is the comparative 

heights of Carrantuohill with a few 

other British mountains : — 

Carrantuohill 3414 

Snowdon 3571 

Ingleboro* 2361 

Ben Nevis 4368 

Ben Lomond 3197 

Cader Jdris 2914 

Slieve-Donard 2796 

Nephin 2646 

Lugnaquilla 3039 

Distances from Killarney. — Mal- 
low, 41 m. ; Tralee, 24 ; Millstreet, 
21 ; Aghadoe, 2 J ; Dunloe, 7; Beau- 
fort Bridge, 5; Miltown, 11; Kil- 
lorglin, 12 ; Head of the Dunloe 



Iceland. Route 31. — Geology of KMamey District. 



293 



I Jap, 1 1 : Lord Brandon's cottage, 

1 1 : ( rlena, 1 : O'Sullivan'a Cascade, 

Innisfallen, 2 ; Rosa Oastle, 1 J ; 

M . : Tore Waterfall, -II: Man- 

: t .n Summit, 7 : Police Barrack, 

kraimucky Glen, 7 : Lough 

1. 3c : . 12; Kenmare, 19 ; 

( .. :;7 : Valentia, 40 ; Glen- 

I >f the Killarney dis- 

by no means intricate, the 
tire district belonging to tin i 
i >id U -1 Sandstone and the 
:«•. ! m round to the 

I . !\ill;irn- y is composed of car- 
stone, which is also 
1 at the peninsula of Roes, 

' the Lowe r 
I. fallen, Babbil [s- 

[nnisfallen we have beds 
wJ i their flagon* 83 and con- 

. and being inl 

I with dark grey shales, may 

ly belo the base of the 

1 >ne, just above the lower 

Tl aeral dip is either 

- varying 
and frequently tl 
Prom the amazing con- 
beds hi 
, a thick] f 100 ft. 

raid b - to form 

the vv. ahor< - of 
I! the op of 

- I; v, • tind 1m da of dark gi 

to the 

1 and 
At ! 

• <»f the island is a q 

O'D I . 

ilid li: 

it unequallj 

t tin] l"t of 

i.h d I "/. 

1 1 I 

in- 

1 



IJed, which have been upheaved l>y 
forces acting from below, and after- 
wards acted upon from above by 
denudation. 

The chain of which Mangerton is a 
portion is also Old Red, like the 
Purple Mountains, Toomies, and the 
Reeks, principally composed of green 

and red grits and shales, the Lowei 
heinu-uTeen and coarsely arenaceous, 
known as Glengarriff grits, while tin; 
upper strata arc characterized by a 
purple hne. 

" Tin Mangerton range is traversed 
by a great anticlinal curve, one side 
dipping to the S. towards Kenmare, 

and the other to the \., towardi 

Biucross and Lough Guitane. The 
upper beds, known a- tip- yellow 

dstones, do not occur often. Th 
may he Been at the entrance to i 
Gap of Dunloe, and (probably at 
O'Sullivan's Cascades. In the Gap 
of Dunloe, at the S. of the Clack 
1. ke, a great fault is observable, 
having 'a strike of W.N-W. acr< 
the valley, and causing a downthrow 
on the N.E. side. By this fault the 
lower Glengarriff grits appear in jux- 
taposition with the purple upp 

1>1 <N." 

The thickness of the old Red in 
this district is very great. " T 
precipice on the N.E. flank of I 
rantuoghal, from the summil of the 
mountain t<> Lough ( . i xpo« 

• be tbickn 2318 it., and 

tin *ly in the purple Bubdivisi 

of the -roup. On the S. side of Cum- 
in- enduff < lien a section is obtained 
of 5525 it., through pari of the i 

with lie purj 
Is : while Mr. ( >" K . lly determi] 
e thickness of one n ction over I 
mountain to the \v. . | | ■ l; ck- 
water al oo1 L< 
I yellow 

re arrive al a thickness of 

I :, L2.0 ■" :• Willi I 

and rare 

pi mi impr< 

| d U] 



294 



Route 31. — Malloiv to Tralee. 



Ireland. 



We must not, however, omit to 
mention that igneous rocks occur to 
the S. of Lough Guitane, in a hill 
called Bennavonmore, in the form of 
felstone of a columnar structure, and 
of felstone ash in the glen of the Cap- 
pagh river, and the north slopes of the 
hill between Stoompa and Eskduff. 
Taking into consideration the inter- 
stratification of the ashes with the 
sandstones, it is most likely that the 
intrusion occurred in the Old Red 
sandstone era. 

Perhaps the most interesting fea- 
ture in Killarney geology is that of 
the Glacial era, known as drift. 
From Cahirbarnagh to Killarney, all 
along the north base of the Paps, 
Croghane, and Mangerton, is observ- 
able a steep slope of drift and boul- 
der deposit, and it is particularly 
well seen near the spot where the 
rly. joins the Flesk, which has cut 
its course through this drift. At Kil- 
larney itself it disappears, but reap- 
pears again on each side of the Gap 
of Dnnloe, and runs W. all the way 
to Killorglin. 

Of course, with such a formidable 
range of mountain precipices, there 
are plenty of glacial groovings and 
evidences of glaciers. The best and 
most accessible are in the Gap of 
Dnnloe, about 1 m. from the north 
entrance. " It consists of 3 lunette- 
shaped mounds of local boulder 
drift, sand, and gravel, arranged in a 
rude, concentric form, one beyond 
the other, across the mouth of the 
Gap, the 2 entire mounds measuring 
fully 1 m. in length by 100 yards in 
width. The S.E. termination of the 
2 outer moraines rests on the flank 
of the Purple Mt., at an elevation 
of about 400 ft. The inner mound 
is only 650 yds. in length by 150 in 
width, and it is cut through in its 
central part by the Loe, the road to 
Killarney also passing through the 
cutting. On the E. side of the Gap 
entrance, and at the base of Toomies 
rock, the drift is arranged in massive 
mounds. These have been steeply 



escarped at an angle of fully 30° to 
the W. The two last deposits left 
by the glacier, as the local climate 
became warmer, may now be seen on 
the N. flanks of Tomies, and at the 
N. end of the Black Lake, the former 
at an elevation of 800 ft., and the 
latter 512 ft., or 178 ft. above the 
waters of the Lake.'— Geol. Survey. 

There can be no doubt that the 
Lake of Killarney was once much 
more extensive than it is now, and 
that there has been a good deal of 
local elevation ; and as a proof, the 
geologist may visit some limestone 
rocks in the pasture-land of the S. 
part of Oahernane demesne, very 
much water worn, and in fact perfectly 
eaten away at the base. 

Of plants and ferns there is more 
abundance than there is of fossils. 
Of ferns the following are found : — 

Poly-podium dryopteris . .Tore Mountain. 
Aspidium thelypteris . . . Muckross Demesne. 

A. Felix-mas. Mangerton. 

Asplenium viride Tore Mountain. 

A. adian turn nigrum ...On the limestone 

rocks atMuckross. 

A. filix fcemina Muckross. 

Scolopendrium vulgare . . 

Pteris aquilina 

Trichomanes brevise turn. Tore Waterfall. 
Hymenophyllum Wilsoni Killarney. 

Osmunda regalis 

Opbioglossum vulgatum. 
Lycopodium alpinum ...Mangerton. 
Equisetum variegatum . .Muckross. 

Thalictrum minus Gap of Dunloe Isle. 

Nymphasa alba Peeks. 

Draba incana Tore, Mangerton, 

Saxifraga geum Tore. 

S. elegans Dunloe. 

S. hirsuta On Carrantuohill. 

S. serratifolia Dunloe. 

S. hirta « Carrantuohill. 

Rubia peregrina Muckross. 

Lobelia Dortmanna Lakes. 

Solidago cambrica Mangerton. 

Hieracium molle Reeks. 

H. sabaudum Ross Island. 

Apargia taraxaci Reeks. 

Erica cinerea Muckross, 

Arbutus unedo Islands in Lake. 

Orobanche minor Muckross Abbey. 

Melampyrum prat Mangerton. 

Scutellina galericuense . .Lower Lake. 

S. minor lata . . . 

Oxyria reniformis. ..... .Reeks. 

Paris quadrifolia Ross. 

Khyncospora fusca From Upper Lake. 

Carex rigida Carrantuohill. 



I LAND. 



Haute o2. — Limerick to Trtdee, 



296 



: mum flagellars In wo... is at Glen- 

Beak, very rare. 

D. rulvellum Reeka. 

llvpium mtcans Woods nr.Blllarney. 

H. < r st-inenium Muck: 

11. c nfertum rorc Waterfall. 

hila irrigua Ho. 

lannia Lyellii ... Woods nr. KUlamey. 

nrpa Tore Waterfall. 

Ut.UU Do, 

i. MangertoD. 

! fishing in KUlamey Lakes 

ighl to be first-rate, but it is aot, 

ac la anglii usual method 

1 ii 3-fishing, by which a good 

Lmon are secured. For the 

r the rivers are the best sport. 

1 1 v, rv I for trout, 

I when there is plenty of water, 

: hut it is tar surpassed by 

the Laune, where both salmon and 

kably good. 

good trout*nahing in 

1 agh (iu but it will require a 

Id have to >nt 

Killarney. I lie Jmo ferox 

i.- plentiful in this last I til 

would, perhaps, b scarcely fair 

KUlamey without refer- 

Lds, although to re* 

i in detail would he foreign 

• pm >f a handbook : and 

visitor will hear plenty 

in the boatmen and guides, 

urns in proportion 

of their 
O'D 

•• Eyi iv 
ua forot d into 
y. The 
I out to the torn 

n-hou ' ble, cellar, 

in : 
be 

Of tin- 

lid 

- 
... 

truth of b 

. -Hull. 
r .sun 



armed cap-a-pie, and mounted on 

his favourite white steed, and rid 
ever the territorial waters oil which 

he once held sway. Fortunate is 
that person who catches a glimpse. 

o\' him, for good luck is sure to fol- 
low him. 

" For when tli<- last April sun grows dim, 

Thy Naiads prepare bis steed for him 

Who dwell-, bright lake, in thee. 

Of all the proud Bteeds that ever hore 

Young plumed chiefs on sea or shore, 

Whit.- Bteed, most Joy to thee, 
Who still, with the young first glance of 

spring, 
From under that glorious lake dost bring 
My love, my chief to me." 

MOOBB. 

The remainder of the route from 
KUlamey to Tralee does aot require 
much description. The line runs 
through a dreary boggy country, 
which offers a wonderful contrast to 
the beauties that the tourist has just 
lefi — a noticeable feature, by the 
way, in the best [risb scenery, which, 
like tin oasis in the desert, is always 
approached through a melancholy 
and ugly country. 

Near Farranfore stat., 52 m. the 
river Manin is crossed in its course 
towards pastlemaine. Very near its 
source is the little town of Castle 
[aland, at the foot of the Clanrud- 
dery mountains. There are Blight 
remains of the old fortress, hut 

ircely of Buffici< id inter, -t to war- 
rani ;i divergence thither. 

63 m. Tral< e Rte. 32 . {Eotdi 
onerhaasi t Arm.-, bad, 



ROUTE 32. 

LIMERICK TO TRALEE. 

i routes lie open to the fcour- 

: — 

1 . I '. • oer ( 

! ah the Low i" Shan- 



296 



Route 32. — Limerick to Tralee. 



Ireland. 



non, calling at Beigh, Foynes, Glin, 
Tarbert, and Kilrush. 

2. By rail to Foynes ; and from 
thence by steamer to Tarbert. 

3. By mail car all the way to 
Tralee. 

It will be sufficient to point out 
the various places passed by the 
steamer in its course, which cannot 
be visited except they lie near the 
landing-places. 

Gliding past the quays of Limerick 
and leaving in the distance the tower 
of the cathedral, the steamer enters 
the Pool, which is bordered by nu- 
merous pretty villas. Soon the river 
bends, having on rt. the towers of 
Coreen Castle, and to 1. 3^ m. the 
demesnes of Tervoe (Hon. W. Mon- 
sell, M.P.), and Cooperhill (J. C. 
Cooper, Esq.), behind which rise, 
from its eminence, the ruins of Car- 
rigagunnell Castle. 

5 m. it. are the keeps of Castle 
Dounell, Cratloekeel, and Cratloe, 
backed up by the woods of Cratloe, 
at the foot of which runs the Ennis 
rly. ; and fine views are gained of the 
Clare hills, that lie between this dis- 
trict and Killaloe. 

10 m. passing sundry islands which 
are grouped about the widening 
stream, is on rt. Bunratty Castle, 
situated a little distance up the Bun- 
ratty river. This together with the 
foregoing ruins are noticed in Rte. 
33. On the 1. shore is the mouth of 
the Maigue, a considerable stream 
that rises in the S. of the county, and 
flows past Croom and Adare. A 
long shoal now intervenes in the 
tideway, breaking up the channel 
into N. and S. 

13 in. 1. is the little pier of Ring- 
moylan, the port, if it may be called 
so, for Pallaskenry, which lies 2 m. 
to the S. Farther still on 1. are the 
demesnes of Castletown (Rev. W. 
Waller), and Bushy Park, the latter 
near the station of 

16 m. Beagh, the landing-place 
for travellers to Askeaton 'p. 299 . 
Close to the quay are remains of the 



ancient castle of Beagh ; the parish 
of Iverus, in which it is situated, 
deriving its name from a Danish 
adventurer who built a ch. here. The 
whole. district abounds with raths. 

From the quay it is 4 J m. to Ask- 
eaton. Nearly opposite is the broad 
embouchure of the Fergus, which 
runs up to Castle Clare (Rte. 33;, and 
is the means of supplying from that 
county immense stores of grain and 
provisions. There are at this point 
considerable islands and sand-banks, 
which do not by any means add to the 
security of the navigation. Passing 
1. the mouth of the little river Deel, 
we arrive at 24 m. Foynes, the snug 
little harbour and terminus of the 
Limerick and Foynes Rly., sheltered 
from the N. by Foynes Island. On 
the N. bank of the Shannon, which 
is here nearly 2 m. in breadth, are 
the village of Killadysert and the 
demesne of Cahircon ( — Kelly, Esq.), 
one of the finest residences on the 
Lower Shannon. 

2. The Foynes and Limerick Rly. 
leaves the general station in com- 
pany with the other lines, soon turns 
off to the S., and runs through an 
uninteresting district to 

7J m. Patrick's Well, the junction 
of the direct Cork and Limerick 
Rly., which runs through Bruree and 
Croom to Charleville, there joining 
the Great Southern and Western 
(Rte. 25). 

[About halfway between Patrick's 
Well and Limerick, to the N. of the 
line, is the village of 

Mungret, where the antiquary will 
find several ecclesiastical ruins. A 
monastery for Augustines was founded 
here by St. Patrick, and, notwith- 
standing repeated destruction by the 
Danes, was always re-edified, and 
continued to flourish until the Disso- 
lution, containing, according to the 
Saltair of Cashel, an establishment 
of 1500 monks. The ruins are those 
of the walls of the nave and choir, 
which was lighted by a Pointed E. 
window 7 , and of a square embattled 



^ELAND. 



Route 3*2. — Manister — Adore, 



297 



i - ". B sides this abbey, there are 
lains of 2 cba and of a castle a 
little to the N.] 
In the neighbourhood of St. Pa- 
k's Well are Faha T. Russell, 
I :. . Elm Park Lord 4 Clarina), 
_ 1 lg( . to the n. of the rl; 
yflin D. Westropp, Esq. , 
1 irtetna, and ('iron Mount l\ 
--(. to the 1. 
[The direcl Cork line runs due S. 
• in. passing en 1. the tower 
i . and en rt. that of Fan- 

_-i<«wn. I m is rather prettily 
on thi Mi igue, which i> here 
b bridg ad 

antiquity, app< ar- 
d< vivt d its name from its 
a with tin- Kildare family, 
■ I Di-a-1 'I 

. which i mod< rni>* d and 

I 1. 1 tickson, M.P., 
built by one of the Earls of 
K 

the town un- 

, and round tower of 

ry similar to thai 

I K. rry Rte. 33). It 

livid, d into s, v, idi a window 

•h. • w indow with a 

alar In ad i s lly. M while 

uotion pit » i'v. a the 

m by a linn 1 which 

jainl - ' I Th<- 

theC ' ''H- 

• d 

"! . Hi - 

I by 01 ' 

tnmi m 
• .■ I 

Rati . and v 

I polil L imi rt- 
in the kingdom. 
My tr mi 

lly tin D8 

d the 

w I 

I 



the same dimensions as the choir, 
and approached bya private staircase 
from the altar through the wall of the 

X. aisle. 

In the neighbourhood of Oroom 
are Caherass House Sir 1). Roche, 
Bart. , ( !room House 1 1, Lyons, 
Esq.), and Islandmore It. Maxw< 11. 
Esq. . 

The line now follows up the valley 
i>\' the Maigue, passing 8 m. Cluny- 
grove and ( den Sevan, to 

13 in. Bruret . which p s& n - 

mains of a strong " triple " fortress i I 
the De Lacy, enclosed by a rampart 
wall more than 120 yds. round. Tl 
i> ;il><> close t" the eh. a castellated 
building erected by the Knights 
Templars, in the 1 2th cent. Bruree 
House is the residence of Captain 
Shelton. 

18 m. Charleville, Rte. 25.] 

r J*he next station on the Foynes 
line is .11 m. A dare , the woods and 
ruins of which are very prettily seen 
from the lly.. and which d«<nhil<>s 
prave the name of '•• Ath-Dara," the 
Ford of Oaks. The history of Adare 
is intimately associate d with the great 
family <>f Fitzgerald, Earls of Ivil- 
dare, who founded the 3 Abbeys and 
n d the castle. The whole of the 
estate n verb d to the Crown on the 
rebellion of Thomas Fitzgerald, other- 
wise Silken Thomas. Ti le sub- 
.-< qnently sustain d Borne si< ; 
the hands alternately of the D< smonds 
and th- 1 .: 2 Lish, and was ultimately 
dismantled by ( Cromwell. The ruins 
situated on i oka of the 
ad, t< g< ther with the 1 
narrow hi idge of M arches are a \ 
picturesque item in t! ae. 

\ '. •■ - particulaj ly rich in « a le- 
! remains, and as fortunal 
in th< Earl oi 1 » 
tor of the Boil \n li" is ooj only 

sidenl and interi sU >\ in th< 
bu 

dp dui i 
b autiful mi' . A Manor h 

buill in \- n 

• ■ 

. ta- 

u 9 



298 



Boute 32. — Limerick to Tralee. 



Ireland. 






is now one of the handsomest resi- 
dences in Ireland. The abbeys are 
three : — 

1. The Trinitarian Abbey, found- 
ed 1230, is an Early Eng. build- 
ing, consisting of nave and choir, 
now used as a Koman Catholic 
chapel, and surmounted by an em- 
battled tower. It is situated near 
the entrance of the park, and has 
been restored with great care. There 
is some excellent stained glass in 
the interior. Notice also the schools, 
which are in keeping with the rest 
of the ch., together with a very 
beautiful cross and well. 

2. The Augustinian Abbey (date 
1306», near the bridge, has been 
in like manner converted to the uses 
of the parochial ch., and contains 
on the N. side, in addition to the 
nave, choir, and tower, the cloisters 
which have been restored by the 
late Earl of Dunraven, who built a 
mausoleum close by. The refectory 
has been happily appropriated for a 
schoolhouse. 

3. By far the most beautiful ruin is 
that of the Franciscan Abbey (date 
1464 ., within the grounds of the Manor, 
though on the opposite side of the 
river. This also has a nave, choir, 
and S. transept, with a very graceful 
tower rising from the intersection; 
and attached to the transept are 
chapels and oratories. The nave con- 
tains 3 crocketed niches and an Early 
Pointed 3-light W. window. The 
S. trans, is a little to the W. of the 
intersection, and has on the E. 2 
beautiful little' chapels, also with 
niches. A door on the N. side leads 
to the cloisters, which are in good 
preservation, together with the refec- 
tory and domestic offices. The in- 
terior of the choir has some elabo- 
rately worked niches and sedilia and 
an exquisite 4-light window. 

There are 2 ruined churches in 
the ch.-yard; one the Old Parish 
Ch., the other a chapel of 14th cent. 

The ruins of the Castle are most 
extensive, consisting of an inner 



ward surrounded by a moat, and 
enclosed by a spacious quadrangle. 
The keep or central tower (which 
may be ascended) is defended by a 
gateway connected with the tower by 
a semicircular flanking wall on one 
side. It is thus placed in connexion 
with the E. side of the inner court. 

The grounds of the demesne are 
charmingly wooded, and the river 
Maigne flowing through them 
affords excellent salmon and trout 
fishing. Admission to the park is 
obtained by ticket from the inn. 
An antiquarian work on the eccle- 
siastical remains of A dare has been 
undertaken by the noble owner. 

Continuing his course by the rail, 
the traveller passes 1. Clonsire House 
(W. Power, Esq.), and rt. Hollywood 
(G. Hewston, Esq.). 3 m. rt. is Cur- 
ragh Chase, the magnificent seat of 
Sir Yere de Vere, Bart., situated in 
a very large park, embellished with 
a lake and much wood. 

17 m. BathJceale Stat. The town 
of Kathkeale, nearly 2 m. to the j§., is 
a long straggling place on the river 
Deel, though the second largest town 
in co. Limerick, and contains some 
ecclesiastical ruins. The Earl of 
Desmond built a castle, which was 
repaired in the reign of Elizabeth by 
Sir Walter Kaleigh, and has since 
been rendered habitable. There are 
also remains of an Early Eng. priory, 
founded by one Gilbert Harvey in 
the 13th cent., and consisting of side 
walls, gable, and tower. In the 
neighbourhood of the town are Rath- 
keale Abbey (G. Leech, Esq.), Castle 
Matrix, Beechmount(T. Lloyd, Esq.), 
Ballywilliam (D. Maunsefl, Esq.), 
and Mount Browne (J. Browne, Esq.) 
[the last on the road to Ballingarry, 
which lies 5 m. to the S.E. 

Here is another Franciscan monas- 
tery in ruins, though with the ex- 
ception of the tower there is little 
worth seeing ; also a castellated 
building in the town, known as the 
Parson's Castle : and the ruins of 
two others, Lissamoota and Wood- 



:l vnp. 



Route .°>2. — Askeaton — Foyn >. 



299 



. in the neighbourhood. The 
intry near Ballingarry becomes a 
tie more hilly and striking, rising 
K , ckl arina to nearly 1000 ft. A 

il h< ap now occupies the site of 
I to have been an ancienl 

i ] 
[7 in. to the S.W. on the direcl 
d t«» Abbeyfeale and Listowel, is 
town of 

anc. \m Inns : Vic- 

l turtenay Arms . on the river 

A small tributary of the Deel. 

A death of the great Earl of 

1 > i, the property was grant* d 

;u to the Courtenay family, 

hands it atiU remains. Of 

castle, thei si - ral 

tow rs, i gether 

[ueting hall. ( to 

Ringwo d and Castle 

\ . B ■ . II. RodwelJ . 

I A 3 feale and 
v.] 

w in; A suddi n bend 
\.\v.. . rt. Nantinan 

( L House, and crossing I 

riv< - at 
•Jl in. t I ph- 

ther town of the Pi 
who, s their 

d it by a strong 
it with a magnificent 
I ' in 

which Jan* • Id, L5th 

| • I rer 

nri< d in l.v The 
at*- the Deel, which runs 

• I :hiroui 
M little the line, ifl n 

d romantic by a 
nion 1< ;»)• ; but below 

I > i.s tidal, all«'\\ i 

ch. < h 

linn - 

I ,U" 

C I with 

alt 

K I 

Dt. 



in the ruins of the B. transept, which 
was separated from the nave by 2 
Marly Pointed arches, now blocked 
up. At the E. end rose 2 towers, 
square al the base and octangular 
above. The Franciscan or Rock Ab- 
bey is on the E. bank of the river, 
a little to the X. of the town. It 
was a magnificent cruciform eh., of 
later date than most that the tourist 
has visited in this pari of Ireland. 
The cloisters are remarkably perfect, 
and are enclosed on each side by 12 
Pointed arches, support d by cylin- 
drical columns with richly foliaged 
capitals. The line now approaches 
the coasts and inlets of the Shannon, 
and arrives at the terminus of 

26m. FoyneSt where the traveller 
embarks on board the steamer and 

Sails "lit into the channel of 

" The spacious Shenan spreading like a sea,'' 

the banks of which arc prettily 
wooded, although of nut sufficient 
height to be called bold. The geo- 
logist may be glad to know that 
-•nod coal-plants and shells haw 
been found in the coal-shales near 
Poynes Introd. p. xxvii.). Soon after 
leaving Foynes, the tourist passes on 
1. the grounds of Mount Trenchard 
Bon. 8. Bic The next stop- 

page is at Glin, adjoining which 
thi itle, the s< at of the Knight 
( .lin, whose family lias held it 
in on for b. iw. en 600 and 

r& The old Castle of Glin 
ua celebrated for its sit ge by Sir 
I n w . during the rebellion 
the Earl of !>• smond in the 
of Elizab th, i.i which, afb r a 
ti. roe hand-to-hand fight, the Knight 
of Glin and hi ant bund were 

royed. A fuU >unt of this 
affair will be found in Pacats Hiber- 
oia, or, Ireland Aj-i and h 

d. und t t: mil nt of Sil 

i , ( oi tin I l'r> - 

aid nt of Mu 

iii. / with it- w< oded 

h< adland, its lightfa nd battery, 

pretft aa of I 



300 



Houte 32. — Limerick to Tralee. 



Ireland. 



river. The channel, defended by the 
Tarbert Battery on the S. and Kil- 
kerin Battery on the N., is known 
as Tarbert Reach, immediately past 
which is a considerable estuary run- 
ning up on the N. to C louder alaw 
Bay. 

Tarbert (Hotel : Gallagher's) is a 
quiet little town about 1 m. from the 
landing-place, the road running by 
the woods of Tarbert House (J. Pater- 
son, Esq.). 

As all the routes from Limerick 
converge here, the mail road must 
now be described. Quitting the city 
through the S.W. suburbs, the road 
runs straight for 3 m. Mungret Cross 
Roads, where the traveller will find a 
little to the 1. the castle and ecclesi- 
astical ruins (p. 296). Passing rt. 
Tervoe House (Hon. W. Monsell), 
and 1. Elm Park (Lord Clarina), the 
isolated towers of Carrig a Gunnel (the 
" Rock of the Candle ; ') Castle are 
seen about 1 J m. to the rt. It was 
built upon a basaltic rock 500 ft. 
above the Shannon, by O'Brien, 
Prince of Thomond, in the 14th cent. 
But. though it changed hands several 
times, it does not appear to have 
played any important part until the 
Revolution, when'it was blown up by 
cider of General Ginckel ; " 84 barrels 
of powder being employed on account 
of its great strength." Saxifraga tri- 
dactylites will be found growing on 
the ruins. 

At 6J m. the Maigue is crossed by 
a drawbridge, and the ruins of 2 
castles are visible. On rt. Court 
Castle, and on 1. that of Cullan, 10 m. 
A road is given, off to Pallaskenry, 
2 m. 

Further on 1. the tower of Derreen 
Castle is perceived, with Castle Grey 
and the fine estate of Curragh Chase. 
14 m. 1. Bally England House, and 
16 m. Aslceaton. 

The next point of interest is at 23 
m. Shana golden, a little to the S. of 
which is the ruin of Shanid Castle, 
one of the Desmonds' strongest for- 
tresses, fruin which they derived their 



war-cry of Shanid-a-boo. Between 
Shanagolden and Foynes is Knock - 
patrick Hill, 574 ft., commanding 
a very extensive view of the Shannon 
and the whole plain up to Limerick, 
together with the hills of Clare and 
Ennis on the opposite bank. On the 
slope of the hill is a ch., said to have 
been built by St. Patrick, whose chair 
and well are shown in an adjoining 
field. 

31 m. Glin, from whence the road 
runs pretty close to the river, passing 
Glin Castle, Westwood, Fort Shan- 
non, and Ballydonohoe (T. Fitz- 
gerald, Esq.), to 35 m. Tarbert. 

[From Tarbert a run of 8 or 9 m. 
will bring the tourist to Kilrush 
(Hotel: Vandeleur Arms), a small 
seaport on the Clare coast, chiefly re- 
markable for containing an excel- 
lent harbour, frequently used by 
ships in distress. As it is the only 
port in co. Clare really on the 
seaboard, it possesses a fair share 
of trade, which in the summer time 
is considerably improved by the 
numbers of tourists and families bound 
for the bathing-place of Kilkee, which 
is 8j m. distant. To the S.E. of the 
town is Kilrush House, the residence 
of the proprietor of the soil, Colonel 
Vandeleur. The antiquary should 
not omit to take a boat from Kilrush 
and visit the ecclesiastical remains 
on Scattery Island (anc. Inis-cathaig), 
where the holy St. Senanus founded 
an establishment. Like St. Kevin, 
he sought a remote spot, where he 
vowed female foot ne'er should tread 
— not so remote, however, but that 
he was found out by St. Cannera, a 
female saint who wished to set up 
her tent with him, but who met with 
a stern refusal : — 

" The lady's prayer Senanus spurned ; 
The winds blew fresh, the bark returned ; 
But legends bint, that had the maid 

Till morning's light delayed 
And given the saint one rosy smile, 
She ne'er had left his holy isle." 

According to the Life of St Senanus, 
which may be found in the ' Acta 




Ibeland. 



Route o:2. — Kfflcee — Loop Head. 



301 



B actorum HibernisB,' his refusal waa 

coiK'lh .1 as follows; — 

■ ( IP esul: Qui foeminis 
i immune est rum mooachis? 

\ noc allam aliam 

Adniiunnus in insulaui." 

The remains are those of n couple 

churches of the rudest and mosl 

primitive form, and the oratory of St. 

Senanus, "which measures is ft. by 

L2. The doorway, which occupies 

an unusual position in the S. side, is 

r. in hi ight, 1 ft. 10 in. wide at the 

ii. I '2 i'i. 4 in. at the bottom. 

Tb E. window splays externally, 

din this respect is probably unique 

in Ireland." — TPi The round 

•j-_! ft. in circumference, and 

120 t't. in height, and pO£ - a 

way on a level with tin- ground, 

ill- r unusual feature. It v 

uck by lightning, which caused a 

at from the summit. St. Se- 

- is the same who built the eh. 

I ah ca Lthra, in Lough Derg (Ete . 

Kilki Hotd: Moore's), the 
d lion; thin --place for the S.W. 

Ireland, is situated on a snug little 
n retreating from that terrible 
te of C" ;! >r rocks which form Mal- 
and rightly so called, lor if a 
I happen t<» !><• entangled there, 
the only chan snip 

northern side of the inter- 
tall inlets of Dunb( 
I - innor. For about 20 m., thai 

Loophead t" Dunb< g, "theshore 
pi - i ;i magnificent scale the 
mi Nature in the aumerous and 

dl. asly cha8i 

, and island-] :nt<> which the 

of the Atlantic 
- have b bold rocky 

it." ; M y, at 1 

which Kilkee is -it 

.t. at by 
I i ■ . . rna Rod 
,t a short walk only La uec 
aary | t of the 

id th. itic 

! 

wand L Bay, 4 



m., where the clifife increase in height; 

and contain many fine caves in their 
recess - ; while to the B. it is a mag- 
nificent walk to Castle Point, crowned 
with the ruined tower of Doonlicha 
C'a>tlo. The most prominent feature 
iA' this pari ^\' the ooasl are Grean'a 
Rock and Bishop's Island, an im- 
mensely bold, escarped rock, called 
in Irish Oilean-an-Easpoig-gortaigh 
the Island of the Bungry Bishop , a 
name that well signifies the barren 
and savage aspect and the difficulty 
of reaching it. There is en it, how- 
ever, a line specimen of Bee-hive 

oratory and a house. " The ex* 
rior face of the wall, at four different 
hei des to tin- depth of about 

1 ft.; a peculiarity not found in any 
other structure of the kind, and pro- 
bably introduced with the view oi 
1 sssening the weight of the don 
shaped roof, which was formed, not 
on the principle of the arch, hut. 
as usual, by the gradual approxima- 
tion of the stones as the wall as- 
eended."-«— Wdkeman. 

For more distant excursions the 
traveller bhould visit Loop Head, 16 
m. to the 8.W., the road to which 
runs about midway hei ween the 
Shannon and the Atlantic, Leaving 
to the 1. the village and bay oi' C'ar- 
rigaholt, and passing through the 
hamlets of Cross and Kilbaha. 

From the lighthouse at Loop Head 

i- a magnific nl view of the estuary 
of the Shannon to the E. : I 
Bead, Brandon Mount, and the hills 
of Dingle Promontory to the s., 
backi d up by the lofty summits of 
MM rillicuddy'e Ete ke ; ami to the \. 
the mountains of Count mara and the 
L2 Pin-, with the island an 

aiding out to sea, It is probably 
and wild a panorami 
anywhere in the three king- 
doi 'I'll.- cliff scenery on tin- por- 
tiou of th-- ooasl is also \> ry remark- 
[mmi dint. Iv round th ill 
a isolated rock, known ai D 
1 ( Irania's 1' »ck ; an-! at i ! 
..,:... r up are som 



302 



Route 32. — Limerick to Tralee. 



Ireland. 






the natural bridges which are such 
W< mderful features of this coast. The 
following are the dimensions of the 
arch : " Tin 4 span is 72 ft. ; height 
from the water, 49 ft.; thickness of 
the arch at the crown, composed of 
rock, and covered with earth and 
verdure, 19 ft. ; width of the sheet of 
rock underneath the arch, 45 ft. ; and 
width of the grassy walk on top, 30 
ft. The other bridge is 45 ft. span ; 
the thickness above the arch, 9 ft. ; and 
the width, 30 ft."— Mrs. Knott. 

The geological explanation of these 
is very simple. All this line of 
cliffs consists of carbonaceous slates, 
which, being soft, are less able to re- 
sist the force of the waves and at- 
mospheric elements. In the case of 
the bridges, some of the lower beds, 
eaten away by the water, have fallen 
in ; and the upper ones, dipping both 
to sea and inland at low angles, have 
formed the natural arch. 

A little higher up, near the ruins 
of Cloghan-sauvaun Castle, there is a 
fine "blow,"' or " puffing-hole," and 
cave. 

The pedestrian who has time at his 
disposal, and does not wish to travel 
S., cannot do better than make an 
excursion up the coast past Ballard 
and Dunbeg to Miltown Malbay (Rte. 
33) and the cliffs of Mohir.] 

Tarbert is 11 m. from Listowel, 
and the road is about as dreary and 
monotonous as any road can be. The 
ground is very high, and there is 
little cultivation or wood to please the 
eye until the river Geale is passed, 
when a long descent opens out a 
pretty view of the . valley of the Feale, 
to 

6 m. Listowel (Hotel: Listowel 
Arms), a small country town on the 
banks of the Feale, which is a noble 
salmon and trout stream, though 
rather late in the season. There is 
nothing to see save a couple of ivy- 
covered towers of the old castle, which 
was the last that held out against 
Elizabeth in the Desmond insurrec- 
tion. 



Conveyances. — Car to Tarbert and 
Tralee. 

Distances. — Tarbert, 11 m. ; Tralee, 
17 ; Abbeyfeale, 10 ; Ballybunion, 9. 

Excursion. 

Ballybunion. 

[A road runs along the banks of 
the Feale to the S.E. to Abbeyfeale, 
in itself a small uninteresting town, 
but situated in the heart of a very 
wild district, at the foot of the Mul- 
laghreirke Mountains.] 

A more pleasant excursion can be 
made from Listowel to the little 
bathing-place of Ballybunion, 9 m. 
distant, the road thereto crossing the 
Galey, a tributary of the Feale. The 
coast at Ballybunion is famous for 
its caves. " The cliffs immediately 
contiguous to the bay extend in nu- 
merous intricate passages, through 
which a boat may pass for a consider- 
able distance parallel with the coast, 
without entering the open sea." The 
largest, known as Neptune's Hall, or 
the Pigeon Cave, is from 70 to 80 ft. 
in height. The visitor should ramble 
up the coast to Doon, where are 
some detached rocks and natural 
arches. The coast was well defended 
in days of yore, as in this short walk 
the ruins of no less than 3 castles 
are visible. 

[Some 7 m. to the S., near the vil- 
lage of Ballyduff, is the ch. and 
round tower of Battoo. The latter 
is 92 ft. in height, and 48 ft. in cir- 
cumference at its base, which is 
placed on a terrace or platform, con- 
nected with a causeAvay, that extends 
in a line opposite its doorway. This 
is semicircular-headed, the arch being 
formed by 3 stones, and ornamented 
with a flat band. The interior of the 
tower is divided into 6 stories, the 
uppermost of which contains windows 
facing the cardinal points.] 

Adjoining Listowel is Ballinad- 
dery (J. Todd, Esq.). The road to 
Tralee is carried over rather high 
ground skirting the Stack and Clan- 
ruddery Mountains, which, though of 
no great height, are wild and desolate 



[ LA\P. 



Route 32. — Tralee— Dingle. 



303 



in appeal-am Save a pretty glen 

through which the road runs, there 

ot much of interest until within 

\ in. of Tralee, where the view 

the Blieve Mish and Dingle Moun- 

3, with the sharp peaks of the 

l; ■ ks rising over them to the L, is 

mely fine, and quite repays a 

dull dri\ 

2] in. Tral Irm: Blennerhasset 
A s, nol good i> the largesl seaport 
ilv in Ki rry, but in the 8.W. of 
I land, and exhibits a considerable 
.1 _ f bustleand animation. The 
of Blennerville is aboul 1 m. dis- 
and is connected with the town 
ship canal, as the Tralee river 
is kably shallow. Tralee is an 

at place, and has been identified 
history and times of the 
1 .1 family; indeed the grave of 

1 is to be 

ut 8 m. to the E, of the town, 
: Little to the N. of the demesne 
M n the road to Castle 

I d. Notwithstanding the* sso- 
& sg - few or no anti- 
remains. Adjoining the town, 
which contains the usual accompani- 
1 1 1 ts of an assize town, are the 
undsofSir Edward Denny, which 
rally thrown open to the inha- 

p v . to,: 

The arena a -: should visit the 
ar i. of B • 38, which p 

characteristic square- 
of ( lyclo] i in ma- 
La built of old red 
. a singular (act when we 
• • ighbourhood eon- 

;' linn ' 

■ - i to Limerick ; 
I rl ; rail to Kilhin 

• Min. 

Killamcv, 22 I . : 'I 
I- 1,11; M ill 
1 J : K ; : :\\u. IT I ,10; 

1 • 27; 1 . I. • 1. 

i ~ 

!. '. 

I I 



4. Gahirconree< 

5. Ratass. 

[Tralee and Castlemaine are the 
northern and southern entrances re- 
spectively into the Promontory of 
Dingle, one of those extraordinary 
prolongations of land which are 
common on the S. and S.W. coasts of 
Ireland from Tralee to Dunmore 
Bead, and from Brandon to Ventry. 
The whole of the promontory is 
occupied by a backbone of moun- 
tains, which attain very consider- 
able heights, and slope precipitously 
down to the seaboard. The best 
way of seeing the promontory will 
be by making the circuit, or as near 
a circuit as the roads will permit, 
The route skirts the 8. shore of the 
bay of Tralee, close at the foot 
of Oahir Conree and Bautregaum, 
which rig abruptly to the heights of 
•j 7 1 : i and2784 ft. A little tarn under 
the rugged escarpments of the former 
mountain gives birth to the Derry- 
ni ore stream, which is crossed at 5 
in. 8 m. at the Finglas river, which 
rises in Caherbla, V.r2G ft., a direct 
id is given off to Dingle, joining 
the S. rood at Anascaul. 13 m. at 
Castle Gregory, a little triangular- 
shaped town at the foot of Beenoski 
2715 ft.,a Bandy promontory is thrown 
out i-» the X. of 4 m. in length, that 
divides the bays of Tralee and Bran- 
don. The tennination of this penin- 
sula, however, is rugged and dan- 
ad is, moreover, guarded by 
cky islands, known 
th, g o H< gs. Brandon Mount, 
with gnincenl clifls, is now the 

principal object in the landscape, 
rising to the great height of 3126 
ft. : lao Btretches out N. and B., 
almosi entirely to fill up the 
r. maining portion of the promontory, 
the sea side particularly the 
precipiot a are tremendous, and de- 
ith such sudden escarpmei 
forbid the approach of any 
.. which is tli. i • -sarily 

flective towards thi B.W., en 
ing ,,\, r to Dingle by a iin« 



304: 



Route 32. — Limerick to Tralee. 



Ireland. 



mountain-pass between Brandon and 
Connor Mountains. As the road 
emerges from the defile, the tourist 
gains exquisite views of Dingle Bay 
and the opposite mountains of Ive- 
ragh. Both Brandon Mount and 
Connor Hill are admirable localities 
for the botanist, many beautiful ferns 
and plants finding a habitation in 
their savage cliffs; amongst others 
Trichomanes radicans, Poa alpina, 
Oxyria reniformis, Sibthorpia Euro- 
paea, Saussurea alpina, Pyrethrum 
maritimum, Saxifraga affinis, S. cses- 
pitosa, S. argentea, and S. geum.] 

27 m. Dingle {Inn : clean and com- 
fortable) is one of the most westerly 
towns in Ireland, and probably one of 
the most wretched, but it is finely situ- 
ated at the foot of Ballysitteragh, 2050 
ft., and at the head of Dingle har- 
bour, a snug, sheltered bay, on the W. 
shore of which are the grounds and 
mansion of Burnham, the seat of Lord 
Ventry, a narrow neck of land, of 
about 1 m. in breadth, separating 
the harbour of Dingle from that of 
Ventry, which is considerably larger, 
though much more exposed to S.W. 
gales. This neck of land is said by 
tradition to have been the very last 
piece of ground occupied by the 
Danes in Ireland. The village is 
situated at the N. of the harbour, 
near the termination of a smooth 
strand. At Fahan, a village a little to 
the W. of Ventry, is the most remark- 
able collection of Beehive ancient 
houses in Ireland. The distance be- 
tween Dingle and the opposite coast is 
so small that a good deal of intercourse 
is carried on between this district and 
that of Iveragh, in which Cahirci- 
veen is situated (lite. 35) ; and the 
tourist who is bound for Valentia 
and Waterville cannot do better than 
sail across, always provided that the 
weather is settled and the wind fair. 
To the W. of Ventry the promontory 
is terminated by Eagle Mountain, 
1695 ft., a fine abrupt hill, ending 
seaward at Dunmore Head. 

The most peculiar features of the 



district are met with in the Blasket 
Islands, that lie off the land, and 
are frightfully ironbound. In the 
Great Blasket the cliff of Slieve 
Donagh, on the N. side, rises 
steeply from the water to a 
height of 967 ft. higher than the 
cliffs of Mohir. Further out is Tear- 
aght Island, a lofty rock of 600 ft., also 
rising out of the water in a similar 
manner to the Skellig (Rte. 35 J ; 
and to the N. of the Blasket is 
Inishtooskert, where are to be seen 
the ruins of St. Brendan's oratory. 

The Dingle promontory has been 
called the key to the geological 
structure of the S. of Ireland. It con- 
tains — 1, Upper Silurians ; 2, Tile- 
stones, with Pentamerus Knightii; 
3, Glengarriff grits ; 4, Dingle beds, 
which latter are really a subor- 
dinate division of the Old Red, 
consisting of red slates and sand- 
stones with thick beds of conglome- 
rate intermixed with pebbles of Sil. 
limestone and fragments of jasper 
and hornstone. Above these are 
red sandstones passing conformably 
into yellow sandstone and carboni- 
ferous shales. The geologist will 
find good Sil. fossils at Ferritor's 
Cove, and some fine sections between 
Sibyl Head and the Slieve Mish 
Mountains, and again from Brandon 
Head to Bull's Head. 

Various legends are in existence 
with respect to the former colonisa- 
tion of the Dingle promontory by the 
Spanish; and 3 m. to the N.W. of 
Ventry is Ferritor's Cove, where, in 
1579, Sanders, the Pope's Nuncio, 
and 80 Spaniards, landed and built a 
fort, which was afterwards garrisoned 
by a party of 700 men. They were, 
however, attacked and massacred by 
the Lord Deputy and Sir Walter 
Raleigh. Several ancient encamp- 
ments are to be seen at Smerwick, 
which is on the W. coast of Smerwick 
Harbour, a fine sheltered bay, bounded 
on the W. by the headland of the 
Three Sisters, and on the E. by the 
rising ground of Brandon Mountain. 



Ireland. 



Route 8*2. — Dingle : Excursions, 



305 



In this neighbourhood is the finest 
range of & i cZi^i in Munsto r, the 
chief elevations being Sibyl Head, 
Sisters, Bally David 
B d, and Bran Ion Head, varying 
fa height from 7<'<» tolOOO ft. "The 
neighbourhood of Smerwick I [arboui' 
unds with the remains of Btone 
- and circular stone housi s, 
ther with ancient oratories ex- 
hibiting only -.in imperfect develop- 
in I ■ Roman mode of construc- 
n, being It of uncemented 
3 admirably fitted to each other, 
ir lateral walls converging 
to th apex in curved 
lines." — P< tru . Theantiquary should 
ut for the oratory oft iallerus, one 
singular of these early re- 
ins. [t - 13 ft. in Length, 
10 ft. in bn adth : while its heig 

»f the roof is 1<> ft., the 

ig formed by the gradual 

ximation of the side walls from 

upwards. It is ent xed 

a squan -headed doorway in the 

W. gal In the graveyard is 

an 1 pillar-stone, with an 

imperfect inscription in the By- 

ntine character, of the 4th or 5th 

it. 

A1 Kilmalkedar, 1 m. distant, is 

ler pillar-stone, in which the 

is perfect ; and also a 

ry int little eh. of 11th or 

12th c< 'it. 

A l ' G 1. 3 in. N.W. of 

1 1 Bome remains of the 

St. Monacha • 1 1 k r 

liar-stone inscribed with 

« >_ in characte] s. 

■ urn from 1 tingle by the 
a finer than on the N.. 

• abrupt- 
hills and the magnificent 

In the 

the village of 

ia>ca' the riv. r ( I iul, 

I 
ady tl the 

< 
S 



The following excursions can be 
recommended from Dingle: — 

1. To the Cliffs at Sibyl Bead, 

which are very tine, and can easily 
be visited by taking a car to Ferrito] 
Cove. Directions for a pedestrian : 
Turn off to the n. alter passing the 
mill at Milltnwn, and procei d by 
Gallerus and across the sands at the 
end of Smerwick Harbour. Return 
by the regular road as far as the 
ruined castle on the top of the hill 
above Ventry; then turn to the 1. 
and keep along an old road which 
leads into the main rond again half- 
way between Ventry and Dingle. 
The distance will be about 20 tn. 

2. To Brandon Head. -Take a car 
to Coosavaddig ( .» m.), from when 

it is a steep climb of 3 or i m. to the 

top of the Head. 

3. Brandon Mountain.— The ascent 
cam be made either from the \V. or 
Ballybrack side, or from the Cloghane 
or E. side. The former is the easiest ; 
but the finest view is obtained by 
the latter route, passing through a 
wild glen with precipices on every 
side. It will be advisable to take a 
guide for this route. 

4. Take a cur to Glenfahan 8 m.), 
then walk round Slea Head to Du i- 
quin, and from thence back to 1 >ing 
by the regular road. There is a 
Bplendid view from the top of the 
hill between Dunquin and Ventry, 
Distance from Glenfahan about 12] 

5. The Coumanare Lakes. — As? 

• mnor Hill ! m. and - 
off to th<' rt., keeping in a 
direction for about 1 m., w 
Lata - b scome visible, may 

mentioned that a nuxul r of arrow- 
heads have b. .1! found on i • m 
Hill. Tradition speak 
•le. 

6. To the Blasquets b; I 
boatmen an exorbitant in their 

7. I i the oppo- 

le of D 1 1 I '/'. 

[A ion in ij b 



306 



Boats 33. — Limerick to Boyle. 



Ireland. 



to Ardfert, 5 m., the seat of W, 
Crosbie, Esq. Here are some of the 
finest remains in the co. of Kerry. 
The see of Ardfert is united with 
that of Limerick. The cathedral 
consists of a nave and choir of E. E. 
date The nave contains 4 cir- 
cular-headed arches, together with 
3 arches supported b}^ square pillars 
leading into a chapel. The choir 
is lighted by a beautiful 3-light win- 
dow of great height, and also, on 
the S. side, by a series of 9 trefoil- 
headed windows. On either side 
the altar are niches, one of them con- 
taining an effigy, supposed to be 
that of St. Brandon, the patron saint. 
To the N.W. of the ch. is the bury- 
ing-place of the Countess of Kerry, 
and now of the Crosbie family. A 
round tower, 120 ft. in height, for- 
merly adjoined the W. front, but it 
fell in 1771. A portion of the 
cathedral has been incorporated with 
the parochial church. Close to the ca- 
thedral are the ruins of an interest- 
ing chapel of 12th cent. Very little 
remains of Ardfert Castle, which was 
finally destroyed in 1641 during 
the wars of that period. Ardfert 
Abbey is the seat of the Crosbie 
family, who have been settled here 
since the re'gn of Elizabeth. With- 
in the grounds are the ruins of 
the Franciscan Abbey, founded in 
the 13th cent, by Thomas, Lord of 
Kerry. They consist of a nave and 
choir, with a tower on the W., a 
chapel on the S., and the refectory 
and cloisters on the N. The choir 
is lighted by 9 windows on the S., 
and also by a, 5-light E. window 
of beautiful design. It contains 
5 monumental recesses underneath 
the windows. The S. chapel is sepa- 
rated from the nave by 3 pointed 
arches with round piers : on one is 
an inscription to the effect that 
Donald Fitz Bohen completed the 
chapel in 1453. The window of the 
chapel is particularly good. Some few 
miles to the N.W. of Ardfert is Bally- 
lieigue, the seat of Major Crosbie.] 



ROUTE 33. 

FROM LIMERICK TO BOYLE, THROUGH 
ENNIS AND TUAM. 

Limerick, anc. Luimneach (Hotel: 
Cr use's, good), combines the as- 
sociations of one of Ireland's his- 
torical cities with the improvements 
of modern towns, and may be said to 
be almost the neatest and best built 
of any place in the kingdom. (Pop. 
44,408.) Like most of the Irish sea- 
ports it was originally inhabited in 
great force by the Danes, who were 
expelled by Brian Boroimhe when he 
assumed the sovereignty over Mun- 
ster and Thomond, Limerick thus 
becoming the royal city of the Mun- 
ster kings. After passing through the 
usual stages of intestinal native war, 
its next important epoch was marked 
by the erection of a strong fortress by 
King John, who committed the care 
of it to the charge of William de 
Burgh ; and from that time, with a 
few intervals of check, it steadily 
gained in importance until the reign 
of Elizabeth, when it was made the 
" centre of civil and military ad- 
ministration." But the great episode 
in the history of Limerick took place 
during the wars of William and 
James, when the events occurred 
which fastened on it the name of 
the " City of the Violated Treaty." 
After the. fall of Athlone and Gal- 
way,Tyrconnel, the Lord Lieutenant, 
still held Limerick as the last strong- 
hold that King James possessed, 
the city having been previously 
unsuccessfully assaulted by the Eng- 
lish in 1690. A fit of apoplexy 
carried off Tyrconnel, when the 
government, both civil and mili- 
tary, fell into the hands of D'Usson 
and Sarsfield. Ginkell, the English 
commander, endeavoured to take the 
town by an attack on the fort which 
overlooked and protected the Tho- 



fREI V\K 



Route 33, — Limerick. 



307 



I Bi idge. " In a short time the 
- storan d. The Boldiers who 
. rrisoned it fled in confusion 
t" the city. The Town Major, a 
I ich ofific( r, who commanded al 
Thomond Gate, afraid thai the 
u< rs would enter with the fugi- 
rder< d that ] art of the bridge 
ch was ii( aresl to the city to be 
drawn up. Many of the [rish went 
dlong into the stream and perished 
< >th< rs cried for quarter, and 
held up tl eir handkerchiefs in token 
3ion. But the conquerors 
i with rage, their cruelty 
could aot be immediately restrained, 
and do prisoni rs \\« re made till the 
= - above the 

I I rison of the fort 

d of about 800 nun. 
only I scaped into Li- 
lulay. 
It of ipture was the 

fall r in Linn rick, 

ami indi d in Lr< land, and the sign- 
famous in atyon the stone 
• <>n 3rd Oct. 1691, 
of which provided 
R >man ( Catholics should 
Die priviL gres of their 
enjoyed in the r( ign 
I id thai William and 
would endeavour to ensure 
I immunity from disturbance 

it of th< ir religion. This 
- Q< ver carried 
I e city ha r since 

Hon fora large quantity of 
: sent day one 

bustling and pleasant 

in a broad plain, 
. and backed 
upii ( 

K riv. r, which booh 

rolls in a n 

ugh 
rids 

<• .ill. d 

with • 

known as 



portion of which is built the English 
Town, united to the mainland by "► 
bridges, and containing the most 
ancient buildings. In contradis- 
tinction is the Erish Town, which 
Lies to the S. of it, and more in the 
direction of the rly. station. These >> 
districts comprised the fortified old 
town. Up to Edward EI.'s time <'idy 
the English Town had been defended 
by walls, but these were subsequently 
extended so as to include Irish Town, 

which was entered by St. John's (.ate. 

Newton Pery, the district between 
this and the river, was then hare, 
but, having come into the pos- 
n of the Pery family, it was 
speedily built upon, and is now 
equal to any city in Ireland for the 
breadth and cleanliness of its streets. 
Of Vm>v the principal is George 
Street, a handsome thoroughfare of 
marly a mile in length, giving off 
others on each side at right angles, 
and adorned with a statue of O Cou- 
ncil at the end of it. There is also 
to the N. a monument to the memory 
of Lord Monte agle. 

The Shannon is crossed by 3 
bridges, of which the Thomond 
Bridge, rebuilt in 1839, claims 
priority from its ancient associations. 
It connects English Town with the 
Co. Clare, the entrance from which, 
through Thomond Gate, was pro- 
t« ci d by I be fori mention* d above, 
. nd Kin-- John a Castle. < hi the N.. 
or Clare Bide, the stone is still to 
be » en on which was signed the 
treaty of L691. Wi lh sley Bridge 
eoniH cts Newtown Perj with the 

a 1 from Limerick to Ennis. It is 
a fine mod. in bridge of 5 elliptic 
9, with an o] en balustrade, and 
having b swivel on the city side, so 
that the Shannon navigation might 
in. t be inn rfered R ith. At hhmkard 
dso consisting of "» arch< 9, 

ly be .-aid to be in t. 

: it connects the V I •'.. Bubtu 
Killalo id. I; 

me minor 

0,,!ii. 



308 



Route 33. — Limericlc to Boyle. 



Ireland. 



New Bridge continues the main 
street into English Town ; and Baels 
(pronounced Bawls) Bridge, connects 
English and Irish Towns, at the 
spot where the Lock Mills Canal, 
cutting off a long reach of the Shan- 
non, falls in. This bridge replaced 
in 1831 an older one called the Tide 
Bridge in maps of the time of Eliza- 
beth, and which was washed away 
by an unusually high tide in 1775, 
together with several houses that 
projected over the water. The origin 
of the name is supposed by some to 
be "Bald" Bridge, being so called 
in Latin documents (pons calvus) 
because it had no battlements ; others 
think it was Boyle's Bridge, as form- 
ing part of the grant made to Boyle, 
Earl of Shannon. 

The 2 principal objects of inte- 
rest are the castle and cathedral, 
both close together in the English 
Town. The former still retains the 
massive gateway and strong drum 
towers which characterised the 
fortresses of the early English 
settlers ; but its venerable appearance 
is marred by the addition of the mo- 
dem roofs and buildings of the 
barracks into which the interior has 
been converted. 

The cathedral is still under pro- 
cess of restoration, but fortunately, 
is under judicious hands, and is not 
modernised like the castle. Although 
said to have been originally built by 
Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick, 
in the 12th cent., it has been so often 
added to and altered, that little, if 
any, of the old edifice is in existence. 

The plan of, the ch. is not cruci- 
form but 3-aisled, with a fine tower 
rising directly from the W. end. A 
battlement runs along the aisles ex- 
ternally, and the angles of the tower 
are finished off with Irish stepped 
turrets. Internally the arrangement 
is singular. The aisles are sub- 
divided both lengthways and cross- 
ways, so as to form a series of 
chapels. Immediately on the rt. of 
the entrance porch is one containing 



the tombs of the Earls of Limerick, 
and adorned with some good stained 
glass and an illuminated ceiling. A 
chapel in the N. aisle contains the 
organ,* and an early mural inscrip- 
tion under some trefoil-headed arches; 
In the chance], which is lighted by 
an E. E. window with stained glass, is 
an elaborate marble monument of 
different colours to the Earl of TLo- 
moncl, which we are told in the epitaph 
suffered great defacement in the 
rebellion, and was subsequently re- 
stored by the Earl of Limerick. On 
S. side of the altar is an ambry 
lighted by a circular painted window. 
The nave is divided from the side 
aisles by 3 plain Early Pointed arches, 
and there is a triforium with plain 
round-headed arches. Tiie tower 
should be ascended for the sake of 
the view, which is very charm- 
ing, embracing a wide expanse of 
the Shannon, and the plain through 
which it flows, the hills in the neigh- 
bourhood of Castle Clare, Mount 
Keeper and the Killaloe hills ; while 
the foreground is occupied with the 
antique -looking English Town, the 
modern city, and the busy harbour. 
A pretty story is told about the bells, 
viz. that they were made by an 
Italian, and of such exceeding sweet 
ness that he was very proud of them, 
and sold them to a convent. In 
course of time troubles came upon the 
religious house, so that it was broken 
up, and the bells carried off to distant 
lands. The Italian, whose fortunes 
shared in the general wreck, wa£ 
driven from his home, and became a 
wanderer. Chance brought him to 
the Shannon and to Limerick, when 
the first sound that greeted him a^ 
he sailed up the river was from hi,' 
own bells, the pride and joy of his 
heart. Such pleasure was too great 
for the heartbroken exile, who was 
found by the boatmen dead ere they 
got to the landing-place. The visitor 
should not omit to ramble through 

* The service on Sunday is choral, and re- 
markably well done. 



i.wn. 



Rout* 33. — Limerick. 



309 



*n-looking streets of English 
xu. although ii must be confessed 
inhabitants thereof are 
bo attractive nor orderly as in 
>th< r districts. The other objects 
of interest in Limerick are of a civil 
military character: the latter 
unbracing 4 large barracks; the 
ier, tin Excl ange, County Court- 
a Merchants' Quay, gaol, 
and ' infirmary founded by the 
u family in L829. The 
tourist ahould visit the new B. 0. 
I . and the ch. of the Re- 

designed by P. C. Hard- 
its noble situation on 
inon, Limerick has Long 
oded a prosperous trade, and 
dd, from its proximity to the At- 
uently to America, 
principal Ameri- 
i k and Galway, how- 
itors for the 
r. •• , or ex- 

»ut L600 yards in length 
in br< adth, with from 2 to 
low water, and 19 at spring 
I - : which latt< r enables ves 

moor at the quays. The 
and wharfage extend 1600 

si 18, ! /. The com- 

I port I osiderably 

ud will l>o greatly berj - 

ting doc] n- 

:» 1,0001. : 

Ly a v. 8» 1 

to it, there are now 105 

hi 1835 the expoi 
'()/.. in 1842 upwards of 
. - Thorns. 
T D of 1 

ed here by an enter- 
inn, Messrs. 1 ; . wh< 

i .,1' WV1- 

.. 1- 

of 

mp< r : glovi 
e thai ;i 
will ; i :i weddii 

1- i I up in 

fot which 



of 



rasl mi 

Linv 



indeed the town lias been as famous 
as Honiton or Valenciennes, TJ 
principal establishment is that oi 
Messrs. Forresi at tic corner <>! 
Glentworth Street, where several 
hundred females are constantly em- 
ployed. The laee factories are not 
Open to public inspection, and the 

visitor will regret it the less as no 
machinery whatever is employed, 
all the work b< ing done by hand 
on frames or patterns. Some of the 
varieties, especially that known 
( iuipure, are extremely beautiful, and 
often fetch very high prices. Last, 
but not hat. Limerick i> famous for 
the beauty o\' its women, a reputa- 
tion not undeserved, as may he .-eeii 
( \( D by a casual stroll through the 

city. 

Conveyances. — Kail to Ennis; to 
Waterford; to Cork direct, also by 
Linn rick Junction; to Killaloe; to 
Foym 3. Steamer to Liverpool 
weekly. Car daily to Bruff; to 
Ennis; to Killaloe; to Kilmallock : 
to Scarili; to Tippcrary ; to Tulla ; 
to Traleo. 

Distances. — Castle Connell, 10 m. ; 
Killaloe, 17 : Bunratty, 12 ; Ennis, 25 ; 
Clare Castle, 23; Adare, 11 ; A 
ton, 21 : Rathkeale, 17 ; Foynes, 26; 
Kilrush, t:'»: Tipperary, 25; Charle- 
ville, 26 : Mungret Abbey, 3, 

Excursions. — 

1. Killaloe ami Ca>tle Connell. 

2. Bunratty. 

:;. (.' uTig-a-gunnelL 

1. Tarh. rt. 

5. Adare. 

Quitting the terminus, which 
for all the 5 rlys. thai h ave Limerick, 

the line to Kmiis BOOH hianela a 

in the h. and passu] canal 

wi >mph telj round one half I 

ni, crossing the 81 annon by a Long 
v brid I abov( I "t win 

the A hh \ R •. • r 

little Esland 

, Q Hon I line 

thi N '■■ 

the neigh- 
\ 1 I ! 



310 



Route 33. — Limerick to Boyle. 



Ireland. 



keeping the noble estuary of the 
Shannon well in view on the 1. 

Near Cratloe Stat., on rt., is 
Cratloe Wood, and nearer to the 
river the remains of three castles 
or fortified mansions, viz. Cratloe, 
Cratloe-keel, and Castle Donnell. 

2 m. 1. from the station, at 
the mouth of the Bunratty River, 
is the fine old fortress of Bun- 
ratty, once the residence of the Earls 
of Thomond, and now a police 
barrack. Thackeray in his ' Irish 
Sketch-book ' spins an irresistible 

3 volume novel (in 2 pages) respect- 
ing this fortress, commencing with 
the description — " It is a huge square 
tower, with 4 smaller ones at each 
angle ; you mount to the entrance 
by a steep flight of steps, being com- 
manded all the way by the crossbows 
of 2 of the Lord De Clare's retainers, 
the points of whose weapons may be 
seen lying upon the ledge of the 
little narrow meurtriere on each side 
of the gate. A venerable seneschal, 
with the keys of the office, presently 
opens the little back postern, and 
you are admitted to the great hall, a 
noble chamber, pardi ! some 70 ft. in 
length and 30 high. 'Tis hung 
round with 1000 trophies of war 
and chase," &c. A modern house 
has been built in the demesne by T. 
Studdert, Esq. The anchorage at 
the mouth of the Bunratty is so 
safe that American vessels for Li- 
merick always discharged their cargo 
here. 

13 m. Six Mile Bridge Stat, and 
Newmarket Fergus, the town being 
about 1 m. 1. of the stat. To the N. of 
it is Dromoland Castle, the very hand- 
some seat and extensive domain of 
Lord Inchiquin, and between it and 
the rly. are some large earthworks. 

At 20 m. Ardsollus, the line crosses 
the river of the same name, which 
on rt. flows past the little town of 

Quin (anc. Cuinche), celebrated 
for possessing one of the best pre- 
served abbeys in Ireland. It is 
of Dec. date, having been built 



at the commencement of the 15th 
cent, by one MacCann Dall Mac- 
namara, Lord of Glencoillan. It 
consists of a nave and chancel, sur- 
mounted by a graceful tower rising 
at the junction of the two, and built 
upon the gable ends. There is also a 
chapel to the S. of the choir, con- 
taining the sculptured figure of a 
saint. In the choir is the high 
altar, and the monument of the 
family of Macnamara of Ranee, also 
a representation of the Crucifixion in 
stucco. Amongst those buried here 
is Macnamara, the duellist (who 
obtained the soubriquet of "Fire- 
ball), together with another gentle- 
man, who fell in a quarrel with him. 
Two lovers also, who were drowned 
in the adjoining river, were interred 
here in the same grave ; from which, 
as in the Border ballads, a brier 
and an elder-tree have grown inter- 
twined. The visitor will notice the 
signs of the dead person's calling 
on many of the tombstones. " The 
cloister is of the usual form, with 
couplets of pillars, but is particular 
in having buttresses round it by 
way of ornament. There are apart- 
ments on 3 sides of it, the re- 
fectory, dormitory, and another room 
to the N. of the chancel, with a 
vaulted room under them all." 

An unusual number of ruined 
castles lie within a reasonable distance 
of Quin : such as Bally markah an, 
Corbally, and, Dangan, the latter a 
quadrangular tower, flanked by round 
towers at the angles, said to be the 
oldest fortress in Munster. There 
are also some pleasant seats in the 
neighbourhood, viz., Moyriesk (J. F. 
Vesey Fitzgerald, Esq.); Knappogue, 
"Kiss on the Hill," the restored 
residence of Lord Dunboyne; Cullanc, 
which originally belonged to Steele, 
the friend of O'Connell ; Dangan 
House, and Lough O'Connell, on 
the banks of a considerable sheet of 
water which rejoices in the name of 
Callannyhuda. « 

5 m. from Quin, and about 2 from 



Ikel \xp. 



Route 33. — Ennis — Clare Abbey. 



311 



Tulla. is the " Toomeens," an ex- 
dingly curious bit of river 
aery, in which tin* stream, flow- 
ing through the estates of Kiltarnan 
J. Molony, Esq.), ami that of T. 
O'Callaghan, Esq., of Maryfort, 
passes through a 9< ries of limestone 
archt 3, n\ ii h occasional apertui 
like very st< ep railway euttin 

23 m. ( ( >ae£L . Here we have 
thi /" s, a broad river that flows 
into the Shannon, and is navigable 

tar as (lair. from which a very 

large amount of grain i- Bhippedin 
the course of the year. On an 
bland in the bed of the river is the 
ruin of the castle, connected by a 
idge with eitm r side of the hank. 
A • A\ ("lair J' S8 3806 such mani- 

it has been passed 
in ■' by 

/' s Hotels: i Ly's; Bren- 

. a i[Ucer little town, with nar- 

s >tn i ts, or rather lam s, filled with 

ign-looking people. 

Pop. 717'). Ii- modern attractions 

art good classic Courthouse, 

built of grey marble, and a column 

memory of Daniel 

O'Cunnell, the Great Liberator. In 

it. ii >r of the Court-house is a 

i the memory of Sir Michael 

OX »ughlin, one of the county m 

I antiquities are more inl 

g. Ennis, under the name of 

I Lg hum ruadha, was famous for its 

t of learning and its Franciscan 

m< - imded by the famih of 

O l ■ . who were prino - of Tho- 

*nd. T tterb now incorporated 

with tip eli., and pr< sents a curious 

mixt ra building with ivy- 

-. A liie ."»-] _• I Early 

i' I window Mill exists al the 

i. . and in the interior of the 

eh. is ■ Abbot's chair, "which, 

with t is highly sculpturi d 

with I - in r. Ii. 

A 1 in. frnin 1 . c] -• t • 

1 

121 • ■•• nt., 
I ' oald ■ K f Li- 



merick. It is like all the others, a 
very graceful cruciform oh., with a 

lofty tower, that from the nature of 

its situation is visible from a great 
distance. 

[3 m. to S. of the town is a 
third ruined abbey, that of Killone, 

which has the attraction of an ex- 
tremely pretty situation on the banks 

Killone Lough. This was founded 
at the same time as Clare by a 
daughter of O'Brien, who "excelled 
all the women in Minister for piety, 
almsdeeds, and hospitality." On the 
■ I to it from Ennis is Cahirculla 
House, Beech-park Marcus Keane, 
Esq. . Edenvale R. Stacpoole, Esq. , 
a very romantic spot, and Newhall 
Major Armstrong-MacdonnelJ >.] 

Distances. — Limerick, 25 in.; 
I stle Clare, 2: Gort, 19; Lough 
Cooter, 15; Miltown Malbay, 20; 
Kilfenora, 17 ; Dysert, 2. 

Conveyances.— Haj] to Limerick. 
Car to Gort and Galway; car to 
Miltown Malbay. 

Excursions, — 

1. Miltown Malbay. 

2. Kilfenora. ^^ 

3. Dysert and Corrofin. 

[Ennis is the best starting-point 
for Miltown Malbay, 20 m., a little 
village on the coast, which has of 
late years become a fashional 
waterimr-plaoe. especially for the 
Galway and Limerick residen 
The Atlantic is a tolerable hotel. 
The village itself is poor and wretched, 
but the scenery oi the cliffe of ( 1 
will make amends for many short- 

- in the way of accommo 
tion. About halt waj from Ennis the 

<\ approaches the ranges of the 
dare Mountains, which, although not 
in reality very Lofty, are a fine r< li- f 
t<» the oth< rwise monotonous land- 

pe. Blieve ( <allan< rises to I 
height oi L282 ft., and pn » uts the 
appearance of a flat-topped hill \\ itfa 
terraced rid This hill. t< _ 
with the whole of this district, 000- 
•logically of the upper Lin 
an asun s, •• while the a al-nn a- 



312 



Route 33. — Limerick to Boyle, 



Ireland. 



sures, consisting of softer but tougher 
materials, form higher land, which 
ends in a continuous and rather steep 
escarpment. On examining the posi- 
tion of the rocks near these escarp- 
ments, it is at once evident that the 
limestone rises up to the surface from 
beneath the coal-measures, and that 
the beds of the latter end abruptly at 
the escarpment. It is clear that this 
abrupt termination of so great a 
thickness of beds can only be due to 
the fact that the former continuation 
of these beds has been cut off and 
removed by the action of denuda- 
tion." 

On the S.E. side of Slieve Callane 
is a cromlech, "consisting of 3 im- 
mense stones ; 2 of them pitched on 
end, and the 3rd laid incumbent on 
these. The latter measures 12 ft. in 
length by 4 in breadth; the others 
are each 10 ft. in length, 8 broad, and 
1 thick ; 2 more lie extended on the 
ground, closing when erect, the ex- 
tremities of the crypt, which the 
whole structure formed when com- 
plete." — Windele. This cromlech is 
celebrated for containing an Ogham 
inscription, first discovered in 1784. 

About 2 m. 1. of the road at Hand- 
cross is Lough Doo, a solitary sheet 
of water surrounded by hills. The 
principal attraction at Miltown Mal- 
bay is the scenery of the coast, which 
is very fine, although, as the name of 
Malbay implies, it has proved very 
dangerous to shipping. The geologist 
should ramble along the rocks to the 
S. A little below Kilmurry the river 
Annageragh flows into the sea through 
the lagoon of Lough Donnell, which 
is defended from the tide by a bed of 
shingle 29 ft. high. To the N. of 
Spanish Point, near the old ruin of 
Freagh Castle, is a very remarkable 
Blowing or Puffing Hole. 

7 m. to the N. of Miltown Malbay 
is Lehinch, from whence a road di- 
\ rges inland for 2 m. to 

Em ' 'sty man, a prettily - situated 
little town on the Inagh river, 
which, below the bridge, falls over a 



ledge of rocks in a cascade. On the 
N. bank is Ennistymon House, the 
residence of Col. Macnamara. Con- 
tinuing over an expanse of sandy 
dunes, and crossing the Inagh near 
the ruined tower of Dough, the 
tourist arrives at Liscannor, at the 
head of Liscannor Bay, where there 
is another square tower, formerly the 
residence of the O'Connors. 

Soon after passing 11 m. rt. Birch- 
field (G. O'Brien, Esq.) the road 
reaches the promontory of Hag's Head, 
the commencement of the famous Cliffs 
of Moher, which run for 5 m. with a 
sheer precipice wall of 600 ft. Al- 
though not nearly as high as the 
cliffs of Croghan in Achill, or Slieve 
League in Donegal, which is nearly 
2000 ft., the cliffs of Moher form some 
of the most sublime objects of the west- 
ern coast, and when seen in rough 
weather, with the huge waves of the 
Atlantic dashing in showers of spray 
over them, are a sight never to be 
forgotten. The view is magnificently 
extensive, embracing the whole of 
the coast from the Loop Head in the 
S., to Black Head in the Bay of 
Gal way, while the 3 Aran Islands 
are conspicuous in the N.W. A 
very good road runs the whole 
length of the cliffs, in addition to 
which Mr. O'Brien of Birchfield has 
erected a tavern and hotel for the ac- 
commodation of the tourist. At Doo- 
lin, should the visitor not elect to 
follow the road up to Black Head, he 
may return to Ennis through 

Kilfenora (anc. Cill-fronnabrach), 
which was formerly a place of im- 
portance, and is even now the seat 
of a bishopric united to that of Kil- 
laloe. In the ch., which has a 
massive square tower, is a monu- 
mental effigy, supposed to be that of 
the founder, St. Fachnan. Kilfenora 
was celebrated for the number of its 
crosses, of which 2 only now remain. 

5 m. from Kilfenora the traveller 
approaches the Fergus, a little before it 
falls into the Inchiquin Lough. At 
this spot are various remains of anti- 



Ireland. 



Unite 33. — Qoti —KUmacduagh. 



313 



• jiiity : the stump <^( a round tower 

■in 1<> it. high ; the towerof the old 

stle, which is said to have (Mire 

• n th. residen the Deans of 

Kilfenora : the ruins of a ch. and 

on a rock by tin* 

id-sid< . ■• Qsisting of a shaft with 

two arms curving upwards, on each 

which near the top is ;> head 

I in relief, and in the a ntre 2 

ads clasped; this was erected in 

mory of tlie reconciliation of 2 

as who had been long in violent 

»f Inebiquin, for- 
jid< nee of th< < ►'Quins, 

it 1 '; il of Dun- 
he r< | . ■■, and which 
family of < >T>i ien, 
northern of Lou| 
I ;nt ly pr< tty little 
I on the W. b} of 
( ha the same ride b 
lelphi \V. I I, Esq. and 
I Burton, Esq. . 
- m. ( a am yed 
d the r , gus, midway 
I [nchiquin and 
m. About 1 in. to the X.E., 
' Jort, is tl square 
lyjK.my, in b tt< t pre- 
the ( lare 
agh 1 1- -u-< 
tiny ( ml 
'. the old ch. of 
nit of 

I " 1 tower about 

door 20 ft. in in 
I i iii 1 1 * <1 castle t 

! l 1 1 

I ] 

I i < . 

_ tlirougb a w : 
try, ! . .1 

_r_:y hih 'ly 

I rly. ;u- 

with 
• 
1 > 

1 

H '. : 

I I 



large lough to the 1., prettily wooded 
on the X. by the d< mesne of Dromore 
T. Crowe, Esq.). 

33 m. Crusheen. 

There is a pretty hit of English 
scenery at V>~ ni., where the road 
passes the estates of Bunnahow (W, 
Butler, Esq.) and Cregg (A. Har- 
nett, Esq.), affording, with its wood 
and pleasantly shaded trout-stream 
an agreeable variation from the mono* 
tonous expanse all around. 

:;;».'. in. is the gateway of Lough 
iter Castle (Hon. G. 's. Gough 
through the grounds of which the 
coach is frequently driven, by the 
pei mission of its owner. It is a pretty 
modem castellated house, most charm* 
ingly situated <>n the W. shore of 
1. ugh Cooter, the largest lake in th» 
s. of Galway, The views between 
the wooded islands, most of which 
are tenanted by a ruined ch. or castle, 
are lovely. The river between the 
lake and Gort has a portion of its 
course underground. 

43 m. Gort (Tun : Royal Mail), a 
neat, clean-looking little town, of one 
square, or father triangle, with 3 or 4 
- Leading out of it. There is 
nothing to see in it, and the traveller 
will be disposed to agree with the 
author of the ' Irish Sketch-book, 1 
who remarks u that it s. « med i<> l> 
itself considerably, had nothing to do, 
and no socii ty." But in the <i. 
when the cavalry barracks were te- 
nanted, ( Jort was considerably li\t 1. 
than it i> now. 

[The antiquary should visit Kih 
macdu; gh, '.'> m. from ( tori to the 
S W. 1 1 Lman, bod of 1 hiach, 

founded b b r \\ hich he himself 

sided, in the 7th cent. In 16< 
however, it was held together with 
that of < Slonfert, and eventually 
became m< into Killaloe. The 

ch. was built for St ( iolman by hi* 
kinsman Guaine Aidhne, King of 
I onaught, and is n markable foe 

1 clopi :m doorway now cloa d up , 

ft 6 in. in height, and in \\ idth 

2 _ . I the top, an 2 in. at 



3U 



Route 33. — Limericlc to Boyle. 



Ireland. 



the bottom. The lintel-stone, which 
extends the entire thickness of the 
wall, is 5 ft. 8 in. long, 1 ft. 9 in. high, 
and 3 ft. wide." 

This doorway was closed up with 
rubble masonry in the 14th or 15th 
cent., when the ch. was rebuilt and 
considerably enlarged, and a new 
doorway in the Pointed style placed, 
as was usual in that age, in the S. 
Avail. 

The round tower, which is remark- 
able for leaning out of the perpen- 
dicular some 17 ft., is considered to 
be of the same age as the ch., viz. the 
commencement of the 7th cent., and 
is stated by the traditions of the 
country to have been the work of 
Gobhan Saer, the architect of Antrim 
and Glendalough towers. 

The doorway is 26 ft. from the 
ground, and is semicircular-headed, 
the arch being formed by cuttings in 
the horizontal stones.] 

The drive from Gort to Oranmore 
is across such a bleak and desolate 
country that the traveller will invo- 
luntarily long for the railway and its 
happy powers of shortening unin- 
teresting distances. The whole of 
the district is of the shallow-soiled 
limestone rock for which Galway is 
so famous ; stones eveiy where, in the 
walls, the roads, the hills, the plains, 
and the fields; all one unmitigated 
sheet of grey monotony, only relieved 
by the distant hills of Clare. At 
45 m. 1. the scenery is a little im- 
proved by the demesnes of Goole (W. 
Gregory, Esq.) and Rabeen (S. Lop- 
dell Esq.). 

50 m. Ardraban, some 8 m. to the 
W. of which, between Kinvarra and 
Black Head, are the ruins of the 
Cistercian Abbev of Corcomroe, which 
contain interesting details of the 
beginning of the 13th cent. The 
tourist should notice the ornamenta- 
tion and human heads sculptured on 
the capitals of the arches, similar to 
Hiose found at St. Saviour's Ch., 
Glendalough. 

54 \ m. Kilcolgan, to the 1. of which 



is Tyrone House, the beautiful seat 
of Christopher St. George, Esq., the 
owner of immense property in Galway 
and Mayo. On the N. the grounds 
run along the shore of Kilcolgan 
River, a small arm of the Atlantic, 
which on this part of the coast pushes 
in an immense number of little creeks 
and bays. 

A little further on is Clarin Bridge, 
to rt. of which is Kilcornan (Sir T. 
Redington). 

At 59 m. Oranmore (Rte. 14), an 
arm of Galway Bay breaks prettily into 
the scene. On 1. is the old castle of 
Oranmore, a massive square tower by 
the water's edge. This fortress was 
in 1641 placed by the Earl of Clan- 
ricarde under the command of Capt. 
Willoughby, who surrendered it to 
the Catholic forces. 

The traveller northward will here 
leave the coach which goes to Gal- 
way, and betake himself not unwill- 
ingly to the Midland Great Western 
Rly., which passes through equally 
dreary scenery to 

Athenry, Ath-na-Riogh (Rte. 14) 
(Hotel : Railway), from whence a 
branch line is given off to Tuam. 
The rly. passes rt. and 1. the de- 
mesnes of Castle Ellen (W. P. Lam- 
bert, Esq.), Belleville (Major Mahon), 
and Bingarra House (A. Clarke, 
Esq.). 

On rt. is Monivea, a small town, 
almost entirely surrounded by the 
grounds of Monivea Castle, the resi- 
dence of Robert French, Esq. 

9 m. Bally glunin Stat., adjoining 
Ballyglunin House (M. Blake, Esq.), 
through the grounds of which flows 
a small stream, called the Abbert 
river. 

[2 m. to the rt. are the remains 
of Abbey Knockmoy (anc. Croc- 
Muaidhe), so celebrated for its fres- 
coes. In 1189 Cathol O'Connor, 
sur named Crorre-Dearg, or the Red 
Hand, King of Connaught, obtained 
a victory over the English forces 
under Almeric St. Lawrence, and to 
commemorate it founded the abbey of 



LAND. 



Boute 33. — Mount Bellcic — Tuam. 






Muaidhe, or the Hill ofSlaugh- 
The nave is short and plain, 
but the chief interest is in the choir, 
win iv are the tomb of the founder 
and the fresa x s, " ( >ver the tomb of 
Oathol is represented the taking down 
S iviour from the cross. Nearer 
to the altar, and on a large compart- 
ment of the wall, are 2 designs. The 
upper represents 6 figures clothed in 
h and flowing robes ; the one in the 
middle is said to be Roderic O'Connor, 
march of Ireland; on either side 
I ; inc s, I sals ; one holds a 

i his thumb, the other a 
•rd. \\ low this is a man sitting 
;h what appears to be a roll of 
per in his hand. Co his right is a 
ian fixed to a to e, and trans- 
with arrovi -. and '1 archers are 
id tl. of shooting more at him. 

I' I that the youth represents 

M ' -,i, son of the King of 

1 . trayed Ireland to the 

glish, and that Rodeiick Q Connor 
outh to this talc in 
Other's treason." — 
I 3 of the kings 

the 12th a nt.. and these 
•nsidered, by competent 
ians, to have been the work 
of tl.. 1 I nt. These singular 

re East disappearing, and 
mug t«> the stone vaulting 
th< y have be< d pre- 
- ] 

[ T rly., on (ill ok 

If. 
1 Abb • J. Blast - 
. 

•,10 in. rt., I'- 
ll Iak .1 I . or the 
ilh; which 
illuminated by pk< 

It 

repul with 

di in 

M 

of the 
SLiven, Us in! 



Suck. Mount Bellew i> the resides 

of the family of Bellew. 

w 

From hence the traveller may pn - 

oeed to Roscommon, through Blount 
Talbot and Athleague.] 

After leaving BaUyglunin Slat.. 
the round lhll of Knocknaa becom 
visible on the W., and soon after- 
wards the towers and buildings of 

l .V. Hi. 'l'n, nu [Hotel: Daly's, very 
bad), a place of considerable an- 
tiquity, was originally a seligious 
establishment, founded in the Gth 
cent, by si. Jarlath, and from that 
time to this has ever maintained a high 
station in the ecclesiastical polity «-i 
Ireland. At one time it was the scat 
of a Protestant archbishop, but of 
late years it has been altered to a 
bishopric, the see comprising with 
Tuam the diocese of Achonry. It 
i- also the head-quarters of \ 
R. 0. Archbishop, Dr. McHale,, wi 
whose <(liets all readers of Irish 
politic- arc familiar. The town 
itself is small and not particu- 
larly interesting, with the excep- 
tion of one or two objects of anti- 
quity which no tourist should omit. 
They are' the cathedral and t 
cross. The former, which is also the 
parish eh., is a .-mall, unimpr 
building, though a large amount 
del. ct is covered by the W, door, 
magnificent a specimen of anci< 
Norman work as any building in 
< rn at Britain can boast. Ii is built 
of red Bandst >ne, altogether foreign 
that district. Tin- date of this door- 
way, which formed part of the chancel 
of the old <-h.. is somewhere betw< 
1 128, when < t'Hoisin fcx came abb 
and 1 l."»o. when he was made ar< 
bishop. I )f the ancient eh. nothing 
bat the chancel remains, " its l .. 
end 1- ing p rforated by '•> circular- 
h- adV d w indows, ornann ot d v. ith 

ad other mould] both - 
n rnally and internally, and 

I with each other by stringcoun 
mouldingB, in which the i xternal oi 

enrich) d w ith j Dm the 

of the chano 1 i 
i 2 



31G 



Route 33. — Limericlc to Boyle. 



IPwELAND. 



triumphal arch, erroneously supposed 
to have been a doorway, composed 
externally of G semicircular concentric 
and recessed arches. The shafts of 
the columns, which, with the excep- 
tion of the outermost at each side, 
are semicircular, are unornamented, 
but their capitals, which are rectan- 
gular, on a semicircular torus, are 
very richly sculptured, chiefly with a 
variety of interlaced traceries, and in 
2 instances, those of the jambs, with 
grotesque human heads. The arch 
mouldings consist of the nebule, 
diamond frette, and varieties of the 
chevron, the execution of which is 
remarkable for its beauty." — Petrie. 
Preparations have already been begun 
for rebuilding the cathedral, when 
this masterpiece of architecture will 
be restored to its former position. 
The cost of restoration of the ch. is 
estimated at 10,000Z. 

The cross of Tuam, also of sand- 
stone, once broken into 3 pieces, and 
the property of 3 different owners, is 
now happily re-united and re-erected. 
The base contains inscriptions in 
memory of O'Hoisin, the abbot, and 
Turlough O'Connor, King of Con- 
naught. In proportion to the plainness 
of the Protestant cathedral the Roman 
Catholic ch. is elaborate. It is a fine 
cruciform Perp. building, though un- 
satisfactory from its excessively florid 
ornamentation. " The walls are 
strengthened with panelled buttresses 
of several stages, terminating in richly 
erocketed pinnacles rising above the 
parapet, which is enriched with open 
tracery." The interior of the cathedral, 
though very .expensively decorated, 
has no solemnity or impressive effect 
about it. 

Excursions. — 

1. Knockmoy. 

2. Headford and Ross Abbey. 
Conveyances. — Rail to Athenry. Car 

to Headford. 

Distances. — Athenry, 15J m. ; 
Knockmoy, 11; Dunmore, 9; Head- 
lord, 13, [the road to which place runs 



at the base of Knock-naa, "the Hill 
of Failles," which, from the flatness of 
the country round, is seen for a very 
long distance, being a conspicuous 
object even from Lough Comb. At 
the foot is Castle Hacket, the seat of 
D. Kirwan, Esq.]. 

At 24^ m. rt. Dunmore the monotony 
of the country is somewhat relieved by 
the Slieve Dart Hills, which run be- 
tween this, Ballyhaunis, and Castle- 
reagh. Dunmore need not detain the 
tourist, for the only interest that 
attaches to it arises from the circum- 
stance that Trollope has here laid the 
scene of his novel ' The Kellys of 
Castle Kelly.' 

At Castlereagh (Rte. 19) the tra- 
veller may either avail himself of 
the rly. to Roscommon, or else con- 
tinue his journey over a very bleak 
and desolate country to French/park, a 
little village protected by the woods 
of Lord De Freyne's park. 

[From hence a road runs E. to 
Elphin (anc. Ailphima), the seat of a 
diocese united with those of Kilmore 
and Ardagh. It is a prettily situated 
town, with a plain modernised cathe- 
dral used as a parish ch. 

From Frenchpark a hilly road, 
relieved occasionally by a distant view 
of Lough Gara on the L, runs to 

Boyle (Hotel: Monson's) (Rte. 18).] 






Ireland. 



Route 34, — Atltlone to TAmericJc. 



817 



ROUTE 34. 

THE SHANNON, FROM ATHLONE TO 
LIMERICK. 

is route, about the most beauti- 
ful in the inland portion of In land, 
- a little arrangement in its 
rformanet . - i as to take advantage 
imer, which starts ev< ry 
1 morning about 11 o'clock* re- 
turning from Killaloe ou the fol- 
lowing day, A f« w words on the 
pl i-apliy of the Shannon 

place here. Eta 

so' gmonshena Mountain! 

1 rim. is described in Rte. <">. 

as - t' it- upper 

- Lough R i and Ath- 

lone. [t ] * -'.' 1 miles ofcon- 

. ami wash b the 

- viz. Leitrim, 

B «c - . I. ingford, Westnu ath, 

ig'a C >unty, ( ialway, TipperarVj 

. Lii • rick, and Kerry. " From 

llaloe in t. . of i lare, to its 

riv< r assumes a great 

riety of character. In some pl ic 

it - ut in* a or lak< b, 

which — Lough Derg and 

ugh K« ■:* — ; ich above 20 m. 

g. The falls and rapids, which 

mount to an ele- 

i 1 17 ft., are overcome by 

1 it. and 1 " Bisi 

. • mptying itself 
ishiiig the 
•ur most fertile countii 

I the rain col- 
li 3 
x - Killai' 

all tii 

tin ( t. c mditions for 

i fulfill, d. I 
u n try \g 

>il 
ii) 

i 
»n- 



Bidered as almost in the condition <^ 
presenting a true water-evaporating 
surface.*'-- Kane. 

Quitting Athlone with its noble 
bridge and fortifications, nothing 

claims attention for the first G 
miles, except where the stream di- 
\i les and encloses the flat surface of 
Long [aland, a1 the end of which is 
a pile of stones in the river, marking 
the division between the counties of 
Westmeatb, Roscommon, and King's 
County: but at 

9m. is one of the most interesting 
and holy places in all Ireland — the 7 
churches of Clonmachnois — "Cluain 
Mac Nois, Retreat of the Sons of the 
Noble " — a name gained by the ce- 
lebrity in former fits monastic 

establishments,' its gatherings of 
learned and pioua nun, and the 
shclh r that it afforded to everything 

that was holy and good in the days 
of dark ignorance and superstition. 
In 548 an abbey was founded by St. 
Kieran on ground given by Dermod 
MacOi rvaii, King of Ireland, and 
continued to flourish under a suc- 
tion of prelates, notwithstanding 
the incursions of the Anglo-Normans, 
who more than once destroyed and 
laid waste the town and ecclesiastical 
buildii The ruins consist of : 1. 

The churches. 2. The Round Tow* 
i rs. .*:. 'I'll'- ( ': 

(".) The Dahmliag Mor, or Great 

('h., is recorded by the Four Masters 

having been built in 909 by iflann, 

;i Kim;-"}' Ireland, and Cblman Conail- 

lech, Abbot of < Jlonmachnoia. Jt wt 

however, subsequently re-edified in the 

a or 1 1th cent, by Tomultach 

M< I > rmott, cl burg : it is 

lied Teampul McDermott 

'I he chief points of into i boul ii 

eh. are — th< rn doorway, of 

which Petrie " But though I 

< h. w;i> tlii sitilJ find 

in • ndstoi da of t 

W. ■!' i more an- 

:iml material, 
which <1 Si rent from those of 

iam.4 n*' d J-- ■ 



318 



Route 34. — Athlone to Limericlc. 



Ireland. 



building, sufficiently show ; and that 
such capitals belonged to the door- 
way of the original ch. I see no 
reason to doubt." The N. doorway, 
built by Dean Odo, is of later date, 
and presents an elaborate Perp. or- 
namentation. Over the arch are 3 
effigies - St. Patrick in his pontificals 
in the centre, with St. Francis and 
St. Dominick on either side; on a 
higher row their portraits are re- 
peated ; and on the pillars is the in- 
scription — 
" Dous Odo Decanus Cluanni me fieri fecit." 

(b.) Teampul Finghin, or Fineen's 
Ch., supposed to have been erected 
about the 13th cent, by Fineen Mac 
Carthy More, presents little but its 
chancel and a round tower attached 
to the S.E. junction with the nave. 
The chancel- arch, which remains, for- 
merly possessed 3 concentric arches ; 
the inner one has fallen away, and 
its place is supplied by a plain arch. 
Notice the chevron moulding on the 
second arch, the Egyptian-looking 
heads of the capitals, and " the bul- 
bous characters of the bases of the 
columns." The chancel is lighted by 
a small circular-headed window, and 
possesses an ornamented piscina. 

(c.) Teampul Connor, founded in 
the 10th cent, by Cathol, the son of 
Connor, is used as a parish ch. ; its 
sole antiquity is a circular-headed 
doorway of that period. 

In addition to these, there is a 
small ch. or oratory of St. Kieran, 
who also possesses here a stone, a 
well, and a cellar. This last is just 
to the S. of Teampul McDermott, and 
has a small octangular belfry. 

2. The Round Towers are two : — 

(a.) The largest, or O'Rourke's, is 
roofless, and stands on an elevation at 
the W. side of the ch.-yard. It is com- 
posed partly of the grey limestone 
with which this district abounds, and 
is entered by a door 15 ft. from the 
ground. Dr. Petrie considers it to 
have been erected about 908 (coeval 
with the Dahmliag Mor), though he 



considers " that it was indeed re- 
paired at a period long subsequent to 
its erection, there is abundant evi- 
dence in the masonry of the building 
itself, the upper portion being of 
coarse-jointed masonry of limestone ; 
while the greater part of it below is 
of close-jointed ashlar sandstone ; and 
besides, it is quite obvious that the 
tower when such restoration was 
made was reduced considerably in its 
original height, as proportioned to 
its circumference. " From its situ- 
ation, this tower is a very conspicuous 
feature. " It was high enough to 
take cognizance of the coming enemy, 
let him come from what point he 
might; it commanded the ancient 
causeway that was laid down, at a con- 
siderable expense, across the great 
bog on the Connaught side of the 
Shannon ; it looked up and down 
the river, and commanded the tor- 
tuous and sweeping reaches of the 
stream, as it unfolded itself like an 
uncoiling serpent along the sur- 
rounding bogs and marshes ; it com- 
manded the line of the Aisgir 
Riadha ; could hold communication 
with the holy places of Clonfert ; and 
from the top of its pillared height send 
its beacon light towards the sacred 
isles and anchorite retreats of Lough 
Rea ; it was large and roomy enough 
to contain all the officiating priests 
of Clonmachnois, with their pixes, 
vestments, and books ; and though the 
pagan Dane or the wild Munsterman 
might rush on in rapid inroad, yet 
the solitary watcher on the tower 
was ready to give warning, and col- 
lect within the protecting pillar all 
holy men and things, until the ty- 
ranny was overpast." — Otway. 

(b.) McCarthy's tower, attached 
to the chancel of the ch., is more 
perfect ; it is 7 ft. in diameter within 
and 55 ft. high, with a conical cross 
on the summit. The door of this 
tower is level with the ground — an 
unusual feature. 

3. In front of the W. door of Te- 
ampul McDermott, and coeval with 



Ireland. I? wte .°>l. — CUmmcLchnois — Shannoribridge, 



nio 



it, is the great formed by a 

single stone, l"' t't. high and elabo- 
rately jarred. In the lowest com- 
parti] enl of the W. front o( the shaft 
n [rish inscription : — 

r for Flaon, bod of Maolsechlainn." 

And on the reverse side : — 

•• a leman, who made this Cross 

on the kin;:: l'huin. ' 

i ties the qui -lion of the date 

io building o( the cm-.. The 
dptures on the W. Bide are in- 
iided to relate to the original foun- 
dation ofClonmachnois by St. Kieran, 

aide commemo- 

- in tli<' lit*.- of <>ur Saviour, 

ai which it obtained the name 

it in t lie A' oals of Hgi roach, 

* 3 na Sen ptra — or Cross 

Script) St Eoeran is re- 

1 with a hammer in one hand 

: a mallet in the other. 

I . • i to tip I 

are a number of inscribed tombstom 3, 

in of t ge< •?' loth cent. 

— Buch as the one to Maelflnnia 

. ! 2 . B 1.1m, t, 89 

Flannchadh abbot, 1003 , Suibhne 
M lliumai one of the three 

! - ! wh< 1 Alfred the 

. ( "oirpe ( Jromm bishop, 
mil ii] - The whole 

crowded with graveston 
the preference given to 
1 rment. 

Tl tival of St. Kieran is held on 

S ptember, when im- 
aumbers of \» ople from I 

the country 

performing their 

id the day in the [usual 

f drunkenm ss. 

We ntion 

the 
which stands with 
■ • 
3 

a «li I • 

• g 



lum ; a curtain-wall, at leasl 10 ft. 
thick, lies at an angle of 45 , reclining 
upon about Aft. of its thick'.—." — 
Otway. 

Sonic distance to the N.E. are the 
remains of the nunnery built by I> - 
vorgilla, daughter of O'Melaghlin, 
connected, it is said, with the eh. 
by a Bubterranean passage; the road 
between the two, and carried on to 
the E., is known as the Pilgrims' 
Road. 

The geologist will notice before 
leaving Clonmachnois tlie singular 
grave] ridges or hills forming the 
•• Aisgir Riadha," known as" Eskers," 
which intersect Ireland from E. to 
W, They here cross the Shannon, 
causing the river to be deflected 
and form a bend. In met, the 7 chs. 
are situated on a great mass of 
drift. 

Distances. — By water from Atli- 
lone, 9m. ; by land, 13. Shannon- 
bridge, 4 by land; 5 by water. 

14 m. Shannoribridge is a small 
town at the confluence of the Suck 
with the Shannon, dividing Galway 
fr<>m Roscommon, which is crossed 
by a bridge of 18 arches, resting on 

small island. The Connaught end 
of it is defended by a tcte du pont and 
an artillery barrack. At l'.'.'in. we 
arrive off Shannon Harbour (for 
an account of which with its "Ho- 
tel/' * -hick Hinton '), which, 
ere the days of railway COmmuni- 

fcion, was of some importance as 
the point of junction between the 
Shannon navigation and thai of the 
Grand Canal, which may, in one 

ise, be said to cross the Shannon, 
Is off a branch of 15 m. to 
! I Uii sloe : the distance from this 
I oint to the Liffey at Dublin is 80 m. 
I [ere also 1 i . * - river Brosna flows in, 
running near Lough Owel Mullin- 

r , and flowing past * I ad 

Bord< rile.' b;mk 

the d< m< M -town I Louse for- 

m< rly t of the L'E i ran 

lily , and near it BX( the ruim 
I I 



320 



Route 34. — Aihlone to Limericlc. 



Ireland. 



24 m. Banagher (Rte. 27) (Hotel: 
Harp), celebrated for its fairs and 
its old bridge, which is supposed to 
have stood tor over 400 years. But 
as it showed signs of incapability, and 
some of the projecting buttresses were 
extremely inconvenient, a canal with 
a swing bridge was cut on the Gal- 
way side. Both sides of the river 
are strongly defended by barracks 
and batteries; and on the opposite 
bank is another of the Esker gravel 
ridges. In the neighbourhood of Ba- 
nagher are Castle Garden, Clare- 
mount ^ J. Armstrong, Esq.), near 
which is the keep of Garry Castle, 
and Castle Iver (J. F. Armstrong, 
Esq.). 

Conveyances. — Daily to Parsons- 
town. 

Distances. — Athlone, 24 m. ; Par- 
sonstown, 8 ; Portumna, by water, 
13 ; Shannon Harbour, 4 J ; Cloghan, 
5 ; Clonfert, 5. 

[An excursion may be made to 
Clonfert, 5 m. to the N.W. (Cluain- 
fearth, the retired spot), where St. 
Brendan founded in the 6th cent, a 
ch. famous for its 7 altars. It subse- 
quently became the seat of a diocese, 
and is now united with Killaloe, Kil- 
macduagh, and Kilfenora. The ca- 
thedral, which is also parish ch., does 
not contain very much of interest.] 

Below Banagher the Shannon be- 
gins to divide, and becomes very tor- 
tuous and uncertain. Near Esker 
Bridgo, on rt. are Shannon View, and 
Shannon Grove (Hubert Moore, 
Esq.) ; and further W., Lismore 
Castle, and the village of Eyrecourt, 
adjoining which is the fine seat of 
the family of Eyre. 

28 J m. near the junction of the Little 
Brosna is Meellch (anc. Miline), where 
an abbey for conventual friars was 
founded in the 12th cent, by O'Mad- 
den, rhief of the county. The remains 
stand on the Gal way side, on a plot of 
ground which, in winter, is frequently 
an island. 

Commanding Meelick, on the op- 
posite bank, is a martello tower, and 



on an island a little above are the 
Keelogue batteries. The navigation 
in this portion of the river is so de- 
vious, that a canal has been cut from 
above the batteries, rejoining the 
Shannon at the mouth of the Little 
Brosna. Passing on rt. Harding 
Grove, and 1. Ballymacegan House, 
the tower of Portland Castle, and 
Portland House (T. Stonej^, Esq.), 
the voyager arrives at 

37 m. Portumna (Inn: Taylor's), 
which, though in itself situated on 
rather flat ground, yet commands fine 
views of Lough Derg and the Slieve 
Bau ghta hills on the W. The most no- 
ticeable objects are the wooden bridge 
over the Shannon, built by Lemuel 
Cox, the American architect of Derry, 
Waterford, and New Koss bridges. 
Its total length is 766 ft., the middle 
joart resting on an island in the 
stream. 

There are no traces left of He Bur- 
gos' ancient castle; but there are 
some of the Dominican abbey founded 
about the 13th cent., consisting of a 
few arches and an E. window. It 
was originally a cruciform building 
with a lofty tower long since fallen. 
The modern castle of the Earl of Clan- 
ricarde, the owner of the town, was 
burnt down in 1826, and has not 
been rebuilt. Portumna is a neat 
little place, and carries on a good 
business in grain. Adjoining, in ad- 
dition to the Earl of Clanricarde's 
domain, are Palmcrstown ( W. Palmer, 
Esq.), Eairy Hill (C. Cooper, Esq.\ 
Wellmount (Capt. M'Donagh), Oak- 
ley Park ; and on the opposite side 
of the river, Belleisle, the seat of Lord 
Avonmore, on whose grounds are the 
keeps of 2 castles. 

[The archaeologist should visit the 
ruins of the Abbey of Loragb, which 
is a short distance to the E. It is a 
long pile of building, the E. gable 
of which is destroyed, though the 
W. gable, containing a good window, 
is infinepreservat'on. It was lighted 
at the sides by Early Pointed win- 
dows, nearly all of them built up ; 



r 



A\P. 



Route 34. — Lough Dtirg. 



321 



wfaic] ht have been adopted as b 
means ofdi P nee during Cromwell's 
it t • Loragh. The date of the 
building i< about the 13th cent., 
although tlic original foundation is 
ribed to St. Kuan, iti the 6th cent. 
re ruins of other buildings 
in the vicinity j 
Tiir tourisl i- now fairly launched 
tic broad expanse of the shannon, 
known a- Lough 1> rg, which ex- 
far as Killaloe, and in 
- all til.- r. mainder oi' 
thi • - the navigation is 

d. The s.'.n. ry on the E3 
me and unint. r- 
but thai on the W. is of a 
_rli order, embracing a lofty ran. 
>u n tiiii - sing from the wati 

1 l » - which the tourisl 

d with Lough 1 N ru- 
in 1 > is an expansion of 

!. in length 
:n. in breadth, run- 
don from V I". b • 
S.fi x >v •• ft | en observi d that 

ther the level of the wan r 
in Lough Derg 9 2 or .'l in. 

in 24 ho d hae i known to 

1 2 inches. As the area of the 
Lough ; - : tute 

00,000 
d her - much 

imulated in 
ight. 'l he a v rage 
■ I wintt r 
Killa!' 
I ugh I > 

6ft., 
■ 
be II ft. 

the 

1 1"7 

thus accumu- 
>ir of 

th •<; cul 

rhich 

,n 1"7 <: ■ t 

;r. 



obtained." — Industrial Resources of 
Ireland, 

Quitting the little bay in which 

Portumnia is situated, and gliding be- 
tween the wooded point of Rinmaher, 
rt., and the headland of Derrymace- 
gan, 1.. we pass 1. Slevoir Hon.-.' 
I — Synge, Esq. , and enter a consi- 
derable expanse- the Upper Lough; 
a range of hills, the Slieve Baughta, 
occupies all the country on the W., 
commencing indeed to the 9. ol 
Loughrea, and embracing the district 
between Killaloe on the s. and Gort 
on the W. : the most lofty point- i c i 
the Scalp, 1074 ft., and Knockeven, 
1243ft. 

On rt., situated at the foot of one 
of the wooded spurs of Slieveanore, 

the little town of Woodford, from 
whence a small river runs into the 
Shannon at Rossmore. Iron-ore was 
at one time extensively worked LQ 

this neighbourhood; and, its very fre- 
ipifut concomitant, a chalybeate well, 
used to attract a good many people. 
On the road to Newtown Daly is 
M irbie Hill, the beautiful seat of 
Sir T. Burke, Bart., M.P. A 
number of ruined keeps stud the 
banks of Lough Dersr at various in- 
tervals; there is one very near the 
head of the lake on the W, shore ; a 
>nd. called Cloondagavoe, on ( Jregg 

I ' int. rt. : and a third on I., in the 
grounds of I hrominagh ( 'apt. Tut- 
i.ill . At this poinj the Lough nar- 
and is studded with several 
small islands; but it widens again op- 
thedemi snesofK0garvan,Mota, 

■!. and BellevieW. Nearly 

halfway, the steamer - the island 

of Qlanmore, the largest in the Lai 

< )n th- \. 1 '.. aide are remains of a ch, 

'J he mainland on the B. abounds not 

only with ruined chs., but also castles, 

which th' A [though 

-omul-- no peculiarly interesting 

■ - in tic in-. Iv. -. they .-how t b 

■ i apon 
ti. 

v I 1. 

I mbie, with th. remains 



QOO 

• , 



Route 34. — Atlilone to Limerick. 



Ireland. 



of Kilbnrron Abbey oh. Then eoraes 
Annagh Lodge, with the adjoining 
castles of Cashlaunteigeboght and 
Tullann. Below these are Annagh 
Castle, Springmonnt, Ballycolliton, 
Johnston House, Prior Park, Wood- 
park, and Prospect House. In the 
little bay of Dromineer are the ruins 
of Dromineer Castle, Hazel Point Cot- 
tage, and Shannonvale; while on the 
opposite shore are the harbour of 
AVilliamstown, and Meelick House. 
At this point the direction of the 
Lough changes more to the W., and 
the most beautiful part of the scenery 
opens up in the Bay of ScarifT. 

On the northern shore is the little 
village of Mount Shannon, nestling at 
the foot of Knockeven, 1242 ft., and 
adjoining the village are the prettily 
wooded grounds of Woodpark (Philip 
Reade, Esq.). The antiquary should 
land at Mount Shannon for the pur- 
pose of visiting Inniscalthra (Innis- 
Calthair, or Holy Island), so remark- 
able for its chs. and round tower. In 
the 7th cent. . St. Caimin visited it, 
and established a monastery which 
became famed for its sanctity and 
learning — St. Caimin himself having 
written a commentary on the Psalms.. 
His ch. or chs. experienced the usual 
fate of destruction from the Danes; 
but were more or less re-edified by 
Brian Boroimhe, King of Munster, 
in 1027. The principal ch. is con- 
sidered by Dr. Petrie to present in its 
ruined nave the original features of 
St. Caimin's plan, while the chancel 
is the work of Brian; the nave is 
internally 30 ft. in length by 21 ft. in 
breadth, the chancel being a square of 
loft. "These measurements, how- 
ever, appear to be those of the original 
ch. of St. Caimin, erected in the 7th 

'it., as it seems obvious, from the 
character of the masonry and of some 
of the features in the nave, that the 
latter, though unquestionably remo- 
delled, was never entirely destroyed." 
Xotice in the nave the windows, one 
being semicircular-headed, with an 
architrave such as belongs to many of 



the round towers ; another is square- 
headed with inclined sides ; and there 
is a triangular window formed of 3 
stones, " unique in form of Irish ar- 
chitecture." The W. doorway must 
have been remarkably fine, though 
unfortunately there is very little left. 
It consisted of 3 concentric semicir- 
cular arches, ornamented with chevron 
mouldings in hollow lines, but carved 
in relief. The piers, which are rect- 
angular and rounded at their angles, 
have human heads at the capitals. 

The chancel-arch has also 3 re- 
ceding and concentric arches, but of 
a totally different style ; they are 
simply " of square-edged rib work, and 
the ornamental sculpture is confined 
to the piers, which are rounded into 
semicolumns." 

The round tower, of date of about 
the 10th cent., was celebrated as being 
the residence of an anchorite (inclu- 
sorius) of the name of St. Cosgrath 
" the Miserable/' Its height is about 
80 ft., and its upper story is wanting. 

At the head of the bay is ScarifT, a 
very charmingly situated little town, 
at the junction of 2 important roads : 
1. From Woodford and Mount Shan- 
non to Killaloe ; 2. to Tulla and the 
co. Clare. The range of hills which 
have been accompanying us for so 
many miles, here experience a check, 
but rise again almost immediately to 
the S. between ScarifT and Killaloe ; 
the result is a pretty mountain valley 
through which flows the river Gra- 
ney, rising in a considerable tarn 
called Lough Graney, and, w T hen 
near ScarifT, passing through Lough 
O 'Grady, from w T hence it emerges as 
the ScarifT river. Advantage has been 
taken of this valley to form a line of 
road to the little town of Tulla. 

Opposite Mount Shannon, the main 
course of the river runs nearly due S. 
down to Killaloe, narrowing very 
considerably between Aughinish Point 
and Castlelough. The hills speedily 
rise again, but now on both sides 
of the channel. Below Castlelough 
on 1. are the ch. and the ruins 



Ireland. 



Route 3 1. — Kilh(loe—Xcna<jh. 






of the castle; succeeded by Tower- 
I >ugh • • le and Derry ( !astle, the 
latter in the grounds of P, Bpaight, 
Esq. On the it. arc the ch, and 
[house of Tinarana, above which 

■ the heights of Croughnagower 
and Glengalliagh, 1726 feel ; and 

■ dily the steamer rounds a long 
ch in the river, and comes in 
111 of the picturesque town of 

in. Killah i //"/' I: Royal, toler- 

i Ftopia of [rish anglers, who 

have in the broad weirsand rapids of 

the Shannon one of the finesl opportu- 

nil . i in all the kingdom. 

inc i" the water, fli< - t very 

laru r -' and -andv. They can be OD- 

I Iinerick, also al Mrs. 

]'.' ' er's, 1 1 an-str< 1 1. Sol It 

irmingly situated al the fool of 

tlr Ji mountains, which 

he height of 17 K ft, and 

ink of the river, that 

rn- brawling loud music," under 

the 19 : ■:■-. and narrow 

The should not fail to visit 

old cathedral, occupy- 

i oh. founded in the 

■ or Molua Kill- 

da-Lc . I lurch of St Lua). He 

ii<- li p, and was SUC- 

St I lannan, soil of Thi 

Mm who b - 

y ben "ii the ch., 

which sp edily attain* d L< - 

1 1 r one Hi" burial-place of 

O'B t, King of Jj 

id. 1 120. I uciform ch. 

iitral tow< r 
i of the 
Thi choir 
irish ch. ( 

I to D M >re 

I . di< d 

the whole 

d 

said by I 

ir- 
I 

. 



particularly the figures on 11a 1 2nd 
arch from the inside. 

The W.end is lighted byverynar- 
row early lancet windows, deeply 
splayed within. Within the pre- 
cincts of the ch.yard is a second >in- 
gular building— a stone-roofed ch. — 
said to have been built by St. Molua 
or St. Flannan. Internally it is 
29ft. 1 in. long by 18ft. broad. It. 
is Lighted by a semicircular-headed 
window in the W. gable, and by a 
triangular or straightheaded one in 
the E. It is entered by a remarkable 
doorway, the capital of which "on 
the X. side presents a rude imitation 
of the [onic scroll, while that on the 
S, presents '2 figures of animals re- 
presenting lambs; while the archi- 
trave exhibits none of the ornaments 
considered as characteristic of Norm, 
architectun 1 >r. Petrie considers 
that the erection of this ch. is to be 
attributed to St. Flannan; while the 
one built by St. Molua is to be found 
on an island in the river. 

The navigation from Killaloe to 
Limerick is carried on by a canal, so 
to avoid the rapids of Killaloe 
and Castle Council. "The minimum 
discharge of the Shannon at Killaloe 
has b en estimated by Mr. Mull vany, 
in the driest summer, so low as 
100,000 cubic feel of water per mi- 
nute." — Ka\ ■ 

Conveyances. Steamer to Athlone; 
rail to J, in' rick. 

/ ■ I tariff, by water, 1 1 

in.: Holy Island, r_' ; Limerick, 17; 
I atle Connell, 7A; Nenagh, 12; 
[to which place a road runs round 
the southern base of the Afra hills, 
and immediately fronting the rae 
of •■ Silver-mine Mts., which cul- 
minate in the Lofty summit of ^lt. 

K& p r. : ft. 

nagh is a small '_ r irrison town 

tuato d im tli it runs down 

in the Silv< r-mim s Mts. into! oagh 

Derg. i contain much of 

in' the circul I he 

Cast i asually Known 

R< und," and 



on i 



Route 35. — Killarney to Kenmare. 



Ireland. 



largest and most important Norman 
keeps in the kingdom.] 

Conveyance. — Rail to Parsonstown, 
Dublin, and Limerick. 

The remainder of this ronte is per- 
formed by rail, passing 3 m. Bird Hill 
Station. 

7J m. at Castle Connell the 
tourist should stop to view the ra- 
pids ; where " the Shannon pours that 
immense body of water, which, above 
the rapids, is 40 ft. deep and 300 yds. 
wide, through and above a congre- 
gation of huge stones and rocks which 
extend nearly jm., and offers not 
only an unusual scene, but a spectacle 
approaching much nearer to the 
sublime than any moderate - sized 
stream can offer even in its highest cas- 
cade. None of the Welsh waterfalls 
nor the Griesbach in Switzerland can 
compare for a moment in grandeur 
and effect with the rapids of the 
Shannon." — Inglis. The river on 
either side is lined with pretty 
grounds and residences; on the 1. 
bank the principal are Castleview, 
Woodlands, the Hermitage (Lord 
Massey), and New Gardens ; and 
on the right are Waterpark and 
Doonass House (Sir Hugh Massy, 
Bart.). In the neighbourhood of the 
Annacotty station are Mount Shannon 
(Earl of Clare), Mulkear, and Thorn- 
field (Gen. Bourke) ; soon after which 
the rly. crosses a small river called 
the Slievemohean, and at Killomn 
station joins the Waterford and Li- 
merick line. 

17 m. Limerick (Rte. 33) {Hotel : 
Cruse 's). 



ROUTE 35. 

FROM KILLARNEY TO VALENTIA AND 
KEN MARE. 

A car leaves Killarney every morn- 
ing at 8, taking the high road along 
the upper shore of the lake, which 



passes Aghadoe, and crosses the 
Laune at Beaufort bridge. The tourist 
will find this portion minutely de- 
tailed in Rte. 31 . At the bridge there 
are 2 roads to Killorslin : the one on 
the N. bank of the Laune is the pret- 
tiest ; but the car follows the other, 
winding round the grounds of Beau- 
fort House, where it abruptly leaves 
the road to the Gap of Dunloe. 

Near Cullenagh House (K. Ma- 
honey, Esq.), and close to the road- 
side, is the circular fort of Labballow. 
The country traversed by this road 
is wide, open, and bleak; although 
on the 1. the landscape is relieved by 
the noble ranges of the Keeks and 
their secondary ranges, which rise 
up in a grand sweep from the undu- 
lating morasses in the foreground. 

8 m. Cliurclitown ; Sir R. Blenner- 
hasset, Bart.). Close by is the 
eh., where the McGillicuddvs are 
buried, and a little to the S. is the 
tower of Castle Core, where they 
lived. This is the best point from 
which to ascend the Reeks. At 
Banecloon the Gaddagh is crossed 
near its junction with the Laune, on 
the opposite bank of which is the ruin 
of Bally malis Castle. 

At 12 m. the Cotton ers river is 
crossed, and a broad road running 
parallel with the Laune leads into 

Killorglin, a mean-looking town, 
though prettily placed, overlooking 
the valley of the Laune, which is 
crossed by a long bridge leading to 
Miltown and Castlemaine. Here is 
still the shell of a castle formerly 
belonging to the Knights-Templars ; 
but on their dissolution it reverted 
to its former owners the Fitzgeralds, 
who lost it again in the Rebellion. 
Killorglin will not delay the tourist 
long, unless he be an angler. 

Conveyances. — Car to Killarney ; 
car to Cabirciveen ; car to Tralee, 
through Milltown and Castlemaine. 

Distances. — Killarney, 13 m. ; 
Lough Carra, 7 ; Milltown, 5. [To 
the latter place the road follows the 
rt. bank of the Laune, which very 



I L.vm 



jj ,-,;'. 35; — Castlematne— 01 






dy , stuary conjointly 

i tl e Maine. There are several 

ularforts in this neighbourhood, 

which clo9e to the road, 1 m., 

died Farrenmacwilliam. Thence 

T high ground, 

I into 

ml i 1 o valley of the 

Adjoining vn is Kil- 

man, the beaut fully wooded Eliza- 

Sir W. Go lfr< y, Bart., 

in whose grounds aina 

K Ionian «>r Ki!l< agh Abbey, 

\ iansin the r 

• 1 1 rv III., by Gcofl Mau- 

and now i >f some 

ml an 11. win- 

A littli listat • m Kil leman 

ifl 1" * " . in I 

•'. The 

'sm -I t 7 m. ( 'astle- 

supposed to 

val with rnond Bri 

1 k. -tic 

i >n t- 

irch by which it was 

sup; maining, and the 

which the pivol of 

turned is still to be 

- 

u rly had a good 
i it- position as B 

up, and r having 

• he haven, 

all • - uly d< -• rted it. 

dant, may 

1 ] 

I is 
mldei i f 

•wn, 

iim, * ' At 

I m. from i 



pedestrian who is fond <>f fine lull 
m ' \ . The lake is narrow, but 
its bank's arc in many places well 
fringed with native wood, which ap- 
pears to have been much more abund- 
ant in times gone by than it is now. 
Carez filiformis has its abode there. 
There is magnificent trout and salmon 
fishing here, and comfortable accom- 
modation in the house of a farmer 
aicd Breen, who keeps a lodging- 
hou The road to the head of 
the lake winds close to the shore for 
one-third of the distance, and is then 
cut "tl" from it by a hill of nearly 
1000 ft. in at. It .-non rejoins 

the river high< r up at Lickeen 
and Blackstones, two beautifully 
sitn ited fishing lodsr< s. At this 
tit the I : it t-1 i g flows in, taking 
its rise from Lough Acoose, at the 
fo >f of Di rryf . 1170 ft. 

Still higher, we strike the cross- 

mountain road tV m Waterville to 

Killorglin. The Carra-beg itself is 

formed by a number of small streams 

taking their rise from Coomenagh, 

35ft., and is well worth exploring, 

from the magnificent mountain views 

of the Reeks. Indeed, it is a very 

i I point from whence* to ascend 

these latter points, as the tourist 

tier by gains an entirely different 

of views to those from the other 

'!' • tourist should Btay for a 

time ;it Breen's, and, with the help of 

the < Frdnanc p, visit the rec< sc 

hills, which are 
known to few. 

•Jl m. we arrive at Glenbay, 
I • behy, a charming little spol at 
thi ;i thickly-W( oded knoll, 

md which the ' inds. 

Ik dley Arms is a comfortable 
illy filled l rs in 

- dmon fl ;i- 

Both tl 
1 the < Jarra toD 

B 

1 Haven. 

I of t 1 

,; ntain 

'.' • : ' . r the 



326 



Boute 35. — Killarney to Kenmare. Ireland. 



niit, where on the 1. a magnificent 
amphitheatre of hills unfolds itself. 
The highest point about the centre 
is Coomacarrea, 2542 ft. (at the foot 
of which are a couple of large tarns), 
flanked on the 1. by Meenteog, 
2350 ft , and on the rt. by Been 
Hill, 2189 ft. ; the eminence on the 
extreme rt., under which the road 
runs, is Dnmg Hill, 2104 ft., on the top 
of which a pattern is held. Soon after 
passing a cottage, where horses are 
changed, a very splendid view bursts 
on the sisrlit — as the road surmounts 
the shoulder of the hill and suddenly 
drops upon Dingle Bay, alongside of 
which a fine terrace is carried for 
some miles at a great elevation. 
Parallel with us on the opposite 
coast are the fine ranges which ex- 
tend from Tralee to Ventry — viz., 
Cahir-couree, 2796 ft. ; Benoskee, 
2715; Brandon, 3127; and Mt. 
Eagle, 1695, with the different 
inlets up which lie Annascaull, Din- 
gle, and Ventry — while the end of 
the promontory is finished off with 
the rocky islands of the Blaskets. 
The view to the 1. is entirely cut off 
by the steep hills overhanging the 
road, until the coast trends a little 
to the S. at the picturesque village of 
Kelts or Hollymount, with its cheer- 
ful-looking coastguard station. Here 
the mountains close in on either side, 
the road cutting off the view of the 
sea ; and we descend the open val- 
ley of the Ferta. There is a 
pretty bit of scenery at Carhan 
Bridge, with, the wooded knoll of 
Hill Grove right in front, and the 
river on the rt. Close to the bank 
is the ivy-covered ruin of Carhan, a 
cottage where Daniel O r Connell first 
saw the Light. 

38 m. Cahirciveen (Inn, Fitz- 
gerald's), a miserable little town on 
the side of a hill overlooking the 
Valentia river and harbour. There 
is nothing to see in it, but the anti- 
quary should cross the river and 
visit the ruins of Ballycarbery 
Castle, a little to the N. of which is 



a singular stone fort, in good pre- 
servation, not unlike the Staigue 
fort (p. 329). Cahirciveen is situated 
rather finely at the foot of those bluff 
mountains which have kept com- 
pany with the tourist all the way 
from Killarney. The hill overlook- 
ing the town is Bentee, 1245 ft. 

Conveyances. — Car to Killarney 
daily. 

Distances.— Killarney, 38 m. ; Kil- 
lorglin, 25 ; Glenbehy, 17 ; Valentia, 
3 ; Waterville, 12 ; Inny Bridge, 9^. 
[The ferry to Valentia Island is 
3 m. from the town, and the distance 
across to Knightstown is nearly J m. 
There is a comfortable hotel, from 
whence the tourist can visit the 
neighbourhood. 

The island of Valentia is about 
5J m. long, by 2 broad, and is sepa- 
rated from the mainland by a cir- 
cuitous passage, very narrow at 
the N. and S. entrances, but swelling 
out in the interval, so as to afford 
a secure harbourage. Generally 
speaking the surface is bold and 
rocky, rising at Ceokaun Mount, the 
most northerly point, to 880 ft. ; and 
at Bray Head, on the S., to 792 ft. 
Between these two points, however, 
the land sinks to 200 or 300 ft. The 
finest scenery, and, indeed, nearly 
all that is worth seeing is towards 
the N. of the island. At Knightstown 
the principal thing is the slate- 
works, where the processes of cut- 
ting and polishing the slabs may be 
constantly seen. Forming part of the 
office is the room (almost historic- 
ally celebrated) in which were con- 
ducted the operations of the Atlantic 
Telegraph — operations which the 
inhabitants of Valentia fondly hope 
will ere long be revived, to the benefit 
of the trade and business which 
the establishment of the Tele- 
graph brought to this district. As 
may be seen any day in the papers, 
Valentia is still an important tele- 
graph-stat. for meteorological re- 
ports. Proceeding by a very capital 
road on the N. coast, we arrive at 



I LAND. 



Route 35'. — Valentia — WaterviUc. 



097 



the only seal on the island, 

and the r. sidi 1 the Knight of 

Kerry, t if the s.»ii, and ac- 

1 nil accounts, a landlord 

who lives firmly seated In the afl 

ttons of his tenants. It is prettily 

q a cliff overlooking the 

liar 1 nd undern ath the road, 

with foliage and. brush" 

L About £ m. ahead of it is the 

• Point, guarding 

narrow entrance between tl 

islands of Valentia and Beghinish. 

itter D awkward ini- 

. being 
•tly midway betw 
I I Don B ad, a pre- 

I I ft. in In i 

offei rrv welcome to any un- 

unabl make the 

rmy night. A 

jiit, 1 

Jm w ie Atlantic rolls in 

1 be 
of g me at Valentia than 

in the kingdom. 

1 mid follow the road 

to I and thence 

< inn, which seaward pre- 

ts a lofty '-I'll', but towards the 

I bluff slope. There 

ommit of the 
in 1, of Doulas ED 
; I M ' and 

the! • v T 1 the 

Bolas H 1 i n 1 1 
while in] * t 1 It d and 

running 
I ihirciveen t 

H I al 

well worth 1 

! iri-t 

Ballyi the 

i tin re is 

T 1 from the 

ob- 

• 

. i 1 1 _r 
to P 

• \ - 
] II 

hscs the Inny ri 



a fine trout and salmon Btream, that 
rises in the hills between the coast 
and Lough Carra, and falls into Bal- 
linskelliga Bay, an open though iron- 
hound hay, with a noble white 
strand, the terror of all vessels that 
may have drifted into this neighbour- 
hood, as there is no holding ground 
for them. 

50 m, WaterviRe, is a little village, 
most romantically situated close to 
the side of Ballinskelligs Bay, and 
on a narrow neck of land that sepa- 
rates the sea from Lough Curraun 
or Lough Leane. (hi the banks 
of the Lake is the Bartopp Arm-. 
a very comfortable hotel, where the 
visitor, be he fisherman, artist, or 
Lestrian, may with comfort and plea- 
sure bide a while. Lougb Curraun, 
n \t to Killarney the finesl southern 
lake in Ireland, extends into the 
heart of the mountains for about 
m., and is connected with the 
sea by a short stream. In fact, 
were it not on a higher level, it 
might be taken for a large lagoon. 
The head of the lake, which is fed 
by the Cummcragh River, is em- 
3omed in mountains, and is sur- 
rounded by scenery of no mean order. 
B its can be had for viewing the 
Lake or for fishing; the expense of 
tin; latter item is for a boat and 
man 5*. per day. If possible, 1 

obtain the servic 
Hey, who k; lake 

thoroughly. The short connecti 
river is pi d by Mr. ButL 

whose house is adjoining the villag 
but Leave for fishing had for 

king. TJ 1 ral islands in 

ke, one of which, the Church 
Id ind. contains the ruins of an an- 
al eh. and of the hoUSC Of St. 

1 1 « 1. of the date of the 6th 
it It i- nearly circular externally, 

hut <j' inside, with a rude 

V ou the \ le. 

I in thi igh- 

I i - Bal 1 inskell 

Bay is , thi 2 1 

:i the B« 



323 



Route 35. — Killarncy to Kcnmare. Ireland, 



the Hog's Head, with the rocky 
island of Bcariff a little further out ; 

and on the W. Bolus Head, from the 
cliffs of which rises Bolus Mt., 1350 
ft. in height. [But the most sin- 
gular features of the coast are 3 little 
islands, some distance out at sea, 
known respectively as the Lemon 
Bock, the Little Skellig, and the 
Great Skellig. The latter (the far- 
thest out), although little more than 
a single cliff, is the object of vene- 
ration to crowds of devotees, who 
annually perform their difficult pil- 
grimage to the ruined abbey of St. 
Finian and the station of St. Michael. 
" The penance consists in passing, or 
rather squeezing, first through a cir- 
cular aperture in the rock, some 
feet in length, called ' The Needle's 
Ej^e ;' and then, by creeping up the 
smooth surface of a sloping stone, to 
reach a little platform about 1 yard 
in width, the sides of which slope 
down to the ocean below. From the 
further side another slanting rock or 
inclined plane ascends, in which 
small indentations are made for the 
hands and feet. The ascent of this 
flag is so difficult and frightful that 
it is called 'The Stone of Pain.' In 
accomplishing this passage the cou- 
rage of the faithful is deeply tried ; 
the least slip will carry the pilgrim 
back to the narrow platform, whence 
the acquired momentum of the de- 
scent may contribute to hurry the 
victim of credulity down the sides of 
the rocks into the depths of the 
ocean. After the performance of the 
station on the sublime pinnacle of 
St. Michael's Pillar, only one service 
remains to be accomplished by the 
faithful worshipper at this shrine of 
the ocean. A narrow stone, 2 ft. in 
breadth, and about 10 in length, 
projects at right angles from the 
highest pinnacles of the rock; and at 
its extremity, called ' The Spindle,' a 
cross is rudely graven, which the 
pilgrim is required, as the criterion 
of Jo's belief, to reach, and repeat 
over it a Pater Noster. When the 



pillar is recovered again the pil- 
grimage is passed. The mode of 
read ling the point of imminent 
danger, on which the cross is raised, 
is by sitting astride upon the spindle, 
and cautiously edging forward to the 
cross, and, without attempting to turn 
round, edging back again with equal 
care." — Wright. 

On the summit of this lone island, 
714 ft. above the sea, are the ruins 
of the monastery, which we are told 
was so desolated in 812 by the Danes, 
that the unfortunate monks were 
starved in their cells. 

In this present day the appear- 
ance of the Skellig is welcomed by 
thousands of sailors, for it is the 
seat of 2 noble fixed lighthouses, 
the one 372 ft., and the other 173 ft. 
above high- water, the light of both 
being visible for 25 m. 

A singular little rock to the S. of 
the Great Skellig is called the 
Washerwoman's Bock. Although 
the Skelligs may be visited from 
Waterville, the usual way is to make 
the excursion from Valentia, as 
the boats of the latter place are 
more available.] [A fine mountain 
excursion may be taken from Water- 
ville to Lough Oarra, 24 m., although 
one that -requires settled weather, 
The road runs by the W. shore of 
Lough Ourrane, and passes to the 1. of 
Lough Derriana, eventually crossing 
the Inny not far from its source, and 
then cutting through a broad range 
of mountains to the valley of the 
Garra (p. 325).] 

Excursions. — « 

1. Valentia. 

2. Lough Curraune. 

3. Lough Garra. 

4. Derrynane. 

Distances from Waterville. — Valen- 
tia, 11 m. ; Gahirciveen, 12; Sneem, 
20 ; Staigue Fort, 13 ; Kenmare, 36. 

It is a magnificent drive along the 
coast from Waterville to Sneem. 
About 1 m. from the former place is 
the ruined ch. of Templenakilla, and 



' 



Haute 35. — Slaigue Forf. 



329 



the rt. of the road a very perfect 
circular earthen fort. 
The \ lews are lino over Ballin- 
llig, the I log's I lead, and Bolus 
II* ad : wliile on the 1. the mountains 
rise dir< ctly from the road to a height 
of 1600 t'r". A1 5 m. from Water- 
lie there ia a very beautiful vi< w 
Derrynane Abbey, the residence 
of D. O'C mnell, Esq., the grandson 
of the gr< a1 1 . berator ; from this 
poinl a new feature in the land- 
appears, in the rocky head- 
ids and ranges on the opposite side 
ofKenmare r> y. At Caherdaniel, 7 
m, is a small stone fprt on rt. of 
1. We now cut off the project- 
lontory of the Lamb's I Lead, 
I to the pretty village of 
[AlittL tdWesI Cove E. 

Sullivan, Esq. . 1 1 m., a road to 1. 
runs up into the hills for about 2 m. 
t i § For/, one of the most 

il antiquarian remains in 
land. The best way for the tour- 
ist to visit it is to walk, directing 
Iriver to go forward, an I 
•k him up again at a spot some 4 
m. further, where a cross mountain- 
m the fort comes in. "It is 
closu] rly circular, 114 ft. 

ter from out to out ; and in 
88 ft. fn>m E. to W. : and 
v 7 ft. •'• in X. to S. The stones are 
]•']* r without any descripti 

r or » ment ; the I is 13 
ft. thick at the bott m, an 1 5 ft. 2 
1 ;tt top at the higl est part, 
whei some of 1 

f - square 'lour- 

in the 8 8.W. s 5 ft 9 in. 
i, with slopii In t 

of this n ive wall, 

niil cham- 
i the W. side is 1 2 
by 1 ft. 7. in. widi 

I • rn chambi r 

_-. but higl • They 
t rt »<f tl.'- <»r 
an in 

. filled up 
Around th< I 



the highesl reaching very nearly to 
the full height of the wall, and the 

londary flight being about half 
that much. Each step is 'J \'i. wide, 
and the lower flights project within 
the circle of the higher. They had 
to narrow platforms, on which its 
warders or <1< fenders stood. Al- 
though larger forts of this kind arc 
known in Ireland, nothing so perfect 
in the construction of the Btaircas 
encircling the interior is to be found, 
with the exception of Dunmohr, in 
middle island of Aran. A date 
of 2000 year- cannot be considered 
too old for this monument, which is 
still in a state of great preservation, 
and only to be equalled by those in 
Aran, which, howev, r, do not evince 

much care in their design and 
construction. What may have been 
the original Irish name of ' Staigue 
Port, 1 which is quite a modern appel- 
lation, has not yet been determined." 
— Wilde. 

The short cut from the Fort to 
the road over the hills should not 
be attempted without a guide, as 
the ground is boggy and difficult.] 
The road now keeps tolerably near 
the coast — obtaining fine landsc 
of the opposite hills on rt., and still 
finer ones on 1. Where the old and 
new roads join, there is a beautiful 
vi«-w looking up the cwm towards 
( Joomcallee '2i:;i ft. , a sharp, pre- 
cipitous mountain, with a tarn at the 
fo »t. The summits of the numerous 
hills belonging to this group lying 
b tween the and Killarney, 

er one other in wild 

confusion, and form a picturesque 
entrance to 20 m. Sru • m, a poor 
little town, or rather village, u< 
the month of the Sic-. 'in riv. r, and 
embosomed amidst rocks and moun- 

DS. Th< V' I ill inn, clean a 

m ll< re may put 

Up for a ! aiiitai 

:d fr<>m h< ace to K II irney, 
crossing the Black? ining 

1. About 2 m. from 
of 



330 



Houte 35. — Killarney to Kenmare. 



Ireland. 



gentlemen's residences, viz., Holly 
Wood (F. Hyde, Esq.), Parknasilla 
(now held by Dean Graves), Derry- 
quin Castle (F. C. Bland, Esq.), 
Reenaferrara (Oapt. Hartley). 

2 m. from Sneem is the small 
Island of Garirrish, belonging to the 
Earl of D n nra ven, the views from 
which combine a variety of outline 
with a picturesque beauty of detail 
scarcely to be met with on the W. 
coast of Ireland. 

At 28 m. the road crosses the 
Blackwater, which runs in a deep 
ravine under the one-arched bridge, 
foaming and rushing as though it 
were still a highland stream, instead 
of falling into the sea. With its dense 
woods on either side and its festoons 
of ivy this is a spot of rare beauty. 

[A road on the 1. leads to a 
fishing-lodge some distance up the 
river. It is worth following the 
Blackwater to its source, which is 
extremely fine, in a deep amphi- 
theatre of mountains, called " The 
Pocket." Steep escarpments sur- 
round it on all sides save the one 
from which the stream escapes. The 
cliffs on the W. of the Pocket are 
formed byBeown Mt. (2468 ft.), and 
on the N. by Mullaghnathin (2539). 
These summits form the watershed 
between the Blackwater and the 
Carra.] Leave for fishing the river 
can be obtained from Mr. Mahoney, 
or by stopping at the Blackwater 
inn, Old Dromore. 

On the opposite side of the river 
are the woods and grounds of Cap- 
pandcush or Dromore Castle, the 
beautiful seat of B. Mahoney, Esq., 
who kindly allows the tourist to 
drive through his demesne. It is a 
modern castellated residence, com- 
manding charming views of the bay 
and river of Kenmare, and contains 
the keep of the ancient castle. 

Leaving on rt. Dunkerron Castle 
(J. Taylor, Esq.), the traveller enters 

36 m. Kenmare (Hotel: Lans- 
downc Arms, tolerable). This pret- 
tily situated little town dates from 



1670, the time of its foundation by 
Sir William Petty, the ancestor of 
the Lansdowne family. " Scarcely 
any village built by an enterprising 
band of New Englanders, far from 
the dwellings of their countrymen, 
was more completely out of the pale 
of civilisation than Kenmare. Be- 
tween Petty's settlement and the 
nearest English habitation, the jour- 
ney by land was of 2 days, through 
a wild and dangerous country. Yet 
the place prosjiered : 42 houses were 
erected ; the population amounted 
to 180 ; the cattle were numerous ; 
the supply of herrings, pilchards, 
mackerel, and salmon was plentiful, 
and would have been still more 
plentiful had not the beach been, in 
the finest part of the year, covered by 
multitudes of seals. An attempt was 
made with great success to set up 
iron-works. The neighbourhood of 
Kenmare was then richly wooded, and 
Petty found it a gainful speculation 
to send ore thither." — Macaulay. 

In 1688 the success of the little 
colony attracted the jealous and 
greedy eyes of the natives, who, re- 
garding the inhabitants as heretics, 
set to work to plunder and injure 
them in every way. For a time they 
held out, and were enabled to keep 
their own ; but at length, being be- 
sieged by a regular army of 3000 men, 
the c#lony was forced to capitulate, 
and embark in a vessel for Bristol. 

It is charmingly situated at the 
very head of Kenmare Bay, where 
the Roughly river empties its waters. 
The town itself does not contain any 
object of interest, save the Suspen- 
sion Bridge which crosses the Sound 
on the road to Glengarriff. The 
tourist will soon find out, from the 
pertinacity of the girls who offer it 
for sale, that lace-work is an article 
of manufacture here as well as at 
Limerick. 

The rides and drives in the neigh- 
bourhood of Kenmare are remarkably 
varied and beautiful, and the follow- 
ing are recommended : — ■ 



Ireland. 



finufe 36. — Cork to K.< nmare. 



.>.» i 



1. To Dromore, then up the Black- 
water to Lough Brin, from thence 
along the valley of the Owenreagh, 
an<l by the new road home. 

2. To Headfort by Balgarvan and 
(he valley of the bleak. The rock 

ni ry in this vale, espi cially at 
Fileadown or tin 1> tnon'e Cliff, is 
vnv fine. 

;i. T Gl< i § rriffby the "Priest's 
l p." 

4. Along K< nmare Bay to the 
1 fClonee, [nchiquin,and GUen- 

. and thence to the harbour of 
Kilmich lelog 

nveyances. — Car toSneem daily, 
1. in the season, carto Glengarriff 
and Bantry : also to Killarney. 
!>>■ 9. — Killarney, 19 m. ; 
_Mir;iK 17: Macroom, 29; Ban- 
try, 27 : Si i m, L6 : Waterville, 36. 
Ti Killarney follows ap 

the course of the Finnihy river, and 
idually ascends from the valley 
Into the mountains, offering very 
fine views, looking to the 8., of the 
ha and Slieve-Miskish Mts., in the 
proximity of B< arhaven,b tweenthe 
.' Kenmare and Bantry. 
At the 6th m. a pass in themoun- 
1. and the Sneem road 
II oce it is carrie 1 along 
•f the Oweneagh to 8 m. 
1 ooseaunagh Lough. This is one of 
-t routo - iii I • S. of Ereland 
— • tally when, after passing the 
i, the vi w of the Lak< a of 
ii y bursts upon the sight. 
■ • r< in under of this route is 
D in p. 291. 



fTE 36. 

M CORK TO KENMARE. Til BAN 
DON. BANTRY- AND GLENGARRIFF. 

\ ! erfon 

! I : ' . : 

rninu.H <-f which i 

8 | *- - 1 t ; 

i '. . I ' ii 1. the 

Union H 



suburban villas, the first objecl ofin- 
tereei is the Chetwynd Viaauct, con- 
sisting of 1 arches of L21 ft, span. 

6J m, Waterfall Station, a little 
beyond which on rt. are the walls of 
the abbey of Ballymacadane, an 
Augustinian abbey of the L5th cen- 
tury, founded by Cormao McCarthy. 
The line now p through a tunnel, 

and arrives at Ballinhassig stat. The 
village is about 1 m. to I. e \V. The 
mad from the station passes at the 
back of Mount Mary, over a very lino 
arch which spans the glen. Ballina- 
boy Bouse is the seal of J. Molony, 
Esq. Crossihg the Owenboy river, 
which flows into the sea near ( Sarriga- 
line and Crosshaven Rt . 37 , the 
traveller next arrives at Orossbarry, 
where there is a junction with the 
Kinsale branch, 11 m. in length, 
which has the merit of being one of 
the cheapest lines in the kingdom, it 
only having cost 60002. a mile. 

24 m. Kirwale {Hotel: Royal 
George; a new one is now build- 
ing by the Railway Co.) is both 
quaint and striking in its appear- 
ance, the houses rising in tiers 
on the side of the Compass Hill, 
overlooking the windings of the 
Bandon riv< On the same side, 
but fronting the town, are the vil- 
lages of Scilly and Cove, which are 
;i goo 1 deal frequented in the bathing 

son. The harbour is defend d by 
Charl - r in. a Little bdow ( !oi 
and the ( >Id Fort, occupying a pro- 
montory round which the river mafe 
a gre it bend. The latter, however, 
otherwise call( d ( Sastle-ni-park, is no 
Longer kepi ap : it is hexagonal in 

ape, and the towers and intrench- 
mentsare in tolerable condit ion. Kin- 
aot conl iin much of antiqua- 
rian int. n st, save ti , a fine old 
ii buildin it" have bi en 
1 by St M alt la in the 1 1th 

ttury. f • ■ ■ m tains a v< n< rable 
W. end, with the apj 

«! 
dl bro tch Bpire ; a N". tran- 
• with a • t wit dow ; a S 



332 



Route 36. — Corlc to Kenmare. 



Ireland. 



trans, in ruins. The doorway of the 
tower is evidently of Inter date. In 
the interior are some monuments 
to the families of Southwell and 
Perceval, temp. Charles I. Tt must 
not, however, be inferred that the 
t >wn is modern, for, on the con- 
trary, it is one of the oldest in 
Ireland, and is alluded to in ancient 
MSS. as Cean Taile, " the headland 
in the sea/' In the 14th century 
it came into the possession of the 
powerful family of Courcy, who built 
a castle and made it a walled town, 
and ever since that period Kinsale 
knew very little peace, but came 
in for an unusual number of hard 
blows, principally at the hands 
of the Spaniards in 1601. They 
seized and held it for some days 
against the English army under 
Lord Mouutjoy and Sir J. Carew, 
who, when they called on the Spanish 
commander to surrender the town, 
received for answer that " it was held 
for Christ and the King of Spain." 
Kinsale suffered again during the 
Parliamentary war, in which it de- 
clared in favour of Cromwell. There 
is a very charming walk at the back 
of the ch. and round Compass Hill, 
from which the visitor gains beau- 
tiful views of the Forts and the 
Bandon river, with a ruined ch. and 
castle on the opposite bank. From 
the security of the harbour and the 
speed with which vessels could gain 
the open sea, Kinsale has been exten- 
di v. ly used as a rendezvous for squad- 
rons of the navy and homeward or 
outward bound vessels. It is lighted 
by a fixed light, at Charles Fort, off 
which there is rather an awkward 
bar ; also by a fixed light on the Old 
Head of Kinsale, 294 ft. above high 
water, and visible for 23 nautical 
miles. It is a pleasant excursion from 
the town to the Head, a promontory 
anxiously looked for by the homeward- 
bound voyager from America, who 
sights the Old Head of Kinsale before 
any other British land. The best 
though longest way is by the village 



of Ballinspittle, where there is a 
remarkably perfect fort with treble 
ramparts and intrenchments. It is, 
however, considerably nearer to cross 
the ferry. The Danes are said to 
have received their first defeat from 
the Irish at this spot. Passing 
Garrettstown (A. Forster, Esq.), 
the road emerges upon Courtmac- 
sherry Bay, and enters the penin- 
sula at Lispatrick. The geologist 
will find Posidonia lateralis in the 
slates of this district. The Signal 
Tower is placed on a strip of land, 
where the interval between the 
rocks on either side becomes very 
contracted ; the little bay on each 
side is known as Holeopen Bay, 
and on the W. side of it are the 
ruins of the old castle, built by the 
De Courcys in the 12th century. 
The Head itself, though only 256 ft. 
above the sea, presents magnifi- 
cent coast views, the chief points to 
the W. being the Seven Heads and 
the Galley Head. The distance 
from the town to the lighthouse by 
the nearest road is 5 m., and by 
Ballinspittle 9 m. ; to Bandon, 13 
(by road) ; Cork, 24 ; Inishannon 8 ; 
Carrigaline, 13. 

1} m. from Brinny stat., and 
near the grounds of Beechmount 
is a remarkably large Cashel Fort 
occupying an eminence of 600 ft. 

At 18 m. Inishannon stat., the 
rly. crosses Bandon river, a little 
above the point where the Brinny 
falls in. A very lovely view it is, 
the course of the river being marked 
by charming wooded creeks and 
residences. 

On the 1ST. side of the Bandon is 
Domdaniel House fRev. R. Clarke), 
in the grounds of which are the ruins 
of the castle, built by Barry Oge in 
1476. On the S. bank are Belmont 
and Cor Castle (J. Corker, Esq. 1 , 
commanding views of the valley of 
the Brinny, the confluence of which 
with the Bandon is thought by many 
to exceed in beauty the Yale of 
Avoca. 



Irel v 



Iii'Utc 36, — Bandon* 






[1.1 in. down tin- riv< r is the little 
town of [nishannon, which, thoug 
once an important walled and cas- 
ti Hated place, baa little to recom- 
mend it now but its beautiful situa- 
q. Si ill further down towards 
Kinsale are the b sautlful grounds of 
Bhippool W. II- nick, Esq.), ex- 
tending for a considerable distance 
river-side ; the ruins of 
Poulnalong Castle, an old fortress 
of the McCarl and Rock Castle, 

in tlu' grounds of which arc slight 
remains of ( Sarrig mass ( iastle.j 
arting the demesne of Woodlands, 
and passiug it. the tower of Hi 1 beg 
3tl< , the train arrives at its ter- 
minus at 

20 in. Bandon Inns: Devon- 
shire Ana- : French's , next to 
rk the busiest and most im- 
rtanl town in the county. It is 
pleasantly situated on the rt. bank 
the Bandon river, in a broad 
valley bouuded on the X. by 
iara Hills. With the exception 
the handsome modi rn eh. and a 
rn R. C. chapel, the town itself 
mtains very little thai is int rest- 
irist, except the Earl 
i ndon's Park of Castle Bernard 
_ the banks of 
river to the W. The Bandon 
ivigable only to Iniahauuon, 
fcdeh may therefore be considered 
but at deal of 

l'ii- t-ii in distilling, 

I il esi iblishmenl being 
All man, miu of the 
largest in tlie S Ireland. 

' Rail to < lork ; ear 

B at • an<l D unman way ; in the 

ison dai! Glenj. ad Ken- 

Skil en; daily to 

I 

a • - ion 

to Skihb 

/' ,20; ] shannon, 

Do 17; ( .if; 

. . ; Skib- 
I 

— 
1. I 



2. Timoleague. 

3. Enniskeen and Kinneith. 

The direct route from Bandon to 
Bantry is through Dunmanway, 1 
read to which keeps the X. or 1. 
bank of \\\r river, skirting t: 

grounds of Castle Bernard and 

Laragh Sous 

26 in. on S. side is Kilcolman (W. 
Lamb. Esq. , and on the X. the 
Glebe House of Morragh and Palace 
Ann A. Beamish, Esq. , a curio 
old-fashioned residence of the 17th 

cent. 

29 m. are the villages of Ennis- 
keen and Ballyneen. 
[}\ in. to it., on the old mountain 

road to Mac room, over the Clara Hills, 
is the Round Tower of Kinneith or 
Kinnergh, 7.3 ft. high and 65 in cir- 
cumference. The chief peculiarity 
about it is that for the first 15 it. it 
is of hexagonal shape, and circular 
for the remainder of its height.] 

31| m.. at the confluence of the 
Blackwater with the Bandon, the 
road passes several pleasant seat.-, 
that make a contrast to the mono- 
tonous character of the scenery. On 
1. Kilcaskan Castle (O'Neill Daunt, 
Esq. ; and on rt. Fort Robert (od 
the residence of the late Fearg 
O'Connor), Laurel Hill, Carrigni< I . 
and Manch House V. O'Comn 
Esq. . 

[33 m. 1. a road to Clonakilty 
cros - the Bandon, soon pas 
th<- ruins <>t" BaUynacarrig ( a. 
the Hamlet by the Rock . a for- 
tress built by the McCarthys to 
command tin- pai s. "It is a lot 
square pile of building, the walls 
which ai . in thickni spiral 

e Leads t<> the b 
in- it ~. The upper apai tm. nt 

by circular arched windows, 
with mouldings enriched with < • u i i - 
on.- d nd \ .. riptural 

emblems, among which is our 
i thi between 2 

thii There are a] 

' R.M. — C.C., ] 581 mmemorat ng 
adal iithy and his wi 



334 



Route 36. — Corh to Kenmare. 



Ireland. 



Catherine Collins. Below this apart- 
ment is a lofty vaulted hall, which 
from the brackets and small windows 
still remaining is supposed to have 
been originally divided into 3 dif- 
ferent stories." — Lewis."} 

The country, which has been 
hitherto undulating, becomes wilder 
and more mountainous at Dunman- 
way {Inn : Wagner's), 37 m. which 
is on the slopes of the shoulders 
thrown out to the S. by the Sheeny 
Mountains. The Bandon here makes 
a turn from the N., Dun man way 
itself being situated on an affluent 
formed by 2 streams dignified with 
the names of The Brewery and the 
Dirty River. Immediately at the 
back of the town is Gunery Hill and 
Yew-tree Rock, 1032 ft., the Bandon 
taking its rise in the elevated moors 
between the latter and the Sheehy 
Hills. There are 2 roads from Dun- 
manway to Bantry, and it is hard to 
say which is most hilly and dreary ; 
the one usually taken is to the S., 
following up the stream of the 
Brewery, and then crossing the hills 
to 45 m. the village of Drimoleague, 
soon after which the Hen, which 
joins the sea near Skibbereen, is 
crossed. If the traveller takes the N. 
road, he will pass the ruins of Castle 
Donovan, a solitary and rude for- 
tress-tower of the O' Donovan family. 

57 m. Bantry. [If the tourist is 
not tied to time, he will find a more 
interesting though considerably 
longer route to Bantry, by coasting 
it to Timoleague, Clonakilty, and 
Skibbereen. A pleasant road runs 
S. from Bandon up the little valley 
of the Bridewell, giving off rt. at 
Old Chapel, 1 m., a direct road to 
Clonakilty. May field on rt. is the 
seat of T. Poole, Esq.] 

At the mouth of the Arjideen river, 
8 m., is Timoleague (Ty-Mologua, 
" The House of St. Mologua "), cele- 
brated for its Franciscan Abbey, 
founded in the commencement of the 
14th cent, by the McCarthys. It 
consists of a nave, choir, and S. 



transept, with a singular light square 
tower rising between the *2 former 
to a height of 68 ft. This tower, 
together with the library and dormi- 
tories, was an addition of the Bishop 
of Ross in the 16th century. 

On the S. of the nave and the W. 
of the transept is a graceful open 
arcade, " supported by 7 irregular 
arches resting on cylindrical and 
square pillars without capitals." 

The nave is lighted by pointed, 
square-headed, and ogee windows ; 
the E. window and the one in the 
transept are of 3 lights (E. Eng.;, 
while the W. window is of 2 lights. 

To the E. of the transept are the 
remains of an oratory ; there are also 
portions of the domestic offices. 
The situation of the abbey is charm- 
ing, as the sea washes its very walls, 
running up an inlet from the bay of 
Courtmacsherry. A convenient cir- 
cumstance was this for the friars, who 
were thus enabled to receive at their 
doors many a cargo of Spanish wine. 
Adjoining the village are Timoleague 
House and Ummera. 2J m. to the 
S.E. is the pretty village of Courtmac- 
sherry, principally inhabited by 
fishermen, on. the S. side of the inlet. 

To the N. of the road between 
Timoleague and Clonakilty is the 
eh. of Kilmaloda, which has been 
well restored by Mr. Bence Jones, a 
gentleman residing near Clonakilty. 

14 m. Clonakilty (Inn : Donovan's ; 
bad) will not detain the tourist 
long. It is rather pleasantly situ- 
ated at the head of an inlet of the 
sea, which, however, is very detri- 
mental to the trade of the town, 
owing to its tendency to silt up, and 
thus prevent any but small vessels 
from approaching the harbour. 

The Earl of Shannon built a 
Linen Hall and tried to establish a 
trade, but it did not answer. The 
archaeologist will find a good many 
ruins in the neighbourhood, although 
none of them are of importance or 
offer any very interesting features. 
They consist of a ch. on the island of 



Ireland. Boat* 36.— Eoescarbery- Skibbereen. 






Inchdorey, a castle at Arundel on 
the E. the Lolel ; also at 

Dunnycove, Dunowen, and Dun- 
yon Galley Head. The lasl 3 
boul 8 ia. to the S. of Clona- 
kil Tin re Lb also a .-tone circle 1 
V. of the t<>\vn. 

I — . —Car to Bandon. 

1> 'i 9. — Bandon, 1 1 m. ; Timo- 
6 : R< escarb ry, 8 ; (.all. v 
Bea 1. 9 ; Skibbere< n, 20. " 

T tery improvi a considerably 

in the neighborhood of 

B a rrh. /•//. the termina- 
tion of Carbery being added to dis- 
tinguish it from Rosa in co. Water- 
ford. It is a charmingly situated 
little town at the head of a pill run- 
m R sscarberj Bay, part 
which is cross< d by a long can- - 
way road from the E. shore. Look- 
ing \. are the woods of Cahermore 
T. Hungerford, EsqO In the 6th 
SI Faugknan, otherwise called 
r " the hairy,"' founded a 
and religious school, the 
of the at diocese of 

iatt-d in jurisdiction with 
and Cork. The cathedral 
the ] arish eh. is a Ft rp. cruci- 
m building, with an octagonal spire 
rising from the tower. There i 

S. doorway, and a W. 
wi arhts, and the nave is 

1 from the choir by 8 i n. 

A1 ' id, in the interior, U 

ilar-h< aded arch, the crown 
i. d with a head. 
1 8 :' tin cathedral are the 

i n^hnan's ch., 
\\! h t't hut the wa 

ir. 
1 : I aughti 

tablishmenl of 

It is tty 

y, the 

i by the 

1 j . S 

1 k«- ti 

I ■■, tli. \V. 
n I ' 

rof tie 



Adjoining the town on the upper road 

to Leap is Derry, the seal of II. 
Townsend, Esq. The Lower o 
cross* - the Rour} rh i p, passing I, 
Etoury Bouse, and Coppinger's Court, 
a ruined mansion of thai family, who 
flourished in the time of Elizabeth. 

The In ad of another estuary Lfi 
crossed at 

27 ni. Leap, a picturesque village, 
where the Leap river Hows through 
a dorp ravine that, in the days of 
had roads and facility of getting 
into debt, provoked the Baying, " To 
live beyond the Leap was to live 
ond the Law.'" Both tin se re- 
proaches arc now remedied, and the 
Leap is spanned by a good bridge, 
On the opposite bank of the estuary 
of Glandore are Brade House T. 
Swanton, Esq.) and Myr< - >. 
Townsend. Esq. . the woods of which 
add much to the beauty of the sc< ne. 
Lower down is the village of Union- 
hall, from whence there is a ferry 
the opposite village of Glandore. 

[About 7 m. to the B. of Leap is 
Castle Haven, another of these nu- 
merous inlets, along the W. shores of 
which are the village and woods 
1 stle Townsend (Rev. M. Towns- 
end). The views from the hay and 
cliffs arc extremely fine, command- 
ing Toe Head and the whole lino 
of coasi from Galley Head to Cape 
Clear.] Passing a Bene* of I 
water ponds, called tin- Bhepperton 
Lak< s, and well Btocked with trout, 
the traveller reaches 

.';:; m. Skibbereen Tuns: Com- 
mercial ; Bechi r 'a Arms] is a town 
of some importance in this di 
trict, .i- it is the largest in tl 

B.W, i ; ii' r of Inland, and d< 
:i fiiir busin - in grain and agri- 
cultural produce, though t<> Eng- 
lish i ars it is principally iati d 
with di.-tn-s, this 1<>< ality ha\ i 

ffen d to trful < \t< nt in tin- 

It is Bituat il » 
di~ nj» tl l i, which is navi- 

ble i mall the 

. 



336 



Route 36. — Corlc to Kenmare. 



Ireland. 



Old Court, some 3 m. down. The 
town itself docs not contain much 
worth seeing, though the Roman 
Catholic chapel is a pretentious Gre- 
cian building. [A very pretty trip 
can be made along the E, bank of the 
Hen to the little port of Baltimore, 
passing Old Court and Oreagh (Sir H. 
Becher, Bart.), off which is the island 
of Inchbeg. 

8 m. Baltimore is finely situated 
on the E. coast of the Bay of the 
same name, which is sheltered on 
the W. by the island of Sherkin : a 
rock overlooking the pier is crowned 
with the ruins of the castle. From 
its accessibility and its convenience 
as a harbour of refuge, it was always 
the resort of a number of foreign 
fishermen, so much so that Edward 
VI. had it in contemplation to build 
a fort and make them pay tribute. 
The 2 great events of the town were 
its surrender to the Spaniards by Sir 
Fireen O Driscoll in 1662, and its 
subsequent capture by the Algerines, 
who carried off 200 prisoners to 
Algiers. The principal interest lies 
in tiie pound, approached by a steep 
flight of steps, up and down which 
the wretched animal has to be con- 
veyed. 

The whole of this coast is indented 
and irregular in the highest degree, 
and offers to the pedestrian some fine 
cliff scenery. On the return to 
Skibbereen a detour to the E. should 
be made to visit Lough Hyne, a sort 
of cul-de-sac of the sea, which can 
only enter in by a very narrow pas- 
sage, just wide enough for a boat, 
causing at high water an extraordi- 
narv commotion. In the centre of 
the Lough is an, islet with a ruined 
tower on it ; and on the W. bank is 
a cottage ornee, built by Sir II. 
Becher. The scenery at the head, 
underneath the cliff and head of 
Knockomagh, is particularly ro- 
mantic] 

Conveyance. — Car to Bandon. 

Distances. — Bandon, 34 m. ; Cork, 
51; Rosscarbery, 11 £; Clonakiity, 



20 ; Baltimore, 8 ; Bantry, by Drimo- 
league, 20 ; Dunmanway, 16 ; Bally- 
dehob, 10 ; Roaring Water, 7 ; Skull, 
14 ; Lough Hyne, 4, 
Excursions. — 

1. Skull. 

2. Leap. 

3. Lough Hyne. 

4. Baltimore. 

The usual route followed to Bantry 
pursues the valley of the Hen, pass- 
ing 1. Hollybrook, the seat of J. 
Becher, Esq., and Mount Music. At 
Drimoleague it joins the direct road 
from Bandon. 

[The traveller, with whom time is 
no object, and does not mind rough- 
ing it a bit, should continue round 
the coast by the Crookhaven road, 
that leaves Skibbereen along the it. 
bank of the Hen, parting company 
with it at Newcourt (L. Fleming, 
Esq.) To the rt. of the road a wild 
range of hills comprise the district of 
West Carbery, forming a sort of 
backbone to the long, jutting pro- 
montory, w T hich, with many others, 
characterise this S.W. coast. The 
scenery is romantic at Roaring Water, 
7 m., where a mountain river rushes 
impetuously through a deep glen, 
into the bay of the same name. A 
second inlet runs up to Ballydehob, 
10m., in the neighbourhood of which 
copper-mines have been worked. 

The Bay of Roaring Water is of 
considerable extent, and contains 
some rather large islands — the most 
important, and the farthest out at 
sea, being familiar to every school- 
boy under the name of Cape Clear. 

Clear Island is nearly 2 m. in length 
by | m. in breadth, and contains a 
coastguard station, a lighthouse 
which shows a revolving light, and 
a telegraph which effects a saving of 
some six hours in the transmission of 
American news.]* 

14 m. Skull (Inn: Prince of Wales) 
is a little village at the bead of Skull 
Harbour, at the foot of Mount Ga- 
briel, which rises to the height of 
1339 ft. The parish is of enormous 



Ireland. 



Rout, ;U). — Banfri/. 



size, and externally is wild and 

deaolafc .jut, however, has b •« d 

largely found and extensively worto d, 

incipally at Cappagh, overlooking 

1 ' coast betwe< d Ballydehob and 

Bkull, and also al Horse [aland. 

1 aother mine immediately 

Skull, near the ruined Castle 

Ardentenant, a fortress of the sepl 

of Mahony. 

to the villag La Axdmanagh 
House, r ■ Ultima Thul< 
:ation will be found at 26m I uft- 
i considerable village partly 
on the mainland and partly on 

peninsula adjoining it, the in- 
l "' N aing v - ' r forming the haven. 
The oh, was built by the Bishop 
I »rk, in 1701, for the accommo- 
i of the sailors visiting th< 
rich, in times of war i specially, 
nsiderable num- 
s. The promonl - at the ter- 
ination of thia district are Brow 
H< i. Mizen Head, and Three Ci s- 
tl( The tourist, however, can cut 
from Crookhaven and coast 
up Dunmanus Bay to Dunmanus, 
Wi - is another ruined keep 

ot . th '- - AI > l » tiu a third 

?her up at Dunbeacon. On the 
3 which are hold and 
re the pretty Bequ 
of Evanson's < 
. and ] > 

i rig Boy, al 

Dunmanus, are 

and .' j;. y. 

. . 

Vickary's; T.;.n- 

]lv d an historical nol - 

from m al the head of 

Bay, ii | sition which 

i outi 

their schemesof invasion. 

jion was in 1 89, when 

nch i by 

in which the 

ave li fhat 

; 1 th. od was 

in 1796, wl with 15 

in the 13 
i 1 



337 

intention of landing. Fortunately, 
however, a severe Btorm dispersed it 
b fore the mischief was done. i\ 

a small and poor town, " in a Bmall 
valley encircled by lofty mountai 
which, attracting the clouds in their 
passage over the Atlantic involve ii 
in almost continuous rain." Adjoin- 
ing the town is Bantry House, the 
'i of the Bar! of Bantry; and 
opposite it is Whiddy Island, once a 
forest, but now converted into farms. 
It is defended by 3 redoubts, and 
contains near the northern one the 
ruins of a fortress of the OSullivans. 
There pre also fine vi ws of the 
oppositecoast ofBearhaven, to which, 
if the weather is tine, it is the b< 
plan to proceed by water, as thus 
there is a saving of 13 m. 
Conveyances. — Coach daily in the 
ison to Glengarriffi Kenmare, and 
Killarney; daily to Dunnmnw; 
and Bandon. 

Distances.— Cork, 57 m. ; Bandon, 

37; Dunmanway, 20; Skibbereen, 

by Drimoleague, 20; Crookhaven, 

22; Skull, 15; Oastleton Bearhaveri 

by water ,about20; Glengarriff, L0; 

Kenmare, 27; Gougane Barra, 16; 

kcroom, :->4. 

Excursions. — 

1. Pass of Keimaneigh. 

2. Gougane Ban 

3. Crookhaven. 

4. Glengarriff. 

The chief h auty of the southern 
route t<> Killarm y may be to 

commenc Bantry, the road fol- 

lowing the \.K. bend of the bay, 
jsing 1. Newtown House, and soon 
afterwards oi the Mealagh, 

which, in its fell over a ledge oi 
rocks, prodv charming little cas- 
cade. On 1. is Dunnamark House, 

1 on rt., up the val] 
M alagh, I taombrow and [nchiclogh. 
illylieh- y House A. 
tchins, Esq. the Owvane 

1 the road falls in from 
ic I 1 th- Pa 

K< igh l;t . : 7 . o u \ 

1 

Q 



°;8 



0')i 



Route 36. — Cork to Kenmare. 



Ireland. 



is a ruined tower, built by O'Sul- 
livan, and defended against the 
forces of Elizabeth. At 61 J m. the 
Ooomhola is crossed. This is a very 
considerable str< am, running from the 
mouutains parallel with the Owvane, 
and rising about. 7 m. to the N. in 
Lough Nambrackderg, a beautiful 
mountain tarn, surrounded on all sides 
by the lofty precipices of Kinkeen, 
1666 ft., similar to, only on a smaller 

de than Gougane Barra. The 
recesses of these hills can be ex- 
plored by following the road up the 
valley of the Coomhola. A little 
further on are the beautiful grounds 
of Ardnagashel (S. Hutchins, Esq.), 
and soon the attention of the traveller 
is entirely occupied by the exquisite 
views of 

Glengarriff, "The Rough Glen," 
(37 m., the brightest and most 
beautiful spot in Co. Cork. Glen- 
garriff is the name of a harbour 
which runs in witli a singularly in- 
dented coast outline from the N.W. 
head of Bantry Bay. The great 
charm of the place is the beautiful 
framework of mountains in which the 
picture is set, and the foreground of 
.woods that surround the eastern por- 
tion of the harbour and the course 
of the Glengarriff. "Were such a 
bay lying upon English shores, it 
would be a world's wonder. Perhaps 
if it were on the Mediterranean or 
the Baltic, English travellers would 
ilock to it by hundreds. Why not 
come and see it in Ireland ? The 
best view of this exquisite scene — 
the charm of a soft climate enhancing 
( very other — is obtained from the 
height of the hilly road leading to 
Killarnev, and at the foot of which 
is a pretty cottage, preferred as a 
r<^idence for many years by Lord 
Bantry to the stately mansion at 
Bantry. This cottage is placed on 
an island formed by a mountain 
stream, the approach to which is by 
a bridge made from the mainmast of 
a French ship of the line, one of the 
invaling fleet of 170G." —Thackeray. 



Roche's Royal Hotel, and Eccles' 
Hotel, are both tolerable ; the latter 
rather the best; and the tourist 
cannot do better than stay a day or 
two to explore the beauties of the 
neighbourhood. Writers and' tra- 
vellers of all classes have united in 
singing the praises of this delightful 
b ( y, which is in truth a perfect Para- 
dise, the only drawback to which is, 
that it puts one out of conceit with 
the rest of the country. 

The view from the hotel of the 
almost landlocked bay, with its many 
islands, the grounds and woods of 
Glengarriff Castle (R. H. White, 
Esq.) on the 1., and the coast to- 
wards Bearhaven on the rt., is in 
itself an inducement that very few 
hotels can offer. The principal 
objects of interest are the grounds 
of Glengarriff, together with the 
adjoining property of George P. 
White, Esq., through which run 
charming walks and drives ; Crom- 
well's Bridge, on the old Bearhaven 
road, a ruinous old bridge said to 
have been built by Cromwell at an 
hour's notice ; the ascent of Cob- 
dhuv, 1244 ft., at the back of Glen- 
garriff Castle ; and an exploration of 
the Caher Mountains, a most pic- 
turesque range that intervenes be- 
tween Bantry and Kenmare^ Bays. 
The Glengarriff river rises amidst a 
number of small tarns on the E. side 
of- the Eagle's Nest, 2005 ft. They 
are all full of trout, and the angler 
will obtain good sport, particularly 
in the Bantry Lake, a rather large 
tarn, under Crossterry Mountain, 
1130 ft., sending off a tributary to 
the Glengarriff. The geologist will 
rind some splendid sections at the 
head of Bantry Bay of the Glen- 
garriff grits (or upper cornstones), 
overlaid by the Dingle beds and 
red sandstones of the conglomerate 
series, passing up from them into 
the carboniferous slates. 

[An excursion should also be made 
to Castleton Bearhaven, 22 in., in 



Ireland. 



Route 3J—Corh in Bantrff. 



OOA 



which the tourist will obtain many 

• 

beautiful mountain and sea viev. 

The road keeps the W, coast of 
the bay, Btrirting the fool of the 
I ier ranges to 12 m. Adrieroole 
Harbour, a picturesque little inlet 
situated at the base of Hungry Hill, 
the highest poinl of the Caher 
mountains, 2251 ft. M It is from the 
precipitous acclivities of Hungry 
Hill that the Adrigoole stream is 
thrown over a ledge of rocks 700 ft. 
in height, and which is the fin 
mountain cataract in the kingdom : 
particularly after rains, when the 
river is swollen, the effect is sub- 
lime. From its breadth and eleva- 
tion, the foil can often be distin- 
guished al Bantry, a distance of 11 
miles." — F The ranges of the 

( her mountains now give place to 
the slit vc Miskish, the slopes of 
whi<h run down to the end of the 
montory of Dursey Head. 

m. UasbleUm Bearhaven (Inn: 
Harrington's, ofortable hasgrown 
to its present importance principally 
since the di ryofthe Bearhaven 

copper-mines at Allihi 

( )i • the town, and separated 

'> arHav* o, ia Bear Island, a 

rocky island of some »*> m. in length, 

which is still nominally kept up in 

a si of de by the Govern- 

nt. Th re & veral redoul 

;mt and a 
few men under him. 

A I runs from I wn 

promontory, passing 
Dunl H. Tex!' [. . to 

the mines, which are 7 m. distant. 
'• fn tie '• 1 m. are a veral 

v. of which run E. and W M 

and dip to the N. Borne of them 
found on trial unproductive, 
d were abandoned; but 2 vei 
on lied ill'' M< antain, 1" ing 
t't. above the 1< vel of 
and I her il 

vein, which runs \.F... have fur- 
nish* principal workings. Of 

aboul 200 
t<»ns a month. 10 p r cent. 



produce. The Camniche vein has 
been v« iry productive : the ore is 
cleaner than in the Mountain vein, 
and the breadth of the lode is from 
1 to 12 ft."— Kane. 

About 1000 people are employ* 1 
at these mhn s, which are worked by 
5 steam-engines, and the produce of 
which is shipped to Swansea. The 
tourist can either return toGlengarriff 
by the same road, or else cu1 across the 
promontory, and reach Kenmare by 
a read along the 8. side of Kenmare 
Bay by Kilmichelogue Harbour. If 
time permit this route is well worth 
following. The views about Kil- 
michelogue and Derreen are mi 
lovely.] The drive from Glengarrift 
to Kenmare is very line. The rend 
winds up the valley of the Glengan 
for a little distance, passing Glengar- 

f Lodge, and then strikes up il i 
the mountains, crossing immediately 
under Turner's Rock. 1393 ft., by a 
tunnel. It then crosses the 81a 
riv, r, and descends its valley, pa 
altogether through 3 tunnels, 45 ft., 
84 ft., and 600 ft. in length. r J 
views, both amongst the mountains 
and on the descent, are of the m 
beautiful description. 

The Kenmare river is crossed by 
a suspi nsion bridge of 410 ft. in 
length, and the tourist arrives at 

si in. A", mare (Hotel: Lansdowne 
Arms . Rte. 35, in which the re- 
maindei of the route toKillarney is 
described. 



ROUTE 37. 

FROM CORK TO BANTRY, VTA MA- 
CROOM. 

Cork is one of the most incon- 
fcenl cities in I reland, — a mixl 
of aoble streets and broad qu; 

Q 2 



340 



Route 37. — Cork to Banfry. 



Ill EL A XT). 



with the very dirtiest of ill-paved 
lanes, the whole being set off by 
a charming frame of scenery that 
compensates, for many a defect. 
Hotels: Imperial, first-class; Victoria, 
pretty goo J. Good lodgings at Tan- 
ner's,- confectioner, Grand Parade. 
Pop. 80,121. 

The earliest notices of the city 
date from the times of St. Nessan 
and St. Finbar, who flourished about 
the 6th cent. Then the Danes, after 
repeatedly plundering it, took a 
fancy to settling down here them- 
selves, and carried on a somewhat 
flourishing commerce until the Anglo- 
Norm, invasion. At that time the 
ruling power was in the hands of 
Dermot McCarthy, Prince of Des- 
mond, who promptly made submis- 
sion to Henry II. on his arrival in 
1172, and did him homage. Cork 
took an active part in the disturbed 
history of the middle ages, at which 
time it was described by Camden as 
" a little trading town of great resort, 
but so beset by rebellious neigh- 
bours as to require as constant a 
watch as if continually besieged." Its 
most noticeable event was the siege 
by William III.'s army .under Marl- 
borough and the Duke of Wurtem- 
burg, when the garrison surrendered 
after holding out 5 days. 

Cork is well situated on the 

Lee — 

"The spreading Lee, that, like an island 
fayre, 
Encloseth Corke with, his divided floode" — 

Faery Queenk — 

as it emerges from a wooded and 
romantic valley upon a considerable 
extent of flat alluvial grrjund, in 
its course over which it divides. 
The island thus formed com- 
mences about 1 m. above the town, is 
enclosed by the N. and S. channels 
of the river, and contains the greater 
portion of the city. 

The N. or principal channel is 
crossed by the Northgate and St. 
Patrick's Bridges : the latter, which 
connects the principal thoroughfares 



of the town, is a fine limestone bridge 
of 3 elliptic arches, surmounted by a 
balustrade. Crossing the S. channel 
are Clarke's, Southgate, Parliament, 
and Anglesey Bridges. The banks 
of both channels are lined with 
quays, which are more extensive in 
Cork than any other city except 
Dublin. The streets offer remarkable 
contrasts : some of them, as the Mall 
and the Grand Parade, are broad and 
well built, while the generality are 
irregular, narrow, and unclean. The 
city is badly off for public ground, 
although it possesses a flat melan- 
choly-looking park running parallel 
with the Lee, and offering very 
little inducement for a promenade, 
save the pretty view of the opposite 
bank. There is, however, near the W. 
entrance of the town, and between the 
2 banks of the river, a very charming 
walk called the Mardyke, of about 
a mile in length, well sheltered by 
trees, which form a natural arch 
overhead, and which, when the 
lamps are lit at night, present an agree- 
able and foreign appearance. But 
the suburbs of Cork are so pleasant 
that the want of a good park is not 
much felt. In the unprepossessing 
S.W. district of the town was the 
old cathedral of St. Finbar, small 
and very unlike what a cathedral 
should be. With the exception of 
the tower, which was believed to 
have formed part of the old ch., it 
was a modern Doric building, with 
a stumpy spire of white limestone. 
The mode in which the funds were 
raised for its erection is singular, 
viz. by levying a tax on all the 
coal imported for 5 years. Near 
it is the episcopal palace and a 
cemetery, in which, according to 
the Litany of St. iEngus Killideus, 
written in the 9th cent., 17 bishops 
and 700 holy people lie interred with 
St. Nessan and St. Bar. A new 
cathedral is just approaching com- 
pletion, from designs by Mr. Burgess, 
who, having but a small sum of 
money at his disposal, has been at 



Ireland. Rout -"'7. — Cork — Public But! 



! L 



i the 

. • rs. l?he arrangement in the oh. 

is thai of nave, aisles, and transept, 

i r with an apsidal choir and 

ambulat ad will when finished 

have an < v» i dinglj good < ftect. 

Bt. Anne'a S mdon Ch. is re- 
markable for it- i xt inordinary many- 
1 tow i ft. high, faced en 

•J - - - with red stone, and on the 
others with limestone. 

tere is a very pn tty Dec, Pi 

byterian ch. en the N. Bide of the 

r, near the rl} Iso a B. C. 

a singular cupola, the 

ich air supported by 

: 9; and a Perp. chapel in good 

orge's Quay. 

1 n'g ( !oH charmingly 

f the town en an 

he Lee, and is 

a really fine Tudor building, char; - 

i by Lord Macaulay " as worthy 

to stand in the High street of Oxford." 

It is built oi • 'U> limestone, 

g 3 si - of a friangle, 

ha' lecku ms on the W., 

the i s on the E., and the 

hall and library on the N. Tins, in 

Qon with B nd ( ralw ; , 

one of t 's C< founded 

r an act passed in 1845, and 
a pn aident, ' -presi- 
re. From | 
9 up to 1860, 
I matriculated. 
Ti I lurt-house, ituate in 

a remarkably 
1 portico, " worthy of l\d- 
c ilumna 
blature and corni 
oup r< pr< senting Jusi 

ind M< rcy. 
the remaining public build- 
M idon i near 

i k [nstitution, 
Library, ( i . 

A ; fr I 

the I m-hoi 

A Imp rial 1 1 « » t • 1 

I i visit 

1. 
I i.held '8i- 



tion in her contribul on to the fi 
arts and literature, amongsl whom 
may be mentioned Sheridan Know I- b, 
Dr. Maginn, Havnes Bayley, ('r 
ton Oroker, and Pfogan the sculptor, 
A v< ry large trade is carried on, 
chiefly in provisions, grain, and 
butter, which are export, d to Bristo 
and the Welsh ports, principally in 
urn for coal. In the year 185 » ;i 
t' ml of 4410 ve.- sels entered and 

cleared out from the port, the value 
of the exports in butter alone being 
upwards of 101,0002. The portion of 
the harbour from the city to Pai 
has been considerably deepened, 
that vessels of 600 tons can unlbe I 
at the «piay, where there is a depth 
of 7 ft. of water at low fcidi 

m yand 8. — J5y rail per ( 
nthera and Wesl JIlv. to Dublin; 

* 

rail to Youghal and Queenstov* ; 
rail to P •; rail to Bandon and, 

Kinsale. (The stations of the '2 
former lines are near each other on 
the N. side of the river above P< - 
rose Quay, the 2 latter on the S. 
side.) Car to Dungarvan daily. 
Steamers to Queenstown several 
times a day i to Aghada, Cr< 

haven, and Ballinacurra ; to Brist 1 
and London twice a week; to Cardiff 
and Newport alternate weeks; 
Waterford, Liverpool, and Glasgow 
weekly ; to London weekly. 

Distances, — Dublin, 166 m. ; Water- 
ford, 1 lo by rail ; Limerick, 62 ; Xbu- 
21 : Qui enstown, lo ; JBlack- 

jk, 'i : P MMdleton, 6 ; 

B ii m y. 5 : Mallow, 20 ; Macro 
23; Qougane Barra, 41 ; Kinsale, 24 ; 
Bandon, 20; Bristol, 262; Liverpool, 
aouth, 275. 

i e tourisl bas plenty of choice 
• xcursions i ffi ring from < Jork, 1. To 
1 1 !« . 'Jo : i" Youghal B . 

: to Qu< enstown by rii i r, re- 
turning by raiL S e the 
mooi i i ' iri.-k"- Bridge 9 
or 1" times a daj . doing the distance 

in ;io ut an hour, ami eallii 

A.- far .. Blackrock I 

river run.- in ft . at com 

q a 



342 



Route 37. — CorJc to Pantry. 



Ireland. 



passing on 1. the Great Southern 
and Western Ely. term inns, and the 
steam- packel offices on Penrose Qnny. 
The high banks on this side, at the 
foot of which run the G Ian mire 
road and the Youghal Ely., are 
charmingly wooded, and ornamented 
with pleasant villas, the most im- 
portant betwen Cork and Glanmire 
being Tivoli (M. Cagney, Esq. \ Fort 
William, Lotamore (Lieut. - Col. 
Beamish), Lota House (G. A. Wood, 
Esq.). 

On the S. side the elevation is 
not so great, nor are the banks so 
close to the water, a large flat area 
intervening, dignified by the name 
of the Park. The Cork and Passage 
line is a conspicuous feature here. 
The principal residences are Clifton 
(J. Murphy, Esq.\ Sans Souci, 
Temple Hill (W. J. Hoare, Esq.\ and 
Dund anion (lately occupied by Sir 
Thomas Deane.) 

3 m. 1. the Glashaboy river enters 
the Lee, amidst pretty groves and 
parks running up to the suburban 
villages of Glanmire and Rivers- 
town. Nearly opposite this em- 
bouchure is Blackroch Castle, a very 
prominent feature in all the river 
views. It is a modern castellated 
building, placed at the end of a 
jutting promontory, and consists of 
a circular battlemented tower with 
a smaller turret, in which a light 
is burnt for the convenience of 
shipping. In the old castle, which 
was destroyed by fire in 1727, courts 
of Admiralty were held to preserve 
the rights of the Corporation. On 1. 
again are the woods of Dunkettle 
(J. Morris, Esq f \ North Esk, and 
Inchera House, the latter situated on 
the Little Island, a considerable tract 
separated from the mainland by a nar- 
row tidal stream : while overlooking 
all these places is the Mathew 
Tower, a round tower erected by Mr. 
Connor to the memory of Father 
Mathew, of temperance celebrity. _ It 
is well worth making a pedestrian 
excursion from Cork through Glan- 



mire for the sake of the noble pano- 
rama of the Queenstown river. 

As the Lee turns round the corner 
at Blackrock the shores sweep away 
on either side, enclosing a magnifi- 
cent sheet of water known as Lough 
Mali on. On 1., at the S. bank of 
Little Island, there is a beau- 
tiful pass up one of the branches, 
separating it from Foaty Island, the 
extremity of which is crossed by the 
Queenstown Ely. 

6 m. rt. Passage West, a pretty 

village embosomed in woods, and a 

considerable place of call both for 

tourists and others bound up and 

down the river. It is busy and 

prosperous, and boasts a large 

private dock and timber-yard, the 

property of Mr. Brown — 

"The town of Passage is both large and 
spacious, 
And situate upon the say ; 
'Tis nate and dacent, and quite adjacent 
To come from Cork on a summer's day. 

There you may slip and take a dip in 
Forenint the shipping that at anchor ride, 

Or in a wherry cross o'er the ferry 
To Carrigaloe on the other side." 

Lover's Irish Lyrics. 

Passing the Turkish Baths and 
the water establishment of Carrig- 
mahon, the next point of interest is 

8 m. rt. Monlcstown, situated amongst 
thick woods at the mouth of one of 
the small pills that ran into the 
main estuary. Its principal object 
of interest is the castle, a quad- 
rangular building flanked by square 
towers, built in 1636 at the cost of a 
groat. " Mrs. Anastasia Archdeckan, 
while her husband was absent in a 
foreign land, determined to afford him 
an agreeable surprise by presenting 
him, on his return, with a castle of 
her own erection. Having engaged 
workmen, she made an agreement 
with them that they should purchase 
food and clothing solely from herself. 
The thrifty lady then laid in a good 
store of these necessaries, charging 
the workmen a commission on the 
sales. When the edifice was com- 
pleted, on balancing her amount of 



Ireland. 



Rout 31 



■ }ueen8tovm— CJ< yne. 



343 



receipts an 1 expenditure, she found 
thai the latto • 1 the former 

by t p< nee."— Cody. Probably this 
is the first example on record of 
Crack practice on a Large scale, 

Tlir st< am< r now r< unds the point, 
htkI (iii. rs the magnificent harbour 
of' ' iwn, in former days known 

the 1 7eof Cork. " The harbour 
of Cork, pre-eminenl for it- capacity 
and safety, ituate 1 1 m. below 
the city : it is .'» m. long, 2 broad, 
mpletely landlocked^ and capable 
of shelt< ring the whole British navy. 

by a channel 2 m. I 
and 1 broad, d< fended by batteri 
on each . and by otm rs in I 

ini >///. The channel just 

between Rock's P int 
and M im's 1 1 both headlands 

ng l ■■ rded by a fort, on the 
form* r thai of . and on the 

latl r thi : of Canal, n. 

10m. ' loU I: Queen's, 

an i \ . ll( nt i ishmi nt < xtends 

rable distance along 

the N. '• ast of the harbour, and, 

from the improvements that have 

within the last few y 
is liki i rank high amongst the 
: watering-placea To the W. 
iwn a splendid promenade is 
1 by the quay erected in 
1848 by Lord Middleton. The great 
charm of I : stown is t\\*- noble 
ry of the harbour, with its 
islands of Hawlbowline and Spik 
aial the constant su( i □ of 

that is provide d by the 
arrivals and d( partnrt s of the Am< ri- 
nd < ! 

[1 1 locality 

[mmi diat< ly opposite the 
- II. wll \ line Island, de] 
tailing stoi 
v [aland, «>n whic r 

mi] barracks; and Spike 
I I, wh 

I id tl 

1ii< fly employed in 1 1 1 • - 

the 
entrance to the channel until I 



have been only nominally k< pi up, 
but are new being restored to their 
original defensive state 

A little to the N. of Ram's Head 
is the fishing village of Grot 
haven at the mouth of the < >w< nl i 
which runs inland in a considerable 
stream as far as Ca,rrigaline t pic- 
turesquely situated on high ground 
overlooking the river. The ancient 
fortress had the reputation during I 
whole of Elizabeth's reign of being 
impregnable. The eh. is -,\ fine 
Perp, building, with a pinnacled 
tower and an octagonal spire rising 
from it. It contains the monument 

and leaden effigy of Lady Newen- 
ham, who died 1754. In the neigh- 
bourhood of the village arc Kil- 
money Abbey M. Roberts, Esq.), 
and Mount Rivers (Capt. Roberts ; 
and between it and Crosshaven, on 
the X. bank, is Goolmore (Rev. E. II. 
Newenham , and on the S. Agha- 
marta Stan dish O'Grady, Esq. , and 
Hoddersfield. In the grounds of 
the former is the ruined castle of 
Aghamarta, a fortress of the Earls 
of Desmond, overlooking a reach - t 
the river in which Sir Francis Drake 
once took shelter when hard pr< ss< I 
by some Spanish \ 

On tla eastern promontory op] 
site to Queenstown are the v'l 
of W te and Agl ada, adjoin- 

ing which are Gareystown W. Hick- 
son, Esq. , Hadwill Lodgi R v. R. 
Austin , Aghada ^\^ ir J. 

Thackwell . Rostellan Castle i< - 
merly a seal of the Lords of Tho- 
mond), in the grounds of which 
La a cromlech within high-water 

k. To the 8 . n< ar R< 
Point, familiar to the read* rs oi 

ims from America, are Trabol^ i n 
L 'id F< rmoy . and Roche's Mount 

M 38 Roche). h:id:i [g the D( 

• -in whence to visit 
-.itli. d] vn of 
( nt, which 

I with ( 'ork in it- bishop- 
ric. The cathedral, a& d as 1 i 
ch., is a plain cruciform build- 



314 



Bonte 37. — Cork to Bantry. 



Ireland. 



ing, dating from about the com- 
mencement of the 14th cent. In the 
interior are monuments to Bishops 
Warburton and Woodward, and one 
to the memory of a Miss Adams 
with an inscription from the pen of 
Mrs. Piozzi. In the ch. are remains 
of a stone house, which tradition 
says was built by St. Colman, the 
founder of the abbey, in the 7th cent. 

The most interesting building in 
Cloyne is the round tower adjoining 
the W. door of the cathedral. The 
entire height is 102 ft., though from 
this amount 10 ft. must be deducted 
for its modern castellated top, which 
was added after a considerable rent 
had been produced by lightning, 
and for the protection of the cathe- 
dral bell, which hung in the upper 
stage. The tower is remarkably 
cylindrical, and divided into 5 stages 
or floors. The door is about 13 ft. 
from the ground.] 

[From Aghada the steamers con- 
tinue their course up a wooded and 
picturesque creek of the river to 
Ballinacurra (lite. 28), from whence 
the tourist can walk or procure a car 
to Middleton 1 m., and return to 
Cork by rly.*]. 

The road from Cork to Macroom 
leaves the western portion of the 
town, keeping on 1. the college and 
gaol, and on rt. the Mardyke wall, 
Shanakiel House (F. R. Leahy, 
Esq.), the Lunatic Asylum, and 
Mount Desert (Nich. Dunscombe, 
Esq.\ on the high bank overlooking 
the Lee. 

4 m., at the junction of the Blarney 
river, is the restored castle of Car- 
rigrohane, which, after serving as the 
feudal fortress of the McCarthius, 
and subsequently of the Barretts, 
was the head-quarters of Capt. Cope 
and daring band of brigands. From 
this point a road is given off to Ma- 
croom along the S. bank of the Lee, 
passing through Ballincollig. 

At Carrigrohane the river is 

* The line between Cork and Macroom has 
Just been opened. 



crossed just below the bend, where 
there is the deep pool of Poul-an- 
Iffrin, fabled to be guarded by a 
gigantic snake. On the opposite 
side of the Aunbeg or Blarney river 
are Rosanna (Capt. Webb), Kits- 
borough, and Leemont (S. Coppin- 
ger, Esq.) at the foot of a picturesque 
wooded hill. 

The road now keeps close to the 
river, having on the opposite bank 
the artillery barracks and the gun- 
powder mills of Ballincollig, to 7 m. 
1. Inishcarra Ch., founded by S. 
Senan, situated at the confluence of 
the Bride, soon after which is the 
Glebe House, and 8J m. rt. Ardrum, 
the beautiful seat of Sir G. Colt- 
hurst, Bart. 

The scenery at Inishcarra, and 
from thence to Ardrum, is some of 
the most delightful that is to be 
found on the Lee. The square keep 
of Castle Inch is on the opposite bank ; 
and further on are the remains of 
the ch. of Inishleena, or Inishluinga, 
founded by the same holy man that 
built Inishcarra. The road now 
quits the Lee for a space, and runs 
up the valley of the Dripsey river 
to 13 m. the village of Dripsey. The 
antiquary will And in this locality an 
Ogham stone near St. Olave's Well. 

The tourist is now fairly in the 
district of Muskerry, whose moun- 
tains, giving birth to the Lee and 
many smaller southern streams, ap- 
pear to the W. Running parallel, but 
at some distance to the S. of the 
road hitherto traversed from Cork, 
are the Clara Hills, separating the 
valley of the Lee from that of the 
Bandon. In the neighbourhood of 
Inchigeelah, however, they gradually 
trend to the N., and unite with the 
main ranges of Muskerry. 

15 m. Coachford village, and 
on 1. Riversdale, and Leemount 
House (T. H. Broderick, Esq.). The 
road then crosses the GlashagarilT 
stream, and passes rt. Oakgrove, 
to Carrigadrohid, where the Lee is 
spanned by a bridge. In the middle 



Ireland. 



"Route 37. — Macroom. 



845 



of tli" river ; - i r i fc crowned with 

the i uiii i f 0) rrigadrohid ( Sastle, 

and a most picturesque appearance 

it has, reminding the tourist of some 

the castles of the Rhine or Nfo- 

lle. "It- Bit is said to have 

en chosen by tin- lovely Una 

O'Oarroll, to gratify whose caprice 

her Lover Diarmid M'Carthy raised 

the castle in a marvellously brief 

time on the clii had chost 

where they both lived happily after 

their nuptials.' 1 Oarrigadrohid was 

fo I in 1650 by Lord Broghill, 

who had captured the Bishop of 

Boss at Macroom, and promised him 

a pardon on the condition of ! 

persuading tl rrison to give in. 

The bishop consented; but, on being 

brought before the walls, fervently 

exhorted them to hold out. for which 

patriotic act he was then and there 

hung. Indeed, it was only by strata- 

m that the English got hold of it 

all, viz. by drawing some heavy 

timber up, which the garrison took 

for cannon, and so surrendered. 

Tli. re is an entrance to the castle 

m the bridge which, by the way, 

- built by Cromwell's order : 

Rock of the Bridge. 

< >i the opposite si i of the stream 

are Killinandrish J. Hass< it, Esq. , 

' tleville R. Nettles, Esq. . 

new winds to the S . and 

iff a great round, pas - 

ing through Glencaum, one of the 

romantic and striking - in 

At '22 ti, i;dl river called the 

La joins the Sullane, and near 

solitary tower 
I tie, hnilt by 
O m I - y, oth< rwise called 
VI - 

mi. 
route on the B. bank of 
tli' I 3 through Ballincoll 

-milla of which li- lie 

th< trill •■_'• and ti 
• r. A littl( 'i ; -' to th< 8 

B Castle, Burrounded by 

a •' bawn." This wasafortf -.-ot' the 



Barretts, temp. Edward I IT. Pa 
ing Lisheen House R. Donovan, 
Esq.), and crossing the Brid< . is the 
village of Ovens, in the neighbour- 
hood of which are a numher of re- 
markable caves, but little known 
and seldom visited. 

[At Elm Park a detour of a 
mile should be made to the 1. to 
visit the abbey ruins of Kilcrea t 
wry prettily situated at the end 
of an avenue of trees on the banks 
of the Bride, towards which the 
Clara Hills gradually slope down. 
It is a Franciscan Friary of the 
15th century, founded by Oormac 
McCarthy Laidin, Lord of Mus- 
kerry, and consists of nave, choir, 
and transepts, with a tower 80 
high rising from the junction of the 
2 former. Separated from the nave 
by 3 pointed inches is a side aisle, 
which was divided in the same 
manner from the transept. There 
is very little ornamental detail, the 
mullions of the windows having 
been destroyed, according to tradi- 
tion, by Cromwell and his soldiers. 
The interior contains the vault of 
tin- McCarthys of Muskerry ; also 
in the S. trans, the tomb of Herlihy, 
Bishop of Ross, one of the 3 Irish 
bishops who attend* d the Council •■!' 
Trent. A little to the W. of I 
abbey is the keep of Kilcrea ( lasl le, 
whore the McCarthys held their 
rule. The traces of the bawn and 
outworks are Btill visible.] 

The road now passes ETanan Lodge, 
Rye Couri C pt. Rye . near which 
are the keep of ( ' istlemore ( lastle, 
I ookstown, Kilcondry. and Lissar- 
dagh W. Baldwin, Esq. , and 1« ;<\ i 
Warren's Court Sir A. Wai i, n. 
Hit. to the L, striking on tie I 
;i little below the confluence oi the 
Sullane. 

21 in. ( Joolcour House W. Browne, 

23 in. Mcu lf"f> l : Que< 

\ mi- i y situated in tl ■ 

v;ill< v of the Sullane, an affluent of 
the Lee, winch rises some J ( » m. to 






346 



Houte 37. — CorJc to Bantry. 



Ireland. 



the W. in the Derrynasaggart Moun- 
tains, ;i range that intervenes between 
this district and the Paps of Kil- 
larney. The town itself possesses no 
very great object of interest except 
the castle, a quadrangular keep, 
said to have been erected in the 
reign of King John. It has now 
been modernized, and is the resi- 
dence of the Hon. W. Hedges. It was 
the scene of several sieges in the 
17th cent., when it was burnt down 
no less than 4 times. During one of 
these struggles it was garrisoned by 
the Bishop of Eoss, the same who 
was hanged by Lord Broghill before 
the walls of Carrigadrohid. Admiral 
Penn, the father of the Pennsyl- 
vanian hero, is said to have been born 
within Macroom Oastle. The E. 0. 
chapel, from its situation on an 
eminence to the S. of the town, is a 
conspicuous feature. Amongst the 
seats in the neighbourhood are 
Mount Hedges (Col. Hon. W. 
Hedges), Eockborough (H. Browne, 
Esq.), Ealeigh House (E. J. Leahy, 
Esq.), Ashgrove (T. Leader, Esq.), 
ancl Codrum (A. Orpen, Esq.), all in 
the valley of the Sullane, and near 
the road to Killarnev. 

Distances. — Killarney, by Ken- 
mare, 50 m. ; Cork, 23 ; Bantry, 34 ; 
Keimaneigh, 18 ; Inchageelah, 9 ; 
Gougane Barra, 19 ; Kenmare, 31 ; 
Carrigaphuca, 3. 

Excursions. — ■ 

1. Inchageelah. 

2. Carrigaphuca. 

3. Dripsey. 

4. Kilcrea. 

[The direct road from Macroom to 
Killarney follows up the valley of 
the Sullane, keeping the Boggeragh 
Mountains to the rt., and passing 
3 m. near the confluence of the 
Finnow, the square keep of Carriga- 
phuca Castle, another of the many 
fortresses of the McCarthys. At 
13 m. the village of Bally vourney, 
the road strikes right into the heart 
of the Derrynasaggart Mountains, 
about 1500 ft. in height, and then 



descends somewhat into the valley 
of the Flesk, which it crosses at 
Poulgorm Bridge. From this point 
the tourist keeps company with the 
Flesk, which, as seen in Ete. 31, 
leaves tlie hills through a gap be- 
tween the Paps and Croghan.] The 
remainder of the distance from Ma- 
croom to Bantry 34 m. is through 
some of the finest and wildest scenery 
in the S. of Ireland, and care should 
be taken that the car and horse be 
good, as there is little chance of a 
relay anywhere on the road, which 
leaves the valley of the Sullane, and 
rejoins the Lee at Toom Bridge, 
from whence a visit can be paid to 
the tower of Dundareirke Castle. 
The Lee has quite a different cha- 
racter here from what it has low^er 
down, as it flows for a considerable 
distance through a morass, the effect 
of which is to divert its stream and 
form a number of sedgy islets. 

A little before arriving at 32 m. 
the village of Inchageelah, is on 1. 
the tower of Carrynaeurra, or Castle 
Masters, rising upon a finely escarped 
cliff above the river. It belonged in 
the times of the "troubles of '41 " 
to the OXearys, a sept only second 
to the McCarthys, to whom, indeed, 
they were subject. Inchageelah 
{Inn : Brophy's ; a good locality for 
the angler) is situated near the E. end 
of Lough Allua, a winding enlarge- 
ment of the Lee, of about 3 m. in 
length, along the northern shore < f 
which the Bantry road keeps to the 
village of Bealnageary. At the W. 
end of Lough Allua is a mountain 
with the sad though poetic name of 
Coolnegreenane, "the mountain un- 
known to the sunbeam. *' To the S. ;;f 
Lough Allua are the Sheehy Hills, 
1796 ft., which intervene between 
the valley of the Lee and the Bandon 
at Dun man way. 

^ m. from Bealnageary, where the 
small and picturesque stream of the 
Bunsheelin flows in, the Lee is 
crossed by the 1st bridge on its 
course, and the mountains which 



Ireland. 



Route 37, — Cork to Bantry. 



347 



encircle the mystic lake of Gougane 

V> irra h gin to Bhow their pre- 

'ii- and gully-riven sides. At 

1 1 m. rt. a shori road Leads to the 

Lake from win nee the Loo lias 
it- Bonrce. Gougane Barra, "the 
rgling Head," is a small and 
p tarn, almost entirely sur- 
rounded by mural precipic ve 
I 1 E. side, * I r i narrow outlet 
permits the infant Lee to emerge. 
The cliffs on either Bide i 
directly from the banks of the lal 
deep shadows over its wato 
d adding preatly to the solemnity 
;li which the locality is invested 
m its association with the holy 
St. Finbar, who built on the island 
an oratory still hold in great venera- 
tion. The origin of his retreat here 
follows : Patrick, after 
oishing the reptiles out of the 
m tr\\ overlooked one hideous 
ter, a winged dragon, which 
ited the adjacent country, and 
] . w - conferred on a holy man, 
med Fineen Bar, to drown tlio 
in Gougane Lake, on con- 
i of erecting a ch. wftere its 
wal net the tide; and tho saint, 
In _ terminated the monster, 
fulfilled the agreement by foundi 
th< thedral of Cork." The 
_ 3 »n the island arc rude and 
msist of some cells, 
with a portion of the chapel 
•ratory, the former being aboul 
f 'i. lot g by 14 broad. On a cause- 
S of the Lake is a small 
v, held in great repute from 
companionship with the 
mains uf saint. Immediately 



above Gougane Barra the mountains 
rise up to a height of 1700 ^r L800 ft,, 
the principal summits being Conicar, 
L 886 ft., and Foilastookeen, on the 
s. : Nadan-viller, " the Ogle's NTi si 
on the W. ; from any one of which is 
a magnificent view of tin- Killarm y 
Mountains to the N., Bantry Bay 
1 Glengarriff to the 8.W., with the 
Bterner features of the Pass of Kei- 

maneigh and the lake close at hand. 

Turning suddenly to the B., the 
road enters a magnificenl gap in 
the Bheehy Mountains, known 
the Pass of Keimaneigh, '-the Path 
of the Deer"— 

•• Where the Bevered rocks resemble fragments 
of a Frozen Bea, 

And the wild deer flee" — BPCaetHX — 

one of tlie finest and most savage of 
the ravines in the B. of Inland. It is 
about 1 m. in length, and is b rnnded 
on each side by precipitous walls of 
rock, in the rifts and crevices of 
which ferns, heaths, and wild flowers 
find a cong nial home. The London 
Pride is pi culiarly abundant and fine 
in this locality. 

At the head of the pass, b< tween 
I nicar rt. and Doughill L, is the 
watershed of the Btreams running N". 

the valley of the Lee, and thoe 
like the Owvane, which How to the 
Bantry Bay. 

Down this valley it is a rapid 

d« scent, during which many beautiful 

views of the hay open out. At Bal- 

lylickey, where the Owvane enters 

i, the Glengarriff road is joined, 

I from thence it is o\ m. to Bantry 



Index. 



( 19 ) 



INDEX. 



ABBEYFEAU-:. 



lar», T^~ 

bey Knockmoy, ?T4. 
Morne, i'i. : ; 
t. 
Achill Head, 195. 



Sound, 19?. 

3, :q8. 

le, Waterf., ^9. 

Aff.r 

• 54?- 

mart a C„ ?4?. 
:culture of Ireland, xxxvi. 

v 
rl»w, :- 

- Mines, ;;<). 

.carry, 9a 
Anaphr: 

-CUll, J 

Anp -\ man remain?, lii. 

n, 181. 
Am 41. 

Ar.. 

i8o. 















•■ 



BALDAHGAN. 

Ardraban, u-\. 
ArdsoUns, j 10. 
Arklow, ; 

Arkyne, C. 171. 

Armagh, history and situa- 
tion, 150; cathedral, anti- 
quities, 151; manufacture, 

152. 

Armer's Hole. 4T. 

Annoy, it;. 

Arrigal Mount, P9. 

Artane, 19. 

Artramon C, 205. 

Ashford, 212. 

Ashlee, 191. 

Askeaton, 2^9. 

Asselyn, 157. 

Ass ey C, 1 j 6. 

Athassel, 27;. 

Athboy, 146. 

Atlieame C, 142. 

Atliclare, 30. 

Athenry, 128, j 14. 

Athgor, 220. 

Athlone, 124: '.124; 

barrackB, railwa; 

125. 

to limerick, :\~. 

to Ro» 1 mm< n. 1 

Athlumney C, i;0. 
Athy, 2*9. 

202. 

. 2I3. 

Auburn, 1 26. 

Andley, <;.. 44. 

brim, 1 
— I: . 114. 



B 

I 



BALLYLICKEY 

Baldoyle, 19. 
Balla, 1 
Ballina, 161. 
Balllnacurra, 265. 
Ballinafad, 157. 
Ballinamallard, 62. 
Ballinasloe, n r \ 
Balllncolllg, ;^t. 
Ballinderry, 1 74. 
Balllndrait, 86. 
Ballinglen, 162. 
Ballinhaasig, ? jt. 
Bal Unrobe, 1 5. 
Ballinspittle, ??2. 
Ballintobber A., r86. 
Ballintogber, 158. 
Ballintoy, no. 
Rill intra, 77. 
Ballitore, 241. 
Ballybay, 55. 
Ballybeg, 144. 
Ballybofey, 80. 
Ballybogan, 1 ?r. 
B dlybrittas, 22?. 
Ballybrophy, 227. 

ybunion, ;o2. 
B 1 Lycane^ 
Ballycarbery, 726. 
Ballycarry, 117. 
Ballycastle, 1 1 C, 162, 

yconnell, 98. 
Ballycorus, 201. 
Ballycroy, 194. 
Ballycairke, Lake, 17?. 

[ydehob, ;?'>. 
Ballyduff, 2' 
Ballygalley Head, 1 1 -. 
Ball; n, 201. 

•ii. :;. 
I'. . 

inln, 1 14. 

Balrj 



350 



INDEX. 



BALLYLIFF1N. 


BURTON. 


CARTON. 


Ballyliffin, 69. 


Bel trim C, 65. 


Bushmills, 107. 


BaUyloughan C, 241. J 


Belturbet, 149. 


Butler's Bridge, 149. 


Ballymahon, 126. 


Ben-aghlan Mount, 60. 


Butler's C, 272. 


Ballymena, 102. 


Benbulben, 74. 


Butler's Lodge, 177. 


Bally moe, 160. 


Benburb C, 64. 


Butte vant, 237. 


Ballymoney, 102. 


Bengorm Mount, 190. 




Ballymoon C., 24?. 


Benlevy Mount, 184. 


c. 


Ballymore Eustace, 221. 


Benlettery Mount, 178. 


Ballyinote, 158. 


Bennett's Bridge, 248. 


Cabinteely, 200. 


Ballymurry, 159. 


Benyevenagh, 101. 


Caherconlish, 272. 


Bullymnrtagh, 214. 


Beragh, 63. 


Caherdaniel, 329. 


Ballynacarrig C, 333- 


Betaghstown, 25. 


Cahir, 273. 


Bally nahatna, 31. 


Bilboa, 242. 


Cahirbarnagh, 279. 


Ballynahinch, 46, 179. 


Binghamstown, 163. 


Cahirciveen, 326. 


Ballynakill, 188. 


Birchfield, 312. 


Caledon, 150. 


Ballynatray, 266. 


Birr, 252. 


Callan, 247. 


Ballyneen, 333. 


Bishop's L, 301. 


Camaross Hill, 254. 


Ballyportry C, Jl>. 


Blackrock C, 342. 


Camolin, 203. 


Ballysadare, 158. 


Blackwater R., 64, 143, 185, 


Cannistown, 136. 


Ballyshannon, 76. 


238, 266, 330. 


Cappanalaura, 177. 


Bally trent, 207. 


Black water town, 64. 


Cappoquin, 267. 


Ballyvourney, 346. 


Blanchardstown, 119. 


Carberry, 129. 


Bally voy, 114. 


Blarney, 238. 


Carhan, 326. 


Ballywillan, 147. 


Blasket I., 304. 


Carlingford, 39; castle and 


Bally william, 255. 


Bloody Bridge, 41. 


oysters. 39. 


Balrothery, 24. 


Bog of Allen, 225. 


Mount, 40. 


Baltimore, j?6- 


Boher, 272. 


Carlo w, 241. 


Banagher, 100, 320. 


Bonamargy A., III. 


Carncastle, 115. 


Banbridge, 35. 


Bonet R., 61, 73. 


Cam Cochy, 35. 


Bandon, 33 j. 


Borris, 243. 


Carndonagh, 69. 


Banecioon, 324. 


B. in Ossory, 251. 


Carndoo, 116. 


Bangor, 54. 


Borrisoleigh, 228. 


Carney, 74. 


Bann R., 3?, 102, 203. 


Bovevagh, 100. 


Carngaver H., 52. 


Bannow, 260. 


Boyle, 156. 


Carnlough, 115. 


Bansha, 273. 


Boyne R., 130. 


Carnowry Gap, ior. 


Banteer, 278. 


battle of, 141. 


Carra Bridge, 325. 


Ban try, 337. 


Brandon Hill, 250, 256. 


Carrabeg, 525. 


Bargy, 207. 


Mount, 30 j. 


Carrantuohill, 291. 


Barna, 170. 


Bray, 209. 


Carrick, 83. 


Barnageera, 24. 


Brey Head, 327. 


Hill, 130. 


Barnesmore Gap, 79. 


Brinny, 332. 


Carrickabraby C, 69. 


Baronstown, 137. 


Brittas C, 228. 


Carrickarede, no. 


Barrow R., 224, 242, 250. 


Britway, 268. 


Carrickbroad river, 32. 


Bautregarm Mount, 303. 


Broadstone, 102. 


Carrickburn, 254. 


Beagh, 296. 


Brookeborough, 57. 


Carrickfergus, 117. 


Bealderrig, 162. 


Bromsford, 250. 


Carrickhugh, 99. 


Bealnabrack R., 190. 


Brosna, 252. 


Carrickmacross, 55. 


Bealnageary, 346. 


Brown's Bay, 116. 


Carrickmines, 200. 


Bear I., j?9- 


Bruce's Cast., 112. 


Carrickmore, 63. 


Bearhaven coppermines, 339. 


Bruckless, 82. 


Carrick-on-Shannon, 155. 


Beaufort Br., 284. 


Rruff, 236. 


Carrick-on-Suir, 276. 


Beauparc, 143. 1 


Brugh-na-boinne, 138. 


Carrig-a-drohid C, 345. 


Bective, 134. 


Bruree, 297. 


Carrig-a-gunnel C, 300. 


Beeclimount, 332. 


Bryansford, 42. 


Carrigaline, 343. 


Belcoo, 61. 


Bullock's C, 207. 


Carriganoss, 337. 


Belfast, 47; trade, harbour, 


Bunahurra, 195. 


Carrigans, 65. 


bridges, buildings, 48 ; 


Buncrana, 69. 


Carrig-a-phuca C, 346. 


churches, flax-mills, steam- 


Bundoran, 75. 


Carrigboy, 337. 


ers, 49. 


Bunduff Bridge, 75. 


Carrighooley, 194. 


to Donaghadee, 47. 


Bunlin Br., 95. 


Carrigmahon, 342. 


Bellarena, 101. 


Bunnabeola, 178. 


Carrig-na-Nahin, 236. 


Belleek, 59. 


Bunratty, 310. 


Carrigrohane C, 344. 


Belmullet, 163. 


Burial I., 53. 


Carrigtuohill, 265. 


Beltany, 86. 


Burrishoole, 194. 


Carrowkeel, 70. 


Bel toy, 116. 


Burton Fori, 91.* 


Carton, 122.. 



INDEX, 



351 



OASHl T. 

Ca>hel, histen : catho- 

dal. 2 ;i : I 1 . y \: y, :;:; 
Prior} . 
hla r... i 

ir, 198. 
Caa : ;3. 

>tlebellinghani, ;o. 
itl Bei oard, j j >\ 
Ueblayuey, 55. 
itlebridg : - 
Caulfield, 6;. 
r, 242. 
Dell, J 24. 
. >". 

jtle I lawson, roj. 

65. 
141. 

e Dillon, 1 
( 3 in, ;j4. 

lefiiin, 8o. 

h 
II ward, 11 j. 
Castle Inch, J44. 
1 stle Island, 295. 
itleknock, 1 1 
itlemalne, j:;. 
it-martyr, 267. 

A 
I -;le Oliver Mountains, 2;6. 
1 Pollard, 15 

1. 50, 160. 

1 .rbaven, j J9. 

1 - d H., j 1, 120. 

1 s tie town, 1:4. 

. 169. 

in, 42. 

69. 

I 
1 

[ill, 49. 

■ . 1 1 6. 

-- . 
I 
1 : 24. 

CI: nt, 64. 

. Irish, li. 
Church Hill, 
C 
' 4- 

99. 

-'4- 
I 





COPPINGER 8. 

Clare A., JIT, 
C. III. 

Claregalway, i8t. 
Clare Island, 192, 197. 
ishmore, 267. 
-ylaun, 75. 
Claven's Bi idge, 14^. 
I .. : ;6. 
1 IV. 192. 
CUifden, 187. 

bo Sligo, 187. 

Cliffony, 75. 
Clobemon, 20 j. 
Clogh-a-Stucan, 114. 
heen, 271. 
ier, 6a. 
Clogher Head, p. 
ireen, 289. 
.hronan, 242. 
oakilty, jj4- 
oard, 1 fi. 
a, 56. 
Cloncoskoran, 261. 
Cloncurry, 122. 
ndalkin, 17. 220. 
nfert, j 20. 
ngowes, 2: r. 

nmachnois, ;n; seven 
churches, J17 ; round 
towers, 318; crosses, in- 
scribed stones, castle, geo- 
logy, ?I9- 
Clonmel, 275. 
Clonrnines, 260. 
Clonsilla, 119. 
Clontarf, 17. 
Clough, 4J. 
Clonghmore, 40. 
Cloyne, 14?. 

go B., 174. 
achford, 344. 
lirooke, 57. 
raine. 101. 

B Cast, 1 06. 

Colin Glen, 50. 

162. 
C illooney, 158. 
Comi 

: Mountains, 261. 
.-. 182; arena re- 

, cavern-, if I ; canal, 

184. 
Oonfey C, 120. 
a 1, 268. 

QOT Ml!' 

town, 103. 

1 I . :.:■•■• 

I 

I 

. I - 



DEERANE. 

Oorcomroe Abbey, ;i4 

Tores Cascade, 291. 

Cork, H9 5 history, situation, 
description, cathedrals, 1 
buildings, trade, excursi< 

34i- 
to Kenmare, ] ;r. 

— — to Bantry, J39. 

Oorrigan Head, 8j. 

Corrotin, jij. 

Cottage [sL, 7J- 

Courtmacsberry, 124, 
Courtown H., 202. 
Cove, 329- 
Craigmore, 33. 
Cratloe, 310. 
Creeslough, 97. 
Crcgg, 312. 

C, i8r. 

Cregganroe, 194. 
Crevelea, 7 \. 
Croagh Patrick, 192. 
Croghan, III, 160, 196. 
Croghan Kinshela, 2 14. 
Crom Castle, 56. 
Cromlechs, xlvi. 
Cromwell's Bridge, ;;8. 
Crookhaven, J37. 
Croom, 297. 
Crossbarry, jji. 
Crossdoney, 148. 
Crosses, lii. 
Crossgar, 46. 
Crosshaven, 34?. 
Crossbill, in. 
Crossmaglen, 53. 
Crossmolina, 199. 
Crown Bridge, H- 
Croy Lodge, 194. 
Crumlin, 16, 

-heen, JIJ. 

Cuilcagh, 60. 
Culdaff, 70. 
Culloville, ; 
Culmore, 99. 

Lra, 54. 
Cummeenduff, 282, 265. 

Curlew Hills, 15% 
Curragh, 2 

Curraghmoi 
Curraun, 11 5, 1 
Coshendall, 1 14. 
Cushenduu, 114. 



Dalkey T.. : 

Dangan < '.. 1 ?+ U 

Dartrey, 
Dee] H 

1 jO. 

- 



352 



INDEX. 






DELGANV. 

Delgany, 201, 212. 
Delphi, 191. 
Deputy's Pass, 202. 
Deraddia, 179. 
Derricunihy cascade, 291. 
Deny, 65. 
Derrybawn, 215. 
Derrycarne, 155. 
Derryclare, 178. 
Derrycorrib, 163. 
Derryloran, 104. 
Derrynasaggart Mountains, 

279. 34»- 
Derrynane, 329. 
Derryveagb, 88. 
Devenisb I., 58. 
Devil's Bit, 227. 
Devil's Glen,' 213. 
Dbuega, 197. 
Diamond Hill, 189. 
Dingle, 304. 

Bay, 32?. 

• Promontory, 303. 

Dinish I., 287. 
Doagb, 95. 
Dodder R., 200. 
Doe C, 97. 
Donabate, 23. 
Donaghadee, 54. 
Donagbmore, 63, 80, 137. 
Donagbpatrick, 144. 
Donegal, 78; castle and abbey, 

Doneraile, 237. 

Donnybrook, 16. 

Donore, 132, 140. 

Doocbarry Br., 91. 

Dooega, 196. 

Doogurth, 196. 

Doobulla, 180. 

Doolin, 312. 

Doon, 188, 302. 

Point, 112. 

Douce Mount, 211. 

Down Hill, 101. 

Do vvnpa trick, 45. 

Rath of, 46. 

Dowtb, 140. 

Drimnagh C, 16. 

Drimoleague, 334. 

Dripsey, 344. 

Drisbane C, 279. 

Drogheda, town and, harbour, 
25 ; commerce, walls and 
gates, abbeys, 26; history, 
excursions, 27. 

to Cavan, 142. 

Dromahaire, 73. 

Dromana, 267. 

Dromanoen, 278. 

Dromiskin, jo. 

Dromkeen, 272. 

Dromore, 37, 62, 199, 330. 

Drowes river, 75. 

Druib Mor, 37. 



DUNGLOW. 

Drumbanagher, 34. 
Drumbo, 50. 
Drumcliff, 74. 
Drumlish, 155. 
Drumman Bridge, 87. 
Drumnasole, 114. 
Drummail, 114. 
Drumod, 155. 
Drumsisk, 40. 
Drumsna, 155. 
Dubh Cahir, 171. 

Cathair, 172. 

Dublin: situation, 3; 



ho- 



tels, street conveyances, 4 ; 
bridges, 4, 5; quays, 5; 
docks, canals, railway sta- 
tions, Bank of Ireland, 6; 
Post-office, Custom-house, 
Exchange, 7; Four Courts, 
Castle, 8; Trinity College, 
9; Library and Museum, 
10 ; Roman Catholic Uni- 
versity, statues, ib; Royal 
Dublin Society, Royal Irish 
Academy, Museum of Irish 
Industry, Irish National 
Gallery, St. Patrick's Li- 
brary, Christ Church Ca- 
thedral, ir ; St. Patrick's 
Cathedral, 1 2 ; churches, 
R. C. chapels, 14; Phoenix 
Park, 14; Zoological Gar- 
dens, Rotunda, other Insti- 
tutions, 15; suburbs, 16; 
conveyances, history, 18. 

— to Arklow, 207. 

— to Carlow, 239. 
- — to Cork, 219. 

- to Dundalk, 19. 
to Wexford, 199. 



Duff river, 75. 
Duleek, 142. 
Duna, 19 $. 
Dunally, 69. 
Dunamon, 16 3. 
Dunamase, 226. 
Dunass Head, 69. 
Dunbrody, 256. u 

Duncannon, 259. 
Duncarbry, 75. 
Dun Connor, 173. 
Duncrue, 118. 
Dundalk, 30. 

to Belfast, 30. 

to Galw T ay, 119. 

to Sligo, 54. 

Dundarave, 107. 
Dundareirke C, 346. 
Dundonald, 51. 
Dundrum, 43, 200, 233. 
Dunl'anaghy, 97. 
Dungannon, 63. 
Dungarvan, 261. 
Dungiven, 100. 
Dunglow, 91. 



FARRENMACWILLIAM. 

Dunkineely, 82. 
Dunkitt, 250, 277. 
Dunleer, 30. 
Dunlewy, 89. 
Dunloe, 284. 
Dunloy, 102. 
Dunluce, 107. 
Dunmanway, 334. 
Dunmoe, 137. 

Dunmore, 143, 247, 260, 316. 
Dunmurry, 38. 
Dun-na-gedh, 140. 
Dun-JEngus, 172. 
Dun-Onaght,.i72. 
Dunran Glen, 212. 
Dunree Head, 69. 
Dunseverick, no. 
Dunsink Observatory, 1 7. 
Dusoin Glen, 265. 
Dysart, 297. 
Dysert, 313.J 



E. 

Eagle's Nest, 286. 
Easky R., 199. 
Eden, 117. 
Edenderry, 129. 

to Drogheda, 129. 

Edgeworthstown, 154. 
Eglinton, 99. 
Elphm, 316. 

Ely Lodge, 59. 
Emania, 151. 
Emly, 234- 
Emo, 224. 
Enfield, 122. 
Ennis, 311. 
Enniscorthy, 204. 
Enniskeen, 333. 
Enniskerry, 2ir. 
Enniskillen, 57. 

to Derby, 61. 

to Killybegs, 80. 

Ennistymon, 312. 
Erne R., 57, 76. 
Errew, 199. 

Erris, 162. 
Errislannin, 189. 
Errive R., 19 r. 
Esk Valley, 79. 
Eyrecourt, 254. 



F. 

Fahan, 304. 
Fairhead, ill, 113. 
Fairy Water Bridge, 64. 
Falcarragh, 98. 
Fanet Head, 95. 
Farranfore, 295. 
Farrenmacwilliam, 325. 



1X1 






MO. 

dstown, i^ ;. 
igbart, ;i. 

.; .. ::. 
r, 1 >3. 
Fergus E : r. 

i, 269. 
1 

• - >ugh, 14") 

Tybank, 25 
1 bard, 27 

•!. 277. 

Finn I: . 5 

— - Valley, 80. 

• f- 
Fintona, 02. 
town, 8o. 
gh, 8j. 
Firinnunr, 154. 

• Mile I own, ' 

lit i vat: \xxiv. 

- 
rence Court, 60. 
Hi's, I" 

Fortli barony and mountains, 
2c6. 2^4. 

irt, 94. 
:ford, 161. 

K., 65. 
296, : 
;, 316. 
251. 
Furbu, 1 



G. 
Galball 

vay, I 

. 

ba 

suburb 

to 

to \V< sip rt, 1 

Ga ,1. 

- -»• 

1 

. T 14. 

Gazabo Hi I, :-v 

1 

Ring, 51. 



GREENCAS7 I 

Glanleam, ;:-. 

G Ian worth, v\ 

Glanmire, 242. 

Glasnevin, 17. 

Glassan, 1 26. 

Glasslough, 149. 

Glen of i lie Downs, 212. 

Glena, 2 - 

Glen-a-Cappul, 29 
naghaun, 17 ;. 

Qlenalla Mountains, 83. 
nariff, 1 14. 

Glenann, 11 ^. 

Glenbay, 125. 

Glencaum, 345. 

Glencar, 74. 

Glencastle, i6j. 
ucolomb, 84. 
odalough, domain of, 177. 

vale of, 21?. 

city, its founder, 21^; 

cathedral, church of Our 
I. idy. Round Tower. S . 
Kevin's Oil, 216; Trinity 
church, the monastery, 
church of Reefert, 217. 

Glendasan, 215. 

Glendowan, 38. 

Glendruid, 200. 

Glendun K., 114. 

Glenealy, 202. 

Glenfarn, 61. 

Glengard Head, 69. 

Glentrariff, 338. 
- isk, 9 j. 
a Lough, 96. 

Glenmore, 257. 

Glenoe, 1 16. 

oshesk K., 111. 

>-■ 
Glin C, 299. 

i Irish words, lxix. 
Glyde R., jo. 
Glynn, 116. 
bii a, 1 1 
Gol , 1 1 r, 11 ;. 

8, 214. 

It.. 2.4. 

1 
1,13. 

vn, 25. 
'» JI 1. 

; 4- 

■• H:ll. : 

■ 
: 



LNISHBOFIN. 
Greenore, 40. 

< in n. in ('., 24^. 
Grey a>bbey, =52. 2 m. 

< Ireystones, 201. 
Grianan, 68. 
Groomsport, 54. 
Guns 1., 44. 
Gurteen, 276. 
Gweebarra K., 91 . 
Gweedore, 89. 



H. 

Hag' a Castle, 17?. 

Glen, 292. 

Handcross, j 1 2. 

Hare I.. 1 26. 

Haw [bowline I , 54;. 

Hazelhatch, 220. 

Hazelwood, 72. 

Headfbrd, 181. 

C, 181. 

Headfort, 146, 279. 

Hearn< Bbrook, 2>"4. 

Hen's 1 stle, 184. 

High I., i38. 

Hill, Lord George, his im- 
provements at Gweedore, 
89. 

Hill of Down, 122. 

Hillsborough, 37. 

Hilltown, 41. 

Hollybrook, 212. 

Hollymount, 186. 

Hollywood, 51. 

Holy cross, 228. 

Holyhead to Kiogstown and 
Dublin, 2. 
c PL, 259. 

Hospital, 274. 

Hor» 'a I >>. ovi ry, 184. 

Howth, 19 ; II u bour, 
stle, 2c 

Hill, 21. 

Hy Brisail, 197, 



I. 

I.ir Oonnaught, 170, 175. 
Illanmore, L, lit. 
Irookllly < ' , 2< 
Incii < .'., 4''. 
In : . 

- -join, j- 
In< I, 
Inchtnoi 
[nchiqnln, 1 
Industrial 
lai v. 

I bofin, 1 



354 



INDEX. 



INTSIICARRA. 


KILSIIEELA. 


LTNFIELD. 


Inishcarra, 344. 


Kilkea, 240. 


Kilteel, 220, 


Inisheer, 1-53. 


Kilkee, 301. 


Kilternan, 200. 


Inishfallen, 288. 


Kilkeel, 41. 


Kiltinan, 276. 


Inishgloria, 197. 


Kilkelly, 160. 


Kiltormer, 254. 


lnishkeel, 92. 


Kilkenny, history, castle, ca- 


Kilturk, 201. 


Inishleena, 344. 


thedral, 244; monastery, 


Kil worth, 270. 


lnishmaan, 173, 186. 


245; abbey, churches, col- 


Kingstown, 2. 


Inishinacsaint, 76. 


leges, 246. 


Kinlough, 76. 


Inishmurray, 75. 


to Athenry, 251. 


Kinnafad, 130. 


Inishowen, 68. 


Killadysert, 296. 


Kinneith, 333. 


lnishtrahull, 69. 


Killakee, 215. 


Kinsale, 331. 


lniskeen, 55, 197. 


Killala, 162. 


, Head of, 332. 


Inniscalthra, 322. 


Killaloe, 323. 


Kinsalebeg, 263. 


Innistiogue, 250. 


Killamery, 276. 


Kippure Mountain, 211. 


Inver, 82. 


Killan, 129. 


Kircubbin, 53. 


Ireland's Eye, 21. 


Killarney, hotels, 279; beg- 


Kish Light, 2. 


Isl. Magee, 117. 


gars, guides, 280; the Lake, 


Knights town, 326. 




281; lake islands, 282; ex- 


Knock, 51, 174. 




cursions, 28J-292; geology 


Knockalla Mountains, 95. 


J. 


of the district, 293 ; botany, 


Knockcroghery, 159. 




294; fishing, legends, 295. 


Kuockfearina, 299. 


Jamestown, 155. 


to Kenmare, 324. 


Knocklayd, in. 


Jenkinstown, 247. 


Killary, 190. 


Knocklong, 234. 


Jerpoint, 249. 


Killasnet, 75. 


Knockmahon mines, 261. 


Johnstown, 206, 251. 


Killawillin, 270. 


Knocknaa, 315, 316. 


Jonesborough, 32. 


Killeagh, 265. 


Knocknarea, Glen of, 72. 




Killeany, 171. 


Knocknucean, 25. 




Killeary, 32. 


Knoctopher, 250. 


K- 


Killeen, 181. 


Knowth, 140. 




Killenagh, 203. 


Kyle Cross Roads, 205. 


Kantr.rk, 278. 


Kilieshin, 242. 


Kylemore, 189. 


Keady, 152. 


Killester, 19. 




Keel, 196. 


Killimor, 254. 




Keem, 196. 


Killiney, 208. 


L- 


Keeper Mountain, 323. 


Kill* man, 272. 




Keimaneigh, 347. 


Killone, 311. 


Labbalow, 324. 


Kells, 144, 247, 326. 


Killough, 43. 


Ladies' I., 207. 


Kempe Stones, 51. 


Killoughter, 201. 


Lagan R., 30, 48. 


Kenbane, in. 


Killorglin, 324. 


Laghtgeorge, 181. 


Ken mare, 330. 


Killucan, 122. 


Laghy, 78. 


Kesh, 81. 


Killuspugbrone, 72. 


Lakes of Killarney, 281. 


Kesh Corrin, 157. 


Killybegs, 82. 


Lambay L, 2?. 


Kilbarrock, 19. 


Killydonnell, 94. 


Landestown C., 23. 


Kilbarron C., 77. 


Killygordon, 80. 


Laracor, 134. 


Kilberry, 240. 


Killyleagh, 47. 


Laragh, 124, 218. 


Kilbride, 175. 


Killyon, 132. 


Lame, 115. 


Kilbroney, 41. 


Kilmacduagh, 3x3. 


Laurencetown, 3$. 


Kilcar, 83. 


Kilmacow, 250. 


Lay ton, 25. 


Kilcarn, 136. 


Kilmacrenan, 87. 


Laune R., 284, 324. 


Kilcliel C, 44. 


Kilmacthomas, 26 r. 


Lea C, 226. 


Kilcock, 122. 


Kilmaine, 185. 


Leacht Con, 73. 


Kilooleman, 325. 


Kilmalkedar, 305. 


Leap, 335. 


Kilcolgan, 314. 


Kilmallock, 234. 


Lee R., 344. 


Kilcolman, 238. 


Kilmaloda, 334. 


Leenane, 190. 


Kilcommodon, 127. 


Kilmore, 148. 


Legmonshena, 61. 


Kilconnell, 127. 


Kilmurry, 212. 


Lehinch, 312. 


Kilcoole, 2or. 


Kilmurvey, 172. 


Leighlin Br., 243. 


Kilcrea, 345. 


Kilnaleck, 147. 


Leinster Br., 131. 


Kilcullen, 222. 


Kilnasaggart, 32. 


Leixlip, 120. 


Kilcummin, 162. 


Kilree, 248. 


Letterfrack, 189. 


Kildare, 223. 


Kilronan, 171. 


Letterkenny, 86. 


Kildaunat, 197. 


Kilroot, 117. 


Lettermore I., 170. 


Kilfenora, 312. 


Kilruddery, 209. 


Liffey R., 4, 120, 221, 222. 


Kilfinane, 236. 


Kilrush, 300. 


Lifford, 85. 


Kilgobbin, 200. 


Kilsheela, 276. 


Linfield, 272. 



INDEX. 



355 



LIMERICK. 

•rick, history, *o6; situa- 
tion, bridges, castle, 

<hodral, 308; harbour, 

to Boyle, 506. 

to I . 

to Water! ;i. 271. 

1 Juiu • 

1 Isbellaw, ;- 
Llsburn, 

tnnor, j 1 2. 

in oil. l 

trton, 14T. 
1 - Inny, : 
I smany, 1 
[asm . 1 ~ 
Llsi ■ ■■'■ 
Lis isk 56. 
Lissad 

Liss :hter, i _ 
Lisl 

1. •. : _ 3. 

London : siege, 66; 

walls, cathedral, bridge^; 
knUquilies, 68. 

to Belfast, 99. 

to Gweedore, 9;. 

Longfield, 2?o. 
gford, 1 54. 
Loi 

I. i. 301. 
Lorajrb, J20. 
Ix> _ gibbon, 87. 
Turd, i"- 

Ainu. ;- . 

A I tan, 89, 98. 

Anure, 91. 

Arrow, 1 ;-. 

Beg, loj. 



Bode 

— 

■ Bray, ; 

brickla: 

Cam 

< 

— 

Cooter, ; 1 

CoDen, 1 

Curr.tun, $27, 

Dan, 219. 

Deal, 

I lerevaragh, i;;. 

Derp, 81, \v\ x \i\. 

Doo, 11 :. 191, : 

')-• 

I y, 89. 

■ } 

■ 

— 
— 

Feoogh, ' 

Fern, 87. 



LID EN. 

Lough Finn, 80. 
Forbes, 1 55. 

Foyle, 99 

tiara. 1 57. 

Qartan, 87. 

Gill, 72. 



Glen, 89, 96, K4. 

Glenad . - 

Gowna, 148. 

Gultane, | 

Gfl 

Ilyne. IJ6. 

Inagh, 178. 

Key, is^- 

Kilglass, iff. 

Kiltooris, 9:. 

Lasarae, 115. 

Looscaunagh, 291. 

Macneah, 60. 

Mask, 185, 

Cast., 1 

Melvln, 1 

more C, 228. 

Mourae, 79, 1 16. 

Muckna, 5 >• 

Nafooey, 191. 

Nambrackderg, j^8. 

iNeagh, 105. 

Owel, 152. 

Ramor, 147. 

Rea, 126,254, 317. 

rea, 254. 

ry, 104. 

Salt, 96. 

Sheelin, 148. 

Shinny, 24. 

Strangford, si. 

Swilly, 69, 86. 

Y .8. 

LouisDUrgh, 194. 

Louth, 

Lowtherstown Road, '>:. 
n, 1 19. 

duff, 21 ;. 
iw, 219. 
1 J. 

JO. 

I 

In. ?4- 

Lyons C, 223. 



iillienn Mountain, 101. 
room, ?4^. 

'. ioj. 

M i_'r r I. I 



MOUNT, 

Maigne EL, 296. 
Main R., 102. 
Malahtde, 22; eastle, :: •. 

bey, 2?. 
Malin, 69; I Toad, 69. 
Maltnmore, H4. 
Mallow, 2?8, 269. 

to Killarn- y. 277. 

Mamtork Mountains, 1 77- 
Mangerton, 290. 
Manister, 297. 
.Manor Cunningham, B6. 

Hamilton, 61. 

Marble Arch, 61 , 
Markree, 1 j 
Maryborough, 1 
MashanaglastJ ( '.. 145. 
Mathew Tower, ;42. 
Manme, 185. 
Maygl iss, 207. 
Maynooth, 121. 

Mayo Plains. 198. 

Mealagfa Falls, ;;7. 
Meelick, J20. 
Meign, j ?. 
Mellifont, 27. 
Menloogb, 17?. 
Middleton, 265. 
Milford, 8- 1;. 

Military road, 215. 
Millstreet, 279. 
Milltown C, jo, ? 25. 

Malbay, jn. 

Minerals of Inland, xxxviii. 
Minna, 170. 
Minnaun, roj6« 
Mitchelstown, 27 . 

caves, 271. 

Moat of Axdscull, 240. 
Moate, 124. 
M« geely, 265. 
MohiU, 155 
Moher Cliffs, ;i 2. 
Moira, >6. 
M sta Sound, 162. 
Molana Abbey, 1' 
Molrenny, 194. 
tghan, 149. 
Monasterbi 
Moo n, 224. 

Monasteroi 

Monavullagb Mount, 1 
M01 jo. 

Moneymor 
ilvea, 514. 

wn, ;, ;42. 
14a. 
• 4- 

Montgevlln 



356 



INDEX. 



. 



MOUNT. 


PORT ACTA) Y. 


RINDOWX. 


Mount Leinster, 204. 


Newtownards, 52. 


Portadown, 36. 


Mount Melleray, 267. 


Newtownbarry, 203. 


Portaferry, 53. 


Mountmellick, 225. 


Newtownbellew, 315. 


Portarlington, 224. 


Mountnorris, 54. 


Newtownbreda, 50. 


Porthcoon, 108. 


Mount Nugent, 148. 


Newtownbutler, 56. 


Portlaw, 277. 


Mountrath, 227. 


Newtowncuningham, 93. 


Portmagee, 327. 


Mount Pleasant, 32. 


Newtown Forbes, 154. 


Portmarnock, 22. 


Mount Shannon, 522. 


Newtowngore, 73. 


Portnaspania, 1 10. 


Mount Stewart, 51. 


Newtownlimavaddy, 99. 


Portnoffer, 109. 


Mourne R-, 65. 


Newtownmountkenned} r , 212. 


Portora, 58. 


Moville, 70. 


Newtownstewart, 64. 


Portraine, 23. 


Moy, 64, 160. 


Nier R., 262, 


Portrush, 106. 


Moycullen, 175. 


Nine-mile-house, 276. 


Portstewart, 106. 


Moyne C, 182. 


Ninestones, 204. 


Portumna, 320. 


A., 161. 


Nore R., 247. 


Poul-an-iffrin, 344. 


Moyiy, 32. 


Nun's Cross, 213. 


Powerscourt, 211. 


Moy valley, 122. 




Poyntz Pass, 3$. 


Muckross A., 289. 




Pullins, 77. 


Muff, 70, 99. 


0. 


Puncheston, 221. 


Muilrea, 190. 






Mule's Leap, 13 r. 


Ogbill Fort, 172. 




Mulgrave Barrack, 291. 


Oldbridge, 141. 


Q. 


Mullaghmast, 240. 


Old Con naught, 210. 




Mullaghmore, 75. 


Olderfleet C, 116. 


Queenstown, 343. 


Mullet, 163. 


Old Leighlin, 243. 


Quin, 310. 


Mullinavat, 250. 


Omagh, 62. 




Mullingar, 12?. 


Omeath, 38. 




to Portadown, 147. 


Oola, 272. 


R. 


to Sligo, 152. 


Oranmore, 128, 314. 




Mulroy, 95. 


Oratories, xlix. 


Raghly, 74. 


Multifarnham, 152. 


Oughterarde, 176, 220. 


Raheny, 19. 


Mungret, 296. 


Ovens, 345. 


Rahin, 226. 


Murlough B., 113. 


Owencarrow R., 88. 


Rakenny, 56. 


Murrisk, 193. 


Owenduff R., 189. 


Ram I., 105. 


Mu-kerrv, 344- 


Owenea R., 92. 


Ramsfort, 202. 


Mutton Isl., 168. 


Owengarriff R., 291. 


Randalstown, 102. 


Mylerstown C, 129. 


Owentocker R., 93. 


Raphoe, 86. 


Myrath, 98. 


Owvane R., 337. 


Ratass, 303. 
Rathaldron, 144; 
Rathcoole, 2 20. 


N. 


P. 


Rathcormack, 2^8. 
Rathdowney, 251. 


Naas, 22T. 


Pallas, 272. 


Rathdrum, 213. 


Nagles Mount, 269. 


Pallaskenry, 296. 


Rathfarnham, 16, 2co. 


Naran, 92. 


Palmerstovvn, 16. 


Rathfran, 162. 


Mar row- water C, 38. 


Paps, 279. 


Rathkeale, 298. 


Navan, 143. 


Parsonstown, 252. 


Rathlin I., 112. 


Nenagh, 323. 


Partry, 186. 


Rathmacknee, 206. 


Nephin, 19?, 198. 


Passage, 259. 


Rathmelton, 93. 


Nevinstown, T44. 


Passage West, 342. 


Rathmichael, 201. 


Newbliss, 56. 


Patrick's Well, 296. 


Rathmines, 16, 2c 0. 


Newbridge, 120, 214, 222. 


Pettigoe, 81. 


Rathmore, 146. 


Newcastle, 41, 220, 299. 


Phillipstown, 226. 


Rathmullan, 94. 


Newgrange, 139. 


Phoul-a-phooca, 221. 


Rathowen, 154. 


New Jnn, 147. 


Physical geography of Ire- 


Rattoo, 302. 


Newmarket, 278. 


land, ix. 


Ravensdale, 3 2. 


Newmarket Fergus, 310. 


Pigeon-holes, 74. 


Recess, 177. 


Newport, 194. 


Pilltown, 263, 277. 


Red Bay, 114. 


New Ross, 254. 


Places of interest, lviii. 


Red Hills, 224. 


Newrath Bridge, 212. 


Platten H„ 143. 


Red Lion, 61. 


Newry, 3?. 


Pleaskin, no. 


Reeks, 29?. 


to Belfast, 3?.. 


Pocket, 330. 


Rheban C., 240. 


Newry Canal, 34. 


Pomeroy, 63. 


Rhincrew, 266. 


Newton Pery, 307. 


Pontoon, 198. 


Richhill, 152. 


Newton Trim, 133. 


Portacloy, 163. 


Rindown C, 159. 



INDEX. 



357 



II I NV, MOV LAN. 

Bingmoylan, 296. 

1 K.. 155. 

vy\<\ 190. 

(own, 142. 
iring Water, ; ;6. 
Point, 34;. 
jr, j 5 
1 fttingham, 156. 
- ..; Doon, 
ky Hills, : 

i R., 99. 

na, 96. 
hereon, 2". 

l: -common, 159. 

;i. 
1: ; A.. 161. 

., 289. 

A.. 181. 

II. . !- . |OI. 

1. A . 1*6. 

I! - 

5,00. 

1 - v K., 194. 

strevor, 4^. 
1. [80. 

Round Towers, origin and 
. 1. 

■.ml Towera — 

A- . ." -J. 

Antrim, 104. 

1 Aranmore, 171. 

Ardmore, 265. 

Clondalkin, 220. 

Clonmachnois, 318. 

1 lyg rt, 297. 

• . odalough, 216. 

K Us, 145. 

K ilda 

K 148. 

B nh 

! ;. 24 

M 

B nun, 322. 



: . ,-2. 



I . 122. 





Tull herin, 248. 

Turl ,8. 

[6. 

4- 
I 

r, 1 21. 



s. 

Sai: 



BLIEVE. 

St. Edmonsbory, 120. 
St. Fintan's Church, 21. 
St. John's, 4? 
St John's Point, 82. 
st. Johnstown, 65. 
3t !v ■ In'a Bed, 218. 
St. Kieran'a Well, 146. 
St. Macdara's Church, 180. 

- Mullins, :"". 
St. Valery, 1 

St. Wulstan's, 120. 
Sallagh Braes, 115. 
Sail ins, 220. 
Sally Gap, 219. 

1 k, 19a 
Sal toes, 207. 
Salthill, 3, 169. 
Salthole, 117. 
S '. 46. 
Scalp, 219. 
Scariff, 522. 

■•a. J". 

- ittery 1., joo. 

- irloughstown, 1-4. 
Sean Caislean, 17 j. 

S r Kvran, 25 J. 
Sele EL, 147. 

D Churches, 215, 317. 
en Hogs, 303. 
Shanagolden, 300. 
Shane's C, 102. 
Shanid C, 300. 
Shankhill, 200. 
Shannon R., 1 24, 155, 296, 307, 
517, ?2i ; source, 61. 

Bridge, j 19. 

View, 254. 

Sheeby Mountains, 346. 

I., no. 
Bheephaven, 96. 
ffry, 191. 

L -kes, 335- 
. 215. 
Shillelagh, 214. 
Shimna EL, 42* 
Shinnagh, 279. 
Shinrone, 252. 
Shrnle, 185. 

tine Mountains, 323. 
Mills, f >-. 
Six Mile Bridge, 310. 
Six ."■ f >3- 

Mile Water, 105. 
ore, lxiv. 
k, 328. 
Skerries, 24. 

. 33S- 
Skreen, 199 

Hill, 1 

Skull, 1 

Ige, 11- 






1 BAMPTJLL. 

Slteve Baughta, 121. 
Slieve Bernagb, *2j. 
SUeve Bio »m, 2 
Slieve Callane, in. 
Slieve Croob, 47. 
slieve Daeane, 73. 
Slieve 1 tonard, 42. 
Sllevefelim, 27:. 
SUeveguaven, 4?. 
SUeve Gullion, ?2. 
Slieve League, 83. 
Slievemore, 196. 
Slieve-na-griddle, 4^. 
Slieve-na-man, 1.70. 
siirve Russell, 60. 
Slieve Snaght, 69, 91. 
Sligo, 70; abbey, 71. 

to Strabane, 70. 

Slish Mountain, 73. 

;e Head, 188. 
Smerwick, J04. 
Smithborough, 149. 

ni, 129. 
Sperrin Mountains, 100. 

Idle, 170. 
Spike I., 14?. 
Spire Hill, 225. 

k Mountains, 302. 
Staiguc Fort, 329. 
Stags, 163. 
Stillorgan, 200. 
Strabane, 65. 

to Killybegs, 85. 

Stradbally, 227. 
Stradone, 147. 

Lffan, 220. 

incaUy, 267. 
Strangford, 44. 
Stranorlar, 80. 
imstown, 1 24. 
own, 155. 

iel 4 r >. 

k 11., 160. 
Sulr EL, 274. 
Sullivan's Case., 288. 
Summerhill, 102. 
Sunville, ijo. 
Sutton, 19. 

anlinbar, 60. 

Ineford, 160. 
Swords, 23. 
Sydenham, 5:. 



T. 

I 6, T22. 

mon, 254. 
i . 168. 

! 1 Hill, 1 
I >■ 

J7« 
umpull I .171. 

6 



;>58 


INDEX. 




TEAMPULL. 


VALLEY. 


YOUGHAL. 


Teampull Brecain, 172. 


Travelling view, xl. 


Vartry, 212, 218. 


Teampull Chiarain, 172. 


Tray, 151. 


Ventry, 304. 


Teampull Deiscart, 263. 


Trew, 64. 


Victoria Bridge, 65. 


Teampull Mic Duach, 172. 


Trillick, 62. 


Villierstown, 267. 


Teampull Pholll, 172. 


Trim, 132. 


Vinegar Hill, 204. 


Teelin R., 83. 


Trimlestown, 132. 


Virginia, 147. 


Teltou, 144. 


Trostran Mount, 114. 




Templecarne, 81. 


TrubleyC, 134. 




Templecoran, 117. 


Trumery, 36. 


w. 


Templecrone, 91. 


Tuam, 315; cathedral, 315; 




Templefaughtna, 33$. 


cross, 316. 


Waringstown, 36. 


Templegeal, 305. 


Tulla, 322. 


Warrenpoint, 38. 


Temple Lodge, 158. 


Tullaghan, 75. 


Waterfall, 331. 


Temple Michael, 266. 


Tullamore, 225. 


Waterfoot. 14. 


Templemore, 228. 


Tullaroan, 247. 


Water ford, history and situa- 


Templenakilla, 328. 


Tulloherin, 248. 


tion, 257; harbour, trade, 


Templepatrick, 175. 


Tully C, 59- 


remains, cathedral, 258 ; 


Termonfeckin, 29. 


Church, 200. 


neighbourhood, convey- 


Termon M'Grath C, 81. 


Tumuli, xlvi. 


ances, 259. 


Thomastown, 248. 


Turlough, 198. 


Waterville, 327. 


Three Rocks, 200. 


Tuskar R., 207. 


Westport, 191, 


Three Sisters, 304. 


Twelve Pins, 178. 


Wexford, 205. 


Thurles, 228. 


Tynan, 150. 


to Cork, 254. 


Ticroghan, 13 1, 


Tyrawley, 162. 


White Abbey, 106. 


Tiniahoe, 227. 


Tyrone coalfield, 63. 


Head, 1 1 1. 


Timoleague, 334. 


Tyrone H., 314. 


River, 30. 


Tinarana, 323. 




Rocks, 107. 


Timiahely, 214. 




Whitegate, 343. 


Tinnahinch, 210. 


V. 


Wicklow, 201. 


Tintern A., 260. 




tour through, 207. 


Tipperary, 272. 


Upton C, 105. 


Wooden Bridge, 2 14. 


Tirraleen, 173. 


Urlingford, 251. 


Woodford, 321. 


Toberscanavan, 158. 


TJrris Hills, 69. 


Woodlands, 119. 


Tolka R., 19. 


Urrisbeg, 180. 


Woodlawn, 127. 


Tollymore, 42. 


Use Mountains, 278. 


Woodstock, 250. 


Toome, 103. 






Toombeola A., 180. 






Tore waterfall, 291. 


V. 


Y. 


Tormore, 85. 






Tory [., 98. 


Vale of Avoca, 213. 


Yellow river, 130. 


Tralee, 303. 


Valentia, 326. 


Youghai, 264. 


Tramore, 260. 


Valley of Diamonds, 210. 


to Cahir, 266. 



THE END. 



LONDON : PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, ST/ MFOED STREET, 

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: 1808. 



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INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 



■pFTKROAM — !'• .'- H til 

—Hotel de 1' Europe 

Bu> 



. a 



In i > k — Hotel Belvi 



Tape 
. 37 



Iapen— Hotel de Hollaii le 



£ — Hot.! dea 

i;-i 11 ' 
. . . - 

©tel d'Angleterre 

MB — i Musical Boxes . 31 

o . 

. . . 24 
Iorpk-vi \ — Hotel de Nantes . . 26 

Princes . . . . . 
Bbjkxz — Grossman:!- Wood Sculpt 6 
OXi — Hdti 1 de Belle Vuo 

.48 

IfcOtOXTC — II I 14 

■ — Farina's Eau de Cologne 'J 

Oaimstapt— Hotel ■!•• Darmstadt 34 
tem— Hdtel des Bains ... 

... ... 

.IduJura .... 



I— Hotel de Saxe . . . 



I Bean Bivage . 11 

Hotel Oibbon 4'» 

Hotel Bichemont 40 

rble Bfann- 

v 

d'Angleterre. . 26 

11 .... 40 
Hdtel Bchweizerhof .... 

Swan Hotel 41 

ION' — Grand Hotel I'.onne- 

Maison 44 

Lf< tel du Pare ... 53 

M\i>i.ii.i.i> — Grand Hotel Noailles 40 

Maykncf. — Hotel d'Angleterre . li> 

i tone — Hotel Grand Bretagne l- 

Hotcl de la MeVliterranee . . 4s 

Mr.r;/ — Hotel de l'Europe . . . 4"> 

Milan — HOtel Cavoar .... 4~> 

Hotel Qtande Bretagna . 

and Hdtel de Milan . . . -12 

Manini's Rep isitory .... 44 

:>>s . 43 

uii — Wimmi o . 7 



iths of 

ical latabUshrni nt . 



- 



11 
41 

I 



ft 



ManaCrtory of Stag- 

.... 
-Hdtel Soiumer . . 

. Jeweller. . . 
• Couronne 

I ... 

tel 4m Qnatn Nations 

j-e . 



7 

81 

41 



Nai -ent . . . US 

Hdtel Vitt .... 

Nil. ^7 

i Hone Hotel 

:x Mondesi . it 
il<- .... 26 
Iptor . 
•y, — Hotmail • M.mu- 
fjoaory 10 

iZ—HdU 1 lamina .... 19 

; . ■••'*■> Hi i 

i itbai UPC — HdtelSchwel 

37 

pa 4:« 

i 44 

IS 

l Hoti 1 

GUaat Maini- 

■rv 10 

il . . . 
l'llri< h'» Uiam V IM . .11 

Wu.dbad — Hotel Ktampp . 

Heme . . . C3 



LONDON'. 



it | — M'Ciacken 

Olivier and Cut 

Athen.-ciim 



Page 



10, 17 

»o 



7 B ''.\ ii and Pole m's Patent Flour 

Gary's Telescope .... 
Ohubbs Looksand Safes . 
C intinental E tKu r os s Agency 

Couriers and .Servants . . 

Foreign Books .... 
Heals Furniture and Bedsteads 



64 



Illustrated Testament . 

1 nsuranee Company. North British 30 



James, Electrician . . . . 

and Garter's Guide Depot. 

Mudie's Library 



Parr's Life rills 

Passport agency — Adams . 
Passport agency — DorreH . 
'iiev — Stanford 
r pular Works 

1' : b a ■■< '• Mb — Allen's . 

D . . 

Thi • entials for Ti 
ling 



23 

'JO 
is 
21 
61 

29 



25 



..■> 
21 

22 

2 

Lfi 



Bristol— 
The Boyal Hotel 

H— 

\ alley of Books Hotel | . . . 

Oxvoss — 

S].i. n' 01 u.iiiMiii.ii Manns 

BS 1-6 

B— 

m e and Hob I . \l 



U — 



{ — 
Antrim Anas Hotel . 



20 



n 









B 



8 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mar, 



FRANKFORT. 



P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, 

MHEifflAM FAHCY (£ILA§g AMB CRYSTAL 

WAlEHdDUJSEo 



P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, Manufacturer of Bohemian 
Glass, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an extensive 
Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of 

ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, 

BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED, 

In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Table 
and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful 
branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a 
continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in 
so high a degree during a considerable number of years, 

P. A. Tacchi's Successor has a Branch Establishment during the 
Summer Season at 

WIESBADEN, in the Old Colonnade, 

Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest 
Articles from his Frankfort Establishment. 

Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show 
Rooms of Mr. P. A. Tacchi's Successor. 



His Agents in England, to whom he undertakes to forward Pur- 
chases made of him, are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen 
Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 



186S. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



COLOGNE ON THE RHINE 



JOHAOT MARIA FARINA, 
GEGEXUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ 

(Opposite the Jiilich's Place), 

PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; 

TO II. Efc, H. THE PUINCE OF WALES; 

TO H. M. Tllb: KIXU OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; 

THE KING OF DENMAKK, ETC. ETC., 

OF THK 

ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, 

h gained the only PruN Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 136' 



'THE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most 
J- part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request 
the attention of English travellers to the following statement: — 

The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by 

my ancestor In the year 1709, ha^ induced many people to imitate it; and in order to be able 

to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro- 

iselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my namss 

which is a very common one in Italy. 

Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti- 
cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina, 
but also the additional words, gegenuber dem Jiilich's 1'latz (that is, opposite the Julich's 
Place\ without addition of any number. 

Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against 

being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services 

iem. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and 6hop are in the same house, 

.-ituated opposite the Julich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the 

said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where 

■iding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half par 
the price paid by the purch.. bo, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a 

high price and a bad article. 

Another kind of Imposition is practised In almost every bote] in Cologne, where wait 
commit . &c, offer to stra: tu de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine < 

and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. 

The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally ai I 
house, opposite the s J'lace, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Gtaldschmidf 

and Obcn Mar-pforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the t: 
higher ones bear my name, Johanh a. 

The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the 

one In London, -, awarded to me the Pfci ial ; 

that I obtained honourable I a at tl. bibition in i veU 

the only Prix • M dal aw. i Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhi! 

.January, - N MARIA FARINA, 

GEGENUBEB DEM JULICH'S PEAT/.. 

%• My Agency in I >n is «• 1, J. & K. IfCfUOnor, 38, Queen 

ect, Can >cct, J 



10 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

P R AG U E. 



WILLIAM HOFMANN, 

BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER, 

TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OP AUSTRIA, 

HOTEL BLUE STAR, 

Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in 
Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, 
at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments. 

Agents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon 

o lee , .O. Q oods forwarded direct to England, America, tyc. 

FLORENCE. 



JOHN AGLIETTI AND SONS, 

ARTISTS, 

GROUND FLOOR, No. 15, VIA MAGGIO, 

Have a large Collection of Ancient and Modern Original Paintings, and also Copies 
from the most celebrated Masters. 

Copies, Carved Frames, Gilt or Plain, made to order, and forwarded with 
despatch to all parts of the world. 

Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, of No. 38, Queen 
Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 

VI E N NA. 



The most extensive Warehouse for Bohemian White and Coloured 

Crystal Glass, 

J. & L. LOBMEYR, 

G LA SS IANUPACTUEERS, 

No. 13, KARNTHNERSTRASSE. 

All kinds of Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass; Table, Dessert, and 
other Services ; Vases, Candelabras,Chandelieis, Looking-glasses; Articles of Luxury, 
in Crystal Glass, mounted in Bronze, and in Carved Wood. They obtained the 
Prize Medal at the International Exhibitions of 1862 and 1867. 

The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. — The English 
language is spoken. 

their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, No. 38, 
Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London, will execute all orders with the 
greatest care and attention. 



1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. li 

VIENNA. 



BOUEIIIW CMLASS AND KKONZE WAREHOUSE. 

HEINRICH ULLRICH, 

LATE WILLIAM HOFMANN, 

GLASS AND BRONZE MANUFACTURER, 

No. 3, LUGECK, 

Kocommends his great assortment of Glass and Bronzo Ware In the choicest articles, in 
overy colour, shape, and description, specially adapted to the English and American taste, 
from his own manufactories in Bohemia and Vienna (for the Bronze). 

The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. 

He received at the last Paris Exhibition the Silver Medal for excellent execution and 
very cheap pri 

HKUlBIGB ULLRICH has a Branch Establishment during the Summer Season at 

BADEN-BADEN, 

No. 4, SOPHIEN STREET, xeau the ENGLISH HOTEL, 

where will always be found an extensive selection of the newest articles from his Vienna 
warehouse. 

The English language is spoken, and every information given with pleasure to travellers. 

He Bells only real Bohemian Glass, and not Hungarian Glass, which in many 
places is sold in substitution. 

Agents In Faris and New York. 

Agents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. 

ENGADINE, GRISONS, SWITZERLAND. 

BATHS OF ST. MOEITZ. 



to Coirt ''n' 1 Come. Dally Diligences fo and from Coire, 
Cli CoHco (Lake of Comd), 



I^IW IS .the: . it In Europe, are open from 15th June to 

15th September. Ti. Qpertor in their beneficial 

effects. ed with the brai untain air, to the similar and I of 

.valbacb, I' n ali disorders cbarai I l»ya want of tone. The comfort 

and excellence ot the H< I ting and Drinking Ar, uts are well known and oniver- 

sally ad m i. The s\ nmnnication with the stoam- 

beated Baths and Springs. Chm raph. I 

frequent carriage communication with the neighbouring villa ST. MORITZ^ whiofa 

also abund.. mfortable accommodation. Romant! ry. Magnificent tonrs in all 

fbf its sublime beauty, rich with 
Pt durable, and unaltered & n of tt<c bottled u il 

quarts (carriage e) at 10/r. and I fr. and 

F the Baths, see ' I rincipa] of Switzerland and S hy 

Edwin :idon.' 

hand as possible, I 
;jr bottled Director ol Uu W 

A ;cnt fo • 1 — 

lish and For- iry PI itli, E.C. 



12 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISEK. May, 



FLORENCE. 

MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI, 

ARTISTS, 

Wo. 8, VIA ROMATSTA, 

Opposite the Museum of Natural History (Specola), and near theFitti Gallery. 

Messrs. Costa and Conti keep the largest collection in Florence of original 
Ancient and Modern Pictures, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters. 
N.B. — English spoken. 

Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, 
Caunon Street E.C., London. 

MENTONE. 



HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE 

P. M. DAZXANO, Proprietor. 



100 BEDKOOMS, 15 SITTING-KOOMS. 

GOOD ACCOMMODATION. 

Beautiful and good Establishment, situated in the finest part of the Bay, 

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BY ENGLISH VISITORS. 

ENGLISH COMFORT AND ATTENDANCE. MODERATE CHARGES. 

MR. AND MRS. DAZIANO SPEAK ENGLISH. 



VENrCE. 

CARLO PONT I, 

OPTICIAN AND PHOTOGRAPHER, 

Who gained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862, and whose 
House is acknowledged to be the first of its kind in the City, has opened a new 
and large Establishment in Piazza di San Marco, Procuratie Nuove, in addition to 
that which he keeps in the Kiva dei Schiavoni, No. 4180, near the Albergo Reale 
Danieli. 

The Optical Instrument invented by him, and known under the name of the 

ALETOSCOPE, or MEGALETOSCOPE, 

has undergone such improvements as to render it (according to the judgment of 
intelligent persons) the most perfect thing of its kind, both for its simple con- 
struction and magnificent optical effects. 

Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street,] 
Cannon Street, E.C. 



1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 1:> 



ROME. 



J. P. SHEA, 

ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT. 

FORWARDING AGENT 
TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES, 

11, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. 

At this OlFice persons applying for 

Large or Small Furnished Apartments 

invariably obtain correct and unbiassed information on all matters connected with 

Lodging-Houses, Boarding-Houses, 

and 

Household Management, 

while 

Low and Fixed Charges 

for practical services offer safe and satisfactory assistance to Proprietor and Tenant, 

as testified by the increasing confidence of English and American Travellers 

since the opening of the establishment in 1852. 

Plans and Lists of Apartments sent by Post 

to persons who wish to secure accommodation, or avoid inconvenience at the 
approach of Carnival or the Holy Week. 

AS CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENT, 

Mr. Shea clears and warehouses 

Baggage and other effects 

for travellers who, to avoid the expense of quick transit, send their things by sea or 

luggage- train, directed to his care. 

He also superintends the 

Packing of Works of Art and other Property 

intrust- 1 to his care, and the forwarding of the so, me to England, &Ci ; and b i 
gent for M Barm and Mclyers' Italian line of steamers, can oiler 

facilities on the freight of packages between Italy and England. 



CORRESPONDENTS- 

v Messrs. J. k K. MCRACKEN, 88, Qui et, Gannon Street, 

Messrs. OLIVIER k GARB, 37, 1 injury Square. 

I.IVKKPOOL Messrs. BTAVELKY <v STARS • pel St • et. 

srs. JAS. MOSS ft I ver Buildings. 

FOI ..Mr. I Al'LK.V 

BOl" Mr. BERNARD, 18, Qo 

PA1 3 Messrs. LB II.K\. . s, 1 Mace de la Bourse. 

MAl:>i:iU.KS Messrs. GI RATI) FKE Kue Sainte. 

FD Mflsam HASH LIU 

HEW TORE Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN, & CO., 72, Broadway. 

BOSTON Mean, WELLS, FAROO, & CO. 






14 HURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mat, 



CHAMONIX. 



-K>*- 



GRAND H OTEL IMPERIAL 

HOTEL rMGLETERRE. 

HOTEL DE LA COUROIIE. 



I LOIDRI 




The above Hotels are now the property of a 

JOINT-STOCK COMPANY, 

WITH A SUPERINTENDING COMMITTEE OF MANAGERS. 



The new Proprietors of these 

MAGNIFICENT ESTABLISHMENTS, 

the 

LARGEST AND MOST IMPORTANT AT CHAMONIX, 

have spared no expense in fitting them up with every comfort modem experience 

could suggest, as well as supplying an 

EXCELLENT CUISINE, 

under control of a 

FIRST-RATE PARISIAN COOK, 

and in forming a 

CELLAR OF WINES OF THE FINEST QUALITY. 



The Apartments have been refurnished, and the Service is organised on the model 
of the first Hotels in Switzerland, and is placed under the 

direction of a 

MAiTRE D'HOTEL 

of proved experience, and fully equal to the onerous duties of his position. 



PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, BATHS, AND 

READING ROOMS 

supplied with the leading Journals of Europe and America, and arrangements to 

satisfy every taste. 

300 Rooms, ranging from 2 francs a bed and upwards, 



3. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15 



VISITORS TO NAPLES. 



-*c-»- 



NERAL AGENCY & COMMISSION OFFICE of the BRITISH LIBRAE Y 

n 1*37 by Mrs. Durant), 

DIRECTED BY 

GEORGE CIVALLERI, 

Palazzo Friozzi, No. 267, Riviera di Cliiaja. 

WORKS OF ART, GOODS, AND LUGGAGE 

warded to and received from all parts of the world, and warehoused at moderate charges 

of rent. 

BANK BILLS, CIRCULAR NOTES, AND LETTERS OF CREDIT 

cashed free of commission. 

COUNTRY WINES CP EVERY DESCRIPTION, 

both in Bottle and in Cask, for exportation, at reduced prices. 

FOLK! WIN1 WQLTSH BEERS, TEA-, j :, IMPORTED. 

Agency Business of -cription attended to; also the PURCHASE of LAN! 

HOUSES, or VILLAS for the account of Foreigners. 

Correspondents in London— Messrs. OLIVIER & CARR, 37, Finsbury Square. 



FLORENCE. 



12, XjTTICTG-' .A-IR-ICTO 2sTTJO"v r O. 



MONTELATICI BROTHERS, 

ittiiuufacturtrs of Jf toxxixtinc lilcrsirixs. 

ASSORTMENT 0? CASKETS AND ALBUMS. 
OMMISSIONS AND EXPORTATION. 



FLORENCE. 



EITCHIE. BAECHI, & CO.. 



ESSENTIALS 
TRAVELLING. 



Thresher's India Tweed Suits. 
yillaiUUll U (LnT . Thresher's Kashmir Flannel Shirts. 



Thresher's Kashmir Woollen Soc 
D PA resher's Coloured Flannel Shirts. 

Thresher's Travelling Bags. 
SOLD i BY 

THKESHEE & GLENfl 



•U Parts 



PIAZZA SANTA TEDHTA. I NEXT DOOH 7™™**" H008£ ' 



lt> MUKKAY'S HANDUOOK ADVERTISE!!. May, 



VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT. 



OLIVIER Ac GJkJEfcfi, 

37, Finsbury Square, London, 

(Mr. Olivier established in 1830,) 

COMMISSION MERCHANTS AND GENERAL AGENTS 

For Shipment and Reception of Goods to and from all Parts of the World, 
and IMPORTERS OF WINES, fa 

/"\LIVIEK & CAEE have the honour to inform 
" VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT 

that they undertake to receive and pass through the Customhouse in London, 

Liverpool, Southampton, &c, 
WORKS of ART, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION, 

which are attended to on arrival 
with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, 

under their own personal superintendence. They heg to call particular attention tc 

^ their Moderate Charges, 
which have given universal satisfaction. 
Many Travellers having expressed a desire to know in anticipation to what 
expenses their Purchases are liable on arrival in England, the following 

Rates of Charges on the Reception of Packages 

may be relied upon, for Landing from the Ship, Clearing, Delivery in London, 
and Agency : — 

On Trunks of Baggage about 9s. each. 

On Cases of Works of Art, &c, of moderate size and value . about 15s. „ 
„ „ of larger „ „ 20s, to 25s. 

On very large Cases of valuable Statuary, Pictures, &c, on which an estimate 

cannot well be given, the charges will depend on the care and trouble required. 

When several cases are sent together the charges are less on each case. 

OLIVIER & CARR undertake the 

FORWARDING OF PACKAGES OF EVERY KIND 

to the Continent, to the care of their Correspondents, where they can remain, if 

required, until the arrival of the owners. 

Also 
THE EXECUTION OF ORDERS FOR THE PURCHASE OF GOODS 

of all kinds, which, from their long experience as Commission Merchants, they 
are enabled to buy on the most advantageous terms. 
Pvesidents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering any- 
thing they may require from London. 

N.B. — The keys of locked Packages should always be sent to Olivier & Carr, 
as every thing, although free of duty, must be examined by the Customs on arrival. 

INSURANCES EFFECTED, and Agency Business of every description 

attended to. 



136S. 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



17 



OIjIVffKK 

At Aix-la-Cha} 

Alexa.iiria . 
Antwerp . 

Basle . 
Bologna. . 
Bordeaux 
Boulogne . 
Brussds . . 



cV CARR'S pr]?i<*ipa! C 1 ovrc*pou«l«ii3-. arc — 

. Messrs. A. SOUHEUK and CO. 

. Mr. J. \V. BROWNE. 

. Mr. R VERELLF.N BEERtfAKRT. 

Messrs. VLETJGELS and GUFFANTI. 
. Mr. J. J. FREY. 

ANTONIO MAZZETTI and CO. 
. Messrs. H. and 0. BEYERMAN and Wine Growi rs. 

L BRANLY and CO., Bl, Rue Napoleon- 
. Mr. G. LUYCKX. 24. Rue des Fabrigi 

Mr. L. STEIN, '22, Montasnede la Oour. 
. Messrs. MORY, TOre, Flls, and V0<; 
. Messrs. G H. VAX ZUTPHEN and CO. 

3. G. TJLMKS andCO. 
. M issrs. VAISAMACHY and CO., Galata. 
. Messrs. KRAETSCHMER and CO. 
. Messrs. HASKARD and SON, 4, Borgo li. 

^<r<. W. II. WOOD and CO. 
. Mr. MARTIN BECKER, 6, Blei isse. 

Mr. MORITZ R. G0LDSCHM1DT, Banker. 
. Messrs. JOLIMAY and CO. 
. . ssrs. G. B. PRATOLONGOand CO. 

Messrs. P. CAUVIN, MAM AN n, and COSTA. 

. Messrs. JULIUS WtiSTEtfFELD and CO. 
. Messrs. CHR. EGLtN and MAKING. 
. Messrs. RITSCHARD and BTJRKX 
. ? GERHARD and HEY. 

. HENDERSON BROTHERS. 
. I fc CO. 

. Messrs. GIRAUD FRKRES. 

Messrs. HORACE BOUCHET and CO. 
. Messrs. GIO. CURTI & FIG". 
. Messrs. GUTLEBEN and WEIDERT. 
. Mr. M. CERULLI, 267, Riviera di Chiaja. 

Mr. E. STOREY, 261, Riviera di Chi [le Tort). 

. Messrs. LES FIES DE CH. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur 
. Mr. J. DUCLOS ASSANDRI. [Martin, 43. 

. Messrs. LANGLOIS FIES FIBRES, Rue Act Marais St. 

M. HECTOR ETIERB1ER, 18, Rue de la J^ouane. 
. Mr. RERGEROT. 

. .Mr. J. J. SEIDE. Eibernerga ». icon. 

. Mr. J. P. SHEA, 11, Piazza di Spagna. 

Messrs. TOM BIN! and PRUCKMAYER. 
. Mr. J. A. HOUWENS; Mesas. P. A. VAX ES and CO. 
. :■.: MARTIN FR1 

. Mr. OH tBODO PIETRO, Via Dora Grossa, U. 
. Mr. HENRY DECOPPET. Mr. 1 ' rOLOMEJ DI I 
. Mr. AX ION POKORXY, Stadt Bonn. . J. 

es will also forward goods to 0. & C. on receiving instructions 
Traveller tedafa to give particular directions that their 

Packages are consigned direct to OLI VIE!: ;, 37, FINSBURY SQU 



Calais 
Cologne . 

Constant inojr^e 
Dresden . 
Florence . 

Frankfort 

Oneva . 

'XI 

ITamburg 
Ua vrt 

Leipgig . 

Leghorn . 
Malta 

Marseilles 

Mi 1 an . 
Munich . 
yaplts 

e . . 

Ostend . 

Paris . . 

I . . 
Prague . 
Borne . 

Rotterdam. 

Trieste . 
Turin 
ic6 
Vienna . 

Any other hou.- 






PRICES OF YV N ES IMPORTED BY 

OLIVIER AND CARR, 

AGENTS TO GROWERS. 

— • — per do*, duty paid. 

Claret, : jn.<?. 

Burgundy I urnoultn ail ine 

Hock 6l Moselle, Frew . . 24a, 

tt Spark 1. . . 48«. U> 

Champagne 48s. to 72*. 

JVXarsala, in < ... ,30*. 

Sherries, I Of Brown, in Q 42o. 

Claret, B r, and I 

Detailed Prict List* may be hid of 0. & :. Fintbmry Square. 



18 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



CHUBB'S LOOKS and SAFES. 

»o« 

Paris Exhibition, 1867, SILVER PRIZE MEDAL, 

• For perfection of ivorkrnanship and construction of Locks, also for the manufacture of 

Iron Safes.' 

Dublin International Exhibition, 1865, PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED, 

1 For excellence of vjoi'kmanship and design in Locks and Safes.' 

chubb! son, 

BY APPOINTMENTS, 

MAKERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. 
pHUBB'S PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS, the most secure from 

\J picklocks and false keys, are strong, simple, and durable, and made of all sizes and for 
every purpose to which a Lock can be applied. 

Trunks, Portmanteaus, Travelling Bags, Dressing Cases, Writing Desks, &c, fitted with 
only the usual common and utterly insecure Locks, can have the place of these supplied by 
Chubb's Patent without alteration or injury. 

Travellers' Lock-Protectors and Portable Scutcheon Locks for securing Doors that 
may be found fastened only by common Locks. 

CHUBB & SON have always in stock a variety of Writing and Despatch Boxes in 
Morocco or Russia Leather and japanned Tin ; the latter being particularly recommended 
for lightness, room, durability, and freedom from damage by insects or hot climates. 

Best Black Enamelled Leather Travelling Bags of various sizes, all wit 
Chubb's Patent Locks. Cash, Deed, and Paper Boxes of all dimensions. 

pHUBB'S PATENT SAFES 

\J are constructed in the very bests 
manner, of the strongest wrought-iron, 
fitted with Chubb's Patent Drill- pre- 
ventive and their Gunpowder-proof 
Steel-plated Locks, are the most 
secure from fire and burglary, and form 
the most complete safeguard for Books., 
Papers, Deeds, Jewels, Plate, and other 
valuable property. 

CHUBB & SON have also strong- 
wrought- iron Safes, without fire-resisting | 
lining, but equally secure in all other 
respects, intended for holding plate wherel 
protection from fire is not an object, and I 
affording much more room inside than I 
the Patent Safes. They are recom- 
mended specially in place of the ordinary wooden cases for plate, which may so easily be| 
broken open. 

BUENOS AYRES GOVERNMENT CERTIFICATE. 
Translation. 

We, the undersigned, at the request of Messrs. Jas. C. Thompson & Co., certify that thej 
Iron Safes of Messrs. Chubb & Son, London, of which these gentleman are Agents, weref 
exposed for several hours to the Fire that took place in the offices of the National Govern- 
ment on the evening of the 26th instant ; that in our presence they were easily opened withl 
their respective keys; that the moneys and important documents they contained were foundl 
in perfect order, and that these Safes are now in use iu the National Treasury Office.— Buenos| 
Ayres, 31 st July, 1867. 

(Signed) J. M. Drago, Treasurer of the National Government. 

Jose Tomas IIojo. 
Juan M. Alvarez. a true copy— A. M. Bell. 

— m 

Complete Illustrated Priced Lists of Chubb's Locks, Boxes, Safes, and other Manufactures y 

gratis and post-free. 

CHUBB and SON, Makers to the Bank of England] 
57, St. Paul's Churchyard; London ; E.G. 




1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19 



HOTEL ET PENSION TAMINA A EAGAZ, 



This First-class Hotel, conducted by 

IMCr. & Mrs. I^OCH^T-, 

contains a great number of large and small Bedrooms, Salons, 
Beading and Conversation Eooms : first-class Cuisine ; English, 
French, and German Newspapers. 

Hot and Cold Baths are in the Hotel. 

The Hotel is very well situated for Excursions on the Moun- 
tains ; in winter sledges. 

From 1st October to 1st June pension at 4 francs the day. 
The Hotel well heated in winter. German, French, &c, 
Lessons at a very moderate price. 

The Hotel is kept in English style, and all comfort is provided 
for families. 

Omnibus to the Station for every Train. 



GE NEVA. 



HOTEL DU LAC. 

Splendid view on the Lake and the Mountains ; opposite the 
Steamer pecially recommended to families, j^ Very reason- 

able prices. 

TABLE D'HOTE AT 12, 5, and 7 O'CLOCK. 

II. BPAHLINGBR, Propriktor. 
MAYENCE. 



HOTEL D'ANGT.ETERRE. 

HENRY SPECHT, Wine Merchant and Grower. 

This first-rate ... '; excellent Hotel combining every English comfort), attoated 
in tYoiit i est Hotel to the Steamboats and dose to the 

Railway Stations. From I Room ire Picttm ITiewi of the 

Qa and / .v >/•> taken in. The 

Table-d*H( I for its Genuine Rhenish Wines 

i Sparkling Hock, arhJch M . \ orta to Englan I af Wholesale Prices. 

C 2 



20 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



U&jl 



PLYMOUTH. 



THE EOYAL HOTEL. 



PATRONISED BY THE ENGLISH AND ALL THE CONTINENTAL 

PwOYAL FAMILIES. 



FIBST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, 






SITUATED IN THE MOST COMMANDING, HEALTHFUL, AND GENTEEL 

QUARTER OF PLYMOUTH. 

Sufficiently far (five minutes) from the Station to be free of its annoyances. 



HANDSOME COFFEE-ROO 
EXTENSIVE POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. 

CHARGES AS PER PRINTED TARIFF. 
An Omnibus attends every Train, and Carriages if ordered. 

S. PEAESE, Peopeietok. 

LACROIX and PALCONNET, 

J. LACROIX, SUCCESSOR, 

WARRANTED WATCH MANUFACTURER, 

2, BEL-AIR, 1st Floor, GEWEVA. 



GABY'S IMPROVED POCKET 
TOURIST'S TELESCOPE- 

{See * Murray's Handbook') 
Manufacturer of all descriptions of Mathe- 
matical, Surveying, and Optical Instruments, 
for the use of Naval and Military Officers, &c. 
Also the new Binocular Reconnoitring Field 
Glass, in Aluminium of exceeding lightness 
and durability, so highly spoken of by officers 
and other gentlemen : from 11. Is. ; ordinary 
metal from 2l. 10s. Gary's improved Achro- 
matic Microscope, with two sets of choice 
lenses, capable of defining the severe test 
objects; from 41. 4s. Travelling Spectacles 
of all kinds. 

Mathematical and Optical Instrument 
Maker to the Admiralty, Trinity House, 
Royal Military College, Sandhurst, Royal 
Geographical Society, Christ's Hospital, Tri- 
nity House, King's College, &c. ; and Optician 
to the Royal London Ophthalmic Hospital. 

GOULD & PORTER, Successors to CARY, 
181, STUAND, LONDON. 

Established upwards of a Century. 



FLORENCE 

. . M 

i o i 



A 



MOTEL BE L'OTIVEKS, 

VIA DI VITTORIO EMANUELE, 

At the western extremity of the City, 
and close to the Cascine. 



This Hotel was only opened in 
November, 186G, and will be found 
in all respects a first-class Estab- 
lishment. 



3. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 

PASSPORT AGENCY OFT ICE, 

LOXDOX, 59, FLEET STREET, E. C. 

Regulations gratis for obtaining Foreign Office Passports. 
pOUNTRY or LONDON Resi 

\J who desire to avoid trouble.' can, by for- 
warding a Bank ;i, or Oatifica 
Identity, have a PASSPORT obtained and vised, 
uatry Residents, by Ibis arrai ived 
the trouble of a personal at ten.; I the F 
port can be forward.? to them by T Rtgle). 
inlng Passport, .; Visas, If. each. 
Passports d, and 
Na red tii 

Passport Cases from 13. 6d. to 6s. each. 

• for traveller.-. 

THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. 

BRADSHAW S BRITISH and CONTINENTAL GUIDES and HANDEOOKS 

France, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany, Tyrol, 
IV.ris, London, xc. 

•lite Phrase Books, French, Italian, Spanish, and German. Is. each. 
- I »verland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 6s. 

Jbook to the Bombay Presidency and the North- West Provinces, Madras 
and Bengal, LQf. each. 
Kella. gler's Maps of Switzerland. Mate's Map of the Tirol 

Original Editio: 
Knapsacks, Rngs, Waterproof Goats, Door- fasteners, Handbags, Portmanteaus, &c. 

ase Books and Dictionar; 
Hai HAM-rooK to Europe and the East. 

DBS to England. Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. 
Works on Health-Resorts, Climates, and Waters. By Edwin Lee, M.D. 




Experienced Couriers engaged upon application. 

W. J.ADAMS (B:;adshaw's British and Continental Guide Office), 

LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E.C. 

Office Hours 8 to 7. Saturdays 8 to 3. 

THE CONTINENTAL DAILY PARCELS EXPRESS (established 1849), 
\GLAXD of the Belgian Government Railway and Royal 
ssian Post, and Correspondents of the Northern of France Railway, CONVEY 
by MAIL ;RY NIGHT (Sunday excepted), via DOV1 

TEND, Samples, Parcels, and Packages of all kinds between 
ENGLAND and all TINENT, at fixed Through rates, including 

all charges except Duties and Entries, Tables, with full instructions to seinl- 
to be had gratis, at 

Chief Office: 53, GEACECHUECII STREET, 
P. X. BRIDGE, *{jcr, to whom all communications should be address 

AGENTS AND CORRESPONDENTS :— 

"gent Circus (Universal Offic 

aul's Churchyard, and 150, Leadenhall Sfo 
Mai J. Joi NS05, 32, (. — & C<>., 32, Dale St; 

Prn and nil Germany.— ' 

Belgium.—* ephi 1 ■'. i> pedelaCour: 

-ANTV NT, Li! 

, and all other plac ~ in Belgium ilway Station. 

Holland. — in a 

Prance.- ndO.and Royal Mail Con 

4, Hue Rossini. Boulog: 

:iount I 
IIoi ishlng to obtain goods of 

1 irorr. 

.ton deli \. 

I / ' . , E . ',, cechurch Street, IttMcif, 1863. 






MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



May, 



Stanford's Foreign Office Passport Agency, 

6, CHAKING CROSS, LONDON, S.W. 



Passports (which are good for life) 
mounted on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, 
Morocco, or Russia Case, with the 
name of the Owner lettered on the 
outside, thus preventing injury or 
loss, as well as lessening the delay in 
examination abroad. 

For further particulars, including 
the Forms of Application, Cost of 
Passport, Visas, &c. &c, see Stan- 
ford's Passport Circular, 

which will he forwarded per post on 
receipt of One Stamp. 

STANFORD'S TOURIST'S CATALOGUE, 

Containing Title, Price, &c, of the Best Guide Books, Maps, Conversation Books, Diction- 
aries, &c. &c, published in the United Kingdom, the Continent, and America, Gratis on 

application, or free per post for One Stamp. 

London: EDWARD STANFORD, 6, Charing Cross, S.W., 
Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Survey Maps, and Admiralty Chart?. 




BADEN-BADEN. 

»o, 

Hotel de Hollande : Proprietor, A. Roessler. 

THIS favourite and first-class Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Pro- 
menade, and Theatre, commands one of the most charming views in Baden. The increase of business 
rendering it necessary to enlarge the Hotel, it now consists of more than a hundred sleeping apartments, 
elegant sitting-rooms, and a garden for the use of visitors. Comfortable Public Sitting Rooms. It is con- 
ducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, who endeavours, by the most strict attention 
and exceedingly moderate prices, to merit the continued patronage of English visitors. ' Tbe Times ' and 
other Journals. The Wines of this Hotel are reputed of the best quality in Baden. Fixed moderate charges 
for evervthing. 

Breakfast, 42 krs. Table d'H6te at One, 1 fl. 24 kr. ; at Five, 1 fl. 48 kr. 

Mr. Augustus, remaining sole Proprietor, will spare no pains to deserve the confidence of English Travellers. 
English is spoken. 

Open during the Winter. 



BERLIN. 



HOTEL ROYA.L. 

Proprietor: Mr. FEIEDEICH IANGE, 
UNTER DEN LINDEN, No. 3, and corner of Wilhelm Street. 

This Hotel is in the best situation of the town, near the Promenade, the King's Theatre, 
the Museum, &c ; it is most elegantly furnished, and offers good accommodation for all 
classes of travelleis. Saloons and large apartments for Families. Waterworks and Baths in 
the Hotel. Carriages. Table d'hote at 3. Private dinners and suppers at any hour. Good 
English cuisine, and French restaurant in an elegant saloon. Prompt attendance and mode- 
rate prices. 



18(& MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. -< 



v^ A ^P " 



3 

<T> 

3 



M ^k. m I B / V 4V at ^» C 

/ /*\ % g 

/ TRADE. MARU\ B S, 

" ••-• u ii a M f° 

- ^ ■* O 

- I» c+ 

& . _ __, __. . Si g 

Pi 



o 



PATENT 



2 






CQ bo 

p CORN FLO ITO '- 

Paisley, Manchester, Dublin, & London. 

ooV^OO 



I 



This favourite article of Diet is especially suitable for 

PUDDINGS, CUSTAKDS, BLANCMANGES; 

and, being very light and of easy digestibility, it is 

recommended for 

BREAKFASTS, SUPPERS, &c, 

■ which it is easily prepared, requiring only to be boiled with 

milk for eight minutes. 

It is preferred for all the purposes to which the best Arrowroot 
.is applicable, and prepared in the same manner. 

Tor various purposes, such as to thicken Soups, Sauces, Beef-tea, 
., it is invaluable, and extensively used in all parts of the world. 



CAUTION. — To obtain extra profit by the sale, other kinds are 
sojietimes substituted instead of BROWN and POLSON'S. 



24 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



Mnv, 



BONN ON THE RHINE, 



MR. SCHMITZ, 

PROPEIETOE OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, 



Begs leave to recommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The apart- 
ments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms are 
carpeted ; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine- 
cellar, is well provided. Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no first- 
rate Hotel on the Rhine w T ill be found more moderate charges and more 
cleanliness. 

The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following 
Members of the English Royal Family : — 



1857. Oct. 16 



{ 



H. 



ni. 



1857. Aug. 20 < 

1857. Aug. 8 H. 

1857. July 29 j l ' 

1857. July 29 j H ' 

rH. 

1857. July 15 < 

1856. Nov. . { H< 

1846. June 18 < 



1818. May . . H 

1825. March j H 

and Sept. . ( 

1834. July . . ^ 



3 836. Aug. 
1837. July. 

1839. Nov, 

— Nov. 

1840. . . . 

1841. 
1841. 

1844. 



H 

II 
II 
II 






H 
H 
H 
H 



C H 

1845. June . -J 

1847. July j * 



R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by General Sir W. Codrington, 

Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Armstrong, Rev. F. C. 

TARVER,«Mr. Gibbs, etc 
R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite paying a visit at the Golden 

Star Hotel to His Majesty the King of the Belgians. 
R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite. 
R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mart of Cambridge, 

accompanied by the Baron Knesebeck and Suite. 
R. H. the Prince of Wales paying a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to 

T. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mary of Cambridge. 
R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by the Right Honourable C. 

Grey, General Major, Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. 

Armstrong, Rev. F. C. Tarver, Mr. Gibbs, etc. 
R. H. Prince Alfred of Great Britain, accompanied by Lieutenant- 

General Sir Frederick Stovin and Lieutenant Cowell. 
, M. Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Great Britain, accompanied by 

His Highness Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, Lord and Lady Bar- 

rington, Sir David Davies, M.D., Rev. J. R. Wood, M. A., Captain 

Taylor, &c. &c, honoured the above establishment with a Three 

Days' Visit. 
, R. H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite. 
, R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Clarence (King "William IV. and 

Queen Adelaide) and Suite. 
, M. Queen Adelaide, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of Eerol, 

Earl and Countess of Denbigh, Earl and Countess Howe, &c. 
, R. H. the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite. 
R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 
, Pv. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suite. 
, R. H. Prince Albert of Saxe Coburg Gotha, accompanied by Prince 

Ernest of Saxe Coburg Gotha, and their Snite. 
. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge, accompanied by the Princess Augusta 

of Cambridge, and their Suite. 
, R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the 

Prince of Letningen. 
. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 
. R. H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge. 
. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 
. R. H. Princess Mary of Cambridge. 
. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the 

Prince of Leintngen. 
R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, with their Family and 

Suite. 



IS' 



MURRAY'S HANDIiOOK ADVERTISER. 






MU DIE'S SELECT LIBRARY, 

BOCKS FOR ALL READERS. 



FIRST-CLASS SUBSCRIPTION 

FOR A CONSTANT SUCCESSION OF THE NEWEST LOOKS, 
One Grxxinea per ^LxiniTiii, 

►MMENCING AT ANY DATE. 
BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS. 



CHEAP BOOKS.— NOTICE. 
FIFTEEN THOUSAND VOLUMES 
BOUND BOOKS FOR PRESENTS AND PRIZES. 

00 [NG CHIEFLY OF 

WORKS OF TKE BEST AUTHORS, 
N'D MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND VOLUM] 

of Surplus I of Books of the Past Season, 

ARE NOW OX SALE AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES. 

■:s postage free on Application. 



XDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY, New Oxford Street, London. 
CITY OFFICE— 4, King Street, Cheapside. 

LAKE OF COMO, BELLAGIO. 

GREAT BRITAIN HOTEL. 

LAltGE and Small Apartments, Leading, Billiard, and 
Smoking Rooms, Baths in the Hotel and on the Lake. Divine Service 
ace to the Established Church throughout the year. This hotel is beauti- 

fully situ jring at once a full and splendid view of tiie Lake and of the 

vill belloni, and Sommariva. 

The Hotel, havi d recently enlarge!, will affi >le comfort to 

angers during their stay on the Lake. T • in the Hotel. 

Proprietor: A. MELLA. 



NUREMBERG. 



RED HORSE HOTEL 

(Rothes Ross), 

Pkoprietob : M. P. GALIMBERTI. 

This excel lei :• larters of the 

town, is well I Families making a visit to Noremborg of 

will Bud • fort and 

ad Tiiv. t all I 

will be found well • itronag isii 

travellers of the highest rank during ma: 



26 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



May, 



ANTWERP. 

HOTEL dTTeHOPE, 

Next to the rost Office. 

The Most Agreeable Situation in 
the Town. 

Formerly Hotel du Pare. 

This Hotel has been rebuilt, a magnificent 

Salle a manger added, as well as many Bed 

and Sitting Rooms, entirely new furnished 

and redecorated ; and the present Proprietor 

spares no exertion to render it one of the 

most popular hotels on the Continent. 

Excellent Table d'Hote. 

Hot and Cold Baths. 

Stabling and Coach-House. 

English and French Newspapers. 



BORDEAUX. 



HOTEL DE 



x ; iEST-CLAssHoTEL,most delightfully situated, 
facing the Port, in the centre of the City, near 
the Promenades, the Exchange, and Theatres, 
lias a good Restaurant and a large Stock of 
Wines. 

Large and Small Apartments, Sitting Boom 
for Conversation, &c. &c. 

Attendants speaking several languages. 

LUCERNE. 



ENGLISCHEE HOP.— HOTEL 
d'ANGLETEEEE. 

Proprietor— JEAN KEBEK. 

HpHIS First-rate Establishment, very 
X well recommended by the best class of 
Travellers, is situated close to the Steamers' 
Landing-place, and vis-a-vis the Railway Sta- 
tions, on the loveliest position of the Lake, 
with superb views of the Rigi, Pilatu?, Alps, 
and Glaciers; contains several Saloons, G2 
comfortable Rooms, Smoking aud Reading 
Rooms, where are French and English news- 
papers. 



Charge for Booms per diem, 


lfr. 50c. 


to 3fr. 




Table d'Hote, at 1 ... 


Mr. 


„ 430 . . 


4fr. 


,, ,, 7'30 . . 


3fr. 



The ' Times,' ' Galignani,' * V Indepen- 
dence,' the ' Bund,' and other German, 
French, and American papers are taken for 



OXFORD. 

SPIERS AND SON, 

102 & 103, HIGH STREET, 

Respectfully invite TOURISTS to VISIT 
their Extensive Warehouses for Useful and 
Ornamental Manufactures, suitable for Pre- 
sents and remembrances of Oxford. 

Copies of every published Guide-Book and 
Map of the City and neighbourhood kept. 
Photographs, &c, kept in stock. 

Inventors and Manufacturers of the cele- 
brated " Oxford Cyclopean Washstands." 

Information relative to Oxford afforded to 
strangers visiting their establishments. 

FLORENCE. 



P. EOMANELLI, 

Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, the late 
Professor Bartolini, has opened a Gallery, 

Lung' Arno Guicciardini, No. 7. 

The intelligent amateur will find there a 
Collection of Statues, both originals and copies, 
artistically executed. 

Principal Works : — The Son of William 
Tell ; the Young Franklin ; the Young Wash- 
ington ; the Young Whittington ; the Young 
Napoleon ; the Young Moses ; Garibaldi. 



GALIGNANI'S 

W PARIS GUIDE. 



the Reading Room. 



Compiled from the best authorities, revised 
and verified by personal inspection, and ar- 
ranged on an entirely new plan, with Map 
and Plates. Royal 18mo. 10s. 6d. bound ; or 
with Map only, 75. 6d. bound. 

London : Simpkin, Marshall, & Co. 



ROTTERDAM. 
H. A. KRAMERS, 

Importer of Foreign Books. 

Mr. Murray's ' Handbooks for Travellers, 
Bradshaw's Monthly Railway Guides, Bae- 
deker's 'Reischandbiicher,' and Hend£- 
chel's ' Telegraph,' always in Stock. 

English, French, and German Books im- 
ported Weekly, and a great variety of New 
Books kept in Store. 

47, GELDER3CHE KADE. 



18HS. 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



•:: 



By Appointment to H.R. H. 




The Prince of Wales. 



&A^i? 



ALLEN'S PORTMANTEAUS. 

37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES of 500 ARTICLES Post Free. 



*1 



ALLEN S 
PATENT 

BAG „ 




ALLEN'S PATENT ALLEN'S PATENT 

BAG. DESPATCH-BOX DESK. 



ALLEN'S PATENT 
Quadruple Portmanteau. 





i 



:\™Wc 



%h 



SOLID LEATHER 
DRESSING-CASE. 



RAILWAY 
PORTMANTEAU. 






i^u.* S 




ALLEN'S 
DRESSING BAG. 



ALLEN'S SOLID 

MAHOGANY 
DRESSING-CASE. 



LADY'S 

WARDROBE 

PORTMANTEAU. 



AJJBO 



Allen's Barrack Furniture Catalogue, for 
Officers joining, Post Free. 

PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED, 1862, 

FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE 



28 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

RELAN D. 



■^o*- 



AJSrCTZITML ABtlMS HOTEL, 

PORTRUSH. 

THIS Hotel is beautifully situated, having an uninterrupted 
view of the Atlantic Ocean, the Giant's Causeway, the Skerries, and Lough Foyle. 

It contains upwards of 100 Apartments, 

Principally facing the Sea. 

A NOBLE COFFEE-ROOM, 

with Drawing-Rooni attached, equally available for Ladies and Gentlemen. 

Table d'Hote daily during the Season. 

Cuioine and Wines First-Class. Terms moderate. French spoken. 

E>il!Iaa*d ami Ssiiokiiag E&ooms* 

THE SEA BATHS, 

Kecently rebuilt on the llotel Grounds, by Mr. Brown, will be found to contain every 
modern improvement. Separate Apartments for Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot 5 Cold, Shower, 
and Douche Baths. The Superintendents in each Department being people of experience, 
visitors to the Baths may depend on every attention. 

Extensive Posting and Livery Establishment in connection with the Hotel. 
A Vehicle to the Giant's Causeway and back daily during the Season. 
Visitors to the Hotel are respectfully requested to he particular in inquiring for the ANTRIM 
ARMS HOTEL Omnibus. It attends all Steamers and Trains, for the conveyance of 
Passengers to the Hotel free. 

J. BROWN, Pkoppjetok. 

Portrush is the nearest Railvjay Station to the Giant's Causeway. 



London and South-Western Eailway, 

LONDON STATION, WATEKLOO BRIDGE. 



The Cheap and Picturesque Houte to 

PARIS, ROUEN, HONFLEUR, AND CAEN, 

Via SO UTHAMP TON and HA VRE. 

Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, the last Train from London at 9 p.m. 

Fares throughout (London and Paris)— First Class, 30/0 ; Second Class, 22/©. 
Return Tickets (available for one month)— First Class, SO/ ; Second Class, 36/. 



JERSEY, GUERNSEY, AND ST, MALO, 

MAIL SERVICE, 

Via SOUTHAMPTON— The favourite Route. 
Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. 

Fares throughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey)— 32/ O First ; 23/0 Second Class. 
Return Tickets (available for One Month)— 48/0 First ; or 38/0 Second Class. 

The Last Train from London in time for the Steamers leaves at 9 p.m. 

For further information apply to Mr. I>e Voulle, 3, Place VendSme, Paris. — Mr. Langstaff, 
47, Grand Quai, Havre. — Mr. Enault, Honfleur.-^-Mr. E. D. Le Couteur, Jersey. — Mr. 

Spencer, Guernsey. Captain Gaudin, St. Male. Or to Mr. E. K. Corke, Steam Paciet 

Superintendent, Southampton. 




18>^. 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



29 



FURNITURE 

FOR 

INDIA, CHINA, &c 



HEAU * SON 

Manufacture, ESPECIALLY FOB EXTREME CLIMATES, 

SOLID MAHOGANY FURNITURE, 

Entirely free from Veneer. A large general assortment always on view. 



wesm otb BS& 



wsaam 



In the Choicest Designs. 2500 Bedsteads kept in Stock. 



HEAt & SON'S 

patent gnrscljair ftlattrcss 

Prevents the material from felting into a mass, as is the case in all ordinary 
Mattresses. The Patent Mattresses are made of the very best Horsehair, are 
thicker than usual, and the prices are but a trifle higher than those of other good 
Mattresses. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES 

Of Bedsteads and Bedroom Furniture, designed for INDIA and th- ST, sent 

Post Free to every part of the World. 



HEAl * SON* 

BEDSTEAD, BEDDING, AND BEDROOM FURNITURE 

MANUFACTURERS, 

190, 107, 193, TOTTKMLUI-0)U;T-: 10AD, .JJOX, W. 









30 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

llorfb |i.vitbb # ||Urcantik fixsitrmra Compni)* 

ESTABLISHED in 1809. 

Incorporated by JRoyal Charter and Special Acts of Parliament. 



CAPITAL, TWO MILLIONS. 

ACCUMULATED FUNDS £2,754,237. 

ANNUAL REVENUE £712,848. 



DIRECTORS. 

JOHN WHITE CATER, Esq., Chairman. 
CHAS. MORRISON, Esq., Deputy Chairman. 



P. Dm Pre GRENFELL. Esq. 
A. KLOCKMANN, Esq. 
JOHN MOLLETT, Esq. 
J. S. MORGAN, Esq. 
J. H. W. SCHRODER, Esq. 



JAS. DU BUISSON, E? q. 
GEORGE YOUNG, Esq. 
A. H. CAMPBELL, Esq. M.P. 
PHILIP C. CAVAN, Esq. 
GEORGE G. NICOL, Esq. 



Manager.-G. H. WHYTING. ,| Foreign Superintendent. -G. H. BURNETT, 

Manager of Life Department.— A. J. RUSSELL. 

Secretary.— F. W. LANCE. 

General Manager.— DAVID SMITH. 



LIFE DEPARTMENT. 

THE PRINCIPLES on which this Company was founded, and on which 2t 
continues to act, combine the system of Mutual Assurance with the safety of a 
large Protecting Capital and Accumulated Funds, and thus afford all the facilities- 
and advantages which can prudently be offered by any Life Assurance Office. 
Under these principles the business of the Company continues rapidly to increase. 

NINETY PER CENT, of the WHOLE PROFITS is divided among the Assured 
on the Participating Scale. 

The PROFITS are divided every five years. NEXT DIVISION 31st December,. 
1870. 

POLICIES INDISPUTABLE after Five Years. 

Every facility given for Foreign Travel and Residence. 

ANNUITIES of all kinds are granted, and the Rates fixed on the most favour- 
able terms. 

FIRE DEPARTMENT. 

PROPERTY OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, at Home and Abroad, Insured at 
the most moderate Rates. 

The NETT PREMIUMS for 1867 amounted to £333,984. 

The INCREASE on the amount of Fire Insurance Duty paid by this Company 
during the year 1866 as compared with 1865 v;as larger than that of any other 
Company in the United Kingdom. 



Prospectuses and every information can be obtained at the 

€\uf Mm : 

LONDON: 61, THREADNEEDLE STREET, E.G. 
„ West-End Office: 8, Waterloo Place, S.W. 

EDINBURGH: 64, PRINCES STREET. < 



lb- 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



1 



BERNE (Switzerland). 



J. H. HELLER'S EXHIBITION 



OK HIS CELEBRATED 



MUSICAL BOXES 



OF EVERY DESCRirilOX, 



And of SCULPTURES in WOOD, SWISS WOOD 

MODELS and ORNAMENTS in the 

richest Style. 



Mr. J. H. HELLER at Berne, Manufacturer of the celebrated 

MUSICAL BOXES with the latest improvements, &c. <fcc., 

- to invite the Xobility and Gentry of England, travelling in 

Switzerland, to visit his well-known Establishment at Berne, where will 

be found the largest and richest assortment of his celebrated MUSICAL 

BOXES, playing from 2 to 75 airs, with or without Chimes, Drm. 

imes and Castagnettes, Celestial Voices, Mandolines, Expressives, 

I an extensive Selection of Swiss SCULPTURES IN WOOD, 

Swiss Chalets, Cuckoo-clucks, Drawing-room Clocks, Table--, (hairs, 

rery possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of 

nufacture. 

Mr. Heller's Corretj eni ond Sole Agent for Great B\ 

J ' , ' i md and the lies it 

MR F. W. HEINTZ IX LONDON, 
102, London Wall, E.C., 

whom purchases made of Mr. Belleb will I irded exclusively, 

will be happy to undertake the safe d all articles 

intrusted t" his care. 



32 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. liny, 

IS .A. J? L ES S. 

HOTEL V I T T O R I A, 



This Hotel, founded in 1823, occupies a magnificent position in the finest quarter 
of the City, with the sea on the south, the Public Garden and the Riviera di 
Chiaja on the east, and enjoys a well-merited reputation. It has the means of 
accommodating a large number of families as well as single men. Several large 
salons adjoin the most complete appartements, richly decorated with artistic taste, 
and adorned with remarkable paintings. Meals at Table-d'hote or in the private 
apartments. 

The Proprietor begs to observe that, while the resources of an Hotel so much 
frequented enable him to, entertain travellers in the most sumptuous fashion, 
those who travel with a due regard to economy may profit by the excellent cuisine 
and service of the Hotel, and yet be furnished with smaller rooms and a rez-de- 
chaussee at moderate prices. 



)«^OC 

HOTEL DU JURA 



ME. DAVID, Proprietor. 



This Hotel, which has been considerably enlarged, is a first-class 
house, and the nearest to the Railway Station. Contains five Salons, 
sixty Bed-rooms en suite, for families, Drawing-room, Smoking-room. 
Table-d'hote ; Private Service. Carriages for Drives ; Omnibus to all the 
Trains, French, English, and German Papers. English and German 
spoken. Bureau de Change in the Hotel, where English Bank Notes can 
be exchanged. A first-rate cellar of the finest Burgundy Wines. 



, 



—— - 



18 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



33 



FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. 

»o« 

rRAYELLERS may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in 
England at the same prices at which they are published in Germany or France, 

WILLIAMS & NORGATE 

have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock : — 



1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 

2. THEOLOGICAL CATA- 

LOGUE. 

3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. 

4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. 

5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC 

CATALOGUE. 

6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. 

7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. 

8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 

9. ART-CATALOGUE. Ait. Archi- 

tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. 



10. NATURAL HISTORY 

CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo- 
iy, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe- 
matics, &c. 

11. MEDICAL CATALOGUE. 

Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen- 
dent Science-. 

12. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele- 
mentary Books, Maps, vv 

13. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU- 

LARS. New Books, and New 
Purchase -. 

14. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU- 

LARS. New Books and Recent 
Purchases. 



ANY CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP. 

WILLIAMS & NORGATE, Importers of Foreign Books, 
14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 

20, South Frederick Street, Edinburgh. 

GENEVA. 



-•<>♦- 



MOULINIE AND LEGRANDROY'S 

WATCHMAKING ESTABLISHMENT, 

/■'' I in the Tear 18< 9, 

23, Quai des Bergues, Geneva, and 89, Strand, 

(' Fxeter HaU,) London. 

CHRISTIAN LANGE, Sole Agent. 

TBIS ble firm, one of the oldest in ommendn itself for its 

eUent tions in WATCHMAKING, for which it has obtained hret-< 

prizes at nearly all the Universal Exhibitions. They are makers to nearly all 
Europ 

F LOli E N ( ! E. 

♦ 

Messrs. Anthony Sasso & Son, Artists, 

4, VIA DI BOEGO OGNI8SANTI, 

ibition 

ry in t 
bra ted pictures in the Public Gallon . ..utilul ami-nl 

ca'. fcO. • 

ENGLISH SPOKEN. 

Agents a> I and America— 

Messrs. J. ft R. 0. 

aiBMAJ WIN, i York. 



H MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

HEIDELBERG. 

PRINCE CHARLES HOTEL. 

(In the Market Place, nearest to the Castle.) 

WITH THE BEST VIEW OF THE RUINS. 
r FHIS first-class Family Hotel, patronised by their Royal 

1 Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales and Prince Alfred, Is without question 
the largest and best situated Establishment in the town for families and individuals who 
visit the celebrated Castle, or making a longer stay, being near all the attractive points, and at 
the foot of the Castle. It contains large and small apartments of all descriptions; its rooms 
are light, airy, cheerful, and truly comfortable ; and the Hotel is conducted on the most liberal 
scale under the personal superintendence of the Proprietor, Mr. C. H. SOMMEK. 

Superior Table-d'hote at 1 P.M. and 5 p.m. Warm Baths in the Hotel. Reading-room 
supplied with London ' Times.' and * Galignani's Messenger.' Two Dining-rooms (in one of 
them no smoking allowed). Fresh trout in the pond. Prices moderate. English spoken. 

BERLIN. 



HOTEL D'ANOLETERRE, 

2, PLACE AN DEE, BAUACADEMIE, 2. 

SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND MOST ELEGANT PART OF THE TOWN, 
Next to the Eoyal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. 

Single travellers and large families can be accommodated with entire suites of Apartments, 
consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, &c, all furnished and carpeted in the best 
English style, First-rate Table-d'Hote, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and Galignani's 
Messenger taken in. Residence of Her British Majesty's Messengers. 

It. SIEBELIST, Proprietor. 

DARMSTADT, 

HOTEL DE DARMSTADT. 

Proprietor— Mr. L. WEINER. 

FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT FOR FAMILIES AND TOURISTS. 

RECOMMENDABLE IN ALL RESPECTS. 

FRANKFORT O. M. 



MR. C. A. LOHR, 

PROPRIETOR OF 

THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL,' 

Begs to recommend his House to English Travellers. 
This large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate 
superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, aud 
a new splendid Dining-room. 

The " Roman Emperor" is often honoured by Royal Families and other high 
personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel — 

H.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WURTEMBERG. 

H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. 

H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WURTEMBERO. 

H.I.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c. &c. &c. 

Table-d'hote at 1, Ifl. 30kr. Breakfast, 42kr. 

5. 211. Tea, &2kr. 

Bed Rooms, from lfl. to 3fl. 



1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 

REMARKABLE CURE of CAPT. SAUNDERSON. 

" ( 1,ro, n'<le Office, Ooleraine, January 20th, 1868. 

" (iF.Nrr.i mi\.- A remarkable case of Rheumatism lias come under my notice to-day, ami, 
as I have permission to send it to you for publication, I do so. hoping it may benefil others. 

"Mr. William Sannderson, Captain of the schooner ' alary Maria,' of Newcastle-on-Tyne, 
at present taking in cargo at Rortrusb, purchased of mo a box of PARR'S LIFE PILLS, and 
he told me that three months ago he was oblige d to use crutches to enable him to walk, and 
that he suffer, d greatly from Rheumatism. A friend of his. seeing him in this sad state, 
advised him to try PARR'S PILLS; he did so, and before he had finished taking ibe 
first box he thi le the crutches. He is now active and Btrong, and can walk miles 

without resting. Since he commenced taking the Tills he has gained eleven pounds in 
weight, looks younger, and feels better in every way. 

" I am, Gentlemen, yours truly J. M'COMBIE." ' 

• Propr I". ROBERTS & CO., 8, Crane Court, Fleet Street. London. 

PARR'S LIFE PILLS may be obtained of any Medicine Vendor, In boxes, u, \±d., 2s. 9&, 

and in Family Packets, LIS. each. Directions with each box. 

BRISTOL. 



:roy.a.i, hotel, 

COLLEGE GREEN. 

Containir Apartments, situate in the most pleasant part of the City, near all the 

Public Duildings, and in the main thoroughfare from the Railway Station to Clifton. 

(FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL.) 

W. SWA3STSON, Manager. 
The Bristol College Green 

Hotel Company, Limited. 

LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. 
THE VALLEY OF HOCKS HOTEL. 

JOHN CROOK, Proprietor. 

This First-class Hotel combines with M< derate Charge? all necessary moans for the accom- 
modation and comfort of Families and Tourists. The Private Sitting Room 58 in a 1 
fitN ' lookinc the Sea, and looking into the Private Grounds of the Hotel. Here the 
ivmands extern d uninterrun? of the Bristol Channel, the Welsh 
'and the V ' the East and West Lynn, fee The Hotel is also mosl con? niently 
toate as a centre for the visiting of all tli s of Interest In the di-trirt. 

Go •' Eortes and Carriages of lariouid 

Oaehes during the season to Hfracondn, Barnstaple, and the West Somerset Railway. 



BORDEAUX. 



HOTEL DES PRINCES ET DE LA PAIX. 

GI.'KMAII.LY FILS AIN8, Proi-rim- 

This is an HoM of the fust rank, in the centre of the t. \vn, facing the Grand 
Theatre and the Prefecture. 

ent Table-d'l I Six. Restaurant an<l Private 1 .'it moderate 

prices. The Times newspap 

dents in London — Mi . J* Ji P. M 38, Queen 

Cannon Street, 

S3. — The various types of trie Mi.i'OC WlSEfl may b- I in this Hotel, 

d a 



36 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

Ml LAN. 



HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNA, 

VIA TORINO. 

Near the Cathedral, in the centre of the City. 

This old-established Hotel, much improved of late, is clean, comfortable, and 
with moderate charges, close to the English Church. Newspapers (' The Times ' 
and ' Galignani '), Table-d'hote, and Baths. English spoken. 

N.B. — The Omnibus of the Hotel is always in attendance at the Railway Station. 

ELECTRICITY IS LIFE. 

NATURE'S Eemedy rendered applicable to the Cure of all 
NERVOUS AILMENTS, INDIGESTION, HEAD COMPLAINTS, DEPRESSION OF 
SPIRITS, GJDDINESS, &c. &c, by means of THE PATENT ELECTRIC BELTS, which 
supply the system with VITAL ELECTRICITY, and that without useless machines, 
batteries, shocks, plates, or wires. 

Full details free. Call or write. Mr. H. James (Medical .^Electrician to the Hospitals), 
Percy House, Bedford Square, London. 

ELECTRICITY. 

This Life Invigorator acts not only on the diseased or relaxed Vessels, but also on the Blood, 
supplying the system with vital ELECTRICITY, thus arousing and equalising the vital 
Forces, and moreover is sanctioned and approved by the highest Medical authorities. Vide 
Guy's Hospital Reports, also * Philosophical Transactions,' ' Lancet/ ' Medical Times,' &c.&c. 

fluse records are a Guarantee to Invalids as to the SAFETY and EFFICACY of 
ELECTRICITY which may be tested GRATIS. 

(Letters receive prompt attention.') 

GENOA. 



HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. 



CEVASCO BROTHERS, Proprietors. 

This Hotel can be strongly recommended : it is in one of the best 
situations in Genoa, and travellers will find there very good rooms, 
moderate charges, cleanness, excellent Table-d'hote, as well as private 
service, with great attention and civility ; the comfort of visitors being 
consulted. 

~t 

English spoken hy tlie Proprietor* 



18(58. 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



37 



SWITZERLAN D. 



FALLS OF TPIE RHINE, near SCHAFPHAUSEN. 

HOTEL SOHWEIZERIIOF 

( / hi 1 h>t * I Webt /•). 
Mr. WEGENSTEIN. Proprietor. 

THISJarge and justly renowned first-class Establishment, most charmingly situated 
ind surrounded by beautiful gardens and shaded walks, 
imanda splendid views of the glaciers and of the lovely scenery around. 
It Is an and comfortable. The SCHWUIZRRHOF will be round to merit its 

high reputation and the continued patro f English viaifc re. Ladii a' SI Ui g-r ■ on, Read- 

me, Billiard, and Smoking is. English Church Service in tin* Hotel. Boa iken by 

the ictek. Croquet-ground. Good fishing. 



I NTERLAKEN. 



HOTEL BELVEDERE. 

KEPT BY 

J. M U L L E R. 



-♦o*- 



r PHIS First-class Establishment has long been renowned as 

one of the most comfortable and best managed Hotels in Switzer- 
land. 

Beautifully situated, with splendid views of the Jungfran. 

Large and small apartments. The principal Europeao newspapers, 

including the ' Times ' and ' I ;iani.' 

Good Table and active Attendants. 



NUREMBERG. 



HOTEL DE BAVIERE 

(BAYERISCIIER HOF). 

THIS old-establ firet-clai ad b Botel, 

centre of the town, < It the ri\ tea of $p and 

igle rooms, all elegently fun new style. It the 

most dist English Divine Service dm eaaon. 1 

newsp niages in the Ih-tel. Omnibus to and from each train. Moderate 

aud fixed prices. 



38 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



May, 



PRIZE-MEDAL, 



SILVER 




MEDAL 




LONDON, 1862. 



ARMS 

of the City of 

FRANKFORT. 




BY 
SPECIAL 

PERMISSION. 



FRIEDRICH BOHLER 

Zeil 54 (next door to the Post-Office). 

MANUFACTORY OF STAGHORN. 

Furniture of every description, as Sofas, Chairs, Tables, &c. 

Chandeliers, Table and Hand Candlesticks, Shooting- tackle, Inkstands, 
Paper-knives, Penholders, Seals, Knives, &c. Riding-whips, Cigar-cases 
and Holders, Pipes, Match-boxes, Porte-monnaies, Card-cases, Thermo- 
meters, &c. 

Goblets, Candle-screens, Figures and Groups of Animals, executed after 
Piiedinger, Mene, and others. 

Brooches, Bracelets, Earrings, Shirt-pins, Studs, Buttons. 

Stag and Deer Heads with Antlers attached to the Skull. 

CARVED WOOD-WORK (Vieuxchene). 

Furniture and Fancy Objects of every description. 

Orders for a Complete Set or for any quantity of Furniture will be 
promptly executed. 

FIXED PRICES. 

The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. M c Cracken, 38, Queen 
Street, Cannon Street West. 



t 



1868. 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



39 



FRANKFORT O. M. 



FRIEMICH BOIILER, 



Zeil, 



1~ £ 

NEXT DOOR TO c 
PKIZE MEDAL, ^"5fe5* LONDON. 1862. 



No. 54, 

THE POST OFFICE. 



*$& 




Pendules (Ornamental Clocks) of every description,Vases, Goblets, Antin 

and Modern Statuettes and Groups of Animals, Inkstands, Paper-weights, 

&c etc., in Bronze, Cast Iron, Galvano-plastic, &c 
Cbown-chandeliebs; Branch, Table, and Hand Candlesticks, in Bronze, 

&c. ; Lamps of every description. 
Vienna Bronze, Marquetry, Leather, and MEERSCHAUM Articles. 
Porcelain and Britannia-metal Goons, Liquenr-chests, &c 
Travelling Dressing-cases and Bags, Bailroad Companions, Picnic-baskets, 

every kind of Leather Goods and Articles of Taste and Dse tor 

Travel 
Fancy Objects of the greater variety and beauty; Albums, Boxes, Fa: 

Smelling-bottles, Opera and Race-Glasses, &c. &C« 
Superior Copies of the Ariadne by l>annccker, and the Amazon by Ki— . 
Genuine Eau de Cologne of Jean Marie Farina, opposite the Jiilichsplatz. 

FIXED PBICI 

The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and K. M^Cracken, 38, Que< u 
Street, Cannon Street West. 



40 MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

LUCERNE. 

HOTEL BEAU EIVAGE, 

Proprietor— Mr. ED. STRUB. 



'THIS newly-established Hotel is fitted up with every comfort, 

and recommends itself by its magnificent view on the Rigi, Pilatus, &c. 
Beautiful Gardens. Pleasure Boats. Private Saloons for ladies and families. 
Smoking-rooms. Baths. Variety of Newspapers. Most scrupulous attendance. 
Moderate prices. Omnibus at the Railway Station and landing-place. 

DRESDEN. 

h6tel~de SAXE. 

'THIS celebrated First-class Hotel, kept by Mrs. DORN and 

A her SONS, has been recently enlarged and embellished, contains 150 Front 
Rooms, with 200 Beds, and is situated in the centre of the town, at the New 
Square, in the immediate vicinity of all the curiosities. Table-d'Hote at one and 
four o'clock, in the most splendid dining-room in the town. Carriages, Baths, 
Reading and Smoking Room. Arrangements for the winter. 

LAUSANNE. 

Hotel Gibbon : Mr. Ritter, Proprietor. 
HPHIS First-class Hotel, highly recommended in every 

respect, is situated in the best part of the town, and commands the finest 
and most extensive views of the Lake, the Alps, and the splendid scenery around 
Lausanne. The terraced garden adjoining the salle-a-manger is unsurpassed by 
any in the neighbourhood, and was the favourite residence of Gibbon, who wrote 
here his History of Rome. From the extensive Garden, which is tastefully laid out 
and attached to the Hotel, the view is most grand and romantic. In fact, this 
house will be found to give very superior accommodation, and to offer to travellers 
a highly desirable place of residence or of temporary sojourn. 

Pension at Reduced Prices during the Winter. 
LAUSANNE. 



Hotel Richemont: kept by Fritz Ritter. 
T^HIS Hotel is of the first order, worthy of the highest recom- 

- 1 - mendations, and in a situation of surpassing beauty. It is surrounded by 
gardens and promenades, and possesses the advantage of having three fronts facing 
the Alps. Reduced prices for protracted stay, and Pension during Winter season. 



1868. 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISKR. 



41 



HEIDELBERG. 



HOTEL DE UEUROPE. 

This now, magnificent^ Sret-rate Establishment, surrounded 
by private and public gardens, with the view of the Castle, 
and the very best situation of Heidelberg, enjoys already 
an European reputation. 

READING ROOM, 

Witli Eii^'lissli mid. Amei-icmi Papers. 



Reduced prices for protracted stay, and for 
the Whiter Season. 

HUEFELI-GUJER, Proprietor. 

NEAR TO LAUSANNE. 

HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. 

SITUATED IN ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SPOTS OF 

THE LAKE OF GENEVA. 

LUCERNE. 

SWAN HOTEL— This Hotel, in the very best situation, 
ei. b character. Mr. H.l.KI.I.I, the Proprietor, has made in the later yenrg 

a great many Improvements, and does his possible to offer to his visfton a comfortable 
borne. An elegant m-w Ladies' Drawing-room, beside* .1 Reading-room and Smoking-room. 
By a week's sojourn, pension arrangements. Cold, Warm, and Shower B itb9. 

FLORENCE. 
BRIZZI AND NICCOLAI'S 

MiiHieal l^^t :il>li^1iiii< k iit. 

PIANOFORTES, OF THE BEST MAKERS, 

K >AI.l. \\|i OH HIRE. 

GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. 
Italian and Foreign IVIusic. 

.Sfutical Tsn'hvrj Lilrrnmj. 



PIAZZA M LDONNA, 
PALAZZO ALDOBR VNMNI. 



BRANCH HOUSE [Music Dki-ot), 
12. VIA CKURETANI. 



42 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May. 

PENZANCE, CORNWALL. 

MOUNT'S BAY HOUSE, 

ESPLANADE, PENZANCE, CORNWALL, 

Has been erected and fitted up expressly as a 
S EAS IDE 

FAMILY HOTEL & FIEST-CLASS LODGING-HOUSE. 

TVTO expense or labour has been spared by the Proprietor. 

-*- * The house is furnished in the most modern style, is well supplied with Hot 
and Cold Baths, and replete with every accommodation suitable for Tourists to 
West Cornwall. 

All the Drawing Rooms command an uninterrupted and unsurpassed view of that 

* Beauteous gem set in the silver sea/ 
St. Michael's Mount, and the whole of the magnificent Bay. * 

Invalids will find in Mount's Bay House the comforts of a home, while the 
beauty and salubrity of the situation,, and its nearness to the charming walks on 
the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful residence. 

Suites of apartments for families of distinction. 

Choice Wines and Ales. Post Horses and Carriages. 
E. LAVIN, Proprietor. 



VICHY-LES-BAINS. 



GRAND HOTEL DU PARC, 

Proprietor, ME. GEBMOT, 
Opposite the Baths and the Park. 

AS in Paris and London, Vichy has its Grand Hotel. The Grand Hotel du Pare 
of Vichy, for comfort, elegance, and convenience, is equal to any of the large 
Hotels of Paris or London. Omnibus and Carriages at the Station. 

Separate Suites of Apartments for Families. 

DIEPPE. 



HOTEL DES BAINS 

(MORGAN), 

FACING the Sea and Baths, of the Highest Class, quiet, 
thoroughly recommendable. A large private House also on the beach for Families. 

MILAN. 

GEAND HOTEL DE MILAN, Grand Corso des Jardins.— An 
excellent and first-class house. Director, Mr. Camille Gavotto. 160 Bedrooms, 
20 Drawing-rooms. Table-d'hoie, 4 francs, wine included. 

English, German, and French spoken. Omnibus at the Station. 






1868. 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



43 



DIEPPE. 



HOTEL ROYAL, 

FACING THE BEACH, 

Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. 



IT IS \ >VK I >F THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS 
1 IX DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the 

i. 

milies and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish- 
ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo- 
, at rery reasonable prices. 
The i -hments, &c., are of the best quality. 

In tact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion 
3sed of it in Murray's and other Guide Books. 

- "Bote and Private Dinners. 



/ 



PASSAGE OF MONT CENIS 



-•<>♦- 



SUSA TO ST. MICHEL 

{and vice versa). 

MR. JOSEPH BORGO. 

Carriages can be obtained for the crossing of Mont Ce'nis, from Susa 
to St Michel, or vice versa, on application to Mr. Joseph Borgo at 

TURIN— Grand Hotel de l'Europe. 

B USA — Hotel de France. 

ST. MICHEL— Railway Station and Hotel de la i'oste. 

Oarri „ r es of all kinds, to hold 2, 4, 5, and 7 persons. 

Travellers will find this the most com >le and hast fatiguing 

way of crossing this mountain, the | B being made in the same 

time as by the CoufilKR, 

%* Travellers will always find at the Station of 8L Michel an Agent of 

Mi;. BoBGO, oh arrival of the train. 



1 1 



44 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May. 



VENICE. 

GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. 

(Formerly REGINA D'INGHILTERRA.) 

ROBERT ETZENSBERGER, Manager. 



THHE largest and finest Hotel in Venice, most conveniently 

situated near the Piazza S. Marco and the principal theatres. 180 Bed- 
rooms, Private Sitting-rooms, Reading-room, with Piano, Billiard-room, and 
JSmoking-room. Baths of every description, great comfort and cleanliness. Service 
on the Swiss system. Charges more moderate than in any other first-class Hotel. 



Arrangements for Pension, 



English spoken by all the Servants. 



MILAN. 



KEPOSITOKY OP PINE AKTS AND ANTIQUITIES. 

€wjlis(j gcgcntg for Special ano feneral Information. 

HOTEL ACCOMMODATION OR PRIVATE APARTMENTS 

Secured for Families. 
Mr. C. MANINI, 10, Corsia del Giardino, Milan. 

LUCHON (BAGNERES DE), PYRENEES. 



Grand Hotel Bonne-Maison et de Londres, 

Mr. VIDAL, Jim., Proprietor. 

Situated opposite the Thermal Establishment or Bath-rooms. This favourite and 
first-rate Hotel affords extensive accommodation of the best description for a large 
number of visitors. It is delightfully situated, and will be found most comfortable 
for Families or Gentlemen. 



18- MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 45 

METZ. 



MOTEL DL L'EUROPE. 

MR. MONIER, PROPRIETOR. 

This first-rate Hotel, much frequented by Families and Gentlemen, situated in the finest 
part of the town, near the Baih i<>n and Promenade, is replete with every comfort: 

apartments are tastefully and elegantly furnished. It is celebrated for its cleanlini 
'. attendance, and reasonable prices. Saloons, Reading, and Refreshment Rooms; Table 
I'Hdte .it l and 5 o'clock; Breakfasts and Dinners at all hours. Advantageous arrangements 
i<- with Famllli 9 during the Winter Season. In front of the Hotel there is a fine extensive 
Len and large court-Yard. Baths and carriages in the Hotel. Omnibuses and carri 
belonging to the Hotel convey passengers to and from the Railway Station. English, French, 
Italian, and Qera i n. Moderate prt 

Ml LAN. 



Hotel Cavour, Place Cavour 9 

Just opposite the Public Gardens. 

KEPT BY J. SUARDI AND CO. 

This first-rat" Hotel is fitted up with every modern appliance, and situated in the finest 
part of Milan. It commands a fine view of the Promenade tear to the Station, the Grand 
Theatre, the National Museum, and the Protestant Church. Excellent Table-d'bftte. Chai 
very moderate. Baths on each floor. A Smoking and a Reading Room supplied with ton 
newspape: 

Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all trains. 

Manager— G. VALLETTA. 

DIJON. 



HOTEL DU I 3 A TZ C 

PROPRIETORS— RIPARD BROTHERS. 

Has been ncvcly Furnished, and entire!)/ Refitted throughout, 

SITUATED IX THE CENTRE OF THE TOWN. 

LARGE AND SMALL APAUTMLNi OABDEB HKHIND THE HOTEL. 

Table-d'Hote at 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. 

CARRIAGES FOR DRIVES IN THE TOWN OR COUNTRY. 
y.fi.—Askfor Uu >us of the Hotel on the arrival of the Train. 

VIENNA. 
GOR^V:VJD HOTEL NATIONAL, 

LE0P0LDSTADT. 

I- • Hundred richly fur: Apartm trying in prico from BO Krentzen 

orins, together with Coffee, Billiard, at; 
Recreation, provided witrj all the best .1 I 

Office, Go vern I -legrapb Office, and Pbotog r aphi i 

a la carte, at fixed pries at all hou gam carriag* adv for tl, 

of travellers, and Omnibuses constantly runn in g- 
largest in ^ th^ most d'-sirable advanU travel 

-llent accommodation, it Ls situated in I int and juri of u. 

lUunngcr* and I*i <)j>. irloi », Jiuth ami Jl ii) ««i . 



46 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

MARSEILLES. 



GRAND HOTEL NOAILLES, 

KUE NOAILLES, CANNEBIEKE PEOLONGEE. 



J^OO 

THIS splendid establishment, the largest, most important, and most recent in 
Marseilles, must be reckoned in the first rank of European Hotels, from its 
admirable position, from its splendid furniture, the number of its bed-rooms and 
sitting-rooms, the excellence of its cuisine, its cleanliness, and strict attention paid 
to travellers. 

It is the only Hotel in the Rue Noailles which possesses a beautiful Garden full 
south, with 12 private Dining-rooms, and a magnificent Salle a. Manger capable 
of accommodating 200 persons ; Drawing-room, Reading-room, Smoking-room, 
&c. Baths in the Hotel, private Carriages, Omnibus of Hotel at the Station, 
Tariff. — Chambers elegantly furnished on all floors, from 3 francs on the entresol ; 
5 francs 1st floor; 4 fanes 2nd floor; 3 francs on the 3rd floor; 2 francs on 4th 
floor. Table-d'hote richly ornamented and served with all the delicacies of the season, 
4 francs; ^ bottle of burgundy, 1 franc. Meals served a la carte either in the bed 
or sitting-rooms at very moderate prices. Dinners at fixed prices at all hours 
from 5 francs. Arrangements can be made to include a good Bed-room Breakfast, 
Dinner at table-d'hote, lights, and service, from 9 francs per day, according to the 
Floor. Omnibus at the Station, 1 franc without luggage, 1 J franc with luggage. 

WILDBAD. 



Hotel Klumpp, formerly Hotel de l'Ours, 

Me. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. 



THIS First-class Hotel, containing 36 Salons and 170 Bed-rooms,'a separate 
Breakfast, a very extensive and elegant Dining-room, new Reading and 
Conversation as well as Smoking Salons, with an artificial Garden over the river 
is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate 
vicinity of the Promenade. 

It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good cuisine and 
cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel. 1 able-d'hote 
at One and Five o'clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte. 

EXCHANGE OFFICE. 

Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of 
Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. 

Omnibus of the Hotel to and from each train. Elegant private carriages 

when required. 



1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISKR. 47 






PARIS. 



-o°* f'.O^ 



HOTEL DES DEUX MONDES 
ET D'ANGLETEEEE, 

8, RUE D'ANTIN, 



A 



Efcar the Xaileriesj Place Yeiiclome, nml tlK* RoulrrnrclN 



This magnificent first-class Hotel, recently constructed and 
elegantly furnished in the newest and most fashionable style, 
surrounded by gardens, justifies the preference accorded to it 
by Families and Gentlemen for the splendour and comfort of 
its Apartments, its excellent Cuisine, and the care and atten- 
tion shown to all who honour the Hotel with their patronage. 

LARGE AND SMALL APARTMENTS, AND SINGLE 
ROOMS, AT MODERATE CHARGES. 

PRIVATE RESTAURANT. 

SPLENDID COFFEE-ROOMS, SALOONS, READING AND 

SMOKING ROOMS. 

LETTER-BOX. INTERPRETERS. 

BOSSES, ELEGANT CARRIAGES, OMNIBUSES 

FOR rilK RAILWAYS. 



4* MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

FREIBURG in Bresgau, Duchy of Baden. 

HOTEL SOMMER, Zahringer Hof, 

Newly built, opposite the Station ; finest view of the Black Forest and the 

Vosges ; most comfortable and best house there. Baths in the Hotel. 

Proprietor, Mr. G. H. SOMMER. 

AMSTERDAM. 

BRACK'S DOELEN HOTEL— Situated in the Centre of the Town, 
and most convenient for Visitors on pleasure or business. It commands a splendid view 
of the Quays, &c. ; and, being conducted on a liberal scale, it is patronised by the highest 
classes of society in Holland. It is also much frequented by English Travellers for the com- 
fort and first-rate accommodation it affords, as well as for the invariable civility shown to 
visitors. Carriages for hire. Table-d'hote at half-past 4, or dinner ^ la carte. 

BRUXELLES. 
THE GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE, Rue Neuvb, 77 and 79, is 

J- admirably situated close to the Boulevards and Theatres, and is the nearest Hotel to the 
Railway Stations. The Hotel is considerably enlarged, and has a new Dining-room which 
will contain 300 persons. Fixed prices: — Plain Breakfast, li franc; Dinner at the Table- 
d'hote, 3£ francs; Bedrooms, from 2 to 4 francs; Service, I franc; Sitting-rooms, 3 to 12 
francs ; Steaks or Cutlets, 1± franc. Travellers must beware of coachmen and conductors of 
omnibuses who endeavour to drive them to some other hotel. 

MENTON. 

HOTEL DE LA MEDITERRANEE, Avenue Victor Emmanuel. 
— This new and first-rate Hotel is situated full South, with view of the Sea. Families 
will find it a most desirable residence for its comfort and cleanliness. "Salon de Conversa- 
tion." Reading- room, with English and Foreign papers. The Servants speak English and 
other languages. N.B. — The English Church is in the garden. 

BIARRITZ. 



■*<>•- 



HOTEL DE FRANCE, 

And the magnificent liaison Garderes. 

Proprietor, Mr. GAHDEKES. 
rpHESE two first -class Establishments are delightfully 

situated on the Beach, in front of the Imperial Chateau, the Baths, and in 
the centre of the Promenades. They are furnished in a most superior style, with 
every comfort and convenience that can be desired by English or American Tra- 
vellers. Moderate charges. The Proprietor speaks English. 

Carriages for Excursions in the Pyrenees and Spain. 

Table-d'hote. ' The Times ' newspaper. 




1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 49 



TUEIN. 

GRAND HOTEMJE L'EUROPE. 

PROPRIETORS— 

MESSRS. BORATTI AND CASALEGGIO. 

Situated, Place du Chateau, opposite the 

King's Palace. 



rPHIS unrivalled and admirably conducted Hotel 
has been entirely refurnished with every comfort, and 
in the very best taste, and tlrus peculiarly recommends itself 
to the notice of English travellers. 

EXCELLENT TABLE-D'HOTE at 5i o'clock. 

Without Wine, 4 fr. ; Dinner in Apartments, 6 fir, ; Breakfast, 
with Tea or Coifee and Eggs, 2 fr. 



REDUCED TERMS FOR A LENGTHENED STAY. 

Interpreters speaking all the European Languages, 

CHARGES MODERATE. 



THE TI3IES NEWSPAPER. 



An Omnibus from the Hotel will be found at every 

Train. 



X.B. — A ! out in this Hotel vrhkb will 

render it one of the in In . noble marble 

staircase, a pr □ all r len door to grand 

entrance to deaden the sound in the new ca lie to. 

E 



50 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



May, 




■""»3R7 



TINENF/t 



DORRELL & SON'S 
PASSPORT AGENCY, 

15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. 

Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. 

French and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Language. 



British Subjects visit 
ing the Continent will 
save trouble and expense 
by obtaining their Pass- 
ports through the above 
Agency. No personal 
attendance is required, 
and country residents 
may have their Pass- 
ports forwarded through 
the post. A 'Passport 
Prospectus,' containing 
every particular in de 




Fee, Obtaining Passport, is. ; Visas, is. each. Cases, is. 



tail, by post, on applica- 
tion. 

Passports Mounted, 
and enclosed in Cases, 
with the name of the 
bearer impressed in gold 
on the outside ; thus af- 
fording security against 
injury or loss, and pre- 
venting delay in the 
frequent examination of 
the Passport when tra- 
velling. 
6d. to bs. each. 



THE LATEST EDITIONS^ OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. 

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THE ATHEN-aEUM. 



EVERY SATURDAY, OF ANY BOOKSELLER OR NEWS AGENT, 
PRICE THREEPENCE. 

Each Half- Yearly Volume complete in itself, with Title-Page and Index, 

THE ATHEN^UM 

JOURNAL OF ENGLISH AND FOREIGN LITERATURE, 
SCIENCE, AND THE FINE ARTS. 

Contains : — Reviews of every important New Book — Reports of the Learned 
Societies — Authentic Accounts of Scientific Voyages and Expeditions — 
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— Criticisms on Art, Music, and Drama — Biographical Notices of dis- 
tinguished Men — Original Papers and Poems — Weekly Gossip. 

THE ATHENiETJM is so conducted that the reader, however distant, is, in 
respect to Literature, Science, and Art, on an equality in point of information with 
the best-informed circles of the Metropolis. 

Subscription for Twelve Months, 13s.; Six Months, 6s. 6d. If required to be 
sent by Post, the Postage extra. 



Office for Advertisements— 
20, WELLINGTON STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 



■,.-=«, 



1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51 

COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS. 
THE ORIGINAL AGENCY, 

ESTABLISHED 1832. 
440, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 

Patronized by the Nobility and General Travelling Public. 



GENTLEMEN and Families going abroad are respectfully informed that Couriers 
and Travell: vants for all Countries and of the highest character and 

experience may as heretofore always be engaged at the above Agency, where none 
are recommended again who have not given entire satisfaction to their previous 
employers, thus ensuring to parties about to travel who may honour the agency 
with their patronage, the greatest amount of usefulness, civility, and respect from 
those whom they may employ through it. 



MURRAY'S AND ALL THE OTHER GUIDES, 

MAPS, DICTIONARIES, DIALOGUES, GRAMMARS, fee., 

For All Countries. 

PORTMANTEAUX, HAT-CASES, and all sorts of TRAVELLING BA< 
And all the Requisites for Travellers, are kept on sale at 

LEE & CARTER'S 
ORIGINAL GUIDE AND TRAVELLERS' DEPOT, 

440, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 

{nearly opposite the Charin : r 'ay)> 

WHERE ALL INFORMATION ABOUT PASSPORTS, ROUTES ETC., 

CAN ALWAYS BE OBTAINED. 






52 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 



LUCERNE. 



-+&+• 



HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. 

HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors. 

THE LARGEST HOTEL IN SWITZERLAND. 

Best Situation on the Quay, with splendid view of the cele- 
brated panorama of the Lake and Mountains. 

r FHE high reputation which this establishment enjoys among 

J- Travellers, and especially English and American families, is the best and 
strongest assurance of its superior arrangement and comfort. Its new immense 
Dining-Room, with adjoining Garden, Salon, and large Parlour, attract the attention 
of every Visitor. 

Reduced Prices (Pension) are made for longer visits in the early and later 
parts of the Season. 

HOMBOURG. 

HOTEL VICTOEIA, close to the Springs and the Kursaal, is one of 
the finest and best situated Hotels. The Proprietor, M. GUSTAVE WEIGAND, who has been for 
many years in first-class Hotels in London, offers to English travellers a good house, with every comfort. 
Excellent Table-d'hote and good Wines, at moderate charges. Sponge Baths. N.B. — All kinds of Wines 
are exported to any part of England, particularly his excellent Sparkling Wines (nice and dry, which are 
expressly prepared for England), called Victoria Sparkling Moselle and Hock. 



GENEVA, 



M 



- 



J/. 



HOTEL IDE LA OOXJROTVTSTE. 

Proprietor, C. ALDINGEK. 
'THIS FIKST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT, just newly fur- 

J- nished and fitted up throughout, offers Travellers a most extensive view of 
the Lake of Geneva, Mont Blanc, &c, from its position at the head of the magni- 
ficent new bridge. 

Every attention paid to the comfort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen. 
Active attendance, good cuisine and cellar. Tables-d'Hote at 1, 5, and 7 o'clock. 
English and American newspapers. The Omnibus of the Hotel meets every Train. 

ATHENS. 

GRAND HOTEL DES ETEANGERS, 

Near the Koyal Palace, 

In the most delightful situation, opposite the Royal Gardens, near the Palace. The best Hotel 
in Athens. Moderate prices ; good attendance. All languages spoken. Best guide, G. Pomoui. 



J/ 






1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 53 

ZURICH, 

HOTEL BELLEVUE AU LAC. 

Proprietor: C. GUYER. 

THIS splendid ami admirably conducted establishment, situ- 
ated on the Bhore of the Lake, commands, by its unsurpassed position, the bat view of 

the Lake, Alps, and Glaciers, ami oiTVrs, by its superior internal arrangements, the comforts 
of Private Apartments and Public Parlours, with careful, civil, and qniel attendants— all 

desirable attractions to travellers as a place of residence or of temporary sojourn. 

Pi ntiim at reduced J Olid arrau<j> merUt ?nadc for families from October to July. 

JSotivv. — 12,3 A pajrfmenti facing the I^ake. 

bale! 



HOTEL DES TROIS ROIS. 

Proprietor, Mr. wald. 

1THIS ancient and justly-renowned first-class Establishment 
is situated <>n the Rhine, and commands an extensive view of the JORA, the 
BLACK Fores v. and the Vos^.es, so that the eye may with one glance take a peep 
into Switzerland, Germ any, and France. The House is comfortable in every 
ct. READING and Smoking Rooms newly arranged. WARM BATH8. Mr. 
WALD* does all in his power to render the sojourn at his house as pleasant as possible. 
The Omnibu>es of the Hotel are always in attendance at the Railway Stations. 



LUGANO, SWITZERLAND 



-*c-«- 



HOTEL ET BELVEDERE DU PARC. 

Kept bt a. BEHA. 

THIS first-class HOTEL contains 150 81ee]#ng-Boomfl and 
intly furnished ; "S - de reunion ; an English chapel : and 
one of thi tiful Gardens in the country. The Hotel is very bly 

I for the 1 - 09. During the winter the Hall and landii warn 

improvements have been d rince last . by the addition of new Public 
Rooms, and numerous Apartments for Kamili r comfort desirable, 

BADEN-BADEN. 
VICTORIA MOTET.. 

Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GROSHOLZ. 

TUTS lb one of the fines; boili and besl famished Pirst-cla 
on ti ennena il and Theatre ; it 

commands the most charming views 11 ■■ • ■ i to b 

Hotels in Germany. od Wi' prompt attendance 

and great civility. Prices v» glish and other Journals. 



54 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



May, 



I ES BAD E N. 



FOUR SEASONS HOTEL & BATHS. 

PBOPBIETOB, BE. ZAIS. 



TPHIS First-Class Establishment, equal to any on the 

-*■ Rhine, is in the best and most delightful situation in the Great Square, 
opposite the Kursaal, the Theatre, the Promenades; close to the Boiling 
Spring; and the new English Chapel. 

This Hotel is the largest in the place, containing a great choice of 

SPLENDID AND COMFOETABLE APAETMENTS, 

for Families and Single Travellers ; exquisite Cuisine and first-class Wines, 
combined with attentive service and moderate charges. 



TABLE D'HOTE at 1 and 5 p.m., and PEIVATE DIOTEES. 



Numerous comfortable Bathing Cabinets, supplied with Hot, Mineral, 

and Sweet Waters. 



THE BEST BOOK THE BEST GIFT. 

cx£«tSoo— -^ 

Two vols., crown 8vo., 30s. cloth; 52s. 6d. calf; 63s. morocco. 

THE ILLUSTRATED FAMILY TESTAMENT. 

Edited, with a short practical Commentary, by Archdeacon Chur- 
ton, M.A., and Eev. W. Basil Jones, M.A. With 100 authentic 
Illustrations and Eight Panoramic Views of Places mentioned in 
the Sacred Text. 



' The Commmentary is not less 
marked by accuracy and sound learning 
than by judgment, candour, and piety. 
We highly commend it.' — Guardian. 

i The idea of illustrating the Bible 
by really faithful representations of the 
places spoken of is a peculiarly happy 
one, for it is in fact a kind of com- 
mentary. The book is a work of very 
great elegance and sound scholarship. 



Of the illustrations it would be im- 
possible to speak in terms of praise 
sufficiently high.' — Union Review. 

1 The names of Archdeacon Churton 
and Prebendary Jones will form an 
abundant guarantee of the learning and 
reverence brought to bear on the plain 
explanatory comments by which the text 
is accompanied/ — John Bull. 



JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMAELE STEEET. 



18'" MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVF.RTISKl:. 



BRUSSELS. 



«*- 



HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 

Proprietor, Mr. EDWARD DREMEL. 

'TUTS magnificent Hotel, in offering to tho Visitor every 
kind of comfort and accommodation, has the great advantage of 
situated adjoining 

THE PALACE OF THE KING, 

and facing 
THE PLACE ROYALE AND THE PARK. 

It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as single 
Booms. 

Tabled- Hute, ricJdy served. Choice Wines. 
SMOKING ROOM. 

READING IlOOlf, Willi the brwt Belgian, BagHsfc, French, 

i 

German, ami American Daily Papers and Periodical*. 

Terraces, with Splendid View overlooking the Park. 
ARBAKOl S MADE FOR THE WINT] 



Mr. Dremkl, the new Proprietor of this Hotel, hopes to justify 
oee placed in him, 1 irefally arrang prompt and 

civil attendance, combined with moderate C 9. 



56 



MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 



May, 1868. 



THE ORIGINAL GUIDE AND TRAVELLERS' DEPOT, 

passport anft €anmxn f ^gntt;, 

NEAKLY OPPOSITE THE CHARING CROSS RAILWAY. 

ESTABLISHED 1832. 




LEE'S POLYGLOT 

WASHING 

BOOKS 

(To save the trouble 

of translating 

Washing Bills) 

For Ladies or 
Gentlemen, 

IN 

English & French. 

English & German. 

English & Italian. 

English & Spanish. 

English & Portuguese. 




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PASSPORTS 

Procured, mounted on linen, and inserted in 
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at the shortest notice, and forwarded by Post. 

Visas obtained and information given. 



The latest editions of Murray's Handbooks 
kept in the original binding, and in limp leather, 
more convenient for the pocket, at 2s. a volume 
extra. 

Trustworthy Couriers 'and Travelling Ser- 
vants can be engaged at 

LEE & CARTER' S, 

440, WEST STRAND, W.O., 

TWO DOORS WEST OF THE LOWTHER ARCADE, 

Where an extensive collection of 

GUIDES, HANDBOOKS, MAPS, 

GRAMMARS, INTERPRETERS, 
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In most of the Continental Languages, and every 
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gdr- Cushions, pnssing & Minting Caaw, 

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J . g . 



MOORE'S 
GERMAN- 
INTERPRETER. 

With the exact 

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AND 



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MAPS 

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SWITZERLAND. 



STUDER'S 
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MAYR'S 
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N 









> 



